USA > New York > Essex County > The military and civil history of the county of Essex, New York : and a general survey of its physical geography, its mines and minerals, and industrial pursuits, embracing an account of the northern wilderness > Part 29
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338
HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY.
fines of this county, it reveals another appearance. The broken and rocky range of mountains subsides into a high plateau, with a fertile soil, adapted by its ingredients and formation to tillage and more particularly to grazing. The plains of North Elba extend to, and unite with this territory, forming an expansion of the plateau, in the bosom of the mountains over an area of about one hundred square miles.
The systems of lakes, which extend over this territory and yield to it so much beauty and animation, and almost mingle their waters, form the sources of the Hudson, of many affluents of the Mohawk and the Black river. Here also, are the fountain heads of the Oswegatchie, the Grass, the Raquette and St. Regis rivers, large and important streams, which discharge into the St. Lawrence, and the Saranac, Au Sable and Boquet, which flow into Lake Champlain.
The project of forming, in the connection of these streams and lakes by slight artificial constructions, an inland water communication, designed to open to enter- prise and emigration the solitudes of this wilderness, I shall notice elsewhere.
The Black River canal skirts this territory on the west. The existing and proposed rail roads from Utica and Rome, in a northern direction, traverse its western borders. The Saratoga and Sackets Harbor rail road, now in progress, and which has been fostered by a magnificent bounty of five hundred thousand acres from the state lands, will, it is estimated, penetrate for a distance of one hundred and twenty miles through the heart of an unbroken wilderness. It will thread the mazes of this sequestered tract, along the base of lofty mountains (towering above it thousands of feet), through dense forests and amid the loveliest lakes and rivers. The original contemplated route of this road traverses the south-western section of Essex county, through the rich and important town of Minerva, and approaches within a few miles of the Adirondac works,
339
PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
and will thus render accessible the boundless wealth of that amazing district.
The most effective and decisive work, however, for the development of the entire region, would be created by the extraordinary reconnaissance referred to on another page. This subject I propose to notice elsewhere.
On every side, the slow but constant progress of im- provement and cultivation is invading the wilderness. The pioneer of agriculture is each year occupying the haunts of the hunter, and gradually supplanting him. The valuable town of Greig, in Lewis county, now embrac- ing a population of about nineteen hundred inhabitants, has within comparatively a few years, been carved from the silent forest.
This wilderness is distinguished for the healthiness of its climate. There prevails in the atmosphere, which envelops these mountains, a pureness, an elasticity and vitality that imparts health, and affords an indescribable physical enjoyment in the mechanical process of inspira- tion; the lungs are filled, and perform their functions without effort or labor. In my explorations of the coun- try, I have met with repeated instances of individuals, who had reached their forest homes, in advanced stages of pulmonary affection, in whom the disease had been arrested, and the sufferer restored to comparative health. They uniformly imputed the change to the influence of the atmosphere, and to the soothing and invigorating effect of the peculiar property referred to. No invalid enters these solitudes without experiencing upon his sys- tem this strengthening and renovating influence. The atmosphere can be impregnated by no noxious miasmas, but is poured down from the summits of these stately mountains, fresh and pure, and life giving as it comes from the laboratory of nature.
Parts of the southern section of this territory in Warren and Hamilton counties, particularly where the lofty group of Mt. Seward upheave and dislocate the surface, are high,
340
HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY.
broken and mountainous. With this exception, and the portions of Essex county already described, the altitude of the country is lower than the plains of North Elba, but it still has an elevation which sensibly affects the climate ; far less, however, than has been imputed by an erroneous public opinion. That this severity is not extreme, or such as to repel occupation, may be judged from the fact, that for many years, while the visitors to this region were limited, the hunters and guides were accustomed to procure their supply of potatoes from the spontaneous growth of the vegetable, gathered in the earth, and which had sprung from the peelings left upon the surface the preceding year.
Like every new country, in northern latitudes, which is shrouded by a thick and heavy vegetation, this tract is now far more liable to the effects of cold and frost, than it will be, when the advance of improvement has removed the massive forests, and exposed the earth to the influence of heat and light. The face of this country is represented by those who have thoroughly explored it, to be formed of a series of plains, or high valleys, distinct in their arrangement, and slightly elevated one above the other.
The streams, particularly those which are affluents of the St. Lawrence, flow in a strong, but neither rapid nor violent current, generally between high banks, and through a level and beautiful country. The land bordering upon these streams is chiefly occupied by dense and stately forests, comprehending the most magnificent and valuable evergreen timber, and the choicest varieties of hard wood. These forests are not unfrequently interspersed with wide and beautiful wet prairies, or natural meadows, spreading along the margin of the rivers, and presenting in their luxuriant herbage or native grasses, the appearance of highly cultivated fields. Myriads of deer graze and fatten upon these meadows.
The soil, whether sustaining its towering growth of primitive wood, or revealing the natural meadows, is
341
PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
represented as possessing native fertility and adaptation to agriculture, seldom surpassed by any districts of equal altitude, and in as high parallel of latitude. Such I know, from personal inspection, to be the character of the lands in North Elba. Specimens of soils, from the alluvial flats, upon the Au Sable river, and the loam from the uplands in that town, which were analyzed by Professor Salisbury, indicate the highest degree of native fertility. In some sections of this territory, a white silicious earth predomi- nates, which is evidence of a light and rather sterile soil; other parts of it are, doubtless, rocky and broken; but a large portion of the land is susceptible of useful cultiva- tion, and much more will be found con genial to grass and grazing.
The general face of this region may be inferred from the circumstance, that tourists speak in their description of it, of seeing, while floating upon the remote lakes and rivers, the summits of the Adirondacs, towering above the surrounding plateau, at a distance of thirty, and even fifty miles.
The nearness and facility of access to various markets, which must soon exist, is a most important and obvious advantage, which this country will at an early day possess. When the different public improvements, existing or con- templated, are accomplished, and that result is morally certain, every section of this region will enjoy an easy access to the Hudson, to the marts of the St. Lawrence and to Champlain. But the emigrant to this territory need not place any reliance upon remoter markets, while an infinitude of forge fires illuminate the re- cesses of the Adirondacs, the banks of the Saranac, and the valley of the Au Sable, and the varied other manufacto- ries exist, which are springing into importance along the whole. confines of this wilderness. These immense and increasing consumers will always secure a certain and prompt demand, at the highest prices, for all the charcoal that can be made, for every animal that can be raised upon
342
HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY.
these hills, and every production of agriculture that the earth can yield. Already, as the pioneer reaches the out- line of the wilderness, we see the manufacturer and the lumberer press on his track, requiring the coal he produces in clearing his land, the timber he falls and every article of consumption he produces, at prices often exceeding those of the Atlantic cities. This domestic market will never be exhausted, but must constantly augment.
Large appropriations have been applied by the state, to the improvement of the navigation of several of the streams, which flow from this region, to facilitate the transporta- tion of logs. Many of them are now navigable for this purpose, from the lakes where they rise, to their mouths. The incalculable amount of saw logs, embraced in the wilderness, may by these channels be transported at an insignificant expense, in their direct course to market, to points where they are fabricated into lumber, for exporta- tion. The same spirit has cherished and will continue to foster the constructing of rail roads calculated to develop the affluence of this region. This wise policy of public munificence is calling into practical existence and utility an immense aggregate of property, which has been hitherto inaccessible and valueless. While it will administer to the efforts of private enterprise, and supply new fountains of individual wealth, it will return to the treasury of the state, tenfold, the expenditures, by opening the vast public domain to market and by the immense accession to the business of the public works it must create. Hence, it is manifest, that the labor of the settler, which removes the forest and reveals the earth to cultivation, also prepares the coal for the manufacturer and the timber for transport- ation; and thus, while he is remunerated for his toil, he is enabled to pay for his farm and adapt it to tillage. In addition to the pine, spruce and hemlock timber, which occupies this territory and which may be computed by millions of saw logs, it comprehends a vast amount of excellent cedar, and several varieties of oak, birch and
343
PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
cherry, that attain an immense size, and are in great re- quest by the manufacturer, for choice fabrics, and coal wood, that can be estimated by tens of millions of cords.
Iron ore is known to exist here in large deposits, suffi- cient, probably, for all its requirements ; but if this opinion should prove to be incorrect, aside from many other sources of supply, its most remote sections will soon, by means of the contemplated works, join hands with the exhaustless masses of the Adirondac deposits.
The unrivaled fish, which throng these waters in the utmost profusion, and now afford an article of such ex- quisite luxury, may be made an important and valuable commodity of exportation, when the means of a rapid and certain transportation are established. An immense quantity of venison is every season sent from the wilderness to the southern and eastern cities.
The price of land, in this territory, ranges from one dollar to six dollars the acre.
The wisdom of the development by the state of the resources of this region, and the promoting of its settlement by every liberal and fostering policy, is so apparent and imperative, that its expediency can scarcely be enforced by any argument. Let avenues be opened into it; let the navigation be perfected, and the rivers made more available for the floating of saw logs, and it will soon be colonized by sturdy and energetic emigrants, and the silent and gloomy wilderness will resound with the din of labor and industry. False and deceptive public sentiment has shed a blighting influence over this territory, and created obsta- cles to its occupation, more impracticable than its mountain barriers, or all the impediments with which nature has surrounded it.
MINERAL SPRINGS.
Numerous springs of mineral water occur in Essex county, but a few only are known to possess any high or peculiar medicinal properties. The Adirondac springs,
344
HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY.
consisting of a cluster of four fountains, lying within a small circle, are situated upon premises formerly owned by Mr. Stevenson of Westport. About two years since, the property was purchased by Mr. George W. Spencer, who gave the springs their present appropriate name. They are beautifully situated upon a slope of the Adiron- dacs, about half a mile from the lake, and command an extended view of its course, with a magnificent mountain scenery on both shores, and a landscape formed by a highly cultivated and picturesque country. The site of these springs is about four miles and a half from Port Henry, and the same distance from the village of West- port, and is approached in both directions by excellent roads, through an interesting and beautiful district. Mr. Spencer has erected, at large expense, convenient struc- tures about the fountains. These waters have been known and celebrated in the region during the last forty years, for their singular efficacy in relieving various diseases and affections.
In the year 1852, while acting under my appointment by the State society, I procured a gallon of the water from each of the springs mentioned below, and submitted them to Professor Salisbury, at that time the chemist and geologist of the society. After a careful examination, he returned to me the subjoined result. I may properly remark, that the appearance of the springs and the vici- nity, disclose the presence of minerals in an extraordinary degree. The deposit of a substance that appears to be chiefly magnesia, through which the Cold spring ascends, is about ten feet thick ; and the concretion formed by the water of the Sulphur spring has been opened eighteen feet in depth without reaching the base. These encrusta- tions are very similar to the High Rock spring in Saratoga. This residuum of the waters may be traced along their course several feet, after the discharge from the fountain. In its first stage, before induration, it is about the con- sistence of putty, soft and unctuous, and without grit to the
345
PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
touch. This substance, while soft, has been used con- stantly, and with remarkable success, as an external application in cutaneous affections. The Sulphur spring is characterized by the constant, and often quite active ebullition of a gaseous substance. The following are the analyses of Professor Salisbury :
1 gal. water from Sulphur spring. 16 cubic inches.
1 gal. water from Cold spring.
Sulphuretted hydrogen,
Organic matter,
8.64 grains.
8.16 grains.
Sulphur,
2.88
Lime,
10.32
66
12.88
66
Magnesia,
2.24
66
3.12
Potassa,
1.36
1.20
66
Soda,
1.12
66
0.88
..
Iron ...
1.04
66
1.44
66
Chlorine,
trace
0.48
66
Sulphuric acid,
0.88
66
1.52
66
Phosphoric acid,
0.32
66
2.48
66
Carbonic acid,
1.36
66
1.44
66
Silicie acid,
0.40
66
0.48
66
Total solid matter in one gallon, ... 30.64
66
34.08
66
" One distinguishing character of the Sulphur spring is the large quantity of sulphuretted hydrogen its waters con- tain. A portion of the alkaline basis is also combined with sulphur, forming sulphides.
The water designated in the analysis, as No. 3, was taken from a spring upon the premises of L. Pope in Chesterfield, and No. 6 from a spring in Jay, situated almost within the water line of the Au Sable river. In relation to these waters, Prof. Salisbury remarks : " On removing the cork, I found in No. 3 a mere trace of sulphuretted hydrogen ; in No. 6 no trace of this gas, or carbonic acid gas could be detected. They both contained a very small quantity of a ferruginous sediment. No. 6 has a slightly bituminous odor. No. 3 a slight fetid odor."
346
HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY.
A gallon of water from No. 3 contains 12.16 grains of solid matter, and from No. 6, 6 grains of solid matter. Of this solid matter 100 parts gave of
No. 3.
No. 6.
No. 5.
Organic matter,
31.98
41.32
19.73
Magnesia, ...
23.39
14.64
16.14
Sulphuric acid,
10.13
5.28
23.32
Lime,.
11.03
17.34
4.75
Potassa,
6.01
7.98
20.33
Soda,
3.32
0.27
2.34
Carbonic acid,.
6.40
4.01
3.59
Phosphoric acid,
5.11
5.32
4.18
Chlorine,
1.82
2.31
3.79
Iron,
0.51
1.19
4.18
Silica,
9.23
0.14
0.11
Sulphuretted hydrogen, .
trace
..
...
99.93
99.80
99.86
The spring from which the water marked No. 5 was taken, is situated almost within the shadow of the giant wall of the Indian pass. A fountain of health, suffi- cient to constitute a " watering place," within the pure and invigorating atmosphere of the Adirondacs, and amid scenes where nature reigns in profound seclusion, and in such imposing and terrific grandeur, would possess infi- nite attractions and interest. One gallon of this water gave of solid matter 12.64 grains, and 100 parts of this solid matter gave the preceding analysis. " The analysis shows No. 5 to be a magnesia potassa water. The magne- sia and potassa are probably mostly in the form of sulphates. No. 5 has a slight earthy odor."
The discovery of a spring near Schroon lake has re- cently been announced. The locality is almost as impos- ing and picturesque and even more beautiful than that in Indian pass, and if the properties of the water prove as valuable as is claimed, and the purpose of erecting a hotel is accomplished, I can imagine no resort more delightful or attractive.
1
PART III.
NATURAL HISTORY.
ANIMALS.
Champlain, and the early explorers of the environs of Lake Champlain, allude to the abundance and variety of the game and wild animals found in that region. The reminiscences of the living recall the prevalence in vast numbers of these animals, at their first settlement of the county. Fearful legends are still rife of exposures of the original settlers, and their terrific encounters with the panther, the bear, and wolf.
The moose within a late period has been discovered in the recesses of the interior wilderness. The panther and wolf still prowl in these wilds, but rarely, and by solitary individuals. The small black bear exists in small num- bers among the fastnesses of the Adirondacs, but are sel- dom seen in the more inhabited sections of the county. The bear, wolf and fox, in the early occupation of the county, committed the most destructive depredations upon the flocks of the pioneers. They literally occupied and infested the forest, and by their great prevalence seriously retarded and embarrassed the introduction of sheep. The howling of wolves around the solitary cabins of the settlers, is described as having been most appalling. In the lan- guage of an aged pioneer,1 " the deer, sixty years ago, were more abundant in our fields than sheep." Venison was then the cheapest food of the settler, and at different periods, their almost exclusive dependence. A bear cub was esteemed as delicate and luscious as the fattest lamb.
1 Mr. Leavitt, Chesterfield.
348
HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY.
Deer still abound in the interior solitudes, and are annually destroyed in vast numbers, in the mere wanton and brutal instincts of slaughter. Under the influence of public sen- timent and a determined purpose of enforcing the stringent statutes for the preservation of game, the cruel extinction of both deer and fish, has been in some measure suppressed in this wilderness. Sometimes expelled from their retreats by the attacks of wolves, their ferocious foe, they appear in the older settlements, and in their extreme terror, occa- sionally dash into a village; but only to find man as merciless as the savage beast. Thus, torn and devoured by wolves; chased by dogs, and overtaken when their sharp and tiny hoofs penetrate the crust of snows, and they helplessly flounder in their depths; hunted by torch- light, and pursued in the lakes and ponds of their native wilds, this beautiful, timid and gentle creature, now afford- ing so much beauty and animation to these forests, and such luxury to the table of even our metropolitan epicures, must soon be extirpated, or greatly diminished in their numbers.
The beaver was found in great abundance throughout the region, by the first occupants. They no longer exist, it is believed, in the territory of Essex county. The skele- ton of probably the last patriarch of the race is still preserved. Numerous vestiges exist of their former habitations. The evidences remain throughout the county of their wonderful architectural works, and of the amaz- ing sagacity that approached human intelligence. The skill with which the beaver selected the position of his dam, the untiring industry and great vigor exhibited in prosecuting his work, the exactness of its capacity to the required object, and the great beauty of its structure, excite the deepest admiration and wonder. The water obstructed by these dams flowed over extensive flats, destroying the trees and vegetation which had flourished upon them. These were carefully removed by the beaver, as they decayed, leaving the surface as clear and unobstructed as if the work had been accomplished by the nicest labor
349
NATURAL HISTORY.
of human industry. These clearings were ultimately occupied by a spontaneous growth of natural grasses. The beaver meadows of the county, formed by this pro- cess, were of incalculable benefit to the early settlers, preparing for many of them in advance, an abundant sup- ply of excellent fodder.
The hunter who penetrated deeply into the solitudes, beyond the western limits of this county, until recently found the moose in considerable abundance.1 Individuals occasionally appeared among the nearer Adirondacs. A solitary bull or a cow and calf, usually selects in autumn a hill or spur of a mountain, where abounds the mountain ash and striped maple, his choicest food. Here he hiber- nates in what the hunter terms his yard. As the snows. deepen, he industriously keeps open the paths leading to the various sections of his domain. He uniformly traverses the same route, and thus preserves a beaten track in the deepest snows of winter. In this seclusion he passes the season, feeding upon the tender branches of his favorite. shrubs, until spring returns, and the voice of nature invokes him to seek new companions. During the sum- mer they frequent the vicinity of ponds and marshes, feed- ing upon aquatic plants. The roots of the pond lily they greedily devour.
The pursuit of the moose is among the most animating. and attractive sports of the huntsman. The senses of this: animal are supposed to be peculiarly acute. He discovers- afar off the approach of danger, and breaks from his covert and flies with incredible celerity. His stately horns thrown back upon his shoulders, his nose projecting, and with the gait and action of a fast trotting horse, he dashes amid the forest, over mountains and through morasses, with a speed that defies pursuit, unless the crust of snow yields to his enormous bulk, when he is readily overtaken. Although naturally a timid animal, he then turns at bay, and with immense power and indomitable courage faces his foes, and
1 A. Ralph.
350
HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY.
woe betide the hunter or dog who falls within the reach of his horns, or the trampling of his hoofs. He is then the very symbol of savage ferocity. His aspect is terrific ; his eyes glare, his mane erect, every hair, long and protruding, seems to expand and become animate. His defiant roar resounds among the mountains ; he defends himself to the last throe with unyielding energy. The meat of the moose is considered a choice and rare delicacy.
The fox and the muskrat are abundant, and, with the minx and martin, are yet pursued for their pelages. The lynx is occasionally found. The squirrel, in most of its varieties, exist in great numbers. Small colonies of the flying squirrel are found in some localities. Its singular construc- tion and great beauty render it an object of much interest. A peculiar incapacity alike for defense and escape, makes it the victim of innumerable enemies. A remarkable fact in natural history is observed in relation to these animals, and particularly of the common red squirrel. A district of country, which has been nearly exempt from their pre- sence, is suddenly thronged by innumerable multitudes. Every tree and bush and fence seems alive with them, until they at once and as mysteriously disappear. This circumstance affords undoubted evidence of the migration of the squirrel, but to what extent the habit prevails is unknown. Popular opinion assumes, that they traverse Lake Champlain in these progresses. The autumn of 1851 afforded one of these periodical invasions of Essex county. It is well authenticated, that the red squirrel was con- stantly seen in the widest parts of the lake, far out from land, swimming towards the shore, as if familiar with the service; their heads above water, and their bushy tails erect and expanded, and apparently spread to the breeze. Reaching land, they stopped for a moment, and relieving their active and vigorous little bodies from the water, by an energetic shake or two, they bounded into the woods, as light and free as if they had made no extraordinary effort.
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