USA > Mississippi > History of the upper Mississippi Valley, pt 1 > Part 29
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knocking he was admitted, and cordially greeted by Hugh MeGillis, the principal trader of the North West Company, west of Lake Superior, be- ing the Director of the Fond du Lae Department.
The following extracts from his journal will be read with interest: "February 9th, Sunday. Mr. MeGillis and myself paid a visit to Mr. Anderson, an agent of Mr. Dickson, of the Lower Missis- sippi, who resided at the West end of the lake. Found him elegibly situated as to trade, but his houses bad.
" February 10th, Monday. Hoisted the Ameri- can flag in the fort. The English yacht still ily- ing at the top of the tlag-staff, I directed the In- dians and my riflemen to shoot at it, who soon broke the iron pin to which it was fastened, and brought it to the ground.
"February 14th, Friday. Left the house at 9 o'eloek. It becomes one here to do justice to the hospitality of our hosts; one Roy, a Canadian, and his wife, a Chippeway squaw. They relin- quished for our use the only thing in the house, that could be ealled a bed; attending us like servants, nor eould either of them be pursuaded to touch a mouthful until we had finished our re- past. We made the garison abont sundown, hav- ing been drawn at least ten miles by two small dogs; who were loaded with two hundred pounds, and went so fast as to render it difficult for the men with snow-shoes to keep up with them. The chiefs asked my permission to dance the calumet danec which I granted.
"February 15th, Saturday. The Flat Mouth chief of the Leech Lake village, and many other Indians arrived. Noted down the heads of my speceh, and had it translated into French, in or- der that the interpreter should be perfect master of his subject. Received a letter from Mr. Me- Gillis.
" February 16th, Sunday. Held a conneil with the chief's and warriors at this place, and of Red
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PIKE AT RED CEDAR LAKE.
Lake; but it required much patience, coolness, mid management to obtain the object I desired, viz: That they shonkl make peace with the Sioux; deliver up their medals and flag, and that some of their chiefs should follow me to St. Lonis. As proof of their agreeing to the peace, I dirceted that they should smoke out of the Wabasha's pipe, which lay upon the table; they all smoked from the head chief to the youngest soldier; they generally delivered up their flags with a good grace, except the Flat Month, who said he had left both at his camp, three days' march, and promised to deliver them up to Mr. McGillis, to be forwarded. With respect to their returning with me; the old Sweet thought it most proper to return to the Indians of the Red Lake, Red River, and Rainy Lake River, The Flat Month said it was necessary for him to restrain his young wor- riors, ete. The other chiefs did not think them- selves of eonsequence sufficient to offer any rea- son for not following me to St. Louis, a journey of between two and three thousand miles through hostile tribes of Indians. I then told them, "that I was sorry to find that the hearts of the Sanfeurs of this quarter were so weak that the other na- tions could say, What, are there no Indians at Leech. Red, and Rainy Lakes who had the heart to carry the calumet of their chief to ther father?"
This had the desired effect. The Bucks and Beans, two of the most celebrated young war- riors, rose and offered themselves to me for the embassy ; they were accepted; adopted as my own children, and I installed as their father. Their example animated the others, and it would have been no difficult matter to have taken a company; two, however, were sufficient. T determined that it should be my cure never to make them regret the noble confidences placed in me; for I would have protected their lives with my own. The Beaux in brother to the Flat Month. Gave my new soldiers a dance, and a small dram. They attempted to get more liquor, but a firm and per- emptory denial convinced them I was not to be trillled with.
"February 18th, Tuesday. We marched for Red Cedar lake about 11 o'clock, with a guide, pro- vided for me by Mr. M'Giltis; were all provided with snow-shoes; marched off admidst the accla- mations and shouts of the Indians, who generally remained to see na off. Mr. Anderson promised to come on with letters; he arrived about 12 o'clock
and remained all night. He conchided to go down with us, to see Mr. Dickson.
"February 19th, Wednesday. Bradley, Mr. L'Rone, the two Indians, and myself, left Mr. M'Gillis at 10 o'clock; crossed Leech Lake, in a sontheast direction, 24 miles. Mr. M'Gillis' hos- pitality deserves to be particularly noticed; he presented me with his dogs and cariole, valued in this country at two hundred dollars; one of the dogs broke out of his harness, and we were not able, during that day, to catch him again, and the other poor fellow was obliged to pull. the whole load, at least 150 pounds.
This day's march was from Lake to Lakc.
"February 24th, Monday. We started early, and after passing over one of the worst roads in the world, found ourselves on a lake, about 2 o'clock; took its outlet and struck the Mississippi abont one mile below the eanoes mentioned on the 1st of January, by which I knew where we were. Ascended the Mississippi abont four miles, and camped on the West side. Our general course, this day, was nearly sonth, when it should have been southeast. My young warriors were still in good heart, singing, and showing every wish to keep me so. The pressure of racket strings brought the blood through my socks and mocca- sins, from which, the pain I marehed in, may be imagined.
February 25th, Tuesday. . We marched and arrived at Cedar Lake before noon; found Mr. Grant and De Breche (chief of Sandy Lako) at the house. This gave one much pleasure, for I conceive Mr. Grant to be a gentleman of as much candor as any with whom I had made an acquaint- ance on this question, and the chief ( De Breche) is reputed to be a man of better information than any of the Santeurs.
" March 3d, Monday. Mareted carly; passed our Christmas encampment at sunrise. I was ahead of my party in my cariole. Soon after- wards I observed smoke on the West shore. 1 halloed, and some Indians appeared on the bank. I waited until my interpreter came up; we then went into camp. They proved to be a party of Chippewas, who had left the encampment the same day we left it. They presented me with some roast meat, which I gave to my sleigh dogs. They then left their camp, and accompanied us down the river. We passed our encampment of the 24th of December, at. 11 o'clock, of the 23d at 10 o'clock, and of the 224 at 11 o'clock; here the
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HISTORY OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI VALLEY.
Indians crossed on the West shore; arrived at the encampment of the 21st of December at 12 o'clock, where we had a barrel of flour. I here found Corporal Meek, and another man, from the post, from whom Iheard that the men were all well. They confirmed the account of a Sioux having fired on a sentinel, and added that the sentinel had first made him drunk, and then turned him ont of the tent, npon which he fired on the senti- nel and ran off, but promised to deliver himself up in the spring. The corporal imformed me that the sergeant had nsed all his elegant hams and saddles of venison, which I had preserved to pre- sent to the commander-in-chief, and other friends; that he had made way with all the whisky, includ- ing a keg I had for my own nse, having publicly sold it to the men, and a barrel of pork; that he had broken open my trunk and sold some things ont of it, traded with the Indians, gave them liquors, etc., and this, too, contrary to my most pointed and particular directions.
This, after I had used in gonig mp the river with my party, the strictest economy, living upon two pounds of frozen venison a day, in order that we might have provision to carry ns down in the spring, this fellow was squandering away the flour, pork and liquor during the winter, and while we were starving with lunger and cold. had saved all our corn, bacon, and the meat of six deer, and left it at Sandy Lake, with some tents, my mess boxes, salt, tobacco, etc., all of which we were obliged to sacrifice by not returning the same route we went, and we consoled ourselves at this loss by the flattering idea that we should find at our little post a handsome stock preserved. How mortifying the disappointment! We raised our barrel of flour, and came down to the mouth of n little river, on the East, which we passed on the 21st December. The ice covered with water. " March 5th, Wednesday. Passed all the eu- campments between Pine Creek and the post, at which we arrived at 10 o'clock. I sent a man on ahead to prevent the salute I had before ordered by letter; this I did from the idea that the Sioux chiots wouldt accompany me. Confined my ser- geant. Abont 10 o'clock Mr. Dickson arrived, with the Killeur Ronge, his son and two other Sionx men, with two women, who had come up to be introdneed to the Santours they had expected to find with me. Received a letter from Rein- ville,
" March 15th, Saturday. This was the day fixed
upon by Mr. Grant and the Chippeway warriors for their arrival at my fort, and I was all day anxiously expecting them, for I knew that should they not accompany me down, the peace partially effected between them and the Sionx would not be on a permanent footing, and on this I take them to be neither so brave nor so generons as the Sionx, who, in all their transactions, appear to be candid and brave, whereas the Chippeways are sus- picions, consequently treacherous, and, of course, cowardly.
" March 17th, Monday. Left the Fort with my interpreter and Roy, in order to visit Thomas, the Fols Avoin chief, who was encamped, with six lodges of his nation, abont twenty miles below us, on a little river which empties into the Mississippi, on the West side, a little above Clear River. On our way down killed one goose, wounded another, and a deer that the dogs had driven into an air- hole; hung our game on the trees. Arrived at the ereek; ascended three or four miles on one bank, and descended on the other. Killed an- other goose. Ate our goose for supper. It snowett all day, and at night a very severe storm arose. It may be imagined that we spent a very disa- grecable night, without shelter, and but one blanket cach.
" March 18th, Tuesday. We marched, deter- mined to find the lodges. Met an Indian, whose track we pursued throngh almost interminable woods, for about two-and-a-half miles, to the camps. Here there was one of the finest sugar camps I almost ever saw, the whole of the timber being sugar tree. We were condneted to the chief's lodge, who received ns in the patriarchal style. He pulled off my leggins and mockinsons, put me in the best place in his lodge, and offered me dry clothes. Ite then presented us with the syrup of the maple to drink, then asked whether I preferred eating beaver, swan, elk or deer; npon my giving preference to the first, a large kettle was filled by his wife, of which soup was made; this being thickened with flour, we had what I then thought a delicious repast. After we had refreshed ourselves, he asked whether we would visit his people at the other lodges, which we did, and in each were presented with something to cat, by some with a bowl of sugar, others, a beaver's tail, cte. After making this tour, we returned to the chief's lodge, and found a good berth provided. for each of us, of good soft bearskins, nicely spread, and on which there was a large feather
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INDIAN IDEAS OF CHASTITY.
pillow. I must not here omit to mention an anec- dote which serves to characterize, more particu- larly, their manners. This, in the eyes of the con- tracled moralisl, would deform my hospitable host into a monster of liberlinism; bul by n liberal mind would be considered as arising from the hearty generosity of The wild savage. In the course of the day, observing a ring npon one of my fingers, he inquired it it was gold; he was told it was the gift of one with whom I should be happy to be with at that time. He seemed to think seriously, and at night told my interpreter " that perhap his father " ( as they called me ) " telt much grieved for the want of a woman; if so, he could furnish him with one." He was answered that with us, each man had but one wife, and that I considered it strictly my duty to remain faithful to her. This he thought strange ( he himself hav- ing three ) and replied that " he knew some Amer- icans at his nation, who had half-a-dozen wives during the winter." The interpreter observed that they were men without character, but that all our great men had each but one wife. The chief ac- quicseed, but said he liked beller lo have as many as he pleased. This conversation passed without any appeal to me, as the interpreter knew my mind on those occasions, and answered immedi- ately, it did not appear as an immediate refusal of ' the woman. Continued snowing very hard all day. Slept very warm.
" March 29th, Saturday. We all marched in the morning, Mr. Grant and party for Sandy Lake, and I for my hunting camp. I gave him my spaniel dog. Ile joined me again after we had separaled about five miles. Arrived at my hut- ing camp about cight o'clock in the morning, and was informed that my hunters had gone to bring in a deer; they arrived with it, and abont cleven o'clock we all went out hunting. Saw but few deer, ont of which I had the good fortune to kill two. On our arrival at camp found one of my men at the garrison with a letter from Mr. Dick- son. The soldier informed me that one Sions had arrived with Mr. Dickson's mon. Although inneh l'aligned, soon as I had eaten something, I took one of my men and deparled for the garrison one hour before sundown. The distance was twenty- one miles, and the ice very dangerous, being roflen, and the water. over it nearly a fool deep; we had sticks in our hands, and in many places ran them through the ice. Il Hundered and
lightninged, with rain. The Sioux not finding the Sauteurs had returned immediately.
"March 30th, Sunday. Wrote to Mr. Dickson and dispatched his man. Considerably stiff from my yesterday's march. Caulked our boats, as the ice had every appearance of breaking in a low days. Thus whilst on the wing of eager experta- tion, every day seemed an age. Received two deer and a half from our hunting eamp.
" April 7th, Monday. Loaded our boats and de- parted forty minutes past ten o'clock. At one o'clock arrived at Clear River, where we found my canoe and man. Although I had promised the Fols Avoins chiet to remain one night, yet time was too precious, and we put off; passed the Grand Rapids, and arrived at Mr. Dickson's just before sundown; we were sahited with three rounds, and he treated all my men with a supper and a dram. Mr. Dickson, Mr. Panlier [ Porlier ] and myself sat up until four o'clock in the morning.
" April 8th, Tuesday. Were obliged to remain this day on account of some information to be ob- tained here. I spent the day in making a rough chart of St. Peters, making notes on the Sionx, Ke., settling the affairs of the Indian department with Mr. Dickson, for whose communications, and those of Mr. Panlier, I am infinitely indebted. Made every necessary preparation for an early embarkation.
"April 9th, Wednesday. Rose early in the morn- ing and commeneed my arrangements. Having observed two Indians drunk, during the night, and finding upon inquiry that the liquor had been furnished them by a Mr. Greignor, or Jenesse, I sent my interpreter to them to request that they would not sell any strong liquor to the Indians, upon which Mr. Jeunesse demanded the restric- lious in writing, which were given to him. On demanding his license, it amounted to no more than merely a certificate that he had paid the tax required by law of the Indiana territory ou all re- tailers of merchandise, but it was by no means an Indian license; however, I did not think proper to go inlo a more close investigation. Last night it was so cold that The water was covered with float- ing cakes of ice of a strong consistence. After re- ceiving every mark of attention from Messes. Dickson and Panlier, I look my departure at eight o'clock. At four P. M. arrived at the house of Mr. Panlier, Iwenty-tive leagues, to whose brother I had a letter. Was received with politeness by him and a Mr. Vean; wintered along side of him
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HISTORY OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI VALLEY.
on the very island at which we had encamped in ascending.
"April 10th, Thursday. Sailed at half past five o'clock ; about seven passed Rum River, and at eight were saluted by six or seven lodges of Fols Avoins, amongst whom was a clerk of Mr. Dick- son's. Those people had wintered on Rum River, and were waiting for their chiefs and traders to deseend, in order to 'accompany them to the Prairie Des Chien. Arrived at the Falls of St. Anthony at ten o'clock. Carried over all our loading and the canoe to the lower end of the portage, and hauled our boats upon the bank. I pitched my tents at the lower end of the encamp- ment, where all the men eneamped except the guard, whose quarters were above. The appear- ance of the Fall was much more tremendous than where we ascended ; the increase of water occa- sioned the spray to raise much higher, and the mist appeared like clouds. How different my sensations now, from what they were when at
this place before ; at that time not having aecom- plished more than half my route, winter fast ap- proaching ; war existing between the most savage nations in the course of my route ; my provis- ions greatly diminished, and but a poor prospect of an additional supply ; many of my men sick, and the others not a little disheartened, and our suc- cess in this arduous undertaking, very doubtful ; just upon the borders of the haunts of civilized men, about to launch into an unknown wilderness, for ours was the first canoe that had ever erossed this portage, were sufficient to dispossess my breast of contentment and ease. But now we have accomplished every wish, peace reigns throughout the vast extent. We have returned thus far on our voyage, with the loss of a single
. man, and hoping soon to be blessed with the society of our relations and friends. The river this morning is covered with ice, which continued floating all day. The shores still barrieaded with it."
CHAPTER XXXIV.
EXPLORATION TO CASS LAKE, A. D. 1820.
CASS ARRIVES AT EXTREMITY OF LAKE SUPERIOR -- COUNCIL AT SANDY LAKE -SUFFERINGS OF THE CANADIAN MONTRUILLE -RED CEDAR CALLED CASS LAKE -LAST HERD OF BUFFALOES EAST OF MISSISSIPPI- NOTICE OF WILLIAM MORRISON AND J. IT. FAIRBANKS, EARLY TRADERS.
In the year 1819 the region east of the Missis- sippi, and west of Sault St. Marie, was attached to Michigan Territory. Lewis Cass, its first Gov- ernor, on November 18th 1819 in a letter from Detroit, to John C. Calhoun, then Secretary of War, wrote; "The country upon the southern shore of Lake Superior, and upon the water com- munications between that Lake and the Mississip- pi, has been but little explored, and its natural features are imperfectly known.
"They have no correct topographical delineation of it, and the little information we possess relating to it has been derived from the reports of the In- dian traders. It has occurred to me, that a tour through that country with a view to examine the prodnelions of its animal, vegetable, and mineral kingdoms; to explore its facilities for water com. immication; to delineate its natural objects; and
to ascertain its present and probable future value would not be interesting in itself, nor useless to the Government. Such an expedition would not be wholly unimportant in the public opinion, and would well accord with that zeal for inquiries of this nature, which has recently marked the admin- istration of the War Department."
These suggestions were approved, and on the morning of July 5th 1820, the forty-third day's journey from Detroit, Governor Cass und expedi- tion entered the Saint Lonis River of Minnesota. The party of exploration numbered fifty persons including soldiers and voyageurs, and the prin- cipal among these were Dr. Wolcott, Surgeon, and Indian Agent at Chicago, Captain Douglass, mil- itary Engineer, Henry R. Schooleratt, Mineralo- gist, James Doty Secretary of Expedition, Major Forsyth, Governors Secretary, und C. C. Trow- bridge, Topographier.
Three miles above the month of the Saint Louis, they found a Chippeway village of fourteen lodg- CH. Among the residents were the descendants of a negro named Bingo, or Bongo, servant of an old trader or officer who had brought him from the
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A PITIABLE SIGHT.
West Indies. A short distance above was a de- sorted fort of the North West Company. On the evening of the first day's ascent of the Saint Louis, they lodged at the American Fnr Company's fort twenty-four miles from the month of the river. The establishment consisted of log buildings eu- closing three sides of a square, open toward the river, containing the residence of the clerk, store- room, canoe and boat yards. There were then kept by the company three horses, two oxen, four bulls, and three cows.
On the 15th of July, the expedition reached Sandy Lake, and was received at the post of the American Fur Company, in the temporary absence of the trader Morrison, by two of his clerks, Ash- man and Fairbanks. This fort had been built by the North West Company, and is described upon the seventy-third page of this work.
Governor Cass was upon his arrival saluted by the Chippeways by a discharge of loaded guns. The population of the Indian village was one hun- dred and twenty and the principal chiets were Kadewabedas or Broken Teeth, called by the French Brochet, and Bubisekundeba or Curly Head.
On the sixteenth a council was held and Gover- nor Cass proposed that they should send a depu- tation of their best men to the mouth of the Min- nesota River, and make peace with the Sionx, to which they cheerfully assented. The next day the party accompanied by nineteen voyageurs and Indians, and provisions for twelve days, began their ascent of the Mississippi. On the nineteenth it was so cold near Pokeguma Rapids, that the ca- noes in the morning contained ice the thickness of a knife blade. Ou the twenty-first Red Cedar Lako was entered and at three o'clock in the after- noon, they cumpod ou the north eastern bank of the Lako near some log huts occupied by the two Canadians in the service of the American Fur Company. A small Chippeway village was in the vicinity, the Chief of which was Wiscoup, called Le Sucre by the French, and Sweet by the Eng- lish. One of the Canadians named Montrnille, the winter before had been caught in n snow storm, and his feel were frozen so badly that They slongh- ed off. For a time his Indian wife felt an interest in his sad condition, and supported him by catch- ing fish, but at last he became too great a burden and she left him. Unable to walk, for months he lived upon the grasses und coarse weeds about his hnt. Governor Cass found him seated on a mat
of rushes, with the stumps of his legs wrapped in deer skins. With long beard, sunken eyes, hol- low checks, and bones rendy to protrude through the skin, he recalled the description of Job the pa- triarch. His " flesh was clothed with worms and elods of dust; his skin was broken and loathsome; by night he was full of tossings to and fro, unto the dawning of the day." The sympathies of the party were fully aroused, presents were made to him, and n person engaged to take him to the Sandy Inke trading post.
Red Cedar Lake was the highest point reached by the Cass expedition. Mr. Schoolcraft writes "Having reached the ultimate geographical point visited by the expedition, I thought it due to the energy and enlightened zeal of the gentleman who had led us, to mark the event by naming this body of water in my Journal, Cassina or Cass Lake."
On the 24th of July the party returned to Sandy Lake, and the next day, with a delegation of Chippeways, they began the descent of the Mississippi. The principal chief who aecom- panied the expedition was Curly Head, the same person who in 1806 was met by Lieutenant, after- wards General, Pike, and was recognized by the Indians for his energy and bravery.
In the neighborhood of Little Falls, on the east side of the Mississippi, two herds of buffalo were observed, and some of the party proceeded to nttnek them. Since then a herd of buffalo has aover been seen east of the Mississippi. The sume day, about 3 o'clock in the afternoon, Curly Hend and the Chippeways found on a pole on a high prairie on the west side of the river, n piece of birch bark with inscriptions. A party of Sioux sent out by Col. Leavenworth, in command of troops nt the month of the Minnesota River, hud come lo this point and left the pictograph of birch bark nbont eighteen inches long and fifteen broad. The Sioux party had nminbered fifty-nine warriors, which was indicated by fifty-nine guns drawn in one corner. A chief was represented in the foreground with the pipe of peace in his right hand, and his weapons in the left.
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