USA > New York > Essex County > The military and civil history of the county of Essex, New York : and a general survey of its physical geography, its mines and minerals, and industrial pursuits, embracing an account of the northern wilderness > Part 40
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I am only able to refer, among the industrial pursuits of this district, to a large work situated on Mill creek, east of Schroon lake, and owned by Messrs. Frazier, Major & Co., of New York, which is reported to consume fifteen hundred cords of bark yearly. Numerous and very extensive tanneries are located in the northern see-
476
HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY.
tions of Warren county, which are largely supplied with bark from Essex county.
The Olmsteadville Tannery, in the town of Minerva, large and valuable works, was destroyed by fire in the year 1867. A part of the structures are still standing, and now owned by Messrs. Frazier, Major & Co. Its corre- spondent estimates the bark formerly consumed by this tannery, at five thousand cords per annum. The materials intended for the Olmsteadville works, is now transported to the works of the same proprietors at Pottersville, Warren county. The same authority states that the various tan- neries owned by this company, requires the bark afforded by twenty thousand logs yearly.
A competent authority computes the bark used in other tanneries at from ten thousand to fifteen thousand cords annually, and that the process of peeling, prepares from one hundred thousand to one hundred and fifty thousand logs for the mills at Glen's Falls, Sandy Hill and Fort Edward.1
Ship yards. The large number of vessels of various descrip- tions employed in the navigation of Lake Champlain, requires the labors of numerous ship yards, for their con- struction and repairing. Of these, Essex county has its proportion. This business at one time was carried on at Willsboro' to a considerable extent, the estuary of the Boquet presenting a favorable location for the purpose. In the village of Essex, Hoskins, Ross & Co., have esta- blished a commodious yard for boat building and repairing, with which is connected a steam saw mill, and shingle planing mill, with a grinding attachment and carriage factory.2 Since the first occupation by France, Ticon- deroga has been a conspicuous point at which boats and vessels navigating the lake have been built and equipped. To provide materials for this purpose, was a prominent motive, for the erection by the French, of the saw mills at the falls. The numerous flotillas which traversed the lakes at different periods, bearing hostile armies, were largely
1 Mr. John Roth. 2 Mr. John Ross.
477
INDUSTRIAL PROGRESS AND RESOURCES.
constructed at Ticonderoga. Amherst paused here, while awaiting the building and preparation of a fleet for the invasion of Canada. The fleet of Arnold, with which he combated Carleton, was chiefly constructed at this point. Since the opening of the Champlain canal, boat building has been the prominent business occupation of Ticonderoga. Mr. Henry Cassey owns a ship yard at the Lower falls, where a large number of first class canal boats are built yearly. Two other yards in the town are carrying on a regular business, in this industry. During the last ten years an average of ten boats, of one hundred tons burthen each, have been built in these yards annually.1 Another large ship yard is in operation at Crown Point.
AGRICULTURE.
In describing the topographical features and arrange- ment of this county, in the preceding pages, I have sufficiently noticed its agricultural capabilities, and the soil and climate of its various districts. The same transi- tions in its agricultural progress have marked every section of this county. The natural fertility of the soil, when first opened to cultivation, yielded abundant harvests; injudi- cious tillage gradually exhausted its productive elements ; the cause which tended to these results ceased; new interests in the management of the land were excited, and a general improvement in the farms was produced by an ameliorated system of husbandry. The county still ex- hibits these various phases of its agriculture. Some farms are just emerging from the primeval wilderness; some are impoverished and exhausted ; others are commencing the process of renovation ; while many others have attained a degree of improved culture and fertility, scarcely exceeded by any portion of the state.
1 Alfred Reed. H. G. Burleigh & Bro.
478
HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY.
The lumber business in this as in every region, appro- priate to its pursuit, captivated the mind of the pioneer, and allures him from other occupations. The winter was de- voted to this employment. Every product of the farm calculated to return fertilizing elements to sustain and pro- mote its productiveness, was borne into the forests and there consumed. At the approach of spring, the settler returned to his farm, himself and his team, prostrated by the severe labors of the winter, and illy prepared to perform the recurring duties which pressed upon him. He con- ducts his farming operations imperfectly and without skill. He has no deposits of manure to apply to his wasting soil. The earth, by constant tillage, without renovation, becomes impoverished. Each succeeding year witnesses a decrease in the harvest. The land, exhausted by this improvident management, is denounced worthless in its soil, and with- out fertility, and abandoned to briers and desolation, or is sacrificed to some shrewd purchaser, and its owner emi- grates to new scenes, to pass through the same alterations. In this stage of society, agriculture is the secondary and subordinate occupation.
The lumbering business closed, the farmer resumes his first duties, and yields to the land the labor and care re- quired for its successful cultivation. In a manufacturing district, and such is preeminently Essex county, the team- ing upon the road, which abstracts so much of the time of the farmer, and the fertilizing riches of the farm, from this land, exercises a similar, although far less disastrous effect, upon its agricultural prosperity. Other causes of the slow progress in the agricultural improvement of this county are suggested by an intelligent correspondent,1 in reference to a single town but applicable to all. "Conflicting titles have cast a shade over some large tracts," and in others " much of the land has been occupied under contracts, in their terms liable to constant forfeiture." Tenures of pro-
1 C. Fenton, Esq.
479
INDUSTRIAL PROGRESS AND RESOURCES.
perty so frail and contingent in every region, paralyze the efforts of industry and enterprise. .
The early settlers relied chiefly for pasturage and winter fodder upon the wild grasses and herbage, bountifully supplied by the beaver meadows, the marshes and glades of the forests. The indigenous grasses of this region are very numerous, and many of them highly nutritious and valuable. Several varieties of the ferns, brakes and rushes afford excellent hay, particularly for sheep. The instincts of the deer indicate to the pioneer the most useful of these resources.
I hesitate to decide, whether I am authorized in classing the white clover, trifolium repens, with the indigenous plants of this region. It is certain that it soon appears, by a spontaneous growth in every opening of the forest, and upon soils of sand and gravel formation. Where gypsum has been applied, or sheep have ranged, it is immediately introduced, forming a massive sward, which constitutes a most important basis for future tillage. The presence of a white clover turf uniformly secures on sandy soils an excel- lent corn crop with an application of plaster.
Wheat. For a series of years succeeding the first occupa- tion of the county, wheat was the predominant crop, particularly in that section of it which lies upon Lake Champlain. The average yield on new land was about twenty-five bushels to the acre. This culture gradually declined, under the effects of a change of seasons, the exhaustion of the quality of the soil adapted to the produc- tion of wheat, and the ultimate infliction of the wevil and rust. It was virtually abandoned, until the introduction of the Black Sea wheat, which gave it a new and successful impulse. The tea wheat and various other spring varieties have been the successive favorites, while the general cul- ture of wheat has been largely extended. Winter wheat is now largely cultivated.
Rye, in several towns of Essex county, was formerly the predominant crop. It is now very generally abandoned as a prominent cercal except upon light and gravelly soils.
480
HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY.
Rye is seldom used as an article of human aliment, and in the absence of distilleries, is chiefly cultivated for ani- mal food. The straw is esteemed valuable for that pur- pose, and when cut is peculiarly esteemed for horse fodder combined with heavy grain.
Oats. The aggregate produced in Essex county is very large. It is cultivated in every description of soil and in every section of the county. The heaviest crops I have examined were raised in the new openings of the forests, upon the slopes of the Adirondacs. The cultivation of oats, in the elevated town of Newcomb has been singularly successful.
Peas are cultivated to some extent, and are highly es- teemed as a renovating and subduing crop, and are espe- cially efficient and useful, in the extirpation of weeds and bushes upon new lands. Peas are regarded as a valuable substitute for corn in making pork.
Barley. The culture of this grain has largely increased in the county and with favorable results.
Beans were formerly raised only in connection with corn, but recently the great demand for the article, at en- hanced prices, has largely stimulated its more extended cultivation.
Buckwheat and Indian wheat, especially the former, are largely cultivated in the county, although many farmers deprecate the husbandry as injudicious and improvident. Both are used extensively for hog feeding, ground or boiled. Buckwheat, floured at the local mills, is exported in a large amount, to the eastern and southern markets.
Potato. This crop has attained great prominence in the agriculture of the county. The prevalence of the dis- ease, which impaired and often nearly suspended the culti- vation of the potato, produced an entire change in the tillage connected with it. Heavy, damp and highly manured lands, which once were deemed indispensable to the successful cultivation of the potato, have been aban- doned, and light gravelly sandy soils have been substituted. Green unfermented manures are considered unsafe, and
481
INDUSTRIAL PROGRESS AND RESOURCES.
charcoal, lime, ashes, plaster and special fertilizers, are now generally in use. The potatoes produced in this district are of the choicest quality. Of late they have been less exported than some years ago, when from a single wharf ten thousand bushels were shipped in a season. In the interior of the county, the numerous starch factories create a certain and generally remunerative market for all this crop the industry of the farmer can produce.
Corn. This crop may be pronounced the agricultural staple of Essex county and the basis of the rotation and renovating system of its husbandry. The stalks of corn are highly valued as a fodder for neat cattle, and when fed to milch cows, from their succulent qualities if carefully preserved, are considered by most farmers superior to hay. Carrots, Beets and Turnips are largely cultivated and extensively used in feeding horses, neat cattle and swine.
Flax is seldom cultivated in the county. Only four acres are returned in the census of 1865, as appropriated to the crop, and not a single acre of hemp.
Hay. This crop is of the first importance, and always commands the highest prices. The production of hay, how- ever, in the country, falls immensely below the consump- tion. Large quantities of pressed hay is annually imported from Washington county, Vermont and Canada.
STOCK.
Numerous dairies exist in the county, and some of them of a superior character, and embracing excellent cows ; most of these possess an infusion of pure blood; but few animals are found in the district exclusively of thorough- bred stock.
It is apparent, from the table of census returns, that the wool growing interest of Essex county has attained very considerable importance. The climate, the physical formation, the soil and position of this region will combine to render this territory one of the most eligible and pro- sperous wool growing districts of the state.
31
482
HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY.
In no department of its husbandry has this county exhibited more decided progress, than in the quality and character of its stock. I cannot ascertain that a thorough bred animal was owned in the country, until about the year 1847. Grades of Teeswater and Durham had been intro- dnced probably before that period. It now contains indi- viduals of nearly every breed, that may almost maintain an equal competition with the stock of any section of the state. A race of horses, almost indigenous to its soil, is dis- seminated through the county, which combine properties of rare excellence. The high reputation of the Black Hawk horses has become widely diffused, and each year adds to their consideration. In no district have they been more extensively bred, or attained greater perfection than in this region.
FRUIT.
The Champlain valley is preeminently adapted, in soil and climate, to the production of most varieties of the apple. The list of apples cultivated in this district is very nume- rous, and the quality generally of the highest excellence.
Many old orchards still exist, which were planted at the first settlement of the country. The pioneer, usually, brought with his household goods, the bag of apple seeds from his New England home, and the young orchard was among the earliest evidences of improvement and civiliza- tion. The perversion of this rich bounty of providence, for a period, created a prejudice, which led to the neglect of its culture.
A few years ago, five thousand engrafted apple trees were planted in a single season in the town of Crown Point.
Other towns have been equally conspicuous in this enter- prise. Large fields are devoted to the apple culture, and in all the eastern towns, young trees not yet in bearing occupy extensive areas and impart to the territory a pleasant aspect of thrift and improvement. In Willsboro' and Essex, it seems as if the whole region would soon be converted into one vast orchard. The former town alone, it is estimated, exported in the autumn of '68, between four and five thou-
483
INDUSTRIAL PROGRESS AND RESOURCES.
sand barrels of apples, of which fourteen or fifteen hundred barrels were selected grafts.1 Engrafted trees are now chiefly cultivated. The inferior apples not adapted to market, are dried, or used for the feed of animals, and a very small portion is manufactured into cider. A large quantity of this kind of fruit are purchased and transported by bateau loads into Canada.
Plums are cultivated in numerous varieties and of great excellence, and are largely exported. The crop is fre- quently impaired and often destroyed by the ravages of the circulio. This pestilent insect infests, also, the cherry. Many varieties of the pear are now cultivated successfully and exported to considerable extent.
Much attention is given to the grape culture, and em- bracing the more hardy variety, with favorable results. The original vine of the Adirondac grape was disco- vered beneath a cliff of the mountain, at Port Henry upon the grounds of Mr. J. G. Weatherbee. Whether a native growth or a seedling of the Isabella, is, I think, un- determined, but propagated by the skill and enterprise of Mr. J. W. Bailey of Plattsburg, it has attained celebrity as a fruit and proved a source of large income to the pro- prietors. Other varieties of the native grape might by care and skill be successfully cultivated. The blue or huckleberry appears in great profusion upon new clearings on light soils, and particularly those which have been burnt over. The product of fruit is often immense, and its picking, boxing and transportation, furnish employ- ment to crowds of laborers of every age and sex, through a long term in the summer and autumn. This humble occupation diffuses through the interior of the county, no inconsiderable sums of money.
PUBLIC IMPROVEMENTS.
Several projects of public improvement which have been contemplated or now in agitation, demand a brief notice.
1 Rev. A. D. Barber.
484
HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY.
The Internal Navigation. Almost a quarter of a century ago, the plan was agitated of uniting the lakes and rivers of the interior wilderness, and by artificial agency, to form an extended inland navigation. The progress of rail roads, and their approach to that region - circum- stances which did not enter into the imaginings of the projectors of this improvement- may render it neither expedient nor practicable, but the facts are of interest, and worthy of historical commemoration.
The prominent idea in this scheme, originally contem- plated an artificial communication between Port Kent, on Lake Champlain, and Booneville, on the Black river canal. The system of lakes in the interior, which are united by a series of rivers, indicate the course, and were designed to form the route of this improvement. It appears from the report of Professor F. N. Benedict, that nature has formed a practicable route for this improvement, in the direct line from Purmort's rapids, a point on the Saranac river, on the line between Essex and Clinton counties, to the Moose river, twenty-one miles from Booneville, with which the contemplated navigation must be connected by a canal or rail road. This route, starting from Purmort's rapids, passes through the county of Essex, by the Sara- nac; along the lower and upper Saranac lakes; the Raquette river, Long, Forked and Raquette lakes, and the intervening streams, to the series of Moose river lakes, and thence down that stream to the western termi- nation. This track may readily be traced on the very accurate maps of this region recently published.
The following impressive facts are established by these investigations. There exists, Professor Benedict states, in this direct course, a navigation competent to steamers, of fifty-six miles, and by small boats of fifty-five miles further. A distance only of seven and one-fourth miles occurs along this route, partially or entirely interrupted by obstructions which will require removing, to complete the navigation the whole line of one hundred and eighteen miles. The lateral navigation, branching from this main
485
INDUSTRIAL PROGRESS AND RESOURCES.
trunk, formed by the rivers and lakes, which are mingled with those above enumerated, affords an additional com- munication, navigable by steamers, of thirty-three miles, and by small boats of ten tons burthen, of thirty-eight miles more, with an intervening obstruction of only one- half mile. The result shows the existence, in that seques- tered wilderness, of a navigation adapted to steam boats of eighty-nine miles, and to small boats, of ninety-three miles, which is obstructed by natural impediments inter- posing in different localities, and embracing in the aggre- gate, the trifling distance of seven and three-quarters miles. The total length of the proposed improvement is one hundred and ninety miles. The obstacles which exist chiefly occur in low and marshy ground, and may be readily surmounted. Mr. Benedict exhibits minute calculations, in which he estimates the expense of improv- ing the whole one hundred and ninety miles, which embraces the lateral branches, at $312,950; with an aver- age cost per mile of $1,611. The cost of opening the direct route, $292,950; at an average expense per mile of $2,482.
This estimate contemplates merely an improvement of the existing navigation, and surmounting the impedi- ments which occur along the seven and three-quarters miles.
The lateral branches of this navigation, included in the survey of Prof. Benedict, would penetrate deeply towards the west into the forest of St. Lawrence, Hamilton and Franklin counties, and on the eastward along the western limits of Essex, almost touching the vast iron masses of the Adirondacs, and opening their resources to the wants and enterprise of the coal mines of the west. In reference to this navigation, he says : " Extensive lines of small boat navigation, with very few and short interruptions, traverse all considerable sections of the surface. The aggregate extent of these lines is probably no less than three hundred miles, all of which could be rendered navigable for boats of fifty tons burthen at comparatively trifling expense.
486
HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY.
RAIL ROADS.
I elsewhere speak of the infinite importance to the utiliz- ing of the vast undeveloped wealth of Essex county that rail roads should penetrate this secluded section of the state. I have also adverted to the road now in progress, which was intended to traverse the south-western part of the county, and to local train ways in the towns of Moriah and Westport. The former of these roads, which is now believed to be in vigorous prosecution, or a branch has been authorized by special statutes to pass up the valley of the Schroon and to unite with some other road, by which it may form a connection with the St. Lawrence. Partial surveys, in accordance with this privilege, have been already made.
Several organizations at different periods have been formed, with the purpose of accomplishing the great pub- lic and commercial necessity I have mentioned, but with results wholly unsatisfactory. A more recent project, conducted by the White Hall and Plattsburg Rail Road Company, and aided to a small extent by a state donative, promises a more certain and practical issue. A space of twenty miles from Plattsburg to a locality on the Au Sable known as the Point of Rocks, within three miles of Au Sable Forks, has been completed upon which trains are now running. Another section of this road south of Port Henry and about nine miles in length is nearly finished. In the intermediate distance it is understood the route is surveyed and located. The Hon. John Ham- mond is president of this company. Another company has been organized under the name of Northern Air Line Rail Road Company, with Silas Arnold, Esq., president, which proposes to construct a line, that shall connect with the former in Peru or Plattsburg at the north, and in Westport or Moriah at the south.
487
INDUSTRIAL PROGRESS AND RESOURCES.
PLANK ROADS.
A number of these works were constructed some years ago in various parts of the county. Although they have been immensely valuable and productive to the transport- ing business of the region, these roads have not, from their perishable nature, under the abrasion of heavy teams, proved remunerative financial investments by the direct returns of dividends. Many of the roads have been aban- doned, and none, I think, yields more than sufficient to sus- tain the necessary repairs.
COMMERCE.
The commerce of Lake Champlain is now large and every year augments. The lumber, the ore, and iron fa- brics of the north, combined with the grain and flour of the west, and the coal and merchandise from the south constitute a vast trade. To their domestic resources may be added the productions of Canada, which seek a market by this avenue, and the goods chiefly bonded that pass into the dominion from American ports, and much of which is returned under fresh entries, all swelling this immense internal commerce. Numerous Canadian vessels, designed for the navigation of the St. Lawrence, and readily distin- guishable from American craft by their peculiar structure and appearance, reach the waters of Champlain by the Chamblee canal. Vessels from the upper lakes are occa- sionally observed in our harbors. A large class of the population contiguous to the lake is connected with its navigation. This occupation forms an admirable school for the acquisition of nautical skill and experience, and creates a bold and expert body of mariners. If the public exigencies shall again demand a national fleet upon Cham- plain, her own marine would promptly supply daring and efficient crews. The following tabular statement presents a view of this commerce and the sailors engaged in it :
4
488
HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY.
Statement of the Number, Tonnage and Crews of Vessels navi- gating Lake Champlain on the 20th of June, 1868.
Number.
Tonnage.
Crews.
Steamers, ships, and canal boats, Dis-
trict of Champlain,
672
43,512
1,800
Vermont,
34
4,847
300
Canadian vessels,
165
13,656
753
American vessels from other districts (estimated),
150
12,350
450
Total,.
1,021
73,865 1
1 I have received the above from the kindness of Hon. Jacob Parmerter, collector of the Champlain district.
APPENDIXES.
-
APPENDIX A.
LETTER FROM GENERAL WEBB TO COLONEL MUNROE.
Fort Edward, August 4th, 12 at noon.
SIR: I am directed by General Webb to acknowledge the re- ceipt of three of your letters bearing date nine o'clock yesterday morning and one about six in the evening by the rangers which are the only men that have got in here, except two yesterday morning with your first, acquainting him that the enemy were in sight. He has ordered me to acquaint you that he does not think it pru- dent (as you know his strength at this place) to attempt a junction or to assist you, till reinforced by the militia of the colonies, for the immediate march, of which, repeated expresses have been sent. One of our scouts brought in a Canadian prisoner last night from the investing party, which is very large, and have possessed all the grounds five miles on this side of Fort William Henry. The num- ber of the enemy is very considerable the prisoners say, eleven thousand, and have a large train of artillery with mortars, and were to open their batteries this day.
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