USA > Massachusetts > Essex County > Standard history of Essex county, Massachusetts, embracing a history of the county from its first settlement to the present time, with a history and description of its towns and cities. The Most historic county of America. > Part 139
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* Spelled Corwin at that time, but now spelled Curwin.
t These notes in reference to the first houses of Salem are taken from Mr. W. P Upham's contributions to the "Essex Institute Bulletin" in 1869.
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HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY, MASSACHUSETTS.
Taverns .- Early provision was made "of taverns or ordinaries." They who kept them were required to be licensed, and were not to suffer " any to be drunk," nor to tipple "after nine of the clock at night." In 1637 John Holgrave, at the earnest request of the town, "has undertaken to keepe an ordinary for the entertaynment of strangers." In 1645 Mrs. Catherine Clarke, having a family of chil- dren, is licensed for £10 per annum, if "she provide a fitt man, that is godly to manage the business." A house was erected for John Massey in 1661, and became noted as a tavern. It was sitnated at the Salem end of Beverly ferry, and was called "The old Ferry Tavern." It was demolished in 1819. The "Great Tavern " stood on the site of the present Stearns Building in 1727. It was known as " the great tavern with many peaks," and for a time as the Ship Tavern. It was here that the Social Library was formed, in 1760. The land was once owned by Hugh Peters. The Stearns Building was erected about 1791.
A tavern on or near the site of the first house of Gov. Endicott was also once called the " Ship Tavern " (1774). This was near the northern corner of Washington and Church streets. The veritable " Old Ship Tavern," noted of that name, was on the site of the present West Block, Essex Street. It was in later years the site of the Man- sion House. In this immediate vicinity,-Essex Street, between the present head of Central Street and St. Peter's Street,-stood many taverns : "Mr. Stacey's Tavern," " Mr. Pratt's Tavern," " Mr. Good- hue's Tavern," " Mr. Robinson's Tavern," " Benjamin Webb's Tavern." the "King's Arms Tavern." later, the " Sun Tavern." the "Essex Cof- fee House, the "Lafayette Coffee House," and the present " Essex House." The last three the same building, with different names, as above. The "King's Arms Tavern" was a building built in 1652, by William Browne, as a mansion. It was about 1768 that it was known as the "King's Arms Tavern," and, on the breaking ont of the Revo- lution, as the "Sun Tavern." It was taken down, in 1800, by William Gray, who built a brick house just cast of its site. The tavern was next kept in Mr. Gray's former residence, on the site of the present Bowker Block. In 1814 Mr. Gray's new house became a tavern, and was called the "Essex Coffee House." It became the " Lafayette Cof- fee House " when the Marquis de Lafayette visited Salem the last time and stopped there. It next became the " Essex House," and is thus known now. In 1774 the "Salem Coffee House " was kept in a building near the site of the present St. Peter's Church. "Beadle's Tavern" stood on Essex Street, nearly opposite the present junction of Pleasant Street.
Stage Companies .- The Salem and Boston Stage Company (a Salem institution) was incorporated in 1821,* and, up to the time of the ad- veut of the Eastern Railroad, in 1838, was a very successful concern, and was considered decidedly progressive. It was as well run and as well equipped as any line in the country, and was the first to intro- duce the "swing-rack and foot-board," and later, the steel-spring stages. Most of its coaches were built in its own shops in Salem, among the mechanics employed being Osgood Bradley, since the day of railroads a large and successful passenger-car builder in Worcester, and Joseph Smith and Daniel C. Manning, the present livery firm of Smith & Manning. On the occasion of the visit of President Jack- son to Salem, in 1833, Mr. Smith drove him to the old Mansion House, and the next day to Andover. Mr. Manning, an office-boy for the company, received the packages and letters brought in on the stage and delivered them about town, thus starting the express business in Essex County. He drove President Polk through the city on his visit to Salem in 1847. William II. Foster, the present cashier of the Asiatic National Bank, was one of the clerks of the company. On the gradual dissolution of the concern, several of the drivers of the old stage company became in some way connected with the railroad company, a business nearer akin than any other to their " profession."
Newspapers .- Salem followed closely behind Cambridge and Bos- ton in introducing the printing press, Samuel Hall, a native of Medford, opening an office here in April, 1768. In the following July he established a paper, the " Essex Gazette," to be issued on each Tuesday. The first number appeared Aug. 2d, and was a folio ten by sixteen inches. In May, 1775, Mr. Hall removed to Cambridge and published his paper there till 1781, when he returned to Salem and started the "Salem Gazette." This paper he published for a little more than four years, removing to Boston and publishing the " Massachusetts Gazette " there. This removal from Salem was on account of heavy taxes levied on advertisements, which sadly re- dneed his income.
* Previously the stage line had been run by the Mannings, Richard and his sons.
Before Mr. Hall's return to Salem three papers had risen and died,-the "Salem Gazette," the "Newbury and Newburyport Ad- vertiser," and the " Salein Gazette and General Advertiser." The present "Salem Gazette " was commenced Oct. 14, 1786, John Dabney and Thomas C. Cushing issuing the first number under the title of the "Salem Mercury." It assuincd the name of the "Salem Gazette" Jan. 5, 1790. The present "Gazette " is traced back in a direct line to Mr. Hall's first venture, and the " Gazette " of to- day bears, at the head of its column, the words : "Established, weekly, 1768 ; semi-weekly, 1796"; and its claim, as a continua- tion of Mr. Hall's paper, is founded upon the judgment of local antiquarians who were contemporary with Mr. Cushing. He had served his apprenticeship with Mr. Hall, and took his materials and revived the paper, after a break. in 1786. Mr. Foote served as an apprentice with Mr. Cushing,-so the line is traced down, con- necting the first issue with that of the present day. Mr. Dabney withdrew in 1789, leaving Mr. Cushing sole proprietor. In 1794 William Carlton assumed the publication, and, in 1797, transferred it back to Mr. Cushing. On account of ill-health, the latter with- drew from the paper, and his son, Caleb Cushing, succeeded him. He published the paper for six months with Ferdinand Andrews, who then took it alone. He sold one-half the establishment, in 1825, to Caleb Foote. Jan. 1, 1833, Mr Foote became sole pro- prietor, and is now the senior partner of the firm of Foote & Hfor- ton (N. A. Horton), who are the present publishers, the latter entering the firm in 1854. It is now published as a semi-weekly, on cach Tuesday and Friday morning. A weekly edition, the "Essex County Mercury," is issued on each Wednesday. This was started June 8, 1831.
The "Salem Register " was commenced May 12, 1800, as a semi- weekly. William Carlton was its publisher, and it was originally called the "Impartial Register," then the "Salem Register," the " Essex Register," and finally the "Salem Register " again. Mr. Carlton died July 24, 1805, and the paper was published for his widow, then " for the proprietors " for a while next by Haven Poole and Warwick Palfray, Jr. Mr. Poole died and the paper was continued by Mr. Palfray, and later by Mr. Palfray and Mr. John Chapman. On the death of Mr. Warwick Palfray, Jr., his son, Charles W., formed a partnership with Mr. Chapman. The latter died in 1873, and Mr. Eben N. Walton was admitted to the firm, which became Palfray & Walton. The " Register" is issued on each Monday and Thursday.
The " Salem Observer" was first issued Jan. 4, 1823, by William & Stephen B. Ives, as a weekly, appearing on each Monday evening. It was first published as the " Observer," next as the " Salem Observer," four years as the "Salem Literary and Commercial Observer," and last and now as the "Salem Observer" again. Its first two editors were B. Lynde Oliver, and Joseph G. Waters. George W. Pease became a partner in 1837, and in 1839 Mr. Stephen B. Ives withdrew, leaving the firm, Ives & Pease. William Ives with- drew a few years ago, and Horace S. Traill became a partner. The " Observer " is now published by Pease, Traill & Fielden, Mr. Fran- eis A. Fielden having been admitted within three or four years. It is issued on Saturday mornings. Mr. Gilbert L. Streeter is its editor. Mr. Streeter wrote, in 1856, " an account of the newspapers and periodicals published in Salem," up to that year, and it contains much detailed information. The pamphlet is on file at the Essex Institute.
The " Salem Post " is the outgrowth of a free advertising sheet, pub- lished monthly by Charles H. Webber. On Jan. 1, 1873, it became a weekly, published by Mr. Webber, and F. B. Browning, and was styled the " Salem City Post." For a time the publishing firm was Webber Bros., Mr. Putnam Webber being the junior partner. The " Post " is issued each Wednesday morning.
These four are the only newspapers now published in Salem, and, though neither of them is a daily, some one is issued on each morning of the week, except Sunday.
Many papers have, been born in Salem only to die, most of them for want of support. Among them the " Salem Advertiser," published from 1832 to 1849 ; the "Salem Daily Chronicle," from March, 1848, to May 22, 1848; "Essex County Freeman," from Aug. 1, 1849, to June 14, 1854; the " Union Democrat." from July 31, 1852, to Oet. 6. 1852; the "People's Advocate," from Oet. 1854, to -; the " Salem Daily Journal," from July 24, 1854, to Nov. 24, 1855; the " Essex Statesman," from 1863 to 1868. These were the most impor- tant. A host have been published during exciting political contests, for advertising purposes, or with a hope that they might gain a foot-
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hold in the community ; but only the "Gazette," " Mercury," " Reg- ister," " Observer," and "Post," stand to-day.
Telegraph and Telephone. - The first conimunication between Salem and Boston by the magnetic telegraph was a dispatch sent by the mayor of the former city to the mayor of the latter, Dec. 23, 1847. The first public exhibition of the telephone was made at Lyceum IIall, on the 16th of February, 1876, under the supervision of the inventor, A. Graham Bell. A despatch of a quarter of a column was sent by tele- phone the same evening to the " Boston Daily Globe," by Henry M. Batchelder, then connected with that paper. But three errors in re- ceiving it were made, and it was the first despatch sent by telephone to a newspaper.
Salem Neck, like all other lands in this vicinity, was originally held by the commoners, - the proprietors of lands lying in common and undivided. In 1714 the commoners granted the Neck lands and Winter Island, and from that date to 1728, the Neck was probably used for pasturage, and Winter Island for "the fishery"; that is, for drying fish. Who collected the rents cannot be determined ; but, according to the vote of the commoners, the rents were to be paid into the town treasury. In 1729 the town let the lands on Winter Island to five shoremen. In 1735 it was voted to let so much as was suffi- cient to the shoremen, the remainder as a public pasture, and from 1738, up to 1824, the island was let for pasture lands. In March, 1756, the land on which the powder-house now stands, was let to Richard Derby for one shilling a year, and he built a wharf and ware- house. In 1859 the city authorities received $152 rent from Oliver M. Whipple (who had purchased the title of the Derby family ) for the unexpired term of one thousand years. It is probable that, prior to 1714, the town owned a portion of the Neck, and the commoners the balance. In 1765 the town treasurer was authorized to let Winter Island and the Neck together, for pasture lands. In 1679 there were so many people at Winter Island that John Clifford was licensed to keep a victualling house for their convenience. " This may have been," says Felt, " the origin of the famed ' Blue Anchor Tavern.'"
The Neck has a long story in connection with the coast defences of the Colony and Commonwealth. Block-houses, stockades, and earth- works, almost innumerable, have been built there on various threaten- ing occasions, ever since the first settlement. Their history is difficult to trace ; but the notes which follow pertain to the most important defences. A ship which arrived in 1629 brought five cannon ; but these were probably for the Darby Fort on the Marblehead shore, at Naugus Head, built about that year, as near as can be decided from the records.
A fort on the Salem shore ( Winter Island) was commenced in 1643. Felt says that in 1758 the Neck had " long been guarded " by two block-houses at the gate, and by another at Watch-house Point, familiarly called Hospital Point. Besides these defences, it had a fort on its heights, called "new," to distinguish it from the old one on Winter Island. In 1690, the Winter Island fort was repaired, and breastworks thrown up on the heights of the Neck. In 1699 the Winter Island fort was called Fort William, in honor of the king, and in 1704, Fort Ann, in honor of the queen. A new fort was built in 1742, on the heights of the Neck, the location fortified in 1690. In 1775, Fort Lee was built on the site of the fort of 1742. In 1787, there were three forts, known as William, Lee, and Juniper. In 1794, Fort William was ceded to the United States. In 1799, the name of Fort William was changed to Fort Pickering, by order of the secretary of war. In 1814, these forts were rebuilt, and Forts Pick- ering and Lee again in 1863, at the breaking out of the civil war. Both are now in a dilapidated condition.
The noted frigate " Essex," thirty-two guns, was built on the south side of Winter Island in 1799, and launched, September 30 of that year, from a spot not far from the lighthouse.
Old Mills .- Capt. William Trask, one of the original planters, erected the first mill in New England. It was built on a small brook, running into the North River, near the Eastern Railroad station in Peabody. The first machinery was a " mortar mill" for pounding corn. In 1692 it was rebuilt for a fulling mill. In 1640 Capt. Trask obtained per- mission, and, some years later, erected a mill a half mile further down the North River, and in a short time moved it another half mile down stream. This became known as Frye's Mill, being under the direc- tion, the latter part of the century, of William Frye, father and son. In June, 1633, permission was grauted to Walter Price, Henry Bar- tholomew, John Gardner, and Samuel Garduer, to build a mill on the South River, and it was completed in 1664. It was on the site of the grist-mill removed a few years ago by the Eastern Railroad, to build the engine-house, on Mill Street.
Fire Clubs. - Associations known as "fire clubs" have existed in Salem since 1744. Each member was required to have two substan- tial leather buckets, and they were usually painted with the name and device of the club. Many of these buckets may still be found hang- ing in the front or rear hall-ways of the old houses of Salem, usu- ally under the stairs or on some projection or cornice. These buckets were kept thus handy, and when an alarm of fire was given, the owner was supposed to take his buckets and repair to the scene of the fire, to assist in passing water from the cisterns to the tubs of the engines, or to throw it on to the fire directly. This of course was before the Each member of the clubs was introduction of the suction-hose.
also provided with a bag, in which to take property from buildings, and a bed-key to take down the old-fashioned bedsteads. Most of the clubs had ladders at convenient places about the town. In later years, these organizations having been mainly surpassed in usefulness by the introduction of improved fire apparatus, they have been main- tained as social clubs, an annual meeting and supper being held, at which officers were chosen and reminiscences of former days related. The only clubs now in existence are the Active, the Enterprise, the Naumkeag, and Alert. The following clubs, with their dates of organ- ization, were the most important of those that have existed in Salem : Old Fire Club, 1744; Union, 1770; Social, 1774; Number Five, 1783; Social (2), 1793; Amity, 1796; Relief, 1803; Washington, 1803; Adroit, 1806; Active, 1806; Hamilton, 1809 ; Enterprise, 1810; Union and Amity, 1812; Volant, 1816; Adroit (2), 1831; Naumkeag, 1832; Boston Street, Sons of Temperance, Alert Social, Social (3).
These were active and useful organizations in their day. Some of them lived but a few months or years, while a few, enumerated above, have come down to the present time.
The Post-Office. - The methods employed in carrying and dis- tributing the mails have changed with the needs of the country, begin- ning in 1639, when the General Court ordered that all letters " from beyond the seas" should be deposited with Richard Fairbanks, of Boston, who was to receive one penny each for their delivery. In 1693 the postage from Salem to Boston was fourpence. Edward Nor- ris was postmaster at Salem in 1768, and re-appointed by the Provin- cial Congress May 13, 1775. The post-office was then in a shop on Washington Street. In 1779 Mascoll Williams succeeded Mr. Norris, and the office was nearly opposite Mechanic Hall, on Essex Street. By 1792 there was a daily mail to Boston, transported by stage. The Marblehead mail was carried on foot, by a Mr. Fabens, who had lost one arm. John Dabney succeeded Mr. Williams, and after Aug. 21, 1792, kept the office at the corner of Essex and Washington streets. He removed in 1800 to the corner of Essex and Central streets, and afterwards to a new building at the foot of Central Street, called Con- cert Square. His last location was on the premises on Essex Street occupied by Bowker Place. Joseph E. Sprague succeeded Mr. Dab- ney in 1816. He moved the office to Franklin Building, to the corner of Court and Essex streets in 1817, to the corner of Essex and St. Peter's streets in 1818, and there it remained while he continued in office. Eben Putnam succeeded him in 1829, and the office remained for a while in the last-named location, and was then removed to the East India Marine Hall Building, where it continued to be kept until Feb. 24. 1855, when it was removed to its present location in the Asiatic Building. Charles W. Woodbury succeeded Mr. Putnam as postmaster, Mar. 1, 1840, and held the office until Caleb Foote was appointed, in May, 1841. Benjamin F. Browne succeeded Mr. Foote in August, 1844, and was himself succeeded by George Russell in February, 1849. George B. Loring succeeded Mr. Russell in June, 1853, and was followed by Joseph S. Perkins in 1858. John Ryan was appointed in 1860, and continued in office until the appoint- ment of John Chapman in 1861. Mr. Chapman was succeeded by William W. Lander in 1867, and upon his removal from office, in 1869, George H. Pierson was appointed, and is the present postmas- ter of Salem.
Military Companies. - From the days of the first settlement, Salem has maintained organized bodies of soldiery. The earliest mention in the old records is only brief, but enough is found to prove that some organization existed. A Salem company saw service against the Dutch in Acadia at the capture of St. John and Port Royal. In 1675 five Salem men were killed in an engagement with the Indians at Bloody Brook ; and thirty-one Salem men were impressed for an expedition against the Narragansetts. During this campaign two Salem men were killed, and four wounded. Salem men were engaged in a battle with the Indians at Cocheco, in 1676. Iu 1707, "our soldiers, troop and foot," went to Haverhill to meet the French and Indians ; two were
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killed and two wounded. Salem sent a quota in the Port Royal expe- dition, in 1710; and, in 1711, "twenty men of Col. Hathorn's Regi- ment " sailed in the English fleet for Canada. In 1745, a company of fifty was raised for the expedition against Louisburg. Timothy Pick- ering was chosen colonel of the 1st Regiment, Feb. 13, 1775, and his regiment marched to Lexington, April 19, 1775, but arrived too late to take part in the skirmish.
In April, 1776, the first uniformed infantry company appears under Capt. Joseph Sprague and Lieut. Joseph Hiller. A portion of Col. Pickering's regiment was at Bunker Hill, but does not appear to have fought there as an organization, though Lieut. Benjamin West is reported killed. The command fought through the war.
The present Seeond Corps of Cadets was organized July 10, 1786, with Stephen Abbott as its first commander. The uniform was red and white, and these colors have always been retained. The Cadets furnished a large proportion of the nucleus of the 24th Massachu- setts Regiment in the civil war, and was represented largely in the 2d and 19th Regiments and 1st Heavy Artillery. The corps is now a battalion of two companies, under Lieut. Col. Samuel Dalton.
In 1786 there was a volunteer company in Ward IV. The Salem Artillery made its first parade May 23, 1787, and continued with vary- ing fortunes till the opening of the Rebellion, when it was merged with the 4th Massachusetts Battery. In 1798 a company of "exempts " was formed.
The present Salem Light Infantry' was formed July 4, 1805, Capt. John Saunders commanding. It adopted the French Zouave drill at the opening of the Rebellion. It served in one of the "three months" regiments ; in the "nine months " and " 100 days" campaigns ; fur- nished full companies in the 8th, 23d, and 50th regiments; and was represented in the 32d, 35th, and other Massachusetts organizations. The company is now attached to the 8th Regiment, and is under Capt. Jonathan Osborne.
The present Salem Mechanie Light Infantry paraded for the first time July 4, 1807, under Capt. Perley Putnam. It served in the 5th Regiment during the late war, as a "three months" organization. Its members afterwards saw service in several different regiments. The Essex Hussars existed for a short time, about 1808. In 1811 two new companies were organized, making eight in Salem at that time. The Essex Guards first paraded July 4, 1814, and became extinct at the close of the War of 1812. The Salem City Guards made their first parade May 31, 1847. This organization was attached to the 5th Regiment at the opening of the civil war. It disbanded before the close of the war.
Salem has two excellent brass bands, the " Salem " and the "Cadet," the latter attached to the Second Corps of Cadets. In its early days the Salem Band was led by P. S. Gilmore.
Halls. - Salem is very well provided with halls suited for theatri- cal performanees, concerts, dancing parties, and all description of public assemblies. Mechanic Hall is the largest and finest in the city. It is on the west corner of Essex and Crombie streets. It was built in 1839 by the Mechanic Hall Corporation, and in 1870 was en- larged and entirely remodelled. Its seating capacity is 1,093, and the stage is well adapted and furnished with good scenery for theatrical purposes. The interior of the hall is neat and beautiful, and its fur- nishings are in the most approved modern design. A large organ, blown by water-power, was contributed to the hall by the subscrip- tion of a few citizens. Lyceum Hall, on Church Street, was built in 1830, and is the property of the Salem Lyceum. The hall was opened Jan. 19, 1831. The hall is semi-circular, amphitheatre form, and is well adapted for lectures. It seats about six hundred. Hamilton Hall was built about 1810 by a company of gentlemen who intended it for assemblies, a use to which it has always been largely devoted. Many important events have been commemorated within its walls, including the fourth and fifth half centuries of the landing of Gov. Endicott. The hall has always been kept in excellent repair, and has been refitted within a half dozen years, and is to-day as ever a favorite gathering place for dancing and other parties. Central Hall, on Central Street, was built in 1869, is well adapted for small parties and entertainments. It was for a number of years leased by Post 34, Grand Army. Each of the military companies occupies an armory sufficiently large for all gatherings of its own, and they are frequently let for public assemblies or daneing parties. The Young Men's Catholie Temperance Society has a good-sized hall, called No- nantum Hall, on Warren Street ; and the Grand Army Post occupies a hall in Essex Block, St. Peter's Street. The Odd Fellows have nice halls in the Asiatic Building, Washington Street, and the Ancient Order of Hibernians in the Phoenix Block, Lafayette Street.
There has been no regular theatre in Salem since 1832, when the old Salem Theatre building on Crombie Street was sold to the Crombie Street Church Society. This building was erected for thea- trieal purposes in 1828, and was known as the Salem Theatre. Aaron J. Phillips was its manager and lessee. The first play performed there was the comedy, " Wives as They Were." The theatre was run to a losing business four years, and was then sold as above mentioned.
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