USA > New York > Essex County > The military and civil history of the county of Essex, New York : and a general survey of its physical geography, its mines and minerals, and industrial pursuits, embracing an account of the northern wilderness > Part 31
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NATURAL HISTORY.
well to protect himself from their assaults, while securing the honey, as to prevent his being thrown on a false line, by wandering bees from the same hive, who would bring him back to the already ravaged tree. This often happens.
Bee hunting, my informant1 remarks, in closing, "is a most exciting sport, and when pursued by a skillful hunter, is also very profitable. I have known of over a ton of honey having been procured in a single month by three persons, myself being one of the number, besides more than four hundred pounds of wax. This honey was sold in Boston for fifteen dollars the hundred weight, and the wax for twenty cents the pound." " We discovered in this excursion fifty-seven hives, which yielded from thirty- five to one hundred and fifty pounds of honey each, de- pending on their age and size." 1
In the south-western section of the town of Chesterfield, and amidst a rude and mountainous tract of country, I am informed, an immense colony of bees existed, consist- ing of numerous hives. Their abodes were in the crevices and fissures of the rocks and inaccessible. The whole atmosphere in the vicinity, it is represented, was filled with the bees. Various attempts by excavation and blasting have been made, to reach the deposits of honey, but with- out success. Owing to these annoyances and many dis- turbances, the bees became so exasperated and ferocious, and they were so formidable from the infinitude of their number, that it was hazardous to approach their retreat. It is supposed, that this remarkable and most interesting colony, has been destroyed by the conflagrations, which in recent years have swept over that district.
A singular fact in the nature and habit of the bee is re- marked by hunters. While they permit some persons to approach their habitations with perfect impunity, they evince towards others the most determined and inveterate instinctive hostility.
1 Mr. James M. Weston, Chesterfield.
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HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY.
FORESTS.
The woodlands of this region afforded to the early set- tlers a ready and available resource, and still afford a most important element in the business and prosperity of the country. When the wilderness was penetrated and the forest fell before the woodman's axe, in most parts of the country, he collected the bodies of the trees into log heaps, reduced them to ashes, and with the simple chemistry of the woods, and in the rude laboratory that necessity had invented, manufactured them into potashes. This com- modity commanded a prompt and high price in the Cana- dian markets, and was received by the local merchant in exchange for merchandise and provisions required by the settler.
The several species of the pine, the spruce and hemlock constituted the great glory and magnificence of the ori- ginal forests. We still see vestiges in their remaining stumps and roots that indicate their immense size. These giants of the forests were at an early day only incum- brances upon the soil, and were destroyed by a careless hand. The native of the county, to whom I have referred, informs me that he has seen white pine trees girdled and left to fall aud rot upon the earth in the process of prepar- ing ground for a potatoe field, which would now be worth one hundred and fifty dollars upon the stump. Similar enormous trees are still found in the interior wilderness. A gentleman lately stated to me, that he had seen a pine log, which in floating down the Raquette river, had become stranded in a cove, which measured nearly six feet in dia- meter.
The beauty and magnificence of the forests upon the islands and shores of Lake Champlain, excited the admi- ration of its discoverer. ITis description of the scenery in this particular evinces the singular accuracy which charac- terises his entire work. He speaks of "the quantity of vines, handsomer than any I ever saw." The wild grape is still found upon these islands, and upon the mainland,
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NATURAL HISTORY.
in the greatest profusion, and in numerous varieties of color and flavor. They spread their tendrils far and wide. often overtopping the loftiest trees in their luxuriance and beauty, and forming barriers in their tangled branches, impervious to man or beast. In the month of July, when Champlain first visited the lake, he could only see and admire the splendor of the vegetable growth, without being able to judge of the quality of the fruit.
The shag bark hickory, the hazel, the butternut, and the chestnut, now rarely found, but formerly very common in the southern sections of the county, are indigenous to the county. The various species of the maple, birch, beech, elms and oaks, are all natives of these woodlands, and often attain in the primitive forest a magnificent growth. The white cedar of great beauty and size abounds in the swamps, and often appear in large numbers on the uplands. I noticed them, far upon the acclivities of the Adirondacs, of immense proportions, but observed, and was assured that the fact was uniform, that, although beautiful in their exterior appearance, they were defective and hollow at the core. The red cedar was discovered at the first occupa- tion of the country, but is nearly extirpated. Several varieties of the maple and birches, the black walnut, the black cherry and butternut, often stately and splendid trees, are highly valued in the arts and manufactures, and are exported in considerable quantities for the purpose. The oaks (particularly the white oak), were formerly of great. importance, and still continue to a considerable extent, as articles of exportation, at one period, to Canada, but now to the southern markets. The larch or hackmatack, is abundant and highly valuable. This timber with the cedar and oak, affords most excellent material in ship building. The juniper flourishes in great abundance in many sections of the county, indicating, however, by its presence a thin and sterile soil. It spreads, a few inches elevated above the earth, a thick and perfect umbel, often several feet in dia- meter, mantled by a deep and rich green foliage. Stand-
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HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY.
ing in solitary plants or in clusters, it imparts an unique and highly ornamental feature to the scenery.
The product of wood, in the primitive and vigorous forests, is vast; upon exuberant soils, sometimes exceed- ing one hundred cords to the acre, and among the rocks and broken acclivities, seldom yielding less than twenty cords. Within an area of several miles around manufac- turing works, the value of the wood, standing, ranges from twenty-five cents to one dollar and a half the cord, con- trolled in its price by its quality and position. This estimate refers to localities where the advantages of trans- portation authorize the erection of manufactories, and not to regions more remote and inaccessible. Such districts are happily rare in the county, and are rapidly diminishing before the progress of improving facilities of intercourse. At one period, a large demand existed for wood to be used as fuel in steam boats.
The quantity of wood in Essex county, consumed for manufacturing purposes, has been immense, and can only be computed by a rough approximation. It probably should be estimated by hundreds of thousands of cords. A great change has in late years occurred in the substitu- tion, in many manufactories and generally with steam boats, of mineral coal for the charcoal and wood. This is due to the increasing scarcity and enhanced price of wood, and to other economic views. In extensive districts of the county where the wood has been cut exclusively for coaling, and the land is not required for agricultural pursuits, a second spontaneous growth rapidly shoots up, soon mantling the earth with a luxuriant product, which in the term of fifteen or twenty years, yields a heavy burthen of wood and timber. This growth rarely contains plants of the original forest, but is usually composed of trees of a totally dissimilar character. Pine is usually succeeded by hard wood, and the site of a forest of the latter is occupied by evergreens. Different sections of the county produce in this aspect, irregular and various results. The aspen, yellow poplar, white birch, and oaks, generally succeed the pines ; but in
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NATURAL HISTORY.
the vicinity of the Adirondac works, the small red cherry is almost the exclusive second growth succeeding the stately hard wood forest. The dry and loamy plains contiguous to the Elba works, of a past generation, which were cut over to supply them with fuel, are now clothed with forests of spruce. The latter fact is remarkableand worthy of reflec- tion, as the habits and peculiarities of the spruce in its natural position adapt it to a totally different soil. This recuperation of the woodland, which nature thus bounti- fully provides, may in connection with the waste and broken territory, afford, by judicious economy and manage- ment, a certain and permanent supply of fuel, to all the arts for many ages.
I observed in my investigations relative to this second growth, circumstances that excited my attention, and which I deem entitled to consideration. In the fastnesses of the Adirondacs I perceived entire groves of the young cherry trees, loaded with a black excrescence, similar in appear- ance to the disease which has been so destructive in our plum orchards. In other sections of the county, I noticed large tracts of the black cherry and birch, dead and dying, and presenting in their blackened and blasted bark, the aspect of the pear and apple trees which have been visited by the destroying fire blight. If, as I conjecture, these diseases are identical with those known to our gardens (their results are certainly very analogous), does not the fact open an interesting field for the researches of science, as to their origin, causes, and operations ?
The chestnut groves, which so beautifully adorn some of the northern towns of Warren county, only enter the con- fines of Essex. The sweet walnut is, however, widely scattered over various sections of the county, and flourishes in great profusion and beauty, in the lovely tract that spreads from the cliff's of Lake George to Champlain. When the early frosts of autumn have opened the husks, and their luscious treasures are poured upon the earth, the bright, shouting, joyous groups of nutting children, which gather
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HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY.
beneath their boughs, communicate to the landscape "a most primitive and pastoral scene.
Spreading from the warm soil that borders Champlain, to the Alpine summits of the Adirondacs, where almost the rigors of the frigid zone are stamped upon the climate, the soil of Essex county, naturally imparts a great diver- sity to its botanical productions. There is nothing, how- ever, so distinct or novel, as necessarily to require notice in a work of this character. The cryptogamic plants are exceeding rich and exuberant.
CLIMATE AND WINDS.
Grave senators who have pronounced northern New York the Siberian district of America, exhibit more fancy on the subject, than intelligence. No climate is more salu- brious, or better calculated to secure enjoyment and comfort to man. The atmosphere, clear, elastic and invigorating, bears no miasmatic exhalations. The winters of this climate are often severe but equable. The summers are warm, and yield a rapid impulse to vegetation, that promotes an early maturity. The heat of summer is modified by the cool and exhilarating breezes of the lakes and mountains. A signal difference occurs in the climate and seasons of the territory bordering upon the shores of Lake Champlain and that of a few miles in the interior. The influence of that large expanse of fresh water mitigates equally the rigors of the winters and the heats of summer. The terri- tory bordering upon the lake has usually an exemption of at least two weeks from the late frosts of the spring and the early frosts of autumn, to which the interior is ex- posed. The fact is well authenticated, although its philo- sophy may not be so readily explained, that premature frosts often occur in the meridian of Pennsylvania when the valleys of Essex county are totally free from its effects. The snows accumulate among the mountains and in the higher valleys to the depth of several feet, although in most parts of the county they are less abundant than in the western or central sections of the state; they remain,
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NATURAL HISTORY.
however, longer upon the earth. An excess of snow is a rare event, although the want of it often embarrasses the operations of business.
The absence of snow as well as rain is peculiar to the valley of the Au Sable, and in many seasons, essentially affects its agricultural and manufacturing prosperity. No part of the country is visited more frequently by protracted and blighting draughts than this district. The circum- stance is universally remarked, and may satisfactorily be imputed to the influence of the mountains and lake upon the atmospheric currents. These aerial currents, governed by much the same laws which control the course of all fluids, are involved in eddies created by the gorges and ra- vines of the mountains, are arrested by their airy summits, and often receive a direction from these causes. Clouds, not unfrequently, are perceived approaching the valleys, bearing rain and portentous of thunder and lightning, when in a moment their course is changed, and skimming along the acclivities of the mountains, they pour upon them their contents. Hence, in a dry season when nature elsewhere is parched and seared, the slopes of these moun- tains smile in verdant and luxuriant beauty. The move- ments of these atmospheric streams, witnessed from the valleys embosomed by lofty mountains, are often beautiful and sublime exhibitions.
A valued correspondent1 furnished me with several highly interesting facts illustrative of this subject. The amphitheatre of mountains that nearly surround North Elba, is imperfect on the western side from whence the plateau spreads far into the interior. Volumes of clouds often advance from that direction, until entering within the influence of these currents, they suddenly divide, the dissevered masses passing to the north and south, along the brows of the respective mountains. He describes a scene of singular grandeur and sublimity, that occurred at North Elba in 1847, and strikingly elucidates this remark-
1 T. L. Nash.
24
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HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY.
able influence. On a still and sultry evening of summer, when not a breeze moved the leaf, a dark and heavy bank of clouds suddenly appeared in the western horizon, and gradually approaching, menaced an immediate and vio- lent storm. Whilst gazing upon the advance of the. impending tempest, he beheld in a moment the masses rent asunder. One column rushed along the crest of Whiteface, and the other amid pealings of thunder and torrents of rain, careered over the lofty summits of the Adirondacs, whilst in the valley, an instant before threat- ened by the tornado, all was serene and calm, and the moon and stars beamed softly upon it, through the riven canopy of black and flashing clouds. I introduce these impressive incidents to illustrate the powerful agency which is exerted on the elements, by these lofty pinnacles.
The winds in the vicinity of Lake Champlain are mate- rially modified in their direction by its influence.
The aurora borealis, displayed in the latitude of Essex county in transcendent splendor and effulgence, exerts, it is believed, at times a decisive effect upon the course and character of the atmospheric current. The exhibition of that phenomenon is generally, if not uniformly succeeded by a prevalence of southerly winds. The duration and severity of the one seems proportionate to the intensity and expansion of the other.
The climate of northern New York, has, since its dis- covery, gradually, but very decidedly ameliorated. The improvements which have removed the forests, and ex- posed the earth to the action of the sun and atmosphere have eminently tended to promote amelioration. The winters are pronounced by aged settlers to be at this time, far less rigorous and protracted, than in their early recol- lections of the country. The rains are now more equally diffused through the mild seasons, and not falling as formerly in periodical and severe tempests.1 The autumnal season is the glory of this climate, often lingering late into
1 John Hoffnagle, Esq.
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NATURAL HISTORY.
November, and clothing the forests with its gorgeous and brilliant robes. It is, to all animated nature, the most delightful and joyous period of the year, fraught with bless- ings and pleasure, and bearing the inspiration of health and vigor.
Hardy stock is often turned off by the 1st of April, although the 20th of that month may be regarded as the average period when grazing may be relied upon. The commencement of foddering usually ranges with the varieties of stock, from the 15th of November to Christmas. Plowing commences in a series of years, about the middle of April, and usually terminates in November, although in some seasons it is extended into the last days of the year.
The table which the following is a copy, has been formed by the careful observation of Mr. Alvin Colvin at Port Kent for a series of years, and exhibits very interesting facts in illustration of the climate and seasons on Lake Cham- plain.
Trips between Burlington and Port Kent, each year.
Last Trips.
First Trips.
Steamer Saranac, Jan. 1,1845
Schooner LaFayette, Feb.
3, 1845
Steamer Saranac, Jan. 3, 1846
Sloop Cashier, Feb. 1, 1846
Steamer Saranac, Jan. 5, 1847
Saranac, May 7,1847
John Gilpin, Feb.
8, 1848
Ethan Allen, March 30, 1848
Saranac, April 16, 1849
Saranac, Jan. 15,1850 1850
Sail boats ran all winter.
Steamer Saranac,
Jan. 25, 1851
66
Saranac,
April 1,1851
Boston, Jan. 25, 1852
Boston, April
25, 1852
Boston, Feb. 10, 1853
Boston, April 15, 1853
66 Francis Saltus, Jan. 23, 1854
66 Saranac, April 19, 1854
Sloop Danl. Webster, Jan.
24,1855
Steamer Francis Saltus, Jan. 19, 1856
66
Montreal,
Jan.
9,1857
66 Montreal,
Feb.
1, 1858
J. Clark,
Feb.
7,1858
66
Montreal,
Jan. 9,1859
66 Montreal,
April 2,1859
Schooner Excelsior,
March 28, 1860
Steamer Boston,
Jan.
10,1861
Boston,
April 15, 1861
Boston,
Jan.
1,1862
66 Boston,
April 28, 1862
Sail boat ran to,
Feb.
1,1862
Steamer Boston,
Jan. 21, 1863
Montreal,
April 7,1858
Sail boat ran to,
Jan.
25, 1860
Steamer Winooski, April 1, 1845
Winooski, April
7,1846
Ethan Allen, Jan. 6,1849
66 LaFayette, Jan.
11, 1849
Saranac, March 26, 1850
Boston, April 20, 1855
Boston,
April 21, 1856
Montreal,
April 10,1857
Steamer Montreal,
April
4, 1860
Montreal, April 27,1863
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HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY.
Last Trips.
First Trips.
Sail boat ran to,
Jan. 28, 1863
Boat J. G. Weather- bee,
March 30, 1864
Steamer Montreal, April 8, 1864
Steamer Montreal,
Jan. 14, 1865
Lake closed,
Jan. 18, 1865
Schooner Excelsior, Jan. 21, 1866
Boat Oregon,
April 11, 1866
Steamer Montreal, April 12, 1866
Steamer Montreal, Jan. 11, 1867
Montreal,
April 15, 1867
Sail boats run all winter.
Steamer Montreal, Jan.
4, 1868
Montreal, April 17,1868
Lake froze to Burling-
ton,
Jan, 11, 1868
MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY.
THE ADIRONDAC DISTRICT.
The field of researches presented by Essex county in these departments is so expanded and rich, that the labor of years would be required for its competent examination.
The mineral wealth of Essex county is not limited to iron ore, but comprehends numerous other minerals of great interest and value. Iron, however, in immense deposits, constitute its predominant resource. In many sections of the county, it forms the basis of the entire structure of the earth, and occurs not merely in veins, nor even masses, but in strata which rise into mountains. The surface is often strewn with boulders of iron ore, weighing from a few pounds to many tons, as ordinary rocks are scattered in other districts. The Adirondac district is probably surpassed in no region in the extent of its deposits of iron, and the higher qualities and varied properties of its ores. The ores seem to concentrate in the vicinity of the village of Adirondac, and here literally constitute the formation. The cellars of their dwellings, in many in- stances, are excavated in the massive beds.
The discovery of a mineral deposit, extensive and valua- ble, as the Adirondac Iron District, is an event so rare and important, that it seems appropriate in a work of this character, to perpetuate its minute history. An Indian
Steamer Boston, Feb. 13, 1864
Montreal, April 7,1865
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NATURAL HISTORY.
approached the late David Henderson, Esq., of Jersey city, in the year 1826, whilst standing near the Elba iron works, and taking from beneath his blanket a piece of iron ore, he presented it to Mr. H. with the inquiry expressed in his imperfect English, "You want to see 'um ore, me fine plenty -all same." When asked where it came from, he pointed towards the south-west and explained "me hunt beaver all 'lone, and fine 'um, where water run over iron dam." The Indian proved to be a brave of St. Francis tribe, honest, quiet and intelligent, who spent the sum- mers in hunting amid the wilds of the Adirondacs. An exploring party, consisting of Mr. Henderson, Messrs. Duncan and Malcolm McMartin, John McD. McIntyre, and Dyer Thompson, was promptly arranged, who submit- ting themselves to the guidance of the Indian, plunged into the pathless forest. The first night they made their bivouac beneath the giant walls of the Indian pass. The next day they reached the site of the present works, and there saw the strange spectacle described by the brave; the actual flow of a river over an iron dam, created by a ledge of ore, which formed a barrier across the stream. The reconnaissance revealed to their astonished view, various and immense deposits of ore, equal almost to the demands of the world for ages. A glance disclosed the combination in that secluded spot of all the ingredients, and every facility for the most extensive manufacture of iron, in all its departments. In close proximity existed an illimitable supply of ore, boundless forests of hard wood and an abundant water power. The remote position of the locality formed the chief impediment to the scheme, which was adopted at once by the explorers. Having ac- complished a hasty. but satisfactory examination of the deposit, the party with no delay that might attract attention, the same night and in intense darkness and a driving storm, retraced their path through the forest, after having carefully concealed the evidences of their work. Messrs. Henderson and McMartin, taking with them the Indian, of whom they did not deem it safe to lose sight, proceeded
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HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY
directly to Albany, and there effected the purchase from the state of an extended tract embracing the scene of this remarkable discovery.1 A road was soon constructed to the site with slight aid from the state, at great expense, through a dense uninterrupted forest of thirty miles in length. The purpose was pursued with untiring energy and strong enthusiasm, by the proprietors, Archibald Mc- Intyre, Archibald Robertson and David Henderson, Esqs. A settlement was soon commenced and an experimental furnace constructed. Iron was produced of rare and valuable qualities, rivaling almost in toughness and strength the best products of the Swedish furnaces. A small blast furnace was soon afterwards erected, together with several forge fires and a puddling furnace. Bar iron was subse- quently fabricated to a considerable extent. Iron produced from this ore has proved admirably adapted to the manu- facture of steel, and has been extensively used for that purpose by the steel works of the Adirondac Company at Jersey city.2 I need only refer in addition to the report of Mr. Johnson which exhibits the triumphant display of that steel at the World's Fair. A magnificent blast fur- nace was completed about 1850 at the Adirdondac works, of the largest dimensions, perfect in its construction and powers, and most judiciously adjusted in all its arrange- ments. The first furnace had been erected in 1848.
Numerous ore beds exist within an area of three miles, and nearly all are comprised within half that distance from the works. They are singularly distinct in the appearance; nature, and quality of the ores.3 The Mill- pond ore bed is situated in so immediate proximity with
1 Mr. Henderson's Journal.
2 See J. Dellafield's address, page 142, State Agricultural Transactions, 1851.
" I derive much of my information relative to the history and minerals of the Adirondacs, from the valuable manuscripts prepared at my request, by Alexander Ralph and Robert Clark, Esq. I have before me a copy of the original journal of Mr. Henderson, furnished me by Mr. Clark, now of Cincinnati. I regret that my space will not allow me to publish these highly interesting documents.
375
NATURAL HISTORY.
the furnace erected by the company, that its foundation rests upon a section of the vein. The length of this bed, ascertained by the actual mensuration of Professor Em- mons, is three thousand one hundred and sixty-eight feet, and the width seven hundred feet. An opening of forty feet in depth has been excavated, and at that point, the ore is found more free from rock, and richer than at the surface. Its hardness is not of that character which con- stitutes the hard iron of the mines, nor does it communi- cate that quality to iron which it yields. Slight injections of serpentine in irregular veins, crystals of green feldspar, seams of carbonate of lime, and the common rock, are mingled with this ore, and incidentally, small particles of sulphuret of iron may be traced, although too minute to injure the quality of the ore. This bed has afforded nearly all the ore used in the furnace.
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