USA > New Hampshire > Hillsborough County > Manchester > History of Manchester, formerly Derryfield, in New-Hampshire : including that of ancient Amoskeag, or the middle Merrimack Valley, together with the address, poem, and other proceedings of the centennial celebration of the incorporation of Derryfield at Manchester, October 22, 1851 > Part 69
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But the Cohas has gained the most notoriety as a fishing place. When its ba :: ks were first settled and for nearly a cen- tury afterwards, in the spring of the year, its waters were lit- erally filled with alewives, passing into the Massabesic to de- posit their spawns. This stream is frequented the more by these fish, from the fact that a large lake for these deposits was accessible so near the salt water, and so near the Merrimack, ' up which instinctled them in myriads, in search of still, fresh water. They were so plentiful in this stream in the spring, that the water was literally black with them, and the bottom oftentimes could not be seen for fish ! They were taken at the falls with scoop-nets, and oftentimes were thrown out by the women and children with "shod-shovels and fire-slices." They were so readily taken here, and in such abundance, that people
660
THE HISTORY OF MANCHESTER.
coming the distance of twenty-five and thirty miles could get a ready supply of alewives, and the people in the immediate neighborhood caught them for manure, putting one, two or more in a hill of corn, after the manner of the natives. It will readily be seen, that the Cohas fisheries were of great impor- tance to the people of this neighborhood, and the adjacent towns. It was to them a source of ready, cheap, and excellent food. Fresh, salted, or smoked, alewives were most acceptable food to a people, who had little fresh, or salt meat, save what was provided by their skill in hunting. Being of such impor- tance, every sort of protection was thrown around them, by reservation and legal enactments. In the grant to McMurphy, by the proprietors of Chester, in 1739, of the privilege at the outlet of the Massabesic, the following reservation was made, viz : " Always reserving a liberty and privilege to ye proprie- tors and ye inhabitants of ye town of Chester afores i to pass and repass without interruption to and from ye aforesd Massa- besic River to catch and take at ye falls of sd River below ye aforesd pond for necessary family support such fish as may be obtaind."
In March, 1754, the people of Derryfield passed the follow- ing vote as a municipal regulation, viz : " Voted that every person or persons that has any structures or any incumbrance on said brook, or any other person or persons whatsoever, whereby the alewives have been or shall be impeded or hindered in their passage from Merrimack River into Massabesick Pond in Der- ryfield, be removed so far as to make a free and open passage for said alewives from said Merrimack River into said pond, and if any person or persons who have any such incumbrance on said Cohass Brook or any other person or persons from what place soever shall neglect or refuse to remove such incumbrance as soon as the alewives is known to come into said brook, and so to continue removed until the said alewives have done run- ning into said pond, shall for every days neglect or refusal for- feit and pay the sum of forty shillings, one-half moiety to the use of the poor of the town and the other half to the com- plainant, to be recovered by bill, plaint or information before any of his majesty's Justices of the Peace for the Province of New Hampshire, and that no person or persons shall fish with any net in said brook within fifteen rods of Merrimack river or he shall pay the sum of twenty shillings as a fine, one half moiety to the poor of the town and the other half to the com- plainant, to be recovered by bill, plaint or information' before
661
LAKES AND PONDS.
any of the Justices of the Peace within the Province of New Hampshire."
Finding that more stringent measures were necessary, appli- cation was made to the legislature, and in consequence, the first legislative act passed in New Hampshire for the preservation of fish in the fresh waters of the state, was enacted for the pre- servation of fish in the " Cohas Brook." This act limited the time of fishing to certain days ; provided for the removal of dams that obstructed the free passage of alewives up the Cohas during the "running season" ; and prohibited the catching of alewives with nets near the mouth of the same. The expense of obtaining this act was paid by the town, as appears from the following vote, passed Sept. 5, 1754:
" Voted that Alexr McMurphy have eighteen pounds three shillings, old tenor, for obtaining the Elewife bill, and making a Constable's Staff, and taying man's Staff."
Ten years subsequent, in 1764, an act was passed for the preservation of fish in the Merrimack, and the streams empty- ing into the same. This act included the Cohas, and would seem to have been sufficiently protective ; but the inhabitants thought otherwise, and upon petition two other acts were passed for the protection of the fish in the Cohas. But fish are gov- erned by natural laws, and statute laws had little effect upon their scarcity or plentifulness, so long as the streams were kept clear for their passage.
LAKES AND PONDS.
Lake Massabesic is another important natural feature of Man- chester. This word means in the Indian language, the place of much water ; a corruption and contraction of Massa, (much) nipe, ( water) and auke, (place.) 'T'he Massabesic is a most beautiful sheet of water, or rather sheets of water, for it is in reality, two lakes united by a strait some twenty feet in width, and some sixty rods in length. It is very irregular in form, and indented with points, and dotted with islands, it presents to the eye a most picturesque appearance, from any point of view. In fact, from the highlands overlooking it, some of the most enchanting views meet the eye, and we very much doubt whether any water scenery can be found in our country to sur- pass the views to be had of portions of this lake, from Deer Neck, or Folsom's Hill, the two promontories that nearly divide the lake into two parts. 'The Derry Turnpike passed over these high lands indenting the lake, and the views from various
662
THE HISTORY OF MANCHESTER.
points in this road are the admiration of all who see them. The lake is about twenty-five miles around it, while its greatest di- ameter is not more than three miles. The eastern part of the lake is wholly in the town of Auburn, and is surrounded by a sandy or rocky shore, while a large portion of the western part which is mostly in Manchester, is skirted by a rocky shore. As a consequence, the water of the lake is clear and pure. This lake was much frequented by the Indians, for the purpose of fishing and hunting, and many of their implements have been found on the adjacent lands. In later times it has become a fashionable resort for invalids and pleasure seekers. Two large Hotels have been built within a few years for the accommoda- tion of visitors, one upon the north side of the lake by Mr. E. P. Offutt, and known as the "Massabesie House," and the other upon the south side of the lake, by Mr. H. C. Joy, and known as the "Island Pond House." Both of these houses are in Man- chester, although but a few rods from the line of Auburn. Con- nected with the Massabesic House is a small steamboat, the "Gem (f the Lake" that runs upon the eastern part of the lake for the accommodation of parties of pleasure. Like many lar- ger lakes, this one boasts of its three hundred and sixty-five islands, a number equal to the days in the year ; but to make up this number some of the large rocks in the lake must be counted ! However, it has many beautiful islands, and one of them, Brown's Island, contains some seventy acres, has afforded large quantities of wood and timber, and some parts of it have been cultivated. There are others that contain several acres each, and all of them covered with wood and shrubbery, and scattered over the silvery bosom of the lake in beautiful disor- der, form a panorama both pleasing and enchanting. The wa- ters of the Massabesic are discharged into the Merrimack, through the Cohas.
LITTLE POND .- This Pond lies south west of Bald Hill, and at its base. It contains some twelve acres, is well stocked with fish, and discharges its waters into the Merrimack, through the Amoskeag Brook. This is sometimes called Stevens Pond.
. LONG POND .- This lies south of Massabesic, and at the dis- tance of some twenty-five rods from it. It contains some thir- ty acres, and discharges its water into the Little Cohas through Gillis's Brook.
SKENKER'S POND .- This is a small pond near the school house n No, 9. It contains only some eight or ten acres, and its out-
663
BROOKS.
let called Musquito Brook, empties into the Great Cohas. This is often called Musquito Pond.
FORT POND .- This Pond is situated near the Nutt Farm, and betwixt the road to the Harvey Bridge, and the Manchester and Lawrence Rail Road. It contains about fifteen acres, and the outlet is Fort, or Baker's Brook, which empties into the Merri- mack. Stark's Fort was on its western shore near the outlet. This pond in ancient time was known as Swager's Pond, and latterly it is often called Nutt's Pond.
BROOKS.
SUDDEN PITCH BROOK .- This stream rises in Hooksett and passing across that gore of land, formerly known as Henrys- burg, empties into the Merrimack, nearly up to the north line of the city.
COLBURN'S BROOK .- This is a small brook rising on the Stark hill and flowing west that crosses the river road, near the school house in District No. 1, and empties into the Merrimack.
RAY BROOK .- This brook takes its rise in the south eastern part of Hooksett, and empties into the Merrimack, some seven- ty five rods above the Amoskeag Falls. In some part of its course, it is known as Burnham's Brook, taking this name from Mr. James Burnham, who some years since built a saw-mill upon it in Hooksett, and just east of the " Mammoth Road." This mill is now owned by Mr. Hiram Mace.
The brook was anciently called Gregg's Brook, from a man of that name ; but it is now known, and doubtless will continue to be known, as Ray Brook, thus named from Mr. John Ray, who owned the large and extensive farm through which it passed in the last mile of its course, and which now has up- on it some beautiful private residences, and ere long will doubt- less contain the sites of some of the most splendid residences iu the city.
Upon Ray Brook was built, I have reason to believe, the second or third saw mill in the town. It was built by Archi- bald Stark, Esq., and probably soon after he moved into the place in 1736. This mill was located a few rods west of the Hooksett road. This mill was in existence in 1756, but prob- ably in a somewhat dilapidated state, and doubtless was used but very little after that time, as four years after, in 1760, Mr. Stark had built a mill at the Amoskeag Falls. Mr. Geo. W.
664
THE HISTORY OF MANCHESTER.
Eaton erected a bark mill, in connection with a tannery, upon this brook, just east of the river road, which now is in ruins. Betwixt the river road and the Merrimack, the water falls some seventy-five feet, affording two good mill privileges, with suf- ficient water through a large portion of the year. As with our increasing population, such privileges for small mannfactories, must become important and valuable, it is probable that these falls at no distant period, will be occupied for manufacturing purposes.
CHRISTIAN'S BROOK .- This brook is the one that crosses the road just south of the school house near the Amoskeag Falls. It recived its name from an Indian by the name of Christian, who had his wigwam on the southern bank. The Amoskeag Manufacturing Company has completed a fine Reservoir upon this brook near where it crosses Elm street. It rises upon Oak Hill, and reaches the Merrimack in the distance of some over a mile.
MILE BROOK .- This brook rises on Oak Hill, and passes through the most thickly settled part of the city, by means of culverts. It passes through Janesville, and then into Hano- ver square, furnishing the supply of water to the pond in that square. Then it passes by a culvert diagonally across Hanover, Manchester, and Merrimack streets, to Merrimack square, sup- plying the water to the pond in that square. Thence it passes by a culvert, into the sewer on Elm street, and is discharged into Amoskeag Brook, just west of Elm street. A portion of the water of this brook is taken by a culvert down Hanover to Chestnut street, and up Chestnut street to the reservoir on Concord square. Thence it passes through Concord street into the sewer on Elm street.
The Reservoirs on Manchester, Pine, Hanover, and Merri- mack streets are also supplied from the same source.
'The west branch of the Mile Brook, was formerly called the Bear Brook, from an incident related of Mrs. Joseph Farmer. She was about to cross the brook near twilight, when she dis- covered upon the edge of the adjoining swamp, a bear. She immediately ran home, told her husband what she had seen, and after the neighbors had got together in sufficient numbers to follow the animal, the party repaired to the brook, Mrs. Far- mer leading the company, to point out the position of the bear when seen by her. As they drew near the spot, sure enough there sat bruin in stern silence at their approach. A shot from a musket did not even diconcert him, and upon ap-
AMOSKEAG BROOK. 665
proaching nearer. it was discovered that the bear was only a blackened pine stump ! This incident served to give for a time a name to the brook. It is not large enough for ordinary hy- draulic purposes, and no mills have ever been built upon it, still it has been made to do excellent service for our city, in furnishing reservoirs, and cleaning our sewers.
It had worn a deep gully in its passage to the river, the width and depth of which may be estimated on Merrimack and Hano- squares, the side banks of the ponds in them, being merely the banks of the ravine which the brook had worn. This brook after leaving what is now Merrimack square, passed in a direc- tion diagonally across Elin and Granite streets, crossing the latter a few rods west of its intersection with Elm street. Here the ravine grew, deeper and wider, and its sides covered with the original forests, became a vast, natural amphitheatre. Be- fore the axe and shovel of improvement, entered upon its walls and levelled them to a grade for the habitations of our increas- ing people, this natural amphitheatre, was often used as a place for public celebrations, and few scenes were more grand, or imposing, than this old temple of nature, filled with thousands of human beings.
AMOSKEAG BROOK. - This brook is one now generally called the Cemetery Brook, and discharges the waters of Little or Steven's Pond, into the Merrimack, at the Company's Weir, below Merrill's Falls. It formerly emptied into the Merrimack a few rods above Granite Bridge, at a point now occupied by the Print Works. After crossing Elm street as now, it formerly turned north in the directron of the Depot, received the waters of Mile Brook, passed along near to the store of John H. Moor & Co., and crossed Granite Street near where the Canal now crosses that street.
As early a 1750, there was a saw, and grist mill, upon this brook, just below Moor & Co's., store, south of Granite street. They were built and owned by Mr. Benjamin Hadley, and were known as "Hadley's Mills." They afterwards were own- ed by Mr. John Tufts, and were suffered to go to decay, and were never re-built.
Near the mouth of the brook, and where the Print Works now stand, there was in ancient time a saw mill, built by Mr. Benjamin Stevens, one of the original settlers, and who came into town under the auspices of the Massachusetts Government, probably in 1735, or 1736. The mud-sills of this mill were dug up in preparing for the foundation of the Print Works.
..
666
THE HISTORY OF MANCHESTER.
Just above where the brook crosses the road to Hallsville, a small mill was erected a few years since, by Hon. F. G. Stark. for wheelwright purposes. In 1850, Mr. Chas. Barnes purchased the mill and fitted it up as a mill for paper hangings. In 1855 this mill passed into the hands of Mr. John P. Lord, who has fitted it up as a mill for printing calicoes and delaines.
Farther up the brook there was for many years another saw mill just east of what is now known as Hallsville, this was built by Mr. John Hall, probably as early as 1750, and was known as the "Hall Mill." Subsequently it passed into the hands of Mr. Hugh Thompson. It finally went to decay, and but a vestige of it has remained for near half a century. Its position may be traced about twenty rods down the brook from where the same first crosses the road leading from Hallsville to Manchester Centre. The mill-pond extended quite up to the road.
The Amoskeag Manufacturing Company have diverted this brook from its original channel, taking its waters soon after it crosses Elm Street, in a new channel direct to their canal, and by grading and other improvements, have entirely obliterated the most wild and beutiful forest and water scenery that was connected with any stream in this vicinity. The citizens of a few years hence will hardly believe that within twenty years of their period, a person walking in the vicinity of Granite street could have entered a deep gorge, in a primeval forest, a vast am- phetheatre, overhung with pine, hemlock, and maple, and trversed in most intricate windings, by a limpid, pebbly bottom- ed stream. Yet such is the fact, and such was nature, where now, Improvement has erected those vast piles of mortar and brick.
The water of this brook is very clear and pure, and with its meanderings, forms one of the most beautiful features of the Valley Cemetery. In ancient deeds it is sometimes called Hum- phrey's, and again Thompson's, brook, but in the record of the laying out the highway from Amoskeag falls to Chester line, in 1751, it is called Amoskeag, which was undoubtedly then its appropriate name, and we should hope the name would be con- tinued.
FORT BROOK .- This stream discharges the waters of Fort Pond into the Merrimack. It is often called Baker's Brook, from the fact that it crosses the farm of the late Mr. Jesse Ba- ker. In 1846 a Sash and Door Factory was built upon this brook in the Baker field betwixt the road and the Merrimack, by Packards, Pillsbury and Ross. It was burned in June, 1847,
667
THE LITTLE COHAS.
and has not been rebuilt. A small mill for a Laundry was erected just west of the road in 1846, by Mr. Oliver Gould. Some years since the project was set on foot of clearing this brook of obstructions, so that the alewives might pass up it into Fort Pond. The brook was cleared, but the alewives did not accede to the proposition. 'The Stark Fort was on the south bank of this brook, near where it passes from the pond-hence its name.
THE LITTLE COHAS BROOKS .-- There are two brooks in the city called Little Cohas; one rising in Auburn east of the Mas- sabesic, passing thence southerly into Londonderry, and thence turning towards the northwest, passing into Manchester, and discharging its water into the Great Cohas, north and near the Corning school-house in District No. 9.
The other brook bearing the same name, rises in London- derry, and passing west empties into the Merrimack, opposite Cohas falls. Both of these streams are mainly south of the Cohas, and in former times before the country was cleared, the two were thought to be one and the same stream, rising east of the Massabesic. running southerly through Londonderry, and discharging into the Merrimack. After the fact was discover- ed that they were different streams, the names were still con- tinued.
The Little Cohas that empties into the Great Cohas, in Dis- trict No. 9, is the Little Cohas of ancient time, as shown in the records, it having been designated by that name in the original division of Londonderry into lots, more than a hundred and thirty years since ; while its competitor for the name, can sliow no such ancient record in its favor. To this stream then, be- longs the name of Little Cohas.
There have been upon it mills at various times. One near Mr. A. G. Corning's was known as "Corning's mill." This was a sawmill built by the elder Corning at an early period. There was a cornmill near where the brook crosses the road beyond Mr. Walter H. Noyes's. This was owned by a Mr. McDuffie, and was known as "McDuffie's Mill" as early as 1795. These mills have long since passed away. In later times there has been a sawmill further up the stream, in Lon- donderrv, built by Col. Francis Menter, and known as “ Men- ter's mill." This has gone to decay. The Little Cohas re- ceives the water of Long Pond by a brook joining with it near the house of Mr. John Huse. Aside from this it receives no considerable tributary.
The stream emptying into the Merrimack near the Cohas
668
THE HISTORY OF MANCHESTER.
falls, should be called COHASANTEE or COHASETT, to distinguish it from the one described above. This passes but a little way in Manchester, crossing that tongue of land in the lower part of the city lylng betwixt Londonderry and the Merrimack.
GILLIS, OR LONG POND BROOK .- Gillis Brook empties the water of the Long Pond into the Little Cohas. It is the brook that crosses the Derry road near the house of Mr. John Huse.
HEATHHEN BROOK .- This stream empties into the Massabesic south of the "Massabesic House " Its west branch rises on Heathhen Hill, and hence its name A large tract of land in that vicinity was purchased about 1800, by Mr. Wade Cogs- well, who came here from Ipswich, Mass. He had two saw- mills upon the brook, one where the Messrs. Lougee's mill now is. and the other some half mile above. The upper mill was suffered to go to decay, while the other with the upper privi- lege, passed into the possession of Messrs. Marden and Seavey. From them it passed into the hands of Mr. William Coult, who sold it to Mr. Edward P. Offutt. He sold to the Messrs. Lou- gee, who now operate the mill.
MILLSTONE BROOK .- This brook rises in Goffstown and emp- ties into the Merrimack about two miles above the Amoskeag Falls. It takes its name from the fact that a set of millstones belonging to Judge Blodget remained upon the river's bank for many years, near where the brook empties into the Merrimack. These millstones were hauled there for him, and being engaged in more important business he had no use for them. One of them remains there to the present day. The brook was for- merly called Blodget's Brook, which name gave place to Mill- stone from the foregoing incident.
BLACK BROOK .- This brook takes its rise in Dunbarton, and passing through Goffstown empties into the Merrimack some hundred and fifty rods above Amoskeag Falls. Judge Blodg- et's farm was upon this brook about a mile from its mouth. He built a sawmill upon it in the neighborhood of his house, in which he prepared much lumber for the market. He kept this mill in operation until after his removal to Derryfield, when his other-business took up his time. his farm became neglec- ted, and his mill went to decay. It was never rebuilt.
Within a short distance of its mouth are Farmer's Mills, owned by Col. Daniel Farmer. These consist of a sawmill and gristmill. There was a sawmill built here by Mr. Thomas Pollard about 1800, on the west of the road. Subsequently
669
HILLS.
another was built by his son Thomas Pollard, in connection with Col. Farmer about 1S20. This was where the present sawmill stands. At a later period the whole of the privilege with the mills passed into Col. Farmer's hands. He had built and owned a mill some years previous to this, upon the brook about a half of a mile above the old Blodget mill. This went to decay and was not rebuilt.
In former times, there was water enough run in this brook to carry the mills upon it mainly through the season, but at the present time, the adjacent country having been cleared of its wood and timber, there is not water sufficient to carry the mills more than eight months of the year ; yet from their proximity to the business part of the city of Manchester, they have be- come very valuable.
HILLS.
There is no very considerable elevation of land in this city.
OAK HILL is the second in height, being the hill directly east of Amoskeag Falls. This is some three hundred feet in height. From the top of this hill is presented a fine view of the city and the adjacent towns. The south part of this hill, and this hill itself, is often called Hall's Hill ; but the ancient records designate it as Oak Hill.
BALD HILL .- This is the third considerable elevation in the city, being about 425 feet in height. It receives its name from the fact, that frequent fires in former years, burned off the scrub oaks as fast as they grew, so that it has continued bald of trees since the original growth was taken from it. The hill is un- derlaid by a vast ledge, outcropping in many places, so that the land will never be very valuable for tillage purposes ; otherwise it might make a very desirable farm. From its top is gained a very extensive view-the Kearsearge, Saddleback, Uncanoo- nucks and Sunapee mountains being in the distance-while the Massabesic is directly at its base.
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