USA > Massachusetts > Berkshire County > History of the county of Berkshire, Massachusetts, in two parts > Part 2
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Along the western boundary of the County, runs the Taconic range of mountains. In the South part, the line is considerably west of the summit-along the mid- dle of the County, is near the summit-and towards the north, it is, in different places, on both sides of the sum- mit. Owing to the direction of the range more westerly, the north-west corner is many hundred feet below and east of the summit of the range. The Taconic range extends by its spurs from one to three or four miles easterly into the County. On the west of Pittsfield, this range begins to turn more towards the east, leaving the most of Hancock on the west of the higher part, which ends abruptly in a high hill at the south part of Williamstown, bounding the Williamstown valley on the south. Another ridge passes off from it in Han- cock, west of Lanesborough, along which the boundary line is continued on the west of Hancock and Williams- town. The spur, which by terminating as mentioned above, affords a space for the Williamstown valley, 2* . 2
18
HISTORY OF BERKSHIRE.
seems to commence again north of the valley, and to, continue its course into Vermont. The eastern range is every where covered to the summit with the original forest trees.
The Taconic range is much the most elevated and least broken in the south part of the County. As you pass northwards, it is divided by deep valleys nearly to its base, forming comparatively easy passages for roads. This is specially true in passing from West Stockbridge and the middle of Hancock into the State of New York. The general elevation of the Taconic range, at the north and below the middle of the County, is about 1200 or 1400 feet. In Egremont, it becomes consider- ably higher; and the highest summit of Taconic moun- tain, often called Mount Washington, on the west of Sheffield, is elevated about 2400 feet above the plain in that town, and 3150 feet above the tide water of the Housatonic river. This mountain has two prominent peaks, of which the south may be about 400 feet lower than that just mentioned. It is composed of numerous piles of mountains, extending several miles in length. It has a very grand appearance. The rock, towards the summit of this mountain, is to a great extent destitute of soil, and the higher parts are nearly destitute of trees.
The Housatonic valley extends from Lanesborough and Windsor on the north, or from about twelve miles south of the north boundary of the County, southwards through the middle of it. Its breadth is very various. Reckoning from the foot of the east and west range of hills, it varies from four to eight miles. The insulated hills which so often occur in it, give it the appearance generally of being much narrower than this. These hills disappear in Pittsfield, and afford a very fine and wide opening. In Lenox and Lee, the valley appears much narrower; in Stockbridge, it is rather wider; be- comes wider in Great Barrington ; and in Sheffield, as the hills are less frequent, appears wider still ; though the largest opening is in the town first mention- ed. The beauty of this valley has often been remarked by travellers. In the southern part of the County, the. beauty of the level road is greatly heightened by its proximity to the Housatonic. The mountain scenery.
19
VALLIES.
of this valley can never fail to attract the eye and inter- est the feelings of the man of taste.
The valley of Williamstown, lying between the Ta- conic range on the west, and Saddle Mountain on the east, is much narrower and shorter than the one al- ready described. It presents many bold and sublime views of the adjoining mountains and hills, which are at such a distance from the eye in the middle of the valley, as to show themselves to the greatest advantage. The richness of the vegetation, and the thickness and luxu- riance and numerous colours of the forests on the hills, have called forth the admiration of all the lovers of wild and romantic scenery who have visited it. The varying landscape of the valley itself, lies in full view from ma- ny of the eminences, bounded by the grand scenery of the mountains.
On the south-west, this valley extends several miles, narrow indeed, into the town of Hancock. It is also. connected on the east, with the narrow valley of Adams, winding between Saddle Mountain on the west, and Hoosic Mountain in Florida on the east, in the most picturesque manner, on both sides of the south and prin- cipal branch of the Hoosic river, southwards through Cheshire. Indeed, the valley of Adams extends south- wards with a gradual ascent to the valley of the Housa- tonic, in the north-east part of Pittsfield, passing a slight elevation, from which the waters run northwards into the Hoosic, or southwards into the Housatonic.
The valley of Williamstown is separated much more perfectly from that of the Housatonic, on the south in New Ashford, by the multitude of hills which stretch across this town to the south-east part of Saddle Moun- tain. The romantic scenery along the narrow and wind- ing defile through which the county road passes in this. part of New Ashford, the hills being almost in contact with the traveller, never fails to attract attention. In- deed, the steepness of the cultivated hills, and the road winding along a murmuring branch of the Hoosic, has often reminded the traveller of the interesting scenery of Switzerland.
Besides the general ranges and mountains already mentioned, a few others deserve to be noticed.
20
HISTORY OF BERKSHIRE.
Alum Hill, on the south-east of Sheffield, and sepa- rating the Housatonic from Kunkapot river. This is only the termination of the north-east mountain, on the north-east of Sheffield, extending north several miles into Great Barrington, and having an elevated summit of perhaps 1600 feet above the Housatonic at the west base.
Monument Mountain is on the south of Stockbridge, and situated chiefly in Great Barrington; receives its name from an Indian monument of quartz stones, a lit- tle west of the highest part crossed by the county road. The white cliffs of this mountain are quartz, and pre- sent a very fine view from the village of Stockbridge, and especially from the hill, or from Little Hill, as the meanderings of the Housatonic lie at the feet of the spectator. The elevation of this mountain is about 500 feet above the plain, in Stockbridge, and 1250 feet above the tide water of the Housatonic.
Stockbridge Mountain, separating Stockbridge from West Stockbridge, and on the west of which lie the quarries of marble in the latter town, extends north through Lenox. The great road from Springfield through Stockbridge to Albany, crosses this mountain.
Lenox Mountain seems to be only a continuation of the last mentioned mountain. . It is crossed by the road from Lenox through Richmond to Lebanon Springs and Albany. It extends north into Pittsfield.
Rattlesnake Hill, or Mountain, in the north-east part of Stockbridge, is a single and beautiful elevation.
Beartown Mountain, on the south-east of Stock- bridge, and north-east of Great Barrington, and form- ing the north-west part of Tyringham, and the south- west part of Lee, is a large and grand pile of hills.
Near the middle of West Stockbridge is a high hill, which divides the town into two distinct portions ; south of which is another, called Tom Ball, extending' into Great Barrington and Alford.
Washington Mountain, on the south-east of Pitts- field, and chiefly in Washington, has a lofty and round summit; extends south to Lee, and forms the east boundary of the Housatonic valley for several miles.
Hancock Mountain, on the west of Pittsfield, is chiefly in Hancock ; 14 miles long ; extends south into
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21
MOUNTAINS.
Richmond, and north along the west line of Lanesbo- rough and New Ashford, and terminates at the south part of the Williamstown valley. Over this mountain passes the great road from Pittsfield to Lebanon Springs and Albany ; and further north, the road from Lanesbo- rough to Albany passes the same mountain.
Peru Mountain, is in the town of Peru, over which passes the turnpike from Pittsfield to Northampton and Boston.
Becket Mountain is a continuation of the same part of the east range as the last, over which the turnpike from Stockbridge to Springfield and Boston passes.
Hoosic Mountain lies on the east side of Adams, chiefly in Florida; elevation about 1700 feet; extends north into Vermont; is here the principal part of the east range, and is crossed by the great road from Will- iamstown to Greenfield and Boston. A few miles át the south, and at a less elevation, it is crossed by the road leading from the south village of Adams to North- ampton.
Pownal Mountain, is north of Williamstown, and chiefly in Vermont.
Oak Hill is on the north-east of Williamstown, chief- ly in Clarksburg and Adams ; a wide range of hills, el- evated from 1200 to 1400 feet; extends into Vermont. The west side presents a most beautiful scene from the valley of Williamstown.
West Hills, the continuation of the Taconic range, along the boundary of the State in Hancock and Will- iamstown ; elevated about 1300 feet; turn westerly at the north to afford a passage for Hoosic river : over. this, directly west of the College, it is proposed to open a road from Williamstown to Troy, N. Y., which will lessen the distance near one fourth. This road is yet imperfectly wrought, and passes over high ground ; and is made much more difficult by descending into a deep valley on the west side of this range.
Reference will be made to some other hills also, in the Geology of the County, in some of the following pages.
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HISTORY OF BERKSHIRE.
RIVERS, PONDS, &c .- The two principal rivers are the Housatonic and Hoosic. The former is much the larger and longer.
The Housatonic river is formed by two principal branches, which unite in Pittsfield, about one mile south- east of the meeting-house. The eastern branch rises in Windsor, and pursues a south-westerly course through Dalton, where it receives a considerable stream from Hinsdale, to Pittsfield, forming numerous sites for the application of water power. On this branch are the large manufactories of paper in Dalton. A cotton fac- tory is on this branch at the east part of the village of Pittsfield.
The western branch is commonly said to originate in the pond or lake lying in Pittsfield and Lanesborough, but chiefly in the latter town. This pond is of an ellip- tic form, considerably more than a mile in length, and about a mile in width, having a small island near the middle of it. It is a beautiful sheet of water, and is viewed to great advantage from the hill on the east of it, over which the county road passes from Pittsfield to Lanesborough. This pond is commonly called the North or Lanesborough Pond. It has a small marsh on its northern border, which is supposed to render the at- mosphere unhealthy em its vicinity ; as the inhabitants in this part of Lanesborough are more liable to suffer from fevers in the autumn, than those situated about other parts of it.
The principal stream which enters this pond, rises in the south-west part of New Ashford, on high ground, where its waters are easily turned to the north to unite with the Hoosic, or naturally to the south, and constitu- ting the head waters of the western branch of the Hou- satonic. This stream runs south-easterly and south through Lanesborough, forming some small mill sites in the north part of the town, but running with a slow stream through most of the valley in Lanesborough to the pond before mentioned. It is probable that this pond was more elevated formerly, and covered a portion of the low ground on its north side, which is now excellent meadow land. A tributary to this stream rises in the south-east part of New Ashford and north-west part of Cheshire, and unites with it two or three miles before
23
RIVERS.
the western branch comes to the pond. From the Lanesborough Pond, the western branch pursues a southerly course, below and west of the village of Pitts- field, affording in the first two miles below the pond, nu- merous and very excellent sites for mills, many of which are occupied by grist-mills, saw-mills, fulling mills, Por- toosuc Woollen Factory, gun factory, triphammer shops, machine factory, &c. Still further south, and before this stream has turned much to the east to unite with the eastern branch of the Housatonic, important water pri- vileges are already occupied.
Another pond or lake in the western part of Pitts- field, called West Pond, is said to be larger than the Lanesborough or North Pond, and discharges its waters into the west branch of the Housatonic, west of the vil- lage in Pittsfield.
Several other smaller ponds, south and east of the centre of Pittsfield, discharge their waters into the Hou- satonic. Owing to the greater breadth of the valley in Pittsfield, and the number of ponds, the air is more hu- mid than in most parts of the County, and the quantity of dew appears to be considerably greater.
The course of the Housatonic, from the junction of the two branches in Pittsfield, is somewhat southerly along the east part of Lenox to the village in Lee, of- fering numerous water privileges also, occupied by mills, the furnace in the south-east part of Lenox, paper factories near the centre of Lee, machinery for cutting and turning timber for chairs, &c. The important mill sites in this part of Lee, are near and a little north of the village. A little south and west of the village in Lee, the Housatonic turns to the west, along the north base of Beartown Mountain. In the south-west part of Lee, its important mill sites are occupied by a forge, exten- sive factories for paper, &c. The river continues its course westerly into Stockbridge, thence north-westerly round the north part of Monument Mountain ; thence south-westerly in the west part of Stockbridge, along the east base of Stockbridge Mountain, and thence southerly along the west base of Monument Mountain, over considerable rapids and falls into Great Barrington. In the west and south-west part of Stockbridge, and the upper part of Great Barrington, are some very impor-
21
HISTORY 03 BERKSHIRE.
tant mill sites, several of which are unoccupied. From Monument Mountain, in a slow, winding course it comes to the middle of this town, through a beautiful intervale, where it forms an important mill site at Barrington Bridge. Thence its course is southerly, winding, and generally slow, to and through Sheffield, turning in the south part of this town towards the west, and thence again south to the line of the State of Connecticut. At the line, the elevation above tide water, at Derby, Con. is six hundred and twelve feet, and the river is here ten or twelve rods in width, with a depth of perhaps four feet. At Great Barrington, it is about six or seven rods in width, and its depth less than three feet. At Stockbridge, the width is little less, but with less depth of water. At the junction of the two branches in Pitts- field, the river is about three rods wide, and perhaps has an average depth of two feet.
Near the village in Lee, the Housatonic receives an important branch from the east, which rises in Green Water Pond in Becket, and towards the south-west of Lee, Hop Brook, which flows through Tyringham, joins it from the south-east.
In the south and east part of Lenox, and north-west of Lee, are some small natural ponds, whose waters run into the Housatonic on the west.
In Stockbridge, Konkapot's Brook, which rises in the south-west part of Tyringham and north-east of Great Barrington, runs north-westerly and receives Ne- gro Brook, issuing from a small pond and marsh on the north-east base of Monument Mountain, and the whole unites with the Housatonic from the south, near the vil- lage of Stockbridge. A little farther west and north, a considerable stream from the north, and issuing from Great Pond in Stockbridge, joins the Housatonic. This pond is about a mile and an half in length, and in the widest part a mile in breadth ; is bounded by a part of the Stockbridge Mountain on the west and north-west, whose summits and foliage and hollows are often reflect- ed from its silver surface most delightfully to the eye. The road passing along the east side of Great Pond to Lenox, affords splendid scenery. Near the outlet of Great Pond are valuable water privileges.
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25
RIVERS.
In Great Barrington, besides several smaller streams, the Housatonic is increased from the north-west by Williams' River, whose head waters are in Richmond, and in Canaan, N. Y., and which, passing through a natural pond in West Stockbridge, afford fine mill sites on the north-east part of that town. This place, for- merly so well known as the seat of Williams' Iron Works, has now several mills, and is indeed very active and business-like, by the working of vast quantities of marble. Besides supplying other mills in its course, this stream supplies the mills and factories at Van Deu- senville, in Great Barrington, half a mile west of its junction with the Housatonic.
Near the boundary between Great Barrington and Sheffield, the Housatonic receives Green River, from the north-west. It is so named from the colour of its waters, which is probably owing to the clay washed out of the banks. The colour, however, is the same through the year, except in the period of freshets, when its wa- ters are muddy. This stream rises in Austerlitz, N. Y., and runs along the town of Alford and through the south-west part of Great Barrington, to the point men- tioned.
In Sheffield, at a little distance north of the meeting- house, two streams unite, whose waters are crossed by the bridge directly at the point of union. One of these rises in Egremont and the north-west part of Sheffield, called here Hubbard's Brook, and pursues a south-east course to this point. The other, called Kisnop, or Ker- snop Brook, rises from two large ponds or lakes in Salisbury, Con., and pursues a northerly and northeast- erly course through the low grounds on the west part of Sheffield and east of Taconic Mountain, with a dull, sluggish stream, to the point of junction just mentioned. The whole stream then passes easterly through the meadows to the Housatonic, about a mile north-east of the meeting-house in Sheffield.
Little more than a mile further south, the Housatonic receives a stream from the east, which rises in the north-east of Sheffield and north-west part of New Marlborough, and passing through Three mile Pond, the main stream runs south-west into the river as above.
3
26
HISTORY OF BERKSHIRE.
Only moderately good water privileges are found on these streams in Sheffield.
At the south part of Sheffield, Konkapot river runs from the east into the Housatonic. This stream rises in Tyringham and New Marlborough, the west branch in Six Mile Pond, (near the rise of the stream of the same name which runs northerly into Stockbridge) flows south through New Marlborough, affording valuable mill sites ; passes through Konkapot, so called from an Indian village, in the south-east part of Sheffield, into Canaan, Ct .; then turning westerly and north-westerly round Alum Hill, runs into Sheffield to find its passage to the Housatonic. This stream has a valuable mill site also in Sheffield, at the place formerly so well known as Ashley's Iron Works.
There are some other smaller tributaries to the Hou- satonic in this part of the County.
Soon after the Housatonic enters into the State of Connecticut, it passes over the falls between Canaan and Salisbury, usually called Canaan Falls. The riv- er first falls over a rock of about twenty feet perpendi- cular ; and a little below, over the principal fall, about seventy feet, formed by a ledge of limestone, obliquely crossing the stream, increased a little by a dam erected on its top, and producing a very beautiful and grand ap- pearance. After a rapid current for a short distance, where its waters are whirling and foaming by dashing against the rocky bottom, it falls about ten feet. Its current is then rapid for some distance below. At Der- by, the Housatonic meets the tide water from Long IsI- and Sound, having received several important streams in its passage through the State of Connecticut.
In all its course through Berkshire County, the Hou- satonic, though not large and deep enough for boat nav- igation, is an exceedingly important stream, and con- tributes beyond calculation to the advantage and pros- perity of the inhabitants. Many of its sites for the ap- plication of water power, have been mentioned; of which a more full account may be given under the ac- count of manufactories in the various towns.
A survey of the elevation of the Housatonic was made a few years since by Judge Wright, to test the practica- bility of constructing a profitable Canal from Derby, in
BIVERS. 27
Connecticut, to the middle of Berkshire County. Ae- cording to this survey, the ascent from tide water at Derby to the top of Canaan falls, is - - - - 606 ft. From Canaan Falls to the bridge in Great Barrington, - - - 39
Thence to the Woollen Factory in Stockbridge, 120
Thence to the dam of Lee Forge, -
-
- 25 Thence to the dam of Lenox Furnace, - - 96
Thence to the foot of Wheeler's dam in Pittsfield,21 -
907 ft.
This rapid ascent will probably prevent the construc- tion of a Canal along the Housatonic, until the popula- lation and trade shall have very greatly increased.
Along the Housatonic in Berkshire County to Pitts- field, there is an interval of alluvial (made) land, very rich, easily cultivated, yielding abundance of grass. It is wider in the south part of the County, and occasion- ally disappears from the near approach of the hills; but often extends from one fourth of a mile to a mile in width. A considerable portion of it is annually over- Allowed by the melting of the snows in March, present- ing a flocd of waters in some places a mile in width in Sheffield, and varying from a foot to ten feet in depth, according to the inequalities of the surface. This flood is of great consequence in enriching annually the soil of this interval. On great falls of rain in summer, much damage is sometimes done to the grass and crops in this interval, by the rise of the river. Through the southern part of the County, the river appears at different times to have had its bed over nearly the width of the interval. The deep hollows and coves in the meadows, in some of which water continues many feet in depth through the year, prove clearly where its bed once lay. It is continually changing its course now, slowly but con- stantly wearing away from one bank, and forming al- luvion on the other ; and in this progress often uncov- ering trees from one to two or three' feet in diameter, in ,a state of complete preservation, often at a depth of six, eight and ten feet below the surface. These trees must have been buried for ages.
At the commencement of the rise of the waters in the spring, thousands of logs of pine and hemlock, have
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28
HISTORY OF BERKSHIRE.
been thrown into this river, and floated down its current from Great Barrington and Sheffield for years, over the falls at Canaan, to New Milford and Derby, where they have been converted into boards, plank, shingles, &c. for market in Connecticut and New York. The rise of the water has commonly carried them safely over the rocks in the stream. 'Their passage over the Falls has often been witnessed with amazement. This trade has carried a very great portion of the pine timber from the south part of the County.
Hoosic River has a northerly and north-westerly course. The south, and principal, branch rises in the south-east part of Lanesborough, 994 feet above the Hudson at Albany, runs north-easterly through Chesh- ire, and thence northerly through the south village of Adams to the north village in this town. Here it turns to to the west, to pass round the north end of Saddle Moun- tain and near the south base of Oak Hill into Williams- -in and on the town. Directly north of Saddie muuuidini, anlu vit vast north side of the Hoosic, stood, at a little distance from the stream, Hoosic Fort. Through Williamstown, the course of the river is north-westerly to the foot of North- west Hill, nearly two miles north-west from the Col- lege, where it turns towards the north, and passes into Pownal, Vt. Its course then becomes north-easterly through Hoosic, N. Y. to Hoosie Falls, from which it holds a westerly course to Schaghticoke Point, where it unites with the Hudson, about ten miles north of the city of Troy.
At the south village of Adams are important water privileges on the Hoosic, occupied by cotton factories and mills. Here it receives a small tributary from the east, which rises in the mountains towards Savoy. Here the Hoosic is little more than a rod in width, with an average depth of perhaps one foot. Its course is slow through the narrow valley of Adams to the north village, where is a very valuable mill site. Here is a grist-mill, saw-mill, oil-mill, machine factory and cotton factory. A few rods below this site, it is joined by a stream, called the North Branch of the Hoosic, which rises in Vermont, and passing southerly through Clarksburg along the base of Hoosic Mountain, turns to the west near this village in Adams to unite with the other branch?
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