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ROCHESTER AND
MONROE COUNTY
A HISTORY AND GUIDE
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http://www.archive.org/details/rochesterandmonr00federich
ROCHESTER AND MONROE COUNTY A HISTORY AND GUIDE
BRYANT BAKER
SCULPTOR
NATHANIEL ROCHESTER
AMERICAN GUIDE SERIES
ROCHESTER
AND
MONROE COUNTY
FEDERAL WRITERS' PROJECT WORKS PROGRESS ADMINISTRATION STATE OF NEW YORK
SPONSORED BY
. THE CITY OF ROCHESTER AND THE GENESEE BOOK CLUB
PUBLISHED BY
SCRANTOM'S, ROCHESTER, NEW YORK, 1937
COPYRIGHT, 1937 by the GENESEE BOOK CLUB of Rochester
Printed by THE PRINTING HOUSE OF LEO HART Rochester, New York
THEIR WEDDING JOURNEY
"It is an enchanted city," mused Basil, aloud, as they wan- dered on, "and all strange cities are enchanted . .. Rochester is for us, who don't know it at all, a city of any time or country, moonlight, filled with lovers hovering over piano-fortes, of a palatial hotel with pastoral waiters and porters,-a city of hand- some streets wrapt in beautiful quiet and dreaming of the golden age. The only definite association with it in our minds is the tragically romantic thought that here Sam Patch met his fate."
"And who in the world was Sam Patch?"
"Isabel, your ignorance of all that an American woman should be proud of distresses me. Have you really, then, never heard of the man who invented the saying, 'Some things can be done as well as others,' and proved it by jumping over Niagara Falls twice? Spurred on by this belief, he attempted the leap of the Genesee Falls. The leap was easy enough, but the coming up again was another matter. He failed in that. It was the one thing that could not be done as well as others."
"Dreadful!" said Isabel, with the cheerfullest satisfaction.
"But what has all that to do with Rochester?"
"Now, my dear! You don't mean to say you didn't know that the Genesee Falls were at Rochester? Upon my word, I am ashamed. Why, we're within ten minutes walk of them now."
"Then walk to them at once!" cried Isabel, wholly unabashed, and in fact unable to see what she had to be ashamed of. "Actually, I believe you would have allowed me to leave Rochester without telling me the falls were here, if you hadn't happened to think of Sam Patch."
WILLIAM DEAN HOWELLS. (1871)
AMERICAN GUIDE SERIES
FOREWORD
R OCHESTER AND MONROE COUNTY is one of the publications in the American Guide Series, written by members of the Federal Writers' Project of the Works Progress Administration. Designed primarily to give useful em- ployment to needy unemployed writers and research workers, this project has gradually developed the ambitious objective of present- ing to the American people a portrait of America-its history, folklore, scenery, cultural backgrounds, social and economic trends, and racial factors. In one respect, at any rate, this undertaking is unique: it represents a far-flung effort at cooperative research and writing, drawing upon all the varied abilities of its personnel. All the workers contribute according to their talents; the field worker collects data in the field, the research worker burrows in libraries, the art and literary critics cover material relevant to their own specialties, architects describe notable historical build- ings and monuments; and the final editing of copy as it flows in from all corners of a state is done by the more experienced writers in the central offices. The ultimate product, whatever its faults or merits, represents a blend of the work of the entire personnel, aided by consultants, members of university faculties, specialists, officers of learned societies, oldest residents, who have volunteered their services everywhere most generously.
A great many books and brochures are being written for this series. As they appear in increasing numbers we hope the American public will come to appreciate more fully not only the unusual scope of this undertaking, but also the devotion shown by the workers, from the humblest field worker to the most accomplished editors engaged in the final rewrite. The Federal Writers' Project, directed by Henry G. Alsberg, is in the Division of Women's and Professional Projects under Ellen S. Woodward, Assistant Administrator.
(Signed) HARRY L. HOPKINS Administrator
AMERICAN GUIDE SERIES
PREFACE
T THE nature of the undertaking of which this book is one of the fruits has been adequately described by Mr. Harry Hopkins in the foreword. It remains only for the editors to express their acknowledgements.
Grateful acknowledgement is made to Mayor Charles Stanton, City Manager Harold W. Baker, and the City Council for sponsor- ing the book. The members of the Cooperating Advisory Committee have responded generously to every request for information and advice. The staffs of the University of Rochester library, the city library, the Rochester Historical Society, and the Museum of Arts and Sciences have been freely consulted. Special acknowledgement is due Dr. Dexter Perkins, city historian, and Dr. Blake McKelvey, his associate, for reviewing the historical sections; Mr. William G. Kaelber for his critical scrutiny of the architect- ural material; Mrs. Gertrude Herdle Moore for advice on art and museums; Mr. Stewart B. Sabin for reading the section on the Eastman School of Music; Mr. Al Sigl for information on radio; Mr. Morley Turpin, archivist of the University of Rochester, for much specialized material; and the many members of the Rochester Pioneers who drew upon their memories to add many vivid touches to the dead records of the past. Other unnamed and unnumbered citizens of Rochester contributed with their sympathetic and en- couraging interest during the preparation of the book. The Federal Writers' Project wishes also to thank Sibley, Lindsay d' Curr for their courtesies and generosity.
If this Guide succeeds in presenting to visitors and distant friends a true picture of the city of Rochester; if it refreshes the city's memory of its own past and sharpens its consciousness of its present life, and thereby perhaps even makes a contribution to its future development-then the highest hopes of those who labored on this book will have been fully realized.
COOPERATING ADVISORY COMMITTEE
HONORABLE CHARLES STANTON Mayor of Rochester
HONORABLE ROLAND B. WOODWARD State Board of Regents Chamber of Commerce
FRANK E. GANNETT Publisher of Gannett Newspapers
JOHN P. BOYLAN President, Rochester Telephone Corporation
DR. DEXTER PERKINS City Historian
DR. ARTHUR C. PARKER Director, Rochester Museum of Arts and Sciences
JOHN ADAMS LOWE Director, Rochester Public Libraries
DR. ALAN VALENTINE President, University of Rochester
DR. HOWARD HANSON Director, Eastman School of Music
JAMES M. SPINNING Superintendent of Schools
MRS. WALDEN V. MOORE Director, Memorial Art Museum
MOST REVEREND EDWARD MOONEY Former Bishop of the Catholic Diocese
RIGHT REVEREND DAVID LINCOLN FERRIS Bishop of the Episcopal Diocese
RABBI PHILIP S. BERNSTEIN Rabbi of Temple B'rith Kodesh
CONTENTS
Page
FOREWORD
11
PREFACE .
13
COOPERATING ADVISORY COMMITTEE.
15
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
22
LIST OF MAPS
23
GENERAL INFORMATION
Transportation .
24
Accommodations
28
Recreation
29
Information for Tourists
34
Information Bureaus
36
Calendar of Annual Events
38
I. ROCHESTER
CONTEMPORARY SCENE.
The City 43
Its People
48
Life and Livelihood
48
HISTORY
Origins
51
The Flour City .
54
The Flower City
58
Modern Development .
62
Government
70
ROCHESTER ANECDOTES
73
ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT
Growth of Industry
103
Labor
111
ROCHESTER AND MONROE COUNTY
CULTURAL LIFE
Music 115
Art
122
Literature 127
Architecture 139
Education 147
Newspapers and Radio
151
Religion 154
Social Service
156
POINTS OF INTEREST
Tour 1 (Points of Interest Nos. 1-19) 161
Tour 2 (Points of Interest Nos. 20-41) 173
Tour 3 (Points of Interest Nos. 42-62) 189
Tour 4 (Points of Interest Nos. 63-78) 202
UNIVERSITY OF ROCHESTER
History . 214
River Campus (College for Men) 219
Prince Street Campus (College for Women) 223
Memorial Art Gallery 225
Eastman School of Music and Eastman Theater 227
School of Medicine and Dentistry 233
Rochester Dental Dispensary 235
POINTS OF INTEREST FOR CHILDREN
The Zoo 236
Rochester Museum of Arts and Sciences 243
Lamberton Conservatory . 248
II. MONROE COUNTY
LOCATION 255
GEOGRAPHY .
255
GEOLOGY
259
ROCHESTER AND MONROE COUNTY
PALEONTOLOGY 260
FLORA
261
FAUNA 262
MINERALS
263
AGRICULTURE
264
CONSERVATION
265
INDIANS AND ARCHEOLOGY 266
COUNTY GOVERNMENT 274
COUNTY BUILDINGS
276
MONROE COUNTY TRAVELING LIBRARY
277
TOWNS AND VILLAGES .
279
III. TOURS OUT OF ROCHESTER
TOUR 1 NIAGARA FALLS AND FORT NIAGARA . . 297 Rochester, Clarkson, Lewiston, Ni- agara Falls, Youngstown, Fort Niagara, Olcott, Rochester.
TOUR 2 CHURCHVILLE AND HAMLIN BEACH PARKS 315 Rochester, North Chili, Churchville, Churchville County Park, Bergen, Hamlin Beach Park, Hilton, Charlotte, Rochester.
TOUR 3
TONAWANDA INDIAN RESERVATION 322
Rochester, Churchville, Bergen, Bata- via, Indian Falls, Tonawanda Reserva- tion, Oakfield, Byron Center, Roch- ester.
ROCHESTER AND MONROE COUNTY
TOUR 4
STATE FISH HATCHERIES AT CALEDONIA
.
Rochester, Scottsville, Mumford, Cale-
donia Fish Hatcheries, Riga, Chili,
Rochester.
328
TOUR 5 LETCHWORTH PARK AND HIGHBANKS OF THE GENESEE . . 334
Rochester, Caledonia, Perry, Silver
Lake, Letchworth State Park, Portage-
ville, Mount Morris, High Banks,
Geneseo, Avon, Rochester.
TOUR 6
STONY BROOK STATE PARK
349
Rochester, East Avon, Scottsburg,
Dansville, Stony Brook State Park,
Livonia, Rochester.
TOUR 7
LITTLE FINGER LAKES
355
Rochester, Lima, Springwater, Hone-
oye, Mendon Ponds Park, Rochester.
TOUR 8
CANANDAIGUA LAKE AND BRISTOL VALLEY
360
Rochester, Henrietta, Rush, Honeoye
Falls, Bristol Valley, Naples, Middle-
sex, Canandaigua, Rochester.
TOUR 9
KEUKA LAKE AND HAMMONDSPORT
370
Rochester, Canandaigua, Penn Yan,
Bluff Point, Hammondsport, Dresden,
Geneva, Rochester.
TOUR 10
SENECA LAKE AND WATKINS GLEN
381
Rochester, Geneva, Watkins Glen,
Montour Falls, Waterloo, Rochester.
ROCHESTER AND MONROE COUNTY
TOUR 11 CAYUGA LAKE AND ITHACA 391
Rochester, Cayuga State Park,
Taughannock Falls, Ithaca, Aurora,
Levanna, Union Springs, Cayuga,
Savannah, Lyons, Rochester.
TOUR 12 SODUS POINT, MORMON HILL AND HYDESVILLE 401
Rochester, Palmyra, Lyons, Sodus Point, Pultneyville, Sea Breeze, Roch- ester.
TOUR 13
AROUND IRONDEQUOIT BAY 408
Rochester, Glen Haven, Bay View, Birds and Worms, Point Pleasant, Sea Breeze, Inspiration Point, Willow Grove Park, Ellison Park, Rochester.
TOUR 14 OSWEGO AND FAIR HAVEN BEACH STATE PARK . 413
Rochester, Webster, Williamson, Sodus, Red Creek, Oswego, Fair Haven Beach Park, Wolcott, Savannah, Rochester.
CHRONOLOGY 423
BIBLIOGRAPHY
443
INDEX
449
ROCHESTER AND MONROE COUNTY
ILLUSTRATIONS
Page
NATHANIEL ROCHESTER, FRONTISPIECE
EAST AVENUE ELMS
44
VETERANS' MEMORIAL BRIDGE
46
SCRANTOM CABIN
52
ROCHESTER IN 1853
60
SUSAN B. ANTHONY
74
ORRINGH STONE TAVERN
80
OLD LIGHTHOUSE, CHARLOTTE
86
INDUSTRIAL ROCHESTER 112
118
MEMORIAL ART GALLERY . 126
142
SILAS O. SMITH HOUSE 144
ENTRANCE TO W. W. CHAPIN HOUSE 146
LAKE IN SENECA PARK 168
EASTMAN HOUSE
177
OLIVER CULVER HOUSE
178
COLGATE-ROCHESTER DIVINITY SCHOOL
180
CHILDREN'S PAVILION, HIGHLAND PARK
182
CLARISSA ST. BRIDGE TOWER .
186
RUNDEL MEMORIAL BUILDING
188
JONATHAN CHILD HOUSE
193
D. A. R. HOUSE
196
MERCURY AND THE WINGS
198
GEORGE EASTMAN MEMORIAL, KODAK PARK
206
CHARLOTTE HIGH SCHOOL .
210
RUSH RHEES LIBRARY 218
BURTON HALL 222
CUTLER UNION .
224
EASTMAN SCHOOL OF MUSIC 228
STRONG MEMORIAL HOSPITAL
232
THE FURROWED FIELDS OF MONROE COUNTY 256
THE GENESEE GORGE
258
INTERIOR, EASTMAN SCHOOL OF MUSIC
ARCHITECTURAL DETAIL D. A. R. HOUSE
ROCHESTER AND MONROE COUNTY
MONROE COUNTY TRAVELING LIBRARY 278
COBBLESTONE HOUSE 300
AMERICAN FALLS FROM GOAT ISLAND 304
WHIRLPOOL RAPIDS, NIAGARA FALLS 306 SENECA INDIAN COUNCIL HOUSE, LETCHWORTH PARK 338
MIDDLE FALLS, LETCHWORTH STATE PARK 340
WHITE HORSE TAVERN 346
STONY BROOK FALLS, STONY BROOK STATE PARK 353
WILLOW POND, EAST AVENUE 369
KEUKA LAKE 375
MAPS
CITY OF ROCHESTER 42
KEY MAP TO POINTS OF INTEREST
160
TOUR 1
163
TOUR 2
175
TOUR 3
191
TOUR 4
201
MONROE COUNTY
254
KEY MAP TO TOURS OUT OF ROCHESTER .
296
GENERAL INFORMATION
TRANSPORTATION
RAILROAD STATIONS
New York Central R. R., Central Ave. between Clinton Ave. N. and Joseph Ave.
Buffalo, Rochester, and Pittsburgh division of the Balti- more and Ohio R. R., West Main and Oak Sts.
Erie R. R., Rochester branch, 35 Court St.
Pennsylvania R. R., Rochester branch, 357 Main St. W. Lehigh Valley R. R., Rochester branch, 99 Court St.
AIRPORT
Rochester Municipal Airport (taxi $1.25 one way, one half hour), 5.2 m. from the Four Corners on State 35 (Scotts- ville Road). The hangars cover an area of 27,000 sq. ft. The field is flood-lighted and contains 3 runways. Work in progress will double size of field and length of runways (WPA project).
American Airlines, Inc. operate 4 planes daily: 2 east- bound, 2 westbound. Ticket offices: 68 East Ave .; Lincoln- Alliance Bank Building, 183 Main St. E .; Sibley, Lindsay & Curr, Main and Clinton Sts.
Four aviation schools, conducted at the airport, also operate sight-seeing planes. Rates: $10 per hour; field flight $1.50; city flight $2; lake flight $2.50.
BUSSES
Western New York Motor Lines (Blue Bus Line), 63 South Ave .: hourly service to and from Buffalo and inter- mediate points.
24
GENERAL INFORMATION
Frank Martz Coach Co., Inc., 63 South Ave. : New York- Chicago, connections for coast to coast travel.
Central Greyhound Lines, 72 Franklin St .: Buffalo, Syracuse, Albany, Niagara Falls, suburban points. Inter- state and transcontinental busses. Busses chartered.
East Ave. Bus Co., Inc., SE. corner Elm St. and Main St. E .: 29 trips daily to Pittsford.
Rochester Railway Coordinated Bus Lines, Inc .: inter- urban busses: Chili Ave. Line, corner Gibbs and Grove Sts., out Chili Ave. to Hall's Station and Chili Center; Ridge Rd. Line, corner Lewiston and Lake Aves., out Ridge Road to Parma Corners and Hilton; Dewey Ave. line to Stone Rd. and Britton Rd .; Lee Road and Lyell Ave. line out Lyell Ave. and Spencerport Rd. to Scott Rd. Busses char- tered.
Rochester and Sodus Bay Motor Vehicle Route: Rochester and Sodus Bay bus, corner Broad St. and South Ave., 5 round trips daily to Sodus Bay and intermediate points.
Rochester Interurban Bus Co., Inc., Broad St. and South Ave .: 2 round trips daily to Hornell via Dansville; 21 round trips daily to Pittsford, including one round trip to Mendon. Busses chartered.
Town Bus Lines, 72 Franklin St. : 7 trips daily to Penfield; 2 trips Sundays and holidays.
STEAMSHIPS
Canadian Car Ferry Co .; dock (reached by Lake Ave. car line) on Boxart St., 2 blocks E. of Lake Ave. All-year passenger and freight service between Charlotte and Co- bourg, Canada. Tickets at dock or at Baltimore & Ohio R. R. station, Oak and W. Main Sts .; train service to and from dock. Cars transported. Irregular sailings during winter.
25
ROCHESTER AND MONROE COUNTY
Canada Steamship Lines, Municipal Pier, eastern end of Beach Ave., Charlotte. Seasonal steamship service, June 15 to September 12; one boat daily each way between Rochester and Kingston, Ontario, through the Thousand Islands; at Prescott, Ontario, connections are made for Montreal and St. Lawrence River points, including the Saguenay River. In season, daily boats to and from Toronto. Tickets at company's office, 68 East Ave. Cars transported.
STREET RAILWAYS AND BUSSES
Fare: 10 cents; half fare, 5 cents. Tokens, 6 for 50 cents, good on city cars and busses within the city. Ten-cent round-trip shopper's pass with stop-overs is good 9:30- 11:30 a.m., 2-4 p.m. Weekly passes good on all city lines, $1.
Suburban lines: one-way fare 15 cents. Weekly pass cost- ing $1.25 is good from any point in the city on Summerville, Sea Breeze, Laurelton, and Titus Ave. suburban lines. Fifteen cent round-trip shopper's pass with stop-overs is good 9:30-11:30 a.m., 2-4 p.m.
SUBWAY
From Rowlands to west city limits, following line of old Erie Canal. Passenger information, 267 State St., Main 4200; freight office and dispatcher, Rundel Building Sub- way Station, Main 983. Fare same as surface lines, with additional fare of 5 cents beyond east city line to Rowlands. Subway freight lines connect with all railroads entering the city, forming inner belt line to serve every industrial plant which has railroad connections. Charge for moving loaded cars, $6.30-$10. Increase in freight handled during 1936 was 10.78 percent over preceding year.
2.6
GENERAL INFORMATION
The subway from South Ave. to Brown St. is roofed by Broad St., which forms a section of the proposed arterial highway to extend to the east side residential district.
TAXIS
Taxicabs stand at stations, large hotels, and public stands throughout the city, and may be ordered by tele- phone from any point. A city ordinance fixes taxi rates, but because of competition the uniform charge is now less than that called for in the ordinance. The prevailing rate is 35 cents for the first 212 miles with diminishing charges for additional mileage. Operators are required to post the table of rates, and the taximeter must be lighted at night. Hand baggage is carried free; arrangements may be made for trunks. It is not customary to charge for additional passengers. Where delayed stops are to be made, charges must be agreed on in advance. In cases of serious disagree- ment consult the police department. Taxicabs can be hired to points outside the city, the usual rate being 10 cents a running mile for return trips; otherwise 20 cents a running mile to point of destination.
TRAFFIC REGULATIONS
Few one-way streets, plainly marked.
Central traffic district is bounded W. by Ford St .; S. by Troup and Court Sts .; E. by Union and Alexander Sts .; N. by University Ave., Central Ave., and Allen St.
Speed limits : 25 m.p.h. in central traffic district; 35 m.p.h. on arterial highways outside central district; 30 m.p.h. elsewhere in the city; 15 m.p.h. in school zones 8 a.m .- 4.30 p.m .; 10 m.p.h. turning a corner. No right turns on red; no left turns during rush hours at marked intersections; no reverse turn in central traffic district. Autoists must not
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ROCHESTER AND MONROE COUNTY
pass or approach within 7 ft. of a street car which has stopped to discharge or take on passengers.
No parking in downtown section; parking on other streets is permitted except at points and for periods indi- cated on markers. Ample private parking space available in downtown area at rates as low as 10 cents a day. Inside parking available in a number of central locations.
ACCOMMODATIONS
HOTELS
Seven hotels in the downtown district operated on the European plan, totalling over 3,600 rooms.
SAGAMORE HOTEL, 111 East Ave., $3.50-$6. All rooms with outside exposure and bath; solarium, coffee shoppe, cocktail room. Home of Radio Station WHAM. Adjacent parking and garage.
POWERS HOTEL, 34 Main St., $2.50-$5. Dining room with Colonial fireplace, cafeteria, air-cooled tap room with Musketeer murals, cocktail room, banquet hall, and ball- room accommodating 700-1,000. Ramp garage adjoining.
HOTEL SENECA, 26 Clinton Ave. S., $3-$7. Air con- ditioned tap room, two dining rooms, and ball room ac- commodating 800-1,000; Blue Parlor with murals of Rochester historical scenes. Adjacent parking with garage.
HOTEL ROCHESTER, 95 Main St. W., $3-$7. All rooms with bath and radio; large dining room and tap room, six private dining rooms for assemblies; adjoining garage.
FORD HOTEL, 67 Chestnut St., $1-$3. Restaurant, coffee shoppe, tap room, and private floor for unescorted ladies; parking and garage adjacent.
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GENERAL INFORMATION
CADILLAC HOTEL, 45 Chestnut St., $2-$5. All rooms with bath. Dining room, tap room, and room for private parties or sales meetings: adjacent parking and garage service.
HAYWARD HOTEL, 19 Clinton Ave. S., $2.50-$4. Pea- cock Room, tap room, and coffee shoppe; garage adjacent.
A number of apartment houses throughout the city offer tourist and resident accommodations.
Tourist homes and camps surround the city.
AUTO TRAILER CAMPS
There are no public tourist or auto-trailer camps in Monroe County; but on all the main roads, especially near Rochester, are private tourist camps which provide for trailers. City authorities do not favor camping in the city. Parking of trailers on the streets is covered by the same regulations as the parking of automobiles. Camping, which heretofore has been provided for in some of the parks, has been discontinued mainly because of state regulations affect- ing sanitation and police supervision. At the present time all visitors at county parks are required to leave by 10 p.m.
RECREATION
THEATRES
Eastman Theatre, Main St. E. and Gibbs St. Operas, con- certs, recitals; Metropolitan Opera in April or May; a series of plays for children on Saturdays in the winter season.
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