USA > Michigan > Kalamazoo County > Kalamazoo County, Michigan, rural directory, 1919 > Part 27
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307. Roselle: Its Culture and Uses.
310. A Successful Alabama Diversification Farm.
311. Sand-Clay and Burnt-Clay Roads.
312. A Successful Southern Hay Farm.
313. Harvesting and Storing Corn. 318. Cowpeas.
321. The Use of the Split-Log Drag on Roads
322. Milo as a Dry-Land Grain Crop. 324. Sweet Potatoes.
325. Small Farms in the Corn Belt.
326. Building up a Cotton Plantation. 328. Silver Fox Farming. 330. Deer Farming in the United States. 331. Forage Crops for Hogs in Kansas 332. Nuts and Their Uses as Food. 333. Cotton Wilt. 337. New England Dairy Farms.
338. Macadam Roads. 339. Alfalfa.
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341. The Basket Willow. 344. The Boll Weevil Problem. 345. Some Common Disinfectants.
346. The Computation of Rations.
347. The Repair of Farm Equipment. 348. Bacteria in Milk.
349. The Dairy Industry in the South.
350. The Dehorning of Cattle.
351. The Tuberculin Test of Cattle. 354. Onion Culture.
355. A Successful Poultry and Dairy Farm.
357. Methods of Poultry Management.
450. Some Facts About Malaria.
452. Capons and Caponizing.
453. Danger of Spread of Gypsy and Brown- Tail Moths.
454. A Successful New York Farm. 455. Red Clover.
456. Our Grosbeaks and Their Value.
458. The Best Two Sweet Sorghums. 459. Honse Flies.
460. Frames as a Factor in Truck Growing. 461. The Use of Concrete on the Farm.
462. The Utilization of Logged-Off Land. 463. The Sanitary Privy.
371. Drainage of Irrigated Lands. 372. Soy Beans.
373. Irrigation of Alfalfa.
375. Care of Food in the Home.
377. Harmfulness of Headache Mixtures.
378. Methods of Exterminating Texas-fever Tick. 379. Hog Cholera. 380. The Loco-weed Disease.
382. The AdnIteration of Forage-plant
Seeds.
383. How to Destroy English Sparrows. 385. Boys' and Girls' Agricultural Clubs. 386. Potato Culture on Farms of the West. 387. Preservative Treatment of Timbers. 389. Bread and Bread Making.
390. Pheasant Raising in the United States. 391. Economical Use of Meat in the Home. 392. Irrigation of Sugar Beets. 393. Habit-forming Agents. 394. Windmills in Irrigation.
395. Sixty-day and Kherson Oats. 396. The Muskrat.
398. Use of Commercial Fertilizers in the South.
496. Raising Hares and Rabbits. 498. Texas-fever Tick.
500. Control of the Boll Weevil. 501. Cotton Improvement. 502. Timothy in the Northwest. 503. Comb Honey.
219
interested inselamat winds
422. Demonstration Farms.
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KALAMAZOO COUNTY
The Babcock Milk Test
When a man begins to think of testing his cows and keeping a record of them, he is getting on higher ground. With- out recording the length of time a cow is in milk, her total milk production and its fat contents, no man is able to build up a great and paying herd. The use of the Babcock milk-testing machine may be learned by anybody. It is a centrifugal machine which holds an- nealed glass bottles that are carefully gauged and with measurements marked on their necks. The process was in- vented by Prof. S. M. Babcock, who gave it to the world without patenting it to make money for himself, and it has made millions of dollars for dairy- men.
To test milk, first carefully stir it from the bottom up, or pour it from pail to pail, but do not churn it. This is to mix it well and so get a true sample. As soon as it is quiet, suck up into the milk pipette more than enough to cover the mark, 17.5 cubic centimeters (c.c.), cap the end with the finger and slowly let the milk drip out until its upper level agrees with the mark. Then pipe it into one of the bottles of the ma- chine, where it will be safe from change, if needful, for a week.
If the test is to be made at once, pipe in a similar amount of sulphuric acid, taking care not to get it on the hands or clothes, as it is a powerful acid. When - putting it into the milk, let it flow down the inside of the bottle and not run directly into the milk, as this will blacken or burn the curd and prevent a clear reading. Acid and milk should be at 60 degrees temperature to produce clear readings. Buy acid with a specific gravity of about 1.82. As soon as the acid is added, take the bottle by the neck and gently swirl the contents until they are thoroughly mixed. The curd must
be fully dissolved. Then close the ma- chine and whirl the samples for five minutes at a speed of 700 to 1,200 revolu- tions per minute. Next, fill each bottle to the base of the neck with hot water and whirl for two minutes more. Then fill to about the seven per cent. mark and repeat the whirling for two minutes. The measuring of the fat must be made while the sample is hot. Measure from the top of the curved upper level. If the fat extends from 0 to 4 in the neck there is just four per cent. fat, or four pounds of fat in 100 pounds of the milk. If it should run from 2 to 7, the amount is five per cent. The scale is graduated so that tenths of pounds are as easily read as full pounds. A little practice with the machine will readily make any boy an expert in its use.
When testing milk it must not be forgotten that the fat contents do not measure the exact butter production. For instance, if milk is four per cent. fats it should make about four and one- half pounds of butter, because in all but- ter there is some water, salt and minute parts of other things like ash. If there was no loss in churning and the over- run were just sixteen per cent. (the law forbids it to be more), the amount would be four and sixty-four one-hundreths pounds. The buttermaker who is getting but 109 or 110 pounds of butter from 100 pounds of fats is not doing as well as he should. The loss of fats in the churning should never exceed one and one-half per cent. in the buttermilk, and may be less.
Any dairyman who does not own and operate a good Babcock milk tester and keep records of all of his individual cows, should not complain if his purse tells him that "farming doesn't pay," for in all untested herds are cows that eat up the profits which should go to the owner.
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RURAL DIRECTORY
Bell Phone 156-J
The Oman Shoe Store Vicksburg, Michigan
HARRISON DEALERS IN
& SON
LUMBER, LIME, CEMENT, PAINTS, Oils, Shingles, and Prepared Roofing of all kinds
Satisfaction
Guaranteed
SCHOOLCRAFT, MICH.
Phone, No. 122
F. F. WARD G. R. WALKER WARD and WALKER Shoes and Groceries Shippers Cream, Butter and Eggs SCHOOLCRAFT, - MICH. BELL BLOCK PHONE 15
JOHN N. REID Meadow Lawn Farm BREEDER OF Registered Holstein Cattle Stock For Sale
R. F. D. 1
BELL PHONE
VICKSBURG EX.
VICKSBURG, MICH.
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KALAMAZOO COUNTY
How to Have Good Roads
The construction and maintenance of earth roads is a vital topic in every rural community. The most practical and successful system is that which originated with Mr. D. Ward King, and which is now in general use all over the country.
The keynote, or basis, of Mr. King's system is a simply-made road drag, fash- ioned from a split log about eight feet long, with the two parts about two and one-half feet apart. Any farmer can make one of these drags for himself, at a cost of a dollar or so-or less.
Speaking of this system, the Iowa Highway Commission says in a bulletin issued by the engineering department of Iowa State College :
"Water is the foe to good earth roads, and the whole object of earth road con- struction and maintenance is to get rid of the water and its bad effects. Three systems of drainage are needed :
"First, Tile or Sub-drainage. Wher- ever the soil is naturally wet from ground water, a line of four-inch tile should be laid to a regular grade longi- tudinally along the uphill side of the road, under the side ditch, at a denth of three to four feet.
"Second, Side Ditches. A good, big, side ditch, built to a continuous grade as determined by a road level, so that the water will not stand in it at any point, should be provided on each side of the road. The road level should be used to make sure that the ditch is built to a grade which will not leave ponds of water in the ditches after rains. "Third, Surface Drainage. Proper surface drainage, . to shed the water promptly into the side ditches, should be provided by properly crowning the road, and by then keeping it hard and smooth with a King road drag. This drag is the cheapest instrument we have found for this purpose. The annual cost per mile of road treated with the King road drag, where all the time has been paid for by the hour, has not been found to exceed $2.50 to $3.00.
"We advise farmers to start using the
drag without waiting for the road offi- cers to take it up. They will be well repaid for their trouble by the saving of time and expense in using the roads, and the increase in value of their land, due to a good road in front of it.
"We also advise road officers to adopt the road drag, and to provide farmers with free materials to make them, and to hire the roads dragged where the farmers do not themselves undertake the work. There is no possible use of „the road funds known to us which will yield such great returns for so small an outlay. In fact, the outlay will be more than saved by the lessened need for the big road grader, with its great cost of operation.
"Gravel roads, when cut up an inch or two deep in continued wet weather, should be gone over at such times with a King drag, the same as an earth road."
The correct method of using the King drag is about as follows :
Begin operations at once, and do not entirely abandon the work except when ground is solidly frozen. A few min- utes' or hours' work, now and then, is better than a week's work all at once.
After each rain or wet spell drive up one wheel track and back on the other at least once, with the drag in position to throw the earth to the center. Ride on the drag. Haul at an angle of 45 degrees. Lay boards on the drag to stand on. Gradually widen the strip dragged as the road improves. To round up the road better, plow a shallow fur- row occasionally each side of the dragged strip, and spread the loose dirt toward the center.
Thus the road gradually. becomes smooth, hard, and almost impervious to water. Rains run off the rounded road- bed, like water from a duck's back. By using the drag when the road is muddy (as advised) the earth packs and cements itself into a hard and nearly waterproof surface. And that is the idea, in a nutshell. 'Tis plain to see that if water can find no place to stand, no chuck-holes or ruts can develop.
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RURAL DIRECTORY
C. M. BRADISH & SON General Merchandise Boots, Shoes, Gents' Furnishings, Groceries AUGUSTA - MICHIGAN
A. L. Ashton Grain & Milling Co. Mfr. and Dealer in Jobbers of Spring, Winter & Blended Flour Feeds For All Needs
Office and Mill, 745 PORTAGE ST. BELL PHONE 104-J
KALAMAZOO
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MICHIGAN
Johnson-Howard Co. COAL FEED SEEDS
and
BUILDING
MATERIALS
Bell Telephones 384-2050
119-121 E. Water St.
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KALAMAZOO, MICHIGAN
C. A. FELLOWS, REAL ESTATE 117-118 Pratt Building KALAMAZOO, MICH.
City, Suburban and Farm Properties We own, and are selling some of the very best locations for Manu- facturing Enterprises, in or about Kalamazoo, also the best Subur- ban Lots at " starter prices." Correspondence solicited.
Western Farm Lands a Specialty Let Us Hear From You
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KALAMAZOO COUNTY
The Iceless Refrigerator
An inexpensive refrigerator, or milk cooler, consists of a wooden frame cov- ered with Canton flannel. Wicks made of the same material as the covering rest in a pan of water on top of the refrigerator, allowing the water to seep down the sides. When evaporation takes place the heat is taken from the inside, consequently lowering the temperature. On dry, hot days a temperature of 50 degrees can be obtained in this refriger- ator. The following description will aid in the construction of this device:
Make a screened case three and a half feet high, with the other dimensions twelve by fifteen inches. Place two mov- able shelves in the frame, twelve to fif- teen inches apart. Use a pan twelve inches square on the top to hold the water, and where the refrigerator is to be used indoors have the whole thing standing in a large pan to catch any drip. The pans and case may be painted white, allowed to dry, and then enameled.
A covering of white Canton flannel should be made to fit the frame. Have the smooth side out and fasten the cov- ering on the frame with buttons or hooks, arranged so that the door may be opened without unfastening them. This can be done by putting one row of hooks on the edge of the door near the latch and the other just opposite the opening, with the hem on each side ex- tending far enough to cover the crack at the edge of the door, keeping out the warm, outside air and retaining the cooled air. The covering will have to be hooked around the top edge also.
Two double strips, one-half the width of each side, should be sewed on the top of each side and allowed to extend over about three inches in the pan of water. The bottom of the covering should ex- tend to the lower edge of the case. Place
the refrigerator in a shady place where air will circulate around it freely. If buttons and buttonholes are used, the cost should not exceed eighty-five cents.
Testing Seed Corn
12
3
13
4 14!
5 15
6
16
17
Every ear of corn, whether old or new, should be tested. Now is the time to make the tests before the rush of spring work comes on. The "rag doll" method is tlie cheapest, simplest way of testing.
i7 Take strips of heavy, 8 18 unbleached muslin, 12 x 54 19: inches. Mark down the 10 20 middle lengthwise with a lead-pencil, and then crosswise every three inches, beginning twelve inches from one end and making eleven lines. Number the twenty divisions, and at the same time number twenty ears of corn to be tested. Take six grains from ear No. 1 (two from near tip, two from middle and two from near butt), no two kernels from same row, and place them on division No. 1 on the cloth, with tips of all kernels pointing the same way, crosswise of the cloth. Place kernels from No. 2 on space No. 2, and so on for all the ears.
Next place a handful of moist sawdust on a piece of blotting paper on one end of the cloth and roll the rag around it carefully so the kernels will not be dis- placed; roll fairly compact but not too tight. Tie the "rag doll" at both ends. Soak it in lukewarm water over night, drain for half an hour, and stand it on end in a pail lined with a wet cloth- tips of kernels pointing down. A few pieces of brick in the bottom of the pail will afford air circulation and drain- age. Fold the pail cloth-lining over the top, put a fairly heavy dry cloth over the pail, set it in a warm place, and moisten the cloths with warm water every day. In seven days, when the sprouts will be about two inches long, take the doll out and unroll carefully. Any ear whose kernels have not grown vigorously should be thrown out. Be careful to throw away the right ear.
Make six or eight "dolls"-a pailful- at the same time. To prevent mold, scald all the cloths used.
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RURAL DIRECTORY
Good Clothes
for MEN and BOYS
Since 1884 SAMUEL FOLZ Corner KALAMAZOO, MICH. >> E. Main and Portage Streets
Big
Bestervelť's
WHOLESALE AND RETAIL
MARKET & GROCERY 114 and 116 W. Water St. KALAMAZOO, MICH.
KALAMAZOO
Bell Phone
219-221
LAUNDRY 146
North Rose Street
COMPANY
KALAMAZOO,
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MICHIGAN
BELL TELEPHONE 264 F. W. RUSSELL PAINTS AND WALL PAPER 208-210 N. BURDICK ST. KALAMAZOO, MICH.
225
KALAMAZOO COUNTY
Hotbeds
There is one easy, sure way to make a hotbed, and here it is:
A hotbed is nothing more than a board-edged pit, in which there is fer- menting horse manure covered with sev- eral inches of soil. The top of the hot- bed is roofed with one or more sashes, which usually measure about 3 x 6 feet each. At night a straw or other mat is laid over the glass to keep out the cold.
BASH
CROWO LEYD
MANURE
Hotbeds are usually made of one-inch boards. If the boards on the back of the frame are twelve inches above ground, those in front should be several inches lower, thus giving a slant to the sashes, enabling water to run off quickly.
.
· Throw the manure into the hotbed pit in successive layers, continuously tramp- ing. Fill the pit to within four or five inches of the top of the frame on the front side. The manure will settle sev- eral inches before time for sowing the seed. Place sashes on the frame imme- diately after filling.
Tree-Pruning Hints
Spring is a good time to prune trees, unless you prefer to wait until June. The rule is that spring pruning induces wood growth and June pruning induces fruit growth. Of course, on young trees you should want only wood growth until they are good-sized and fully able to endure the strain of fruit bearing. Some growers do part of their pruning in March and part in June.
Don't prune mature trees too severely. A tree must have some place upon which to produce its fruit; otherwise it will produce water-sprouts instead of fruit.
Don't prune off a single branch unless you know just why you are removing it and why you are removing that particu- lar branch in preference to some other.
Don't neglect to paint all large wounds. Painting will improve the ap- pearance, prevent decay, prevent evapo- ration of the tree's supply of moisture, and facilitate healing.
Above all, don't allow any man to prune your trees if his chief recom- mendation is his ability to handle an ax and a saw.
Don't prune your trees because some one else thinks they need pruning. He may not know any more about them than you do.
Don't prune your trees unless you can tell the difference between a dead and a living branch, between a bearing and a. non-bearing branch, between a fruit-spur and a water-sprout, and between a fruit- bud and a leaf-bud.
Don't prune off the large limbs when equally good results can be had by re- moving a few of the smaller limbs. The large ones form the framework of the tree and are needed to support the bear- ing branches.
It is sometimes stated that the fruit- growers of the Pacific slope, who pro- duce some of the finest fruit in the world, prune away "nearly half of the tops of their trees" every year. They do nothing of the kind. They remove. from one-quarter to two-thirds of the annual terminal growth of the previous season. But they give their trees cul- ture that causes the trees to make a terminal growth of from two to three, and often four, feet. The average east- ern farmer gives his trees only enough care to permit the growth of four or five inches of terminal growth; and so his tree tops do not need the same treat- ment that a larger growth would require.
Trim fruit trees a little every year,. rather than much in any one year. Peach trees require more pruning than most trees; at least one-half of the length of the new growth should be re- moved each season. Cherry trees re- quire the least pruning; merely cut out dead, broken or "crossed" limbs. Other trees need a judicious thinning-out and, sometimes, cutting-back. Avoid cutting . so as to leave "stubs"; make neat cuts close to union.
The harder you prune the more suck- ers you will have; don't overdo a good thing.
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RURAL DIRECTORY
THE SPRAGUE HARDWARE CO. General Hardware and Bicycles
Eavestroughing and Ajax & Empire FURNACES 308 W. Main St., KALAMAZOO, MICH.
GENEROUS CREDIT TERMS Gold Certificate Clothing One Outfitters for the Entire Family Hundred Ștores
ADELBERG & BERMAN Inc., Props.
The Union Store W. B. TALBOTT, Mgr. 304-306 N. BURDICK STREET KALAMAZOO -
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MICHIGAN
STATE BANK of AUGUSTA NEAREST BANK TO CAMP CUSTER
Commercial and Savings Department
With as liberal a policy as is consistent with safe banking
4% paid on Time Deposits
AUGUSTA
MICHIGAN
ISLAND CREAMERY
FANCY PASTEURIZED CREAMERY BUTTER Highest market price for cream Citizens Phone No. 58 SCHOOLCRAFT, MICH.
227
KALAMAZOO COUNTY
Troublesome Pests-Rats
At one time our premises were so over-run with rats that we sustained quite a loss from their devastation. A plan for their destruction was devised, as follows: Filling an iron kettle three- fourths full of barn sweepings, corn- cobs and a little mixed grain, we set it in an empty stall in the horse stable where the rats seemed to predominate most, and left it this way for some time, keeping plenty of grain in with the rub- bish as an enticement for the rats. We laid several boards sloping from the kettle to the floor, so that the rats could easily run up and down and into the kettle.
At the end of about two weeks, or when we thought a great number of rats had become accustomed to frequent the kettle, we emptied the kettle of its rubbish contents and filled it three- fourths full of water and covered the water about an inch or more with light chaff, leaving no water exposed. (If water remains entirely undisturbed the chaff will not sink over night.) On the chaff we scattered a little light grain. There was something going on, that night ! The rats had a party or some- thing; at any rate, the next morning when we went to fishing we scooped out about a half bushel of rats, big and little. The next morning our haul was not quite so large, but we got quite a number; and so on until the rats either got wise or there were no more rats. If we did not get all, we at. least got a large majority of them.
At another time when rats were get- ting altogether too plentiful, we caught a rat in a box trap. This rat we let run into a grain bag and there we caught it by the nape of its neck, guarding care- fully against being bitten; then we let all but the head and neck come out of the bag and painted all of the exposed parts of the rat thoroughly with tar, and let the rodent go. We had heard that doing this to one rat and letting it go would clean the premises of all other rats, as they object to the smell of tar, or are frightened at the strange appear- ance of one of their party. It seemed
to work in our case, and work well. We had no trouble with rats for several years after that. Lonesome, heart- broken, or what, I don't know; but one morning shortly after we had tarred this rat we caught the same fellow again in the same trap we had caught it in before. However, this time we did not let it go.
It seems that in no other place are rats so hard to catch as in the cellar. Located there they seem to be able to evade all traps and trapping. But I found a way to get Mr. Rat in the cellar. I set a steel trap and put it in a shallow, discarded bread-pan, and covered the trap completely with wheat bran; the bran being light, did not spring the trap nor hinder the working of it. Over and about the trap on the bran I scattered a few bread-crumbs or meat scraps. This method has never failed me in getting rats in the cellar; although it has when tried in other places. The bran and the foregoing baits differed so much from the edibles the rats in the cellar were accustomed to diet on, that they jumped for the chance of a change, and conse- quently were easily caught in this manner.
I have found that rats often gain en- trance to a cellar through the cellar drain, and for this reason the outlet to the drain should be screened so that no rats can enter.
Chloride of lime, if generously sprinkled over the runways of rats, will also clear the premises of the pests. It gets into their nostrils and burns their feet. Rather than brave many repeti- tions of it, they leave the premises.
Prevention is sometimes better than cure. Where possible to do it, use con- crete for floors, foundations, etc. The additional cost of thus making buildings rat-proof is slight as compared to the advantages. With cement even an old cellar may be made proof against these pests.
Rats are expensive, they are destroy- ers of property. They are a menace to health, carrying in their fur disease germs; they are transmitters of plagues, a general nuisance-biff the rat !
228
RURAL DIRECTORY
AUGUSTA PHARMACY
F. E. HUTCHINGS, Manager
Drugs and Drug Sundries
Bell Phone 28 F 2 Citizens Phone 29
Near Camp Custer AUGUSTA, MICHIGAN
MOREAU-ALDRICH CO. -INCORPORATED Dry Goods, Groceries, Furniture Hardware, Stoves, Automobiles Farm Implements, Paints and Oils AUGUSTA - MICHIGAN
C. C. HUSTON FLOUR MILLS C. C. HUSTON, Prop. and Mfr. High Grades Flour from Michigan Wheat Portage St. and Alcott Ave. Kalamazoo, Michigan Mill Telephone, Bell 5236-J
GORMAN CYCLE CO.
Bicycles and Sporting Goods GENERAL REPAIRING
118 N. Rose St.
Kalamazoo, Michigan
Bell Phone, 2402-J
229
KALAMAZOO COUNTY
Weevils
Grain infested with weevils loses in weight, is undesirable for seed, and is unfit for human consumption. Nor is such grain good feed for livestock. Mil- lions of dollars are lost each year, sim- ply because many farmers do not under- stand how to deal with the weevils.
The mature Granary Weevil is only about one-sixth of an inch in length, and the color is a shining chestnut brown. This species is unable to fly; but it doesn't worry on that account. No, indeed! For it easily makes up, in grain-puncturing and egg-laying power, all that it lacks in wing power.
The female Granary Weevil attacks all kinds of grain, but prefers that which is husked. After puncturing the grain she inserts an egg; this hatches into a larva that devours the mealy interior. This egg-laying process is continued for an extended period, and in a single sea- son one pair of weevils will, it is esti- mated, produce 6000 descendants !
The Angoumois Grain Moth came to this country from France, nearly two hundred years ago. The color is light grayish brown, lined and spotted with black. This insect is very apt to deposit its eggs in unthreshed grain in stack or mow. Where the moths appear in force it is wise to thresh the grain quickly and hurry it to the mill, rather than attempt to store it.
Now for general remedies. Careful attention to the following preventive measures may bring partial relief :
First: Never store fresh grain in bins or granaries (or even under the same roof) where there is, or has been, wee- viled grain. Before using such storage places remove all old grain and thor- oughly scrub, clean and fumigate the bins, using bisulphide of carbon.
Second: Remember that damp, warm bins foster the rapid increase of insect life. Endeavor to have the granary cool and dry.
Third: Build the granary as nearly vermin-proof as is possible. Cover win- dows with fine wire gauze. See that doors, floors, walls, and ceilings are tight.
As regards aggressive remedies, there is one which is a grand success-carbon bisulphide. This is a colorless liquid which rapidly vaporizes into a heavy gas which works downward. Rightly ap- plied to infested grain or seed, the cost is slight, and no injury results to edible or germinative qualities.
How to use bisulphide: See that the grain receptacle can be tightly closed. Figure out the cubical contents of the_ receptacle or bin, and apply the bisul- phide at the rate of about one pound for each 1000 cubic feet of interior space. Place the liquid on top of the grain, in shallow pans; about a teacupful in each. Then quickly close the bin for twenty- four hours.
Cautions : The vapor is highly inflam- mable and poisonous. Do not breathe it, nor allow any light near. Thoroughly air the bin or building after fumigation.
Cabbage Worm
This pest is the larva or caterpillar of a white butterfly which appears early in the season and which can be seen flying about cabbage fields until late in the fall.
Remedies : The main secret of success is regular, persistent treatment nearly every week. One treatment alone does little good, owing to the fact that new egg supplies are being placed on the cab- bages by the butterflies all summer. There are many remedies, and below we give some of the safest and best known:
Pyrethrum (also called California buhach and Persian insect powder). This may be diluted with five or six times its bulk of flour, and dusted on the plants in the evening or early morn- ing when wet with dew; or it may be mixed with water-one ounce to four gallons-and sprayed on at any time.
Hot water: Water at a temperature of 130 degrees will kill every worm it touches without injuring the plants.
Kerosene emulsion: An excellent remedy while the plants are young, but may give the heads a bad taste if used too late in the season.
Air-slaked lime: Some growers say that this (or, in fact, fine dry road dust, or any powdery substance) will kill every worm it covers.
Hand-picking: In small gardens, the worms can easily be controlled by pick- ing them off and killing them at regular intervals.
Preventive measures: The practice of leaving cabbage stalks in the field after the main crop is off is a reprehensible one. All remnants should be gathered and destroyed, with the exception of a few left at regular intervals through a field as lures for the females to deposit their eggs. Such stalks, being useless, should be burned later on.
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RURAL DIRECTORY
Stucco Your House With Stucco Shingles, Damp Proof 5c Per Roll Discount For Doing Your Own Delivery
KALAMAZOO ROOFING CO.
Bell Phone 596
J. C. EDDEN, Manager
Res. Phone 1112
Roofing, Shingles, Wall Board, General Roof
Repairing and Contracting
KALAMAZOO
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MICHIGAN
Celery City Moving Co. LONG DISTANCE MOVING AND FURNITURE PACKING A SPECIALTY KALAMAZOO _ MICH.
P. MEINTS, RETAILER Boots, Shoes, Dry Goods & Notions Shoe Repairing a Specialty 739-741 Portage St. Kalamazoo, Michigan Bell Telephone 1504-J
A. T. FITZGERALD WALL PAPER AND PAINTS HIGH CLASS DECORATING Bell Telephone, 2029-J GET OUR PRICES
536 Portage Street
Kalamazoo, Michigan
231
KALAMAZOO COUNTY
Troublesome Pests-Roach .
The ordinary roach or cockroach comes of an ancient (although not distinguished !) lineage which dates back farther than the "family tree" of the proudest human family. Fos- sil remains prove that this insect existed away back in the Carbon- iferous age.
About 5000 different species of the roach family are believed to exist in different parts of the world, most of which, however, live out- of-doors and subsist on vegetation. Only a very few species are en- gaged in making trouble for good housewives.
Roaches are lovers of the dark ; it is then they roam around pantry and rooms in search of mischief and food. At the approach of a light they scurry away, like a pack of cow- ardly thieves. Any kind of food tastes good to them, whether it be shoe leather, apple dumpling, or book covers. Toothache, loss of appetite, or dyspepsia are, we be- lieve, unknown to the roach family.
But the roach has one good point. Alas, only one. It is this: He has a fondness for bed bugs, and, by eating them, he often does the housewife a real favor.
Now we come to "remedies," and here the trouble begins. Nothing short of eternal vigilance will rid a house of these pests when once they gain a foothold.
Unfortunately (for the house- wife) the roach seems to be en- dowed with remarkable intelligence
as regards poisoned foods. Arsenic, no matter how disguised, he refuses (with thanks) nearly every time. However, it is said that a prepara- tion of sweetened flour paste con- taining phosphorous will often fool him.
Another remedy often used is fresh pyrethrum powder or buhach. This, when liberally dusted on shelves, etc., usually affords tem- porary or partial relief. A better use of this powder, however, is to burn a quantity of it in an infested room, and then tightly close the apartment for ten hours. Bisulphide of carbon is sometimes used in this way, also, but its vapor is more dangerous to have in a dwelling house.
Trapping the insects is another remedy. Roach traps may easily be made at home, as follows. Take any deep vessel or jar and place it where the roaches congregate. Fill it partly full of sweetened, liquid paste. Then take several thin, nar- row pieces of wood, bend each one into an inverted V, and hang them on the jar-one end almost in the liquid, the other on the shelf or floor. The idea is to make several "gang planks" up which the roaches can crawl, with a steeper gangway inside, down which they will slide into the liquid-never to return.
Some of the prepared "roach powders" that are on the market are also effective when perfectly fresh.
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