History of Essex County, Massachusetts : with biographical sketches of many of its pioneers and prominent men, Vol. II, Part 112

Author: Hurd, D. Hamilton (Duane Hamilton) ed
Publication date: 1888
Publisher: Philadelphia, J. W. Lewis & Co.
Number of Pages: 1672

USA > Massachusetts > Essex County > History of Essex County, Massachusetts : with biographical sketches of many of its pioneers and prominent men, Vol. II > Part 112

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Prior to the establishment of the post-office, John- son's Nahant and Boston Express route was com- menced between Nahant and Boston. It is said to be one of the first express routes established in the country.

In 1880 a case of typhoid fever was brought into the town, and, from its contagious nature, was con- veyed to those who had charge of the case, wutil

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quite a number were sick with the dreaded disease. In some instances the plan of drainage introduced was very poor. The object seemed to be to get the sewage out of sight and as deep in the ground as pos- sible; the old-fashioned surface draining was aban- doned, with its small cesspool near the surface, where vegetation absorbed and carried off the sewage that might be deposited there. These cesspools were always to be found covered with a rank growth of grass and weeds. But these small cesspools were dis- tasteful to many persons, and accordingly large reser- voirs were dug, ten and in some instances fifteen feet deep. These were walled up with stones, and a brick arch was built over the stone-work, leaving an open- ing of two or three feet in diameter, over which an iron or plank covering was tightly fitted; this was covered over with earth to securely close it up. In many instances the bottom of these reservoir cess- pools were on a level with the water in the wells, which of course affected the drinking-water. The thoughtlessness on the part of those who allowed these reservoir cesspools to be dug on their premises, caused, perhaps, a few cases of fever. Thus the alarm went abroad, and sanitary engineers were employed, who at once saw the ditficulty. The earth in many cases had become filled with sewage near the water- line of the water in the wells. One course was left for the town-which was to put in sewers-and this work was commenced February 16, 1882, under the charge of Mr. E. W. Bowditch, of Boston. All drain- age from the houses was conducted into sewers, which emptied into the ocean, and the old cesspools were filled with gravel and abandoned.

Two years later, water-pipes were laid and water was introduced by the Marblehead Water Company.

The following record of deaths, compiled from the town records from 1854 to the present time (1887), will speak forcibly for itself and show elcarly Nahant in the past, as well as to-day, has a record for health- fulness unsurpassed by any town in New England.

The whole number of deaths in the town from Sep- tember, 1853, to March 30, 1887, is two hundred and fifty-seven.

The following is a list of the diseases: Typhoid fever, G; typhus, 1; scarlet fever, 5; paralysis, 12; lung fever, 5; cancer, 11; diphtheria, 4; whooping- cough, 5; croup, 6; cholera infantum, 10; phthisis, 6; canker, 8; meningitis, 5; brain diseases, 6; heart disease, 14; pneumonia, 6; intemperance, 2; cholera morbus, 2; drowning, 13; shipwrecked, J; consamp- tion, 22; other diseases, 89.

There are besides, fifteen deaths from okl age,-the oldest person being ninety-eight and the youngest Meventy-three, -while twenty-two other old persons died of different diseases incident to okl age- the oldest of these persons being eighty-four, the young- est bet ity live. This makes thirty-seven of the two huid el and fifty-seven who lived over seventy- five year -.

Of the children born in the town, only twenty-four have died aged five years and under. We have living in the town to-day four persons over eighty-five years old.

We quote the following from a paper written by Dr. Walter Channing, published in the New England Medical Journal of January, 1821 :

"Children who have been remarkably susceptible of the diseases of advanced summer, and to whom the whole of the hot weather has been very unfriendly, have experienced at Nahant uninterrupted and rolnict health. The health of infants and children who have been born in this place is proverbial. The oldest inhabitant does not recollect an instance of death in infancy or childhood in such individuals. The salutary effects of this chmate in preventing disease are not confined to children. I know several adults who have also experienced them. Ju relieving or curing disease this place has been frequently instrumental. The effects on those who have made the experiments of a residence here have, in some in- stances, been very striking. Cases of perfect relief, in cases of extreme exhaustion from disease, and in others where the symptoms of disease still continued, have occurred within the writer's knowledge the last summer.

"In some of these the amendment took place in a very short time. What are the diseases for which this residence seems most appropriate ? This question can be but imperfectly answered.

" The facts are not yet sufficiently numerous in relation to any par- ticular affection or any classes of diseases, to enable me to give a full answer. This, however, is true, that patients have gone there in an helpless state of exhaustion from a variety of enuses, and have experi- enced very marked rehef. There are three classes of affections in which a residence at Nabant has been found beneficial. First-in those of weaning children suffering the diseases of demition and during the hot weather. Second-in the dyspeptic complaints of adults. Third-in the debility and emaciations with which some organic affections are attended. For the varions entancons diseases and the chronic enlargemeuts of glands attendant on the scrofulous diathesis, in which sea- Inthing and a fine bracing atmosphere are beneficial, this is an highly eligible situa- tion."

LONG AND SHORT BEACHES .- Three stone posts, located at the northeasterly end of Long Beach, mark the boundary line between Lynn and Nabant. A few rods to the east of the boundary line the Hotel Nabant is located. The present proprietor commenced business there at an early date, in a small building, adding each year bathing-houses, sheds, a restaurant, etc., until to-day he has a flour- ishing business and a large and commodious build- ing. Thousands from Lynn and other places are attracted here daily during the summer months by the excellent surf-bathing and the cool breezes from the ocean. Nearly opposite is a yacht-yard, on the bay side of the beach. In winter many yachts are stored in and about this yard in the sand; in summer they make an attractive and lively appearance as they sail about in the smooth waters of the bay.

Long Beach contains about forty acres of land, covered with sand, which, above the tide-mark, is nearly covered with a rank growth of grass, which has flourished from the first planting; the seed was imported from Holland, from the grass sowed on the dikes. Under the sand, the whole beach is a bed of clay over fifty feet thick,-a sufficient barrier against the beating of the waves, and insuring a lasting high- way between Lynn and Nahant.

The two or three trees planted near the centre of the beach have lived through the gates of nearly a

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quarter of a century, but bear their impress in their bent and stunted appearance. Although this exper- iment has not proved much of a success, yet we hope in the future to see groves of trees planted in groups of a hundred trees, protecting each other from the gales and making a desirable resting-place for the many who would enjoy it.

LITTLE NAHANT .- At the end of the beach is Little Nahant, which is chiefly owned by the Sim- mons and Howe families, who have their summer residences here. From these cottages there is a fine view of the ocean and the town beyond. From the summit of Little Nahant the descent to the sea is gradual, and an easy access is had to the rocks; but on the south side the cliffs are irregular, and, in a few instances, are steep and rugged. There are 'a few natural curiosities here. One is a large boulder near the road, below the watering-trongh. It is com- posed of pebbles and clay, and is as hard as flint. It is thought to have been deposited there in the gla- cier period from the Great Lakes. On the south side there is a spring.

Leaving Little Nahant, the road continues around the curve of Short Beach ; and a road turning to the right over a short bridge leads to Bass Point.

On reaching Great Nahant, at the foot of a hill, there is a little village invariably known as "Irish-' town."

CEMETERY .- Nearly up the hill, to the right, is Green Lawn Cemetery. This cemetery was dedicated in 1859; it is in a quiet and sheltered place, open to the south wind and sunshine, while a small hill forms a part of the eastern boundary and serves as a barrier from the easterly gales. It is zealously cared for by the town, and is laid out in walks, with many groves of trees and shrubs. Before this cemetery was set out and dedicated, many of the early settlers who died at Nahant were carried to Lynn and in- terred in the different burying-grounds there, while others have family burying-grounds. There was an old family burying-ground near the old school-house; but the remains of those buried there have been re- much changed excepting the spring itself, from which moved to the present cemetery.

At the top of the hill is the new grammar-school building, which is just three miles from the Boston and Maine Station in Lynn.

CADETS. - The hill to the left, formerly called Cannon Hill, was the early camping-ground of the First Corps of the Boston t'adets, who, for upwards of twenty-five years, had their annual encampment at Nahant.

But this land being purchased by a summer resi- dent, they eneamped farther to the eastward, in the field above John's Peril, until this field also was pur- chased, causing the corps to find accommodation else- where, thus depriving Nahant of her onee boasted Cadet Week. These yearly encampments at Nahant were a marked event of the season, and were familiarly known as " Cadet Week at Nahant."

All gathered to the camp to enjoy the parades and drills, and in the evening to listen to the band concerts. Many people also from adjoining towns visited the camp and all in common made it the gayest week of the season.

JOHN'S PERIL .- Nearly opposite the school-house is a road which leads to the north shore. At the foot of the road is an overhanging cliff, some forty feet above the boulders below. This cliff is called John's Peril from the following incident :

John Breed, a member of the Breed family, then living at Nahant, while one day going along the shore with his oxen and cart, in search of drift-wood, came to this cliff, and to shorten the distance, at- tempted to make his oxen drag the cart up the steep ascent above the cliff, leading to the road ; but half- way up the cart and load proved too much for the oxen; Mr. Breed saw his peril and with great presence of mind detached the cart-tongue from the yoke of oxen, letting the cart and load go over the cliff, where they were dashed to pieces on the rocks below. The name of John's Peril has ever since been attached to the cliff.

MAOLIS GARDENS .- A little farther along the shore is the famous North Spring, so frequently visit- ed in former years by parties from the adjoining towns. In the summer months not a day passed without one or more parties who spent the day there fishing and making chowders, for which purpose rude fire places were built by the side of the linge boulders and in the crevices of the ledges. It was a favorite resort of military and fire companies, as well as religions societies and Sunday-schools. From

these daily visits to the North Spring, Mr. Tudor conceived the idea of making these grounds more at- tractive by artificial improvements. He purchased and inelosed the land, planted groves of trees and built sheds, swings, ete. This has been known for the past twenty-five years as the Maolis Gardens. Until within the last four or five years it has been a favorite and popular resort, but to-day everything is the cold water is still running, filling the little bowl- shaped pool, which has been worn by the constant flow of water which pours into and over it until it reaches and mingles with the sea.

NORTH SHORE .- A short distance farther on there is a flight of stone steps, at the foot of which is a stone basin, over which the water of another spring bubbles up from under the shelving ledge; formerly a half-barrel tub was placed over this spring, and it was used as a watering-place for the cattle.

From these springs a marginal road extends over eighty rods in length, this road, as well as the sea wall of stone, having been built at great cost by Mr. Tudor. There was formerly a sloping bank, washed in at places by the sea, and always known as the North Side.

At the end of this road a foot-path runs along

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below the bank, and winds along the shore. This path is generously maintained by the summer resi- dents who occupy the land above.

THE IRON MINE .- A little below the Agassiz cot- ' sea to be again forced back into the rock-channel, tage is a bleak ledge and point of rocks, always and again and again flung into flying spray. Thus at the right time of tide we have one of the grandest sights that visitors can witness, especially after a storm. But unfortunately, from some unknown cause, a few years ago a large part of the ledge was broken off and fell at the outer end or mouth of the channel, obstrueting the water as it enters and break- ing its force so much that it does not send the water so high in the air or with such force as formerly. Before this happened the noise of the water as it entered the channel could be heard distinctly in the village. If this obstruction could be removed, we should without doubt again see the old-time Spouting Horn throwing the spray, as in former times, a hun- dred feet into the air. known as the " iron mine." It is without doubt the same ledge discovered by Captain John Smith, and mentioned by him in the account he afterwards pub- lished. In 1691 iron ore, called rock mine, was taken from the ledge at Nabant for the forge at Braintree. "Some of it was smelted in the foundry at Saugus, and more was taken for the forge at Braintree." " It was voted that Mr. Hubbard of Braintry should give three shillings for every twenty tunn of rock mine yt hee has from Nahant, to the town, for the town's use, and hee to have soe much as the town sees convenient." It is not probable that a great deal of this ledge was ever carried from Nahant to Lynn or Braintree for smelting. Although the quality of the ore smelted in these furnaces may have been good, there was not sufficient iron in the rock to make it profitable. The town records give no further account of the iron mine at Nahant.

Beyond this the path leads along the bank until imite a steep bluff is reached, where a seat has generously been kept for public use by the owners of the land. The cottage that stands a short distance inland from this seat is the first summer cottage. built at Nahant, and the only one that remains as first built, although additions have been made on the west side ; the front has the same appearance as when first built in 1$20. For over fifty years it has been occupied by the Cary family.

SPOUTING HORN. Beneath the bluff mentioned above is Spouting Horn ; to the north, a few rods from the foot of this cliff, is Spouting Rock; beyond, a part of the ledge juts into the sea. At high tide it appears as a lone rock, and the sea washes it on every side, but at low tide a narrow channel separates it from the main ledge. The channel is always full of water, but narrow enough for stepping across. This is called Brook Rock, and is noted as a desirable place for fishing; cod, tautog and perch can be caught there, and it is related that one of our early fisher- men caught a halibut from this rock.

many feet in the air, to fall again upon the rocks, making a sound like the falling of water from a cata- ract. Then it tumble- back again into the foaming

BASS BEACH .- From the cliff the walk continues to the eastward until a gateway is reached, which leads into a gravelly walk extending through private grounds, beautifully laid out. Looking seaward from this point can be seen a long, irregular point of rocks. called Saunders Ledge, running out into the ocean over an eighth of a mile. It is a famous place for fishing at low tide. Looking inland can be seen one of the most beautiful lawns the town can boast, and a summer residence, in a commanding position, with an unsurpassed sea view. Between the house and the main street are broad walks bordered with flowers and trees. The lodge by the gate is located on the spot where the old Hood House once stood.

A little farther on is Bass Beach Hill. A plank walk extends a part of the way along the path around the shore to the hill, at the end of which is a wooden scat placed on the top of the hill, from which a fine view can be had.

Below this steep bank is a pebbly beach, shaped some- thing like a horseshoe. Castle Rock and a point of rocks to the north form the mouth of the cove. A long flight of steps, called " Forty Steps," leads to the beach. At the southerly end of the beach at low tide there can be seen a smooth ledge, worn out into bowls and basins by the constant washing of the sea over the ledge.

Spouting Rock is formed by a narrow channel in the ledge, opened to the sea. Into this channel the To the south, over cragged rocks and smooth waves rush to be met by the ledge that forms the boulders, Cedar Island is reached. On the top of this miner end, which throws back the water in sufficient large roek there is a little patch of earth, on which grass and wild peas grow. The outer cliff, separated by a deep gorge from Cedar Island, is known as Castle Rock. torre to send the spray flying over the ledge beyond. The Spouting Horn is more of a natural cusiosity, as it i at the tout of a large overhanging cliff, from the top of which one can look directly down into the To the south of these rocks is another cove and pebbly beach known as Canoe Beach or Canoe Beach Cove. In this cove two vessels have been driven ashore by the northeasterly storms. long, narrow brook-like channel that has been worn sBooth by the action of the water. As the water is torved mito this channel it enters a cone, or tunnel- shaped hole in the ledge, and rushing into this aperture e is forced out by the compressed air in such force as to send the foaming waters and sea-werd

The grassy slope to the west was once the favorite camping-ground of the J'enobscot Indians in the sum- mer season. Opposite is a triangular piece of land

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purchased by an Englishman, who commenced the ereetion of a summer residence there. The founda- tions were laid and preparations were being made to erect a building, when he was discovered to be a de- fanlter from the Bank of England, and was arrested and carried home for trial.

At the end of Nahant road an open gateway leads into a fine avenue, half-way up which a small sign directs to the cliff's. These cliffs rise up bold and steep from the ocean. To the left is East Point, and from here to the south or west a walk is provided. The stone house that stands near East Point was formerly the billiard-room for the Nahant Hotel, and is all that remains of what was connected with the hotel. There is a grand view of the ocean from its piazza, while to the west are seen two summer residences-one on the eastern slope, on the site where the Nahant Hotel formerly stood, and the other on the south or opposite side of the cliff's. The grounds of both are beautifully and tastefully laid out with groves of shade-trees and beds of flowers, walks and avenues winding through the green lawns, while at the base of the outcropping ledge, shrubbery and vines are made to grow.

PULPIT ROCK .- Among the natural curiosities of the cliff's is Pulpit Roek, a mass of rock about forty feet in height, standing out alone and apart from the cliffs. Natural Bridge is a small rocky arch, connect- ing two elifl's over a deep gorge. These cliffs rise out of the ocean to the height of thirty and forty feet. At the westerly end of the cliff's is the large boulder or Shelter Rock, from which is seen the Shag Rocks, two lone rocks, which were formerly a favorite place for sportsman and angler.

Pea Island juts out into the water from the cliff near which is the summer residence formerly occupied by Prescott.

The adjoining lot to the eastward is the stately residence of a descendant of one of the early summer residents. It is placed where once stood the cottage formerly occupied by Winchester, Crowninshield and Longfellow.

At the end of the street, down a steep decline, at the water's edge, is Swallow's Cave, accessible when the tide is out. A cavern or passage runs through the ledge, which rises perpendicularly from the water. The entrance from the west side is about ten feet high and opens into a large, roomy space in the rock. From this roomy space the ledge seems to have spread apart, leaving an opening sufficiently wide for an easy passage through to the rocks at the east end. In a westerly direction from here, along a foot-path on the edge of the bank, now abandoned, as the piazza of a resident covers it, and nearly opposite the old steam- boat landing, was Trene's Grotto, described by Lewis as a "tall arch, singularly grotesque and beantiful, leading to a large room in the rock. This is one of the greatest curiosities on Nahant, and was formerly much more so, until sacrilegious hands broke down a

part of the roof above to obtain stone for building." At the present time it has no attraction, being the receptacle for ashes and drain-pipes for the cottage above it.

On the wharf where vessels formerly landed their cargoes of wood and coal, a residence has been built, from the piazza of which one can cateh small fish. This is a striking contrast to the old days of steamboat travel, when crowds of people landed and embarked there. The once busiest spot in the town, during the summer season, is now quiet and retired, its quiet broken only by the wash of the tide.

To the northward is Josie's Beach, curved in to- wards the land from the sea. It is a long, sandy beach helow high-tide mark, while above it, stones form little points jutting out in the water. The stones are worn smooth by the constant sweeping, up and down the sloping beach, by the tide. At the westerly end of the beach a steep and almost perpendicular bluff rise- up forty feet or more, and on the top is built the residence of the late Amos Lawrence, formerly for many years the site of the summer residence of Mr. B. C. Clark,

A little farther on a rock boldly makes up out of the water, which was formerly called Bass Rock, while at a more recent date it has been known as Clark's Point ; the name was given in honor of the former owner, who maintained a flagstaff liere, from which the stars and stripes were hoisted, during the many years that he owned the rocky point. To the west, twenty or thirty rods in the bay, the yacht " Raven" was moored, the pride of its owner. For up- wards of thirty years this little craft came and went from these moorings, until she was sold to be used as a fishing vessel, and a new yacht, the " Young Raven," replaced her. Her new owners, by chance, once, anchored her near her old anchorage grounds. While at anchor there she went ashore, by the parting of her cables, in the gale of March 13, 1865, and was dashed to pieces, her planks and timbers being strewn along the rocks, where her former owner had for years previous landed and embarked in h s favorite craft.

From the point northward the land rises in a gentle ascent from the sea to the hill, where there are two estates-the Longfellow and Lawrence cottages. No pretensions are made in artificial improvement by planting of trees or shrubs from the former estate. Blackberry and barberry bushes, with here and there a clump of sumach, wander at will over the grounds, making them as primitive in appearance as when Captain John Smith first saw them.

A foot-path through the grass and wild bushes leads to Stony Beach, where once the boat-houses were built. Upon these floors tons of fish were emptied from the fishing fleet, and were transported in wagons to be sold in the Boston markets.

To the west, by an inward curve of the beach, along a path con-trueted by Mrs. Tudor, is Nipper Stage Point, now the landing-place for the steamboat

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in summer. Looking across the water of the cove is the long row of willow trees which shade Willow road.

I'pon the ridge, nearly midway between Dorothy's Cove and Bailey's Ilill, a summer residence has been built, which appears as if it had risen out of the sea and tide. The spray from the breakwater that pro- tects it is blown into its windows. At high tide it appears as a cottage anchored in the sea.

Beyond this ridge of sand and stones deposited by the sea is a long stretch of meadow land.

Bear l'ond makes its southern boundary, and a nar- row brook runs through the centre of the meadow, passing under "Little Bridge," and enters into the bay

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History of Essex County, Massachusetts : with biographical sketches of many of its pioneers and prominent men, Vol. II, Part 112

Author: Hurd, D. Hamilton (Duane Hamilton) ed Publication date: 1888 Publisher: Philadelphia, J. W. Lewis & Co. Number of Pages: 1672

Author: Hurd, D. Hamilton (Duane Hamilton) ed
Publication date: 1888
Publisher: Philadelphia, J. W. Lewis & Co.
Number of Pages: 1672