USA > New York > Essex County > The military and civil history of the county of Essex, New York : and a general survey of its physical geography, its mines and minerals, and industrial pursuits, embracing an account of the northern wilderness > Part 11
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which were in perfect preservation. These and equally marked indications, extend over a wide space about the fort along the shores of the lake. Two large cemeteries, one near the garrison grounds and the other three miles south, attest that the living, in numerous assemblies, once animated these scenes. The worthy occupant of the former, remarked, without seeming conscious that he was yielding to the dictate of a refined sentiment, that he had felt constrained in particular spots to arrest the plow, be- cause it so fearfully exposed the relics of the dead.
Still another touching testimony remains that man, in an advanced stage of society, has left his foot-prints on these scenes, to indicate his former presence. Asparagus, other hardy plants and shrubs, usually cherished by the hand of human culture, still flourish, wild and uncared for, upon these fields. The settlers, who occupied the territory after the revolution, found, in an area of about four miles from the fort, not a tree or a bush to obstruct the view over the beautiful and wide champaign, that had been once highly cultivated. Now, a heavy forest covers half the tract. Rogers, in describing one of his predatory excursions, speaks of luxuriant crops waving upon these fields, and on another occasion, he alludes to his firing, in a sudden foray, the village itself. He mentions also " settlements on the east side of the lake, one of which was two miles from the fort, and refers to the presence of "three hundred men chiefly inhabitants of the adjacent villages." This number, it may be computed, would represent a population from one thousand to twelve hundred. In a previous page I have referred to the occupation of the adjacent country by actual settlers. No reasonable doubt exists, that large tracts of land lying between the works at Crown point and Ticonderoga were cleared and cultivated long previous to the permanent colonization of the English, and probably at the epoch of the French occupation. The heavy forests which now stand in various localities in this district exhibit conclusive evidence that they are of second growth. Kalm, the Swedish traveler, saw about the fort in 1749, "a con-
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siderable settlement," and "pleasant cultivated gardens," and " a neat church within the ramparts." Persons re- cently deceased, whose recollection extended to a period beyond the revolution, recalled Crown point when its busi- ness operations were conducted in several stores. A cir- cumstance occurring at a later period, which we shall in- troduce, with its evidences, in a subsequent part of this narrative, that seems to have contemplated Crown point as a capital of a projected province, is strongly suggestive of its central position and political importance. A solitary farm house now occupies the peninsula of Crown point.
Soon after the cession to England by the treaty of 1763, of the French possessions, embracing the claims of France to the environs of Lake Champlain, the attention of the colonial government of New York was directed to the importance of establishing a town at Crown point. Gov. Moore in 1768 pressed the subject with great urgency upon the ministry. He represented that the measure would be attended "with great advantages to the province and the service of his majesty," and advises that "the lots in the town should be granted on the easiest terms," and " that their presence would contribute to the rapid settle- ment of the entire region." He also encloses "the plan of the town made by Adolphus Benzel.1 A memorial addressed to the New York legislature in 1775, contains the names of thirty-eight males, described as residents of the district of Ticonderoga and Crown point. We may infer from this fact the presence, at that period, of a popu- lation of some hundreds.
Although Canada continued in the military occupation of the armies of England, the clouds and uncertainties,
1 Doc., VIII, 140. Benzel was a Swede, emigrated to America and joined the army in 1752. In 1770 he was appointed "inspector of the royal woods and forests and unappropriated lands on the Champlain, with a large salary for that period. Nathan Beaman, the youthful guide of Allen, informed Mr. O. F. Sheldon, that about the year 1775, he rowed a party from Vermont, of some festive occasion, to Crown point, and mentioned seeing on the table of Benzel, silver-ware and other evidences of wealth and luxury. Benzel obtained the grant of the military reserves at Crown point .- Doc., VIII, 488.
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which shrouded her future policy in reference to the per- manent acquisition of the country, retarded the settlement of the environs of Lake Champlain by American emigrants. The officers and soldiers, of both the regular and provin- cial line, in their repeated campaigns, had become familiar with the region, and appreciated its beauty and fertility. The teeming west was still the domain of the savage. The impediments to colonization referred to were dispelled, when, by the treaty of 1763, Canada, Acadia and Cape Breton, were ceded to England.
A proclamation made October 7, 1763, by the king of Great Britain, authorized the colonial governors to issue grants of land to be located in any colony as the grantee preferred. The reduced officers and men, who had served in the Canadian campaigns, were especially to be regarded in the issuing of these grants. The holders were em- powered, by the terms of their grants, to make locations upon any unappropriated lands. This revolution, in the attitude of the country, communicated a new impulse to its affairs, and opened its portals widely to immigration. The decade succeeding the year 1765, exhibited vast pro- gress in its improvement and cultivation. Numerous patents were granted, and the locations made under them, came frequently into collision with grants issued during the French intrusion. Stimulated by the value of the lands, immensely enhanced by these events, many grants, utterly fictitious, were asserted, and others revived that had been abrogated by the French government, or for- feited by a failure in the performance of their conditions. Others derived from France, were preserved by actual tenure, and had been recognized by the government of Great Britain. Many of these classes were also violated by location of grants issued in pursuance of the ordinance of 1763. No grants, in addition to those already men- tioned, appear to have been issued by the French autho- rities, to any portion of Essex county, except one of November 15, 1758, which comprehended a large part of the territory, which now constitutes the towns of Crown
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point and Ticonderoga. The adjustment of the conflict- ing rights of the patentees, under these adverse grants of the French and English authorities, was extremely diffi- cult and embarrassing. A proper sense of justice induced a suspension by the government, in 1768, in the issuing of all patents of lands northward of Crown point, which were claimed under any French grants.1
These collisions again threw a cloud over the progress and prosperity of the country. Many of the French claims were ultimately repudiated by England, on account of forfeitures through the neglect of the conditions upon which they were dependent; others were compromised by grants to the claimants of land in Canada of an equiva- lent value.2 England exhibited towards the claimants of these seigniories great tenderness and liberality, in not assuming the obvious position, that the French held the shores of Lake Champlain alone by an usurped occupation, which could neither create nor convey any rights. These questions agitated and disturbed the colonies for several years, and led in the home government to anxious and protracted discussions.
The multiplicity and extent of the grants, issued under the ordinance of 1763, the existence of these conflicting claims, and the repugnance of many of the patentees to the occupation themselves of their land, combined to depress their value and throw them into market.
William Gilliland, a native of Ireland, was, at that pe- riod, a merchant, residing in the city of New York. En- dowed with great force of character and enterprise, and possessing expanded and sagacious views, he became con- spicuous in the early settlement of Clinton and Essex counties, and held, for many years, a controlling ascend- ancy in the affairs of that region. Patents of rich and
1 Doc., VIII, 115. In the year 1809, the validity of these ancient French grants was adjudicated upon by the supreme court of New York, with a result adverse to the claim of title under them .- Johnson's Reports, IV, 163. " Doc., VIII, 577.
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extensive manors had been, anterior to this time, granted in the southern sections of the province. Actuated by the desire of forming to himself a similar estate, the mind of Mr. Gilliland was attracted to the valley of Champlain, then surrounded by the circumstances to which allusion has been made. He employed, with this view, competent agents to explore the west shores of the lake. The larger proportion of the territory upon the eastern side, had al- ready been granted and appropriated. He decided upon the result of this survey, to locate his proposed domain near the Boquet river, expanding southerly along the bor- ders of the lake towards Split rock.
The remarkable beauty and fertility of the tract still vindicate the wisdom and tact of his selection. His first location was a section of two thousand acres, under a grant to James Field. This was situated immediately south of the Boquet,1 and is now designated as Field's patent. Mr. Gilliland subsequently purchased seven additional claims, which embraced in the aggregate more than fifteen thousand acres of land. The territory he comprehended and located under these grants, commencing a half mile south of the river, extended to Judd's patent, which seems to have been previously surveyed, near Split rock, present- ing on the shore of the lake a line of about six miles, and spreading three or four miles into the interior. The pur- chase of these rights was effected in 1764, and the grants issued and the land surveyed the ensuing year. Impressed by the natural predilections of an European to manorial institutions, his policy seems to have designed the creation of an estate in fee in himself, with subordinate estates to a tenantry held at annual leases. The consummation of a
1 The origin of the name of this river is uncertain. Tradition says it was thus named by Mr. Gilliland, from the profusion of flowers on its banks. It is also supposed to have been derived from Gen. Boquet, an English officer of considerable distinction. An ingenious friend has suggested that it may have been derived from the French word baquet, trough, a term pecu- liarly descriptive of the form of the river, between the falls and its debouch into the lake.
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scheme of this character, applied to a wild and uncultivated region, demanded an exercise of extreme skill and sagacity.
The inducements presented by Gilliland to immigration, were conceived in the most liberal and enlarged spirit. His arrangements for organizing the proposed colony manifested every regard for its comfort and success. He seems to have secured a body of intelligent and indus- trious emigrants, formed principally of mechanics and laborers, and adapted to endure the toil and privation of a pioneer life. Amply provided with implements, tools, provisions, and all other requisites, he left New York with his colony on the 10th of May, 1765, and occupied ten days in the voyage from that city to Albany. Deciding, at this place, to convey a part of the immigrants and the material by water, to Fort Edward, he was compelled to purchase bateaux at Schenectady, and to transport them overland to Albany. In the laborious toil of eight days, contending with the strong current and dangerous rapids of the Hudson, he reached Fort Edward in safety. A part of the train had proceeded by land, driving with them a herd of forty-one head of neat cattle, destined for the future use of the colony. The oxen were employed in the transportation of the boats and effects to Lake George. Three days were exhausted in this operation, when the little fleet was again launched, and wafted by sails to Ticonderoga. Two days more of transportation by land, brought them to the waters of Lake Champlain. One bateau was freighted with lumber at Ticonderoga, sup- plied by saw mills which were erected during the French occupation. Again embarking, they arrived on the shores of the Boquet on the 8th day of June, having occupied in their journey thirty days of arduous and incessant labor.
After the interval of two days, devoted to rest and pre- liminary arrangement, they proceeded up the river to the point of their ultimate destination, and formed their encamp- ment upon an island at the base of the falls, which, from that circumstance, still bears the name of Camp island.
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With promptness and energy operations were at once commenced. A road was opened to the falls, and by the 15th of that month ground had been cleared, timber pre- pared, and a house, forty-four feet by twenty-two, partly erected. This edifice was probably the first dwelling built by civilized man, on the western shore of Champlain, be- tween Crown point and Canada. The cattle had been driven to Crown point, and there made to swim the narrow passage. Proceeding to a point opposite to Split rock, they were ferried over, and from thence driven through the woods to Gilliland's settlement. A part of them were confined and fed upon the leaves of the trees, but the largest portion were turned loose to the unlimited range of the forest.
The first great necessity secured, by the erection of a dwelling, the colonists prepared for general improvement. The forest was opened, the vicinity explored, timber pre- pared for a saw-mill, which was erected in the autumn, at the lower part of the falls, and supplied with power by a wing dam, which was projected into the current, turning the water into a flume that conducted it to the mill.
Game was abundant in the woods; the most delicious salmon thronged the stream, that at most laved their threshold, and the beaver meadows yielded them sufficient hay for the approaching winter.1 The spontaneous pro- ducts of a bounteous land were thus within the reach of their industry and energies. Meanwhile, as these efforts were in progress, Mr. Gilliland had visited Quebec, and returned laded with all the other necessaries to secure the comfort and safety of his people.
1 Another resort to procure a supply of fodder was of infinite value to the first settlers, and is still not unimportant to the inhabitants of the country .. This was the marshes, created by the spring overflowings of the low allu- vials upon the shores of the lake. The hay cut upon these marshes is very inferior to that cured from cultivated grasses, or even the product of the beaver meadows. The growth upon the natural meadows is usually a coarse and harsh grass, intermingled with rushes, brakes and ferns. On more elevated ground, a better quality of hay is produced.
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" During his absence he had examined the region with a vigilant eye, upon both shores of the lake; had ascend ed the navigable streams, sounded their depths, and explored their banks. Twelve grants had now been located by Mr. Gilliland. Eight of these were situated within the present towns of Essex and Willsboro'; two at Westport, and two at Salmon river, now in Clinton county. A tier of lots, intended for farms, was surveyed and numbered in this year (1765), ranging along the shore of the lake, from the mouth of the Boquet to Judd's patent. Many of these lots were immediately selected by the settlers, but on account of the advanced season were not occupied until the succeed- ing spring." The settlement upon the Boquet was named Milltown. Mr. Gilliland, in November, left it, with his other interests upon Lake Champlain, in charge of a kins- man, whom he dignified with the European title of steward. He passed the winter himself in New York, engaged in preparations for the removal of his family to his new estate. The cattle which had been turned out upon their arrival, were recovered with great difficulty in the autumn, and in a condition almost as wild as the na- tive denizens of the forests. The first winter of these pio- neers in the wilds of New York, was passed without suffering or remarkable incident. Their time was occu- pied in attending the cattle, cutting and drawing saw- logs to the mill, and in the preparation of timber for the construction of their buildings. In January, 1766, their hay was drawn upon the ice, from a beaver meadow, two miles south-west from Split rock (now Whallon's bay), to Milltown.
At the approach of spring, all the efforts of the settlers were enlisted in constructing their dwellings, and making other improvements upon their newly acquired farms. The first house upon these lots is supposed to have been erected for Robert McAuley, April 14th, 1766, on the north bank of Bachelor's creek. Others rapidly succeeded, until the whole space between the Boquet and Split rock was studded by the neat cabins of the settlers.
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During the spring, the provisions of the colony began to fail, but their wants were promptly supplied from the stores of the garrison at Crown point.
In June, Mr. Gilliland returned with his family, and bear- ing supplies for another year. "His journey had been difficult and disastrous. In passing the rapids of the Hud- son, near Stillwater, one of the bateaux had capsized, precipitating part of his family into the rushing torrent. One of his daughters was lost. They resumed their voy- age in fearful forebodings, sometimes drawing their boats on land, and again launching them upon the water. Worn with grief and toil, they arrived at length at Milltown, and were soon settled in their wilderness home on the banks of the Boquet." 1
By a royal ordinance of October 7th, 1763, the parallel of forty-five degrees north latitude had been established as the boundary between New York and the province of Quebec. This ideal line, was, however, indefinite and controverted. In September, 1767, Governor Moore, of New York, and Carlton, of Quebec, caused the line to be fixed by careful astronomical observations. The same observations established the latitude of Crown point at forty-four degrees one minute twenty seconds. On this occasion, the munificent hospitalities of Milltown were extended to the royal commissioners and their suite.
The return of the proprietor had infused a fresh spirit, and imparted a new and vigorous impulse to the little commonwealth. The colony continued to advance in improvement and prosperity. The saw-mill was in suc- cessful operation, supplying all the demand for lumber. A smithery had been erected. Various seeds had been sown to supply culinary vegetables. The government, political as well as moral, of the community, was in the exclusive guidance and control of the proprietor. Its ad- ministration seems to have been eminently patriarchal. The appointment of justice of peace, which had been
1 0. F. Sheldon.
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conferred on Mr. Gilliland, in his primitive jurisdiction, endowed him with a plenitude of powers, that essentially embraced all the functions of counsellor, judge, and chan- cellor. The ample limits of Albany county, at that period, embraced the whole region of northern New York.
During the winter of 1767, Gilliland made an accurate and minute survey upon the ice of the lake shore, along the entire front of his locations, and named the prominent topographical features. In the same season the first horse introduced into the settlement, was brought out upon the ice, for Mr. Gilliland, from Canada.
William McAuley, a relative, and one of the prominent and most efficient coadjutors of Gilliland, occupied as a farm, the site of the present beautiful village of Essex. James Gilliland, a brother of the proprietor, and in after years a distinguished officer in the American army, settled on a lot on the north bank of the Boquet. This stream, at the time of Gilliland's colonization of its shores, and for a subsequent period of several years, was a conspicu- ous landmark in the country.
The site and the water-power of the village of Port Henry was granted in 1766, to Benjamin Porter, a miller. It is supposed a milling establishment was erected by him and abandoned or destroyed before or during the revolu- tion. When tranquillity was restored after that event, he returned to the scene, and in connection with a Robert Lewis, of Albany, rebuilt the mills. The ruins of these structures existed until a recent date.
No prominent event distinguished the annals of these settlements for several years. Their agricultural and industrial improvement continued to advance, the colony gradually increased in population, flourishing mills were erected, and other conveniences and refinements of civil- ized life were introduced. Schools were early established. The position of the first school-house is still pointed out. Occasional religious services were enjoyed. I cannot ascertain the existence, in the early epoch of the settle- ment, of the stated administration of religious ordinances,
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although a clergyman, named George Henry, accompanied Mr. Gilliland with the first body of emigrants.
Albany county was divided in 1772, and the northern section, embracing both sides of Lake Champlain, was organized into a new county, which received the name of Charlotte.
An event occurred in 1775, which forcibly illustrates the tendency at that time of public sentiment to democra- tic institutions, and exhibits its bias towards the doctrines of self-government. This settlement, it has been stated, was in the ideal limits of Charlotte county, but it possessed no tangible and practical political or social organization. It was too remote to be reached by the protecting arm of government, and too unimportant to receive any specific legislative action. The presence and ascendancy of some civil or political power were demanded, in the changed condition and increased population of the colony, by their common interests, and for their mutual protection and safety. Under these circumstances they convened on the 17th of March, 1775,1 by common approbation, an assem- bly of the colonists, and constituted themselves in effect, into a pure democracy. At this popular convention it was determined to institute for many practical purposes a local government. A system of police and social regulations was matured, formally adopted, and ratified by the indivi- dual signatures of the citizens. It was made imperative upon all, and each was pledged to abide by its provisions " by every tie of honor and honesty."2 In contemplating in its humble aspect this singular and most interesting incident, the mind instinctively reverts to the cabin of the
1 They were chiefly Irish, and St. Patrick's festival was no doubt design- edly adopted for the occasion.
2 But ten years had elapsed since the arrival of Gilliland with his colony, and still only two signatures are attached to this document of all those who accompanied him as original settiers. And thus it is almost uniformly in the history of our country. The pioneer opens the wilderness, and levels the highway for the advance of civilization ; but as its march approaches, he recedes and passes onward to new scenes of toil and to incur fresh priva- tions .- Pioneer History of Champlain Valley.
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May-Flower, where a similar scene was enacted, under the guidance of the same spirit and resting upon the same eternal principles. The officers of the association, thus constituted, comprised a moderator, two superintendents of roads and bridges, three appraisers of damages, and a town clerk. William Gilliland was elected the first moderator, and Jotham Gardner the town clerk. The first act of this primitive organization was an ordinance, authorizing the construction of a bridge, by a tax to be levied and paid in labor, assessed on the basis of property.
A project is believed to have been agitated at this period, which, in its success, would have formed a prominent feature in the annals of this colony, and been an event of grave interest and importance in the political history of the country. A scheme, in which Gilliland and the elder Skeene, of a family which attained subsequent revolu- tionary notoriety, were the prominent agitators, was dis- cussed and essentially matured, which contemplated the organization of a new province. Its imagined limits were to extend from the St. Lawrence to the Connecticut, resting at the north on the Canada boundary and with an undefined line at the south. In this project Skeene was to receive the appointment of governor of the contemplated province, and Crown point was to be constituted the capital.
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