USA > Maine > The history of the state of Maine; from its first discovery, A. D. 1602, to the separation, A. D. 1820, inclusive, Vol. I > Part 4
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* " Peckwalket," Sullivan 25 ; or Peguawett,-Gov. Lincoln. [Sandy Land.] + MS. Letter of A. J. Cook, Esq. and a plan.
Į MS. Letters of Rufus McIntire, Esq. and James Ayer, jr. Esq.
§ MS. Letter of John Neal, Esq. | Rev. Jona. Cogswell, of Saco.
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SECT. II.] OF MAINE.
The river is easily affected by freshets. In a common one the Saco river. water rises ten feet, and sometimes it has risen 25 feet; when in many places it overflows its banks and makes great destruc- tion. This was particularly the case in the great flood of Octo- ber, 1775, when a large stream, called New river, broke out of New river. the White Mountains, and bore down every thing in its way, till it found a discharge in Ellis' river. The Saco, being swelled enormously by this accession to its waters, swept away mills, bridges, domestic animals, and great quantities of lumber. The burst of New river from the mountains was a great phenomenon ; and as its water was of a reddish brown, or bloody colour, the people considered it an ill omen in those times of revolution .*
After passing the ancient plantations of Kittery, York, Wells, and Saco, we come to Scarborough, which has never changed its Scarboro'. name since its first incorporation. It extends towards the east, six miles in width on the coast, to the mouth of Spurwink river, Spurwink. which seems to cut off as it bounds the eastwardly corner of the town. This part is called Black point ; and between the mouth Black point. of Spurwink and those of Libby's, Nonesuch, and Dunston riv- ers, which discharge their waters in confluence, is Prout's Neck, Prout's projecting into the sea and forming a semi-globular mound, of neck. some height, joined to the main land by a narrow isthmus. The Nonesuch enters the town from Saco on the south side, crossing Nonesuch. the line five miles from the sea, runs round Scottow's hill in the form of a circle, nearly to the east line of the town, and joins Dunston river near its mouth. Between this and Little river, on Saco line, in the southwest quarter of Scarborough, is Blue point Blue point. Dunston. and the highlands. Dunston and Nonesuch are both small ; the latter has nine bridges over it; the former, being westward of the other, is the shorter and larger of the two and forms a difficult harbour for vessels of a small size. Outside of the bar are Steten and Bluff Islands, south of the neck.t
* At the mouth of the Saco are Gooseberry Island, Stage Island and Monument, Basket Island, Ram and Eagle Islands.
t Rev. Nathan Tilton's MS. description of Scarborough and a plan. The early grant to Henry Josselyn was confirmed in 1684, to Joshua Scot- tow and others, by President Danforth. But Josselyn married the widow Commock, and thus acquired a large estate at Black point, which, either by the above confirmation or otherwise, became Scottow's. The " Mille- ken claim," arose from an Indian purchase by the Algers.
30
THE WATERS AND COAST
[INTRODUC.
Falmouth.
The ancient Falmouth* the next plantation to Scarborough, eastward, was originally eight miles wide, in a straight line on the seaboard of Casco bay, and embraced the present towns of Cape Elizabeth, Westbrook, Portland and what is now Falmouth. We propose to describe first the Coast, and second the Bay.
Purpoo- duck.
beth.
Upon the Coast, the town of Cape-Elizabeth, from the mouth of Spurwink south, to the utmost extreme of Purpooduck north, is eight miles, as the shore runs, and from two to three miles wide. On its easterly side are two noted projections of land ; Cape Eliza- one is Cape Elizabeth, at the southwesterly limit and site of Cas- co bay, four miles from the mouth of Spurwink river, on which Portland- head. is a Pyramid of stone ; the other is Portland-head, two miles farther north, opposite to the entrance into the sound. On this head is Portland Lighthouse, in lat. 43º 39 and long. 70° 3,- an edifice of stone 72 feet in height, exclusive of the lantern, and was erected in 1790. Spurwink settlement was and is in the southerly angle of the town, towards that river. The Pur- pooduckt village is nearly opposite the compact part of Portland and is connected with that place by a bridge, 2,600 feet in length.
Between Portland peninsula and the town of Cape Elizabeth Fore river. is Fore river, a salt water indent, stretching first southerly and then westerly, in all a league or more, and terminating in Stroud- Stroud- waler. water river which descends through Westbrook. Spurwink settlement was prosecuted under Samuel Jordan, an Episcopal clergyman ; and that of Purpooduck by several brothers whose surname was Wallace.
Richman's Island.
Watch Jedgc.
Richman's Island is southwesterly of the headlands on Cape Elizabeth point, distant 22 miles; and N. E. of Wood Island, three leagues. It is situated } mile from the main land by a strait fordable at low water. It is good land, about 3 miles in circumference and inhabited by two families. It has a harbour for small vessels ; though it has sunken rocks called Watch ledge, half a mile in extent, east from the northeast end of the Island. In early History this Island is frequently mentioned.
Back cove.
On the north and east side of Portland, is a bay called Back cove, which stretches up westerly near to the head of Fore river,
* Indian name, Tolam-J. De Laet, (printed 1633.)
t The Indians called this land and the country west, " Apistama."
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SECT. II.]
leaving an intervening isthmus, which joins the peninsula to the main land in Westbrook. At the mouth of the cove, is a very commodious and substantial toll-bridge about 120 rods in length.
With the waters in the northerly margin of that cove, at its mouth, mix those of Presumpscot* river, which is navigable a Presump- scot river. short distance from the sea. Its head is in Sebago lake, the Sebago lake. easterly edge of which is fifteen miles from the salt water in a straight line. The lake is about four leagues by three in com- pass, and receives a number of tributary streams ; the principal one being Crooked river, which rises in the north part of Albany, near a bend of the Androscoggin, and finds its mouth in Sebago pond after running southerly about 35 miles, and turning a num- ber of mills. Northwest of it is Long pond, between Bridgeton Long pond. and Harrison, 9 miles in length.t
About two miles northeast of the place where the Presump- scot receives its waters from Sebago lake, is Sebago pond, which pond. lies partly in Gray, though mostly in Windham. It was origin- ally in two parts, separated by a neck 25 feet in width, but con- nected by one Hardy, about 1760, who lived on an Island in the northern one, to avoid carrying his boat from the one to the other ; the southern one before had no outlet. About the year 1790, Col. Anderson cut a canal from the latter, half a mile long, south- westerly, to Pleasant river, a mill stream, through which he drew a small brook to aid in turning his mills. In the great freshet of 1814, the water in the pond rising to an unusual height, burst away the bank of the pond, at the head of the canal, which was sand; and with a tremendous torrent opened a channel 300 feet in width and 50 feet in depth, and swept away a house in which a family lived, also a mill and a bridge; and rushed into a thick and heavy growth of forest trees, tearing them up by the roots, and swelling Pleasant river, so that its waters did much damage before they were discharged into the Presumpscot. The latter is itself rapid, though not very large, and has high banks espe- cially towards its mouth.
Royall's, or Westecustego river, is about seven miles north- Royall's or Westerus- east of Presumpscot ; and between the two there are, along the tego river.
* Or Spring-point. + MS. Letter of Z. Leach, Esq.
Į A MS. Letter from J. Waterman, Esq., with a plan. Also 3 Mass. His. Coll. p. 469.
Sebago
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THE WATERS AND COAST
[INTRODUC.
coast, several shoal indents of water and salt marshes. It is a small river, and has a good harbour at its mouth, about which the ancient settlements of North-Yarmouth were commenced which suffered so exceedingly in the early Indian wars. The river rises in New-Gloucester, and after running fifteen miles, descends a fall two miles from the sea, where it meets the tide at the head of navigation.
The original North-Yarmouth lay about nine or ten miles long North-Yar- from the easterly line of Falmouth, in direct course, on the mar- mouth. gin of the salt water; extended back two leagues and a half from the mouth of Royall's river and from Magocook bay, which Magocook bay. terminates northeast in Maquoit* ; and embraced, besides the present town of that name, the towns of Freeport, southeast, and Pownal in the rear. In Freeport are several small creeks, where wood-coasters can load. In the western section of the town is a small stream called Harraseeket river, where the first settlements were established; and in the centre are Porter's and Mast land- ings, two or three miles from the sea, at which vessels of 400 tons have been built.+
Harrasee- ket river.
It was between the head-waters of Maquoit and Brunswick, or Pejepscot falls, where the Indians passed over land three or four miles only, in their travels across the country.
Merryco- neag. Middle bay Mare-point.
Between Magocook bay terminating at Maquoit, and the pen- insula Merryconeag [in Harpswell] is Middle Bay, which bor- ders on that town east, and northwest, on a tongue of land called "Mare-point," which is the south extremity of Brunswick, and which separates the waters of the two bays.}
gan. Quaheag.
That peninsula is nine miles in length and its average width one mile, and joins Brunswick on the north by an isthmus " a Sebascode- very few rods wide." Eastward of it is the Island Sebascodegan, which lies north of Quaheag bay, and which is separated from the main land on the east by New Meadows bay, § and river ;
* D. Neal says, A. D. 1700, " Maquoit is a small village." In " 1662 Boies and others built a fortification at Musequoite." Kennebeck Claims p. 18.
+ Rev. R. Nason.
# From this place may be seen Portland Observatory.
§ Quaheag and New Meadows bays, form Broad sound, between Harps- well and Cape Small-point.
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OF MAINE.
SECT. II.]
and these latter urge their waters up within one mile of the An- droscoggin. On this Island are 70 houses. Originally, the town of Harpswell was considered a part of North-Yarmouth ; though the title to the lands came through the Plymouth com- pany .*
Harpswell.
New Meadows bay and river, form an arm of the sea, making New Mead- up north from Small-point and east of Sebascodegan, in width ows river. from one to two miles, and in length 15 miles, within one mile (as above mentioned,) of the Androscoggin waters ; its head has been called Stevens' river.+ The harbour is formed by a cove, two miles north of Bare Island, land-locked on all sides and suf- Bare Island. ficiently capacious to hold forty sail of vessels. The cove is be- tween the rocks called the Brown Cow and White Bull. This river bears N. E. 8 leagues distant from the pyramid on Cape Elizabeth.
Cape Small-point, two leagues southeastwardly of New Mead- Cape Small. ows river, at its mouth, has high ground and a rocky shore and poin .. is inhabited. Above the point on the northwest, there is a small harbour, and below the southwest extreme of the point is Lovell's (Glover's ) rock,¿ which is one league west by north from Se- guin Lighthouse.
CASCO BAY.
Between Cape Elizabeth and Cape Small-point, which are nine leagues asunder, are the waters of the spacious and celebrated Casco bay ; § of which the northern shore forms the hypotenuse Casco bay.
* MS. Letter of Rev. Samuel Eaton.
t Stevens' River is 40 rods wide where the turnpike bridge crosses it, 5 1-2 miles from the college, and 2 and 1-2 from Bath-village. From the bridge to its head is about 1 and 1-2 mile, and from its head to Merry- meeting bay is only one mile-through which a canal has been cut 30 feet . wide,-so deep as to float rafts about highwater .- The old road passed by the head of the river to Bath. Stevens lived on the north side of the present canal, and Purchase on the south side.
# One mile W. N. W. from Glover's rock is Small-point ledge.
§ The ancient " Acocisco."-The Compiler is indebted to the courtesy of L. Moody, Esq. Portland, for the information in the account given of this bay and its Islands. Mr. M's Chart of the bay is very perfect.
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THE WATERS AND COAST
[INTRODUC.
Sounds. Portland,
Hussey's,
Luckse's, Broad, and Harpswell.
and the eastern shore the perpendicular of an acute angle at the head of Stevens' river. The principal entrances into this bay are through five noted sounds, viz. 1. Portland sound on the western side between the main and Bang's Island, leading to Portland harbour ; 2. Hussey's sound, eastwardly 3 or 4 leagues distant, between Peak's Island and Long Island ; 3. Luckse's sound, southwesterly of Great Gebeag; 4. Broad sound, easterly of the latter Island and of Crotch and Jewel's Island, and southerly of Westecustego river ; and 5. Harpswell sound, between Merry- coneag peninsula and Baily's Island.
Portland harbour.
Portland harbour is one of the best on the American coast. The usual entrances into it are through either Portland or Hussey's sounds ; where is good anchorage, on an oozy bottom in water from 1 to 6 fathom deep, land-locked on all sides, having the peninsula and the mouth of Fore river westward, Bang's Island southward, Great and Little Hog Islands southeastward ; Mackay's Island and the main northward ; and Clapboard Island northeast- ward. The harbour is seldom frozen over, and the Ledge west- ward of Little Hog Island, is the only annoyance of any kind to vessels.
Northeast harbour.
Northeast of the preceding harbour, and contiguous, is another still superiour, between the main and Great Gebeag, being more than two leagues in length N. E. and S. W. and varying in breadth from one to three miles. This harbour with a soft bottom and water from 5 to 15 fathoms deep, is sufficiently spacious to hold 1,000 ships of the largest class ; which with a fair wind could go to sea through Hussey's sound in a single hour. Along the shores of Falmouth and North-Yarmouth, between them and Clapboard and Sturtevant's Island, however, the water for a short time in some winters is frozen over.
This bay is crouded with Islands, of different sizes, shapes and appearances ; and the fact of their being twice or three times as long as wide, and generally stretching northeast and southwest, inspires the thought, that they might be all at some period connect- ed, and then rent asunder by an earthquake or some other tre- mendous shock of nature from the southwest. The whole number seen above the water at the height of common tides is about 110, exhibiting all the varieties of black ledges, ragged rocks, verdant elevations, and well cultivated fields.
35
SECT. II.] OF MAINE. 1622209
A short description of the Islands apparent above the tide- Casco bay. waters, follows-beginning on the western side of the bay, with Islands. the Islands nearest Portland Lighthouse.
Bang's Island, of 250 acres, exhibits on the eastern side a Bangs'. high bluff, called " White-head," and is environed by a rocky shore. It is more than a mile N. E. of Portland Light, bears a few trees, yields good pasture, and is inhabited by one family.
Southeast of this, one mile, is Ram Island, uninhabited, con- Ram Island. taining 10 acres of low land, with a rocky, dangerous shore ; upon which is a pond and pasturage.
House Island, of 40 acres, is half a mile long, N. W. of Bang's House Island and a near neighbour. On its westerly end, which is east of fort Preble on the main, t distant more than half a mile, is fort Scammell, erected A. D. 1807-8, and so named in honour of a mell. brave Colonel in the American Revolution. Here is a battery, a blockhouse and a small body of United States troops. The west- erly half is owned by the National Government, and the other is inhabited by one family .- Fort Preble, built at the same time with the preceding, is garrisoned by 50 soldiers. It is a strong fortification ; the walls, which are constructed of stone laid in lime-mortar, are 12 feet in height, of a curving form, and enclose the barracks ; but the hospital and habitations for the officers are without the fort.
Island.
a Fort Scam-
Fort Preble.
One league eastwardly of Portland is Peake's Island, of 500 Peake's acres and good soil. Its length is half a league by one mile in Island. width ; and has on the S. E. side a rocky shore. It is inhabited by 10 or 12 families who are owners of the Island in severalty.
Northwestwardly and near, are Great and Little Hog Islands Two Hog containing together 300 acres, and separated by a bar covered Islands. only at highwater. They form the easterly side of Portland harbour. Upon the former, which is good land, are two houses and a fine growth of wood ; the northeasterly shore is rocky, and the south and west sides sandy. The other is sandy pasture land, without inhabitants.
* The acres mentioned, are generally by estimation, in most of the Islands.
t In the town of Cape Elizabeth, across the channel and west from House Island, is fort Preble.
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THE WATERS AND COAST
[INTRODUC.
Casco bay. Mackay's Island.
Mackay's Island, situate 1-2 a mile from a point of that name* east of Presumpscot river-mouth, and N. E. of Portland Obser- vatory, 2 miles, containing 70 acres, exhibits a handsome shape, an inviting sandy shore, one dwellinghouse and a beautiful surface.
Two Broth- Northeast, near Falmouth shore, are " the Brothers," which ers. are two small uninhabited Islands, connected by a bar, and are of little value.
Cow Island.
Pumpkin Island. Crow Island.
Near the N. E. part of Great Hog Island is Cow Island, which contains 25 acres of good land, secured by a rocky shore, and adorned with a handsome dwellinghouse and verdant summer fields, without any trees. South, more than one mile and close to the N. E. end of Peak's Island, is a very small one of 2 acres, uninhabited, called Pumpkin Island, covered with a thick spruce growth, and bounded by a bold rocky shore. Crow Island is also very small, directly south of Cow Island, at the mouth of Diamond Cove, an indent on the N. E. side of Great Hog Island,-a place of great resort by the people of Portland in summer for pastime and recreation.
Long Island.
But one of the most beautiful in these waters is Long Island, separated from Peak's Island, on the east, by Huzzy's sound. It is about 2 and 1-2 miles long by 3-4ths of a mile mean width, and contains 600 acres, inhabited by 10 or 12 families of well informed people. Though the western end is somewhat rocky, the soil is loamy and productive, adorned with scattering trees.
Marsh Islands.
Very near the southwestern extremities of Long Island are Overset and Overset and Marsh Islands ; the former of which, so named from its form, contains 6 or 8 acres, and is uninhabited, rocky and full of spruces. The other is also small, low, rocky and barren, connected to Long Island by a bar.
3 Green Islands.
A league and a half eastward of Portland Light, are the three Green Islands, one of which is not far from Jewel's Island. Each is small, about twenty feet in height, and without inhabitants.
Jewel's Island.
Jewel's Island, of 163 acres, is more than a mile in length, the northerly moiety of which is very narrow; and on the northeast part is a curious and very excellent harbour. The soil is good, and the face of this beautiful Island is cheered, by the appearance of one dwellinghouse well filled with inhabitants.
* Mackay's point-is where Mr. Mackworth dwelt; and Massachu- setts, 1652-3 claimed 4 or 5 miles farther north.
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OF MAINE.
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Still larger is Crotch Island, at the north, which contains 350 Casco bay. acres of good land, and is inhabited by 6 or 7 families. Its shape Island. Crotch is much like a capital T; its shores are rocky, though on the easterly side is a good harbour .- The westerly half of this Island and all the others in this bay, previously mentioned, belong to Portland.
About half way between the preceding one and the south end of great Gebeag is Hope Island, which exhibits good land, two Hope Is !- houses, and a bold ledgy shore ;- northeast of which is Sand and, of 80 acres. Sand Island.
Island, of 2 or 3 acres, low and barren.
Great and Little Gebeag* are very famous Islands. The for- Great and mer, containing 1,800 acres, is the largest Island in Casco bay, if Little Ge- we except, perhaps, Sebascodegan. It is situated about six miles beag. from the main land, possesses a good soil, and supports 325 in- habitants, distributed into 43 families. It is a high Island, 4 miles long by 3-4ths of a mile in mean breadth ; and more than half of it is yet covered with a soft wood growth. It has two harbours, viz., in its northeast and southwest parts. The Island- ers are fishers or farmers ; they have a good school-house ; and are a part of North-Yarmouth.+ An half mile southwest is Little Gebeag, of 60 acres, and a good soil, which being well cultivated supports one family. This Island is only rocky on the southwest side, the residue is sandy ; and it is connected with Great Gebeag by a sand bar. It belongs to Portland.
Clapboard Island, lying 2 miles N. W. of Little Gebeag, and 1 mile from the shore of Falmouth, is a mile long and only a few Island. rods wide, low, though of pretty good soil, bearing a growth of trees .¿ It contains 65 acres, and is uninhabited.
Sturtevant's Island, of 80 acres, lying still farther N. N. E. Sturtevant's Island. is uninhabited and rough; and between these two Islands are dangerous ledges. Not far distant is Basket Island, of 15 acres, Basket
Clapboard
Island. full of spruces and firs, in a tolerably good soil.
Between Great Gebeag and the main, are Cousin's and Little Cousin's
Island, of John's Islands. The former, which is the nearer of the two to 500 acres.
* Anciently " Chebeague." t They now have a meeting-house.
# About A. D, 1652-4, Massachusetts extended her Charter to this Island.
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THE WATERS AND COAST
[INTRODUC.
Casco bay. the land, is two miles long and ¿ a mile wide. It is an high Isl- and, and exhibits to good advantage 6 or 8 dwellinghouses, a Little John's good soil, a sandy shore, and some flats. Little John has 200 Island. acres of good land, and two or three houses; its S. E. shore is rocky, and the residue a mere mud bank; extending at low water even to Cousin's Island.
G. & L. Mo- ges.
Great and Little Moges'* Islands lie near the mouth of Har- raseeket river. The former contains 100 acres of good soil, and the latter 20; and from both a mud bank extends to the main shore.
B. Sound.
Green Island. Goose Nest.
Crow Island.
L. Bangs' Island.
Stockman's Island.
Stave Island.
Ministerial Island.
Bates' Island.
Broken Cave.
Eagle Island
On the westerly side of Broad sound, and south of the north- ern extremity of Great Gebeag, are these several Islands to be seen as we proceed to the mouth of the sound, at the head of which are, 1, Two Green Islands, very small and poor, cover- ed with spruces, near Great Moges :- 2, The Goose Nest, a bar- ren, dangerous ledge, small and without a tree, lying 3-4ths of a mile south of Great Gebeag ;- 3, Crow Island, t a mile west of the Goose Nest, small and barren ;- and 4 and 5, south of Goose Nest, 1-2 a mile, is Lower Bangs' Island, of 60 acres, 3-4ths of a mile long from N. E. to S. W., very narrow, with a poor soil, and rugged shore ; having Stockman's Island northeast, contain- ing 20 acres, as rocky and sterile as the others. 6, South of Lower Bangs' Island is Stave Island, of 50 acres, surrounded by rocks and reefs. Its soil is indifferent, yet it contributes support to one family .- Between Lower Bangs' Island and Stave Island is the usual route from Portland to Kennebec. 7, Next is Min- isterial Island, containing 11 acres, half a mile long, low, nar- row, and unproductive, though cheered by one house. Its shore is ledgy and forbidding, and between it and Stave Island are dan- gerous rocks. 8, Bates' Island, close aboard, and connected by a bar to Ministerial Island, has 15 acres of low, indifferent land, and a dangerous projection of rocks from its southern extremity. It is distinguished by a house and large barn upon it. 9, Brown Cow, or Broken Cave, one mile S. of Bates' Island, and 1 mile and 1-4th N. E. of Jewel's Island, is formed of sunken rocks and brown backs crested in summer by a little herbage. 10, Northeast, one mile, is Eagle Island, of 5 acres, lying at the
Formerly " Mosiers."
t Between Crow Island and great Gebeag is a small good harbour.
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OF MAINE.
SECT. II.]
mouth of Broad sound ; it is a high Island, full of tall spruces, Casco bay. surrounded by dangerous rocks, and uninhabited. These ten Islands do not probably contain in aggregate more than 170 acres.
Between Broad sound and the northwesterly side, and south end of Merryconeag-peninsula, [Harpswell,] are twenty-five Isl- ands, of which we will take a passing view in proceeding north- eastwardly from Drunkers' Ledge, Mark Island Ledge and Ledges. Whale Rock. Little Mark Island one mile S. E. of Eagle island. Little Mark Island, of only 6 or 8 acres, is remarkable for the stone monu- ment or pyramid erected there by the United States, which is 18 feet square at its base and 50 feet in height. This is at the en- trance of Harpswell sound. North is Haskell's Island, of 120 Haskell's Island. acres, a mile long, and narrow, bearing 4 or 5 families, who live well by fishing and cultivating a good soil. At the N. E. end is a small harbour ; the rest of the shore is rocky. Haddock-rock, Great Mark is close aboard west ; and Great Mark Island is on the S. E. island. side of Haskell's Island, of 6 or 8 acres, admitting only a boat passage between them. It is low, ledgy and unproductive.
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