Sketches of Boston, past and present, and of some places in its vicinity, Part 13

Author: Homans, I. Smith (Isaac Smith), 1807-1874. cn; Harvard University. cn
Publication date: 1851
Publisher: Boston, Phillips, Sampson, and Company; Crosby and Nichols
Number of Pages: 760


USA > Massachusetts > Suffolk County > Boston > Sketches of Boston, past and present, and of some places in its vicinity > Part 13


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Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33


"The geographical relations of the city of Boston, being almost an island, are peculiar. Although the extent of the city proper, at the pres- ent time, is estimated to be nearly double its original size, its capacity is all improved; dwelling houses are constantly giving room to stores ; and the increasing business of the city is still demanding further and larger accommodations. In fact, Boston has not only spread itself out, as it were, in all directions, but has actually extended its limits across two arms of the sea, and, once a city of three hills, is fast becoming a city of three cities ; and, at the same time, as if in this number was to be found the magic of the city's greatness, three other cities have grown up around her by the same impulse, - all indicative of the industry, activity, and enter- prise of the New England character."


OFFICERS. - Samuel S. Lewis, President ; Dexter Brigham, Jr., 'I'reas- urer ; J. P. Robinson, Clerk ; William L. Dearborn, Engineer. DIRECT- ORS, - David Henshaw, Charles Paine, Jolin W. Fenno, Ichabod Goodwin.


East Boston. - This portion of the city was originally known as Nod- dle's Island. Within the last twenty years it has become an important part of Boston, and now forms with the islands in the harbor the second ward, with a population of 9,000 persons. The Cunard Ime of steamers have their wharf at East Boston. There are several ship yards within the limits of this ward, also a large Sugar Refinery. The. Eastern Railroad commences at the wharf in East Boston.


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BOSTON ASYLUM AND FARM SCHOOL.


BOSTON ASYLUM AND FARM SCHOOL, ON THOMPSON'S ISLAND.


IN the year 1813, several gentlemen formed a society for the relief and education of such boys as might be found destitute of parental and friendly superintendence.


In February, 1814, an Act of Incorporation was granted them, and the society was organized, with the title of the Boston Asylum for Indigent Boys. For many years it was located at the corner of Salem and Charter streets, in the house formerly occupied by Governor Phips.


On the 9th of June, 1335, the boys, 52 in number, were removed to Thompson's Island, which is within the limits of the city, and about four miles of the City Hall.


A number of gentlemen in the city were very desirous that an institution should be established here, to which children either already corrupted, or beyond parental control, might be sent without the intervention of a legal conviction and sentence ; and in which such employments might be pur- sued by the children, as would make the institution, in the strictest sense, a school of industry. A plan for this object was submitted to a few gentle- men, by whom it was approved and matured; and a meeting was held in the hall of the Tremont Bank on the 27th of January, 1832, when a board of directors were chosen. Subscription papers were opened, and $ 23,000 were soon obtained. In the summer of 1833 following, Thompson's Island, containing 140 acres, was purchased for the objects of the institution; and a building is now completed there, which, besides ample accommodations for the officers of the establishment, is quite sufficient for the charge of more than 300 children. A suggestion having been made of the expedi- ency of connecting the proposed Farm School with the Asylum for Indi- gent Boys, conferences were held between the directors of these Institu- tions; and in March, 1835, they were united under the style of the Boston Asylum and Farm School.


The objects of the present institution are to rescue from the ills and the temptations of poverty and neglect, those who have been left without a parent's care; to reclaim from moral exposure those who are treading the paths of danger ; and to offer to those whose only training would other- wise have been in the walks of vice, if not of crime, the greatest blessing which New England can bestow upon her most favored sons. On the 1st of January, 1837, there were 107 boys; all of whom, as well as all other per- sons connected with the establishment on the island, were in good health. The occupations and employments of the boys vary with the season. In spring, summer, and autumn, the larger boys work upon the garden and fanın. The younger boys have small gardens of their own, which af- ford them recreation when released from school. In the winter season most of them attend school, where they are instructed in the learning usu-


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ISLANDS IN BOSTON HARBOR.


ally taught in our common schools, and some of them are employed in making and mending clothes and shoes for the institution. The winter evenings are occupied with the study of geography and the use of globes ; botany, and practical agriculture ; lecturing on different subjects ; singing and reading. Every boy in the institution is required to be present during the evening exercises if he is able. As to the success of the boys in the farming operations, Captain Chandler, the superintendent, says, "they have succeeded far beyond my expectations; I think that they have done more work, and done it better, than the boys of their age who have been regularly brought up to the business in the country, generally do." And as to the comfort and contentedness of the boys, he says, " they are all com- fortably clad with woollen clothes, shoes, stockings, and caps, and appear to be as happy in their present situation, as boys generally are under the paternal roof. The boys are well supplied with books, and required to keep them in order, - their library containing about 400 volumes of well- selected books."


Opportunities are occasionally offered to the friends of boys at the insti- tution, of visiting them on the island in the summer months. Twelve have been indented, principally as farmers. The present number is 100.


The annual subscription is $ 3; for life membership $ 25. This institu- tion bids fair to become one of the most useful in our city.


ISLANDS IN BOSTON HARBOR.


THE islands in Boston harbor are delightful resorts for citizens and strangers during the hot summer weather. If there are natural beauties, romantic elevations, or silent and wild retreats, in the vicinity of Boston, worth the poet's and philosopher's attention, they are in the harbor ; but to be admired they must be seen. These islands are gradually wearing away, and where large herds of cattle were pastured sixty years ago, the ocean now rolls its angry billows, and lashes with an overwhelming surge the last remains of earth. From the appearance which the islands present at this period, these were once round, or in other words, were nearly circu- lar at the base, and rose above the water like a dome; but the northern blasts, in connection with the terrible force of the tides accompanying such storms, have completely washed away every one of them upon the north side, in such a manner that they actually appear like half an island, - having had a vertical section, and hence there is a perpendicular bank facing the north, while the south and west gradually slope to the edge. To the east, the tide has made some destruction, but it bears no proportion to the north. This peculiarity is observable in all the islands which have soil. Towards the outer lighthouse, the islands are almost barren ledges of rocks, - having been washed of the earth from time immemorial. It is


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ISLANDS IN BOSTON HARBOR.


on the northeastern sides that the most danger is to be apprehended. Thompson's Island, lying between the Castle and Moon Head, is secured by natural barriers, as the former receives and resists the force of the tide before it reaches Thompson's; but Long Island, although defended in a measure by Rainsford, Gallop, George's, and Lovel's Islands, has lost con- siderable soil. Spectacle Island, so called from its supposed resemblance to a pair of spectacles, is sifting away by slow degrees, and nothing will prevent it.


GEORGE'S ISLAND.


This island is the key to the harbor, -commanding the open sea, afford- ing one of the best places for fortifications of any among the number. There is an elevation on the east and northeast, nearly 50 feet above higli- water-mark, in some places, with an easy ascent towards the south and southwest to the channel. This is the property of the United States. Fifty thousand dollars have been expended by Government for building a sea wall on the northeast. A trench was dug at the foot, below the low- water-mark, in which the foundation has been laid. This was made of split stone, of great weight, and bolted together with copper. We have never seen any masonry that would compare with it, in point of strength and workmanship. On this a second wall has been erected, equally formida- ble, on which the artillery is to be mounted. Under the superintendence of Captain Smith, whose good judgment has been exercised from the begin- ning, we may expect a fort in the outer harbor that will bid defiance to all the ships of war that ever sailed.


CASTLE ISLAND,


On which stands Fort Independence, was selected as the most suitable place for a fortress for the defence of the harbor, as early as 1633. It was built at first with mud walls, which soon fell to decay, and was afterwards rebuilt with pine trees and earth. In a short time, this also became use- less, and a small castle was built with brick walls, and had three rooms in it ; a dwelling room, a lodging-room over it, and a gun-room over that: The erection of this castle gave rise to the present name of the island. Great improvements are in progress here by the United States Govern- ment.


GOVERNORS' ISLAND,


Lies about one mile north of Castle Island, and was first called Conant's Island. It was demised to Governor Winthrop in 1632, and for many years after was called the Governor's Garden. It is now in the possession of James Winthrop, Esq., a descendant of the first Governor, excepting a part conveyed by him to the United States, for the purpose of constructing a fortress, now called Fort Warren. Its situation is very commanding, and in some respects superior to Castle Island.


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ISLANDS IN BOSTON HARBOR.


NODDLE'S ISLAND


Was first occupied by Samuel Maverick. He was on it when the settle- ment of Boston commenced. He built a fort in which he mounted four cannons, and afterwards had a grant of it from the General Court. In 1814, a strong fortress was built on this island by the citizens, and called Fort Strong, in honor of the Governor. This island is now known by the name of East Boston.


POINT SHIRLY


Formerly had the name of Pulling Point. The name which it now bears was given to it by the proprietors, as a mark of respect to the late Gover- nor Shirly.


DEER ISLAND


Is a delightful island, and is owned and leased by the city. It was for- merly a place of great resort in the summer season for parties of pleasure. Here is a large and convenient house, with a spacious ball-room and other conveniences, for the accommodation of visitors. The general government for several years past have been building a sea-wall round it of a formidable character. The first appropriation of Congress towards the object was eighty-seven thousand dollars.


LIGHTHOUSE ISLAND,


Was known for many years by the name of Beacon Island. The first lighthouse was erected in 1715. Pilots are established at this place, pro- vided with excellent boats, and a piece of artillery to answer signals.


THOMPSON'S ISLAND.


This is a promontory, nearly a mile and a half long, jutting into the har- bor, opposite Spectacle Island. The Boston Farm School Association have purchased this island, and established here their Farm School.


NIX'S MATE


Is an irregular, barren, and rocky base of an island, between Gallop and Long Island Head, almost entirely concealed at high water. There is a beacon of split stone in the centre, nearly forty feet square, fastened to- gethier by copper bolts, which perfectly secures it from the tremendous force of the waves in times of northeasterly gales. To speak more defi- nitely, the shape is a parallelogram, the sides being 12 feet high, and as- cended by stone steps on the south side. On the top of this, is a six-sided pyramid of wood, 20 feet high, with one window to the south. This is the conspicuous part of the beacon, and serves as a prominent warning to sea- men, to keep from the dangerous shoal on which it stands. At low tide, more than an acre of land is visible, and at high tide, only small boats can


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BOSTON IN DISTRICTS.


sail to the monument. A very aged gentleman states, that he can remem- ber when Nix's Mate was a verdant island, on which a large number of sheep were pastured. Forty-five years ago, although the soil is now com- pletely gone, there was pasturage for 50 head of sheep, entirely above high- water-mark.


Tradition says, that the master of a vessel, whose name was Nix, was murdered by his mate, and buried on this island, some century and a half ago. The mate was executed for the horrid crime, but declared he was in- nocent of the murder, and prophesied that the island, as an evidence of his innocence, would be entirely washed away. He was executed nearly on the spot where the pyramid is erected. The total disappearance of the land, above water, has led many to believe the truth of his assertion, - that he was unjustly put to death. The circumstances were handed down from one generation to another, till the erection of the beacon, when by general consent, among seamen, it took the name of Nix's Mate. It was the custom about a century ago to hang pirates in chains on this island, to strike a terror to sailors as they come into port, that the influence might deter them from the commission of such wickedness.


BOSTON IN DISTRICTS.


NORTH BOSTON.


BOSTON, like many other large cities, has been, by common consent, di- vided into districts, with names indicating the location of each. Thus we have North Boston, West Boston, East Boston, South End, and South Bos- ton. The first section embraces the north end of the city, or all that part lying north of Faneuil Hall, and what was the Canal, or Mill Creek. This is the oldest part, and formerly had the advantage of the principal trade. The streets here are generally narrow and crooked, and some of them re- main much as they were when first constructed, on the model of the old towns in England. "The government of the town, soon after its settle- ment, endeavored to correct some of their early errors, yet they seem to have had an utter aversion to straight lines or right angles ; and though their moral walk was upright, they took little pains to make their crooked highways straight." This irregularity, however, was partly occasioned by the uneven surface of the ground when the city was first built, and it is by no means certain that this ancient disposition of the streets, manifests a want of taste, or has materially injured the appearance of the city. On this subject a writer observes, "the forms and turnings of the streets of London, and other old towns, are produced by accident, without any origi- nal plan or design ; but they are not always the less pleasant to the walker or spectator, on that account. On the contrary, had they been built on


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BOSTON IN DISTRICTS.


the regular plan of Sir Christopher Wren, the effect might have been, as it is in some new places, rather unpleasing." In North Boston the buildings are mostly old, and many are built of wood, and exhibit the different styles of architecture used for a period of more than a century and a half. Ex- cept a portion of what was formerly the Mill-Pond, the only spot of land not covered by buildings at present is on Copps Hill, and the greater part of this is occupied for a burial ground. From this hill the British cannon- aded the town of Charlestown in 1775, during the memorable battle of Bunker Hill, when the village was principally destroyed by conflagration. They left a small fort standing on this hill, which remained a favorite re- sort for the recreation of school boys till 1607. The natural situation of this section of the city gives it an advantage over any other part ; whether considered as a place for comfortable and healthy residence or its conven- ience for trade. The channel of Charles River runs close to the shore, and has depth and width sufficient to accommodate ships of the greatest bur- den. The spirit for improvement, recently awakened in North Boston, shows that the citizens begin to appreciate its advantages.


WEST BOSTON.


This part of the city lies between the Common and Canal street, west of Hanover and Tremont streets, and has been recently built. The buildings are principally of brick, erected in a handsome style, and are mostly used as dwellings. The State.House, Hospital, National Theatre, Court-House, and Jail, are located in this section.


SOUTH END.


The South End comprises all the peninsula south of Summer and Win- ter streets, and extends to Roxbury. About one fourth of the buildings in this section are of wood. Those that have been most recently erected are of brick and granite, exhibiting an improved style of architecture. The buildings here, also, are generally occupied for dwellings, except the lower stories of those on Washington street.


SOUTH BOSTON.


South Boston is that section of the city which is separated from the pen- insula, or the ancient town, by an arm of the harbor reaching to Rox- bury. It contains about 560 acres, and, except East Boston, is the newest and most unsettled part o the city. Within a few years the population has increased rapidly, and a considerable number of buildings has been erected, principally of brick. This onc. was a part of Dorchester, and embraces the hills formerly known as Dorchester Heights, so famed in the annals of the American Revolution. There are two free bridges that con- nect this with the older part of the city ; - one is at the South End near the commencement of the Neck; the other leads from Wind-Mill Point, and was built in 1823. There is one bank located here.


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BOSTON IN DISTRICTS.


EAST BOSTON.


This is an island, formerly known as Maverick's, Noddle's, and Wil- liams' Island. In 1814, the citizens of Boston erected a fort on its eastern extremity, which was called Fort Strong. In 1830, some eight or ten of our most enterprising capitalists, purchased this island and commenced laying it out into streets and lots, with a view of making it an important part of the city.


Among the important improvements in that portion of the city termed East Boston, we enumerate I. The introduction of the Cochituate water by the city of Boston. II. The construction of the Grand Junction Rail- road, now near its completion. III. The construction of the sea-wall across the Basin, thus reclaiming a large quantity of low lands which were hitherto partially covered by the tide-watery. These lands consist of marsh and flats to the extent of about ninety-five acres, lying between Westwood Island and the Eastern Railroad.


The population of East Boston at this time amounts to 10,500, exclusive of a great number of mechanics and laborers who here find employment, but whose families reside elsewhere. The number of births during the year was 403, the number of families resident in East Boston on the 1st of April, 1851, was 2,032, the number of houses 1,291, of which 42 were erected in 1850. There was also erected a fine block of brick warehouses by the East Boston Wharf Company on Lewis street, at a cost of $ 35,000, sixteen wooden buildings for workshops and other purposes, and one church, (now being completed,) making a total of 1,615 buildings.


The religious advantages of East Boston are sufficiently varied and ex- tensive to suit all shades of opinion. Seven different denominations main- tain the preaching of the Gospel, viz : - Orthodox, Baptist, Methodist, Catholic, Universalist, Unitarian, and Episcopal. Five of these societies have commodious church edifices, the others worship in large and conven- ient halls; together, they furnish accommodations for seating 3,750 per- sons. The educational advantages of East Boston are most ample. There are two Grammar Schools with 20 teachers, and an attendance of 1,083 scholars; and 19 Primary Schools with 19 teachers and an attendance of about 1,042 scholars. Besides the above Public Schools, 2 Private Schools are sustained on the Island. We have also a Library Association, which was established in 1819, and which now has a library of over 700 volumes: Able and valuable lectures are given before this Association during the winter months.


A Benevolent Society for the relief of the destitute is also sustained by our citizens. A Savings Bank and a Fire Insurance Company are also lo- cated in East Boston.


The following summary of statistics will exhibit the amount of capital


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BOSTON IN DISTRICTS.


invested in manufacturing and mechanical business in East Boston, the number of hands employed, and the amount of annual products.


Business.


Capital.


No. of hands. 1,192


Annual product.


Manufacturing and Mechanics,


$ 1,858,000


3,769,916


Ship Building,


71,000


295


851.300


Lumber, Wood, Coal, &c.,


45,000


332,000


Teaming, Trucking, &c.,


32.000


275


140,000


Curing and Packing Fish,


49,000


23


138,500


$ 2,056,000


1,785


5,231,716


Steam power is used in 20 of the establishments mentioned in the table, and three others are making preparations to use it. At the different ship- yards there were built the past year 14 ships and barks, making an aggre- gate tonnage of 14,035 tons. During the first six months of 1851, the ships launched or now on the stocks, include 10,895 tons.


East Boston, with its superior location for commercial and manufactur- ing purposes, will doubtless soon double its present population. It has a water frontage of 17,000 feet on the deep water of the harbor as well adapted and better protected for commerce than wharves in the city prop- er. This has been fully proved by the late severe gale; while wharves in the other parts of the harbor and shipping received great damage, none, comparatively speaking, was sustained at the wharves at East Boston.


The Grand Junction Railroad with its large and commodious shipping depot is nearly completed. This road will unite East Boston with all the principal roads from the city, thus affording an unbroken chain of railroad communication from the deep water wharves in this section of the city through the great manufacturing districts of New England to the Canadas, the lakes, and the great West, greatly to the advantage of the commerce of Boston, by bringing to and taking from the ships and warehouses all merchandise intended for the interior, and products and manufactures des- tined for shipment, free from expense of transhipment.


The East Boston Company are now about closing contracts for building a block of fire-proof granite warehouses upon their depot grounds.


It is confidently expected that a large shipping business will soon be commenced at these depots, greatly to the advantage of East Boston.


The Grand Junction Railroad can extend its tracks whenever the public convenience shall require it, around 23,000 feet frontage of the deep water in Boston Harbor, the whole front of Chelsea and Eust Boston, from the free bridge in Chelsea Creek to Jeffries Point.


The great railroad system of New England, radiating from Boston in all directions, is nearly completed. There are now finished and in oper- ation, three great lines of road from Boston to the Canadas and Great


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BOSTON IN DISTRICTS.


West, and two other lines are partially finished. The lines completed and in operation are the Western, the Southern, and the Northern routes, through New Hampshire and Vermont. The lines partially completed, are the Passumpsic and Troy. When all these five great lines are in full oper- ation, reaching the Canadas and Great West at different points, Boston will realize the full benefit of her magnificent enterprise and enormous expen- ditures in perfecting this great work, which must prove so advantageous to both her local and commercial business. The eligibility of her location as a shipping port for the Canadas, and an export city for the West, will be seen by the following statement of distances, as compared with New York.


To Boston.


To New York.


From Liverpool, via Halifax


2,876 miles.


3,093 miles.


¥


direct


2,856 “


3,073


From Halifax


368


580


From Montreal


344


398


The difference between Liverpool and Montreal, in favor of Boston over New York, is 271 miles.


The import and export business of the lake harbors in 1851, may be set down as equal to $ 200,000,000, exclusive of the trade of the Canadas. Col- onel Abert of the United States Topographical Engineers Corps estimates the annual increase of the lake business at 174 per cent .; at that rate the business will double in less than every six years.


The aggregate of exports from Canada West in 1848, was $ 10,000,000, and the late Secretary Walker, says the trade with the Canadas, under free trade regulations, would amount to $ 40,000,000, annually.




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