Historical collections of Ohio in two volumes, an encyclopedia of the state, Volume I, Part 148

Author: Howe, Henry, 1816-1893
Publication date: 1907
Publisher: Cincinnati : Published by the state of Ohio
Number of Pages: 1006

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LYNCHBURGH is 11 miles northwest of Hillsborough, on the C. W. & B. Rail- road. Churches : 1 Methodist Episcopal, and 1 Christian. Bank : Lynchburgh, Isma Troth, president ; H. L. Glenn, cashier. Manufactures an ! Employees : Freiburg & Workum, whiskies, 60; E. B. Prythero, flour, etc., 2 .- State Report, 1887. Population in 1880, 664. School censns, 1888, 236; J. M. Holiday, superintendent of schools.

SINKING SPRINGS is 14 miles southeast of Hillsborough. It has 1 Methodist Episcopal church. Population, 197.

NEW PETERSBURGH is 10 miles northeast of Hillsborough. It has 1 Presby- terian and 1 Methodist Episcopal church. Population, 227.

HOCKING.

HOCKING COUNTY was formed March 1, 1818, from Ross, Athens and Fair- field. The land is generally hilly and broken, but along the main streams level and fertile.

Area about 400 square miles. In 1887 the acres cultivated were 49,087; in pasture, 88,976 ; woodland, 49,726 ; lying waste, 2,316; produced in wheat, 323,884 bushels ; rye, 2,667; buckwheat, 669; oats, 47,195; barley, 792; corn, 303,707 ; meadow hay, 11,504 tons ; clover hay, 848; potatoes, 24,083 bushels ; tobacco, 110 pounds; butter, 293,822; cheese, 150; sorghum, 4,244 gallons ; maple syrup, 928 ; honey, 2,550 pounds ; eggs, 267,750 dozen ; grapes, 6,865 pounds; wine, 55 gallons; sweet potatoes, 1,729 bushels; apples, 12,027; peaches, 2,971 ; pears, 202; wool, 199,072 pounds; milch cows owned, 3,487. Tons of coal mined, 853,063, being exceeded only by Perry, Jackson and Athens counties. School census, 1888, 7,982; teachers, 152. Miles of railroad track, 80.

TOWNSHIPS AND CENSUS.

1840.

1880.

TOWNSHIPS AND CENSUS.

1840.

1880.

Benton,

448

1,628

Perry,

1,995

Falls,

1,625

5,195

Salt Creek,

821

1,486

Good Hope,

469

1,083

Starr,

622

1,411

Greene,

1,189

2,070

Swan,

759

Jackson,

472

Ward,

2,272

Laurel,

836

1,292

Washington,

1,124

1,268

Marion,

1,370

1,426

AMERIC HOUSE

inwien by Henry Howe in 1846.

MAIN STREET, LOGAN.

---

MÜSSENECO N.Y.

Martin Bros., Photo., January, 1891.

MAIN STREET, LOGAN.

927

HOCKING COUNTY.

Population of Hocking in 1820, 2,080; 1830, 4,008; 1840, 9,735; 1860, 17,057 ; 1880, 21,126, of whom 18,459 were born in Ohio, 631 in Pennsyl- vania, 430 Virginia, 114 Kentucky, 96 New York, 59 Indiana, 423 German Empire, 198 Ireland, 129 England and Wales, 37 Scotland, 18 France and 13 British America. Census of 1890, 22,658.

The name of this county is a contraction of that of the river Hoekhocking, which flows through it. Hock-hock-ing, in the language of the Delaware Indians, signifies a bottle : the Shawnees have it, Wea-tha-kagh-qua sepe, i. e., bottle river. John White, in the American Pioneer, says : "About six or seven miles northwest of Lancaster there is a fall in the Hockhoeking, of about twenty feet : above the fall, for a short distance, the creek is very narrow and straight, forming a neck, while at the falls it suddenly widens on each side and swells into the appearance of the body of a bottle. The whole, when seen from above, appears exactly in the shape of a bottle, and from this fact the Indians called the creek Hock- hocking."

This tract of country once belonged to the Wyandots, and a considerable town of that tribe, situated at the confluence of a small stream with the river, one mile below Logan, gives the name Oldtown to the creek. The abundance of bears, deer, elks, and occasionally buffaloes, with which the hills and valleys were stored, together with the river fishing, must have made this a desirable residence. About five miles southeast of Logan are two mounds, of the usual conical form, about sixty feet in diameter at the base, erected entirely from stones, evidently brought from a great distance to their present location.

For the annexed historical sketch of the county we are indebted to a resident.

Early in the spring of 1798 several fami- lies from different places, passing through the territory of the Ohio Company, settled at various points on the river, some of whou remained, while others again started in pur- suit of "the far west." The first actual settler in the county was Christian Westen- haver, from near Hagerstown, Md., of Ger- man extraction, a good. practical farmer and an honest man, who died in 1829, full of years, and leaving a numerous race of de- seendants. In the same spring came the Brians, the Pences and the Franciscos, from Western Virginia, men renowned for feats of daring prowess in hunting the bear, an ani- mal at that time extremely numerous. As an example of the privations of pioneer life, when Mr. Westenhaver ascended the river with his family, a sack of corn-meal consti- tuted no mean part of his treasures. By the accidental upsetting of his canoe, this un- fortunately became wet, and consequently blue and mouldy. Nevertheless it was kept, and only on special occasions served out with their bountiful supply of bears' meat, venison and turkeys, until the approaching autumn yielded them potatoes and roasting ears, which they enjoyed with a gusto that epi- cures might well envy. And when fall gave the settlers a rich harvest of Indian corn, in order to reduce it to meal they had to choose between the hominy mortar, or a toilsome Journey of nearly thirty miles over an Indian

trace to the mill. Notwithstanding these drawbacks, there is but little doubt that for many years there was more enjoyment of real life than ordinarily falls to a more artificial state of society. True, though generally united, disputes would sometimes arise, and when other modes of settlement were un- availing, the last resort, a duel, decided all. But in this no "Colt's revolver " was put in requisition, but the pugilistie ring was effect- ual. Here the victor's wounded honor was fully satisfied, and a treat of "old Mononga- hela" (rye whiskey) by the vanquished re- stored perfect good feelings among all parties. As to deciding disputes by law, it was almost unthought of. It is true, there were some few men yeleped justices of the peace, gen- erally selected for strong natural sense, who admirably answered all the purposes of their election. One, a very worthy old gen- tleman, being present at what he considered an unlawful demonstration, commanded the peace, which command not being heeded, he immediately threw off his "warmus," rolled up his sleeves. and shouted, "Boys ! I'll be - if you shan't keep the peace," which awful display of magisterial power instantly dispersed the terror-stricken multitude. This state of things continued with slow but al- most imperceptible alterations until 1818, when the number of inhabitants, and their advance in civilization, obtained the organi- zation of the county.

'The warmus above spoken of was a working garment, similar in appearance to a " roundabout," and having been made of red flannel was elastic and easy to the wearer. It was not known, we think, to any extent outside of Pennsylvania and

928

HOCKING COUNTY.

her emigrants, and we think originated with the Germans. In our original tour over the State, in 1846, when we saw a large number of lobster-back people on the farms or about the village taverns, we always knew that region had been set- tled by Pennsylvania Germans.

Logan in 1846 .- Logan, the county-seat, is on the Hockhocking river and canal, one mile below the great fall of the Hockhocking river, 47 miles southeast of Columbus, 18 below Lancaster, and 38 miles east of Chillicothe. It was laid out about the year 1816, and contains 4 stores, 1 Presbyterian, and 1 Methodist church, and about 600 inhabitants. The view, taken near the American hotel, shows in the centre the court-house, an expensive and substantial structure, and on the extreme right the printing-office .- Old Edition.

Logan was platted by Gov. Worthington. The water-power of the Hocking at the falls was utilized by him, to the extent of a saw-mill and a couple of corn- burrs. In 1825 Logan claimed a population of 250. The place did not get a start until about 1840, from the opening of the Hocking canal in 1838, which furnished an outlet for the produce of the valley. In 1839 the town was incor- porated : C. W. James was the first mayor.

LOGAN, the county-seat of Hocking, is on the C. H. V. & T. Railroad, and on the Hocking river and canal (a branch of the Ohio canal), 50 miles southeast of Columbus. It is located on the edge of the Hocking coal and iron region on the east and south, and close to a rich agricultural region on the west and north.

County Officers, 1888 : Auditor, William M. Bowen; Clerk, D. H. Lappen ;.. Commissioners, Henry Trimmer, John T. Nntter, George Marks; Coroner, Geo. G. Gage; Infirmary Directors, Philip Hansel, Andrew Wright, Isaac Mathias ; Probate Judge, William T. Acker; Prosecuting Attorney, Virgil C. Lowry ; Recorder, David M. O'Hare; Sheriff, John Gallagher; Surveyor, James W. Davis; Treasurers, John Notestone, Benjamin H. Allen. City Officers : A. Steiman, Mayor ; George G. Gage, Clerk ; W. P. Price, Solicitor ; Andrew Hall, Jr., Treasurer ; Edward Juergensmeier, Commissioner; Geo. Deishley, Marshal. Newspapers : Hocking Sentinel, Democratic, Lewis Green, editor and publisher ; Republican Gazette, Republican, F. S. Pursell, editor ; Ohio Democrat, Demo- cratic, A. H. Wilson, editor ; G. W. Brehm, proprietor. Churches : 1 Catholic, 2 Lutheran, 2 Methodist, 1 Presbyterian. Banks : First Bank of Logan, John Walker, president ; Chas. E. Bowen, cashier ; People's, L. A. Culver, president ; R. D. Culver, cashier.

Manufactures and Employees .- Frank Kessler, doors, sash, etc., 6 ; Reynes & Wellman, flour, etc., 9; The Logan Woollen Mills, blankets, etc., 10; The Logan Manufacturing Co., furniture, etc., 54; C. H. V. & T. Railroad Shops, railroad repairs, 45 ; Motherwell Iron and Steel Co., bridges, etc., 83 .- State Report, 1888. Population in 1880, 2,666. School census, 1888, 1,125. Capital invested in in- dustrial establishments, $187,500. Value of annual product, $323,000 .- Labor Statistics, 1887. U. S. Census, 1890, 3,119.

The wild scenery in the western part of the county was first brought to general notice, in "Silliman's Journal of Science," by Dr. S. P. Hildreth, who was on the first geological survey of Ohio in 1837. His account, as given in our first edition, is here repeated :

One of the favorite descents of the Indians was down the waters of Queer creek, a tribu- tary of Salt creek, and opened a direct course to their town of old Chillicothe. It is a wild, romantic ravine, in which the stream has cut a passage, for several miles in extent, through the solid rock, forming mural cliffs, now more than one hundred and twenty feet in height. They are also full of caverns and grottos, clothed with dark evergreens of the liemlock and cedar. Near the outlet of this rocky and

narrow valley there stood, a few years since, a large beech tree, on which was engraven, in legible characters, " This is the road to hell, 1782." These words were probably traced by some unfortunate prisoner then on his way to the old Indian town of Chillicothe.

This whole region is full of interesting scenery, and affords some of the most wild and picturesque views of any other of equal extent in the State of Ohio.

It was one of the best hunting grounds for

929

HOCKING COUNTY.

the bear ; as its numerous grottos and cav- erns afforded them the finest retreats for their winter quarters. These caverns were also valuable on another account, as furnish- ing vast beds of nitrous earth, from which the old hunters, in time of peace, extracted large quantities of saltpetre for the manufac- ture of gunpowder, at which art some of them were great proficients. One of these grottos, well known to the inhabitants of the vicinity by the name of the "Ash Cave," contains a large heap of ashes piled up by the side of the rock which forms one of its boun- daries. It has been estimated, by different persons, to contain several thousand bushels. The writer visited this grotto in 1837, and should say there was at that time not less than three or four hundred bushels of clean ashes, as dry and free from moisture as they were on the day they were burned. Whether they are the refuse of the old saltpetre- makers, or were piled up there in the course of ages, by some of the aborigines who made these eaverns their dwelling-places, remains as yet a subject for conjecture.

These ravines and grottos have all been formed in the out-cropping edges of the sand- stone and conglomerate rocks which underlie the coal fields of Ohio, by the wasting action of the weather, and attrition of running water. The process is yet going on in several streams on the southwest side of Hocking

county, where the water has a descent of thirty, forty or even fifty fcet at a single pitch, and a fall of eighty or a hundred in a few rods. The falls of the Cuyahoga and the Hockhocking are cut in the same geologi- cal formation. The water, in some of these branches, is of sufficient volume to turn the machinery of a grist or saw-mill, and being lined and overhung with the graceful foliage of the evergreen hemlock, furnishes some of the wildest and most beautiful scenery. This is especially so at the "Cedar Falls," and "the Falls of Black Jack." The country is at present but partially settled, but when good roads are opened and convenient inns established, no portion of Ohio can afford a richer treat for the lovers of wild and pictu- resque views.

There is a tradition among the credulous settlers of this retired spot, that lead ore was found here and worked by the Indians ; and many a weary day has been spent in its fruit- less search among the cliffs and grottos which line all the streams of this region. They often find ashes and heaps of einders ; and the " pot holes" in a bench of the sand- rock in the "Ash Cave," evidently worn by the water at a remote period, when the stream ran here, although it is now eighty or one hundred feet lower, and ten or twelve rods farther north, they imagine, were in some way used for smelting the lead.

As the great natural curiosities of the county are becoming more known and appreciated, we think it best to describe them fully, and this we are enabled to do by a communication from the pen of one perfectly familiar with them, Dr. O. C. FARQUHAR, of Zanesville.

ROCK HOUSE.

Hocking county possesses more points of interest to the lovers of nature than can be found in any other portion of the State. Among the many prominent local places of notoriety and resort that are to be found in this county, nestled away behind the hills, or in the valleys of this seeming wilderness, are the ASH CAVE, ROCK HOUSE, DEAD MAN'S CAVE, CEDAR FALLS, ROCK BRIDGE, and SALTPETRE CAVE, all stand out in the foreground, although it is impossible for one to go amiss here, who is in search of nature's most grand and beautiful. The Rock House is located about twelve miles southwest of Logan, the county-seat, and six miles in an air line from Adelphi station, Ross county. on a farm of 300 acres, owned by Col. F. F. Rempel, of Logan, who is public-spirited and entertaining, and has re- cently erected a very simple and comfortable hotel on the Rock House grounds, for the perfect accommodation of the throngs of visitors who come here during the summer months, from all parts of the country.

The Rock House is a house within a wall of massive sandstone formation, which rises to the height of 166 feet, and is covered here and there with ferns and lichens. From out

this solid wall of rock, nature's means of time and the elements have perhaps hewn out this vast Gothic hall and its attendant chambers, giving it windows and portals, and great sandstone columns to bear its massive roof. This cave is wonderful for its peculiar formation. It is about 350 feet in length, 25 feet high, and fully 25 feet in breadth. Instead of its leading into the bosom of the cliff or rocky wall, through a small aperture, as is common with most subterranean pas- sages, the rocks have been rifted lengthwise, forming two Gothic doorways at about half the height of the precipice, affording the means of entrance ; while along its front are arranged five massive sandstone pillars; the openings between them give the appearance of Gothic windows.

Here again it appears marvellous how much of human art and skill has been dis- played by nature ; and yet all is devoid of the handiwork of man. Near the southern end of the cavern is a shelf or ledge jutting out beyond the doorway, and above this over- hangs the frowning brow of the great preci- pice, over which there trickles a little stream of water at both the east and west ends of this lofty precipice of rocks.

In taking a position in the valley or ravine at the base of this rocky wall and its cliffs,

930

HOCKING COUNTY.

facing the main entrance which leads to the wild, weird-like, mysterious chambers within, and then cast the eyes well up towards the top of the cliff-rocks, permitting the vision to range along the whole frontage for a dis- tance of 500 yards, the view thus afforded is sublime and grand in the extreme.

The whole face of this wall is so evenly and beautifully carved by nature's eroding processes, that the even regularity and beauty of the designs appear to show beyond a doubt that some experienced workman and carver of stone could alone have shaped these grotesque, artistic and fancy forms. "Within this house not made with hands" there are doors, dormitories, windows, rocky porches, rooms, halls, stair-ways and chambers, large

enough to contain more than a thousand peo- ple. At the door of this cavern can be seen the form of a book cut in the rock, and on the pages the following letters appear : I. T. F. B. R. B. A. R :- I. T. F. F. A. W. M. T. A. W., which translated means, "In the fall Buck Run bananas arc ripe, In the frosty fall a wise man takes a wife." Buck Run bananas is the neighborhood vernacular for paw-paws. There are countless unique in- scriptions on the rocks hereabouts. One can very pleasantly, and with profit too, spend a month here delving around among nature's wonders, as only found in the howling wilder- ness of the Hocking hills, whose citizens are always proud of their barefooted Jay-bird orator.

From another source we learn the cave has six openings, including entrances and windows. These openings are bounded by stone columns, as expressed to us in various colors, red, yellow and green. The dimensions are also thus given : Front of precipice in which it is situated, 133 feet; length of cavern, 200 feet ; width 25 to 40, and roof from 30 to 50 feet. In the Ohio Geological Report for 1870 is a brief description and a picture. We now give our correspondent's de- scription of the other curiosities.

ASH CAVE.

One of the most striking and beautiful scenes in Hocking county is so named from the vast quantity of ashes it contains. It has been variously estimated by different per- sons to contain several thousand bushels. Even as late as this year (1886) there are evi- dences of many bushels of wood ashes, nearly as pure, dry and free from moisture as on the day when they were burned. The source of this unnatural ashy mystery remains unex- plained. It has been conjectured that they are the refuse of old saltpetre or nitrate of potash makers, or whether they were piled up in this cave during the course of ages by some of the aborigines who made these cav- erns their places of abode, are at best only visionary and speculative.

The cave is formed by a projecting cliff at the source of a little stream, whose deep valley or gulch parts the bold, rock-ribbed hills whose summits look down upon the tops of the loftiest pines, which grow at their base. At this point, which is the highest rock-exposure in Hocking county, the ledge is not less than 125 feet high, and reaches or projects over from the base not less than 100 feet, forming a semicircular cavern nearly 700 feet in length, ninety feet deep, and about the same in height. At one side of this semicircle, near the rock, lies the great pile of ashes which gives this enchanting and mysterious cavern the name of Ash Cave.

From the centre of the overhanging roof a streamlet leaps into a pool below, lending ad- ditional grandeur, beauty and charms to the before sublime picture. For more than a quarter of a mile distance down this valley, on either side, rises to a height of from eighty to 100 feet, a rocky ledge, which for diversity and elegant naturalness forms a scenic view

seldom if ever surpassed. It simply opens out to the view of the awe-impressed be- holder a magnificent amphitheatre, where every step and every glance unfolds new and beautiful wonders. Large masses of sand- rock are seemingly thrown together with an intention of pure chaotic confusion, many of them beautifully lichened with variegated mosses, rivalling with their gorgeous beauty the finest hues of the most luxuriant Brussels carpets.

From some points or positions of observa- tion, the eye takes in the entire length and breadth of this rocky ledge, from base to summit. At other points are presented the furrowed erosions of the rocky faces, partly hidden by vines that clamber up their sides, and the topmost branches of the scraggy pines that grow up from below. This pecu- liar, beautiful, weird and extensive cavern, and the scenery in its vicinity, is located in Benton township, about twenty-one miles southwest of Logan, the county-seat. Thou- sands of people visit the place each summer, generally making one journey take them to both the Rock House, only six miles distant from the cave. Ohio can furnish no more beautiful scenery than is to be found in this county.

ROCK BRIDGE.

This natural rocky wonder is situated in Good-Hope township, Hocking county, on the Hocking river, and the line of the Colum- bus, Hocking Valley and Toledo Railway, about midway between Lancaster and Logan. This curiosity is a sandstone formation, the under side forming an arch of about thirty degrees curvature. The bridge is level on the top, ranges from ten to twenty feet wide, and is entirely detached from all adjoining rock for a distance of nearly 100 feet. The

Frank Henry Howe, Photo., 1889.

ROCK BRIDGE.

ASH

atiradord

ROCK HOUSE CAVE.

932

HOCKING COUNTY.

span, measured from the under side, is about 150 feet, and is at an elevation of about fifty feet from the bottom of the gulch it spans. The location and easy accessibility, together with the romantic, wild-like place, its fine

shade and picturesque surroundings, have made it a favorite site for picnic excursions from all points along the line of the Colum- bus, Hocking Valley and Toledo Railway.

COLONEL WHITTLESEY'S REMINISCENCES.

In the summer of 1886, a few weeks before the decease of Colonel Charles Whittlesey (see page 523), he gave us orally some interesting items, gathered when on geological surveys of Ohio, about forty-five years before. "Early in this cen- tury," said he, "before the establishment of courts to try culprits, there was a rude system of justice established by the people. The wilderness region-the hill- country of Southeastern Ohio-at times suffered from the crimes of scoundrels who stole horses from the poor settlers and sometimes committed murder. When- ever they were caught, and evidence certain, the people hung or shot them with but little formality. A considerable number of desperadoes were thus disposed of; but the facts did not go out to the public, as it was before the days of news- papers.

In the north part of Hocking county (the name of the township I don't recollect, only that it was on the south side of S. W. } of section 24) is a cave called Thieves' Care, where the horse-thieves gathered their horses -more properly a rock shelter, shelving to- wards the rear. It was in the form of an ellipse, about 130 feet long and thirty feet to the rear. In the beginning of the century horses were brought here. Here the horse- thieves lived and hunted. As late as 1872 horse-manure was found by me while explor- ing it geologically.

At New Straitsville, in the adjoining county of Perry, is a rock shelter on the south side of Sugar Run, about 100 feet long and forty broad, where religious meetings and meetings of miners have been held.

Anciently there was a hunters' trail on the height of land between Lost Run and the West Fork of Snow Fork. This was only a

short distance from the cave. Shortly after the war of 1812, say about 1816, a man with his family, moving West, was overtaken by winter and out of money, about a mile and a half northeast from Thieves' Cave, on the West Fork of Snow Fork, near where it is crossed by the county line of Hocking and Perry. He found there a sand-stone block, which, separated from the main cliff, fell and stood upright, thus forming with the main cliff, two vertical walls. He closed up the rear end and made a door at the other. His only light was from the open door. He had plenty of wood and water. He made shoes all winter for the sparsc settlers, and in spring had money enough to pursue his journey.

Lost Run derived its name from a hunter lost. Years after his skeleton was found with gun by his side. He had evidently been sit- " ting by a tree and had frozen to death.

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Historical collections of Ohio in two volumes, an encyclopedia of the state, Volume I, Part 148

Author: Howe, Henry, 1816-1893 Publication date: 1907 Publisher: Cincinnati : Published by the state of Ohio Number of Pages: 1006

Author: Howe, Henry, 1816-1893
Publication date: 1907
Publisher: Cincinnati : Published by the state of Ohio
Number of Pages: 1006