USA > Massachusetts > Chronicles of the first planters of the colony of Massachusetts Bay, 1623-1636 > Part 29
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The Bay of Massachusetts lieth under the degree of forty-two and forty-three, bearing south-west from the Land's End of England ; at the bottom whereof are situated most of the English plantations. This Bay is both safe, spacious, and deep, free from such cockling seas as run upon the coast of Ireland and in the channels of England. There be no stiff running currents, or rocks, shelves, bars, quicksands. The mariners having sailed two or three leagues towards the bottom, may behold the two Capes em- bracing their welcome ships in their arms, which thrust themselves out into the sea in form of a half- moon, the surrounding shore being high, and show- ing many white cliffs,2 in a most pleasant prospect, with divers places of low land, out of which divers rivers vent themselves into the ocean, with many openings, where is good harbouring for ships of any
1 See pages 19 and 371.
2 The sand hills, at the extrem-
ity of Cape Cod, are of a dazzling white.
393
BOSTON HARBOUR.
burthen. So that if an unexpected storm or cross CHAP. wind should bar the mariner from recovering his de- XX. -
sired port, he may reach other harbours, as Plim- 1633. mouth, Cape Ann, Salem, Marvill Head ; all which afford good ground for anchorage, being likewise land-locked from wind and seas.
The chief and usual harbour is the still Bay of Massachusetts,1 which is close aboard the Planta- tions ; in which most of our ships come to anchor, being the nearest their mart, and usual place of land- ing of passengers. It is a safe and pleasant harbour within, having but one common and safe entrance,2 and that not very broad, there scarce being room for three ships to come in, board and board, at a time ; but being once within, there is room for the anchor- age of five hundred ships. This harbour is made by a great company of islands,3 whose high cliffs shoulder out the boisterous seas ; yet may easily deceive any unskilful pilot, presenting many fair openings and broad sounds,4 which afford too shallow waters for any ships, though navigable for boats and small pin- naces.
The entrance into the great haven is called Nan- tascot ;5 which is two leagues from Boston. This place of itself is a very good haven ; where ships
1 Boston harbour, included be- tween George's and Lovell's isl- tween Nahant and Point Alderton. ands.
Twice afterwards he calls it "the still bay," to distinguish it from the outer bay, included between Cape Ann and Cape Cod.
2 The ship channel, or main en- trance into Boston harbour, com- monly called the Light House Chan- nel, lies between Boston Light on the north side and Point Alderton on the south, and then passes be-
3 See a list of these islands, some forty or more, in Mass. Hist. Coll. iii. 295, and in Snow's History of Boston, p. 114.
4 The northern entrance to Bos- ton harbour is called Broad Sound. It is not considered a proper channel for large vessels, though they some- times pass through it.
5 See note 3 on page 19.
1
394
WEYMOUTH.
1633.
CHAP. commonly cast anchor, until wind and tide serve XX. them for other places.1 From hence they may sail to the river of Wessaguscus, Naponset, Charles river, and Misticke river ; on which rivers be seated many towns. In any of these forenamed harbours, the sea- men, having spent their old store of wood and water, may have fresh supplies from the adjacent islands, with good timber? to repair their weather-beaten ships. Here, likewise, may be had masts or yards, being store of such trees as are useful for the same purpose.
Having described the situation of the country in general, with all his commodities arising from land and sea, it may add to your content and satisfaction, to be informed of the situation of every several plant- ation, with his conveniences, commodities, and dis- commodities, &c.
Where, first, I will begin with the outmost plant- ation in the Patent, to the southward ;3 which is called Wessaguscus,4 an Indian name. This as yet is
1 Nantasket Road is still a favor- ite anchorage. It lies between George's island and Hull.
2 This shows that the islands were at this time well wooded; al- though the settlers of New Ply- mouth, on their first visit to the harbour in Sept. 1621, found some of them " cleared from end to end." See Chronicles of Plymouth, p. 229. 3 Bordering on the Old Colony of Plymouth. The dividing line be- tween the Colonies is marked on the splendid topographical Map of Mas- sachusetts, made by order of the Legislature in 1844.
4 Wessaguscus, afterwards called Weymouth, was first planted by fifty or sixty men sent over by Tho-
mas Weston in the summer of 1622. The plantation, however, was bro- ken up and abandoned the next spring. A few months afterwards, the ground was reoccupied by Capt. Robert Gorges, son of Sir Ferdi- nando, with William Morell, an episcopal clergyman, "and sundry passengers and families." Losing much of their goods and provisions by a fire at Plymouth in November, some of them returned to England, out of discontent and dislike of the country. Morell remained a year, and wrote a Latin poem descriptive of the country and its productions, which is printed in Mass. Hist. Coll. i. 125-139. "At his going away," says Gov. Bradford, "he told some
395
QUINCY AND DORCHESTER.
but a small village ; yet it is very pleasant, and CHAP. healthful, very good ground, and is well timbered, XX. and hath good store of hay-ground. It hath a very 1633. spacious harbour for shipping before the town, the salt water being navigable for boats and pinnaces two leagues. Here the inhabitants have good store of fish of all sorts, and swine, having acorns and clams at the time of year. Here is likewise an ale- wife river.
Three miles to the north of this, is Mount Walles- ton,1 a very fertile soil, and a place very convenient for farmers' houses, there being great store of plain ground, without trees. This place is called Massa- chusetts Fields, where the greatest sagamore2 in the country lived, before the plague, who caused it to be cleared for himself. The greatest inconvenience is, that there is not very many springs, as in other places of the country ; yet water may be had for digging. A second inconvenience is, that boats can- not come in at a low water, nor ships ride near the shore.
Six miles further to the north lieth Dorchester, which is the greatest town in New-England,3 well
of our people he had a power of superintendency over the churches here, but never showed it. And thus the second plantation at the Massachusetts ended." But "some few remain," he adds ; and these may have been the nucleus of the subsequent permanent settlement. See p. 309; Savage's Winthrop, i. 43 ; Prince's Annals, pp. 204, 214, 221, 224 ; Chronicles of Plymouth, pp. 297, 342.
1 This hill in Quincy, near the shore, and not far from President Adams's seat, still bears the name of Mount Wollaston.
2 Chickatabot. See page 305.
3 Dorchester originally included in its territory the towns of Milton, Stoughton, Sharon, Canton, and Foxborough. It was then about 35 miles in length, and in some places from six to eight in width. Some idea of its comparative wealth at that time may be obtained from the fact, that in this year, 1633, when a rate of £400 was assessed upon the Colony, Dorchester was called upon to pay £80, one-fifth of the whole, whilst Boston, Roxbury, Charles- town, and Watertown were each taxed only £48, and Salem £28.
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396
ROXBURY.
CHAP. wooded and watered, very good arable grounds, and XX. hay-ground, fair corn-fields and pleasant gardens, 1633. with kitchen gardens. In this plantation is a great many cattle, as kine, goats, and swine. This plant- ation hath a reasonable harbour for ships. Here is no alewife river, which is a great inconvenience. The inhabitants of this town were the first that set upon the trade of fishing in the Bay ; who received so much fruit of their labors, that they encouraged others to the same undertakings.
A mile from this town lieth Roxberry, which is a fair and handsome country-town, the inhabitants of it being all very rich. This town lieth upon the main, so that it is well wooded and watered, having a clear and fresh brook running through the town; up which, although there come no alewives, yet there is great store of smelts, and therefore it is called Smelt Brook.1 A quarter of a mile to the north side of the town is another river, called Stony river, upon which is built a water-mill.2 Here is good ground for corn, and meadow for cattle. Up westward from the town it is something rocky ; whence it hath the name of Roxberry. The inhabitants have fair houses, store of cattle, impaled corn-fields, and fruitful gardens.
Twenty years later, viz. in 1652, Edward Johnson thus describes the town. "Dorchester, a frontier town, is situated very pleasantly both for facing the sea, and also its large extent into the main land, well watered with two small rivers. Her houses for dwelling are about 140 ; orchards and gardens full of fruit trees ; plenty of corn-land ; although much of it hath been long in tillage, yet hath it ordinarily good crops. The number of trees are near upon 1500; cows, and
other cattle of that kind, about 450. Thus hath the Lord been pleased to increase his poor dispersed people, whose number in this flock are near about 150." See Savage's Win- throp, i. 112, and Mass. Hist. Coll. ix. 159, xii. 90.
1 This is probably the brook that divides Roxbury from Dorchester.
2 It is still called Stony Brook, and the water-mill, now called White's Mill, is yet at work near where the road to Brookline crosses the Providence rail-road.
397
BOSTON.
Here is no harbour for ships, because the town is CHAP. seated in the bottom of a shallow bay, which is made - 1633.
XX. by the neck of land on which Boston is built ; so that they can transport all their goods from the ships in boats from Boston, which is the nearest harbour.1
BOSTON is two miles north-east from Roxberry. His situation is very pleasant, being a peninsula, hemmed in on the south side with the bay of Rox- berry, on the north side with Charles river, the marshes2 on the back side being not half a quarter of a mile over ; so that a little fencing will secure their cattle from the wolves. Their greatest wants be wood and meadow-ground, which never were in that place,3 being constrained to fetch their building
1 Compare with this Edward Johnson's description of the place in 1652. "Roxbury, situated be- tween Boston and Dorchester, is well watered with cool and pleasant springs, issuing forth the rocky hills, and with small freshets, wa- tering the valleys of this fertile town; whose form is somewhat like a wedge double pointed, entering between the two forenamed towns, filled with a very laborious people, whose labors the Lord hath so blest, that in the room of dismal swamps and tearing bushes, they have very goodly fruit trees, fruitful fields and gardens. Their herd of cows, oxen and other young cattle of that kind, about 350, and dwelling-houses near upon 120. Their streets are large, and some fair houses ; yet have they built their house for church as- sembly destitute and unbeautified with other buildings. The church of Christ here is increased to about 120 persons. Their first teaching elder called to office is Mr. Eliot, a young man at his coming thither, of a cheerful spirit, walking unblama- ble, of a godly conversation, apt to teach, as by his indefatigable pains
both with his own flock and the poor Indians doth appear, whose language he learned purposely to help them to the knowledge of God in Christ, frequently preaching in their wigwams, and catechising their children." Johnson's History of New-England, ch. 21.
2 The marshes were on the isth- mus or neck which connects Boston with Roxbury.
3 " Mr. Wood was wrong in as- serting that 'wood was never in this place.' It had doubtless been the favorite residence of the natives for many years, and a considerable por- tion had been cleared by burning, as was their custom, for the culture of corn. Hence it was sometimes called the plain neck ; and compared with the surrounding country, cov- ered with interminable forests, it might with propriety be called plain. There were, however, many large clumps left, sufficient for fuel and timber. The growth was probably similar to that of the islands. Had the peninsula been wholly denuded of trees even the temptation of Mr. Blackstone's spring of fresh water could not have induced the first
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398
THE HILLS OF BOSTON.
CHAP. timber and firewood from the islands in boats1 and XX. their hay in lighters. It being a neck, and bare of 1633. wood, they are not troubled with three great annoy- ances, of wolves, rattlesnakes, and mosquitoes. These that live here upon their cattle, must be con- strained to take farms in the country, or else they cannot subsist ; the place being too small to contain many, and fittest for such as can trade into England for such commodities as the country wants, being the chief place for shipping and merchandise.
This neck of land is not above four miles in com- pass ;2 in form almost square, having on the south side, at one corner, a great broad hill,3 whereon is planted a fort, which can command any ship as she sails into any harbour within the still bay. On the north side is another hill,4 equal in bigness, whereon stands a windmill. To the north-west, is a high
planters to settle at Shawmut at the approach of a rigorous winter." Shaw's History of Boston, p. 77.
1 At a Court held Nov. 7, 1632, "it is ordered that the inhabitants of Boston shall have liberty to fetch wood from Dorchester neck of land for twenty years, the propriety of the land to remain to Dorchester." Col. Rec. i. 94.
2 The peninsula on which Boston is built, contained originally about 700 acres. Its whole length, from Roxbury line to Winnisimet ferry is two miles and three-fourths and 238 yards. Its greatest breadth, from Foster's wharf to Barton's point, is one mile and 139 yards. See Mass. Hist. Coll. iii. 242.
3 This hill was originally called Corn Hill ; but after the fort was built, it received the name of Fort Hill, which it still retains. It is situated at the eastern extremity of the city, directly opposite the har-
bour. The fortification was begun May 24, 1632, the people of Charles- town, Roxbury, and Dorchester working upon it in rotation ; and in May, 1634, " it was in defence, and divers pieces of ordnance mounted in it." See Winthrop, i. 77, 99, 132. 4 This hill at the north end of the city, opposite Charlestown, and which formerly rose to the height of 50 feet above the sea, was first call- ed Windmill Hill, from the wind- mill on its summit, which was brought down from Watertown in August, 1632, " because it would not grind but with a westerly wind." On the map of Boston, printed in 1722, it is called Snow Hill. About the time of the Revolution, in 1775, it bore the name, which it still re- tains, of Copp's Hill, after William Copp, the earliest proprietor of a portion of it. See Winthrop, i. 87; Snow's Boston, p. 105.
399
THE TREMONT.
mountain,1 with three little rising hills on the top of CHAP. it ; wherefore it is called
1633.
THE TRAMOUNT.
From the top of this mountain a man may overlook all the islands which lie before the bay, and descry such ships as are upon the sea-coast. This town, although it be neither the greatest nor the richest, yet it is the most noted and frequented, being the centre of the plantations, where the monthly Courts are kept.2 Here likewise dwells the Governor. This place hath very good land, affording rich corn- fields and fruitful gardens ; having likewise sweet and pleasant springs.3
1 The top of this beautiful hill, which was in the rear of the State House, was 138 feet above the level of the sea. With its two adjoining eminences it occupied about 100 acres of ground. The easternmost hill was where Pemberton Square now stands, and the westernmost occupied what is now called Mount Vernon, near Louisburgh Square. The central elevation received the name of Sentry and afterwards Bea- con Hill, from the beacon which was placed on its summit to alarm the country in case of invasion, by setting fire to a tar-barrel fixed on the top of it. This beacon was blown down by the wind in Nov. 1789. The wood-cut represents the three hills as they appeared
when seen from Charlestown. See p. 313; Snow's Boston, pp. 65, 112, 315; Mass. Hist. Coll. iii. 244.
2 At a Court held Oct. 3, 1632, "it is thought, by general consent, that Boston is the fittest place for public meetings of any place in the Bay." It is still thought so, and probably always will be.
3 "' BOSTON," says Johnson, writ- ing in 1652, "is the centre town and metropolis of this wilderness work. Environed it is with the brinish floods, saving one small isth- mus, which gives free access to the neighbour towns by land on the south side. On the north-west and north-east two constant ferries are kept for daily traffic thereunto. The form of this town is like a heart,
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400
BROOKLINE AND CHARLESTOWN.
CHAP. XX.
- 1633.
The inhabitants of this place, for their enlarge- ment, have taken to themselves farm-houses in a place called Muddy-river,1 two miles from their town ;2 where is good ground, large timber, and store of marsh land and meadow. In this place they keep their swine and other cattle in the summer, whilst the corn is on the ground at Boston, and bring them to the town in winter.
On the north side of Charles river is Charles Towne,3
naturally situated for fortifications, having two hills on the frontice-part thereof next the sea ; the one well fortified on the superficies thereof with store of great artillery, well mounted. The other hath a very strong battery, built of whole tim- ber, and filled with earth, at the de- scent of the hill, in the extreme point thereof. Betwixt these two strong arms lies a large cove or bay, in which the chiefest part of this town is built, overtopped with a third hill. All three, like overtop- ping towers, keep a constant watch to foresee the approach of foreign dangers, being furnished with a beacon and loud-babbling guns, to give notice, by their redoubled echo, to all their sister towns. The chief edifices of this city-like town are crowded on the sea-banks, and wharfed out with great industry and 'cost; the buildings beautiful and large, some fairly set forth with brick, tile, stone, and slate, and or- derly placed, with comely streets, whose continual enlargement presag- eth some sumptuous city. The won- der of this modern age, that a few years should bring forth such great matters by so mean a handful ; and they so far from being enriched by the spoils of other nations, that the states of many of them have been spoiled by the lordly prelacy, whose lands must assuredly make restitu- tion. At this people's landing, the hideous thickets in this place were such, that wolves and bears nursed
up their young from the eyes of all beholders, in those very places where the streets are full of girls and boys, sporting up and down, with a contin- ued concourse of people. Good store of shipping is here yearly built, and some very fair ones. Both tar and masts the country affords from its own soil ; also store of victual both for their own and foreigners' ships, who resort hither for that end. This. town is the very mart of the land. French, Portugals, and Dutch come hither for traffic." Johnson's Hist. N. E., ch. 20. See p. 313.
1 This place continued to be call- ed Muddy-river and Muddy-river Hamlet, till Nov. 24, 1705, when it was incorporated as a distinct town, by the name of Brookline. See Winthrop, i. 88, 290; Dr. Pierce's Hist. of Brookline, in Mass. Hist. Coll. xii. 145.
2 That is, in a direct line across the water, over which they used to pass in boats when they went to their farms. The Rev. John Cot- ton, of Boston, had a farm here. It included the two estates now owned by John Kenrick and Moses Andem. See Dr. Pierce's Address at Brook- line, Oct. 14, 1845, p. 17.
3 "This town of Charles," says Johnson in 1652, " is situated on the north side of Charles river, from whence it took its name, the river being about five or six fathoms deep ; over against the town many small islands lying to the seaward of it, and hills on either side. By which
401
CHAP. XX. - 1633.
CHARLESTOWN.
which is another neck of land, on whose north side runs Misticke river. This town, for all things, may be well paralleled with her neighbour Boston, being in the same fashion with her bare neck, and con- strained to borrow conveniences from the main, and to provide for themselves farms in the country for their better subsistence. At this town there is kept a ferry-boat1 to convey passengers over Charles riv- er ; which, between the two towns, is a quarter of a mile over, being a very deep channel. Here may ride forty ships at a time.
Up higher it is a broad bay,2 being above two miles between the shores, into which runs Stony river and Muddy river.3 Towards the south-west, in the middle of this bay,2 is a great oyster bank.4
Towards the north-west of this bay is a great creek, upon whose shore is situated the village of
means it proves a very good harbour for ships .; which hath caused many seamen and merchants to sit down there. The form of this town, in the frontice-piece thereof, is like the head, neck, and shoulders of a man. Only the pleasant and navigable river of Mistick runs through the right shoulder thereof, and by its near approach to Charles river in one place, makes a very narrow neck; by which means the chief part of the town, whereon the most buildings stand, becomes a penin- sula. It hath a large market-place, near the water side, built round with houses comely and fair ; forth of which there issue two streets, orderly built, with some very fair houses, beautified with pleasant gardens and orchards. The whole town consists, in its extent, of about 150 houses. Their meeting-house for Sabbath assembly stands in the market-place, very comely built and large. The number of souls,
(church members) is about 160. Their corn land in tillage in this town is about 1200 acres; their great cattle are about 400 head ; sheep near upon 400." Johnson's N. E., ch. 18.
1 By an order of the Court of As- sistants, June 14, 1631, Edward Converse was permitted "to set up a ferry between Charlton and Bos- ton, for which he is to have 2d. for every single person, and 1d. apiece if there be two or more." See Col. Rec .; and Frothingham's Charles- town, p. 94.
2 The Back Bay, as it is called, west of the Common, across which runs the Mill-dam road, or Western Avenue.
Muddy river is the boundary 00 between Roxbury and Brookline.
4 "Aug. 6, 1633. Two men, servants to one Moody, of Roxbury, returning in a boat from the wind- mill, (on Copp's Hill,) struck upon the oyster bank." Winthrop, i. 106.
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402
CAMBRIDGE.
CHAP. XX. -
Medford,1 a very fertile and pleasant place, and fit for more inhabitants than are yet in it. This town 1633. is a mile and a half from Charlestown; and at the bottom of this bay the river begins to be narrower, being but half a quarter of a mile broad.
By the side of this river is built Newtown, which is three miles by land from Charlestown, and a league and a half by water. This place was first intended for a city ;2 but, upon more serious considerations, it was not thought so fit, being too far from the sea, being the greatest inconvenience it hath. This is one of the neatest and best compacted towns in New-Eng- land, having many fair structures, with many hand- some contrived streets. The inhabitants, most of them, are very rich, and well stored with cattle of all sorts, having many hundred acres of ground paled in with one general fence, which is about a mile and a half long, which secures all their weaker cattle from the wild beasts. On the other side of the river lieth all their meadow and marsh ground for hay.3
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1 " Medford and Mistick were then distinct places, though not so at present. Medford I take to have been a small village at the lower part of Mistick river, now called Neck of Land, where a creek also ran into Charles river." Hutchin- son's Mass. i. 22. See Winthrop, i. 69.
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2 See pages 320 and 339.
3 " At this time those who were in place of civil government, having some additional pillars to underprop the building, began to think of a place of more safety, in the eyes of man, than the two frontier towns of Charlestown and Boston were for the habitation of such as the Lord had prepared to govern this Pilgrim people. Wherefore . they rather made choice to enter farther
among the Indians, than hazard the fury of malignant adversaries, who in a rage might pursue them; and therefore chose a place, situate on Charles river, between Charlestown and Watertown, where they erected a town, called Newtown, now nam- ed Cambridge. This town is com- pact closely within itself, till of late years some few straggling houses have been built. The liberties of this town have been enlarged of late in length, reaching from the most northerly part of Charles river to the most southerly part of Mystick river. It hath well-ordered streets, and comely, completed with the fair building of Harvard College. Their first pastor was the faithful and la- borious Mr. Hooker. The people of this town are at this day in a
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