USA > Oregon > The Oregon native son, Vol. I > Part 32
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When Lewis and Clark wintered at the mouth of the Columbia-not quite a century ago-they learned the first we knew officially of this flotsom of the seas, for they told of seeing it in the hands or natives. In 1814, one Henry, connected with the fur trade, who traveled and wrote of what he saw, published to the British world that beeswax had been dug out of the sands and was found drift- ing on the ocean shore, to his great won- der. It is thus evident that the memory of living man goes not back to the time when this beeswax was not known to
the natives at the mouth of the great river.
My personal cognizance of it goes
whites. The chief testimony as to them_back to 1870, when my family made a summer trip from the Willamette to Til- lamook, 50 or 60 miles south of the Columbia, and brought back small pieces of the beeswax, as also various tradi- tions concerning the ancient wrecks that might have left it there. The bones of two wrecks were then to be seen at the mouth of the Nehalem river, that enters. - the ocean a few miles north of Tillamook bay.
The Indians then occupied their ancient fishing grounds and hunted in the Coast range adjoining. Their story of historic wrecks varied. The sands of Nehalem seem to have rivaled Scylla and Charybdis in enticement to danger, for they rehearsed the story of a Chinese junk that met its fate on one side of the entrance, from which a number were saved. These lamented their fate and wept bitter tears as they looked over the sunset seas toward the shores of the Orient, where the waves were chanting the anthem of the "Nevermore," as friends unavailingly awaited their home- coming. But in time they made homes and found wives, leaving descendants whose almond eyes tell of their Oriental origin to this day.
Many supposed that this beeswax, afloat and ashore, had been a Chinese product, and as time had broken up the frame of the vessel it had washed ashore. To give wider field for speculation, oc- casionally wax candles and tapers were discovered, but the pundits explained that the Chinese had use for wax tapers in the worship of Joss. When placing a specimen of this wax in the hands of Professor Henry, of the
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Smithsonian, in 1872. this same legend accompanied it. But, as time passed, the stores of wax have increased. A fortunate ferryman who plays Charon on the Nehalem, found stores of this same wax on his own land claim, above all ocean tides, and an hundred yards or so distant from the beach. Here was a riddle worth unraveling.
This same beeswax has been found in blocks two feet by 16 inches in size and four inches thick, and these blocks. it has been said by scientific men, bear cabalistic characters that no man can understand, though skillful artists have copied them. Thus the mystery grew; and what made it even more mysterious, tradition did not limit Neptune's wreck- age to that poor Chinaman, but told of other vessels lost here, no doubt belong- ing to western nations, as the men found dead on the sands were bronzed and bearded, as were the few who came ashore and tried to reach civilization by an overland route.
If this story of a white man's ship has any truth, then the beeswax story has greater room to bourgeon and breadth to grow. Determined to investigate, several years ago I went to Astoria and there met Mr. W. E. Warren, who proved to be a good witness. He had in his possession a block of this beeswax that his father received 26 years ago from the master of a schooner he then owned, that made trips out of the Colum- bia to near points along the coast. He had secured this great block of wax and brought it to his owner, whose son had kept it all this time as a message from the seas worth retaining until some solu- tion might be had for the amazing story.
Though somewhat broken. this block was about the size alluded to, and must have weighed 20 pounds. On its upper face was a perfect capital "N" cut wide
and deep, at least five inches long. in exact shape of a Roman letter of this day. Over the "N" was a diamond cut of proportionate size.
Since returning from Astoria I have seen in possession of Mr. Adolph De- kum another block, also broken, with these same marks, also part of a-capital. figure 9, same size; the block having broken off through this figure. Mr. Dekum also has the lower part of a great taper 23 inches at the base, IO inches of length remaining; the top has been broken off. The wick in this is not all gone; usually the wicks have rotted and there is a cavity where the wick once was. He also has a 10-inch piece of a small taper.
Mr. Warren is much interested in all that is prehistoric, as well as in early history. He took me to Mr. Thomas Linville, who also had a large block of same shape, much broken, with the let- ters "I H" very plain and large size. Close to the last letter the block was broken off; he said there was another letter on the other piece. He had given this to a friend and went to get it to put the whole together, but his friend had sent it as a curiosity to his people in Philadelphia; he remembered that it had the letter "N" on it and in the upper corner was a little "S" with a stroke like a dollar mark. The whole block had been marked "I H N," with the small "S" and the stroke through it.
Mr. Linville tells a very interesting story. Both he and Mr. Warren have been on the ground and seen how the wax was stored and found. In 1885, seeking rest and health, Mr. Linville went to Nehalem beach and spent a month, stopping with a Mr. Howell. who kept a ferry across the Nehalem. No wagon travel was possible along that mountain shore, but he ferried over foot-
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men, horsemen and livestock. He had aved there about 15 years. The wax was discovered before that, but since his time something near 10,000 pounds had been found and marketed at 20 cents per pound.
The Nehalem courses down from the Coast ranges, touches the base of Ne- carney, then turns south for three miles, parallel with and quite near to the ocean, then is lost in the sea. It is all this dis- tance separated from the sea by only a narrow ridge, that no doubt has been thrown up as sea beaches. At the base. of Necarney there is a small bay; along the ridge trees grow, among which the Nehalems built à village and made it their winter home.
The Indians have legends of several wrecks that occurred in the olden time. The identity of the one that had the beeswax is the important question. So long as only indistinct marks were found it was imagined that the Chinese junk would do; but as soon as other markings were discovered, then I knew that the Chinaman was not an interested party.
Mr. Howell's story was, that seven years before 1895, there was a very high wind without rain, that blew away the loose sand on the ridge 300 yards from his ferry; that he saw something left exposed and found it to be the corner vi a block of beeswax. He dug it out and found a large block, the same as had been washed on the shore by the tides. He dug and found more: kept digging and found several tons of it in all shapes, sorts and sizes. Some had been run into boxes or kegs: a part was in the great squares or parallelograms. A number were marked with large cap- itals "I H S" with a cross. evidently standing for "In hoc signo" (in this .ign). Others had the letters "I. H. N." for the Latin, "In hoc nomen" (in this
name). Some had only the letter "N." surmounted with a diamond. This, with the perfect tapers of different sizes, place it beyond doubt that the beeswax was intended for stores of the Catholic mis- sions that were on the coast an hundred and fifty years ago.
The most perfect block of all was sold to Mr. Marshall J. Kinney, the well- known canneryman, in the salmon trade. It was most unfortunately burned when his factory was destroyed by fire some years ago. A very interesting question arises as to when this wreck occurred. How this ship came on this shore so long ago? And what use any mission. or any class of missions, could have had for so enormous a quantity of beeswax?
A very clear story, of Indian descent. traces an Indian family to a red-haired white man saved from a wreck about the year 1745. The traditions of wrecks say they occurred very long ago. The pres- ence of that quantity of beeswax, found in a sandbank that is at least 10 feet above the highest tides and 100 paces from the present shore. challenges the records of time as to how long it may have been since this beach has risen out of the sea, and so locate the era when this wreck could have occurred. It is well known that this western coast is gradually rising from the sea, but that it could rise 15 or more feet before the cargo buried in the sands should be un- earthed, must have required a term that spanned more than a century.
Another version of this beeswax wreck was given me by John Henry Brown, who said he received it from Captain Hobson, long known at Astoria as a bar pilot, who narrated it to a group of pioneers assembled for the annual meeting at Portland, in 1895. He had made visits to the Nehalem country. and on one of these excursions met one
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HAMPTON KELLY. A Pioneer of 1848.
MRS. KELLY. A Pioneer of 1852.
J. C. TRULLINGER. \ Pioneer of 1848.
DR. JAS. MCBRIDE. A Pioneer of 1846.
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WRECKED BEESWAX AND BURIED TREASURE.
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.[ the very first settlers, who said that many years ago the oldest of the Indians : Add a tradition handed down of a vessel it very long ago; that all on board were lost and the vessel went gradually to decay; then the beeswax began to come ashore. They did not know what !! « to put it to; some tried burning it and found it was good fuel. but wood was plenty, so it was not valuable. - They had an idea it might be bad medicine; at any rate, they quit burning it. This is the only tradition coming from Indian sources. Since 1806 white men have - Known of the Nehalem beeswax; geol- ogists tell that the west coast is rising from the sea; that the Willamette valley was once a sound, as Puget sound is today; this wax was spread along the coast for 50 or more miles: therefore, it is not unreasonable to believe that the total quantity at the beginning was far more than we have knowledge of. But the most interesting question is: How came any such mission craft to be in this latitude a century and a half ago?
Long before Sir Walter Raleigh set-
tled Virginia, or the Puritans landed in New England, Spaniards were sailing up the Pacific. The course of Spain's com- merce was by the northern route, but what such a vessel was doing there in the middle of the last century is a ques- tion not easily answered. In that early day there were English. Dutch and other ships depredating on Spain's com- merce, capturing treasure ships from Panama to China, as well as ships loaded with silks and spices from the Orient, bound to Panama, where these cargoes were taken by 'portage to the shore of the Atlantic and shipped for Spain. It is possible that some of these sea rovers had captured this mission ship and left the beeswax in her hold, and when the vessel was wrecked the same came ashore as we have found.
The story of old-time wrecks on the west shore has not been vet told. I have gathered from reliable sources what could be known as to these, and will try to write concerning them at some near time.
SAMUEL A. CLARKE.
THE PIONEER.
We worship heroes. The heart pulse quickens at the name of an heroic soul. The diary of great men is the history of the world. Read the lives of three men and you have read the history of Greece; read the lives of five men and you have read the history of the Roman empire; read the lives of the members of our great convention and you have read the first volume of American history.
To find the foundation on which our Western civilization is builded read the lives of the pioneers. Heroes they, who have played well their part in the world's
tragedy. Against the solid foundation which they have laid, the waves of time, without effect, shall dash for an eternity. Out of a wilderness they have brought forth cities of splendor. Before their brawny arms and courageous hearts the discordant notes of nature became har- monious. Their beneficent and world- beloved sacrifice has removed the dross from the genuineness of life, and added new luster to the race .. They pass, cov- ered with glory, to their eternal home- a reclaimed wilderness their monument.
GILBERT L. HEDGES.
THORNS ON ROSE BUSHES.
An Indian Legend.
Almost all of the Indians of the Northwest believe that rose bushes pos- sess some kind of a charm or influence that will keep away ghosts and spirits. When one is sick, and it is thought death is at hand, and death is believed to be the work of an evil spirit, rose bushes are put around the sick person's bed. The efficacy of rose bushes as a shield against death's arrow comes to the Indian through a happening which they believe occurred not long subse- quent to the creation. If the Indian can be induced to speak of the we-ta-tash or long ago age, and rose bushes are his subject, he will tell one something about as follows: When the Great Spirit cre- ated the earth he made the oceans to wash its shores, the rivers to give it drink, the trees to give the pleasant shadow and the grasses its expanse to beautify. Afterwards he made the flow- ers-and last of all, the rose bushes, but without their thorns. Then he called from the land of souls four spirits whom he clothed in bodies not unlike his own. Some of these spirits were good and gentle, some vicious and evil. Two were males and two were females, and to each was given the charge of a class of crea- tures. Ne-ka-na, who ruled the deer and buffalo, was good and pure of soul, and his spouse, La-wis-wis, the queen of love, had dominion over the song birds and butterflies. Kas-la-kin. relent- less, fierce and crafty, was given com- mand of the monsters of the deep, and to Mem-a-lak. his mate, sway over ser- pents, lizards and other creeping things.
The latter couple journeyed to the southward, while Ne-ka-na and La-wis- wis crossed plains and mountains to the
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north and westward, journeying slowly until they came to the beautiful Puyallup valley. Here they erected a lodge near the base of Mount Rainier, from whose breast a stream of laughing water went winding, widening as it hastened on- ward to the sea. Around them, on hill. in dale, in forest grand, all verdant. clothed and perfumed with sweetest flowers, were allowed to roam the crea- tures that were placed in the keeping oi the twain. Here and there went Ne-ka- na caring for his flocks, and again re- turning to be near his bride. La-wis- wis busied herself, when alone, by con- veying water to the flowers in a shell which she carried on her head. As she went the round of these duties, a cloud of butterflies, eager to sip from the shell. hovered over her head, and though ages have rolled away since she trod the earth, still they search for the beautiful shell. One can see them on any bright spring day settling down on every tiny pool by the wayside, only to flutter away to another in its quest.
But this paradise was to be visited by evil. To it came Mem-a-lak. the spouse of Kas-la-kin, who had met death some time previous. Seeking for another mate, she had wandered sad and lonely about the earth, followed by the crea- tures over which she held control. Her coarse, black hair was banded with a serpent, whose skin turned from green to gold with every movement of her sinuous form, while others were coiled about her arms and ankles. Lizard- whose brilliant hues rivaled the brightest gems, clung to her robe and confined it at the waist.
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THORNS ON ROSE BUSHES.
From behind a tree she watched truth and love-lovers' tender partings and joyous greetings, and her breast was filled with jealous anger-anger because Kas-la-kin wat no more, jealous that another should possess what she did not have. Well she knew that none of the venom- ous reptiles with her could injure La- wis-wis. Well she knew that she could never win the love of Ne-ka-na while
poses-for, in the Indian's belief, in that age, all creatures and plants were en- dowed with thought and power of con- verse-drew themselves around the sleeper for her protection. As each branch endeavored to get in place to bar expected onslaught, their every power of growth was called upon, but the strain brought forth no additional twig. Some of the roses turned white with terror. all uplifted themselves to
MT. RAINIER, At whose base lies the beautiful Puyallup Valley, the Eden of the Indian.
La-wis-wis lived. But she would wait antil Ne-ka-na was far away, and then silently steal upon the object of her hatred and strangle her to death.
The opportunity came. Ne-ka-na had gone across the valley with his herds, and La-wis-wis, lulled to drowsiness by inactivity, had lain down by the rose bushes and had gone to sleep. Cautious- ly Mem-a-lak approached, but the rose bushes, divining her murderous pur-
the Great Spirit, watching from the top of the mountain, in an appeal for aid. Their cause being a good one, he caused thorns to spring forth from the bushes, and when Mem-a-lak bounded forward, intent upon the death of La-wis-wis, they wrapped themselves around her and with their thorns tore her to pieces. Since then her spirit-a thing of evil, darkness and death-lurks in dreary places and in burial grounds. Since
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then the rose, the only flower the Indian cares for or gathers, has been by them considered the most efficacious instru- ment by which death can be averted. Since then the Indian mother places the
wild rose over the pappoose board. thinking of La-wis-wis as she does so. and invokes for her babe that protection and security given in the long ago leg- ended past. F. H. SAYLOR
HOW CHINOOK WON.
Almost all of the old pioneers, espe cially those living on Puget sound, re- member Hon. Frank Clark, one of the prominent attorneys of that section of the Pacific Northwest up to the time of his death. The following narrative shows how, with the use of Chinook jar- gon, he won a case for a client which at first looked very doubtful as to the out- come.
It seems that his client had been ar- rested on the charge of cutting timber on government land. The United States was represented by two federal attor- neys, brought from a distance-San Francisco, if we remember aright. When these lawyers came into court there fol- lowed behind them a porter who un- loaded upon the table fronting the judge's bench armful after armful of books. Clark strode in with three vol- umes of law under his arm. The jury was composed entirely of loggers and ranchers. Opening the case, the im- ported lawyers delved deep into the tomes of law before them and cited deci- sion after decision bearing on the case on trial. Then, using language, one-half of the words of which were too extensive for the jury's understanding, they launched into their argument.
As the United States attorneys fin- ished. Clark arose, picked up one of his law books, and, without opening the vol- ume, threw it aside. The next book shared the same fate. The third was
opened only to be cast aside. Clark then squared himself to the jury.
"Nesika tillicums!" he commenced. and then, in a flow of Chinook jargon. went on to plead his client's cause. There was not a man on the jury but what un- derstood every sentiment Clark con- veyed, whereas the highflown language of the imported attorneys had been ut- terly lost on them.
In vivid Chinook, Clark painted a word picture of the trials and tribulation- of the settler in the wilds of a Washing- ton forest. Of the desperate effort nec- essary to maintain wife and babies. And because his client had hauled a wagon load of cordwood to the village store to trade for food, he had been arrested. in- prisoned and his family deprived of his support.
There was possibly not one in the jury box but who had at some time been in the position Clark pictured. Every syn- pathy in them was aroused. Tears trick- led down their rugged cheeks as Clark's Chinook flowed on.
The lawyers from afar were awake to the disadvantage they were being placed under. An objection was entered to Clark's use of Chinook or any other lan- guage which the opposing counsel could not understand.
"Your honor," answered Clark, "the jury here is to decide this case. The eminent gentlemen for the prosecution have used language so grandiloquent
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that not one of the jury has understood :. purport. I am speaking to them in the simple talk of the Western frontiers- man. understood alike by both Indian and white man who traverse and have been instrumental in the development of this Northwest. My language, call it jargon if you wish, explains to the jury.
and, if I·mistake not. also to your honor. the situation. I have but a few words more to say, and, with the court's per- mission, will continue in Chinook."
The permission was granted, and Clark's client acquitted without the jury leaving their seats.
SWEET PEAS. Copyright 1899, by Olive S. England.
There was once a gardener who found one of his pot plants so root-bound that" it became necessary to put it into a larger pot. So he took a barrel anu sawed it in two, and using the lower half for his plant, the other half he threw in an obscure corner of the garden, where. the day before, some sweet peas had been planted.
This half of the barrel accidentally fell in such a manner that. in .growing. the sweet peas must come up through it. Well. the little peas found themselves down in the rich mould with the snails. the earth worms, wood bugs, ants. ground spiders and earwigs But they Were not at all afraid. for they were all just as sociable and friendly as could be. and they had rather a pleasant time of it. For the sweet peas did not under- stand the philosophy of environment. did not remember any other life, and, as long as they conceived of nothing better. were quite contented. By observing how the little underground people lived and burrowed in the earth. they felt im- Illed to do likewise, and so they sent out tiny rootlets in every direction, and were very busy. But one day they heard the murmuring and pattering of the raindrops as they came down through their earth coverings. The sweet peas listened, and could plainly hear the crys-
tal drops saying: "Climb out, climb out : you are in prison and darkness. Go higher. go higher."
Then they felt a strange desire stir within them to go higher; and they said to the little underground people: "Did you hear what the raindrops told us?"
These queer little people all made fun of them, and the wood bugs told them to be contented where they were, for if they did get out on top of the ground it was not a pleasant place to be, unless they stayed under an old board or rot- ten log. in a dark. damp place. But yet. it set them thinking, and by think- ing they lost some of their contentment. After a while the sun shone out. and some bright beams found their way into the old barrel, and brought the sweet message that they always bring, saying: "Come out and play with us; let us shed our glory all about you; come into the light."
The sweet peas could not mistake the message of the sunbeams.
They now realized that they were in coldness and darkness. Again they felt the thrill of awakened divinity-a great longing to mount upward, and they sent out the life germ which slowly ascended to seek the radiant sunbeams that so ten- derly wooed them. The little under- ground people called them foolish. and
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A
Photo. by McAlpin. ELIOT ORDWAY.
H. S. LYMAN.
T. H. ROGERS.
Photo. by Vonro GEO. P. HOLMAN.
SHE
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Liid: "We don't hear voices calling; we find our work right here, all about ( !.. You are seeking a delusion."
The sweet peas knew their little friends were doing the duties of their sphere, and felt that their own rootlets were bet- ter off where they were, and by being there could better enable them to do their work, but by the inner conscious- ness of their own immortal longings, they felt there was something more for them.
They did not know how to express it, because it was an unknowable thing So they could not agree with earth worms, snails, ground spiders, ants and earwigs.
There was really no language but the "still, small voice" of the soul by which they could express their wondrous desire for freedom and for light. But they continued to grow and unfold more and more; and while they did not altogether understand the great mysteries of the wonderful life within them, they often found themselves trying to remember something, they knew not what.
They often asked themselves why, whence, whither? and sometimes the voices calling them upward caused them to almost remember that they had. in some dim, shadowy past, once grown on a graceful green vine, and bloomed in fragrance in a beautiful garden, where there were birds and bees, and butter- flies, and a crystal fountain, and where the sunlight bathed all things in glo- rious light. But they could not quite make it all out-and if at times a mem- ory of immortal things rushed over them with wonderful inspirations, they only rose more steadily to the influence which irresistibly called them higher.
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