USA > New York > Geography of the state of New York. Embracing its physical features, climate, geology, mineralogy, botany, zoology, history, pursuits of the people, government, education, internal improvements &c. With statistical tables, and a separate description and map of each county > Part 34
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Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39 | Part 40 | Part 41
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TOWNS.
1. Olean, 1808.
2. Farmersville, 1812.
3. Franklinville, 1812.
4. Perrysburgh, 1814.
5. Great Valley, 1818.
6. Little Valley, 1818.
7. Ellicottville, 1820.
8. Yorkshire, 1820.
9. Freedom, 1820.
10. Hinsdale, 1820.
11. Connewango, 1823.
12. Otto, 1823.
13. Ashford, 1824.
14. Randolph, 1826.
15. Machias, 1827.
16. Napoli, 1828.
17. Lyndon, 1829.
18. New Albion, 1830.
19. Mansfield, 1830.
20. Burton, 1831.
21. Leon, 1832. .
22. Dayton, 1835.
23. Persia, 1835.
24. Cold Spring, 1837.
25. Humphrey, 1837.
26. Portville, 1838.
27. Carrollton, 1842.
28. Rice, 1846.
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CATTARAUGUS COUNTY.
Rivers. K. Allegany. s. Connewango Creek. b. Oil. c. Great Valley. e. Cold Spring. f. Cattaraugus. g. South Branch. n. Ischua.
Lakes. L. Lime. m. Ischua Creek Reservoir.
Villages. ELLICOTTVILLE. Olean. Hinsdale. Lodi.
BOUNDARIES. North by the counties of Erie and Wyoming ; East by Allegany county ; South by the state of Pennsylvania, and West by Chautauque county.
SURFACE. The surface of the county is elevated and much broken. The high grounds in its centre divide the waters of the Allegany from those of the Chautauque Creek. The valley of the Allegany river is from one to two miles in breadth, and has a depression of 700 or 800 feet below the general surface of the county. North of this river, the land rises for fifteen or twenty miles, and attains the summit of the very irregular ridge which commences at Perrysburgh, on the north-west, and ter- minates at Farmersville, on the east.
RIVERS. The Allegany river, Cattaraugus, Oil, Great Val- ley, Cold Spring, South Branch, Connewango and Ischua creeks, are the principal streams of the county.
LAKES Its lakes are Lime lake and Ischua creek reservoir. RAILROADS, The line of the New York and Erie railroad crosses the southern part of the county.
CLIMATE. From the elevation of the surface, the climate is cold but healthful.
GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY. This county is wholly within the Erie group. In the northern part, the Ludlowville slate is the surface rock, with occasional alternations of limestone. In the central and southern portions, the Chemung sandstone predom- inates. On the highest points in the county, the conglomerate of the Catskill group is occasionally found.
The Rock City, situated seven miles from Ellicottville, and near the line between Great and Little valley, is a remarkable natural curiosity.
The rock here is conglomerate, and by the removal and disin- tegration of portions of it, large masses from fifteen to thirty-five feet high, have been left standing isolated, and are separated by alleys and passages of various widths. The whole area covered by these blocks is over one hundred acres. The scene is in the highest degree imposing, and impresses upon the beholder the conviction that the name has not been improperly chosen.
The minerals are aet numerous; the most valuable are, peat, marl, bog iron ore and manganese. There are also some saline and sulphur springs ; petroleum or mineral oil, similar to the Seneca oil, found in Cuba, Allegany county, has been discovered at Freedom.
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STATE OF NEW YORK.
Son AND VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. The soil is well adapted to grazing. Grain thrives better in the northern section than in the southern.
Probably no region of equal extent in the United States has produced more valuable timber. The forest trees consist chiefly of pine, oak, hickory, ash, elm, linden, chestnut, walnut, beech, maple and hemlock. The maple is abundant, and affords large quantities of sugar.
PURSUITS. The people of this county are an agricultural community, paying more attention however, to the productions of the dairy, and the rearing of cattle, than to the raising of grain.
Manufactures. These are in their infancy, and chiefly con- fined to lumber, flour; fulled cloths, and leather. 1
The manufacture of lumber is prosecuted to a greater extent than in any other county in the state, 200 million feet being exported from the county annually.
Commerce. The Allegany is navigable for arks and small steamboats, at high water, to Olean; large quantities of lumber are exported from this county to Pittsburgh and Cincinnati, by this channel.
Its STAPLES are lumber, potatoes, oats, butter and cheese.
SCHOOLS. The county had, in 1846, 234 district schools, which were in session an average period of six months each. The number of children taught was 11,914; the amount paid for tuition $10,870, and the number of volumes in the district libra- ries, 16,087.
There were twelve select schools, with 264 scholars.
RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. Baptists, Methodists, Presbyte- rians, Episcopalians, Congregationalists, and Unitarians. The number of churches of all denominations, is thirty ; of clergymen, sixty-seven.
HISTORY. This county belonged originally to the Holland Land Company's purchase, and the titles of most of the inhabit- ants are derived from that Company. The first settlement in the county was made early. in the present century, at Olean, by Major Hoops, of Albany, who named it after General Hamilton, "Hamilton on the Allegany."
The next settlement was in the present town of Persia, in 1813. The growth of the county has been quite rapid. Corn- planter and Big Kettle or Ganoth-jowaneh, two of the most dis- tinguished of the Seneca chiefs, resided in this county ..
A tract along the Allegany river, extending through the towns of Cold Spring, Little Valley, Great Valley and Carroll- ton, is still held as a reservation by the Indians.
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CATTARAUGUS COUNTY.
The Society of Friends in Philadelphia, have taken great pains to instruct the Indians of this county, in the arts of civili- zation, sending instructors among them, and establishing settle- ments in the vicinity. Some of the Indians are now quite wealthy, owning well stocked farms, and large saw mills.
VILLAGES. ELLICOTTVILLE, the county seat, is situated in the town of the same name. It was incorporated in 1837, and con- tains besides the county buildings two extensive land offices. The scenery around the village is beautiful. The town receiv- ed its name from Joseph Ellicott, late principal agent of the Holland Land Company. Population, 800.
Lodi is a thriving manufacturing village on Cattaraugus creek, in the towns of Persia and Collins, in Cattaraugue and Erie counties. The water power is abundant, and only in part occupied. Population, 900.
At Hinsdale, is to be the junction of the New York and Erie railroad, and the Genesee Valley canal. The state is construct- ing a large basin here. An incorporated academy is located in this village.' Population, 600.
Qlean is advantageously situated on the north side of the Al- legany river, in the town of the same name. Large quantities of lumber and other produce are annually exported from this. place. It is to be the terminus of the Genesee Valley canal. Population, 500.
Franklinville, in the town of the same name, is a thriving village, and has some manufactories. Population, 600.
Cadiz, in the same town, is a village of some importance.
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XL. CHAUTAUQUE COUNTY.
Square Miles, 1017. -
Organized, 1808.
Population, 46,548. Valuation, 1845, $4,586,982.
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TOWNS.
1. Chautauque, 1804.
2. Pomfret, 1808.
3. Ellicott, 1812.
4. Gerry, 1812.
5. Hanover, 1812.
6. Portland, 1813.
7. Harmony, 1816.
8. Ripley, 1817.
9. Clymer, 1821.
10. Ellery, 1821.
11. Stockton, 1821.
12. Busti, 1823.
13. Villenova, 1823.
14. Mina, 1824.
15. Ellington, 1825.
16. Carroll, 1825.
17. Sheridan, 1827.
18. French Creek, 1829.
19. Charlotte, 1829. 20. Westfield, 1829.
21. Cherry Creek, 1829. .
22. Arkwright, 1829,
23. Poland, 1832.
24. Sherman, 1832.
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CHAUTAUQUE COUNTY.
Rivers. a. Twenty Mile Creek. b. Chautauque. c. Canadawa. d. Walnut. e. Silver. f. Cattaraugus. g. Chautauque Outlet. h. Casadaga Creek. j. French. k.Connewango.
Lakes. L. Erie. o. Chautauque. p. Casadaga. q. Bear. t. Finley. Villages. MAYVILLE. Jamestown. Westfield. Dunkirk. Fre- donia. Fayette. Van Buren.
BOUNDARIES. North by Lake Erie and Erie county ; East by Cattaraugus county ; South and West by Pennsylvania.
SURFACE. The surface is hilly and elevated. Through its central portion, at a distance of from three to six miles from Lake Erie, and nearly parallel with it, runs the dividing ridge which separates the waters of the lakes from those discharging into the Gulf of Mexico. This ridge is elevated from 800 to 1400 feet above tide water. From this altitude it declines to the northwest, toward the lake, and on the southeast toward the Connewango creek and the Allegany river. The land lying on Lake Erie is a rich and fertile alluvium. The hills throughout the county are nowhere precipitous, but capable of cultivation to their summits.
RIVERS AND CREEKS. The principal streams are the Conne- wango creek, which drains the eastern and southeastern por -.. tions of the county, and uniting with the waters of the Chau- tauque outlet, in Poland, forms the Connewango river ; Catta- raugus creek, which separates this county from Erie; Silver, Walnut, Canadawa, Chautauque, Twenty Mile, North and South branches of. French creek, Great and Little Broken Straw and Casadaga creeks. Most of these streams furnish valuable mill privileges.
LAKES. Lake Erie forms the northwestern boundary of the county. Chautauque lake, which gives its name to the county, was so called by the Indians from its form; the Indian name Chautauqua signifying a pack tied in the middle.
It is a beautiful sheet of water, eighteen miles long, and from one to five in width. It is 726 feet above Lake Erie, and 1291 above tide water. Its waters are remarkable for their clear- ness and purity, and are abundantly stocked with fish. Two steamers ply upon it. It is probably the highest body of water in the world, navigated by steam.
The Casadaga lakes, three in number, each about a mile in extent ; Bear lake, and Finley's lake, are the only other lakes in the county.
RAILROADS. The New York and Erie Railroad will pass through this county, and terminate at Dunkirk. Several other railroads have been chartered, but have not been constructed.
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CLIMATE. The county has a high reputation for the salu- brity of its climate. Fruits thrive well here, and attain great perfection both of size and flavor. From the elevation of its surface, the winters are long, but the cold is somewhat mode- rated by the proximity of the lake.
GEOLOGY AND MINERALS. This county belongs entirely to the Chemung sandstone group. The rocks of the county consist of alternate layers of sandstone and slaty rocks. In Harmony, Carroll, and some other sections, this sandstone furnishes a fine building material. The crest of the dividing ridge is occasion- ally crowned with the conglomerate of the Catskill group.
Bog iron ore has been found in several localities, but in no great quantity. Shell mari is abundant in the vicinity of the Casadaga lakes. Alum and copperas are spontaneously formed in the town of Sheridan.
Mineral Springs. Sulphur springs are quite numerous in the neighborhood of Lake Erie. One in Mina is considerably visited. The inflammable springs, or those containing carburetted hydrogen gas, are worthy of notice. There are a number of these along the shores of Lake Erie. The village of Fredonia, in the town of Pomfret, is lighted by this natural gas. It also furnishes material for the light house at Barcelona, and might be employed in the same way at numerous other points along the shores of the lake. It is entirely free from any unpleasant odor.
SOIL AND VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. The soil is generally very good. The section on the shores of Lake Erie, extending back for a distance of three or four miles, is a rich alluvium, highly fertile, and well adapted to grains and fruit. The up- lands are better fitted for grass, and yield abundant crops. .
The timber of the county is oak, maple, beech, black walnut, butternut, hickory, with some pine and hemlock.
On Walnut creek, about a mile from its mouth, formerly stood a black walnut tree, 150 feet in height, thirty-six feet in circumference at its base, and tapering regularly eighty feet, to the first limb. This enormous tree was blown down in 1822. It was supposed to be more than 500 years old. The butt, nine feet in length was excavated, and used for a grocery, at Buffalo. When the Erie canal was opened, it was transported to New York and exhibited to thousands.
PURSUITS. Agriculture is the pursuit of a majority of the inhabitants. More attention is paid to the rearing of stock and the produce of the dairy, than to the culture of grain. The principal grains cultivated are corn, oats, wheat, and some barley and buckwheat. Large quantities of flax and potatoes, are also raised. In the latter crop it occupied a high rank among the counties of the state.
Munufactures. The county is not very largely engaged in manufactures. Flour, lumber, leather and iron, are the princi- pal articles, and their entire value is between $700,000 and $800,000.
Commerce. The county has some commerce. Van Buren, Dunkirk, Barcelona and Portland are its principal harbora.
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CHAUTAUQUE COUNTY. 337
STAPLE PRODUCTIONS. . Butter, cheese, wool, pork, potatoes, flax, corn and oats.
SCHOOLS. There are in the county 308 public schools. In 1846, schools were taught an average period of seven months -- 18,376 children received instruction, at a cost of $17,581. The district libraries contained 30,010 volumes.
There are in the county thirty-one unincorporated schools, with 562 pupils; and five academies, attended by 326 students.
RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONE. Baptists, Methodists, Congrega- tionalists, Presbyterians, Unitarians, Episcopalians, Universal- ists and Friends. There are seventy-three churches, and 106 clergymen, of all denominations.
HISTORY. Tradition relates that the French early established a post at Portland, in this county ; but at what time is not cer- tainly known. The only Indian settlement within the limits of the county, when first explored, was in the present town of Carroll, on the Connewango creek.
In 1782, a party, consisting of about 800 British and Indians, with a train of artillery and other munitions of war, spent the months of June and July around Chautauque lake, constructing canoes, and making other preparations to descend the Allegany river and attack Fort Pitt, now Pittsburgh. For this purpose they obstrueted the channel of the Chautauque outlet, in order to raise the waters of the lake.
The first purchase of lands made in this county, for the pur- pose of settlement, was in 1801, in the town of Ripley, by Gen. John McMahan. No settlement was effected, however, till 1802, when Col. James McMahan, brother of the general, loca- ted himself in the town of Westfield. The same year Edward McHenry settled in the same neighborhood. .
In 1796 one Amos Sottle had located in Hanover, but re- moved in 1800 from the county, and did not return for several years. John McHenry, born in 1802, was the first child of white parents born in the county.
The privations of the early settlers were very great. Often they were compelled to subsist upon the precarious products of the chase, for months, without tasting bread or other provisions.
In 1804, the first town was constituted, and embraced the whole of the present county. In 1808 the county was provis- ionally organized ; but not having a sufficient number of inhabit- ants to entitle it to a separate organization, it remained attached to Genesee county till 1811.
The whole of this county was included in the Holland Land Company's purchase, and from that company and its successors, the titles to the property were derived. .
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During the war of 1812, the lake coast was several times in- vaded by small parties of the enemy, who, however, never ac- complished any feats of valor in the county. A party of British landed at Dunkirk, in 1813, to deposite some property which they had plundered from the coast above. Twelve of the boat's crew deserted, immediately on landing, leaving only the officer who commanded the boat, and a single sailor, whom the militia soon compelled to return to their vessel.
In 1814, an armed schooner pursued some lake boats into Canadawa creek, and attempted to capture them, but was re- pulsed by the militia. About 200 of the Chautauque militia were called out by Governor Tompkins, for the defence of Buf- falo ; undisciplined and unaccustomed to withstand regular troops, they fled early in the action, but were pursued, and a number killed and scalped by the Indians. Ten or twelve of the citizens of the county fell in this retreat, and others were se- verely wounded. After the close of the war, the growth of the county was extraordinarily rapid.
In 1835 the Holland Land Company sold out the lands, to- gether with the outstanding and expired contracts, to Trum- bull, Carey and others of Batavia. They had made a like sale of their lands in Genesee county, and the new company had compelled such of the settlers as were unable te complete the payments on their farms, to pay an additional sum per acre, as the price of forbearance. This exaction was known as the Genesee tariff. It soon became generally understood, that the principles of this tariff were to be applied to Chautauque county. Meetings were held by the citizens who felt themselves ag- grieved, and definite information demanded from the company, as to their intentions.
After some delay the company announced their determination to exact the principal and compound interest from all who would immediately pay for their lands, and to require 25 per cent. advance from those who asked for an extension of time in payment.
These exactions, at this period, would have deprived many of the settlers of their farms, and reduced them to ruin.
Upon learning the demands of the company, resolutions were passed by the citizens, denouncing their course and declaring their determination not to submit to it. On the sixth of Febru- ary, 1836, a mass of people, mostly from the interior towns, assembled at Barnhart's inn, about two miles from Mayville, about four o'clock in the afternoon, armed with axes, crow- bars, &c .; and having organized, proceeded to Mayville, about eight o'clock in the evening. They attacked the office of the Land Company, demolished the wood building, and finally
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CHAUTAUQUE COUNTY.
forced open the stone vault, containing the company's books and papers, carried them to Barnhart's, and burned them in the highway.
From this time, till 1838, all intercourse between the Land Company and the settlers ceased. In that year a sale was ef- fected of the property, to Messrs. Duer, Morrison and Seward, (late governor of the state, ) and by them an office was opened in Westfield, and the outstanding claims adjusted to the satis- faction of all parties.
VILLAGES. MAYVILLE, the county seat, is a flourishing village, in the town of Chautauque. It was incorporated in 1830. It is beautifully situated, commanding a fine view of the lake. Its public buildings are neat and substantial.
The Mayville academy was incorporated in 1834, and is a well conducted institution. A steamboat plies between this vil- lage and Jamestown, daily, during the summer. Population 500.
Jamestown, situated on the outlet of Chautauque lake, in the town of Ellicott, is the largest village in the county. It has a fine hydraulic power, which is extensively used in manufac- turing. Lumber, wooden ware, sash, lath, flour, cloth, &c., are manufactured here. The Jamestown academy was incor- ported in 1836, and is in a prosperous condition. This village was incorporated in 1827. Population 1700. .
Fredonia is a beautiful village, in the town of Pomfret, four miles from Lake Erie. It has some trade, but is chiefly remark- able for its inflammable spring, which furnishes a sufficient quantity of gas to light the village brilliantly. It was incorpo- rated in 1829. The academy here, established in 1824, was the first in the county, and sustains a high reputation. Popula- tion 1000.
Westfield, in the town of the same name, incorporated in 1833, is situated on Chautauque creek, one and a half miles from Lake Erie. It is a thriving, busy village, and has a fine academy, incorporated in 1837. Population 1000.
Dunkirk, on Lake Erie, in the town of Pomfret, has been designated as the western terminus of the New York and Erie railroad. It is a village of some business. The United States government have expended about $80,000 in the im- provement of its harbor, which is now commodious for vessels drawing eight or nine feet water. It is open usually somewhat earlier than that of Buffalo: Population 1000.
Fayette, at the mouth of Silver creek, in the town of Hano- ver, has a good steamboat landing, and some trade. Pop. 700. Portland has a good harbor. Barcelona has a light house, illuminated with the gas evolved from an inflammable spring near it.
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XLL. CORTLAND COUNTY.
Square Miles, 500. Organized, 1808. 1
Population, 25,087.
Valuation, 1845, $2,318,208.
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1. Homer, 1794.
8. Freetown, 1818.
2. Solon, 1798.
9. Marathon, 1818.
3. Virgil, 1804.
4. Cincinnatus, 1804.
11. Cortlandville, 1829.
5. Preble, 1808.
12. Hartford, 1845.
6. Truxton, 1808.
13. Lapeer, 1845.
7. Scott, 1815.
Rivers. Q. Tioughnioga. a. Cold Creek. h. Otselie. Villages. CORTLAND. Homer.
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BOUNDARIES. North by Onondaga county ; East by Madison and Chenango; South by Broome and Tioga; and West by Tompkins and Cayuga counties.
THE SURFACE is elevated, and gently sloping to the south,
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CORTLAND COUNTY.
forming a part of the high central section of the state. Its northern boundary lies on the watershed, or dividing ridge be- tween the waters flowing into Lake Ontario, and the tributa- ries of the Susquehanna river. The broad valleys of the streams, and the rounded and fertile hills, give the surface an agreeably diversified aspect.
RIVERS. The Tioughnioga, rising near its northern boundary, with its tributaries, waters nearly the whole county. The Ot- selie, its main branch, drains the southeastern section. Both streams are navigable for small boats, when swollen by the heavy rains of spring and autumn.
CLIMATE. Healthy and equable. From the elevation of its surface, the winters are long and much snow falls.
GEOLOGY AND MINERALS. Slate is the basis rock of the county. On the north this is covered with Onondaga limestone, or the limestone and slate of the Helderberg series. On the south and east the Chemung sandstone and shale are the surface rocks.
The minerals of the county are salt, bog iron ore, and marl. There are also some sulphuretted hydrogen springs.
SOIL AND VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. The soil is generally a gravelly loam, intermingled with the disintegrated lime and slate, and is quite fertile, yielding good crops of grass and grain. The timber is chiefly oak, maple, beech, basswood, butternut, elm, and chestnut. Groves of pine and hemlock are found in the southern part of the county.
PURSUITS. Agriculture is the principal pursuit of the inhab- itants. Much attention is paid to the rearing of cattle; consid- erable quantities of grain are also raised. The products of the dairy are large.
Manufactures are increasing in importance in the county. The principal articles are flour, lumber, cotton and woollen goods, leather and potash.
STAPLE PRODUCTIONS. Butter, cheese, wool, oats, corn, and flax. Considerable quantities of wheat, barley, buckwheat, po- tatoes, and pork are also produced.
SCHOOLS. The whole number of district schools in the county is 180. In 1846, these were taught, on an average, seven months, and 9,273 children received instruction during the year at an expense of $9470. The district school libraries contained 15,197 volumes.
There are in the county twenty-eight private schools, with 443 pupils, and two academies with 233 scholars ..
RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. Baptists, Methodists, Presbyte- rians, Congregationalists, and Episcopalians. There are in the .
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county forty-five churches, and fifty-four clergymen of all de- nominations.
HISTORY. Cortland county comprises a portion of the Military Tract, or lands given by the state of New York to her Revolu- tionary soldiers. It was principally settled by emigrants from the eastern states, who removed here after the Revolution. Homer, the oldest town, was organized in 1794.
The county received its name from General Peter Van Cort- landt, who was a lage landholder here. It was taken from Onondaga in 1808.
VILLAGES. CORTLAND, in the town of Cortlandville, is the largest village, and the seat of justice for the county. It is pleasantly situated on the north branch of the Tioughnioga, and has a number of fine public buildings. The Cortland female seminary is a flourishing institution.
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