USA > Oregon > The Oregon native son, Vol. I > Part 69
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The morning of the 21st we reached Havre, Montana, that station being the junction for Ft. Benton, etc. Thence crossing the plains on the following morning at 5 o'clock, we came to Grand Forks, where we diverged from the main line of the road, taking train via Neshe and Gretna for Winnepeg, which last named city I found vastly improved since my last visit there, now a good many years ago. At present it contains about 50,000 souls and has some very handsome business blocks on its wide thoroughfare. Main street, while on the less important streets quite a number of imposing structures are being added to those already completed.
Winnepeg is situated on the Red River of the North, at the junction of the As- siniboine. Thanks to the kindness of Mr. Ford, superintendent of the Domin-
ion Express Company, we spent some eight hours very delightfully there. We boarded a Canadian Pacific train at 10:30 P. M., bound for Montreal. On the morning of August 24th we passed North Bay, Ontario, having the day be- fore skirted the north shore of Lake Su- perior, and Huron too. From North Bay a branch line runs to Toronto.
The afternoon of the 24th we reached Ottawa, the Dominion capital, a city of 50,000 inhabitants. Here Mr. Clark, agent of the Dominion Express, very kindly accompanied us on a drive through the city, pointing out enroute places of interest. At 6 P. M., we took a local train for Montreal, arriving at the Windsor Hotel there at 10 P. M.
The following morning, at 8 o'clock, Messrs. Julier and Evans, of New York, put in an appearance, and during the day we made some calls. Toward even- ing we drove to the Hill Park (Mount Royal-Mont-real, after which the city is named) whence one has a superb view ot the surrounding country as well as of the city itself. Early on the morning of the 26th we left for Quebec, arriving there at 2:00 P. M.
We spent Sunday in this quaint, historic old town, attending service in the English cathedral in the morning and taking train for the sacred shrine of St. Anne de. Beaupre, the miracle-working church of Canada. Here upwards of 100.000 pilgrims flock annually, seeking the blessings of the patron saint of Canadian Catholics. On our way to and from St. Anne's ve passed the Falls of Montmor- ency, quite celebrated, and certainly . a beautiful waterfall.
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On Monday, August 28th, at 8:40 A. M. we left on a Quebec-St. John train for Lake St. John and Roberval, at which latter place we arrived 4:50 last evening. After passing two and a half hours at Roberval, during which we had a good dinner at the hotel, we retraced a part of our course over the railroad to Chambord Junction, and about 9:30 ar- rived at Chicoutimi, which lies on the
the lake and moose regions of Maine, fills the chasm which constitutes the Saguenay River.
The lake (St. John) is seventy-five miles northwest of the St. Lawrence. The so-called Saguenay river looks more like a lake, or more resembles the lake stretches of the Hudson and Columbia Rivers, the narrow waters of Puget Sound, Hood's Canal, the Alaskan in-
MONTMORENCY FALLS.
Saguenay. Rising at 6:45 this A. M., we had breakfast and walked to the dock. five minutes' distant from the hotel, and boarded the steamer "Canada," which left at 8:10, turning her head eastward down the Saguenay.
Without looking at the map, or, if I ever did, forgetting the source and course of the Saguenay. I thought it originated in the hills and forests east of the St. Lawrence and flowed northwest to that river, but St. John's Lake, fed by some fifteen streams, from a country like
land waters and the narrow part of the Japan Inland Sea-than like a river. Its junction with the St. Lawrence is oppo site Riviere du Loup, the St. Lawrence being about 20 miles wide at the point o: junction. The banks of the Saguenay -- and we were on it for about six and 1 half hours-at points rise to an almost perpendicular height of 1800 to 200) feet-as for examples, the cliffs called "Trinity" and "Eternity."
Upon the shores, or rather the hills. there is a small growth of timber and un-
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derbrush which in general respect is not dissimilar (from the steamer's decks) to that of Lake Geneva and Lucerne in Switzerland.
Shortly after 1:00 P. M. we reached Tadousac (Indian name) a small village at the confluence of the Saguenay with the St. Lawrence. This town is probably one of the first business settlements founded by the French on the St. Lawrence. The lit- tle Church of the Holy Cross, built in 1645, is, accord- ing to record, the very first built by them in this region. In other days, early times, the Indians brought their furs to Tadousac from 300 miles inland, to trade with the French. Between 4:00 and 6:00 P. M. we were due at the point where thewat- ers of the Riviere du Loup and the St. Lawrence meet, and we landed at the pier at 4:30, where we took a carriage to the town of Riviere du Loup, some four miles distant.
In the morning we leave on the Inter- colonial Railway for Eastern Canada, Truro, in Nova Scotia, expecting to ar- rive at that station at 8:00 P. M. where we will stop over night. Then at 10:00 A. M., August 31st, we expect to take train for North Sydney, where we are due at 7:00 P. M. same day. Then we transfer to boat for Port au Basques, N. F .. which place we should reach at 1:00 A. M., September Ist. and there hope to connect with train for St. John (Sin Jin). These St. John's are liable to confuse a stranger at a distance, for there is a St. John's in Ontario, one in Quebec, one in New Foundland and one in New Bruns- wick, and one in Nova Scotia. Those in New Foundland and Nova Scotia are the
chief cities of those two provinces. After a visit to St. Johns, N. F., we will return to the mainland via Port au Basques, and go thence to Prince Edward Island, and Charlottetown, via Cape Breton.
You may not be aware, or have for- gotten, that New Foundland has never entered the Canadian fed- eration; but that it goes it alone, as it were. Howev- er, upon inquiry, I have been told that the allied provinces do not discrimi- nate against New Foundland in the matter of customs duties.
We have had most favorable weather thus far, and can only hope it will so continue during the remain- der of the trip.
CHURCH OF STE. ANNE DE BEAUPRE.
A TRIP ACROSS NEW FOUND- LAND.
St. Johns, N. F., Sept. 2, 1899.
We left Riviere du Loup August 30, 1899, for Truro, enroute to St. Johns, N. F., traveling from there 011 the Intercolonial
Railway, a government road, which is well equip- ped with fine new sleepers built by the Wagner Palace Car Co. for that line. To my mind the Intercolonial offers the best dining car service-at moderate rates, too-of any system over which I have thus far traveled.
As we journeyed eastward the French characteristics of the country began to give place to English-the houses now seen were generally painted white, and had gables, while the mansard roofs and dormer windows began to disappear. The very names, too, changed, and from those of a multiplicity of "saints" be-
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came distinctly English appellations. Toward noon we were ranging along the banks of the Metapedia, a fine stream which, at the town of the same name, empties into the Rectigouche, a river abounding with especially fine salmon. Three miles beyond Metapedia the Res- tigouche discharges into Bay Chaleur, an arm of the Gulf of St. Lawrence.
We now took a southeasterly direc- tion, and about 4:00 P. M. arrived at Moncton-a new town of some import- ance-where we found a lot of mail awaiting us.
About 9:00 P. M., August 30, we " reached Truro, N. S., and there put up for the night, leaving the next morning (August 31) at 10:00 A. M., for North Sydney. Nothing of striking interest was to be seen from the car window as we rode over the stretch of country lying along our route that day. About 4:00 P. M., we crossed the Straits of Canseau, a narrow water-way between Mulgrave and Point Tupper, separating Cape Bre- ton Island from the mainland (Nova Scotia), and by close of the day we were skirting the shores of Big Bras d' Or and Little Bras d' Or, two beautiful lakes in Cape Breton, the larger of which is about forty miles long. These bodies of water and a small connecting canal di- vide the island.
At 8:00 P. M. we found ourselves on the pier to which the steamer "Bruce" had made fast in North Sydney har- bor. This handsome steel boat, some 1100 odd gross tonnage, it is built with especial reference to plowing her way through the winter ice of these northern waters. On one trip last season the spray of waters constantly striking her weather side froze and so coated and weighted her to port that she had a three and a half foot list when reaching desti- nation. She can steam at the rate of 16 knots per hour: but being long and nar- row, is, as a sailor phrases it, likely to bury herself when forced. The run from North Sydney across Cabot Straits to Port aux Basques, some eighty or ninety miles, is made in about seven hours; passengers remaining aboard the steam-
er until the following morning, when, at 7:00 A. M., the train leaves Port aux Basques for St. Johns.
A more uninviting country than the first few hours of the ride reveal could hardly be imagined. Where stones and boulders do not cover the barren sur- face, only coarse grasses, low, scrubby shrubs, and stunted pines greet the eye. - But presently we came to Sandy Point, on St. George's Bay, where lobster cul- ture and canning are prosecuted. This is the second bay of that name in these regions. Later on we were on the shores of the Bay of Islands, where lies a small fishing hamlet called Birchy Cove. Just at present the Philadelphia private yacht "Eleanor" rides at anchor in this bay.
As the railroad penetrates farther and farther inland-course northeast to southeast a sort of half-circle-the vege- tation puts on a better appearance; the pine, spruce, larch, birch, maple, etc., while not very big, are larger; the shrub- bery is more vigorous, and the grasses and ferns thrive better. But where not covered by timber the land is chiefly moor and fen, or boggy, showing up fre- quently what are called in Florida, hum- mocks, scattering clusters of little spon- gy moulds, the general topography oi the country being rough and broken, with much stony surface. Among all these sterile conditions are seen whortle or blue berries and rasp- berries, now in bearing, and the occasional open spaces are bright- ened by butter-cups, golden-rod and dandelions; while wherever fire has destroyed timber, there springs up the prolific ""fire-weed," a rather tall growth having a light, magenta-colored flower. The plant and single blossom at a dis- tance resembles mustard, but the flower- cluster on a tall stem, much as do those. of the larkspur.
Bays, rivers, lakes and ponds abound. and one-third of the islands, with a total area of 42,000 sq. miles, is said to be un- dler water. The Humber River, draining a chain, of lakes in the western part of the island. is fed by the Junction River. draining Grand Lake, a large sheet of
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water, and then empties into Deer Lake, also of considerable dimensions, which by a narrow outlet is connected with the Bay of Islands. These water-ways to the west, and the Exploits River and lakes to Notre Dame Bay on the east practically make water-dividing lines of the island. A station on the road at the summit of the divide, 1600 feet elevation, is called "Gaff-topsail," and near by are three elevations-low peaks or little
dozen towns or villages, and in all these as in fact all over the island, fishing is the chief industry. The population of the island, 210,000, is located almost wholly on the shores of many fine bays, inlets, etc., which abound. and which,
THE BASILICA.
buttes-called "Three Topsails" (fore, main and mizzen). At Alexander Bay the road runs almost due south, with only a slight deflection to the east, until Placentia Junction is reached, where it runs northeasterly to St. Johns. In this part of the country Trinity and Concep- tion Bays are seen from the northerly side of the car, while Placentia Bay (a fine body of water) lies in view to the south.
During all this run of 549 miles (28 hours) we passed not more than half a
practically without exception, afford safe anchorage. The most important inland town is Whitbourne, 900 people, and 60 miles from St. Johns.
We reached St. Johns (30,000 people) at 12:40. and were rather disappointed in finding it generally untidy; the streets. in particular, were dusty, dirty and un- paved.
The harbor somewhat resembles that of Nagasaki in outline, though consider- ably smaller. Its wharves are not up to the English standard, and the only strik-
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ing feature of the maritime status is a large wooden dry-dock. Two British men-o'-war, the "Comus" and "Alert," are in port at present, and this morning the crew and officers of both marched through the streets, headed by a band, and followed by the "Boys" Brigade (a local organization) to attend divine ser- vice at the English cathedral-a hand- some stone structure which was almost ruined seven years ago by the great fire which swept over a considerable part of this city. As it has not been repaired, a portion of it only is reserved for service.
is credited with having introduced to Europe the names of Cathay and Cip- ango for China and Japan-probably his own invention. England paid little heed to Cabot's discoveries, though he made a second voyage. His son, Sebastian, came to America later and explored the coast from Labrador to Florida; but nothing was done to reward his efforts, and he went to Spain, where he fared better. In 1583 one Gilbert, a half- brother of Sir Walter Raleigh, came to New Foundland with five ships-losing one enroute, and later on a second near
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CHATEAU FRONTENAC.
After church the naval contingent marched back to the city front, and be- fore embarking for their respective ships were thrice cheered by the Boys' Brig- ade, which courtesy was supplemented by a vociferous "tiger" by the lads.
Now a word in general regarding New Foundland, past and present. History and tradition say John Cabot, the Vene- tian merchant of Bristol, England, cruis- ed along its shores in 1497. searching for passage to Cathay and Cipango-and. by-the-way, Marco Polo, that other fam- ous Venetian explorer on land and sea,
Cape Breton. Gilbert found at St. Jolins divers bold mariners, from whom he gathered his own countrymen and in the name of his English sovereign formally took possession of the country. He then pursued his voyage south, to Cape Bre- ton, etc., losing another ship, whereupon he set his face homewards, braving the rough northern seas in his frail caravel. "The Squirrel," a little dinghy of ten tons. She foundered enroute, and Gil- bert was never heard of more. From those days St. Johns has grown at the rate of about 100 people yearly; but
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ah! the romance and the crime that lies between-the struggle of the English and French, the fall of Louisbourg and Quebec, the banishments, etc.
The entrance to the little harbor of St. Johns is only 700 feet wide at its nar- rowest part, and across this, at night, in ye ancient days, the English drew a chain, to keep the French out; and right well have they succeeded, not only in New Foundland, but in other lands far and near.
Up to 1729 New Foundland had no definitely organized government. being a sort of no-man's land, where all com- ers could fish, but at the date mentioned an English governor was appointed and matters systematized. In 1832 a repre- sentative government was started, but not fully developed until 1854, when it was characterized as a responsible gov- ernment. It consists of a governor ap- pointed by the Queen, an executive council, not exceeding seven persons, se- lected by the governor from the domi- nant party of the legislature. A legis- lative council, not exceeding seventeen, is nominated in executive council for life, which corresponds to the House of Lords, in Great Britain. A lower house, of 36 members, is elected by the people for a period of four years-correspond- ing to the House of Commons. The real power is the leader of the dominant party in the house of parliament, the governor's power being merely nominal. All expenses of government are defrayed by a tariff for revenue only on imports, the amount thus realized being from $1,500,000 to $1,850,000 per annum. Four-fifths of the commerce is fishery; three-fourths of this being codfishing; the taking of hair seals is also extensive. Of large game the cariboo or reindeer only is plentiful. Of birds there is a notable absence; and of New Foundland dogs not a sign even. There is a little lumber, a little coal, and much iron and copper-in prospect.
The government refused to enter the Canadian Confederation, and in its own right, controls 1100 miles of the coast of Labrador. As already stated, the pres-
ent population of the island is about 210,000 and the indebtedness of the gov- ernment about $13,000,000, or say $65 per capita. This comparatively heavy debt-burden was largely incurred by building the railroad and branches, all told 650 miles, and constructing the dry- dock at St. Johns. These, with wagon roads and other public utilities belong to the government.
September 4, 9 P. M .- We are now at Port aux Basques, ready to sail for Syd- ney. And so adieu to New Foundland. We have met with nothing but kindness at the hands of its people, and so again we say, Adieu!
A TRIP ACROSS CAPE BRETON ISLAND.
Halifax, Sept. 7, 1899.
Our last general budget was complet- ed while in the sleeping car of the New Foundland Railway, just before reaching Port au Basques, which port lies on the extreme southwest point of the island. Thence late at night we re-embarked midst a fierce gale and cold rain on the steamer "Bruce," to which reference has been made in my letter from St. Johns. Having no freight whatever, she gave us a merry dance that night in crossing Cabot Strait-plunging, bucking, roll- ing, writhing and reeling midst the howi- ing wind and raging sea, keeping me awake practically all night. Neverthe- less we reached North Sydney on the island of Cape Breton in good time. This island is, politically speaking, a part of the maritime province of Nova Scotia.
Sydney, a town giving promise of rapid growth and development, because of the establishment of extensive iron and steel plants there, lies on the north side of the lower portion of Cape Breton -the western extremity of the island running considerably farther north. From North Sydney we retraced our course over a portion of the railroad to Truro, a junction, from which 'tis but a short run to Halifax, at which city we arrived last night. Tomorrow we leave for Prince Edward Island, embarking at Picton to cross the Strait of Northum-
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berland for Charlottetown, on the south- ern side of the island. After a brief tour inland we will leave the western part of the island at Summerside, recrossing the strait to Point du Chene for St. John, New Brunswick.
Day .before yesterday was devoted principally to Louisbourg, which lies on the southeasterly portion of Cape Breton Island, and from which can be seen the most extreme rocky point which forms what is called "Cape Breton." The ob- ject of our visit to Louisbourg was, of course, to inspect the ruins of the notable fortifications erected there by the French
and topographical description of the place as it once was. The order for the demolition of the fortress, in 1760, was but too faithfully executed, and from time to time the very stones have been carried off to serve in constructing foun- dations and chimneys of buildings along the coasts of the provinces. Thus Louis- bourg, once one of the strongest fortified cities of the world, is now but a grass- grown ruin, where, figuratively speak- ing, not one stone is left upon another. Once it was a city with walls of stone en- closing a circuit of two and a half mile .. thirty-six feet high, and forty feet thick
CAPES ETERNITY AND TRINITY.
in the early days, and which were captur- ed in 1745 by British colonists from New England, under Pepperell. They were restored to the French under the treaty of Aix la Chapelle, only to be besieged and retaken by Wolfe in his famous cam- paign which ended with the loss of his life at the fall of Quebec. The surrender of the two citadels-Louisbourg and Quebec -- were the determining events in the overthrow of French power in North America.
Today. the fortifications of Louisbourg are desolate indeed, and they can only be accurately traced by the aid of a chart
at the base. For twenty-five years the French labored upon it. and had ex- pended upwards of thirty millions of livres, or nearly six million dollars. in completing its defenses. It was called the Dunkirk of America. Garrisoned In veterans of France, and with powerin! batteries commanding every point. " bristled with most potent implement. .. war. It had embrasures for 148 cannon and the fosse was eighty feet broad. In the garrison were 600 regulars and &. . . armed inhabitants, at the time when there were not more than 100 soldiers in garrisons elsewhere from the lower St.
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Lawrence to the eastern shore of Lake Frie. It was well called the Dunkirk of America. Today. it is difficult to trace the location of its walls among the turf which marks the ruins. Seldom has dem- olition been more complete. It seemed built for all time; it has vanished from the face of the earth.
The achievement of the capture of Louisbourg by the New England forces under Pepperell, aided by Commodore Warren, of an English fleet, has been commemorated by the erection of a mon- .
Lawrence. The brief truce was soon broken, and then came the armies of England, and Wolfe sought and won his first new-world laurels. Louisbourg fell once more, and the knell of its glory was rung. The conquest of Canada achieved, the edict went forth that Louisbourg should be destroyed. The solid build- ings, formed of stone brought from France were torn to pieces, the walls were pulled down, and the batteries rendered useless for all time. It
took two years to complete the
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TADOUSAC, ON THE LOWER ST. LAWRENCE.
ument by the Society of Colonial Wars on a commanding position amid the ruins. Pepperell's victory was one of the most notable achievements of colonial times. The monument was formally dedicated in 1895, on the 150th anniver- sary of the capture.
The capture of Louisbourg by Pep- perell, in 1745, was the first, but not its final conquest. Restored to France by the peace of Aix la Chapelle, Louisbourg was again the French stronghold on the Atlantic coast, and French veterans held Cape Breton, the key of the Gulf of St.
destruction, and then the once proud city was a shapeless ruin. Years passed by; the stones were carried away by the dwellers along the coast, and to the hand of time was left the work of completing the oblitera- tion. Time has been more merciful than mian; it has covered the gloomy ruin with a mantle of green, and has healed the gaping wound which once rendered ghastly the land that nature made so fair.
The island of Cape Breton is replete with romance; for to it in early days came not alone the French, but that
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peculiar people, the Basques-Iberians -after which early voyageurs Port aux Basques, N. F., has been named. There also came many Catholic Scots; and an odd feature of the influence of these lat- ter people is the publication at the pres- ent day of a Gaelic paper in Cape Bre- ton-the only one printed in the world.
As stated elsewhere, Wolfe's brief campaign against the French in the new world won for him, as did Nelson's achievements for that naval celebrity,
(Quebec) that was the scene of his death. One who has read the story of Quebec. and is prone to attach a sentiment to the ancient and historic city, should have his first view of it from the water or op- posite shore. There he will see the stronghold as it has been pictured to him. The cliffs, the spires, the tin roofs glistening in the sunlight will all seen? very real to him, and kindle a longing to enter the city so rich in the legends of the past.
CHAMPLAIN MONUMENT, DUFFERIN TERRACE, QUEBEC.
what we call undying fame. I recall that Thackeray introduces Wolfe in either Henry Esmond or the Virginians-prob- ably Esmond. If I remember right that author describes Wolfe as being a thin, spare man, of slight figure, with blue eyes, a fair but freckled complexion, and red hair: austere in character and alto- gether a worthy representative of the best English spirit.
Because of its connection with Wolfe's achievements, it may not be out of place here to briefly refer to the famous city
Everywhere are monuments of a strange and eventful history. Yonder is the Basilica, or French Cathedral, begun in 1647, when gay Louis XIV was king. and the star of France shed a brilliant light over the eastern and western worlds. The edifice was consecrated in 1666, and is said to be, with the excep- tion of the church at St. Augustine. Florida, the oldest important church structure on the continent. There are treasures within its walls, apart from the golden vestments and rich ornaments.
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