USA > Massachusetts > Suffolk County > Boston > Sketches of Boston, past and present, and of some places in its vicinity > Part 30
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JOCELYN K PURCELL.SCN.Y
GORE HALL.
This edifice was begun in 1837, and completed in 1839-40, at a cost of $ 73,512.23; and the books were safely removed, and deposited therein, in the summer of 1841. The building presents a very pure specimen of the Gothic style of the fourteenth century in its form and proportions, while the hard sienite or Quincy granite, of which it is constructed, made it necessary to omit the elaborate ornaments with which this style is usually wrought. The towers, buttresses, drip-stones, and all the parts which form projections, or the sides of openings, are, however, finished by smooth, hammered faces ; while the walls are rough, but laid in regu- lar courses. In its plan, the building forms a Latin cross ; the length of the body being 140 feet, and that of the transepts 81} feet. The principal fronts are south and north ; with octagonal towers rising from the ground, on each side of the principal entrances, to the height of 83 feet. These four towers are connected only with the walls of the vestibules ; and in the form and position of these, as well as in the proportions of the body of
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CAMBRIDGE.
the building, exclusive of the transepts, the design of the exterior was taken from King's College Chapel, at Cambridge, England.
On entering the interior of Gore Hall, we are presented with two ranges of columns, ten in each range, which rise from the floor to the ceiling. This open space resembles the nave of a small cathedral, being 112 feet long and 35 feet high. The ceiling is formed of groined vaults, ornament. ed by ribs rising from the columns and intersecting each other in various points. The appearance of the whole is imposing ; hardly surpassed, in effect, by any room in this country. The books are placed in the alcoves, which are formed by partitions running from the columnns to the walls of the building, somewhat in the form of the chapels in the aisles of many of the Catholic churches. The partitions, which form the alcoves, rise from the floor to the ceiling, 35 feet, and this space is divided by a gallery, which is formed over the whole space outside of the columns, at the height of 12} feet from the floor. The gallery floor is supported entirely by bars of wrought iron, passing from one partition to another, across the alcoves. The side of this gallery, between the columns, is guarded by a light iron bal- ustrade ; the whole, therefore, intercepting in no essential degree the view of the ceiling, or any part of the interior, from the floor. The ascent to the gallery is made by light staircases placed outside of the columns, and there are narrow openings through the partitions, above the gallery, be- hind each column, to give a passage from one alcove to another. The low. er part of the west transept is formed into a convenient room for the libra- rian, while above the gallery it forms a large alcove open to the body of the ¡building. The heads of the windows are equilateral arches, and the mul. lions and tracery are copied from buildings of the age to which the design of this belongs. Ground glass has been used in all the windows, though it is to be hoped that, hereafter, its place may be supplied, at least in the windows of the principal fronts, by paintings.
In the construction of this edifice, it was determined, at the outset, to usc every precaution which the funds of the College would allow, to guard the library from destruction by fire. In every part of the structure, there- fore, wood has been rejected, where its place could be supplied without a very great increase of cost in the construction, or inconvenience of some kind in the use, by stone, brick, or iron. No timber is used in the main floor, which is formed by brick vaults, filled to a level upon the spandrels, and covered by boards. This covering being thought necessary to guard against the cold and dampness of the great mass of masonry which consti- tutes the supporting vaults. The roof contains no wood whatever, except the boards or laths to which the slate are fastened. The place of rafters is supplied, throughout, by trusses made of light bars of wrought iron, which are supported by the walls and by iron purlins ranged through the building upon the tops of the Gothic columns which rise through the ceiling for this purpose. The thrust of these trusses is prevented by iron rods, which
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LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY.
take the place of the tie-beams of wooden roofs. The weight of the iron of this roof is not more than half as great as would be required if it were formed of timber ; while, from calculation and experiments made with some of the trusses, it is believed that it would sustain a load, uniformly distributed over it, equal to that of a body of men standing close to each other and covering a space as great as that inclosed by the building.
As none of the other halls of the University present any claims to excel- lence in architecture, the attention of strangers is naturally directed to Gore Hall, as the principal ornament of the College Square.
THE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY is at present divided into four branches, viz. Theological, Medical, Law, and Public ; which last, beside books in all other departments of learning, embraces also an extensive collection of works on Theology, Medicine, and Law.
The Theological Library is in Divinity Hall; and persons entitled to its privileges must be connected with the Theological School. The Medical Library is in the Medical College, in Boston, being placed there for the convenience of students attending the Medical Lectures. The Law Libra- ry is in Dane Hall. It is designed for the use of the officers and students of the Law Department. The Public, or College Library, as it is familiarly called, is kept in Gore Hall. This is very much larger than the others, and is rapidly increasing. It is for the common use of the whole Univer- sity, in this respect differing from the other branches of the University Library. The whole number of books is about 59,000. Of these, about 2,500 are duplicates, and 1.000 belong to the " Boylston Medical Library," which is immediately connected with it, and is designed for the special use of the Professors and students in the Medical School, and also for those members of the Massachusetts Medical Society resident within ten miles of the University.
The whole number of books in the Libraries of the University is esti- mated as follows : -
Public Library
about
59,000
Medical
1,200
Law
14,000
Theological Library
3,000
Society Libraries of the Students
12,000
Total
about 89,200
The PUBLIC LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY is open to the public, under certain regulations and restrictions ; and its privileges are also granted to persons, hereafter specified, who are not connected with the University. Beside many of the most rare and costly printed books, it contains a num- ber of valuable ancient manuscripts ; with a few Oriental specimens, of great beauty. Here are also manuscript works of different learned men of
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modern times; a great part of which, however, have been printed. It is hoped that it will hereafter be an object with the friends of learning and of the University, to collect and deposit in the library, not only ancient man- uscripts, but the papers of modern scholars, and especially of distinguished sons of the University.
All donations of books, on the same subject, to the amount of $ 1,000, or upwards, are kept together in one place in the Library. In all cases when books are given, or money for the purchase of books, the names of the donors are written in the volumes thus given or purchased, and are also recorded in a book kept for that purpose ; and the names of the donors of books to the amount of $ 1,000, or upwards, (as also the names of do- nors which were displayed in the old Library, before the removal to Gore Hall,) are placed over or in the Alcoves containing such books, or in some other conspicuous place in the Library, - generally on the face of the gal. lery, below the balustrade.
No person, except the Librarian and Assistants, is allowed to go into any of the Alcoves of the General Library, or take any book from the shelves therein. without special permission ; the books most suitable for the use of the Undergraduates being separated from the rest, and kept in the Li- brarian's room, where they are accessible to the students, at all times, (during Library hours,) and without restriction. All persons, while in the Library, are expected to remain uncovered, and to refrain from loud con- versation, or other improprieties of speech and deportment.
The following persons, only, have a right to borrow books from the Li- brary :- The members of the Corporation and of the permanent Board of Overseers; the Governor, Lieutenant-Governor, President of the Senate, Speaker of the House of Representatives, and the Secretary of the Com- monwealth ; the Officers of Instruction and Government in the University, and the Steward ; Resident Graduates, and Resident Professional Students, giving bonds, with the consent of the Faculty ; Undergraduates of the College; the members of the Council, Senate, and House of Representa- tives, during the session of the General Court, on application made by a written order of the Secretary of the Commonwealth, the President of the Senate, or the Speaker of the House; the members of the Examining Committees of the University, during the year for which they hold their appointment ; former Officers of Instruction and Government, residing in Cambridge ; benefactors to the Library to the amount of $ 40, while resi- dent in Cambridge, and benefactors to the Library, residing in any other town of this Commonwealth, who have made a donation to the amount of $ 200, on application to the Corporation, and on such conditions as may by them be required; regularly ordained Clergymen, of all denominations. who have been educated at any public College or University, or who have received a degree at this University, living within ten miles of the Libra- ry, upon the same terms as the Overseers; and other Clergymen, within
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the same distance, not coming under the foregoing description, upon appli- cation to the President, and at the discretion of the President or Corpora- tion. Persons not inhabitants of Cambridge, but having a temporary residence therein, for the purpose of study, may borrow books from the Library with permission of the President, according to the prescribed con- ditions and regulations, application being made in writing to the Libra- rian ; and the Corporation may, for special reasons, grant the privilege of the Library to other persons than the foregoing.
In Term-time the Library is open on the first four secular days of the week, from 9 A. M. till 1 P. M., and from 2 till 4 P. M. ; and on Fridays, from 9 A. M. till 1 P. M. ; excepting the first Friday of each Term, Christ- mas-day, the days of Public Fast and Thanksgiving, and the Fridays follow- ing them, the Fourth of July, and the days of public Exhibitions and the Dudleian Lecture, during the exercises. In the Vacations the Library is open every Monday, from 9 A. M. till 1 P. M. All persons who wish to have access to the Library, or to bring their friends to see it, are expected to make their visits on the days and within the hours above named.
CAMBRIDGE is pleasantly situated, in a plain, about three miles west from Boston. It is bounded on the northeast, north, and west by Somer- ville, West Cambridge, and Watertown, and on the south and east by Charles River, which separates it from Brighton and Boston. From the first settlement of the country, it has ever been a place of importance, and so intimately connected with Boston in all the social, political, and intellec- tual relations, that, but for municipal distinctions, it might almost be con- sidered an integral part of the metropolis. Within its ancient limits, - probably never very exactly defined, - was enibraced a large extent of territory, comprehending the present towns of Lexington, West Cam- bridge, Newton, and Brighton, together with the greater part of Billerica, and watered by the Concord, Shawsliin, and Charles Rivers. Long since shorn of these fair proportions, nature and accident divided what remained of her original domain into three sections, still familiarly known as Old Cambridge, Cambridgeport, and East Cambridge. Of late years a dispo- sition to sunder even this small remnant, and to erect therefrom two dis- tinct corporations, was frequently manifested in at least one of the sec- tions. To prevent all further agitation of this subject, (which was a constant source of uneasiness in many quarters, and which had, at length, in 1841 -45, assumed an active form,) and effectually to preclude all possi- bility of such a separation, an Act of the Legislature was obtained, Marchi 17, 1816, permanently uniting the three sections under one charter, with the corporate privileges of a city. The charter was accepted by the in- habitants, in town-meeting assembled, by a vote of 645 yeas to 224 nays ; the first election of city officers took place in April ; and the city govern- ment was duly organized upon the 4th of May following.
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CAMBRIDGE.
The CITY is divided into three wards, so bounded as to conform to the usual and long familiar design'uions of the three principal villages. WARD ONE, or Old Cambridge, embraces the original settlement, and extends westerly and northerly to the towns of Watertown, West Cambridge, and Somerville. A ridge of higher land separates it from Ward Two, on the east ; while Charles River forms a natural boundary on the south. The Fitchburg Railway crosses its northerly section, the Watertown and Lex- ington Branches traverse its western frontier, and the Harvard Branch sweeps boldly in to its very centre. Near the Fitchburg station is the suf- ficiently notorious " Market Hotel," better known as " Porter's," (where a Cattle Market is held every Wednesday,) not very far removed from which is that disgrace to the city, not to say humanity, the Race-course. In this ward are five Meeting-houses and Churches, and three school- houses ; also the new and elegant Alms-house ; together with most of the objects of interest for a stranger, - the Washington Elm, and the elegant residence of Professor Longfellow, formerly Washington's Head quarters, the various buildings and grounds of the University, the State Arsenal, Fresh Pond, the entrance to. Mount Auburn Cemetery, &c., &c.
WARD Two occupies an extensive plain, bounded on the south and east by Charles River, on the north by Somerville and the marshes which sep- arate it from Ward Three, and on the west by the ridge of higher land be- fore mentioned, a portion of which is known by the name of Dana Hill. Here are the City Hall and the several public offices for the transaction of municipal affairs, eight places of public worship, seven school-houses, to- gether with the City High School, the new Atheneum, (that is to be,) ex- tensive manufactories of various kinds, and several elegant private resi- dences.
WARD THREE, known as Lechmere Point and East Cambridge, is a bluff, separated from Boston and Charlestown by the waters of Charles River, and from Ward Two by extensive marshes and narrow creeks, the line of demarkation being the North and Broad .Canals. Although of re- cent growth, East Cambridge is a very busy and' flourishing place, and its progress within the last few years has been extremely rapid. It is the seat of the County Courts, (Cambridge being one of the shire-towns of Middle- sex County,) and is connected with Bostou by Craigie's Bridge and by the viaduct of the Boston and Lowell Railway. The chief manufactories of the city are located in this section, and are very numerous, extensive, and prosperous. Among the principal establishments may be mentioned the Glass works, so deservedly celebrated, the Soap and Candle, and Brush far- tories, and the Granite works. The soil in this part of the city being clayey, and peculiarly adapted to the purpose, large quantities of brick are annually made. In this ward are six places of worship, and five school-houses; also one of the Court-houses and Jails of Middlesex County, a House of Correction, and various County Offices. The Court.
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CAMBRIDGE.
house has of late been entirely remodelled at an expense of over $ 70,000. Two spacious wings have been erected, containing two of the best Court- rooms in the State, and the apartments occupied by the Registers of Deeds and Probate have been much enlarged and improved, and rendered fire- proof.
Notwithstanding its uniformly level surface, Cambridge is by no means deficient in pleasant scenery. It can boast, also, many elegant private res- idences, some handsome public buildings, good schools, flourishing church- es, and - a commodious Almshouse. These advantages, with its proxim- ity to Boston, and the readiness and ease of communication therewith, contribute much to the increase of its population, great numbers of mer- chants, professional men, and mechanics being induced to reside in Cam- bridge, while Boston is the sphere of their business operations.
THE CAMBRIDGE AND BOSTON OMNIBUSES, (Main Street Line,) leave Brattle Street, Boston, for Harvard Square, (the Colleges,) Cambridge, ev- ery fifteen minutes, from one quarter before 8 o'clock, A. M. to 8 o'clock, P. M., and at St, 9, and 10 o'clock, evening. Leave Harvard Square, Cambridge, for Brattle Street, every fifteen minutes, from one quarter be- fore 7 o'clock, A. M., to 7 o'clock, P. M., and at 73, 8, and 9 o'clock, eve- ning.
The Harvard Street Line leaves Brattle Street, Boston, at 20 minutes past every hour, from 20 minutes past 8 o'clock, A. M., to 20 minutes past 7 o'clock, P. M. Leaves Harvard Square, Cambridge, at 20 minutes past every hour, from 20 minutes past 7 o'clock, A. M., to 20 minutes past 6 o'clock, P. M.
Fares. - From Boston to Old Cambridge, 8 tickets for $ 1 ; 44 for $ 5; Single fare 15 cents. From Boston to Mount Auburn gate, 6 tickets for $ 1 ; single fare 20 cents. Per quarter, in and out, once a day, $ 10.
SUNDAY OMNIBUS, Main Street Line, leaves Brattle Street, Boston, for Harvard Square, Cambridge, at 12}, 5, 8, and 9 o'clock, P. M. Leaves Harvard Square for Brattle street, at 9} o'clock, A. M., and at 2}, 6}, and S o'clock, P. M.
The Harvard Street Line leaves Brattle Street for Harvard Square, at 121, 5, and 8 o'clock, P. M. Leaves Harvard Square for Brattle Street, at 9 o'clock, A. M., and at 2} and 7 o'clock, P. M.
Fures. - From Boston to Old Cambridge, (Colleges,) 20 cents, or a ticket and 8 cents. From Boston to Cambridgeport, 15 cents, or a ticket and 7 cents.
FITCHBURG RAILWAY. - Trains leave Boston, for Cambridge (Colleges) at 7.40, 9.45, A. M .; 123, 2.10, 54, 74, 10}, P. M. Leave Cambridge for Boston, at 7, 8}, 10}, A. M .; 1.40, 3}, 6.40, 7.40, P. M.
Fare, 15 cents, on which a discount is made to those purchasing tickets.
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CAMBRIDGE.
The following table will show the increase in the population of Cam- bridge, from the year 1790 to the present time : --
1790. | 1800.
1810. | 1820. | 1830.
1840.
1845.
1850.
2,115
2,453
2,323
3,295 | 6,072 | 8,409 12,490
U. S. Census. 15,215
State Census. 14,852
Valuation of Estates and the number of Polls, with the Votes polled, in Cambridge, since 1810.
Year.
Polls.
Valuation.
Votes
1810
2,262
7,585,950
1,398
18-11
2,377
7,310,076
1,247
1842
2,619
7,018,716
1,372
1813
2,496
7,137,441
1,467
1814
3,060
7,852,149
1,767
1845
3,151
8,600,366
1,266
1816
3,224
9,312,4SI
1,311
IS47
3,387
9,506,529
1818
3,639
12,575,015
1819
3,720
10,667,272
1850
3,436
11,469,618
Value of Real and Personal Estate in Cambridge, as estimated by the Assessors, for the year 1850 : -
Real Estate in Ward I.,
$ 2,645,426
" Ward II.,
3,379,480
" Ward III.,
1,765,642
Total assessed value of Real Estate,
$ 7,790,548
Personal Estate in Ward I.,
$ 1,739,986
" Ward II.,
1,389,478
( " Ward III.,
549,606
Total assessed value of Personal Estate, . $ 3,679,070
Tax assessed in Ward I., $ 29,001.26; in Ward II., $ 34,658.42; in Ward TII., $ 17,534.05. Total amount, $81,193.73. Rate of taxation for 1850, $ 6.30 on $ 1,000.
Number of Polls in Ward I., 915; in Ward II., 1,538; in Ward III., 983. Total number of Polls, 3,436. Poll Tax, $1.50. Number of dwelling. houses in Cambridge, 2,372. Number of families, 2,859.
Two bridges connect Boston and Cambridge : - one from the foot of Lev- erett street, called Craigie's Bridge; the other, which is nearly seven eighths of a mile long, from the foot of Cambridge street, called West Bos- ton Bridge. The construction of these two bridges is similar; and both are furnished with lamps placed at regular intervals, which have a singu- larly pleasing effect on a dark evening. The rates of toll are the same on
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CAMBRIDGE.
both ; but passengers to and from Cambridge over Prison-point Bridge are not subject to toll.
West Boston Bridge was opened November 23, 1793. It stands on 180 piers, and is 2,758 feet in length, and 40 feet in width; abutment and causeway, 3,432 feet ; total length, 6,190 feet. The bridge is railed on each side, for foot passengers; the sides of the causeway are stoned, capstaned, and railed ; and on each side there is a canal about 30 feet wide. Revenue in 1834, $ 12,923.
Canal or Craigie's Bridge was incorporated February 27, 1807, and opened on Commencement-day, August 30, 1809. It extends from Bar- ton's Point, in Boston, to Lechmere Point, in Cambridge; and is 2,796 feet in length, and 40 feet in width. On the Cambridge side it is united to Charlestown by Prison-point Bridge, which is 1821 feet long and 35 feet broad. Net receipts in 1834, $ 3,173.
To the proprietors of West Boston Bridge, a toll was granted for seventy years from the opening of the bridge, which, with the Causeway, was es- timated to have cost $ 76,700. This term was subsequently extended to seventy years from the opening of Craigie's Bridge ; West Boston Bridge being charged with an annuity of £ 200, payable to Harvard College, and Craigie's being required to pay £ 100 per annum to West Boston during their joint existence. The community becoming impatient of the length of time which must elapse before these bridges would be free, a company was organized, in 1846, for the purpose of hastening that event; and hav- ing been incorporated by the Legislature, under the name of the Hancock Free Bridge Company, with power to negotiate for the purchase of the two bridges, and to adopt such measures as would conduce to the desired object, they succeeded in effecting a purchase, and on the Ist of July, 1816, obtained from the West Boston Bridge Corporation a transfer of all their rights and privileges. At present, tolls continue to be collected on both the bridges; but it is expected that in a few years, a sufficient sum will have been collected to defray the original cost, with interest, and to constitute a fund, the interest of which will keep them in repair for ever. They will then be opened to the public free of charge.
One of the first subjects which engaged the attention of the Massachu- setts Colonists was the selection of a suitable location for a fortified town, - one which would at once serve them as a place of refuge, in case of in vasion, and also as the metropolis of their new republic. At length, on the 28th of December, 1630, " after many consultations, they this day agree on a place on the northwest side of Charles River, about three miles west from Charlestown ; and all except Mr. Endicott and T. Sharp (the former living at Salem and the latter purposing to return to England) oblige them- selves to build houses there the following spring, and remove their ord- nance'and munition thither ; and first call the place NEWTOWN." Ac-
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cording to agreement, the Deputy-Governor, (Dudley,) Secretary Brad. street, and other principal men of the Colony, in the spring of 1631, entered upon the execution of their plan, with a view to its speedy com. pletion. The Governor set up the frame of a house where he first pitched his tent ; and the Deputy-Governor finished his house and removed his family. On some considerations, however, " which at first came not into their minds," the Governor, in the ensuing autumn, took down his frame, and removed it to Boston, with the intention of making that the place of his future abode ; greatly to the disappointment of the rest of the compa. ny, who were still desirous of building at " the New Town," and much to the displeasure of the worthy Deputy, who was "a principal founder of the town, being zealous to have it made the metropolis," and who could not readily forgive the Governor for what he considered a breach of faith.
Notwithstanding the partial failure of the original plan, various orders of the Court of Assistants show that " the New Town," still designed for the seat of government, was taken under legislative patronage. On the 14th of June, 1631, " Mr. John Masters having undertaken to make a passage from Charles River to the new town, twelve feet broad and seven deep, the Court promises him satisfaction " therefor ; and a tax was soon after levied on the several plantations to defray the expense. Two houses having been burnt down, in Boston, in the spring of this year, in consequence of the chimney of one of them taking fire, and communi- cating to the thatched roof; " for prevention thereof in our new town," observes the Deputy-Governor, "intended to be built this summer, we have ordered that no man there shall build his chimney with wood, nor cover his house with thatch." Neither was the design of a fortified town yet abandoned ; as is evident from an order of the Court, February 3, 1632, "that £ 60 be levied out of the several plantations towards making a palisado about the New Town " ; which resulted in the enclosure of about a thousand acres with a fosse and palisade, - doubtless at the suggestion of Dudley, who still continued to reside here. The place must have grown very rapidly during the first two years of its settlement ; for we find it de- scribed by a writer who returned from this country to England in 1633, as "one of the neatest and best compacted towns in New England, having many fair structures, with many handsome contrived streets." The town was laid out in squares, the streets intersecting each other at right angles. One square was reserved for the purpose of a market, and remains open to this day. It long retained the name of " Market Place," but it is now called Winthrop Square.
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