USA > New York > Monroe County > Rochester > Rochester and Monroe County: A history and guide > Part 18
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Goat Island was named after the goat that was the sole survivor of the severe winter of 1779; all the other goats placed there by John Stedman froze to death. Before that it was known as Iris Island on account of the iridescent rain- bow hues that hover over the spot when the sun shines on the white mist rising from the falling waters.
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ROCHESTER AND MONROE COUNTY
LUNA ISLAND, 91.3 m., the island of the moon, derived its name from the delicate colors of the lunar bows arching over Luna Falls. One of the most impressive views of the Falls is that from Luna Island out across the American Falls with the indistinct tracery of the Steel Arch Bridge span- ning the gorge in the misty background. In the winter the ice formations and the myriad patterns formed by the frozen spray transform the island into a white fairyland.
THE CAVE OF THE WINDS, 91.4 m. ($1 a trip), offers an exciting experience. Two elevators conduct tourists to the foot of the falls, from which a series of footways and bridges leads through a succession of remarkable views. The climax is the walk behind Luna Falls through a passage -the Cave of the Winds-filled with the wild howling of a thousand cross-currents of air.
TERRAPIN POINT, 91.5 m., is an excellent vantage ground from which to view the Horseshoe Falls. On Terra- pin Rocks, which are reached by a walk guarded by hand- rails, the spectator stands far out from the shore on the brink of the Falls with the river plunging over the precipice behind him. Just ahead he looks out over the cataract directly into the deep cleft that forms the apex of Horse- shoe Falls, the point where the largest part of the vast accumulation of water concentrates in an exhibition of limitless power.
From THREE SISTER ISLANDS, 92 m., is the best view of the upper rapids. The islands, named for the three daughters of Gen. Parkhurst Whitney, an early hotel proprietor, are reached by a series of picturesque bridges, and form one of the most pleasant stopping places at the Falls.
Between Goat Island and the First Sister Island is HER- MIT'S CASCADE, named for Francis Abbott, son of an
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NIAGARA FALLS AND FORT NIAGARA
English Quaker family, who lived on Goat Island most of the time for 2 years, 1929-1931, bathing at this spot each day. He was drowned in 1931, leaving many strange and conflicting stories regarding his somewhat eccentric char- acter and the abrupt ending of his life.
From beyond the upper end of Goat Island, 92.2 m., is a splendid view of the upper river and the beginning of the rapids. The route continues along the eastern shore of the island in full view of the rapids above the American Falls.
Recrossing the bridge to the mainland, the route turns R. on Riverside Drive, 92.7 m., which follows the bank of the river. This street merges into Buffalo Ave., which the route then follows.
The HOME OF SHREDDED WHEAT 93.4 m. (L), is on Buffalo Ave. between Fourth and Sixth Sts. (open to visitors weekdays 9-5; free guide-conducted tours).
The CARBORUNDUM COMPANY, 94.1 m. (R), produc- ing all kinds of abrasives and abrasive machinery, is one of the great manufactories in the city of Niagara Falls. This plant was enlarged during the World War when it became necessary for America to make many materials formerly imported from Europe.
The route retraces Buffalo Ave. to Falls St .; R. on Falls St.
The MUSEUM, 95.8 m. (R) (admission 25 cents, daily 9-5), directly opposite Prospect Park on Riverway, is a store- house of historical relics and unusual objects. It is one of the oldest museums in America.
Just beyond the Museum the route turns L. through Prospect Park.
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FALLS VIEW BRIDGE, 96 m. (tolls: 25 cents for car and driver, 5 cents for each additional passenger), often called the Steel Arch Bridge, offers an unobstructed view of the Ameri- can Falls, Luna Falls, the face of the cliff forming the front of Goat Island, and the Canadian Falls.
The route crosses the bridge to Canada. Simple customs . formalities are necessary on the Canadian side. At the Canadian end of the bridge the route turns L.
QUEEN VICTORIA PARK, 96.2 m., maintained by the Canadian Government, offers some of the most striking views of the Falls, especially of the Horseshoe Falls. In this park the huge batteries of lights, aggregating one billion four hundred million candlepower, are directed upon the Falls in the spectacular night illumination.
TABLE ROCK, 97 m. (L), was once a popular vantage ground from which to view Horseshoe Falls. In 1848 a great section of Table Rock fell, and under subsequent blast- ings to insure safety this limestone ledge has almost dis- appeared; but it remains an outstanding scenic vantage point. Close by is the scenic tunnel (fee, $1.) through which one can pass directly behind the Horseshoe Falls.
HYDROELECTRIC POWER COMMISSION PLANT, 98 m. (L), (visitors welcome) is opposite the rapids. Here are the giant generators supplying hundreds of thousands of horsepower of electrical energy to the industries and homes of Canada. An elevator takes the visitor deep into the earth, where turbines utilize the vast power of the Niagara River.
DUFFERIN ISLANDS lie in an elbow of the river at the crest of the upper rapids and at the southern extremity of Queen Victoria Park. The natural beauty of the setting has been preserved by the Niagara Parks Commission.
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From this point the route retraces through Queen Victoria Park past the Horseshoe Falls and the Falls View Bridge, continuing along the newly built boulevard at the top of the gorge on the Canadian side.
At 101.2 m. the route passes under the entrances of the two railway bridges which cross the gorge, and arrives again at the Whirlpool, 102.2 m., where an entirely new view is afforded.
At this point the SPANISH AERO RAILWAY operates passenger cars (fee, 50 cents) on an aerial cable railway across the Whirlpool from shore to shore on the Canadian side of the river. Dangling in a car suspended by cables, the passenger looks down into the swirling waters of the Whirlpool.
NIAGARA GLEN, 104.2 m., at the edge of the river be- low the Whirlpool, is a spot of unusual beauty. Giant pot- holes and other grotesque reminders of the recession of Niagara ages ago are visible on every side. The rare plant life makes the glen especially interesting to naturalists and nature students.
At 105.9 m. is the northernmost PLANT of the Hydro- Electric Power Commission of Canada, which houses more generators which convert the energy of Niagara into power and light.
BROCK'S MONUMENT, 107 m. (L), stands high on the crest of Queenston Heights, a memorial to the last battle- ground of Gen. Isaac Brock, who died on this battlefield in the War of 1812. A smaller monument marks his grave part way down the slope. A stairway leads to the top of the monument overlooking the lower river.
At 107.7 m. the route turns R.
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ROCHESTER AND MONROE COUNTY
LEWISTON SUSPENSION BRIDGE, 108 m., is the only remaining example of the suspension-bridge type of con- struction spanning the Niagara River. It connects Lewiston and Queenston at the head of navigation on the river. In the summer large lake steamers depart from these cities to various ports on Lake Ontario and points on the St. Law- rence River.
The route crosses the bridge and again enters United States territory, and turns L. on State 18E. At the border, it is necessary to observe simple customs formalities.
Passing through Lewiston, 109 m., the highway runs northward to the lake.
YOUNGSTOWN, 115 m. (280 alt., 639 pop.), lying close to the mouth of the Niagara River, is largely dependent commercially on its fleet of fishing boats which supply the Buffalo market with lake fish.
OLD FORT NIAGARA, 116.7 m. (open to visitors: summer, 9-9; rest of year, 9-5; admission 25 cents; guide service; free park- ing), is a restoration of the 10 buildings, the outer and inner works, and the parade grounds comprising the 1678-1815 fortifications. The original plans, recently discovered in France, were carefully followed in the restoration. Since 1924 about $600,000 have been spent on this work by the United States Government, and the Old Fort Niagara Association, Inc. Perhaps the most interesting restoration is the French castle built in 1725 in the guise of a provincial manor house in order to deceive the Indians as to its real purpose. The rock walls are 4 feet thick with huge stone arches constructed to absorb the lateral sway that might be caused by the firing of cannon from the top deck. The oven, where cannon balls were heated red-hot to fire the enemy's ships, stands near the river wall north of the castle.
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Three major memorials have been erected at Fort Niagara and recently dedicated with appropriate ceremonies; one to Fort Conti (1679), one to Fort Denonville (1687), and one to the Rush-Bagot Treaty of 1817, which provided that the whole United States-Canadian border remain unfortified. For 120 years the 3,000 miles marking the boundary be- tween the two nations has remained without modern forts and without military patrols or guards. From three tall flagpoles standing in the large central enclosure float in friendliness the flags of France, Great Britain, and the United States, the three nations which have fought over and occupied the fortification.
A UNITED STATES ARMY POST is immediately out- side the old fort. Cars may be driven around the post past the barracks.
The route retraces to Youngstown and at 117.2 m. turns L. on State 18.
SECTION B. YOUNGSTOWN-ROCHESTER. STATE 18. 91.8 m.
For mile after mile State 18 borders the shore of Lake Ontario. Through Niagara, Orleans, and Monroe Counties, the route traverses an important fruit-growing section.
OLCOTT, 19.8 m. (280 alt., 300 pop.), is a farming center and resort town with a beach and casino on the lake. The village was settled by John Brewer and William Chambers, who came from Canada in 1807. Between 1870 and 1877 the United States Government expended $200,000 in the con- struction of two piers extending 800 feet into the lake, one on either side of the mouth of Eighteen Mile Creek, form- ing an excellent harbor, with a lighthouse at the end of the western pier.
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KUCKVILLE, 43.9 m. (334 alt., 150 pop.), was originally a dam in the small stream with a mill which utilized its power for turning wood. It was named for Rev. George Kuck, born in London, England, Dec. 23, 1791, who served as a lieutenant in the Canadian militia during the War of 1812.
CARLTON, 48 m. (293 alt., 150 pop.), an attractive vil- lage shaded by old trees and almost entirely surrounded by Old Orchard Creek, raises apples and grapes. It was settled in 1803 by James Walworth, who rowed his family from Canada across Lake Ontario in an open boat, and who is said to have built the first house on the southern shore of the lake between Fort Niagara and Braddock Bay.
In Carlton is intersection with State 98.
Left on State 98 is POINT BREEZE, 3 m. (271 alt., summer popu- lation), a summer resort on Lake Ontario at the mouth of Old Orchard Creek. It provides facilities for bathing, boating, and fishing.
KENDALL, 61.5 m. (346 alt., 263 pop.), was named for Amos Kendall, Postmaster General in 1837, when the town was formed. The first settlers came from Vermont in 1812, and about 1820 formed a public library association, with an initial list of 75 books. The evaporation of salt was a source of income until the building of the Erie Canal gave access to a more abundant supply.
HAMLIN, 65.4 m. (291 alt., 500 pop.) (see Tour 2, Section b).
For the route from Hamlin to Rochester, 91.8 m., (see Tour 2, Section c).
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TOUR 2
CHURCHVILLE & HAMLIN BEACH PARKS
Rochester, Churchville County Park, Bergen, Hamlin Beach Park, Hilton, Charlotte, Rochester. State 33, 63, 360, 18, county roads. Rochester-Rochester, 70 m.
All paved roads, mostly concrete; open to traffic all year. New York Central R. R. and bus lines to Churchville. Streetcar Charlotte to Rochester.
The route circles the northwestern part of Monroe County, passing through a farming and fruit-growing sec- tion with frequent wooded tracts.
SECTION A. ROCHESTER-BERGEN. STATE 33. 18.1 m.
West from Rochester Four Corners on Main St., which becomes West Ave .; R. on Buffalo Rd. (State 33) to the city line at the BARGE CANAL, 3.2 m.
The DOLOMITE PRODUCTS COMPANY, 3.9 m. (L), affiliated with the Dolomite Marine Corporation, was or- ganized in 1920; it mines and processes the mineral dolo- mite, used extensively in the construction of roads. In the season 1935-36 the company furnished stone for 90 miles of state and town road construction. The stratum of dolo- mite, 3,000 feet wide, runs under the town of Gates and out- crops at Penfield, 10 m. E. where a second plant is situated. These two plants now produce 600,000 tons of stone a year.
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GATES CENTER, 4.2 m. (564 alt., 75 pop.), named for Gen. Horatio Gates of Revolutionary War fame, has one of the largest Granges in the state. The section is purely agricultural, with no industries, and is the rural home of many persons employed in Rochester.
The seed farm of the Harris Seed Company, 7.4 m., main- tains an elaborate ROADSIDE STORE which offers a variety of nursery products and seeds for sale in season.
NORTH CHILI, 10.6 m. (582 alt., 350 pop.), marks the junction with State 259.
CHESBROUGH SEMINARY (R), at the entrance to the village, a Free Methodist coeducational boarding school with an attendance of over 150, includes junior college and high school departments, the latter accredited by the New York State Board of Regents.
The seminary, which celebrated its 70th anniversary in 1936, was originally established in an old tavern at the corner of Union Street and Buffalo Road. In order to elimin- ate the tavern's detrimental influence on the community, Bishop Benjamin Titus Roberts, founder of the Methodist Church in Albion, purchased the property and founded the school, first called Chili Seminary. In 1890 the present name was adopted in honor of A. M. Chesbrough, a benefactor.
The seminary is partly self-supporting and partly sup- ported by a number of Free Methodist conferences of the eastern states. Many students pay for one-third of their tuition by work on the dairy farm of 200 acres, in the laundry, in the printing department, in the dining room, and in the office and library.
CHURCHVILLE, 14.8 m. (616 alt., 740 pop.), is a village of wide streets and spacious lawns, with no large industries to disturb its peace. Rochester Cooperage Company employs
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intermittently about 60 men. The old cobblestone school- house, which served the village in its early days, is now superseded by the two new schools nearby.
In the small park, conspicuous in the center of the village, is a MEMORIAL TO FRANCES E. WILLARD, famous temperance advocate and founder of the W. C. T. U., who was born in Churchville Sept. 28, 1839, and died Feb. 17, 1898. Part of her original home forms the rear of the build- ing at 24 S. Main St.
At the traffic light a right turn on N. Main St. leads to CHURCH- VILLE COUNTY PARK, .5 m., which covers 532 acres (reserva- tions for privileges must be made at the park office at the north entrance on Kendall Road). There are picnic areas throughout the grove, cabins for day use (no overnight camping), swimming, boating, fishing, (certain restrictions), baseball diamonds-hardball and soft, a football field, a skating rink, tennis and horseshoe courts, and an 18-hole golf course (greens fee: 50 cents for county residents, 75 cents for non-residents).
The route continues west on State 33. At 17.6 m. the route follows the R. fork of the highway over a concrete town road into Bergen, 18.1 m.
SECTION B. BERGEN, HAMLIN BEACH PARK, STATE 63, 360. 19.8 m.
Through this section of the route the highway passes northward across the Ridge and its ancient trail, now an important east-west roadway, and through the fruit belt of western New York.
BERGEN, 0.0 m. (575 alt., 724 pop.), is on the main line of the New York Central R. R. The pioneer of the village was Samuel Lincoln, who came in the spring of 1801. Fur- ther settlement was retarded by rising land prices but after 1804 more settlers came. The first Congregational church, which was organized in December 1807, held its first meet-
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ings in a log barn. Samuel Butler established the first tavern in 1809, and in 1812 Bergen was set off as a separate town.
Residents tell a story about Solomon and Levi Leach, brothers, who were among the early settlers. They traded wives, Levi giving Solomon 5 gallons of whiskey "to boot." Quite dissatisfied with his bargain after 2 weeks, Solomon gave Levi a horse to trade back.
From Bergen the Swamp Road leads NW to the border of BERGEN SWAMP, 1 m., which extends westerly from a point near State 63 a distance of over 15 m., with a maximum width of slightly over 1 m. This swamp is rich in flora which attract students of botany from far and near. There is small danger of depredation for the swamp is said to be policed by rattlesnakes. Blacksnakes are also abundant and deer are seen from time to time. There is but one road across the swamp, so that visitors are obliged to depend on what are little better than animal trails. Some efforts have been exerted to make of this swamp a state conservation area, but as yet nothing definite has been accomplished. Considerable cedar is found and cedar posts are taken out annually in quantity. A marl deposit has been located, and effort has been made to organize a company to exploit it; but nothing has been done because the original owners of practically all the land in this vicinity, when giving deeds to purchasers and settlers, specifically reserved the rights to all minerals, ores, oils, salt or salt springs. Gypsum is also known to be present in large amounts.
BROCKPORT, 8.9 m. (539 alt., 3,511 pop.), is the com- mercial center for the farming country within a radius of about 6 miles. Named for its founder, Hiel Brockway, it became an incorporated village on April 6, 1829.
The main street divides the village into two sections un- connected by cross streets. The explanation given by local tradition is that, because of an ancient grudge between them, each of the two influential citizens who were largely responsible for the building of the village, planned his half without consulting the other.
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CHURCHVILLE AND HAMLIN BEACH PARKS
From 1844 to 1847 a factory in Brockport manufactured McCormick reapers. From 1870 to 1882 the Johnston Har- vester Co., now the Massey Harris Co. of Batavia, had its plant here.
The chief industrial plant to-day is the Quaker Maid Canning Co., a subsidiary of the Atlantic and Pacific Tea Co. which buys much of the vegetables and fruits produced in this section. Transportation facilities are provided by the Greyhound Bus Lines and the Falls Branch of the New York Central R. R. The Barge Canal also runs through the town.
The village has seven churches and an active Grange. The BROCKPORT STATE NORMAL SCHOOL, opened in 1866, is housed in a brick structure erected in 1855 and later rebuilt in its present form of a central building with two wings 3 stories high. This institution is similar to other New York State normal schools, offering a 3 year course, including a training class based on the individual cadet system. Entrance requirements demand an average high school standing of 72 percent or above.
Brockport has many attractive old homes built in the early half of the 19th century. The HOME of MARY JANE HOLMES, novelist, still stands, although it bears little resemblance to its original form; during her occupancy it was the scene of wide hospitality.
CLARKSON, 10.5 m. (427 alt., 230 pop.), is at the inter- section with U. S. 104 (see Tour 1, Section a).
HAMLIN (CENTER) 14.9 m., and HAMLIN (STATION) 15.6 m. (291 alt., 500 pop.), are served by the same schools and stores. Because of an interesting incident in its early history, the latter settlement is divided into two distinct sections a short distance apart. A branch of the New York Central R. R., the only transportation facility, crosses its
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northern part. When the railroad was being surveyed, a faction opposing it persuaded the settlers that its construc- tion would be detrimental to the development of the town. The railroad therefore purchased land for a right-of-way north of the settlement and eventually drew to itself the larger portion of the population.
Near the railroad is Hamlin's principal industry, the canning plant of the Duffy-Mott Company, affording a local market for about 175,000 bushels of apples annually, which, together with other fruits, are made into jams, jellies, and preserves.
At 15.7 m. the route follows the left fork on State 360; continues straight at next intersection; at 18.9 m. turns L. on Moscow Road to the W. entrance of Hamlin Beach Park.
HAMLIN BEACH PARK, 19.8 m. (R), is one of the largest county parks of Monroe. It has an area of 600 acres and includes a mile and a quarter of lake frontage with an excellent bathing beach. Extensive road building and other improvements are in progress, carried on by the Civilian Conservation Corps, which maintains a camp near the park. This project includes the construction of a concrete sea wall and promenade along the entire lake front, six long stone and concrete jetties to hold sand for bathing beaches, 3 miles of macadam and 2 miles of hard-surfaced roads, 2 miles of concrete parkway, a sewage disposal plant, a water system for the entire park, the excavation of 35 acres of land for a yacht basin, and complete landscaping.
SECTION C. HAMLIN BEACH PARK-ROCHESTER. STATE 63, 18; COUNTY ROADS. 32 m.
On the return trip to Rochester the route retraces to Hamlin Center, 5 m., where it turns L. on State 18, which passes through a rich fruit country.
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CHURCHVILLE AND HAMLIN BEACH PARKS
HILTON, 11.8 m. (284 alt., 923 pop.), is at the junction of State 18 and 259. Two cold storage plants and a canning factory are the most important industries. This section of Monroe County has specialized in the raising of apples since 1812, when the first commercial apple orchard was planted. Today in this orchard 5-year experiments are being con- ducted with electrically charged lamps to capture fruit flies and moths that injure crops.
In Hilton State 18, joined by State 259, turns R.
PARMA CENTER, 13.8 m. (270 alt., 100 pop.), has a two-story BRICK BUILDING (R) which once served as the Methodist Church. The first sermon was preached to the congregation in 1804 and the first class was organized in 1811. The present church building was erected in 1830.
At Parma Center the route turns L., still following State 18 which, E. of 16.2 m., is known as Latta Road.
Beyond NORTH GREECE, 20.8 m., the route turns L. on Greenleaf Road at 22.4 m., and continues northward toward the lake shore.
LAKE SHORE COUNTRY CLUB, 23.2 m., (R) has an 18-hole golf course (open to public; greens fee: weekday morn- ings 50 cents; ȘI for afternoons or entire day; Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays: $1 for 18 holes).
At 23.3 m. (L) is the PUMPING PLANT of the Rochester and Lake Ontario Water Co., which supplies Charlotte and the northern section of Rochester.
At 23.4 m. the route turns R. on Beach Ave. and crosses the Rochester city line.
At 24.4 m., R. on Lake Ave. to the Four Corners.
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TOUR 3
INDIAN FALLS & TONAWANDA INDIAN RESERVATION
Rochester, Churchville, Bergen, Batavia, Indian Falls, Ton- awanda Reservation, Oakfield, Byron Center, Rochester. State 33, 5, 77, 19, 262, town road, State 237. Rochester- Rochester, 96 m.
Highways concrete and macadam, open throughout the year. New York Central R. R. parallels the route to Batavia. Bus lines to Indian Falls. Hotel accommodations and tourist homes at frequent intervals.
The route passes through fertile farm lands rich in pioneer landmarks. Starting in the Phelps and Gorham territory, the highway passes through the land once claimed by Connecticut and through the Holland Purchase tract.
SECTION A. ROCHESTER-BERGEN. STATE 33. 19 m. (SEE TOUR 2, SECTION A).
SECTION B. BERGEN-TONAWANDA RESERVATION. STATE 33, 5, 77. 31 m.
BERGEN, 0.0 m.
At 12.7 m. State 33 joins State 5, one of the principal east-west arterial highways of New York State.
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TONAWANDA INDIAN RESERVATION
BATAVIA, 14 m. (895 alt., 16,375 pop.), the largest city between Rochester and Buffalo, is an important industrial center. The business section lies along the main street.
On E. Main St. are the RICHMOND MANSION, now a home for children, and the CAREY HOMESTEAD, pre- sented by the Carey heirs to the city, both excellent ex- amples of Colonial architecture.
Just W. of the business district is the HOLLAND LAND OFFICE MUSEUM (L), 131 W. Main St. (open to visitors in summer), erected in 1804. The building was dedicated in 1894 to the memory of Robert Morris, financier of the Revolutionary War, who owned large tracts of land in western New York and in 1798 sold 3,500,000 acres to the Holland Land Co. The aim of the Holland Purchase Society, which occupies the building, is to gather all historical materials and relics that have any relation to the Holland Land Purchase.
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