USA > Massachusetts > Essex County > Standard history of Essex county, Massachusetts, embracing a history of the county from its first settlement to the present time, with a history and description of its towns and cities. The Most historic county of America. > Part 98
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The committee organized, and appointed a snb-committee, consist- ing of Messrs. Dodge and Gilbert, to visit various public buildings ; and these gentlemen finally submitted a " ground plan " for the struct- ure, which was adopted by the committee. Sketches of the proposed building, based on the plan adopted, were solicited from different architects ; and, three different sketches having been submitted, the committee finally made a contract with Lord & Fuller, of Boston, to make all the necessary plans and specifications.
The site of the structure having been established, work on the foundations was commenced and continned without interruption.
The opponents of the "Common" as a site for the building were not idle, however, and now petitioned the supreme court, through eminent legal connsel, for a "preliminary injunction." The committee employed the Hon. Samuel Hoar as counsel to defend the action of the town, and, after numerous delays, the hearing was held, and the prayer of the petitioners refused.
Contracts were now made, and the work proceeded rapidly ; and on the 26th of July, 1876, the corner-stone was laid, with appropriate ceremonies. Before the next annual town-meeting it was ascertained that the committee would complete the work assigned to them within the appropriation made, and, at the adjourned annual meeting for 1877, the sum of $20,000 was appropriated to establish and maintain a public reading-room and library, to be called " The Abbot Library." The balance of the fund was directed to be reserved, and the interest applied to the necessary expenses of the building.
At a subsequent meeting, five "Trustees of the Abbot Library " were chosen, by ballot, who, with the chairman of the board of selectmen, were constituted a board of trustees to manage the read- ing-room and library.
On the 25th of December, 1877 (Christmas Day), the reading-room was opened, and on the 17th of April, 1878, the library was opened to the public, then containing about 3,000 volumes.
The building committee surrendered the charge of the structure to the selectmen on the 8th of December, 1877. Nine days after, under the direction of a special committee appointed by the town, the ball
HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY, MASSACHUSETTS.
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was publiely dedicated ; when the Hon. Edward Avery, of Braintree, a native of Marblehead, delivered an eloquent and instructive address.
As the building neared completion, gentlemen of means, native residents and non-residents of the town, exhibited a noble publie spirit, by presenting various gifts of value, for the use or 'adornment of the structure. The Hon. James J. H. Gregory presented the clock and bell in the tower, and a valuable oil painting for the reading-room ; Henry F. Pitman, Esq., a large pianoforte ; Thomas Appleton, Esq., a fine oil painting for the reading-room ; Joel Goldthwait, Esq., of Boston, a valuable carpet for the stage ; Nathaniel Brimblecom, Esq., of Boston, a large hall clock ; and William F. Joy, Esq., of Boston, a valuable book-case.
By a recent vote of the town, a large portrait of Benjamin Abbot, by one of the most distinguished artists of New England, has been ordered, and marble tablets, with appropriate inscriptions, have been placed in conspicuous places in the building.
This noble and stately structure, occupying one of the most com- manding sites in Marblehead, stands as a splendid monument to the memory of Benjamin Abbot; and while the inhabitants remember his thoughtful generosity with pride and gratitude, they are no less grate- ful for the faithful services of Simcon Dodge and Moses Gilbert, the sub-committee of the building committee, who, without fee or reward, gave their time and personal attention to the work, and executed the important trusts committed to their charge with a zeal, courage, and fidelity rare in publie servants.
Mention has been made of the earlier church organizations, and their places of worship.
The First Congregational Church, after having occupied the struct- ure at the foot of Washington Street for more than a century, built a stone church, in 1824, which is now used by the society for its religious meetings.
The "Second Congregational Church" (now Unitarian) occupied the first edifice built by the parish till 1833, when it was demolished, and the building now used by the society was erected.
The " Episcopal Church " remains the same as when built, in 1714, with a few nnimportant alterations, and is consequently one of the oldest church buildings in New England.
During the year 1790, the Rev. Jesse Lee, of Virginia, mentioned as " the Apostle of Methodism in New England," visited Marblehead, and, in the " old Bowler Honse," on Lee Street, organized a Methodist church, with seven members. Soon after, a small, plain church edi- fice, without tower or ornament, was erceted on a small hill near Pleasant Street, which was designated for many years as " the Metho- dist rocks." This building was occupied by the society till 1832, when the church now occupied by the people of this faith was erected, on Summer Street. The old building was changed into a large dwelling-house, one-half of which is owned by the parish, and is occupied as the church .parsonage.
The Baptist denomination had gained a few members, from year to year, till twenty-one residents of Marblehead had united with one of the Baptist churches in Salem. In 1811 these, having received letters of dismission from the church in Salem, were organized as the "First Baptist Church of Marblehead "; and a plain building, without a tower, was erected as a place of worship, on Watson Street. This was occupied by the society till 1832, or the year after, when a new church edifice was ereeted on Pleasant Strect. This building was destroyed by fire in 1867 ; but before the year had closed a new church was ereeted on the same site, and is now occupied by the so- ciety. The first church building on Watson Street was sold soon after it was vacated as a place for religious worship, and, being changed into a dwelling-house, is now occupied for that purpose.
In 1836, a few " Universalists " formed a society for religious wor- ship, and held meetings for several months in a small hall on the cor- ner of Washington and Darling streets. The society increased rapidly, and a lot having been purchased, on the corner of Pleasant and Watson streets, a church edifice was built, and dedicated in the early part of 1837. During the year 1870, repairs on the building being necessary, it was raised one story, securing a large and commo- dious vestry, and other important improvements.
For many years the few Catholies in Marblehead worshipped with the people of their faith in Salem ; but in 1857, their numbers having largely increased, a small church was erected on the corner of Pros- peet and Rowland streets. In 1870, a larger and more commodious building was erected on Gregory Street, but before it was ready for dedication it was destroyed by fire. During the year 1874, the first church building was enlarged and improved, and made one of the
most attractive and commodious buildings for religious worship in the town.
During the past few years a few families have become believers in the doctrines of the " Second Adventists," and now hold regular mcet- ings for publie worship in a small hall on Pleasant Street.
In 1859, several members of the "First Congregational Church " received letters of dismission from that organization, and formed the " Third Congregational Church" in Marblehead. The next year a convenient and attractive church edifice was erected on the corner of Essex and School streets, where the new society worshipped till 1877, when the building was destroyed by fire. No attempt to rebuild was made, and the members finally sold the remaining property and wor- ship at other churches.
The oldest benevolent society in Marblehead is the "Female Hul- mane Society," organized in 1816. It has invested funds amounting to nearly one thousand dollars, and, besides expending the income of this, has an annual address, at which a collection is taken for the benefit of its funds. Its officers are elected annually, and monthly meetings are held for business purposes ; and although its membership has never been large, yet it has done a noble work for the benefit of the poor and needy.
The "Scamen's Charitable Society " was organized in 1831, at a time when hundreds of men were employed in the fisheries, and real- ized the need of an organization of this kind. It was a large and flourishing society for many years, and its funds increased rapidly. A marble monument was erected on the " old Burying Hill" in 1847, to the memory of its deceased members, and to commemorate the terrible disaster of September, 1846, when so many Marblehead sea- men perished on the Grand Banks of Newfoundland, among which were several members of this society. It still continues to hold annual meetings, and judiciously dispenses the income of its funds for the benefit of those for whose assistance the society was organized.
Of the secret benevolent societies, "Philanthropic Lodge" of the Masonic order is the oldest, having been chartered in 1760. It pros- pered for many years, and erccted the building opposite the head of Mason Street, now occupied as a dwelling-house, to secure a hall properly fitted for its meetings. During the popular excitement against this order, commeneing in 1826, the meetings were suspended, and the lodge ceased working for several years. With the institution of modern secret societies a greater interest was manifested in the more ancient institution, and the lodge, being re-established, gained largely in membership, and held meetings regularly till very recently.
" Samaritan Tent of Rechabites" was instituted in 1844, and has continued a prosperous organization from that year. For the benefit of its members in sickness, and the assistance of families of deceased members, it has expended nearly twenty thousand dollars, and holds property and funds at the present time valned at seven thousand dollars.
" Atlantic Lodge of Odd Fellows " was instituted in 1844, and from the day of its organization has been a flourishing institution. For many years its membership has been large, and many prominent eiti- zens of the town are contributing members to its funds. It has expended a large amount of money for the charitable purposes set forth in its laws, and owns real estate and other property valued at several thousand dollars.
" Washington Division Sons of Temperance " was instituted in 1856, and has continued to do good service for the temperance reform since its organization.
Within a few years the "Knights of Pythias " and the " Improved Order of Red Men" have each established branches of those organiza- tions in the town, and both are in a prosperous condition.
The " Ancient Order of Hibernians " has gathered a goodly number under the banners of that organization, who prosecute a charitable work under the laws of that institution.
The " Marblehead Mutual Benefit Society " has a membership of over three hundred, each contributing one dollar on the death of a member, for funeral expenses and the assistance of those who have been dependent on the deceased for support.
The " Marblehead Reform Club" was organized in 1875, and has done a noble work in winning men from habits of dissipation and intemperance to paths of sobriety and usefulness. With over two hundred members, it maintains regular meetings, and supports cheerful and attractive rooms, supplied liberally with papers and instructive books.
" The Independent Associates," another branch of the temperance reform movement, is a prosperous organization, laboring zealously for the freedom of men suffering in the bonds of appetite and indulgence.
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HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY, MASSACHUSETTS.
Every fire company in the town has adopted a plan, first introduced and applied by the " Mugford Fire Association," of collecting funds, by regular assessment, and the annual amount of compensation allowed by the town for services, to provide for the support and eare of sick members and the decent burial of the dead. Nearly every company in the fire department has aeeumulated a substantial fund for these purposes, and seores of poor men have been made comfortable through months of lingering siekness, by this wise and exeellent pro- vision.
The first local newspaper and printing-office in the town was estab- lished in 1830, when the " Marblehead Register " was issued. It was discontinued after one or two years, as a failure in a business point of view. Since the first unsuccessful experiment, other enterprises of the same character have been commenced at various times, and during these years the publie have been enlightened more or less by the " Marblehead Gazette," " Marblehead Mercury," " Essex County Times," "Marblehead Advocate," and " Marblehead Ledger; " but each, after a brief existence, was abandoned for want of sufficient patronage. The "Marblehead Messenger " was established in 1871, and although the enterprise has changed hands twice sinee that time, yet it has always been fairly patronized by the people. The enter- prising young men who now own and manage the paper have met with severe reverses since becoming proprietors ; but they have persevered with manly courage and great industry, and now have one of the best steam-printing establishments in Essex County, and a paper managed with ability and discretion, fairly patronized, and popularly regarded as one of the permanent institutions of the town.
On the 26th of May, 1874, the Hon. James J. H. Gregory, a prosper- ous farmer and seedsman, and one of the most public-spirited citizens in the place, offered, in open town-meeting, a donation of two thousand dollars, to be held in trust by the town, and invested in New England State or eity bonds, the ineome of which was to be applied, once in four years, "to promote the moral, mental, and physical welfare of the inhabitants of the town." A committee, consisting of " the chair- man of the board of seleetmen, the chairman of the board of school committee, and all the ministers of the gospel of the town, of every denomination, who are settled over religious societies," was designated to receive the income from this fund and apply it in accordance with the conditions of the benefaction. He made an additional offer, that if some other person would make the same contribution to the fund, it should be designated by the name of the person making such gift. The generous donation was accepted, and the thanks of the town unanimously voted to Mr. Gregory for his benefaction. As no other person has yet been found ambitious to secure the distinction conten)- plated by the proposition of the founder, the fund has very properly been designated as the "Gregory Fund."
The buildings in Marblehead are mostly constructed of wood, and in the older part of the town the houses are crowded together almost as compactly as the habitations of a large city ; that it has been recog- nized as a large town for two centuries, and during all that time has escaped any very great loss from fire, has been the wonder of many thoughtful and reflecting men. There have been dangerous fires during these years, which sometimes placed the property of the town in great peril ; but the activity of the people, the efficiency of the fire depart- ment, and other favorable circumstances, confined the loss on these occasions to a very few buildings. It was often predicted, however, that the time would come when the town would suffer severely from fire ; and this predietion was finally verified.
On the morning of June 25, 1877, at 2 o'clock, with the atmos- phere clear and calm, in the bright light of a full moon, an alarm aroused the people from their slumbers, and it was found that a small barn, attached to a large, three-story building called the " Marblehead Hotel," situated on Pleasant Street, was on fire, and burning furi- ously. It was discovered by the neighbors, who were awakened by the roar and noise of the crackling flames, and who promptly gave the alarm. The owner of the building occupied the first story as a flour and grain store, while the tenant of the hotel premises had removed nearly all of his furniture the week before, and with his wife
occupied one room in the building during that and the previous night, at the solicitation of the owner. The hotel was soon in flames ; and this building was unfortunately within twenty feet of an engine-house, which sheltered two fire-engines, and which covered in part the only reservoir of water in that part of the town. The two engines were promptly placed in position ; but, before any water could be obtained, the engine house was in flames, and the men with the engines driven from the reservoir. Closely packed, east of the burning building, were three large, four-story buildings ; and, before any considerable amount of water could be obtained, these, with three or four smaller buildings, were all on fire, and the flames beyond the possible control of a small fire department. Assistance was now solicited from the neighboring cities of Salem and Lynn, and even from Boston ; and, although the response was prompt, yet the time required for the travel of messengers over four or five miles of highway, and the return, was time that the devouring element improved with a fear- ful destruction of property. Assistance from Salem finally reached the seene, followed soon after with aid from Lynn; and these, with the Marblehead department, stopped the further spread of the flames at about sunrise. The fire department of Boston responded to the eall, and sent engines by a special train ; but the flames were under control when the train reached the town. The morning sun shone on a seene of smoking ruins and dreary desolation, that filled the hearts of the people with despair; for the stately factories which in that three hours' conflagration had disappeared, leaving only ashes behind, were the workshops of hundreds who depended on their daily earn- ings for their daily bread. From the reservoir to the Mugford monu- ment on Pleasant Street, every building on both sides of the strect, save one, had disappeared ; every building on School Street, except one ; on Sewall Street, from the corner of School to Spring Street, on both sides, only two buildings remained, and one of these was badly injured ; all on Spring Street, except a school-house, were de- stroyed ; all buildings on both sides of Essex Street, and a few on Bassett Street, were in ashes. A church, hotel, large boarding-house, engine- house, printing-office, railroad station, four passenger-cars, fifteen shoe factories and business blocks, two large stables, thirty-two dwelling-houses occupied by over forty families, and other buildings, in all numbering seventy-five structures, had been destroyed. Four- teen shoe manufacturers, two leather dealers, one grain store, two machine-shops, two hardware dealers, one boot-and-shoe store, three grocers, one provision dealer, one marble-worker, one apothecary, three halls, and two saloons had been burned out, and very little of the property had been saved. Many families were homeless, and had lost everything ; while hundreds of mechanics whose homes had not been scorched by the flames looked on the seene of desolation with heavy hearts, for it proclaimed to them no work and no wages for many months to come. In this extremity, the citizens of Salem, Lynn, Boston, and other places, nobly responded, and placed in the hands of a committee appointed by the citizens of Marblehead funds to assist all those requiring help, till employment could be seeurcd. With the money thus so nobly and generously contributed, hundreds of worthy people were saved the mortification of appealing to the last resource of poverty ; and small business enterprises were judiciously assisted where lack of insurance had left a few good men utterly ruined. The citizens of Marblehead can never forget this noble contribution from kind-hearted strangers, in the day of their great calamity ; and, while gratitude is recognized as a public or pri- vate virtue, the remembrance of the deed will be cherished with a grateful sense of obligation which no words ean properly express, or service can possibly eancel. A detailed statement of the merchandise and eash received, and the communities or individuals from which sueh assistance came, together with the expenditure of every dollar and for whose individual benefit it was applied, was carefully pre- pared, and placed in the hands of the public authorities. With this event we finish the story of a town and people who accepted the lessons of political self-government proelaimed in the cabin of the " Mayflower," and for more than two centuries have maintained them with unfaltering faith and courage.
MANCHESTER.
This town, delightfully situated on the sea-shore in the easterly see- tion of the county, is about four and one-half miles long, by two and one-fourth miles wide, and contains about 5,134 acres of land and water. It has for its boundaries, Hamilton and Essex on the north, Gloucester on the east, Massachusetts Bay on the south, and Beverly and Wenham on the west. By the Gloucester Branch Railroad which runs along the shore, it is seven miles west of Gloucester, nine miles north-east of Salem, and twenty-five miles north-east of Boston. The Congregational Church is in north latitude 42º 34' 30.41", and in west longitude 70° 44' 24.43". The underlying rock is sienite, which appears in extensive ledges in the northerly part of the town, and in bold, projeeting headlands on the coast. These ledges are sometimes covered with huge bowlders, which impart a wild and romantic aspect to the scenery. One of these bowlders on Beaver Dam Hill, and near the line of Essex, is called " Agassiz's Rock." It rests upon the point of another roek, inclines a little towards the west, and bears upou its summit a thrifty pine tree. These bowlders all bear the marks of glacial action, and must have been borne hither in times of old by the force of the waters of the sea.
Broken into rocky hills and ravines, diversified with woodland, meadow, and glade, with headlands on the sea, Manchester presents, at almost every point of view, peculiar and delightful scenery. Bold and picturesque eminences alternate with clean sandy beaches all along the shore, and the inlet to the harbor, flanked by natural walls of rifted roek, some fifty feet in height, forms one of the most re- markable seenic features of the town. The harbor itself, spreading out into many little ereeks, and interseeted by the railroad, is eapa- cious, but only vessels of small burden can come up to the wharves. The northerly section of the town is hilly, and almost entirely covered with a natural growth of oak. maple, birch, and pine. Millstone Hill is conspicuous in this section. A line of isolated rocky eminences extends from cast to west, nearly through the centre of the town, of which the most remarkable are, beginning at the east, Long Hill, Sheep-pasture Hill, Leach's Mountain, and Moses's Hill. On the rocky headlauds of the coast many elegant summer residences have been constructed, so that from the sea it seems to be a populous city. Among the owners are Messrs. J. B. Booth, Alanson Bigelow, R. H. Dana, Jr., Joseph Proctor, Esq., Maj. Russell Sturgis, James T. Fields, and the Rev. Dr. C. A. Bartol. The most conspicuous build- ing is " The Masconomo House," of 240 feet frontage, recently con- strueted by J. B. Booth, the actor. Many little islands lie along the shore, imparting beauty and variety to ocean view. Among them, commeneing at the east, are Kettle Island, Great Egg Roek, Little Egg Rock, Salt Rock, House Island, Ram Island, Little Ram Island, and Half-Tide Rock. On one of the beaches, near " Eagle Head," there is a peculiar kind of sand, ealled " The Singing Sand," which, when struck by the foot or by the wave, emits a musical tone. It seenis to be produced by some peculiarity in the angles of the grains of sand. The same phenomenon is observable at Salisbury Beach.
The town is very well watered by Wolf-trap Brook and Clay Brook in the easterly section, and by Saw-mill Brook, a clear and devious stream of sparkling water, which nearly bisects the town, furnishes some motive power, and empties into the harbor at the eentral village. Its tributaries are Cat Brook and Causeway Brook, and by it are formed Beaver Dam Pond, Baker's Pond, and also another mill-pond at the eentre. The estuary made by Saw-mill Brook and an arm of the sea is known as Jeffrey's Creek, or the harbor. The soil of the town consists of loam, intermixed more or less with sand, or gravel, or clay. It is well adapted to the growth of timber, grain, hay, and vegetables.
In a swamp near the line of Gloucester is found the Magnolia or Sweet Bay tree ( Magnolia glauca), which attains the height of some dozen feet, and has a beautiful green leaf, with large white fragrant flowers.
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