Rochester and Monroe County: A history and guide, Part 23

Author: Federal Writers' Project. New York (State)
Publication date: 1937
Publisher: Rochester, N.Y., Scrantom's
Number of Pages: 476


USA > New York > Monroe County > Rochester > Rochester and Monroe County: A history and guide > Part 23


Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).


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THE SCYTHE TREE, 4.5 m. (see Tour 10, Section d).


WATERLOO, 7 m. (438 alt., 4,047 pop.), (see Tour 10, Section d).


East of Waterloo the route leaves behind the land of the Senecas and enters the land of the Cayugas.


SENECA FALLS, 10.1 m. (465 alt., 6,443 pop.), owes its growth to the power latent in the Seneca River, which later became the Seneca division of the Barge Canal. Nearly 12,000 horsepower is developed here today, although the 50-ft. waterfalls are replaced by canal locks.


Seneca Falls was the BIRTHPLACE OF ELIZABETH CADY STANTON who, with her co-worker, Susan B. Anthony of Rochester, did much to secure for women the right of suffrage; and of Amelia Bloomer, who attempted to revolutionize the manner of women's dress. The first Women's Rights convention was held in the village in 1848.


SECTION D. SENECA FALLS-ITHACA. STATE 414, 15, COUNTY ROAD, STATE 89. 45.5 m.


From Seneca Falls the route goes directly S. on State 414, the Reservation Road, the dividing line between the terri- tory of the Seneca and Cayuga Nations.


At 1.1 m. is junction (L) with the Old Genesee Stage Route, an unnumbered macadam road. The Cayuga Lake bridge once was the connecting link on the pioneer route which crossed the lake at this point.


On this road is the POTTER INN FARM, 1.9 m. (R) the home of NATHANIEL J. POTTER, an early innkeeper and blacksmith, and of his son, Henry S. Potter, first president of the Western Union Telegraph Co.


CAYUGA STATE PARK, 4.3 m., on the W. shore of Cayuga Lake, covers 135 acres of land, with picnic grounds, baseball diamonds,


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bowling greens, and tennis courts, sand bathing beach, bath- houses, and dining and dancing pavilions.


The MONUMENT TO RED JACKET, 6.6 m., was erected in 1891 by the Waterloo Library and Historical Society. Red Jacket, called by the Indians, Sogoyawatha, he-keeps-them-awake, was a member of the Wolf Clan of the Senecas and a famous orator of the Iroquois. He was chiefly responsible for bringing about more cordial relations between the United States Government and the Iroquois Nation after the Revolution. For his accomplishments he was awarded a medal by Congress. He died in Buffalo in 1830.


At ROMULUS, 11.8 m. (719 alt., 190 pop.), is junction with State 15; the route turns L. on State 15.


At OVID, 17.4 m. (971 alt., 537 pop.), State 15 turns L.


INTERLAKEN, 24.7 m. (856 alt., 660 pop.), lies on the high land between Cayuga and Seneca Lakes, surrounded by the fertile fields of the district.


As the highway tops a height of land at 26.4 m., CAYUGA LAKE is visible (L). It is 40 m. long, 2 m. wide, 435 ft. deep, and 381 ft. above sea level. On its shores are the sites of 13 Indian villages, from the soil of which have been dug pre- historic skeletons and artifacts of the Algonkians.


TRUMANSBURG, 31.4 m. (1,000 alt., 1,077 pop.), named for the pioneer who founded the town, is a center for a large and fertile farming region. In the center of the town is an ancient CANNON set upon a base inscribed with Trumansburg's part in all the nation's wars. The Trumans- burg Fair is an annual event in the fall.


In the village, at 32.1 m., the route turns L. on a macadam road which leads to TAUGHANNOCK FALLS STATE PARK, 34.2 m., 384 acres embracing the gorge cut by Tau- ghannock Creek and the falls, 215 ft. high, the highest straight falls E. of the Rockies.


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Taughannock Falls is the highest waterfall formed in the Finger Lakes region after the Ice Age. A new post-glacial stream fell abruptly to the level of new Cayuga Lake, which was formed by the damming of a pre-glacial river valley by glacial debris. A hard cap of flat-lying Devonian sandstone preserves the height of the crest of the waterfall, but lower soft shales of like age were easily eroded away to form the ravine below the falls. The large amount of disintegrated rock eroded to cut the canyon has formed a delta, the flat promontory in Cayuga Lake below the gorge, now used as a recreational area.


The park facilities include bathing beach, bathhouse, shelter pavilion, baseball diamond, bowling green, chil- dren's playground, parking areas, and camping and picnic areas.


The place is rich in Indian lore, summarized by markers along the gorge: it was the site in turn of an aboriginal Algonkian village, of the village of the Taughannocks, a Delaware tribe conquered by the Iroquois, and of a group formed by a Seneca-Cayuga union. The sites of the cabins of the first white settlers are also indicated.


South of Taughannock State Park the route follows State 89 along the shore of Cayuga Lake.


ITHACA, 45.5 m. (400 alt., 20,708 pop.), called by its admirers "the city beautiful," is known as an educational center. Just N. of the business section of the city, along the W. shore of Lake Cayuga, is the scene of Grace Miller White's book, Tess of the Storm Country. Three creeks, Fall, Cascadilla, and Six Mile, have cut deep gorges through the city. Stewart Park, the largest city park, lies on the shore of Cayuga Lake. Renwick Wildwood, preserved as a bird sanctuary, shelters more than 300 species of birds.


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CORNELL UNIVERSITY was founded in 1865 by Ezra Cornell. Each year it attracts about 7,500 students. The campus, covering 2,400 acres, has been called one of the most beautiful college campuses in America. Besides its endowed schools, the university includes three state-sup- ported colleges : the New York State College of Agriculture, the New York State College of Veterinary Medicine, and the State College of Home Economics.


ITHACA COLLEGE, with its main buildings grouped around De Witt Park, is a school of music, drama, and physical education.


Right from Ithaca, on State 13, is BUTTERMILK FALLS STATE PARK, 2.2 m., with an area of 510 acres, 164 of which were donated by Mr. and Mrs. Robert H. Treman of Ithaca in 1924. Within a distance of 1 m., Buttermilk Creek falls more than 500 ft. in a series of 10 cascades. Pinnacle Rock rises a sheer 50 ft. in the center of the stream. The trails offer views of Cornell University and Cayuga Lake. The park contains a swimming pool.


At 4.6 m. is junction (R) with State 327. Right on State 327 is ENFIELD GLEN STATE PARK, 7.8 m., comprising 831 acres, 385 of which were donated by Mr. and Mrs. Treman. Along the course of Enfield Creek within the park are 12 waterfalls; LUCIFER FALLS is 115 ft. high. The park contains a swimming pool and bath-houses.


SECTION E. ITHACA-SAVANNAH. STATE 34, 34B, 90, COUNTY ROADS, STATE 5, 414. 56 m.


The route leaves Ithaca on State 34, following the E. shore of Cayuga Lake.


INDIAN SPRING, 1.5 m. (L), is on the lowlands occupied by the Tedarighoones, Indians from the far South who were captured and adopted by the Cayugas.


At 4.4 m. is the SITE OF THE CAYUGA INDIAN VILLAGE in which lived Long Jim, an Indian chief who,


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ROCHESTER AND MONROE COUNTY


according to a tradition of his tribe, was responsible for the murder of Jane McCrea, 1777.


At 7.4 m. is junction (L) with State 34B; the route turns L. on State 34B.


At 9.1 m. are the hamlets of LUDLOWVILLE to the R. of the highway, and MYERS to the L.


In Myers is a large PLANT OF THE INTERNATIONAL SALT CO. The place was named for Andrew Myers, who settled on the site in 1791. Col. William Butler's detach- ment of Sullivan's army encamped on the heights above the town on Sept. 24, 1779.


At 9.3 m. State 34B crosses a gorge on a high bridge. At this point is the SITE OF A CAYUGA VILLAGE destroyed by Col. Butler's men.


KING FERRY, 19.4 m. (394 alt., 250 pop.), was named for John King, a pioneer, who operated a ferry across the lake in connection with a hotel he maintained on the shore. The town lies on the heights above the lake about halfway between Auburn and Ithaca.


At King Ferry is junction (L) with State 90; the route turns L. on State 90.


At 25.8 m. the view of the lake (L) is unsurpassed on this tour.


At 26.6 m. is junction with a macadam road.


Right on this road is MOONSHINE FALLS, 0.5 m., about 40 ft. high, in the gorge of Paines Creek. At the falls is the site of early saw, grist, and woolen mills built in 1810.


AURORA, 27.7 m. (394 alt., 389 pop.), settled in 1789, is the oldest village on Cayuga Lake. It was the first county seat of Onondaga County. Early court was held in PATRICK


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TAVERN, erected in 1793, in which the Cayuga Medical Society was organized in 1806. The first courthouse was built in 1804. The site of the first Masonic lodge room is marked: "Scipio Lodge-Masonic Charter 1797-Building erected 1806-Used by the Craft until 1819."


To-day's grade and high school was formerly CAYUGA LAKE ACADEMY, founded in 1799 and chartered by the State Board of Regents in 1801. The first building was erected in 1803, the present structure in 1835.


GLEN PARK, the home of Henry Wells, who founded the American Express Company in 1850, the Wells-Fargo Company in 1852, and Wells College in 1868, is in the village.


WELLS COLLEGE has an unusually beautiful campus of about 300 acres sloping up from the lake shore. It is a women's college offering the regular arts courses.


At 28.1 m. is the SITE OF THE FIRST HOUSE built in this region. It was constructed by Capt. Roswell Frank- lin, an officer in the Clinton-Sullivan campaign, who settled here in 1789.


At 28.3 m. is the SITE OF CHONODOTE, (Peachtown), a Cayuga village that, with its orchard of 1,500 peach trees, was destroyed during the Sullivan campaign of 1779.


At 28.5 m. (L) stands what is said to be the only RED- WOOD TREE E. of the Rocky Mountains. This giant sequoia was planted in 1821 by Peter Smith.


At LEVANNA, 30 m. (396 alt., 59 pop.), is junction (R) with a macadam road.


Right on this road is the SHERMAN FARM, 0.8 m., an important anthropological site, probably of an ancient Algonkian village, leased by Harry Follet. Excavations begun in 1929 and continued in 1932 uncovered effigies of a bear, a panther, a "thunder bird,"


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and other animals, all made of firestones, and all facing a stone altar the stones of which were entwined by hickory roots. Con- tinued excavations reveal new finds daily.


On the farm is an outdoor MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN INDIAN. Some of the exhibits have been restored; others have been left in their original state after excavation.


A white monument, 32 m. (R), marks the SITE OF THE FIRST HOUSE OF CHRISTIAN WORSHIP in western New York, a lodge erected by Jesuits in 1656. The inscrip- tion is of sufficient historical interest to warrant quoting: This Valley Was the Site of the Principal Indian Village. To the Brave French Jesuit Missionaries whose Heroism Was Almost Without Parallel, Joseph Chaumonot and Rene Menard who as Guests of Chief Saonchiogwa Built Here in 1656 the First Home of Christian Worship in Western New York; Stephen de Carheil who for Nine Years, ministered here and His Co-laborer Peter Raffeix.


Close by is the SITE OF CAYUGA CASTLE, Goi-o- bouen, the principal Cayuga village, destroyed by Sullivan on Sept. 23, 1779.


UNION SPRINGS, 34 m. (394 alt., 794 pop.), is well known for its fishing and duck hunting. Offshore lies Fron- tenac Island.


In SPRING MILLS, 34.4 m., is an OLD STONE MILL erected in 1839-1840 by George Nouland. Before that the site was occupied successively by two woolen mills.


At 35.3 m. the route takes the L. fork of the road to Cayuga.


A marker at 39.2 m. (L) indicates the SITE OF PIONEER HOUSE, home of Col. John Harris, first settler of Cayuga, who built a log cabin here in 1788 and established Harris's ferry across Cayuga Lake.


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CAYUGA LAKE AND ITHACA


CAYUGA, 40 m. (388 alt., 344 pop.), was Cayuga County's first county seat. The village was the eastern terminus of the once renowned "longest bridge in the world," over a mile long, crossing the foot of Cayuga Lake. It was built in 1799 and, though once demolished by ice, served the great flow of traffic east and west until 1857. One of Cayuga County's early jails stood under the E. end of the bridge.


The Cayuga district is one of the best fishing and hunting grounds in the state.


From Cayuga the route turns first R. and then L. on a gravel road which leads to a junction with State 5 (US 20) at 42.2 m. The route turns L. on State 5.


At 44.4 m. is junction (L) with a gravel road.


Left on this road is a boulder monument, 1.1 m., placed on the SITE OF THICHERO, a village of the Cayuga Nation, located at the point where the great Iroquois trail (and later the northern branch of the Seneca turnpike) crossed the Seneca River. A Jesuit mission, St. Stephen, was established here in the 17th century.


At 45.9 m. the route crosses the FATHER RENE MENARD MEMORIAL BRIDGE, erected in honor of that renowned Jesuit missionary who worked among the Indians in the 17th century.


At 46.3 m. is junction (R) with State 414; the route turns R. on State 414, which runs along the border of the Monte- zuma Marsh.


At 53 m. is junction with State 31; the route turns L. on State 31 at Savannah, 56 m.


SECTION F. SAVANNAH-LYONS. STATE 31. 13.8 m.


SAVANNAH (398 alt., 600 pop.), lies on an island formed by the Seneca River and the Canandaigua Outlet, the inlet to Black Rock, and Crusoe Lake and Creek. The muck farms, covering an area of about 12 m. by 2 m. culti-


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vated by some 500 owners, form an immense truck garden well known for the quality of its vegetables.


CLYDE, 6.2 m. (403 alt., 2,374 pop.), has a mineral spring in the public park in the center of the town; the water is free.


Originally Clyde was called "The Blockhouse," and later Lauraville. The blockhouse was used as a trading post by the French as early as 1754. Later it was used by the Tories as a smuggling station, and, acquiring an unsavory reputa- tion, was destroyed in a Government raid. The name Laura- ville was in honor of Laura, the daughter of Sir William Pulteney. The name Clyde was given the town by its Scot- tish settlers in memory of the river in the homeland.


The organ in the Episcopal Church is said to be one of the oldest organs in the United States. It was sent to an Episcopal church in Geneva by Trinity Church of New York, which had received it from England during the reign of Queen Anne.


LYONS, 13.8 m. (437 alt., 3,956 pop.), is one of the larger towns along State 31. The first settlers came to the site by boats on the Clyde River, calling the village which they founded the Forks. About 1795 Charles Williamson, impressed by the resemblance of the river to that of Lyons, France, renamed the settlement Lyons. The golden gleam of the courthouse dome rising above the stately elms of the park, the shimmer of the sun upon the river and the quaint charm of the old houses impart something of an old- world atmosphere to the town. The building of the Erie Canal and the coming of the railway in 1853 assured the prosperity of the town. As the county seat of Wayne County, Lyons is the commercial and political center of this section of the state.


SECTION G. LYONS-ROCHESTER. STATE 31. 39 m. (see Tour 12, Section a).


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MORMON HILL AND SODUS BAY


Rochester, Palmyra, Lyons, Sodus Point, Pultneyville, Sea Breeze, Rochester. State 31, 14, 18. Rochester-Rochester 93 m.


New York Central R. R. and bus line, Rochester to Lyons. Tourist houses at frequent intervals and hotel accommoda- tions in larger towns. Roads are hard-surfaced, open throughout the year.


The route passes through a section of apple and peach orchards, nurseries, and rose gardens.


SECTION A. ROCHESTER-LYONS. STATE 31. 37 m.


This section follows an important E .- W. travel artery, once the route of Indian trails, then of turnpikes, then the path of the Erie Canal, and finally of the four-track New York Central R. R. and the Barge Canal.


East from Four Corners on Main St. to East Ave .; R. on East Ave. (State 31) to the city line, 3.5 m.


State 31 (East Ave. as far as Pittsford) swings R. at 5.7 m.


PITTSFORD, 7.6 m. (475 alt., 1,460 pop.) (see Tour 8, Section .d).


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ROCHESTER AND MONROE COUNTY


At the Four Corners in Pittsford the route turns L. at the traffic lights and crosses the Barge Canal, 7.8 m.


EGYPT, 13.4 m. (498 alt., 108 pop.), is said to have been so named on account of the early planting of many corn fields, associating the locality with the biblical story of Joseph in Egypt and the 7 years of plenty. An orphan of the canal, it is now supported by farming and its lone in- dustry, the Egypt Canning Co. Egypt appears in the news columns annually in connection with the motorcycle hill- climbing contest held nearby.


On State 31, at 13.9 m., is junction (R) with a macadam road.


Right, on this road is junction (R) with a gravel road, 1.1 m., which leads (R) to KECH'S FARM 1.6 m., the scene of the annual motorcycle hill-climbing contest (admission 25 cents) sponsored by the Kodak City Motorcycle Club, Inc., under rules set by the American Motorcycle Association. The date is usually in June, but may be as late as September. The contest is held on the Peak, a cone-shaped hill with an altitude of 420 ft. from base to top.


At 18.1 m. is junction (R) with a macadam road.


Right, on this road is a QUAKER MEETING HOUSE, 2.8 m., the oldest W. of Utica. The present building was erected in 1876 to re- place one built in 1804. It is surrounded on three sides by an old Quaker cemetery.


Just a few rods beyond the church, the road turns R. and at 3.2 m. again turns R. into Farmington.


FARMINGTON, 3.2 m., was settled by Quakers in 1793. One of the first sales of land out of the tract known as the Phelps and Gorham Purchase was made here.


The IRIS FARM, 3.3 m. (L), owned by A. B. Katkamier, contains over 2,000,000 irises of 1,000 varieties, many of which were devel- oped here. A rock garden in front of Mr. Katkamier's home has furnished geologists a diversity of rock specimens. The rocks, which have all been gathered from nearby land, are believed to have been left in the underwash of the glacier. Geologists have


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MORMON HILL AND SODUS BAY


identified specimens of Barre granite from Vermont, garnet strati- fied rock from Labrador, Adirondack sandstone, and black and white mica from the far North. There is even a specimen of coral rock.


MACEDON, 18.4 m. (485 alt., 566 pop.), is a small com- munity that set out to become a city, but lapsed into peace- ful living, supported by the rich fruit and farming region which surrounds it.


At 22.4 m., just inside the corporate limits of Palmyra, is junction (R) with a dirt road.


R. on this road is the JOSEPH SMITH FARM, 1.8 m., purchased a score of years ago by the Mormon Church and now a shrine for Mormon pilgrims. The farm contains 152 acres, including the Sacred Grove, in which Smith is reputed to have seen his vision. In the house are preserved many relics of the Smith family, in- cluding a rare copy of the Book of Mormon published in 1830. In the upper room Joseph Smith claimed to have had a vision of the Angel Moroni, who showed him a hill with stones protruding from the ground, Cumorah Hill (see below), where he excavated the golden plates on which were engraved the words of the sacred book of the Mormons. Under the hearthstones in one of the lower-floor rooms the golden plates are supposed to have been hidden at one time.


At 2.7 m. the side route turns L. on a macadam road and at 3.5 m. R. on State 21.


CUMORAH HILL, 4.7 m., is the site of the supposed revelation of the Book of Mormon to Joseph Smith.


The MORMON MONUMENT, rising to a height of 40 ft. above the summit of the hill, was dedicated in 1935. At night floodlights center on the figure of the Angel Moroni atop the monument. Each of the four sides bears a bronze plate: the one on the W. is inscribed "Joseph Receives the Plates"; on the S., "The Three Witnesses"; on the E. "The Eight Witnesses"; the N. bears this inscription:


Exhortation of Moroni. And When Ye Shall Receive These Things, I would Exhort you That Ye Would Ask God the Eternal Father in the Name of Christ if These Things Are


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ROCHESTER AND MONROE COUNTY


Not True And if Ye Shall Ask With a Sincere Heart, with Real Intent, Having Faith in Christ, He Will Manifest the Truth of It Unto You by the Power of the Holy Ghost. Moroni 10.4.


Retrace to State 31: R. on State 31.


PALMYRA, 22.7 m. (500 alt., 2,592 pop.), grew up around the settlement started by John Swift, who estab- lished a wool-carding machine and ashery in 1791, laid out Main St. in 1792, and built a boat landing at the mouth of Red Creek in 1796. The village was incorporated on March 29, 1827. Many of the early settlers in Palmyra and vicinity were Quakers, whose descendants still live in the locality. The leading industry is the manufacture of steam packing.


At the four corners, otherwise known as the Corner of the Four Churches (Presbyterian, Methodist, Baptist, and Episcopal), is a tablet identifying the Presbyterian Church as the oldest in the town.


Rear Admiral William Thomas Sampson (1840-1902), commander of the American Fleet in the Battle of Santiago, was born in Palmyra.


East of Palmyra State 31 parallels the New York State Barge Canal.


PORT GIBSON, 27.7 m. (480 alt., 350 pop.), owes its origin to the Erie Canal, and had a much larger population during the period of greatest activity on that waterway.


NEWARK, 30.8 m. (456 alt., 7,647 pop.), is the largest town between Rochester and Syracuse. The chief industries are canning and the manufacture of enamelware.


In the ROSE GARDENS of the Jackson Perkins Co., 305 Madison St. (open to visitors; apply at office), new varieties of roses are developed and propagated and flowers are im- ported from all corners of the earth.


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MORMON HILL AND SODUS BAY


Left from the four corners in Newark, on State 88 (N.) to junc- tion with a macadam road at 1.2 m .; L. on this road and L. on another macadam road at 1.4 m. to HYDESVILLE, 2 m. The place has only a garage and a house to mark its existence; but in a weed- grown lot by the side of the road stands a marker (R) indicating the BIRTHPLACE OF SPIRITUALISM. On this site stood the cottage home of the Fox Sisters, through whose mediumship com- munication with the spirit world is said to have been established on March 31, 1848.


At 32.2 m. a macadam road leads R. to the NEWARK STATE SCHOOL FOR MENTAL DEFECTIVES (visitors admitted only by special permission), a conspicuous landmark looming high on the hill. This institution cares for nearly 2,000 inmates and employs 340 nurses, doctors, and attend- ants.


East of Newark, State 31 runs along the bank of the Barge Canal.


LYONS, 37 m. (437 alt., 3,956 pop.) (see Tour 11, Section f). SECTION B.LYONS-SODUS POINT. STATE 14, 16 m.


This section of the route runs straight N. through un- dulating orchard lands towards Lake Ontario, the highway constantly dipping and rising, producing the effect of a mild ride on a roller coaster.


North from Lyons on State 14.


ALTON, 12 m. (420 alt., 200 pop.), was in pioneer days a division point on the stage route from Buffalo to Water- town. At the Hotel Alton, still serving the public, stages stopped for fresh horses, while passengers rested and ate. Old residents tell of flocks of turkeys and droves of sheep driven from here to California in the gold rush days, across treeless prairies and through mountain passes. It is claimed that the sheep were included in the party to provide a roost for the turkeys at night.


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ROCHESTER AND MONROE COUNTY


ALASA FARMS, 13.8 m. (R) (open to visitors by special per- mission), comprise an estate of more than 1,600 acres which once belonged to the Shakers; it is now devoted to stock raising. Its manor house on high ground overlooks the lower waters of Sodus Bay.


At 15.4 m. Sodus Bay appears (R), with the coal docks of the Pennsylvania R. R. extending out into the water like a huge trussed bridge half completed.


SODUS POINT, 16.5 m. (280 alt., 525 pop.), is a well- known summer resort situated on a point of land extending deep into Sodus Bay. There are numerous cottages, summer hotels, and amusement concessions. Boating, fishing, din- ing, and dancing are provided at varying prices.


At 16.7 m. (L), two markers 100 ft. apart tell of a battle between the American and British forces on June 19, 1813, and of the burning of the town by the British. The road ends, 17.5 m., at the water's edge.


SECTION C. SODUS POINT-ROCHESTER. STATE 18. 40 m.


This section of the route, closely following the Lake Ontario shore, passes through another fruit-growing district.


PULTNEYVILLE, 12.5 m. (274 alt., 257 pop.), came into being in 1807 when a Captain Troop built a frame house on the present site of the Holling homestead. Its early activi- ties were divided between gristmilling and lake shipping. Today a monument "In Memory of the Lake Captains of Pultneyville" stands overlooking the lake where the boats landed at two long, finger-like docks, now crumbling with age and disuse. A bronze plaque imbedded in the monument gives a list of 27 lake captains, headed by Samuel Troop and interspersed with the names of his descendants.


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