USA > New York > Geography of the state of New York. Embracing its physical features, climate, geology, mineralogy, botany, zoology, history, pursuits of the people, government, education, internal improvements &c. With statistical tables, and a separate description and map of each county > Part 2
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Several of the steamers (of which there are some hundreds), employed on this lake, are of more than 1000 tons burthen ; and for convenience and excellence of accommodations are unrivalled.
Lake Ontario is the second in size and importance, lying upon the northwest of the State.
It is of a very regular, elliptical form, 190 miles in length, 55 in its extreme width, and about 485 in circumference.
It is in some places over 600 feet in depth, having a mean depth of 492 feet, and in every part sufficient water for the largest vessels. Its surface is 334 foet lower than that of Lake Erie, and 231 feet above the level of the Atlantic.
The commerce of Lake Ontario is extensive; and its ports open usually earlier than those of Lake Erie. Of these, the principal, lying in the state of New York, are Oswego, Sacketts Harbor, and Port Genesee or Charlotte. It is less subject to violent storms and heavy swells than Lake Erie. Its area in 5400 mq. miles.
Lake Champlain, forming a portion of the eastern boundary, is a long and narrow sheet of water, of great beauty and con- taining a number of fine islands. Of these, Valcour and Schuy- ler, besides several smaller islets, belong to New York ; the others to Vermont.
Its extreme length is 134 miles ; its breadth varies from 40 rods to 14 miles ; and its depth from 54 to 282 feet. In the winter it is usually entirely closed by ice for about two months. During the remainder of the year, large steamers and sloops navigate its waters, richly freighted with the produce of the counties along its shores.
Lake George, or Horicon, named by the French, Lac Sacra- ment, on account of the purity of its waters, lies south of Lake Champlain.
It is two or three miles in breadth and thirty-six 'in length. Its surface is 243 feet above tide water. It discharges itself into Lake Champlain by a descent of 150 feet. A steamboat plies upon its waters during the summer.
The lake is surrounded by hills, towering to the height of 1200 or 1500 feet. The numerous islands which stud its placid surface ; the transparency of its wa- ters, which reveals the pebbles beneath, at a depth of 40 feet ; and the rich and varied scenery which surrounds it, all combine to render it one of the most de- lightful resorts in the state, to the invalid or the man of business.
The northern portion of the State abounds with small lakes, seldom exceeding six or eight miles in length, and two or three in breadth. Their number is probably not less than 200.
Some of these, among the Adirondack group of mountains, are greatly elevated. Avalanche lake, in Essex county, is 2900 feet, Colden lake, in the same county, 2750 feet, and Racket lake, in Hamilton county, 1731 feet above tide water.
The central portion has a chain of lakes of considerable size and importance.
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PHYSICAL FEATURES.
Thay extend through the counties of Oneida, Oswego, Onondaga, Cayuga, Beneca, Yates, Ontario and Livingston ; and are hardly surpassed in beautiful and picturesque scenery.
The principal lakes in this chain are Seneca, Cayuga, Oneida, Crooked and Canandaigua.
The first four are navigated by steam and canal boats. They are generally from 300 to 600 feet deep, and from 400 to 700 feet above the surface of the Atlantic.
The other lakes, connected with this chain, are Onondaga, Cross, Otisco, Cazenovia, Skeneateles, Owasco, Honeoye, Can- adice and Conesus.
These are all small, but are worthy of notice, for the beautiful scenery which surrounds them. Extensive salt springs abound on the shores of the Onondaga, whose waters are, notwithstanding, fresh.
The only other lakes of importance are Otsego and Canade- raga in Otsego county, and Chautauque, in Chautauque county.
RIVERS. The Hudson, 320 miles in length, is the largest river lying wholly in the State, and one of the finest navigable streams in the United States. It rises among the Adirondack group of mountains, and flows almost directly South to the bay of New York. It is navigable for eteamboats of the largest size, and sloops, to Troy, 160 miles from its mouth.
In the number and magnificence of its steamers, and in the extent of business done upon its waters, it is probably surpassed only by the Ohio and Mississippi rivers.
The principal branches of the Hudson are, the Hoosick on the east side, and the Mohawk on the west.
The Hoosick, rising in Berkshire county, Mass., runs northwest and west, and furnishes many fine mill seats.
The Mohawk takes its rise in Oneida and Lewis counties. It pursues at first a southerly course ; then, changing to east southeast, it forras the valley of the Mohawk. Its length is about 130 miles.
The other tributaries of the Hudson are, on the east, Schroon branch, the outlet of Schroon lake; Battenkill, Kinderhook and Croton rivers; on the west, Wallkill, Rondout, Esopus, Kaat- crekill and Sacandaga, besides several smaller streama.
The St. Lawrence forms the northwestern boundary of New York, for a hundred miles; and is the outlet of the great Amer- ican lakes.
It conveys to the ocean a larger body of water than any other river in the world, except the Amazon. It is navigable for sjoops as far as Ogdensburg, 60 miles from Lake Ontario. Below this point, the frequent rapids render naviga- tion dimcult and dangerous.
The Thousand Islands lie near its junction with Lake Ontario, a portion of which, and some others belong to the United States. This group actually exceeds 1500 in number.
The Oswego is the next in importance in the State. Its whole length is 120 miles.
Under the name of Mud creek, it rises in Ontario county, and flowing easterly receives, through the Canandaigua outlet, the waters of Canandaigua lake. Pro- seeding eastwardly under the name of the Clyde, it receives the waters of Sences
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STATE OF NEW YORK.
and Cayuga lakes through their common outlet, and assumes the name of Seneca river. After a still farther enlargement by the waters of Onondaga lake, it takes the title of Oswego river; and suddenly curving towards the northwest, collects from the Oneida river ite tribute of the waters of Oneida lake, and discharges itself into Lake Ontario. It has about 100 feet fall after assuming the name of Oswego river, and furnishes, by its constant supply of water, valuable mill privileges. Seven thousand square miles of territory are drained by its waters ; and, by means of the Oswego Canal and locka, it is navigable for its whole extent.
The Allegany river, one of the sources of the Ohio, takes its rise in Allegany county, and is navigable for stea r ers of small draft from Olean, a distance of about 40 miles, to the state line. - The Susquehanna and Delaware both take their rise in this state, and, though not navigable to any considerable extent, afford fine seats for mille.
The other principal rivers of the state are, the Niagara, which is the connecting link between Lakes Erie and Ontario, and forms the celebrated falls of the same name;
The Genesee, distinguished for its immense water power, and for being the feeder of the Genesee Valley Canal ;
It is navigable almost to Rochester, and is 145 miles in length, emptying into Lake Ontario.
The Black, the third river in size, lying wholly in the state, and also discharging its waters into Lake Ontario; it is 120 miles in length, and navigable for 40 miles.
The Chenango and the Chemung, important tributaries of the Susquehanna ;
The Oswegatchie, rising in Herkimer county, the principal tributary of the St. Lawrence.
The other streams flowing into the St. Lawrence are Indian, Grasse, Racket, St. Regis and Salmon rivers.
Chazy and Saranac are the chief streams flowing into Lake Champlain.
CLIMATE OF NEW YORK.
From the extent and diversity of its surface, it is impossible to give a general description of the climate of New York, which would apply with equal truth to each section of the state. We can only say that it is subject to great extremes of heat and cold; and that, although in the same latitude, which in Europe produces the fig, the olive and the grape, its more severe cli- mate admits only of the culture of the hardier plants and grains.
The state, though subject to sudden and severe changes, may be considered healthy. The number of deaths to the popu- lation is not greater than in the other states ; nor do malignant diseases prevail to any considerable extent.
* The facts on which this article is based have been collected from a chapter on the climate of the state in Gordon's Gazetteer; from the reports of the Re- gents of the University ; and from a paper in the Quarterly Journal of Agriculture.
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CLIMATE.
In the eastern counties, consumption and other diseases of the lungs are the prevailing maladies ; in the western counties, bilious affections are more preva- lent. Cholera Infantum is a common and fatal disease with children in the cities and large towns, during the summer and autumn.
It has been ascertained, by numerous observations made in this state and New England, that an elevation of surface of 350 feet produces a diminution of heat, equal to the addition of a degree of latitude. Hence we see the influence of our mountain systems upon the climate of the state.
In order to present more clearly the peculiar characteristics of the climate to the scholar, we shall divide the state into six dis- tricts, viz. 1st, Long Island; 2d, The valley of the Hudson; 3d, The valley of the Mohawk; 4th, The district north, and north east of the Mohawk, extending from Lake Ontario to Lake Champlain ; 5th, The district south and south west of the valley of the Mohawk, extending from the valley of the Hudson to the smaller Lakes; and 6th, The country west of the smaller Lakes.
The following table, prepared with great care, exhibits the mean, or average temperature ; the mean annual maximum, or highest degree `of heat; the mean annual minimum, or lowest degree of temperature; the average annual range of the Thermometer; and several other particulars, which show the length and for- wardness of the seasons, and the progress of vegetation. It contains the results of observations made at 50 different places, for a period of 15 years.
TABLE OF THE CLIMATE OF NEW YORK.
Facta observed.
Average Date.
No. of Locations of Observations.
No. of Observations.
Robins first seen, -
March 19,
266
Shadbush in bloom,
May 1,
168
*Peach in bloom,
May &
175
Currants in bloom,
May 4,
909
Plum in bloom,
May 6,'
Cherry in bloom,
May 7,
960
Apple in bloom,
May 15,
374
Lilac in bloom, -
May 15,
15L
Strawberries ripe, -
June 12,
210
Hay harvest commenced,
July 8,
34
127
Wheat harvest commenced,
July 25
5
186
First killing frost,
Sept. 23
57
471
First fall of snow,
Nov. 5,
686
Mean, or average temperature,
460 49'
59
577
Mean annual maximum of heat,
920 00'
69
650
Mean annual minimum, below zero,
120 00'
59
551
Mean ann. range of the thermometer, 104º 00'
550
We will now proceed to consider the climate of the several districta, into which we have divided the state, in their order.
1st District. Long Island.
The climate of this district is remarkable for the uniformity of its temperature. The greatest heat of summer is on an average 1}" less, and the greatest cold of winter from 10° to 18° less, than in other parts of the state.
The spring is somewhat backward, trees blooming a week later than in the in- terior of the state; yet strawberries ripen, and the wheat harvest commences cartier then the average of the state.
* This is the average for the southern and middle portion of the state only.
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STATE OF NEW YORK.
Frost occurs at a much later period in autumn, than in any other motion. At East Hampton, It is a full month, and at Jamaica and Flatbush, nearly . three weeks, later than the average of the state.
2d District. The Valley of the Hudson.
This valley is remarkable for the great annual range of the thermometer ; the heat of summer and the cold of winter being equally intense. The average tem- perature of Albany is nearly 2º higher than that of the state. The extreme cold of winter at Kinderhook, Lansingburgh, Cambridge, Salem and Granville, causes the mercury to mink 19º lower than in the southern towns of the wally. . The spring opens a week or ten days inter, at Albany, and above that city, than at the city of New York.
3d District. Valley of the Mohawk.
The average annual temperature of this valley is 1º less than that of the state. Northerly and easterly winds prevan in this section. The latter seems to be a diversion of the south, or south west wind, which prevails in the valley of the Hudson.
Utica, in this district, may be considered as a fair representative of the general climate of the state, as its temperature is about the average temperature of the whole state.
4th District. North and North East of the Valley of the Mohawk.
The climate of this region is characterized by a low average temperature, ex- treme cold in winter, great range of the thermometer, backward seasons, and early frosts.
Gouverneur, in St. Lawrence Co. reports a lower degree of temperature ta winter, and with one exception, a lower annual average of temperature, than any other town in the state, from which meteorological recorde have been received.
The average annual temperature of the whole district is more than 2º lower
- than that of the remainder of the state.
6th District. The Region South of the Mohawk, extending to the smaller Lakes.
The average annual temperature of this section is about 2º lower than that of the state, and the autumnal frosts occur from 4 to 13 days earlier. Vegetation is uniformly backward, yet the robin appears earlier than in other sections.
Pompey, in Onondaga county, is the coldest place reported, its annual tempera- ture being 3}" lower than that of the state ; yet the cold of winter is not to in- tense, nor do the autumnal frosts occur as early there, as in the state generally.
6th District. That portion of the State West of the small Lakes.
The climate of this section, like that of Long Island, is characterized by uni- formity. The mean temperature does not differ materially from that of the whole state, but the average annual range of the thermometer is only 96º, while that of the mate is 104º.
Vegetation in the spring is somewhat in advance of the mate generally, cor- responding with that of Albany.
The prevalent local wind of this region is from the southwest. In the autumn it is violent throughout the whole section, and frequently attended with rain; but on Lake Erie, probably owing to its meeting with other currents of wind, it fre- quently manifesta extraordinary fury in September and October, and occasionally produces disastrous shipwrecks.
The extreme heat of summer is very uniform throughout the state. Only 5 places, out of 55, show a difference of over 3º from the average of the state, which is 92º.
The average time throughout the whole state, from the blooming of the apple tree, to the fret killing frost in autumn, is 174 days. On the west end of Long Island it is 12} days more; and in St Lawrence county 98 days' lom. These are the extremes.
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NATURAL HISTORY OF NEW YORK.
I. GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY.
GEOLOGY may be defined as that science which treats of the struc- ture of the earth, and the substances which compose it.
An examination of the banks of rivers, the sides of precipices, &c., shows that there are two kinds, or classes of rocks; the one being de- posited in layers, or strata, of variable thickness, are called stratified rocks, and bear evidence of having been, at some remote period, de- posited as a sediment, from water ; the other irregular in shape, con- taining numerous crystals, and most of the metals in common use, and forming the basis of the lofty mountain chains, are termed unstratified rocks, and were undoubtedly brought into their present form by the action of fire, which then existed, and probably still exists, in the in- terior of the earth.
Granite is the principal constituent of the unstratified rocks, and probably formed the original crust of the earth. It still exists below all the other rocks. Owing, however, to violent convulsions of na- ture, (such as earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, &c.,) which have occurred since the layers above it were deposited, it has in many places been forced up through fissures in these layers, so as to ap- pear on the surface, or has raised them up, so as to form mountains or hills. If these were still covered with water, or became again sub- merged by a subsequent convulsion, new layers were again deposited, frequently at considerable angles with the first deposit.
The figure represents such an occurrence.
C
C
b
a, represents the unstratified rock upon which the layers b, b, had been deposited in a horizontal position ; but by a convulsion of na- ture, the whole mass had been upheaved, and the granite had forced 2
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STATE OF NEW YORK.
its way to the surface; being however still submerged, new layers c, c, were deposited, at an angle of nearly 45° with the first.
Hypersthene and primitive limestone also occur among the un- stratified rocks.
THE STRATIFIED Rocks are divided into six orders or systems, as they are called; viz.,-beginning at the lowest strata, or those next succeeding the unstratified rocks, we have,
J. THE PRIMARY, OR PRIMITIVE SYSTEM, consisting of disinte- grated granite, deposited by the waters; and probably again modified by the action of the subterranean heat.
The rocks, composing this system, are known as gneiss, mica schist, and hornblende. There is no evidence of the existence of either animal or vegetable life, during the period while this strata were de- positing. Nearly all the metals, used in the arts, are found in these rocks, and in the granite on which they rest.
II. THE TRANSITION SYSTEM. This system embraces a great variety of formations, and occupies a large portion of the crust of the earth. Its lower strata consist of limestones, sandstones, and shales or slaty rocks. Above these, is a layer of sandstone, known as the old red sandstone, which is succeeded by a limestone, forming the bed of the vast coal formations, which furnish so large an amount of fuel to the world. Over these is deposited a magnesian limestone, and another layer of red sandstone, distinguished as the new red sandstone.
The period, when these deposits were made, was characterized by extraordinary luxuriance of vegetable life. The coal deposits are all of vegetable origin, and were reduced to their present form, by the influence of heat, decay and pressure. In the rocks belonging to this system are also found, in immense quantities, the lower orders of animals, shell fish, snails, and a few fishes, and amphibious rep- tiles. None of them, however, belong to species now known to be in existence.
III. THE SECONDARY SYSTEM, composed of oolitic limestone, greensand, and chalk. This system contains a large number of fos- sils, both animal and vegetable. Among the former are those gigan- tic amphibions animals, mostly belonging to the lizard and crocodile tribes, whose skeletons, found both on this continent and in Europe, have excited so much attention. There are also many shells, fishes, insects, and a few quadrupeds. Several hundreds of species of plants have been found in the secondary rocks. These fossils, vegetable and animal, with scarcely an exception, belong to extinct species.
IV. THE TERTIARY SYSTEM. This consists of deposits of clay, sand and gravel, in some instances hardened into rock, but generally containing evidence of the comparative recentness of its deposition. It contains an immense number of fossils, both animal and vegetable; of these about 12 per cent. have been identified as belonging to ex- isting species, and the remainder generally bear a marked resem- blance to plants and animals now in existence, which the fossils of the earlier periods do not.
V. THE DILUVIAL DEPOSITS, called also the erratic block group. In thi system are included the boulders, scattered so abundantly over many sections of the earth's surface, and many of the more extensive deposits of sand, gravel and clay, which are evidently the result of
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GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY.
the resistless action of an overwhelming deluge. These deposits con- tain numerous animal and vegetable forms, the greater part of which belong to existing species, although occasionally extinct races are found.
VI. THE ALLUVIAL DEPOSITS, including the deltas, or earthy de- posits at the mouths of rivers, the beds of lakes which have be- come drained, the valleys of rivers subject to periodical inunda- tions, the shores of oceans, seas, &c.
These also contain, in untold quantities, relics of animal and vege- table existence, but, with very few exceptions belonging to races now known. The gigantic mastodon has been found in these deposits.
We have been thus particular in noticing the fossils belonging to each system, because they serve as way-marks, by the aid of which, even the most unlettered may read the progress of the earth's history, from the period, when it was first set in motion, a vast mass of molten granite, devoid of vegetable or animal life, to the present time, when its green fields, and its innumerable hosts of living and moving be- ings, attest with myriad voices, the power and wisdom of the great Creator.
The whole of these formations do not exist in every part of the world; but wherever geological explorations have been made, it has been found that the same order is observed; and, that, although some one, or more, of these systems are absent, those which are present follow the arrangement we have described.
In the state of New York the secondary formation is wanting." as well as the upper members of the transition system,* and in most parts of the state the tertiary system.
It will be seen, by the following table, that coal is not laid down among the formations of the state. All the formations of New York, except the alluvial and diluvial deposits, and the beds of tertiary, on the St. Lawrence, are below the coal measures; the Catskill group, which is the highest member of the transition system in New York, being the layer immediately beneath it.
It is true that there are layers of Anthracite, an inch or two in thick- ness, and extending over a few feet of surface, between the strata of rocks of an earlier era, in various parts of the state ; but coal does not exist in the state, in sufficient quantities to be of any practical value. This deficiency, however, is abundantly made up by the vast coal fields of Pennsylvania and Ohio, which, by means of the extended systems of internal improvement, are rendered so easily accessible.
The prevalence of limestone in nearly all the formations is worthy of notice, affording, as it does, the basis rock best adapted to yield the materials for fertilizing the soil.
The table exhibits the geological formations of the state, accord- ing to the arrangement adopted by the state geologists in their late survey.
III., IV. and V. ofthis arrangement are comprised under the general head of the Transition system, heretofore described.
* The existence of a small bed of colite in Saratoga county, and the somewhat doubtful era of the red sandstone of Rockland county, can scarcely be considered as exceptions to this statement.
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STATE OF NEW YORK.
TABULAR VIEW OF THE ROCKS OF NEW YORK, ARRANGED IN SYSTEMS, GROUPS AND FORMATIONS.
Systems.
Groups.
Formations.
II. Alluvial.
Alluvial.
II. Diluvial.
Diluvial, including boulders, kc. Clays and sands.
II. Old Red sand Old Red sandstone, Conglomerate,
stone system.
or Catskill group.
Old Red sandstone.
Brie Group,
Chemung sandstones and flagstones, Ludlowville shales.
Helderberg series,
Helderberg limestone, Schoharie grit, Brown argillaceous sandstone, Enerinal limestone, Oriskany sandstone, Green chaly limestone, (Pentamerus limestone.
IV. New York tran- sition system.
Ontario group,
Onondaga salt and gypecous rocks, . Limestone and green shales, Argillaceous tron ore, Medina sandstone, soft, green and va- riegated.
Grey sandstone and conglomerate, Lorraine shales and roofing slates, Utica siate,
Champlain group,
Trenton limestone, Birdseye limestone, Chazy limestone, Calciferous sandrock, Potsdam sandstone.
V. Taghkanic, or Ta- conic system.
Light green shales, sometimes dark and! plumbaginous.
Grey and clouded limestone, Brown sandstone.
VI. Gneim, or Primary system.
Gneiss, hornblende, and mica siate, Talcose state and steatite.
VII. Superincumbent rocks.'
Greenstone, trap and porphyry.
VIII. Unstratified rocks.
Granite, Hyperstbene rock. Primary limestone, serpentine, Magnetic iron ore.
There are in the state two tracts of primary and unstratified rocks. The first is nearly circular in form, and occupies the counties of Essex, Warren and Hamilton, and portions of Saratoga, Fulton, Herkimer, Oneida, Lewis, Jefferson, St. Lawrence, Franklin and Clinton. The Black river forms its southwestern boundary, from Wilna, in Jefferson, to Remsen, in Oneida county.
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