Polk's Indianapolis (Marion County, Ind.) city directory, 1886, Part 118

Author: R.L. Polk & Co
Publication date: 1886
Publisher: Indianapolis : R.L. Polk & Co.
Number of Pages: 896

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It is the finest and purest stream of water in the world, the pride of the people who reside on its banks, and the admiration of tourists. These steamers stop on the river at Marine City and St. Clair on the up trip only. Port Huron is an important distributing point for the company's business to and from upper ports and points in the interior of Canada and Michigan. From Port Huron to the lake the river narrows, and the large volume of water poured into Lake Erie, causes a strong, rapid current. Passengers who are destined for Goderich and the Manitoba Country leave us here and cross the river to take the Sarnia line of steamers. The steamers do not stop at Fort Gratiot, as passengers who have come from Montreal and other points in Canada are taken by the Grand Trunk railway to Port Huron only a mile below. The steamers City of Mackinac and City of Alpena leave Port Huron going north Wednesday and Friday evenings at 16.30 o'clock, and Tuesday and Sunday mornings at 7.00 o'clock.

There has been so much of interest to take the attention for the past six hours that the trip through the lake is a pleasant relief. From this out all points of interest are seen on the port side, the Canadian shore being far away. We get outside, and from "abreast" of Fort Gratiot light the steamer is put on her course for 33 hours, which brings us to within 5 miles of Sand Beach, when we " haul in " for the harbor of refuge. The captain, who likes " lots of sea room," keeps well out into the lake. These large, iron steamers are not obliged to conform to the old adage, "Small boats must keep near the shore."

A short stay at this port, and our steamer resumes her course. Five minutes takes us outside the breakwater, and we head for Point Au Barques light, which is reached in one hour. This point is at the entrance to Saginaw Bay, which is crossed in two and one-half hours, a distance of 45 miles. This is the only stretch where land is lost sight of.

After passing this light, two trails of black smoke may be observed. on the horizon. It comes from a sister steamer, which is due to pass at this half-way place. Officers and passengers are interested, and as the steamers pass, exchange a salute of whistles, shouts and waving of handkerchiefs. It is only for an instant, both are running at high speed, and fre soon far apart. Our steamer's speed has brought into view the distant smoke of another steamer, going our way; she left Detroit twelve or fourteen hours ahead of us. We are fast overhauling her, and passengers become interested as they notice that great clouds of black moke are thrown out more frequently from her one smoke-stack, in the vain effort to keep Away from us. The fact is, the Detroit and Cleveland Steam Navigation Company's steamers are expected to pass everything they meet without extra effort.

"See! we are gain ng on her!" "Yes, we will pass her within fifteen minutes."

" How fast are we going?" "Sixteen or seventeen miles an hour."

" How fast are they?" "Ten or twelve miles an hour. Some are not over eight."

"Do they carry passengers?" "A few. They run into small ports that this line doesn't touch, and because it was thought, naturally, that leaving twelve hours earlier, they

The Detroit & Cleveland Steam Navigation Co.'s Steamers Every Week Day

would arrive at their destination as much in advance, but we will get through first, never- theless, and this steamer on her return trip, will meet her again somewhere out in the lake, still working her way up slowly."

"Why, our steamer must get back to Detroit again a long way ahead!" "Oh, yes, she'll make two round trips while the other makes one. In the fall when the weather is rough, the steamers of this line run in and out of their ports about on time, leaving other steamers tied up to a wharf for favorable weather, while they are making one or two round trips."

"Then passengers miss it by taking any but this line?" "It makes no difference how anxious you are to get through, it's better to wait for the City of Mackinac or City of Alpena. You'll arrive at Mackinac Island ahead, every time, and even at Alpena as soon. When the Detroit and Cleveland Steam Navigation Company first established their line to Mackinac three years ago, with their elegant steamer City of Alpena (then called City of Cleveland) it was regarded as an experiment only, and short lived; the publlc were consequently slow in giving their hearty support to so much enterprise. The Company demonstrated their own confidence, however, by contracting for still another iron steamer of equal elegance, the City of Mackinac, which was put into commission the following season. These two beautiful steamers have now become household words, not only among the people along their route, but among the tourist public from distant parts, until their fame has reached all portions of our country and Canada, and the Company's methods and business principles have built up an important traffic in a wonderfully short time. But here we go past our friend, like an arrow shot from a bow, the craft soon becomes a mere speck, and our steamer is suddenly headed towards the shore for Oscoda. The arrivals of the steamers of this line are always an attraction for the people along the shore. Leaving the wharf again the steamer backs out for a quarter of a mile into the lake. The wheelsman throws his wheel over hard-a-port, and we run two miles straight out from the wharf in order to clear Miller's point, and a series of shoals extending from the main land, then throwing the wheel a-starboard, head for Harrisville. When directly opposite, she is headed at right angles from her course for the wharf. But few lake ports have a harbor, and are obliged to build piers out into the open lake. Leaving the wharf again, we pass Sturgeon Point Light, then South Point, and when abreast of Thunder Bay river, shift the course a few points, and run into the river for Alpena.

How long will it take to reach the wharf? We can give no time as it depends altogether on the condition of things. The lumber kings may have been running logs down to their mills and choked it up, and some little time may be lost finding a tug to pull us in. While the city government clears up and improves the highways through town, their single, narrow highway of water is neglected, and the steam craft who serve them, unjustly suffer a heavy expense for tugs, broken wheels and loss of time.

There is a steamer close by us, she is lying still as though waiting for something. What does it mean? It is simply one of those cases where there is but little system used in the navigation of vessels, and although you can see by the moonlight that there is a broad expanse of water in the bay, still the safe channel is somewhat narrow, and unless steamers are careful to run in by a proper course, there is a chance of getting aground. Our friend is not sure of his bearings, and is waiting to follow us in, taking advantage of our courses. You may notice this lack of confidence frequently. Four officers are constantly watching the course of our steamer, and any variation would receive their prompt attention. This river is an important factor in the prosperity of Alpena. Approaching it by water the view is one which, though it may disappoint the searcher for the picturesque, means to the business man energy, bustling life, and commercial prosperity. The singing saws, rattling trucks, noisy mill engines, and numberless steam and sailing vessels passing in and out cannot but give to the practical observer the impression of a flourishing town; and indeed a happier combination of fertile resources and undaunted energy than is centered in this pleasant little city of the lakes would be hard to find. Lake captains say that during heavy fogs in the day time, the song of the saws, unlike the mythical siren lays that lured sailors to destruction, often helps them to find the entrance. While our steamer is discharging freight it will be interesting to take a stroll through the town, but keep watch of the whistle which is sounded for her departure.

Between Detroit and Cleveland. Four times each week between Detroit and Mackinac.

Our company has been considerably reduced, and as preparations are going on for leaving port again, we find a new order of things. With care the steamer worked her way Into the river, but it is another thing to get her out again. Between the floating logs and the crowded river, which is too narrow to admit of winding around, it becomes necessary to employ a tug, which takes our line and tows us out stern first, until clear of the piers, and room enough is found to handle the steamer. Our course lies well out into the lake, with the shore in sight all the way, and is a most interesting trip. On parting with the tug, our steamer keeps the shore aboard three miles away, giving the reefs of North Point, which extend two miles from land about the same distance. We round Thunder Bay Island Light as we come abreast of it, giving a wide berth to the shoals at the foot of the island, then come abreast of the light a second time, and resume our course northward. Many a craft has come to grief at this point, from over anxiety to get on her course. Life saving stations are located near this light, also at Middle Island and Forty Mile Point, in Hammond's Bay, at the north, and at Sturgeon Point, Ottawa Point, Port Austin and Point Aux Barques on the south.

Off our course, six miles to the north, when abreast of Middle Island, lies False Presque Isle, which has a fine lake. The bold, abrupt shore of Presque Isle admits of running close in, and affords a fine view We make a short call at Rogers City. Spectacle Reef Light, seen in the distance, is most romantically located. Out by itself on a small flat rock, ten miles from shore, this light stands one hundred feet above the waters of the lake.

Suddenly the order comes "Starboard," and as the steamer's bow gradually turns towards the shore, Cheboygan river unexpectedly opens up to view, and we plow our way among lumber piles and floating logs, which so block the harbor at times that the services of another tug is required to take us in and out. Propellers, with their wheels less exposed, make things lively, and take out logs, boom and all into the lake. Here is an instance where it would seem that "might makes right," the pleasure of the lumber kings being more potent at Cheboygan than the local government, which they are largely instrumental in creating. Were a lot of farm wagons to block their street, the owners would soon be brought to account from these same obstructionists, but the shipping, the best element of their prosperity, must bear these indignities without redress. On arriving at the wharf, many passengers for Petoskey leave us and take the pleasant inland route through the crooked lakes and rivers. It is a novel trip, without it those who make their first visit to Mackinac fall short of a complete tour, and in connection with the Detroit and Cleveland Steam Navigation Company, it forms the only attractive and comfortable route from the east and south to this paradise for rest and recreation. Some make their first visit to Mackinac and take the inland route from there, or go down by rail at their leisure.

As the whistle sounds the warning of departure, stragglers hasten on board, the gang plank is hauled in, and the steamer, tied to the wharf by a stern line, and laboring hard with the engine, slowly swings round in the narrow river, and works her way into the lake, or is towed out to the dummy light. Rounding this, we head for Mackinac Island, which looms up sixteen miles away. Its magnetic influence seems to be felt even at this distance. There is much to interest in this short run. A landscape of unrivaled beauty is spread out before us. On the port bow is seen Mackinac City, and farther on to the northwest looms up on the horizon the island of St. Helena

The many trails of smoke in the distance are from steamers passing to and from Lake Michigan. Directly ahead are Rabbit's Back and the highlands of St. Ignace, at whose feet lies the town, apparently walled in by the Martel iron furnace on the left and ore docks on the right. On the starboard bow we see what seems to be one long, continuous stretch of shore, but which breaks away as we approach, and proves to be Bois Blanc, (Bob-low) Round and Mackinac Islands. In just fifty minutes from the Dummy, the captain is on a sharp look-out for the glimpse of Bois Blanc Light, (or its flash by night) which, being on the farther side of the island, can only be seen for a moment as we pass the intervening water to Round Island. On its reappearance on the other side of Round Island, the course is changed, and Mackinac Island and village are distinctly seen, another change, and the steamer, with a sudden turn swings quickly and gracefully into the crescent bay, upon whose shores once dwelt the red-skinned Ottawa, and about whose island home, rising three hundred feet above the clear, blue waters, still cluster the mystic halo of song, romance and legend.

The first-class service of the Detroit and Cleveland Steam Navigation Company's

MARQUETTE GRAND ISL

O AU TRAIN

SUGART

MCMILLAN

ST. JOSEPH I

NORTH PASS

PALMS

MORAN

DRUMMUND D.

MANISTIQUE

ST.IGNACE

MACKINAC ISL

STRAITS OF MACKINAC

BOIS BLANC Lo

HURON

D.& C.S.N.CO'S LINE

DOUGLASL

MULLET LAKE

BLACK LAKE

MULLET LAKE HOTEL

ODEN

CROOKED LAKE

PETOSKEY

VAN SEYEN-CO SCO

CHARLEVOIX

Bird's Eye View of the Straits of Mackinac, showing the Inland route, Mackinac to Petoskey, and Sault Ste. Marie.

Steamers is unparalleled for Luxury, Comfort and Economy.

NEWBERRY

SAULT STE.MARIE

MUNISING

MUDLAKE

MILLE COQUINS

LES CHENAUX IS.

DETOURPAS

LAKE

MACKINAW CITY

CHEBOYGAN

BEAVERISL.

BURT LAKE

LAKE MICHIGAN

LAKE SUPERIOR

PICTURED ROCKS

WHITE FISH BAY " ST.MARY'S RIVER

ACKINAC ISLAND, the rock girt, fairy isle, sitting like an emerald gem in the clear, pellucid wave, rises gradually and majestically from the crystal waters, which cover but cannot conceal the glistening, white pebbly depths beneath. It is the central point of the three great lakes. It knows no land breeze, VANLI-CO. STARR'S ROUTE hence the winds are always cool and refreshing, and seem incessantly tossing balls at each other. They no sooner cease blowing from Lake Michigan than they come from Lake Huron, and Lake Superior is never behind in the contest. Mackinac Island con- tains two thousand two hundred and twenty-one acres, of which the national park comprises eight hundred and twenty- one, and the military reservation one hundred and three acres. The natural scenery is unsurpassed. Nature seems to have exhausted herself in the manifold objects of interest which meet the eye in every direction. The lover of Mother Earth will hardly grow weary of wandering through its shaded glens, and climbing over its rugged rocks, each day bringing to light some new object of beauty and interest. Longfellow, in his poem of " Hiawatha " has put into English verse some of its wild Indian legends, which people every rock and glen with spectral habitants. Hiawatha is the Mena-bosho of the Algonquins, and the Island of Mackinac was considered his birthplace.

If the poetic muses are ever to have a new Parnassus in America, they should certainly fix on Mackinac Island. Hygeia, too, should place her temple here, for it is one of the purest, dryest, clearest and most healthiui of atmospheres. The Island shows unmista kable evidence of the water having once been two hundred and fifty feet above its present line. It is a mooted question whether the lake has fallen from its original level, or the island has, from some cause, been lifted up. Springs of water, clear and cold, may be found at the base of the high cliffs, and scattered through other localities.

Mackinac village is a perfect curiosity in itself. Situated at the foot of the bluff, upon the brow of which stands the fort, it extends for a distance of a mile along the beach. The buildings are a mixture of the modern and antique, some of which were brought from Old Mackinaw when the town and fort were removed from that point after the massacre of June 4, 1763. Many of the fences are of the original palisade style.

Schoolcraft, who visited it in 1820, says: "Nothing can exceed the beauty of this island." It is a mass of calcareous rock, rising from the bed of Lake Huron, and reaching a height of more than three hundred feet above the water. Some of its cliffs shoot up per- pendicularly, and tower in pinnacles like half ruined gothic steeples. It is cavernous in some places, and in these caverns the ancient Indians were wont to place their dead. Por- tions of the beach are level, and well adapted to landing from boats. The harbor at the south end is a little gem. In it, vessels can anchor and be sure of a holding, and around it, the little old fashioned French town nestles in primitive style, while above frowns the fort, its white walls gleaming in the sun. The whole area of the island is one labyrinth of curious glens and valleys. Old fields appear in spots which were formerly cultivated by Indians. In some of them are circles of gathered stones, as if the Druids themselves had dwelt there. The soil, though rough, is fertile. The Island was formerly covered with a dense growth of rock maple, oak, iron wood, etc., and there are still parts of this ancient forest left, but all the southern limits exhibit a young growth. There are walks and winding paths of the most romantic character among its hills and precipices. From the eminences overlooking the lake can be seen magnificent views of almost illimitable extent.

You will make no mistake if you go a little out of your way

The late Dr. Drake says: "The island is the last, and, of the whole, the most impor- tant summer resort to which we can direct the attention of the infirm or the fashionable. The living streams of pure water, cooled down to the temperature of 44°, gush from the lime rock precipices, and an atmosphere never sultry or malarious, supersedes all necessity for nauseating iron, sulphur and epsom salts. As a health resort it is unsurpassed. Its cool air and pure water are just what are needed to bring back the glow of health to the faded cheek, and send the warm currents of life dancing through the system with youthful vigor." Its natural beauties and historic associations, together with the innumerable lesser attrac- tions which cluster round about, serve to furnish visitors with so much entertainment and variety for either the robust or weakly ones, that ennui which eventually is felt at most resorts need not be experienced here. In Mackinac you eat with a new relish, and sleep like a child. You row, or ramble, scarcely able to keep your buoyancy within bounds. Dr. Mills, once post surgeon at Mackinac, says: "No better place can be found for sickly girls and puny boys, for worn out men and women, whether from overworked brain or muscle, or for those inclined to hypochondria. A change from the tiresome sameness of home scenes cannot fail to benefit all. From the hour of entering Lake Huron, your feelings will indicate that you have passed beyond the reign of miasma, fever, dyspepsia, blue devils and duns, and you look back upon the whole of them with gay indifference, or a feeling of good- natured contempt, as every turn of the steamer's wheel carries you farther into the temperate and genial, climate of the lakes, and away from your perplexities. Under these influences real diseases may abate; and the imaginary ones be forgotten. In the celebrated white fish (classical name, coregonus albus, signifying food of the nymphs), is found a native whose acquaintance is liable to but one objection, that of destroying the taste for any other fish, and which, with the trout and potatoes of the island render all foreign delicacies superfluous. We would caution the gourmand, however, against an excessive use of trout, which are said to produce drowsiness, for those who visit Mackinac should be wide awake, lest some scene of interest should pass unobserved.

Besides the agreeable change of climate on reaching Mackinac, there is the new sensation to one who has not before enjoyed the novelty of an insular life, of having found an island retreat. To his jaded sensibilities all around him is fresh, a feeling of security comes over him, and when, from the rocky battlements of the fort, he looks down on the surrounding waters, they seem a bulwark of defense against the host of annoyances from which he has sought a refuge. Thus the curative state of mind begins to act on the body from the first moment, and this salutary mental excitement will not soon die away, for the historic associations, not less than the surrounding scenery, are well fitted to maintain it, and to make the invalid forget his ailments. Dr. Mann says, "A few whiffs of the air would make your lungs give a hygienic laugh. This air must have been left clear out of Eden, and did not get cursed. Children are crazy with animal spirits, and eat in such a way as to demonstrate the paradox that the quantity contained may be greater than the container." These extracts will no doubt meet with a hearty response from thousands who have visited Mackinac.

At watering-places generally, all the features of the surrounding scenery are soon familiarized to the eye, which then merely wanders over the commingled throngs of coquettes, dandies, dancers and idlers, and soon returns to inspect the real or fancied in- firmities of its possessor. A visit to Mackinac reverses all this. The attractions of the sur- rounding region are of a different and more wholesome kind, and draw to them those who seek health and recreation, and offer a delightful hot weather asylum to all who need to escape from crowded cities or a sultry climate. Besides this, the voyage imparts a pleasing excitement to the faculty of observation, curiosity is stirred up to the highest pitch, and pleasantly gratified by the hourly unfolding of fresh scenes of nature, some new blending of land and water, a group of islands different from the last, or a shifting series of painted clouds seen in the kaleidoscope of heaven afford constant variety, while the frequent trips of the Detroit and Cleveland Steam Navigation Company's steamers enable you to return as soon as desired.

Constance Fennimore Woolson knew the charm of the place when she made it the scene of so many romances, among them being the novel "Anne," and the short sketches, " Flower of the Snows," "The Old Agency," "Jeannette," and " Fairy Island."

To reach the Detroit & Cleveland Steam Navigation Co.'s Steamers.

AULT ST. MARIE, via Petoskey and . Mackinac Island. One of the grandest trips in the world. How B. and W. spent a week. The beautiful steamer "City of Mackinac " left Detroit at 22 o'clock Saturday night, landing us in Cheboygan Monday morning, at 5 o'clock. A stroll through the town gave an appetite for breakfast, which we obtained at the hotel near by. The steamer " Mary" came in from Mackinac Island, and left the adjoining wharf, at 9 o'clock for a trip to Petoskey, by the wonderfully novel and attractive Inland Route, through crooked rivers and

beautiful lakes. Our baggage was transferred to this landing without expense, and we boarded the little steamer, which headed up the Cheboygan, picking her way through logs, which generally obstruct the river. An industry peculiar to northern Michigan was indicated by busy sawmills; and though piles of lumber obstructed our view, we caught glimpses of our winding course, in time to save a dawning conviction that the trip must end there. A sharp angle brought to view a lock, the rear gate of which was closed. On our entering, the water from the river, ten feet above, was gradually let in from the bottom, and our craft lifted to the upper level.

Three miles above this point, Black river empties into the Cheboygan, and is the outlet of Black lake, which is twelve miles from the junction of the two rivers, and covers an area of six by four miles. Rapids, within a few miles of the lake, make further navigation by steamer impossible. A panorama of beautiful landscape is opened as we proceed, and Mullet lake, with its placid waters, wooded shores and attractive spots for camping was reached before noon. The lake is six miles above Cheboygan, and is a beautiful body of water, twelve miles long, and from five to eight wide. It is full of fish, and its borders abound in game. Into it empty Pigeon, Indian and Sturgeon rivers. On the right, nearly across the lake, is Toppinabee. The Northern Hay Fever Association, Pike's Hotel, Railway station, telegraph office and stores are located here. Three miles farther on is the Mullet Lake House, where we stopped for dinner. This fine summer hotel, which is situated on a beautiful spot overlooking the lake, cost $50,000, has seventy-five large, airy rooms, ele- gantly furnished, and is especially attractive for families, being a paradise for children. The house opens June 20.

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Polk's Indianapolis (Marion County, Ind.) city directory, 1886, Part 118

Author: R.L. Polk & Co Publication date: 1886 Publisher: Indianapolis : R.L. Polk & Co. Number of Pages: 896

Author: R.L. Polk & Co
Publication date: 1886
Publisher: Indianapolis : R.L. Polk & Co.
Number of Pages: 896