USA > New York > Albany County > Albany > The annals of Albany, Vol. V > Part 18
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The freight from Schenectady to Utica, a distance of one hundred and four miles by water, is seventy-five cents a hundred weight. The carriage by land is the same. This is owing to the great number of wagons, loaded with produce, which enter the cities of Albany and Sche- nectady, where, having discharged their loads, rather than return empty and earn nothing, they are glad to take a freight at the rate of water-carriage.
The Schoharie river, a rapid and innavigable stream, falls into the Mohawk from the south side, at a place called the Mohawk flats, at Fort Hunter, about twenty- five miles above Schenectady. Canada creek is a con- siderable stream of water, which takes its rise in a hilly, broken country, near the head waters of Black river : it empties itself into the Mohawk on the north side, at a place called the Herkimer flats. The Tutconnobach, Corrje, and Lower Canada creeks on the north side, and the Canajoharie, Otsquach, Saguett and Oriskany creeks on the south side, are all small, trifling streams, which afford but a partial supply to the main river. You will please to observe, as a general rule in future, that, in all my references with respect to the rivers and water-courses, I shall use the terms right and left, as the frequent wind- ings and sudden turns of the rivers render it almost impossible to give the true bearings without a constant reference to the compass.
I have noticed but three different kinds of boats used in navigating this river. Those called Schenectady boats are generally preferred ; and, will carry about ten tons' burthen when the river is high ; but when it is low, as at this time, they will not take more than from three to four ; they generally advance against the stream at the rate of from eighteen to twenty or twenty-five miles a day.
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Voyage up the Mohawk.
These boats are built very much after the model of our Long Island round-bottom skiffs, but proportionably lar- ger, being from forty to fifty feet in length, and steered by a large swing oar of the same length. When the wind serves, they set a square-sail and top-sail, which at a few miles' distance, give them all the appearance of small square-rigged vessels coming down before the wind. Our galley, which, I am just now informed, is called the Mohawk Regulator, has gone at the rate of six miles an hour against the stream; and, during this time, believe me, nothing can be more charming than sailing on the Mohawk.
It is not often, however, that a fair wind will serve for more than three or four miles together, as the ir- regular course of the river renders its aid very precari- ous; their chief dependence, therefore, is upon their pike poles.
Poling a Boat.
These are generally from eighteen to twenty-two feet in length, having a sharp-pointed iron, with a socket weigh- ing ten or twelve pounds, affixed to the lower end; the upper has a large knob, called a button, mounted upon it, so that the poleman may press upon it with his whole weight without endangering his person. This manner of impelling the boat forward is extremely laborious, and none but those who have been for some time accustomed to it, can manage these poles with any kind of advantage. Within the boat on each side is fixed a plank running fore and aft, with a number of cross cleets nailed upon it, for the purpose of giving the polemen a sure footing in hard poling. The men. after setting their poles against a rock, bank or bottom of the river, declining their heads very low, place the upper end or button against the back part of their right or left shoulders (according to the
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Voyage up the Mohawk.
side on which they may be poling), then falling down on their hands and toes, creep the whole length of the gang- boards, and send the boat forward with considerable speed. The first sight of four men on each side of a boat, creeping along on their hands and toes, apparently trans- fixed by a huge pole, is no small curiosity ; nor was it, until I had observed their perseverance for two or three hundred yards, that I became satisfied they were not play- ing some pranks. From the general practice of this method, as likewise from my own trials and observation, I am convinced that they have fallen upon the most powerful way possible to exert their bodily strength for the purpose required. The position, however, was so extremely awkward to me, that I doubt whether the de- scription I have attempted will give you an adequate idea of the procedure. I have met with another kind of boat on this river, which is called a dorm or dorem; how it is spelt, I know not. The only difference I could observe in this from the former one is, that it is built sharp at both ends, and, generally, much larger and stouter. They have likewise flats, similar to those you have seen on the Susquehanna, but much lighter built, and longer. On all these they occasionally carry the sails before mentioned.
The Mohawk is by no means dangerous to ascend, on account of the slowness of the boat's progress; but, as it is full of rocks, stones, and shallows, there is some risk in descending it of staving the boat; and, at this season, is so low as to require it to be dragged by hand over many places. The channel. in some instances, is not more than eight feet in width, which will barely permit a boat to pass by rubbing on both sides. This is some- times caused by natural or accidental obstructions of rocks in the channel; but oftener by artificial means. This, which at first view would appear to be an incon- venience, is produced by two lines or ridges of stone, generally constructed on sandy, gravelly, or stony shal- lows, in such a manner as to form an acute angle were they to meet, the extremities of which widen as they extend up the river; whilst at the lower end there is
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Voyage up the Mohawk.
Passing a Rift.
just space enough left to admit the passage of a boat. The water being thus collected at the widest part of these ridges, and continually pent up within narrower limits as it descends, causes a rise at the passage; so that where the depth was no more than eight inches before, a con- trivance of this kind will raise it to twelve; and, strange as it may appear, a boat drawing fifteen inches will pass through it with safety and ease. The cause is simply this; the boat, being somewhat below the passage, is brought forward with considerable velocity, and the moment it dashes into the passage, its resistance to the current is such as to cause a swell of four or five inches more, which affords it an easy passage over the shoal.
The Mohawk may be considered as being generally about one hundred yards in width ; its banks are extreme- ly fertile, and the very appearance of the barns would satisfy a traveler that he was passing through a rich and well cultivated country. The inhabitants are mostly of German descent, and still, in a great measure, retain their national prejudices, and consider all who do not speak their own language either as Yankees or Irishers. The Germans of Pennsylvania generally speak a most corrupt dialect of the German language; yet, when com- pared with that in use on the Mohawk, it may justly be styled " Attic elegance." The Saxons are allowed to speak the purest of any of the Germans, and when I
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Voyage up the Mohawk.
have been complimented as speaking German like a Saxon, which has frequently been the case, [I have felt not a little flattered; judge, then, how I have been mortified to be told by a fair Mohawk, that " I was an outlandish man, or an Irisher, and "did not understand their language, although I " had made out to learn a few words."
The German and Herkimer flats are very fine tracts of bottom land, and in the highest state of cultivation; and, from the great depth of the soil, as well as from logs and trees being frequently found in digging for wells, they were, in all probability, at some remote period, the bottoms of lakes. Canajoharie and Little Falls are the only two towns that lie immediately upon the river throughout the whole distance from Schenectady to Utica. The former is a scattered village on the left bank, about forty-five miles from Schenectady; the latter about thir- teen miles farther up, situated on the right bank, in a rocky and barren country, of little value except for mill- seats. It consists at present of thirty houses, and must. in time, become a very considerable manufacturing place, from the ease and facility' with which mills may be erected.
About a quarter of a mile before arriving at the Falls are two places called the Devil's Hole and Devil's Oven; and, from the description I had received, I expected to find a cavern large enough, at least, to contain a church ; when, lo! on examination, they appeared to be only small, accidental excavations in the side of a rocky mountain, about the size of a common oven, with very large mouth. From the great number of small excavations that are continually forming, it is evident that they have been pro- duced in consequence of a pebble or stone becoming accidentally lodged in a small cavity of the rocks, where, the force of the water giving it a rotatory motion, the cavity has grown with every overflowing of the river, which, when high, rushes directly into these holes. On the approach to the Falls the scenery of the country experiences a sudden and picturesque change; the river becomes contracted to about one-third its usual breadth ; on each side the mountains rise to a towering height, the
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Voyage up the Mohawk.
sides of which, although inaccessible, are covered with lofty trees, which fasten their roots in the fissures and crevices of rocks, and firmly maintain their station in spite of storms and tempests ; while, as you advance, the river seems lost in a wilderness of rocks and precipices. In ascending these Falls you pass through eight locks into the canal, where each ton of merchandise pays a toll of two dollars and twenty-five cents, besides a toll of from one dollar and fifty cents to two dollars and sixty-two and a half cents on each boat. This expense is paid by the captain of the boat. It is, however, certainly too high, and is generally complained of; not that the pro- prietors receive too great profits from these works, which, on the contrary, are at present rather a sinking fund, and must continue so until the number of boats employed on this river is increased in a tenfold degree. This ought to be an object of the first importance with the company, for the heavy charges paid by the few that navigate these waters, tend to discourage others from building boats. The farmers still continue to transport their produce by land in preference to water, as each has his team, which will carry one hundred bushels. They generally go to town once or twice a year, to dispose of their crops, see their friends, and look for great bargains at auctions; and, when ready to return, can take back a load as cheap as the boatman who passes the locks. Besides, they have not only saved in this respect, but also a charge of one or two shillings a bushel on all they bring; for it is generally known that a farmer of this description, by taking his provisions with him, will not spend more than one or two dollars during the trip. The great object of the company, therefore, should be to encourage the use of boats, and endeavor to increase their number; and, by that means, divert the land carriage to the river. This never can be effected while the present mode is per- sisted in; and, were they to lower the toll fifty per cent., I should still say it was too high. In my opinion, they seem rather to have calculated upon high tolls and few boats; experience, however, will soon teach them to con- sider the subject in a different light.
[ Annals v.]
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Voyage up the Mohawk ..
The canal, which is four or five miles long, is a beau- tiful piece of water, passing through the flats of the town of Herkimer. It is a valuable acquisition to those through whose lands it flows ; and, when once planted with handsome trees, will be one of the pleasantest situations in this country. On the left it is joined by Oriskany creek, a small stream which passes through a large and extensive flat of the same name, but mostly unimproved. It was at this spot the famous battle was fought by Gen- eral Herkimer with the Indians, in which he lost his life. The afternoon of my arrival at Utica, we encountered a violent thunder squall, which I should not have noticed to you had not a large tree, immediately opposite to us, been struck with lightning and fallen into the river; so that although drowning is scarcely possible on the Mo- hawk, yet there is some risk of being dashed to pieces by the falling of trees which overhang its banks.
Utica, on the site of Fort Schuyler, is a flourishing village, handsomely situated on the left bank of the Mo- hawk; it contains, at present, about one hundred and sixty houses, the ¿ reatest part of which are painted white, and give it a neat and lively appearance. Foreign goods are nearly as cheap here as in New York, which, I pre- sume, is owing to the merchants' underselling each other; for this, like all other country towns, is overstocked with shop-keepers. Most of the goods intended for the salt- works are loaded here in wagons, and sent on over land, a distance of fifty miles. The carriage over this portage is fifty cents a hundred weight.
Whitestown is also a thriving little village, four miles above Utica; but, as it stands about half a mile back from the shore, nothing of it is seen in the passage up the river. Deerfield lies on the right of the Mohawk immediately opposite to Utica, and is connected with it by a good wooden bridge. It is but an inconsiderable village, of eight or ten houses, chiefly inhabited by very poor people; nor is it likely ever to rise to any degree of respectability, as the ground on which it is situated is subject to be overflowed whenever there is any consid- erable rise of the river.
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Voyage up the Mohawk.
1
The Mohawk affords the fewest fish of any stream I have ever yet met with. Angling, you know, is my fa- vorite sport; and, as I had promised myself much grati- fication from this amusement, I spared nothing that could render my fishing apparatus complete; judge then of my patience and disappointment, when, after nine days' toiling, day and night, I at last caught a poor cat fish not larger than a herring! I hope, however, in a few days. to be amply compensated for my disappointment here, as we shall then be at the head of the Mohawk, and from thence descend with the waters flowing into Lake Onta- rio, which our captain informs me abounds with salmon and other delicious fish ; yet even here, I perceive, another difficulty presents itself, which is, that nature has been so bountiful to the salmon of this country, in furnishing them with quantities of delicious food, as to make them reject the very best tid-bit you can affix to your hook; so that, unless you are expert enough to strike them with a spear, as is the custom, you are likely to go without. I really must confess that my feelings seem rather to revolt at the barbarous and unnatural idea of murdering fish with a large piece of iron, weighing three or four pounds, while, at the same time, a little bit of crooked steel, cov- ered with a fly or worm, and suspended to a line, would afford me, for hours, what I should call rational amuse- ment. Such is the force of habit and prejudice ! The manly attitude of the Indian, standing erect in his canoe as he skims the transparent surface of the lake, grasping his iron spear with his right hand, warns the quick-eyed salmon of his hostile approach-while we, more humane and refined, conceal ourselves under the thick foliage of the shady banks, and, in the guise of friendship, beguile the unwary tribe to the deceitful hook !
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THE MOHAWK RIVER.
From Spafford's Gazetteer of New York, 1824.
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The Mohawk River, a large -western branch of the Hudson, rises in the N. E. of Oneida County, about 20 miles N. of Rome, to which place it runs a course nearly S., and then turns E., bearing S., toward the Hudson, which it enters, in several mouths, between Troy and Waterford, after a comparative course of about 135 miles. Its source is within a few miles of that of Black River, of Lake Ontario, and from Rome it winds along through a deep valley, bordered by high and broken river-hills in many places, and there are many extensive and very va- luable alluvial flats. The stream of the Mohawk is un- equal, with many breaks and rapids, and there are two Falls, of 42 and near 70 feet, the Little Falls, and Cahoos, besides another small one at the German Flats. At Rome, there is a canal of 1} mile, connecting the Mohawk with Wood creek and the Oneida and Oswego rivers of lake Ontario. There is also a canal at the Little Falls, and one around Wolf rift, at the German Flats. A kind of half-guessing admeasurement of the distances and de- scents of the Mohawk, from the level of Rome to the Hudson, makes the distance 112 miles, and the whole descent 338 feet. From Rome to Utica, 163 miles, is a descent of 26 feet; Utica to German Flats, 16 miles, 19} feet; German Flats canal to head of Little Falls, 6 miles, 42 feet ; Little Falls to Palatine bridge, 191 miles, 34 feet ; Palatine bridge to Schenectady, 40 miles, 763 feet ; Schenec- tady to head of Cahoos Falls, 12 miles; Falls, 70 feet; and thence to the Hudson, 2 miles, is a descent of about 70 feet. With the aid of the canals above noticed, the Mohawk is boatable from Schenectady to Rome, from which place is a canal that continues the navigation to the Oswego river. The Mohawk country has long been characterized
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The Mohawk River.
as one of the best for wheat, and the land is good for all the common products of agriculture, though generally broken by hills of considerable magnitude, but exced- ingly well watered with springs and brooks. Great ex- pectations were once entertained from the navigation of this river, and indeed much has been realized, while the roads on its borders were new and but indifferently good, though latterly the transportation has been principally by land. The Erie Canal, now nearly completed, runs along the S. side of the Mohawk, from Rome to a little below Schenectady, where it crosses to the N. side, and con- tinues on the N. to the lower Aqueduct, where it again crosses this stream, from Halfmoon into Watervliet, having twice crossed this river by stupendous aqueducts. At a little below the Cahoos Falls, it bears away south from the river, and receives the Champlain Canal, which has crossed the Mohawk by a dam, below the Cahoos bridge. Young and feeble republics, remove the trees, and logs, and such like obstructions from their rivers; and, as they increase in strength, make, at first, short canals around their rapids and falls, and to con- nect their navigation with other streams; and then use their rivers as feeders, running canals along their valleys, because canal navigation is much more economical than that of rivers, leaving all the surplus water for hydraulic works. By-and-by, we shall probably have a double line of canals and locks, one on each side of this river, and while yet a young republic! An important advantage of this canal navigation, is, that the natural force of the river, and all its descents, rapids, and falls, may be made use of for hydraulic purposes, supplying immense water- power, and innumerable mill-seats. When shall we learn to be wise, and do our own manufacturing?
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TOPOGRAPHY OF ALBANY COUNTY.
From Gordon's Gazetteer of New York, 1836.
Albany County was originally organized by the act of Ist of November, 1683, but has undergone much modifi- cation ; and is now bounded, N. by the counties of Saratoga and Schenectady; W. by Schoharie, the west bounds of the manor of Rensselaerwyck; S. by Greene county, and E. by the Hudson river, dividing it from Rensselaer county. Greatest length 28, greatest breadth 21 miles; area 464 square miles, or 297,351 acres. situated between 42° 23' and 42° 49', N. Lat., 2°40' and 3º 15' E. Lon .; and centrally distant from New York 160, from the city of Albany, 15 miles.
The surface and soil are much variegated. Along the Hudson are alluvial flats, nowhere exceeding a mile in width, susceptible of high cultivation in favorable spots. From these flats, the surface rises abruptly 140 feet, and thence gradually westward to the mountains. On the Mohawk, the land is rugged, broken, and naturally ste- rile; on the west are the Helderberg hills, precipitous and craggy, with a soil of calcareous loam; centrally, the country consists of undulating grounds and plains, with small marshes and tracts of cold, wet sands and clay, but which have been of late years wonderfully fertilized by gypsum, converting the piny and sandy desert into fragrant clover and fruitful wheat fields. still, much of the soil of this county is unimproved, and perhaps unimprovable; but the greater portion is pro- ductive of wheat, of which a large surplus is annually sent to the New York market.
The geological formation is transition ; being the gray- wacke groupe of De la Bêche-underlying rock, arena- ceous and conglomerate graywacke, in thick schistose beds, visible in the banks of the Hudson and Mohawk rivers; while in the Helderbergs appear the higher por-
MAP OF ALBANY COUNTY.
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Coeyhoavis
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Renssetegerville Pottercrille
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Topography of Albany County.
tions of the same groupe, lime and sand stones, abounding in organic remains. In many parts of the country both limestone and graywacke are extensively quarried for building; and many of the locks on the Erie canal, near the city, are constructed of the former. The elevated plain of the east, is underlaid with thick beds of blue yellow argillaceous marl, having a distinct lamellar struc- ture, destitute of animal remains, and covered by a red- dish yellow silicious sand.
Mineral springs abound. At the village of Coeymans is one containing sulphate of magnesia, muriate of lime, iron, sulphureted hydrogen and carbonic acid gas. In Guilderland and Watervliet, they are found impregnated with carbonate of iron and sulphureted hydrogen. Sul- phureted hydrogen springs gush forth in every direction.
In the limestone of the Helderbergs are several ex- tensive caverns, in which are stalactites and stalagmites of various beauty, and many interesting animal remains and minerals; but we are not aware that any bones have been discovered in them. They have apparently been formed by the action of water; small streams of which flow through most of them.
The country is well watered by streams, which in their course from the high grounds, on the west, to the Hudson river, afford valuable hydraulic power. The chief of these are the Patroon's creek; Fox, Butler, and Beaver kills, in the city of Albany; Normanskill, Vla- manskill, Coeymans creek, Hannakraikill, Provost creek, Ten mile creek; Catskill, Foxenkill, Pichteway, Pasic, Eight mile, creeks; Schwitzkill, Black creek, Vlykill, Bozakill, Elisha's Steinhook and Hungerkills.
Normanskill rises in Schenectady county, and has a southeast course of about twenty-eight miles. At its mouth are very extensive and valuable mills. The prin- cipal tributaries are the Boza and Vlykills.
The county, exclusive of the city of Albany, is divided into nine towns.
The post towns and villages are ALBANY, Clarkville, Coeymans, Coeymans Hollow, Cohoes, Disbrows, Dor- mansville. Dunnsville, East Berne, Guilderland, Guilder-
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Topography of Albany County.
land centre. Hall's Mills, Knox, Lishaskill, New Scotland. Potter's Hollow, Reidsville, Rensselaerville, South Wes- lerlo, Union Church, Watervliet, Watervliet centre, Westerlo, West Guilderland.
Albany city may be said to have been founded in 1612, by some Hollanders, and to have been, next to James- town, the earliest European settlement within the pri- mitive 13 United states. A temporary fort was erected in 1614, and Fort Orange, in 1623. By that name it was known until after the English conquest in 1664, when it received the name of Albany from one of the titles of the Duke of York. It was fortified against the Indians by the Dutch, with a stockade in 1645, and ves- tiges of the work remained until 1812.
The city was incorporated by the colonial governor, Dongan, in 1686, with an area one mile wide on the river, extending N. W. to the N. line of the manor of Rensselaer, and retaining that width 13} miles ; the fee simple of which was vested in the corporation. Its bounds were enlarged by addition of part of the small town of Colonie, 25th of February, 1815, which now forms the fifth ward. Area, 7160 acres, a small portion of which only is improved; the soil being a sandy and clay loam of very inferior quality. Originally, by the charter, its government was lodged in a mayor, recorder, six aldermen and six assistants, but is now exercised by a mayor, recorder, ten aldermen, and ten assistant alder- inen, under the title of "The mayor, aldermen and commonalty." It is divided into five wards, each elect- ing, on the 1st Tuesday of May, annually, two aldermen and two assistants, and the usual town officers.
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