USA > Maine > First Maine bugle, 1892 (history of 1st Maine Cavalry) > Part 30
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The ride this day was a grand one. It was our first day's ride in the mountain country, ard as all was new, all was inte .- esting. We saw higher mountains, deeper canyons and wilder
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scenery, perhaps, before the journey was completed but com made a deeper impression upon us than was made on tilo fr ! experience. We were among the Glorietta mountain- il oba. or nearly so, and enjoyed every moment of the ride. HiMa hills everywhere, and canyons, and as we wound je and out among them, ever seeing new and curious formations, Che meeting new forms and finding ourselves in new and scenetipo startling positions, the ride was one of continually niko ff ... tions. There was little time for chat or books, or carl . vo anything but looking. The number who rode on the platform that day was greatly increased, so eager were the passenger to see all they could of this exceedingly strange country. Now we were rolling along between mountains whose tops the wall not see from the car windows, and barely see from the plat- forms ; now along the side of a mountain with the top far ab us on the one side while on the other side we could lool: down into what seemed almost unfathomable depths; now along a little stretch of plain, with the mountains here near us and there further away -- ever changing, ever grand mountain scen- ery, on which we did not grow weary of looking.
During one of the halts this day we got our first sight of red Indians, and found them to be as poor specimens of humanig as they have ever been written down. They said they won Pueblos - and, by the way, from them we learned how to natives pronounce the word. Their pronunciation, and .1 course they ought to know how to pronounce their own nancy is as though it were spelled " l'weblo ; " so we felt as though we had arrived at the right pronunciation of the mane of !! pretty city we had visited the day before, and found it not so hard to get our tongues around after all. But the Indir! ! Words would hardly do justice in describing them. They dd not really seem much like human beings. But we soon disco ered that they had learned one thing, if nothing else, and that was the value of money. They offered for sale specimens of their own pottery at curiosity prices, and they knew how to hold on to a price. There were several kodaks in the tr. in which had been pretty busy all day in capturing views of the
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scenery whenever the train stopped. These want brought wy hurriedly when the Indians were seen, but the Indians went out of sight as hurriedly and more quickly when they saw a kodn! pointed at them. They seemed to know what the little box we for, and men, women and children ran from it as if it ver a deadly weapon. But we soon found that they were not afraid of it -- they had learned its use, and did not propose to add to 11 value of the collection of any amateur photographer wil. o . compensation. However, for a nickel some pictures were obtained. Some of the party engaged a boy in conversation inn regard to some pottery he had for sale, and by keeping hi attention attracted, enabled a lady to get a snap shot at him. without his knowing it. She was much pleased with the succes: of the experiment, and so were those who assisted her, but ther joy at having outwitted the barbarian was short lived, for no sooner was the kodak snapped than a "big inji " came tom with much jabber and something of a threat ming attitude ind demanded a nickel "for taking picture of my brother." The nickel was forthcoming for the sake of keeping peace in th family. So I do not think any of the " leaders of thon, it got any the better of the untutored red man. But the elapt- rience was an interesting and amusing one. If there were any of the lovers of Cooper's Indians or of the Han die val they had the romance dissipated very quickly when they siu and tried to talk with these Pueblos.
Some of the party " learned a thing or to " during this day. In some way, in talking with one of the inhabitants, at sio. station, the question of the price of a small daily paper --- fin cents-was brought under discussion, when the resident sal with something of a curl to his lip. " O. we don't spit a rich ! in this country." This became quite a favorit .. expression. Ho the party found that it applied to every place they went. un' they had again reached this side of the Mississippi river. They don't "split a nickel" in that country, anywhere. Nothing is less in price than a nickel, unless it ben two cent postage stamp but in order to purchase one of those one must have the ex let change, or take the full value of the money offered. Persis
FIRST MAINE BUGKA.
are unknown there, except, perhaps, as chaotic , unterany of the younger portion of the communities would not know why one was if shown to them. But we soon pot used to this. an. often paid a nickel for a newspaper on which the prio . kan plainly printed, " two cents."
In the afternoon I met my confederate friend on the platitn. enjoying the scenery, when, without any warning, I three at him,
" We hall no hate for those brave men, Our foemen in the fight -- We knew they felt, as well as we, That they were in the right, And we'd respect for any man Who'd risk for right his life, E'en though he stood in arms arrayed Against us in the strife."
This pleased him very much. He said that agreed with 109 sentiments, and he was glad to mect a Union soldier who coall quote those lines. One thing brought on another, and vo loni another " good square talk," out there on the platforn., and the grand scenery through which we were riding, and no one who saw us would have supposed that in the seemingly not so very far distant past he and I were shooting at each other, or that there is a possibility that the foeman bullet which each of : carties in his body might have been tired by the other. But the spirit of the lines given above is the spirit of every comr yde. just the same.
During this afternoon, also, the passengers of the Essex Bad the pleasure of seeing one of the young ladies of the car eva- strip a young lady from another car, in a foot rage, and then was raised the war cry, " Essex forever."
The train rolled into the city of Albuquerque about des'. and the passengers proceeded to get supper. Ed and I. one caring for the meal in the dining station, went to a restaurant. Here we enjoyed a new sensation- that of seeing the food cooked for us. The cooking range was behind the lunch count- tor, in plain sight of all the customers, and cach we could! watch the manipulation of his order to his heart's content.
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And it did not lessen our appother in the least. Everything wn clean and neat, and the cooks looked clean and neat, so That watching the supper cooking was a pleasure rather than cofre wise. And it must be said that everything to tel good. While we were cating we had heard a strange clicking in another poors. and the meal over, we proceeded to investigate. We ka! passed through a nicely fitted bar room in order to get into the restaurant ; we now passed back into the bar room, and fool .. ing the sound of the clicking, turned to the left, and there fo ml a well fitted gambling room, with faro, roulette, and poker af! going, and quite a number of men there, some putting dove their money and others watching them. Everyone, gamblers and spectators, seemed to be perfectly unconcerned, as if this were an every day occurrence, as, indeed, it is. We watched the game a short time, and then departed, pondering semewho: over this strange combination-bar room, restaurant and son- bling saloon all in one. But we got used to sach scenes beion we again breathed Rhode Island air. It may be said th4. 1|0 price of the supper was as reasonable as it was good. V !. .. I looked over the town a bit; I had a pleasant chat with a Grand Army comrade from a Vermont regiment, and then we went back to the Essex and prepared for the night ride with a feeling that this had truly been a " big day."
FIFTH DAY OF THE CRUISE.
After a good night's sleep, we woke in the State of Art and having left New Mexico some time during the night. It is wonderful how we crossed whole States in our journey. The train stopped at Winslow for breakfast, when Ed and Istante! out for new experiences. We found one this time at a Chinese restaurant, where we got a good breakfast. The cooking, we donc behind the counter as the night before and everything looked clean and nice. At any rate we were satisfied with the experiment. Early in the forcenon we crossed Canon Datos (is there any need of translating that we the into Matchen This was a wild place. An immense ravine, hundreds of fo deep, in solid rock, with sides so steep that it seemed imple -
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ble for any one to climb them, and everything around at me wildest. A foot bridge had been created on each side of the railroad bridge for the accommodation of tourists, and the ther halted on the bridge for a few moment to allow the poet gers to get out of the car and look down into this innen ravine to their hearts' content. It was an awful looks, bet tiross was somehow a fascination in it, and most of the party Inde long and intently, though some were sati fied with a si glance. And there was an extra touch of the awful in loin down into that chasm from the fact that the iron rail along the foot bridge was loose in several places, which gave one a shidi as he leaned against it and felt it giving away, and he thought what might be. Perhaps the rail is left in that condition to add to the sensations of travelers in that wild country. It Was noticeable that the irreverent advertiser Had been there, an 1 along the sides of the rugged walls, and away down to the bottom of the ravine, could be seen the sacrile gious wall the advertisement painter, and our view of wild nature V. interfered with hy sceing patent medicine virtues storing up into our faces. Whoever put them there certainly de-er.c credit for one thing-the patience and labor required to 10 100 the locality.
All the morning we rode in sight of snow-capped mountains in the distance, and by the middle of the forencon we were in sight of the San Francisco mountains, which remained in ;. with all their grandeur and glory, nearly or quite all day. Py the way, why would it not be a good idea for the railroad company to engage some one to go over the road the whole length, leisurely, study up the points of interest, and then write a book for the benefit of the passengers over the triali -- not a formal guide book, nor yet an elaborate book: do travel, which .no one would take the trouble to read, but something between the two -- something which would che the traveler some knowledge of the country through which he is passing, and so attractively put that he will not only and it with pleasure but remember it. For myself, on this day am! the day before, I wanted to ask numberless questions. Whena
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boy I was much interested in the history of the Santa Le bspr- dition, and to ride so many miles substantially along the old Santa Fe trail, was an experience of it elf, but I should have enjoyed it much more could I have had some on- to point out to me many places which I remembered reading about, and to late to me some of the tales and traditions in which I was intended many years ago. It seems to me that no railroad in the couple; affords so good a field in this particular line, for time and . route is replete with history, adventure and tradition.
The ride during the forenoon was enjoyed, every minute, and at noon we stopped for dinner at Williams. Here one of the ladies of the Essex, who for some reason had been given " Rob Roy " for a pet name, and who was the possessor of a camera, after dinner announced her wish to take a photograph of the Essex family. So the members of the party were collectedi together as well as could be, and after the usual work of preparation, which in this case seemed more than usual owing to the strol- ing disposition of some of them, the camera was shippel. About this time, two small boys, natives of the vicinity, came along, each one mounted upon a burro. Here was a chang . fr fun, and it was duly improved. The burros were brought int . requisition for a photo, and a picture was taken in which a .. burros were the principal figures, while from between the immense ears looked out one or more of the Essex passengers, and in the background were ladies of the car, standing upet. the burros' backs and steadying themselves by clinging to the gentlemen in front of them. It was not quite polite, to be sure. to allow the gentlemen to be seated while the ladies were con. pelled to stand, but in this case politeness was sacrificed too art that a more striking picture might be obtained. And there was a good deal of fun in getting the groups satisfactorily arranged. But the crowd was good natured, and " Rob Roy " was patient.
The ride of to-day was a varied and interesting one. Beside the points of interest already spoken of, we rode over the " horse shoe." This is a portion of the road where, in order of reach the height required to go over the mountain, it was neses- sary for the railroad to go this way and that, and twist around
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in various ways, all the time gaining a higher grads. The re oft was that for a time we who were in the second tram conti Block up in the air and see the first train, much higher than v. . love and almost directly over our heads, and then look as far doro below us and see the third train. At the same time the 6 :- t train could look down upon the other two trains and se theca at different altitudes but almost directly under cach oti. frmol the third train could look up and see the other two in show situations and relationship. It reminded me of the tin. Go regiment passed through Thornton's Gap in the mountain , on the raid to Luray, in December, 1863, and those of the com- rades who were on that famous raid will perhaps havesome idea of the ride over the horse-shoe, and will at least under-tond why it was necessary for the railroad to be built with so may crooks and turns. It was a fine ride we had, too, through the Crockton canyon, and we had the benefit of it on the platform, with the gentlemanly conductor to answer questions and in, ert voluntary interesting information. This was a view of the canyon from a different standpoint from that of Canon Diab olo. There the chasm was below us and we crossed it on a very high bridge; here we were nearly at the foot of the canyon. and must perforce look up to see the ruggedl beauty and good- cur of the rocks and mountains. " Wonderful. wonderful are the works of nature," was the thought in many minds. We also crossed the Continental Divide, with greater or less varity of sensations. Then, at Ash Fork, where we halted for a : Hart time, we had the pleasure of seeing a number of cow-boys on their native heath and in their every day costumes. Of course these were objects of great interest, and they seemed to enjoy being looked at and commented upon as much as we enjoyed the scene, showing off their riding and other peculiarities flechy and courteously. We had no reason to speak ill of the cow- boy at home. We also had a visitor on the train-W. W. B .... proprietor of the Grand Canyon stage line, who was on board! for business connected with his line, and who left cach one of us a poem entitled " The Grand Canyon of the Colorado, 'a quotation from which is here given, not only as a specinten of
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western advertising, but because it gives an inkling of how a canyon really looks, though each one has its own peculiartin. .
Now we reach the Colore lo, On its rocky walls we stand, Gazing down in speechless wond r Never was a sight so grand; Here a terrace, there a steeple, Gilded spires of heights unknow! Towering mountains, raging river, All within these walls of stone ; Ever changing, never ceasing, Light and shadow blending hues, Granite, marble, lime and sandstone, Forming panoramic views. Here we find in grand succession, Each formation, old and nes. Gracious book of information Nature has prepared for you. What a feld for art and science; Poet, painter, every mind. In this wondrous work of nature Fitting food will surely find.
At Peach Springs we stopped for a while, and there han pe re Indian experiences. These were the Wallupis, and they core tainly were no improveuent over their brothers of the Post! tribe. They were even more urgent to obtain monty. if this a sign of increasing civilization. They wanted " men" for every- thing, from looking at a papoose to facing a kodak. One of them who was mounted on a pony, would not show his pony - paces to a pretended purchaser without " two bits," because In heard some one inadvertently say he would like to see with ril . For a nickel any one of a half dozen squaws would allow you person to take a hasty glance at her papoose, which they s. i so closely concealed beneath several thicknesses of blanket the the wonder is the little fellows were not smothered, and This ti .. mothers' source of revenue cut off. They were cunning lini. fellows, though, and, perhaps, worth seeing. But no m . would allow a picture of her offspring taken for a nickel --- on no; she must have two bits for that. Even the small se of them who was able to run, ran speedily when a kodak carbon sight. One enterprising amateur photographer, however, we-
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ceeded in getting a snap on the mounted Inar. The jens was busily engaged in turning the skin of a mountain lion who he was trying to sell, and the snap was taken. Just then the Jiden looked up and at a glance realized what had happened, alen upon there wreathed around his mouth the sickliest looku. smile that ever adorned the face even of an Indian. On al the Essex passengers became enamored of a bracelet worp on the arm of an old Indian and wanted to purchase it. It vat rather a curious thing for a bracelet- of brass, of no !! described shape, and only reached around about three-fourth of the red man's wrist. It certainly did not look like a braucht that any white man over made or wore, and perhaps the Yankee was justified in considering it the product of some semi-barbar- ous taste and skill. At any rate, after bartering a while. he finally purchased the bracelet for four bits. IT had pall the money, and had just received the curious souvenir of Indian peculiarities, when the colored porter of another car Com. along, and learning of the transaction, looked at the bracelet for a moment, and with the utmost contempt remarked, " That isn't a bracelet, at all; that is the handle of a grip sack such a English tourists carry." At this the purchaser, straightening himself up to his full height, made a brief address, saying " Yesterday, I was surprised to see an Indian smile, and made the remark that I thought an Indian never smiled, whereupon my friend, here, ( pointing to a fellow passenger. ) said, . Perhaps they don't only when they meet the fool Yankees.' Gentlemen. that Indian may smile --- I am the fool Yankee." Then the pan faces laughed, but the Indian looked on with stoical indifer por. or if he laughed, it was in his sleeve.
In the afternoon " Rob Roy " began to make preparations t. leave the car in the morning, for a day or two, to visit friends that part of the country, and the expressions of sorrow at the prospect of losing her from the party were so numerous as to make her feel uncomfortable, to say the least, and she turned upon the friends who had gathered around her, and said. GEN I don't like this; I don't want anybody to be sorry became. ! am going away ; you ought rather to rejoice with me because !
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am going to meet old friends and have a pleasant time with them. I don't like this sort of thing; I don't want ang :od looks or mourning at my funeral; I want my friend to come to the funeral with music and flowers, and have a good time.' " You want them rather to rejoice with you, than to mours for themselves, do you not? " inquired a gentleman. "Tlug's ju til. ' she replied, and I must say that I was inclined to comcid_ with this view.
Along in the evening the train reached the Needles, and we were in California. Here I had a bit of a fright. I found there was a ringing in my ears, that there was difficulty in hearing. and that my own voice, as the voices of others, sounded afel off. What it meant I did not at first know, but I soon found out that several of the party were afflicted in the same way. The greater number of the excursionists had had some slight disturbance while coming over the mountains, especially when at high altitudes-ringing in the cars, singing in the head, nos bleed, sore throats, parched lips, etc., but I had escaped them. all, only to receive my share at the lowest altitude we reached. and there were others who were affected the same as I was. 1 paid little attention to it after I learned what it meant, and long before morning it was all over with. While here we had time for a bit of a stroll around the place, during which we visited several gambling saloons which were conducted as openly as a prayer meeting -- more so, because the outer doors were wils open. Here also the watches were set back another hour, and for more than a month there was three hours difference bety con Ed's watch and mine-I still keeping the home time. It was : o'clock by my watch, and with the folks at home, when it was 12 by his.
SIXTH DAY OF THE CRUISE.
Sunday morning I was awake early, as usual, and as usual lov in the berth awhile and thought of home and friends. Tid early morning hour was the only time during the cruise of the Essex when I had an opportunity to think or meditate, and I made the most of it, communing with friends even thousands of
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miles away. It is always unpleasant getting op in the mornin in a sleeping car. Indeed, the most unpleasant hours : 0 day are the hour before retiring and the bom after arising the first instance, the car slowly an I solemily transforms n i into a sleeping apartment, the sounds of pleasant chat granton; grow fewer and of lower tone until they cease altogether, che has no place to sit while his own bed is being made, unlessit b in the seat of someone else, which gives him an unpleasant foot- ing of being a trespasser and keeping some one else from Mi own comfort, and there is a dicary, uncomfortable feeling al around. In the second instance, one feels alone in the our. realizes that he must move about as noiselessly as possible in order not to disturb the sleepers, has no place in which to stop while his bed is being taken down and the section prepared for the day, and he feels out of place altogether until the majority of the passengers are up and dressed and the car has put on it- day time costume. But I didn't intend to sermonize.
This morning we had a ride over the great Mojave des il. We had seen something of desert while in the mountainen country -- enough, we thought-but nothing quhe so dreary an : of so much extent as this. For miles and miles, to, say nothis. of the miles ridden during the night, we rode over a country it which nothing was growing but sage bush and cactus, and no , great quantity of that. The only variety to the scenery was tin snow-capped mountains in the distance, and that was not vor encouraging. Still we were not entirely unhappy, for even this was something new, was another view of nature, and a photo with which we were unaccustomed, so that if there was not much to see -- neither mountains, nor canyons, nor forests, nor gesch fields, there were yet touches of nature in a new form, and as such even the desert scenery was interesting. We stopped Barstow for breakfast, and there found a welcome from San Bernardino, in the shape of oranges, wine and flowers-our welcome to California. All were good, but the roses were ! ! unusual size and unusual flavor. At San Bernardino I vhe called out of the car by Charley Lee, who said some one wants to see me. All unsuspecting. I stepped out of the car and then
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had the pleasure of meeting my only sister. Ms. Mary J. Garcelon, and her husband. . They are residents of Riverside, only a few miles distant, and knowing the train was due in San Bernardino this morning, they had come over to meet the " tio Eds." I need not say the meeting was a joyful one, whereit i. understood I had not seen my sister for half a dozen year -. We took the two into the Essex, and carried them to Riversid . and of course had a delightful ride, the only unpleasant thing about it being its brief length. We left my friends at their home, and passed along toward the Pacific ocean, knowing that we should meet them again in a day or two. It was surprising. how quickly the character of the country changed when we reached a point where irrigation could be practiced. Frour : dead, dry desert, where a crow would have to work hard for a living, it was transformed into orange groves, and vineyards, and beautiful homes, and flowers, in a twinkling, almost. In the morning we had crossed a country where, to use the words of a resident, water would be worth fifteen hundred dollar- da inchi. if they could only get it, and long before noon we were riding through a country of beautiful gardens-a country of all gur dens. It was a beautiful ride that afternoon, and especially .. after we came in sight of the Pacific, which kept in our sigle now and then for miles,
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