USA > New York > Albany County > Albany > The annals of Albany, Vol. I > Part 32
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Potatoes are generally planted. Some people preferred ashes to sand for keeping them in during winter. The Bermuda potatoes ( Convol- vulus batatas) have likewise been planted here, and succeed pretty well. The greatest difficulty is to keep them during winter ; for they generally rot in that season.
The humming bird (Trochilus colubris) comes to this place some. times, but is rather a scarce bird.
The shingles with which the houses are covered are made of the white pine, which is reckoned as good and as durable, and sometimes better, than the white cedar ( Cupressus thyoides). The white pine is found abundant here, in such places where common pines grow in Europe. I have never seen them in the lower parts of the province of New York, nor in New-Jersey and Pennsylvania. They saw a vast quantity of deal from the white pine on this side of Albany, which are brought down to New York, and from thence exported.
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The woods abound with vines, which likewise grow on the steep banks of the river in surprising quantities. They climbed to the tops of trees on the bank, and bent them by their weight ; but where they found no trees, they hung down along the steep shores, and covered them entirely. The grapes are eaten after the frost has attacked them; for they are too sour before : they are not much used any other way.
The vast woods and uninhabited grounds between Albany and Canada contain immense swarms of gnats, which annoy the travelers. To be in some measure secured against these insects, some besmear their face with butter or grease ; for the gnats do not like to settle on greasy places. The great heat makes boots very uneasy; but to prevent the gnats from stinging the legs, they wrap some paper round them, under the stockings. Some travelers wear caps which cover the whole face, and have some ganze before the eyes. At night they lie in tents, if they can carry any with them ; and make a great fire at the entrance, by the smoke of which the gnats are driven away.
The porpesses seldom go higher up the river Hudson, than the salt water goes; after that, the sturgeons fill their place. It has, however, sometimes happened that porpesses have gone quite up to Albany. There is a report that a whale once came up the river quite to this town.
The fireflies (Lampyris) which are the same that are so common in Pennsylvania during summer, are seen here in abundance every night. They fly up and down in the streets of this town. They come into the houses, if the doors and windows are open.
Several of the Pennsylvanian trees are not to be met with in these woods, viz. Magnolia glauca, the Beaver-tree; Nyssa aquatica, the Tupelo-tree; Liquidambar styraciflua. the Sweet-gum tree ; Diospyros virginiana, the Persimon ; Liriodendron tulipifera, the Tulip- tree ; Ju- glans nigra, the Black Walnut-tree; Quercus -, the Swamp Oak ; Cercis canadensis, the Salad-tree; Robinia pseudacacia, the Locust- tree ; Gleditsia triacanthos, the Honey-locust tree ; Annona muricata, the Papaw.tree; Celtis occidentalis, the Nettle tree ; and a number of shrubs, which are never found here. The more northerly situation of the place, the height of the Blue mountains, and the course of the rivers, which flow here southward into the sea. and accordingly carry the seeds of plants from north to south, and not the contrary way, are chiefly the causes that several plants which grow in Pennsylvania can not be found here.
This afternoon I went to see an island which lies in the middle of the river, about a mile below the town. This island is an English mile long, and not above a quarter of a mile broad. It is almost entirely turned into corn fields ; and is inhabited by a single planter, who, be- sides possessing this island, is the owner of two more. Here we saw no woods, except a few trees which were left round the island on the shore, and formed as it were a tall and great hedge. The Red Maple (Acer rubrum) grows in abun lance in several places. Its leaves are white or silvery on the under sides, and, when agitated by the wind, they make the tree appear as if it was full of white flowers. The Water- beech (Platanus occidentalis) grows to a great height, and is one of the most shady trees here. The Water-poplar is the most common tree hereabouts, grows exceedingly well on the shores of the river, and is as tall as the tallest of our asps. In summer, it affords the best shade
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for men and cattle against the scorching heat. On the banks of rivers and lakes it is one of the most useful trees, because it holds the soil by its extensive branched roots, and prevents the water from washing it away. The Water beech and the Elm- tree (Ulmus) serve the same purpose. The wild Prune- trees were plentiful here, and were full of unripe fruit : its wood is not made use of, but its fruit is eaten. Sumach (Rhus glabra) is plentiful here ; as also the wild vines, which climb up the trees and creep along the high shores of the river. I was told that the grapes ripen very late, though they were already pretty large. The American Elm tree (Ulmus americana) formed several high hedges. The soil of this island is a rich mould mixed with sand, which is chiefly employed in maize plantations. There were likewise large fields of potatoes. The whole island was leased for one hundred pounds of New- York currency. The person who had taken the lease, again let some greater and some smaller lots of ground to the inhabitants of Albany, for making kitchen-gardens of ; and by that means reimbursed himself. Portulack ( Portulaca oleracea) grows spontaneously here in great abundance, and looks very well.
JUNE the 20th. The tide in the river Hudson goes about eight or ten English miles above Albany, and consequently runs one hundred and fifty six English miles from the sea. In spring, when the snow melts, there is hardly any flowing near this town; for the great quantity of water which comes from the mountains during that season, occasions a continual ebbing. This likewise happens after heavy rains.
The cold is generally reckoned very severe here. The ice in the river Hudson is commonly three or four feet thick. On the 3d of April, some of the inhabitants crossed the river with six pair of horses. The ice commonly dissolves about the end of March, or beginning of April. Great pieces of ice come down about that time, which sometimes carry with them the houses that stand close to the shore. The water is very high at that time in the river because the ice stops sometimes, and sticks in places where the river is narrow. The water has been often observed to rise three fathom higher than it commonly is in summer. The ground is frozen here in winter to the depth of three, four, or five feet. On the 16th of November the yachts are put up, and about the beginning or middle of April they are in motion again. They are unacquainted with stoves ; and their chimneys are so wide that one could drive through them with a cart and horses.
The water of several wells in this town was very cool about this time, but had a kind of acid taste, which was not very agreeable. On a nearer examination, I found an abundance of little insects in it, which were probably Monoculi. Their length was different : some were a geome- trical line and an half ; others two, and others four lines long. They were very narrow, and of a pale color. The head was blacker and thicker than the other parts of the body, and about the size of a pin's head. The tail was divided into two branches, and each branch ter. minated in a little black globule. When these insects swim, they pro- cerd in crooked or undulated lines, almost like tadpoles. I poured some of this water into a bowl, and put near a fourth part of rum to it : the monocnli, instead of being affected with it. swam about as briskly as they had done in the water. This shows, that if one makes punch with this water, it must be very strong to kill the monoculi. I think this
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water is not very wholesome for people who are not used to it, though the inhabitants of Albany who drink it every day, say they do not feel the least inconvenience from it. I have been several times obliged to drink water here, in which I have plainly seen monoculi swimming; but I generally felt the next day somewhat like a pea in my throat, or as if I had a swelling there, and this continued for above a week. I felt such swellings this year, both at Albany and in other parts. My ser- vant, Yungstroem, likewise got a great pain in his breast, and a sensation as from a swelling, after drinking water with monoculi in it; but whe. ther these insects occasioned it, or whether it came from some other cause, I can not ascertain. However, I have always endeavored, as much as possible, to do without such water as had monoculi in it. I have found monoculi in very cold water, taken from the deepest wells, in different parts of this country. Perhaps many of our diseases arise from waters of this kind, which we do not sufficiently examine. I have frequently observed abundance of minute insects in water, which has been remarkable for its clearness. Almost each house in Albany has its well, the water of which is applied to common use ; but for tea, brewing and washing, they commonly take the water of the river Hudson, which flows close by the town. This water is generally quite muddy, and very warm in summer; and, on that account, it is kept in cellars, in order that the slime may subside, and that the water may cool a little.
We lodged with a gunsmith, who told us that the best charcoals for the forge were made of the Black Pine. The next in goodness, in his opinion, were charcoals made of the Beech- tree. The best and dearest stocks for his muskets were made of the wood of the Wild Cherry-tree ; and next to these, he valued those of the Red Maple most. They scarce make use of any other wood for this purpose. The Black Walnut- tree affords excellent wood for stocks ; but it does not grow in the neighbor- hood of Albany.
JUNE the 21st. Next to the town of New-York, Albany is the principal town, or at least the most wealthy, in the province of New- York. It is situated on the declivity of a hill, close to the western shore of the river Hudson, about one hundred and forty- six English miles from New- York. The town extends along the river, which flows here from N.N.E. to S.S.W. The high mountains in the west, above the town, bound the prospect on that side. There are two churches in Albany, an English one and a Dutch one. The Dutch church stands at some distance from the river, on the east side of the market. It is built of stone ; and in the middle it has a small steeple, with a bell. It has but one minister, who preaches twice every Sunday. The English church is situated on the hill, at the west end of the market, directly under the fort. It is likewise built of stone, but has no steeple. There was no service at this church at this time, because they had no minister ; and all the people understood Dutch, the garrison excepted. The minister of this church has a settled income of one hundred pounds sterling, which he gets from England. The town-hall lies to the southward of the Dutch church, close by the river side. It is a fine building of stone, three stories high. It has a small tower or steeple with a bell, and a gilt ball and vane at the top of it.
The houses in this town are very neat, and partly built with stones
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covered with shingles of the White Pine. Some are slated with tiles from Holland, because the clay of this neighborhood is not reckoned fit for tiles. Most of the houses are built in the old way, with the gable- end towards the street ; a few excepted, which were lately built in the manner now used. A great number of houses were built like those of New-Brunswick, which I have described *; the gable-end being built, towards the street, of bricks, and all the other walls of planks. The outside of the houses is never covered with lime or mortar, nor have I seen it practised in any North-American towns which I have visited ; and the walls do not seem to be damaged by the air. The gutters on the roofs reach almost to the middle of the street. This preserves the walls from being damaged by the rain ; but is extremely disagreeable in rainy weather for the people in the streets, there being hardly any means of avoiding the water from the gutters. The street doors are generally in the middle of the houses; and on both sides are seats, on which, during fair weather, the people spend almost the whole day, especially on those which are in the shadow of the houses. In the evening these seats are covered with people of both sexes; but this is rather trouble- some, as those who pass by are obliged to greet every body, unless they will shock the politeness of the inhabitants of this town. The streets are broad, and some of them are paved ; in some parts they are lined with trees : the long streets are almost parallel to the river, and the others intersect them at right angles. The street which goes between the two churches, is five times broader than the others, and serves as a market place. The streets upon the whole are very dirty, because the people leave their cattle in them during the summer nights. There are two market-places in the town, to which the country people resort twice a week.
The fort lies higher than any other building, on a high steep hill on the west side of the town. It is a great building of stone, surrounded with high and thick walls. Its situation is very bad, as it can only serve to keep off plundering parties, without being able to sustain a siege. There are numerous high hills to the west of the fort, which command it, and from whence one may see all that is done within it. There is commonly an officer and a number of soldiers quartered in it. They say the fort contains a spring of water.
The situation of Albany is very advantageous in regard to trade. The river Hudson, which flows close by it, is from twelve to twenty feet deep. There is not yet any quay made for the better lading of the yachts, because the people feared it would suffer greatly, or be entirely carried away in spring by the ice, which then comes down the river. The vessels which are in use here, may come pretty near the shore in order to be laden, and heavy goods are brought to them upon canoes tied together. Albany carries on a considerable commerce with New- York, chiefly in furs, boards, wheat, flour, pease, several kinds of timber, &c. There is not a place in all the British colonies, the Hudson's Bay settle- ments excepted, where such quantities of furs and skins are bought of the Indians, as at Albany. Most of the merchants in this town send a
* One of the streets is almost entirely inhabited by Dutehmen from Albany, and for that reason they call it Albany street. These Duteh people only keep company among themselves, and seldom or never go amongst the other inhabitants, living as it were quite separate from them .- Vol. 1. p. 228.
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clerk or agent to Oswego, an English trading town upon the lake Ontario, to which the Indians resort with their furs. I intend to give a more minute account of this place in my journal for the year 1750. The merchants from Albany spend the whole summer at Oswego, and trade with many tribes of Indians who come to them with their goods. Many people have assured me that the Indians are frequently cheated in dis- posing of their goods, especially when they are in liquor ; and that sometimes they do not get one half, or even one tenth of the value of their goods. I have been a witness to several transactions of this kind. The merchants of Albany glory in these tricks, and are highly pleased when they have given a poor Indian a greater portion of brandy than he can bear, and when they can after that get all his goods for mere trifles. The Indians often find, when they are sober again, that they have been cheated : they grumble somewhat, but are soon satisfied when they re- flect that they have for once drank as much as they are able, of a liquor which they value beyond any thing else in the whole world ; and they are quite insensible to their loss, if they again get a draught of this nectar. Besides this trade at Oswego, a number of Indians come to Albany from several parts, especially from Canada ; but from this latter place, they hardly bring any thing but beaver-skins. There is a great penalty in Canada for carrying f'urs to the English, that trade belonging to the French West India Company; notwithstanding which the French merchants in Canada carry on a considerable smuggling trade. They send their furs, by means of the Indians, to their correspondents at Al- bany, who purchase it at the price which they have fixed upon with the French merchants. The Indians take in return several kinds of cloth, and other goods, which may be got here at a lower rate than those which are sent to Canada from France.
The greater part of the merchants at Albany have extensive estates in the country, and a great deal of wood. If their estates have a little brook, they do not fail to erect a saw-mill upon it for sawing boards and planks, with which commodity many yachts go during the whole summer to New-York, having scarce any other lading than boards.
Many people at Albany make the wampum of the Indians, which is their ornament and their money, by grinding some kinds of shells and muscles : this is a considerable profit to the inhabitants. I shall speak of this kind of mon y in the sequel. The extensive trade which the inhabitants of Albany carry on, and their sparing manner of life, in the Dutch way, contribute to the considerable wealth which many of them acquire.
The inhabitants of Albany and its environs are almost all Dutchmen. They speak Dutch, have Dutch preachers. and divine service is per- formed in that language : their manners are likewise Dutch ; their dress is, however, like that of the English. It is well known that the first Europeans who settled in the province of New-York were Dutchmen. During the time that they were the masters of this province, they pos- sessed themselves of New-Sweden*, of which they were jealous. How- ever, the pleasure of possessing this conquered land and their own was but of short duration ; for towards the end of 1664, Sir Robert Carre, by order of King Charles the second, went to New- York, then New Am- sterdam, and took it. Soon after Col. Nichols went to Albany, which
* New-Jersey and a part of Pennsylvania were formerly comprised under this name.
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then bore the name of Fort Orange, and upon taking it. named it Albany, from the Duke of York's Scotch title. The Dutch inhabitants were allowed either to continue where they were, and, under the protection of the English, to enjoy all their former privileges ; or to leave the country. The greater part of them chose to stay, and from them the Dutchmen are descended, who now live in the province of New- York, and who possess the greatest and best estates in that province.
The avarice and selfishness of the inhabitants of Albany are very well known throughout all North America, by the English, by the French, and even by the Dutch in the lower part of New- York province. If a Jew, who understands the art of getting forward perfectly well. should settle amongst them, they would not fail to ruin him. For this reason nobody comes to this place without the most pressing necessity ; and therefore I was asked, in several places, what induced me to go to it two years one after another. I likewise found that the judgment, which people formed of them, was not without foundation. For though they seldom see any strangers (except those who go from the British colonies to Canada and back again), and one might therefore expect to find vic- tuals and accommodation for travelers cheaper than in places where travelers always resort to ; yet I experienced the contrary. I was here obliged to pay for every thing twice, thrice, and four times as dear as in any part of North America which I have passed through. If I wanted their assistance, I was obliged to pay them very well for it; and when I wanted to purchase any thing, or to be helped in some case or other, I could presently see what kind of blood ran in their veins; for they either fixed exorbitant prices for their services. or were very backward to assist me. Such was this people in general. However, there were some amongst them who eqnaled any in North America, or any where else, in politeness, equity, goodness, and readiness to serve and to oblige; but their number fell far short of that of the former. If I may be allowed to declare my conjectures, the origin of the inhabitants of Albany and its neighborhood seems to me to be as follows : Whilst the Dutch possessed this country, and intended to people it, the government took up a pack of vagabonds, of which they intended to clear the country, and sent them along with a number of other settlers to this province. The va. gabonds were sent far from the other colonists, upon the borders towards the Indians and other enemies ; and a few honest families were per- suaded to go with them, in order to keep them in bounds. I can not any other way account for the difference between the inhabitants of Albany, and the other descendants of so respectable a nation as the Dutch, who are settled in the lower part of New-York province. The latter are civil, obliging, just in the prices, and sincere ; and though they are not ceremonious, yet they are well meaning and honest, and their promises are to be relied on.
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The behavior of the inhabitants of Albany, during the war between England and France, which was ended with the peace of Aix la Cha- pelle, has, among several other causes, contributed to make them the object of hatred in all the British colonies, but more especially in New. England. For at the beginning of that war, when the Indians of both parties had received orders to commence hostilities, the French engaged theirs to attack the inhabitants of New-England ; which they faithfully executed, killing every body they met with, and carrying off whatever
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they found. During this time the people of Albany remained neutral, and carried on a great trade with the very Indians who murdered the inhabitants of New-England. The plate, such as silver spoons, bowls, cups, &c., of which the Indians robbed the houses in New England, was carried to Albany for sale. The people of that town bought up these silver vessels, though the names of the owners were graved on many of them ; and encouraged the Indians to get more of them, promising to pay them well, and whatever they would demand. This was afterwards interpreted by the inhabitants of New-England, as if the Albanians encouraged the Indians to kill more of the people, who were in a manner their brothers, and who were subjects of the same crown. Upon the first news of this behavior, which the Indians themselves spread in New- England, the inhabitants of the latter province were greatly incensed, and threatened that the first step they would take in another war would be to burn Albany and the adjacent parts. In the present war it will sufficiently appear how back ward the other British provinces in America are in assisting Albany, and the neighboring places, in case of an attack from the French or Indians. The hatred which the English bear against the people at Albany is very great, but that of the Albanians against the English is carried to a ten times higher degree. This hatred has subsisted ever since the time when the English conquered this country, and is not yet extinguished, though they could never have got such ad- vantages under the Dutch government as they have obtained under that of the English : for, in a manner, their privileges are greater than those of Englishmen.
The inhabitants of Albany are much more sparing than the English. The meat which is served up is often insufficient to satisfy the stomach, and the bowl does not circulate so freely as amongst the English. The women are perfectly well acquainted with economy : they rise early, go to sleep very late, and are almost over nice and cleanly in regard to the floor, which is frequently scoured several times in the week. The ser- vants in the town are chiefly negroes. Some of the inhabitants wear their own hair, but it is very short, without a bag or queue, which are looked upon as the characteristics of Frenchmen ; and as I wore my hair in a bag the first day I came here from Canada, I was surrounded with children, who called me Frenchman and some of the boldest of. fered to pull at my French dress.
Their meat, and manner of dressing it, is very different from that of the English. Their breakfast is tea, commonly without milk. About thirty or forty years ago, tea was unknown to them, and they break- fasted either upon bread and butter or bread and milk. They never put sugar into the cup, but take a small bit of it into their mouths whilst they drink. Along with the tea they eat bread and butter, with slices of hung beef. Coffee is not usual here : they breakfast generally about seven. Their dinner is buttermilk and bread, to which they sometimes add sugar and then it is a delicious dish for them ; or fresh milk and bread ; or boiled or roasted flesh. They sometimes make use of butter. milk instead of fresh milk, to boil a thin kind of porridge with, which tastes very sour, but not disagreeable in hot weather. To each dinner they have a great sallad, prepared with abundance of vinegar and very little or no oil. They frequently eat buttermilk, bread and sallad, one mouthful after another. Their supper is generally bread and butter,
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