USA > New Jersey > Morris County > History of Morris County, New Jersey > Part 45
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Other thoroughfares were opened gradually and later, but may as well be designated here. The main road to- ward the south was the one now leading to Green Vil- lage, and thence to Basking Ridge, Pluckamin and the Delaware. The road leading northward was that which passes by the old academy, through Columbia, Whip- pany, Troy and Pompton, and on to Fort Lee and the Highlands of the Hudson. These roads formed a direct route between the Delaware and the Hudson for persons traveling on this side of the Newark Mountain, as well as for those coming from the west toward the ocean. These roads also had more or less to do with the early development of this region, and had special historic bearings. Geographically, Bottle Hill was so located that during the Revolutionary war it became from neces- sity a witness of many of the operations and a large sharer in the embarrassments and trials of that eventful struggle.
The history of the roads of a country gives a pretty fair indication of the intellectual and social life and progress of that country. Chatham township, as indeed
189
ROADS IN CHATHAM TOWNSHIP-THE FIRST CHURCH.
Morris county generally, is at least a partial illustration of this rule. The early roads of course were rough, and at certain seasons of the year almost impassable. Yet they were important avenues from the interior to great emporiums. The travel from the up-country, the trans- portation of produce and manufactures was by stage and by large four horse baggage wagons. Two four-horse stages passed up and down daily. Rev. Dr. Ogden states that he has himself counted twenty four horse covered wagons coming one after the other over the hills. These would usually stop over night in Chatham village as a half-way house, coming and going; making the village lively, and the business of the two leading public houses very profitable. To reach New York and return required two days, with a probable third day for the transaction of business. The increasing travel as the country filled up made it necessary to keep the roads in passable con- dition; but the improvements within a few years have been very great, and there is probably no part of New Jersey where better roads invite to finer drives than throughout this portion of the State, and perhaps none where such advantages are put to better use.
This part of New Jersey can hardly be said to have been really known to the rest of the country until October 1837, when the Morris and Essex Railroad was opened, bringing into connection with Newark and New York these hilly and picturesque regions on the line of the road, and giving easy access to romantic lake and moun- tain scenery in other parts of Morris county. This was at first quite an unpretentious road as to all its appoint- ments, but changes came with later days. Among these was the great improvement made around the depot at Madison about twenty-five years ago. What is now the square was then a mere roadway. On the north side of the road stood the town hall, the M. E. church, and several private houses. The grounds on which these buildings stood were purchased, the buildings moved back and the square well filled in. The cost of this im- provement was $12,000, one half of which was raised among the citizens and one half borne by the railroad company, which also built new passenger and freight depots. The former of these was burnt down on Sabbath evening October 21st 1877, and the present comely and commodious building has been built in its place.
The railroad is very circuitous, but all the more pleas- ant for that; and in certain seasons of the year, particu- larly in the early fall, presents a picture of great beauty to the eye, as the train passes under the slope of fine hills, through rich rolling lands, with such views as open from the Short Hills and other points. These advan- tages soon became known to the world without, and these hills and valleys began to lose their loneliness; until now from Newark to Morristown, and even beyond, there is a continuous line of rural residences, many of them the convenient homes of well-to-do men whose means are limited, and also many of them the elegant and costly mansions of men of wealth. The writer well remembers his first impressions of Chatham township, and especially the sight of so many beautiful knolls of
land where houses could be placed to fine advantage. Many of these knolls are now occupied, but many others invite the occupancy of those who love good views and the sweep of healthful winds.
For some years past it has been the growing practice of intelligent physicians to commend to invalids these hills. The elevation of the township, its freedom from malarious influences, and the purity of its air have of late years been making it the resort of many who once were sent to distant places with less advantage; and indeed all parts of Morris county during the summer are more or less filled up with residents for the season, or tempo- rary boarders who wish to be within easy distance of the city.
One who at any season of the year watches the well- filled trains which move so frequently through these towns and villages will be impressed with the new life which railroads bring to such regions; no inconsiderable portion of the people being men whose homes are here with their families, but whose daily toil is in Newark or New York. That this has made a vast change even in the external aspects of the country, and a greater one in the aspects of society, the condition of the churches, the educational influences abroad, and in other ways, is manifest, whatever some may think of the bearings of all these changes.
A wonderful result of this railroad opening has been the rise in value of property all over the region ; and es- pecially the appreciation of the choicer sites, so many of which have been purchased for costly houses. There are acres here, which forty years ago would not have brought fifty dollars, which to day several thousand dollars would not purchase. A great deal of money has been ex- pended in the improvement of grounds, in tasteful archi- tecture, in the outward adornment of lawns, exquisite beds of plants and flowers, and rich shrubbery which beautify the dwellings on every road ; while the roads themselves, growing better every year, invite to beautiful drives in every direction-indeed the drives all through Chatham township are not among the least of the attrac- tions of the region.
EDUCATIONAL AND RELIGIOUS BEGINNINGS.
It is not known how early provision was made for public education, but no doubt the pioneers, who came from the Puritan stock, followed the example of New England and "near the school-house built the church." The Rev. Jacob Green at the time of the Rev- olutionary war was fulfilling his long and able ministry in the Hanover church. His son, Ashbel Green, about the year 1780 was a teacher in the district school of Bottle Hill, while continuing the course of studies which, fol- lowed out, fitted him afterward for the position of presi- dent of the College of New Jersey.
At this point it will be in order to speak of the origi- nal church in Chatham township, because in New Jersey, as in New England, the history of any of our ancient churches is largely the history of the community up to a certain stage.
190
HISTORY OF MORRIS COUNTY.'
As to the earliest religious ordinances, where the peo- ple met, how their Sabbbath services were conducted, who preached for them, we are left to conjecture. But we risk nothing in believing that from the beginning the pub- lic worship of God was maintained; that in private houses and in barns the fathers and mothers gathered their families together on the Lord's day, to hear the glad tidings of Christ and to offer public thanksgiving and prayer.
For about thirty years after the first settlers crossed the mountains there was no church edifice, nor, so far as is known, any church organization in all this region. The old Presbyterian church at Whippanong had the honor of precedence. We say had, for the old church is not in existence now, and is not to be confounded with the present church of Whippany, whose edifice stands on quite another site, and the organization of which did not take place for more than a century afterward. The original deed by which three and a half acres were given " for a meeting-house, school-house, burying ground and training field," begins with the words: "I, John Bur- roughs, of Whippanong, in the county of Hunterdon," and bears date September 2nd 1718. This was twenty years before the organization of the first church in Morristown, which is the eldest child of this old mother.
The building stood on the present burying ground, a little northwest of the gate. It was a much smaller and humbler structure than either of the very plain churches subsequently built on Hanover Neck or Bottle Hill; a little shingled house, without cupola or spire, with outside stairways up to the galleries. It has long since passed away; but fifty years ago its foundation walls could be plainly traced, and twenty years later there " was a hol- low which clearly marked the place of the old edifice." Surely the spot is worthy of an enduring monument.
To this primitive church, from all the wide extent of territory round about, came the worshipers of that early day. The villages of Hanover Neck, Parsippany, New Vernon, Mendham, Boonton and Chatham were not yet in existence, and there was no house of worship of any order in Rockaway, Morristown, Green Village or Bottle Hill.
CHATHAM IN THE REVOLUTION.
Such, as we have described them, were the general aspects of this region during the period which preceded the war of the Revolution. The people, being either directly or remotely of New England origin, maintained the love for civil and religious freedom which brought ยท the Pilgrim fathers from the old world to the new. They entered with enthusiasm into the great national struggle, and during the long years of the war bore at least their full share in its sacrifices, as their descendants have shared in its great and benign results.
President Tuttle calls attention to the "singular fact that in a national work, Sparks's ' Writings of Washing- ton,' on the map of military movements in New Jersey Bottle Hill is not even put down, nor any reference made to the main encampment that winter of 1776-7 near
Bottle Hill, in the Lowantica Valley. Nor is any allu- sion made to it in that other great national book Los- sing's 'Field Book of the Revolution.' "
Lowantica Valley, so called from the Indian name of the brook which runs through it, begins near Morristown, and runs southeast for about five miles toward Green Village. It is now more commonly called Spring Valley. It is beautiful and well watered, and was then heavily timbered. Of the stream itself Mr. Tuttle says: "It is an unusually clear stream, formed from the springs which abound in the valley, and which gush forth in all their natural purity at almost every step. Flowing down in the general direction of the valley it empties into the Passaic, and constitutes thus one of the principal sources |of that river." This valley was chosen by Washington for the winter quarters of the army during the winter of 1776-77. For this purpose the valley and the whole re- gion round about were admirably adapted. Among the ranges of mountains extending from the Delaware to the Hudson, it had easy communication with the posts upon those rivers; several prominent peaks enabled the patriots to kindle beacon fires from Short Hills to Bottle Hill, to Morristown and beyond Denville, so that the movements of the British troops were again and again frustrated as the fires on the mountain top and the signal guns from point to point roused the inhabitants and called the troops to arms. This whole region also was well culti- vated, abounding in supplies for the troops, and, perhaps more than all, the patriotism of the inhabitants of Morris county burned clear and high, giving to Washington and the American army true sympathy and invaluable practi- cal aid.
It was early in the war, and at a critical time, when the army came here. The great and unexpected suc- cesses at Trenton and Princeton had encouraged the hearts of the people, but the troops were in a very wretched condition, in need of food and rest, of ammu- nition and of clothes.
We will quote here at some length the words of Rev. Samuel L. Tuttle, as we are indebted almost solely to him for all these interesting facts, which he gathered with great care and labor. If they should be put into other words, still the narrative would be his:
"The American forces were in fine spirits, and, the winter having set in, Washington determined to conduct them into winter quarters. He led them from Princeton, through Pluckamin, Basking Ridge, New Vernon, thence by the grist-mill belonging to Mr. Beauplain Boisaubin, near Green Village, thence around the corner occupied by Moses Lindsley, thence along the road from Green Village to Morristown; and thence over to the ground which had been selected for the encampment in the valley on the farms now belonging to A. M. Tredwell and W. M. Kitchel. The number of the troops is nowhere stated, but we have reason to believe that it was about three thousand. The weather at the time was exceedingly cold. Pitching their tents at first wherever they could find places for them, they continued to occupy them until they were able to construct more substantial and comfortable accommodations. The center of the ground marked out for the encamp- ment was not far from the present mansion of Mr.
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WASHINGTON'S TROOPS IN CHATHAM TOWNSHIP.
A. M. Tredwell. The ground at that point gradually desends toward the southeast, and is shielded by the crown of hill back of it from the severe winds and storms from north, northeast and west. A little south of it runs the Lowantica, and still nearer are several large and ex- cellent springs. The encampment began on the slope, west of the spot occupied by Mr. Tredwell's residence. One principal street, between four and five rods wide, was laid out in the middle, in the center of which stood the flagstaff, which by this time had come to be called the ' liberty pole,' from the top of which floated our na- tional banner. This street was kept in excellent condi- tion, and was used as a parade ground, although there is reason to believe that the fine level space on the hill, north of the camp, was used for this purpose on special occasions, such as general parades and reviews. The general direction of the main street was northwest and southeast. On this were constructed the cabins of the officers, which were somewhat larger than those which were put up for the soldiers. On either side of this lead- ing avenue were one or two other streets running in the same general direction, and about forty feet in width. On these the cabins of the soldiers were built, in some cases single, but oftener in blocks of three, four and five together; whilst outside of them, especially on the north- ern side, others were constructed without any special ref- erence to streets, but rather in reference to the character of the ground, the side hill there being indented with sev- eral deep gullies. The cabins-of which all the aged people in the vicinity agree there were a large number, probably as many as three hundred in all-were made of unhewn logs and covered with rough clapboards split out of the forest. In one end of each cabin a rough stone fireplace was thrown up, surmounted by a plastered stick chimney, while in the other end of each structure a board bunk was erected which reached across the entire end of the cabin, and, filled with straw, accommodated ten or twelve soldiers. Huge fires were kept continually blazing day and night. Several very large cabins were erected for the accommodation of the commissary de- partment, and camp stores; and these are believed to have been located on the southern borders of the camp, in the vicinity of the springs referred to. In that part of the camp were also the cabins of the sutlers, who drove a brisk trade in various groceries, especially in whiskey. A little farther down toward the stream rude sheds were built for the shelter of the horses, and here too the bag- gage and artillery wagons were drawn up in lines. On the outermost limits of the encampment several log guard-houses were built for the sentinels, whose duty it was, in regular beats, to pass back and forth, along the four sides of the camp, day and night."
This minute account was derived, by the author of it, from several aged people who had resided all their lives in or near the valley, and who distinctly remembered the camp from having often been in it during the winter when it was occupied. It will be interesting to the pres- ent inhabitants of this region, who can easily identify the 'spots where lay the main army of the new republic through all that dismal winter.
In addition to these forces three regiments of New England troops were posted near by, to be in readiness, if need be, for action on the Delaware. These were for the most part billeted in private houses through this township. Here again we quote the words of Mr. Tuttle, whose information came from aged eye witnesses, and who gives us an animated picture of the times:
" Every house throughout this region was filled to its utmost capacity with either officers or soldiers. Persons appointed by the commander-in-chief passed through the towns and examined the houses, and, without much con- sultation with the owners, decided how many and who should be quartered in each; often without even going into the house, these persons would ride up to the door and write: 'Col. Ogden's headquarters,' ' Major Eaton's headquarters,' 'twelve privates to be billeted here,' 'six officers to be quartered here,' &c., and generally without much regard to the convenience or wishes of the occu- pants the arrangements of these commissioners were car- ried out. In many cases the best rooms were placed at the disposal of the troops, while the families owning them retired into their kitchens and garrets. Boards were set up on the floor, across the side of the room opposite to the hearth, just far enough from the wall to admit of a person lying down at full length. This space was then filled with good wholesome straw, and there all the sol- diers billeted in a house, numbering sometimes six, some- times twelve and sometimes even twenty, crowded in together, and, covering themselves each with a single blanket, while the fires were kept burning, defended themselves as best they could from the severities of those stern winter nights. In some cases the soldiers had their meals provided by the families with which they were quartered, while in others they drew their rations and prepared them for themselves, as is generally done in camp."
As is known to all, Washington's headquarters were in Morristown, the general himself being housed in the hotel kept by Colonel Jacob Arnold, the famous " light horse" commander, as related on page 115, and with him there or in other houses near by were some of his most eminent generals and his military fam- ily; but a number of the leading officers of the army had their homes in the residences of the best families in Chatham township; among these were General Wayne, General Maxwell, Colonel Ogden, Colonel Barbour and others. "In some cases the families of the officers were with them, and in this way a very pleasant society was kept up here during the winter."
These burdens seem to have been cheerfully borne by these families. "Aaron Kitchel and his father, Joseph Kitchel, of Hanover, gave up the larger of their two houses, on condition that the old people might have the other, required only to take care of three sick English prisoners. The late Rev. Dr. Ashbel Green remembered that his father's family consisted of nine individuals; and, as well as can be recollected, fourteen officers and sol- diers were quartered in the same building. The Sayres, Richards, Ely, Beach, Kitchel, Smith, Tuttle and other families were served in the same way; making no com- plaint." Dr. J. F. Tuttle, who gives the above particu- lars, makes mention of Mrs. Anna Kitchel, a devout Christian and patriot who, having rooms and free pro- visions for at least twelve soldiers, did indeed protest when an officer attempted to billet forty hungry fellows upon them; for whom however they hung over the fire the large kettle holding half a barrel, filled with meat and potatoes and other vegetables.
Among the good men who performed high service here [of another kind were certain clergymen who officiated as army chaplains. It is well known that the general
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HISTORY OF MORRIS COUNTY.
orders of Washington to the army, as well as all his pub- lic papers, breathe the spirit of humble reverence to Al- mighty God.
No commander would be more sure to provide relig- ious services for his troops. There can be no reasonable doubt that the Rev. Mr. Horton was called to this service, well known as he was for his sturdy patriotism and cour- age. The minister whose services there were best known was, however, the famous James Caldwell, pastor of the First Presbyterian Church in Elizabeth. Dr. Tuttle says that "on the Sabbath when the weather would admit of buried, it is said, is still to be seen, in the southwest cor- it he preached to the soldiers on the parade ground, from ner of the Harperee farm. A triangular piece of ground containing at least three-quarters of an acre, surrounded by an old fashioned worm fence, and filled with mounds as closely as they could be placed, in regular rows, was the place where these unfortunate men, unblest with the sympathy of wives or sisters or mothers, were committed to the dust." a temporary platform; at other times discharging his high office in the cabins of both officers and privates, in conversing with individuals, in ministering consolation and instruction to the sick and dying, and in performing the last rites of religion at the graves of those who had died.
Here it may be said that such ministrations as these were greatly needed during that long and dreadful win. ter. Added to the many hard trials of the camp, that dread scourge smallpox broke out among the troops. That benign discovery vaccination was not then known, and Washington (February 5th 1777) writes to Congress: "The smallpox has made such head in every quarter that I find it impossible to keep it from spreading through the whole army in the natural way. I have therefore determined not only to inoculate all the troops here that have not had it, but I shall order Dr. Shippen to in- oculate the recruits also, as fast as they come to Phila- delphia." Dr. Ashbel Green, who was then a youth of about seventeen years, says in his autobiography: "The troops were distributed in the dwellings of the in- habitants, and the surgeons of the army inoculated both soldiers and citizens free of charge. The disease by in- oculation was so light that there was not, probably, a
day in which the army could not have been marched Aged people relate how their fathers hurried forth, against the enemy if it had been necessary."
Nevertheless the deaths among the soldiers must have been many. One or two churches appear to have been occupied as smallpox hospitals, and a number of private houses were set apart for the purpose of inoculation and as smallpox hospitals. One of these was a house on the Green Village road leading from Morristown and passing along the camp ground; the house was then owned by James Brookfield, whose devoted wife, as Mr. Tuttle says, "is deserving of a monument for the self-sacrificing efforts which she put forth to relieve the sufferings and comfort the last hours of our patriotic soldiers who were placed under her roof." All the rooms in this house were kept full of the sick, many of whom died and were buried in the orchard about five hundred yards northwest of the house. "Nothing now remains to mark the place of their burial, but there must have been a very consider- able number interred there during that fearful winter."
The following extract from Mr. Tuttle's address pos- sesses great interest :
"The principal hospital in the vicinity of the camp was a large house which belonged at that time to a
German gentleman of the name of Harperee, on the farm which now belongs to Mr. J. J. Scofield, on the old road from this place to Morristown. The house stood about a quarter of a mile south of the above thorough- fare, and on ground which sloped toward the south, so that it could not be seen from the road. It was a one- and-a-half-story house, having four rooms on the lower floor and a greater number on the upper, about one and a half miles northwest of the center of the camp; and in many respects admirably adapted to the object for which it was used. Here large numbers of soldiers at different times saw the last of earth. The place where they were
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