USA > Massachusetts > Chronicles of the first planters of the colony of Massachusetts Bay, 1623-1636 > Part 30
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403
WATERTOWN.
Half a mile westward of this plantation, is Water- CHAP. XX. 1633. towne, a place nothing inferior for land, wood, mea- dow, and water, to New-towne. Within half a mile of this town is a great, pond,1 which is divided be- tween those two towns, which divides their bounds northward. A mile and a half from this town is a fall of fresh waters,2 which convey themselves into the ocean through Charles river. A little below this fall of waters, the inhabitants of Water-towne have built a wear to catch fish, wherein they take great store of shads and alewives. In two tides they have gotten one hundred thousand of those fishes. This is no small benefit to the plantation.3 Ships of small
thriving condition in outward things ; also both corn and cattle, neat and sheep, of which they have a good flock, which the Lord hath caused to thrive much more in these latter days than formerly. This town was appointed to be the seat of govern- ment ; but it continued not long. This year (1633) a small glean of rye was brought to the Court as the first fruits of English grain ; at which this poor people greatly re- joiced to see the land would bear it. But now the Lord's blessing that way hath exceeded all people's ex- pectation, clothing the earth with plenty of all kinds of grain." John- son, chap. 28. An excellent histo- ry of Cambridge, written by the Rev. Dr. Holmes, the accurate au- thor of the Annals of America, is contained in Mass. Hist. Coll. vii. 1-67. A more enlarged history of the town, prepared with indefatiga- ble labor and research, is soon ex- pected from the pen of the Rev. Lucius R. Paige, of Cambridge.
1 Fresh Pond, from which most of the ice is obtained that is export- ed from Boston.
2 From Wood's description, it would appear that the original set- tlement at Watertown was in a very
different spot from the present vil- lage. Winthrop, too, says that "a wear was erected by Watertown men upon Charles river, three miles above the town, where they took great store of shads." Winthrop, i. 73.
3 " Watertown," says Johnson, " is situate upon one of the branches of Charles river, a fruitful plot, and of large extent, watered with many pleasant springs and small rivulets, running like veins throughout her body ; which hath caused her inhab- itants to scatter in such manner, that their Sabbath assemblies prove very thin, if the season favor not, and hath made this great town, con- sisting of 160 families, to show no- thing delightful to the eye in any place. This town began by occa -. sion of Sir Richard Saltonstall, who, at his arrival, having some store of cattle and servants, they wintered in those parts. This town abounds in several sorts of fish at their seasons, bass, shad, alewives, frost-fish, and smelts. Their herd of kine, and cattle of that kind, are about 450, with some store of sheep and goats. Their land in tillage is near upon 1800 acres. This church is increas- ed to near about 250 souls in church
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404
MEDFORD AND CHELSEA.
CHAP. XX. burthen may come up to these two towns ; but the oyster banks1 do bar out the bigger ships.
1633.
The next town is Misticke,2 which is three miles from Charles-towne by land, and a league and a half by water. It is seated by the water's side very pleasantly ; there be not many houses as yet. At the head of this river are great and spacious ponds,3 whither the alewives press to spawn. This being a noted place for that kind of fish, the English resort thither to take them. On the west side of this river the Governor hath a farm,4 where he keeps most of his cattle. On the east side is Master Cradock's planta- tion, where he hath impaled a park, where he keeps his cattle, till he can store it with deer. Here like- wise he is at charges of building ships. The last year one was upon the stocks of a hundred ton.5 That being finished, they are to build one twice her burthen. Ships, without either ballast or loading, may float down this river. Otherwise, the oyster bank would hinder them, which crosseth the channel.
The last town in the still bay is Winnisimet,6 a very sweet place for situation, and stands very com-
fellowship. Their first pastor was Mr. Phillips, a man mighty in the Scriptures, and very diligent to search out the mind of Christ there- in contained." Johnson's Hist. of New-England, ch. 23. An excel- lent History of Watertown, in 151 pages octavo, was published in 1830, written by the Rev. Convers Fran- cis, formerly minister of the town, and now a professor in the Divinity School at Cambridge.
1 See page 401.
2 Mistick is now Medford. It was originally the name of Cradock's farm or plantation, containing about 2500 acres, on the north side of
Mystick river. Medford continued a manor or plantation till Oct. 15, 1683, when it was made a separate town. See pages 313 and 374; Savage's Winthrop, ii. 161 ; Froth- ingham's Charlestown, pp. 89-93.
Mystick, Horn, and Spy Ponds.
4 Governor Winthrop's farm on the banks of the Mystick was called Tenhills, which name is still retain- ed. See note 1 on page 104.
5 See note 1 on page 185.
6 Chelsea. A flourishing village in this town, connected with Boston by a steam-ferry, retains the ancient name of Winnisimet.
405
THE ISLANDS IN BOSTON HARBOUR.
modiously, being fit to entertain more planters than CHAP. XX. 1633.
are yet seated. It is within a mile of Charlestown, the river1 only parting them.
The chief islands which keep out the wind and the sea from disturbing the harbours are, first, Deer Island,2 which lies within a flight-shot of Pullin-point. This island is so called because of the deer, which often swim thither from the main, when they are chased by the wolves ; some have killed sixteen deer in a day upon this island. The opposite shore is called Pullin-point, because that is the usual chan- nel boats use to pass through into the bay ; and the tide being very strong, they are constrained to go ashore, and haul their boats by the seaside, or roads ; whereupon it was called Pullin-point.3
The next island of note is Long Island, so called from his longitude. Divers other islands be within these, viz. Nodle's Isle, Round Isle, the Governor's Garden, where is planted an orchard, and a vineyard, with many other conveniences, and Slate Island, Glass Island, Bird Island, &c.4 These isles abound with woods, and water, and meadow ground, and whatsoever the spacious fertile main affords. The inhabitants use to put their cattle in these for safety, viz. their rams, goats, and swine, when their corn is on the ground. Those towns that lie without the
1 Mystick.
2 Deer island, lying between Point Shirley and Lovell's Island, keeps its original name.
3 It is now called Point Shirley. See Winthrop, i. 90; Prince, p. 403 ; Mass. Hist. Coll. iii. 299.
4 Long island still retains its an- cient name. Noddle's island is now East Boston. Round Isle is proba-
bly Apple Island. The Governor's Garden is the island on which Fort Warren is built. Slate Island is off Crow Point, in Hingham. Grass Island (Glass probably an error,) is off Weymouth. Bird island was between Noddle's and Governor's. Its soil is washed away, but it is dry at low water.
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406
LYNN AND NAHANT.
1633. CHAP. bay, are a great deal nearer the main, and reap a XX.
greater benefit from the sea, in regard of the plenty both of fish and fowl which they receive from thence; so that they live more comfortably, and at less charges, than those that are more remote from the sea, in the inland plantations.
The next plantation is Saugus, six miles north-east from Winnesimet. This town is pleasant for situa- tion, seated at the bottom of a bay, which is made on the one side with the surrounding shore, and on the other side with a long sandy beach. This sandy beach is two miles long, at the end whereon is a neck of land, called Nahant.1 It is six miles in circumference, well wooded with oaks, pines, and cedars. It is, besides, well watered, having, besides the fresh springs, a great pond2 in the middle ; be- fore which is a spacious marsh. In this neck is store of good ground, fit for the plough ; but for the pre- sent it is only used for to put young cattle in, and wether-goats, and swine, to secure them from the wolves. A few posts and rails from the low-water marks to the shore keeps out the wolves, and keeps in the cattle. One Black William,3 an Indian duke, out of his generosity, gave this place in general to this plantation of Saugus ; so that no other can ap- propriate it to himself.
Upon the south4 side of the sandy beach the sea beateth, which is a true prognostication to presage
1 See Lewis's History of Lynn, (2d ed.) pp. 21-27.
2 This is called Bear Pond. See Lewis's Lynn, p. 29.
3 An Indian, called Black Will, was hung at Richmond's Isle in 1632, for being concerned in the
murder of Walter Bagnall. He was, probably, however, a different per- son from the Duke of Saugus. See Winthrop, i. 62, 99; Lewis's Lynn, p. 51.
4 More properly on the east side.
407
RUMNY MARSH.
storms and foul weather, and the breaking up of the CHAP. frost. For when a storm hath been, or is likely to XX. 1633. be, it will roar like thunder, being heard six miles ; and after storms, casts up great store of great clams, which the Indians, taking out of their shells, carry home in baskets.
On the north side of this bay is two great marshes, which are made two by a pleasant river1 which runs between them. Northward, up this river, goes great store of alewives, of which they make good red herrings ; insomuch that they have been at charges to make a wear, and a herring-house to dry these herrings in. The last year were dried some four or five last,2 for an experiment ; which proved very good. This is like to prove a great enrichment to the land, (being a staple commodity in other coun- tries,) for there be such innumerable companies in every river, that I have seen ten thousand taken in two hours by two men, without any wear at all, sav- ing a few stones to stop their passage up the river. There likewise come store of bass, which the Indians and English catch with hook and line, some fifty or threescore at a tide.
At the mouth of this river runs up a great creek3 into that great marsh, which is called Rumny Marsh ;4 which is four miles long and two miles broad, half of it being marsh ground, and half upland grass, with- out tree or bush. This marsh is crossed with divers creeks, wherein lie great store of geese and ducks.
1 Saugus or Abousett river. See page 169.
A last of white herrings is 12 barrels ; of red herrings, 20 cades, 'or 20,000. See Richardson's Dic- tionary.
3 Now called Chelsea Creek.
4 In Chelsea. There is said to be a place of the same name in the County of Kent, England. See Am. Antiq. Soc. Trans. ii. 441.
1 -
8
,
408
LYNN.
CHAP. There be convenient ponds for the planting of duck- XX.
- - oys. Here is likewise, belonging to this place,1 1633. divers fresh meadows, which afford good grass, and four spacious ponds,2 like little lakes, wherein is store of fresh fish, within a mile of the town ; out of which runs a curious fresh brook,3 that is seldom frozen, by reason of the warmness of the water. Upon this stream is built a water-mill, and up this river come smelts and frost-fish, much bigger than a gudgeon. For wood, there is no want, there being store of good oaks, walnut, cedar, asp, elm. The ground is very good, in many places without trees, fit for the plough. In this plantation is more Eng- lish tillage than in all New-England and Virginia besides ; which proved as well as could be expect- ed, the corn being very good, especially the barley, rye, and oats.
The land affordeth the inhabitants as many rarities as any place else, and the sea more ; the 'bass con- tinuing from the middle of April to Michaelmas, which stays not above half that time in the bay. Besides, here is a great deal of rock-cod and mack- erel, insomuch that shoals of bass have driven up shoals of mackerel from one end of the sandy beach to the other, which the inhabitants have gathered up in wheelbarrows. The bay that lieth before the town, at a low spring tide, will be all flats for two miles together ; upon which is great store of muscle- banks and clam-banks, and lobsters amongst the rocks and grassy holes. These flats make it unnavi-
1 That is, Saugus, or Lynn.
2 Their names are Flax, Tomline, Cedar, and Spring. See Lewis's Lynn, p. 29.
3 The name of it is Strawberry Brook. It conects the three first- named ponds with Saugus river. See Lewis's Lynn, pp. 20, 29, 84.
409
SALEM.
gable for ships. Yet, at high water, great boats, CHAP. lighters, and pinnaces of twenty and thirty ton, may ~
XX. sail up to the plantation ; but they need have a skil- 1633. ful pilot, because of many dangerous rocks and foam- ing breakers, that lie at the mouth of that bay. The very aspect of the place is fortification enough to keep off an unknown enemy. Yet may it be fortified at a little charge, being but few landing places there- about, and those obscure.1
Four miles north-east from Saugus, lieth Salem, which stands on the middle of a neck of land very pleasantly, having a South river on the one side, and a North river on the other side. Upon this neck, where the most of the houses stand, is very bad and sandy ground. Yet, for seven years together, it hath brought forth exceeding good corn, by being fished but every third year. In some places is very good ground, and very good timber, and divers springs, hard by the sea-side. Here, likewise, is store of fish, as basses, eels, lobsters, clams, &c. Although their land be none of the best, yet beyond those rivers is a very good soil, where they have
1 " Lynn," says Johnson, " is between Salem and Charlestown. Her situation is near to a river, whose strong freshet, at breaking up of winter, filleth all her banks, and with a furious torrent vents it- self into the sea. This town is fur- nished with minerals of divers kinds, especially iron and lead. The form of it is almost square ; only it takes too large a run into the land-ward, as most towns do. It is filled with about 100 houses for dwelling. Here is also an iron mill in constant use ; but as for lead, they have tried but little yet. Their meeting-house is on a level land, undefended from the cold north-west wind, and there-
fore made with steps descending into the earth. Their streets are straight and comely, yet but thin of houses. The people mostly inclin- ing to husbandry, have built many farms remote there ; cattle exceed- ingly multiplied ; goats, which were in great esteem at their first coming, are now almost quite banished ; and now horse, kine, and sheep, are most in request with them. The first · feeder of this flock of Christ was Mr. Stephen Batchelor, gray and aged." Johnson's Hist. N. E., ch. 22. There is a History of Lynn, including Nahant, by Alonzo Lewis, in octavo, 278 pages, 2d ed., 1844.
410
MARBLEHEAD AND IPSWICH.
.
CHAP. taken farms, and get their hay, and plant their corn. XX. There they cross these rivers with small canoes, 1633. which are made of whole pine trees, being about two foot and a half over, and twenty foot long. In these likewise they go a fowling, sometimes two leagues to sea. There be more canoes in this town, than in all the whole Patent ; every household having a water- house or two. This town wants an alewife river, which is a great inconvenience. It hath two good harbours, the one being called Winter, and the other Summer harbour,1 which lieth within Derby's fort ;2 which place, if it were well fortified, might keep ships from landing of forces in any of those two places.
Marvill Head3 is a place which lieth four miles full south from Salem, and is a very convenient place for a plantation, especially for such as will set upon the trade of fishing. There was made here a ship's loading of fish the last year, where still stand the stages and drying scaffolds. Here be good harbour for boats, and safe riding for ships.
Agowamme4 is nine miles to the north from Salem,
1 Winter harbour is now called Cat Cove ; and Summer harbour is the principal harbour of Salem. See Felt, i. 231, 241.
2 This fort was probably built on Naugus' Head, on Marblehead side. It may have got its name from Wil- liam Darby, one of the Company in London, who in May, 1628, sub- scribed £50 to the joint stock. See p. 174, and Felt, i. 111, 205.
3 See note 4 on page 244.
4 By order of Court, Aug. 4, 1634, called Ipswich. " This town," says Johnson, " is situated on a fair and delightful river, whose first rise or spring begins about five and
twenty miles farther up in the coun- try, issuing forth a very pleasant pond. But soon after it betakes its course through a most hideous swamp of large extent, even for many miles, being a great harbour for bears. After its coming forth this place, it groweth larger by the income of many small rivers, and issues forth in the sea, due east over against the Island of Sholes, a great place of fishing for our English na- tion. The peopling of this town is by men of good rank and quality, many of them having the yearly re- venue of large lands in England be- fore they came to this wilderness.
411
MERRIMACK RIVER.
which is one of the most spacious places for a plant- CHAP. ation. Being near the sea, it aboundeth with fish, XX. and flesh of fowls and beasts, great meads and 1633. marshes and plain ploughing grounds, many good rivers and harbours, and no rattlesnakes.
In a word, it is the best place but one, which is Merrimacke,1 lying eight miles beyond it, where is a river twenty leagues navigable. All along the river side is fresh marshes, in some places three miles broad. In this river is sturgeon, salmon, and bass, and divers other kinds of fish. To conclude, the
This town lies in the sagamoreship or earldom of Agawam, now by our English nation called Essex. It is a very good haven town, yet a little barred up at the mouth of the river. Some merchants here are ; but Bos- ton being the chiefest place of resort of shipping, carries away all the trade. They have very good land for husbandry, where rocks hinder not the course of the plough. The Lord hath been pleased to increase them in corn and cattle of late, inso- much that they have many hundred quarters to spare yearly, and feed, at the latter end of summer, the town of Boston with good beef. Their houses are many of them very fair built, with pleasant gardens and orchards, consisting of about 140 families. Their meeting-house is a very good prospect to a great part of the town, and beautifully built. The church of Christ here consists of about 160 souls." Johnson's N. E., ch. 30. See Winthrop, i. 101, 133, 137. A History of this town, written by the Rev. J. B. Felt, in 300 pages octavo, was printed in 1834.
1 Merrimack I take to be New- bury, which Johnson thus describes. " This town is situate about twelve miles from Ipswich, near upon the wide venting streams of Merrimack river, whose strong current is such
that it hath forced its passage through the mighty rocks ; which causeth some sudden falls, and hinders ship- ping from having any access far into the land. Her banks are in many places stored with oaken timber of all sorts ; of which that which they commonly call white oak is not in- ferior to our English timber. In this river lie some few islands of fertile land. This town is stored with meadow and upland ; which hath caused some gentlemen, (who brought over good estates, and find- ing then no better way to improve them,) to set upon husbandry ; among whom that religious and sin- cere-hearted servant of Christ, Mr. Richard Dummer, some time a ma- gistrate in this little commonwealth, hath holpen on this town. Their houses are built very scattering, which hath caused some contending about removal of their place for Sab- bath assemblies. Their cattle are about 400 head, with store of corn- land in tillage. It consists of about seventy families. The souls in church fellowship are about a hun- dred." Johnson's Hist. of. N. E., chap. 31. See Chronicles of Ply- mouth, pp. 402, 403. A History of Newbury, by Joshua Coffin, was published in 1845, in octavo, 416 pages.
412
UNREASONABLE EXPECTATIONS.
CHAP. country hath not that which this place cannot yield. XX. So that these two places may contain twice as many 1633. people as are yet in New-England, there being as yet scarce any inhabitants in these two spacious places. Three miles beyond the river of Merrimack is the outside of our patent for the Massachusetts Bay.
These be all the towns that were begun when I Aug. came for England ; which was the 15th of August, 15. 1633.
I have informed you of the country in general, and of every plantation in particular, with their com- modities, and wherein one excelleth another. But some, peradventure, may say that they have heard that the people have been often driven to great wants and extremities. To which I answer; it is true that some have lived for a certain time with a little bread, others without any. Yet all this argues nothing against the country in itself, but condemns the folly and improvidence of such as would venture into so rude and unmanaged a country without so much pro- visions as should have comfortably maintained them in health and strength, till by their labors they had brought the land to yield his fruit. I have myself heard some say, that they heard it was a rich land, a brave country ; but when they came there, they could see nothing but a few canvass booths and old houses, supposing at the first to have found walled towns, fortifications, and corn-fields ; as if towns could have built themselves, or corn-fields have grown of themselves, without the husbandry of man. These men, missing of their expectations, returned home and railed against the country.
413
ALL NEW-ENGLAND MUST WORK.
Others may object, that of late time there hath CHAP. been great want. I deny it not. But look to the ~ XX. original, and tell me from whence it came. The 1633. root of their want sprung up in England. For many hundreds, hearing of the plenty of the country, were so much their own foes and country's hindrance, as to come without provision ; which made things both dear and scant. Wherefore, let none blame the country, so much as condemn the indiscreetness of such as will needs run themselves upon hardship. And I dare further assure any, that will carry provi- sion enough for a year and a half, shall not need to fear want, if he either be industrious himself, or have industrious agents to manage his estate and affairs.
And whereas many do disparage the land, saying a man cannot live without labor ; in that they more disparage and discredit themselves, in giving the world occasion to take notice of their dronish dis- position, that would live of the sweat of another man's brows. Surely they were much deceived, or else ill informed, that ventured thither in hope to live in plenty and idleness, both at a time ; and it is as much pity that he that can work and will not, should eat, as it is pity that he that would work and cannot, should fast. I condemn not such, therefore, as are now there, and are not able to work. But I advise, for the future, those men that are of weak constitutions to keep at home, if their estates cannot maintain servants. For all New-England must be workers in some kind. And whereas it hath been formerly reported, that boys of ten or twelve years of age, might do much more than get their living,1
1 See page 246.
414
THE COUNTRY FAR FROM BEING POOR.
CHAP. that cannot be. For he must have more than a boy's XX. head, and no less than a man's strength, that intends 1633. to live comfortably ; and he that hath understanding and industry, with a stock of £100, shall live better there than he shall do here of £20 per annum.
But many, I know, will say, If it be thus, how comes it to pass then that they are so poor ? To which I answer, that they are poor but in comparison. Compare them with the rich merchants or great land- ed men in England, and then I know they will seem poor. There is no probability they should be ex- ceeding rich, because none of such great estate went over yet. Besides, a man of estate must first scatter before he gather. He must lay out moneys for trans- porting of servants and cattle and goods, for houses, and fences and gardens, &c. This may make his purse seem light, and to the eye of others seem a leaking in his estate. Whereas these disbursements are for his future enrichments ; for he being once well seated and quietly settled, his increase comes in double. And howsoever they are accounted poor, they are well contented, and look not so much at abundance as a competency. So little is the poverty of the country, that I am persuaded if many in Eng- land, which are constrained to beg their bread, were there, they would live better than many do here that have money to buy it.
Furthermore, when corn is scarce, yet may they have either fish or flesh for their labor. And surely that place is not miserably poor to them that are there, where four eggs may be had for a penny, and a quart of new milk at the same rate ; where butter is six pence a pound, and Cheshire cheese at five
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