USA > Oregon > The Oregon native son, Vol. I > Part 54
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Marblemount, from which point a good road leads to Hamilton, the railroad ter- minus, 36 miles distant.
On July 10, 1899, Mazamas gathered at Seattle from all parts of the country, and at 4 o'clock boarded a Great North-
at a premium, and as no one had slep: during the night, but had violated ali sorts of railroad rules by standing on car platforms and enjoying to the uttermo -: a romantic ride over the Cascade moun- tains by moonlight, a quiet soon settled
Photo by Curtis, Seattle.
CHELAN FALLS.
ern train for Wenatchee, where they ar- rived about 2 o'clock the following morning and found a steamboat await- ing them, which was boarded, and at 3 o'clock they were on their way up the Columbia river. State rooms were scarce, and ever soft spots on deck were
over all, until breakfast dishes began rattle, when Billy goats and Nannie- too, bestirred themselves and thought .; grazing. With a hoarse cough and a pai sied tremble, our boat worked its way up the rapid river, over shoals and rat ids, where it seemed at times an eve:
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LAKE CHELAN AND VALLEY OF THE STEHEKIN.
vontest. The country on either hand is "arren and forbidding, with plains of agebrush and greasewood, or seared grass, struggling for a doubtful living. At one place a landing was made, an Indian sweat house discovered and a 'ady was prevailed on to get within long enough to be photographed. For thir- tren hours our boat struggled against the current, and at the end of that time 'anded us at Chelan Falls, forty miles from Wenatchee, where we were met by friends who conveyed us to Lakeside, where the night was spent.
Wednesday morning we boarded the steamer Stehekin, and at 8 o'clock pulled out for Stehekin, at the head of the lake. The day was bright and beau- :iful. the atmosphere clear, the blue wa- ter and low hills were new to us, for we came from the city, you know, where such things are not to be seen. Vocal and instrumental music floated upon the breeze, we were at peace with all the world. and oh, how beautiful it was. Bye and bye we made a landing and a sweet little child brought to us a basket of flowers, accompanied by a letter from the giver, who himself loves nature. and thus considers Mazamas kith and kin Gradually low, receding hills grew in height and became more and more rocky and precipitous, until the lake remed but a silver ribbon between vast valls of rock rising above us, surmount- 'd by towering peaks of perpetual snow, wer the sides of which. here and there, ame delicate strands of silver, or great aring cataracts. The prosy interest in changing scene, visible among mem- wers of the party in the early morning, gradually gave way to surprise and as- 'onishment, intermingled with adora- Hon, and vet this feeling did not get full way until long after landing at Stehe- 11. when peaks on all sides seemed to vinte rising, and proclaiming in dig- 'ntied silence their wonderful grandeur. Sorrow was expressed by those here for the first time that we were to rush be- und such inspiring scenes, little dream- ny that they were but a slight introduc- on to beauty unsurpassed. and grand- · ur beyond conception. compared with
which Lake Chelan, in all its glory. is tame and uninteresting.
Wednesday evening the first camp- fire of the season was held, and on Thursday the club visited Rainbow Falls, three miles above Stehekin. Over mossy rocks to the right of the trail. Rainbow creek comes tumbling in a - boiling cascade, then leaps 350 feet through a narrow cleft in the rock, to the Stehekin valley. Professor W. D. Lyman, in speaking of it, says: "It roars and rages, and clouds of spray swish and swirl like a thunder shower. drenching rocks and trees for many yards around. Seldom can one see a fall that gives such an impression of elemental rage. From a hillock we look down into the very heart of the fall. and there, swinging against the mist, is the most perfect rain- bow I ever saw-a complete double cir- cle, the secondary bow brighter than the brightest primary usually seen, while the primary is a perfect blaze of luster. The thrilling roar deepens as we hang over the misty verge, and voices, trampling of armies, clattering of innumerable hoofs. rattling of armor. thunder of artillery. the grandeur and frenzy of conflict. seem to rise from that wild gorge. Mist ed- dies forth and blurs the vision. then falls back, but that dazzling rainbow hangs there unmoved. The bridge of Iris or Heimdall-but no, it is no more a bridge: it is a perfect circle, the sym- bol of eternity."
Before undertaking this trip it had been planned, in the quiet and comfort of a modern office, to spend three days on the way from Stehekin to Horseshoe basin. and in conformity with this plan. we left Stehekin Friday morning for a camp-ground eight miles distant. Staid and steady plans were all very well in the morning, but as we progressed, in- terest increased to astonishment, then gave way to a wild desire to reach the heart of such marvelous grandeur as soon as possible. Passing on over a good mountain trail, through a thick growth of vine maple, along swift waters of the Stehekin, surprised here and there by a rushing torrent or a waterfall, at last we emerge from the bed of the can-
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OREGON NATIVE SON.
REV. GUSTAVU'S HINES, A Pioneer of 1840.
REV. JOSIAH L. PARRISH, A Pioneer of 1840.
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REV. DAVID LESLIE. A Pioneer of 1537.
REV. GEORGE GARY. A Pioneer of 1541.
PIONEER METHODIST MISSIONARIES.
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LAKE CHELAN AND VALLEY OF THE STEHEKIN.
son and stand transfixed with amaze- ment, at the sudden burst of glacier and wow peak that stand before us up the valley of the Agnes. Slowly ascending a steep hill, all thought of weariness is ist in a general adoration of the scene. Passing over the brow of the hill, we ind Howard lake, nestled among trees und rocks, then pass to a delightful mountain stream below, where camp is pitched for the night. Grander and yet. grander the scene appears. Having cen here before, I ventured to say: "It :. better farther up." but no one would believe me, thinking it impossible. Pass- ing to a great rock overlooking the val- lev, an unobstructed view was obtained of Mount Wilkeson, at Bridge creek, numerous glaciers, and beyond all the black, jagged peaks overlooking the .nowy sides of Horseshoe basin. For nearly two hours the party clung to this rock reveling in the scene, and when the ·upper bell was sounded, cast a far- .way, wistful glance, then lingered for a parting look, then for another. re- gardless of empty stomachs and the cook's repeated calls to duty. Scenes of the day banished all idea of travel by stages. "To the winds with your plans. . On to Horseshoe basin," was the ory that night.
Bright and early Saturday morning We were on our way, cheerfully plodding Cong. By.9 o'clock we reached Bridge "cek, where a romantic bridge spans a chasm. and under it rushes with wild frenzy a snow-white stream, bounding From one great boulder to another and boiling in restless fury. Below the rocks nglers plied the fly, while over them the party scrambled, viewing the scene with noisy outbursts of admiration. After two hours we pushed on to Park Trek, where lunch was served and another long rest taken. Resuming the warch, magnificent waterfalls appeared. first on this side, then on that, tumbling trom cliffs hundreds of feet high, on the ups of which were great, grinding gla- fiers limed against the sky. The valley narrowed to a canyon and the walls grew higher. We tread upon beautiful flow- er and listen to songs . of birds over-
head, impressed with the idea that we stand in the gates of Paradise and look Heavenward. Higher and higher the cataracts grow, and become more nu- merous every hour. At last we tread on drifts of snow, lingering in the by-way through summertime.
Again we enter thick underbrush, and. hear the fall of waters we do not see. Now and then the joyful note of a bird is heard, or a woman's voice is raised in song. Suddenly we emerge from the thicket and stand face to face with a vision of beauty unlike those gone be- fore, and yet like them in a way. A great gash is cut in the side of the can- von, and shining above many cataracts, like angels' protecting wings, spread from side to side and disappearing be- vond the mountain, is the pure white face of a glacier, covered with spotless snow, except where deep blue ice lends. its dainty streaks, adding contrast to a surpassingly beautiful scene. Beneath all this. 23 waterfalls come tumbling to the lower basin, a thousand feet below, where again the snow is piled and melt- ing beneath a summer's sun. Still far- ther down the accumulated water is gathered together in a narrow trough between the rocks. and drops to the Ste- hekin in one single leap, first being di- vided by a stray rock lodged in the trough. thus giving us Twin Falls. Above the snow and the ice, the semi- circle is surmounted by sharp minarets and peaks, silhouetted against the blue sky. like the teeth of a saw-and this is Horseshoe basin. Immediately in front of it, close to the Stehekin river. camp is. pitched, and the cooks are preparing supper. Again hunger is forgotten for the time, and we marvel at the glories of nature as revealed all about us. Just across the river is a cataract tumbling from a granite wall 1000 feet high. Again I ventured to say: "It is better farther up," and again got no one to be- lieve it possible. For a week we camped here as the guests of Dame Nature, and reveleck in a lavish display of her handi- work.
Sunday morning we climbed into lower Horseshoe basin, and visited the
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OREGON NATIVE SON.
miners' cabins. then climbed a steep slope to the south, staring, meanwhile, in blank amazement at the indescribable grandeur before us, which increased in magnitude and sublimity with each ad- vancing step. Speechless with astonish- ment at such bewildering splendor, now and again one lingered alone, lost in si- lent adoration, overcome by the glorious scene. Nevertheless, this wonder and admiration increased as glacier after gla-
and listened to the voice of Nature .. ing upon us to worship the Lord ir Almighty, who fashioned the mount ..:: in glory, tinted the flowers and gave . them a delicate sweetness. We tread . . a carpet of beauty and drank in insp:" tion, blended with love for all mankir No criminal can stand upon tin . heights and not feel a love for God :: man; then what must an honest heart doing? The sanctimonious eloquence
Photo by Curtis, Seattle. LUNCH CAMP ON MT. SAHALIE.
cier arose to view beyond those already before us, and peak after peak reared its proud head and rugged sides still beyond. Waterfalls, beautiful flowers, forests and solemn walls of granite were strewn around and about us in lavish splendor. The towering walls of Stehe- kin canyon, that looked so high and mighty from camp, now dwindled into insignificance, and were almost lost from view. So we stood on the battlements,
well-fed preachers, wherein the ora' knows not the difference between :' laws of God and the rules of soci fades into idiotic chattering when ( pared to this wonderful "sermon of mount," delivered from the heart of \ ture. So we spent the Sabbath d then returned to camp, inspired as : prophets of old to glorify Nature at. . Nature's God.
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LAKE CHELAN AND VALLEY OF THE STEHEKIN
At 3 o'clock Monday morning camp a- astir, at 4 breakfast was served and :4:40 we were on our way to scale an
heavy drifts of show. At an elevation of 5100 feet. or just 2000 feet above camp, we came to the lake, which is lo-
'hoto by Curtis, Seattle.
SUMMIT OF MT. SAHALIE.
mmamed peak. Slowly we picked our way over ragged rocks that encumbered he way. until we reached a steep ascent " Doubtful lake, where we encountered
cated in a horseshoe basin, on three sides of which tower almost perpendicu- lar walls, many hundred feet high. The lake itself was still frozen over and cov-
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OREGON NATIVE SON.
ered with snow, except in one place. On the brow of the hill, close to the trail, are two miners' cabins, occupied dur- ing the season of active operations. Like all other places in this region, it is a delightfully romantic spot, 'midst scenes of majestic grandeur. Moving to the right, we passed on, and with no cliff or crag to interfere with walls too steep to scale, we reached an altitude of 6125 feet, beyond which there was no wood to build a fire. As we rounded the sumr.t of this backbone and looked beyond, over a field of glaciers and jagged peaks, with little valleys cut deep in the wil- derness of wild and rugged Nature, our hearts overflowed with gratitude that we were here and permitted to view a scene so unutterably glorious. Dazed with wonder and amazement, every eye was strained, lest some small fragment be lost. We sank upon the heather, crushing its delicate white blossoms,. bent over a sparkling stream of pure ice water and partook of its life-giving nec- tar. The Valley of the Stehekin lay at our feet, and the deep-cut canyon of Cascade creek bore its way to the Skagit in the West. . A fire was built, cocoa and coffee made and lunch served in the most beautiful spot it has ever been my lot to visit, although a lifetime has been spent in the mountains of the Pacific Northwest. A long rest was taken, and at 12 o'clock the upward march was commenced over an unbroken field of snow, extending to the summit, two and one-half miles distant. All day we had been passing around a great mountain of granite, forming the northwesterly. heel of Horseshoe, basin, from which a sharp, ragged, rocky ridge extended en- tirely around the basin. the highest point of which we were endeavoring to reach. Soon after getting under headway our attention was attracted by two mountain goats, or mazamas-an old one and a small kid. They passed leisurely along the ridge above, stopping now and then to watch us, then climbed to the top and passed along the crest, where their white forms were beautifully silhouetted against the deep-blue sky. Quietly they passed over the rocks and disappeared. We
climbed to the place from which they had gone, and at the point of approach found a wide cleft in the rock, into which we climbed and gazed down into Horse- shoe basin, many hundreds of feet be- low. Minarets along the crest beyond seemed even sharper than from the val- ley, whereas rough and broken glaciers glittered in the bright sunlight as jewels in a sea of snow. Here we rested again, absorbed in admiration and wonder: then returned to the snow field and re- sumed our climb. A by-word now passed along the line: "It is better farther up: yes, it is better farther up." And so it proved, in spite of the seeming impossi- bility. Each moment we were more and more enraptured of the scene; each moment more helpless to express the deep emotion of our hearts. Overcome, nonplussed, helpless; in our dire ex- tremity to formulate words to express depth of feeling, we were plunged into hopeless despair, and could only ejacu- late "Wonderful! Wonderful! Wonder- ful!" Steeper and steeper the climb be- came, until at last we loosened great sheets of snow and watched them as they slid far down below. Slowly but surely we approached the rocky peak. until at last it was attained, and we clam- bered up it in single file. for its narrow edge will not permit two persons side by side. Remarkable as the scene had been before, transcendently beautiful and sublime; grand and inspiring be- yond the power of man to comprehend. still a glance beyond the peak and that scene was doubled. Never in the palm- iest days of old were Grecian gods fa- vored as we. I have spent twenty-three consecutive summers in the mountains of the Pacific Northwest, have stood upon Rainier, Hood, Adams, St. Helens and other peaks, and supposed I had witnessed the choicest scenes of the earth, but they all pale before this one. and when compared to it are as the flat and desolate prairie to lordly Rainier. king of mountains. Far off to the South stands Glacier Peak, a giant among snow-clad mountains. To the North i- Baker in similar form and proportions. spreading his white mantle about him
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LAKE CHELAN AND VALLEY OF THE STEHEKIN.
and bidding us welcome. Far off in the him distance of the Northwest the shin- mering waters of the Gulf of Georgia greet us, and on all sides lie in the wild- est confusion a wilderness of snow caps, ragged, jagged, rocky peaks, great bro- ken glaciers, deep furrowed canyons, and over all the splendor of a midsum- mer sun, sparkling here and glinting there, forming one of the most enchant- ing pictures it has ever been the lot of man to witness. Far beyond and a lit- tle to the west of Glacier Peak, veiled in thin vapor, or a haze of smoke, stands our own loved Rainier, lordliest of all. Stately and solemn, standing like a sen- tinel on the outskirts of Paradise, while we poor worms are permitted to crawl to the throne of the Lord and witness his wonderful works. Oh, the glory of it! The inexpressible glory of it! No tongue can tell, no brush portray. God gave to man the power to climb and en- joy the magnificent glories of Nature. then to those who avail themselves of the privilege he extends the richness of his favor and blesses them beyond the rest of mankind, but as they sit near His throne and drink in the wonderful sight. He forever closes their mouths, that they may not tell their brethren why they dimb the mountain peak. Enchanted
It has been said that Colonel Joe Meek held the title of "colone!" by courtesy only. This may be true so far as it was bestowed up to 1854, but if one will take the trouble to look up the history of Oregon of that year it will be found that He was entitled to be so called thence forward. The territorial legislature of 1853-4 passed an act constituting Ore- "on a military district, and required the powernor to divide it into what were 'ermed council districts. Each council district should have one colonel. lieuten- ut-colonel and a major, who should divide their council district into regi- mental districts. The governor was also Erquired to commission all elective offi- Vers.
Washington county was one of these council districts and at the June election
by so peerless a scene, we rested and gazed and thought and struggled with ourselves, in a vain endeavor to compre- hend that which was before us.
"Lo northward-lo, southward, in martial array,
Stand monarchs 'yond monarchs whose crowns fret the sky,
Look westward-the sea at their feet lies asleep;
Look east and behold the far desert's broad sweep.
Now hushed are our boastings; Ah, man! thy life's drama
Seems puny ana vain in the realms of Ma- zama."
Finally the time approached for de- scending, then, agreeable to our cus- tom, the meeting was called to order and business transacted, while the Stars and Stripes and Union Jack floated over- head. The committee on names reported the Indian word "Sahale," meaning "high up," which, on motion, was adopt- ed, and with appropriate ceremonies ap- plied to the hitherto unnamed peak.
The descent then commenced and we reached camp for a 6 o'clock supper, after which everybody was too excited and delighted to retire until midnight had come and gone, during which time happy voices rang through camp con- tinually. W. G. STEEL.
of 1854 elected Mr. Meek colonel of the same, and Governor Davis afterwards issued to him his commission, as the law required. He was therefore as much a colonel as those who have since held and now hold the title by appointment of the governor as commanders of the present regiments of which the Oregon National Guard is composed.
Among the officials of the provisional government in 1845 was James Doug- lass, chief factor of the Hudson's Bay Company, afterwards governor of Brit- ish Columbia, and Sir James, through being knighted by Queen Victoria. He was in that year elected one of the district judges of Vancouver district (Clarke County, Wash.) by the pro- visional government.
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OREGON NATIVE SON.
J. C. HAWTHORNE, M.D., A Pioneer of 1857.
Photo by Davies. JOSEPH A. STROWBRIDGE, A Pioneer of 1852.
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Photo Ly Tollman. SAMCEL A. CLARKE, A Pioneer of 150.
Photo by Tollman. MRS. HARRIET T. CLARKE. A Pioneer of 1551.
THE BRIDGE OF THE GODS.
The traveler passing through the Jorge of the Columbia river sees many lungs that appeal to the senses in var- was ways; the picturesque, the fantastic ..! the grand. What are known as the ascades, especially thrills the lover of nature with the feeling akin to awe. up- 11 viewing the mighty waters foam and tas, as they go surging onward through this forest of boulders there dotting the :wer's bed. Ask the Indian standing by something of the scene, and, if in talk- tive mood, one will be told that a "tanianowis" or spirit bridge once span- ned the river at that spot, beneath which the current flowed unimpired and in sil- ence toward the sea.
The incidents bringing about the downfall of this . traditional structure have led the white man to give it the : ame of "Bridge of the Gods." In all of "w legends of the Indians, the snow jwaks, the water courses and falls either partook of the godlike in nature or were rmed by its power, and formed for a Wason. Of this occurrence there are " veral stories, all having apparently the same foundation, but differing, possibly. · Attit the imaginative .powers of the re- tor. One of the legends concerning .' destruction of the bridge is to the Het that the Wascopum Indians living " its vicinity, who, through the peculiar struction of their 'ilahee' or lands, ·wh lying midway between, had long Mi the balance of power between the lickitat's inhabiting the upper country, od the Chinooks of the Willamette val- These Indians were for peace and 'nity with all, and. though weak in thers, the nations not holding each er in the highest regard. maintained smonious relations with them for fear · v might beconte alies of a rival.
This could not, however, last, and pums should cast their lot and fortunes "h issued an ultimatum that the Was- tth them. They refused to acceed to " demands of either, and in conse-
quence were not allowed peaceful thor- oughfare through the country of either faction. As the Wascopums had to sub- .. sist on salmon to a great extent, they were thus cut off from securing a supply of this fish. then only obtained in the waters of the lower Columbia, or at the "tum-tum," two falls at Celilo. This state of affairs soon reduced them to starvation when they appealed to the Great Spirit for aid. As they had at all times obeyed him, being honest. upright and peaceful, he promised them, through a vision seen by one of their old inen imbued with "tamanowis" or spirit pow- er, that he would make for them a "tum" that would excell all others for opportu- nities to catch the wonted fish.
He told them to get into their canoes and go down the river to the "wau-ko- ma," or Cottonwood Point, on the fifth night from that date, and remain there until the sun had reached its meridian on the day following such going, when they could return, taking care to light no fires or otherwise allow their pres- ence to become known to the Chinooks living below. When all had departed the Great spirit stirred up enmity be- tween "Wi-vee-ast" (Mt. Hood) and "Klick-i-lat" (Mt. Adams), who, in the minds of the Indians, were demi-gods or the home of demi-gods, and they be- gan to throw stones at each other. The bridge lying in line between, was struck by these missiles so often that the dam- age done soon shattered its arch and foundations and it fell with a mighty crash and became the "tum" that was promised. The next day the Wasco -. pums returned home and found the bridge gone and the Cascades in its place, an acceptable change, for the sal- mon now could not pass by them without coming within range of their spears or nets. Since then this part of the Colum- bia has possessed better facilities for catching fish than any other locality thereon.
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OREGON NATIVE SON.
Another version leaves out the salmon and the Indians, confining itself to a duel of stone-throwing between Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams because of a mutual jeal- ousy existing over fair St. Helens, who each sought to win for his bride. Which of the rival gods was successful in his suit, is not made a portion of the story,
only that they fought and through such the bridge was destroyed.
Still another has been beautifully to !! in verse by Samuel A. Clarke, a pioneer of 1850, and one of the best writers a. well as authorities concerning early tinte. an dincidents in the Pacific Northwest The portion of the poem containing the story of the Indian is as fallows:
My people once were many as the bended heads of clover; The red men and their children were like leaves the forest over; They filled the hills and valleys, as the red cones dot the pine; And theirs were all the sunny plains where mountain streams entwine. Their lodges rose in clusters on each river bank and shore, For everywhere the Great Tyeel had given a bounteous store; The antlered elk they hunted where the highest ranges stood; They 'chased the mighty bison through the valley and the wood; For them the shaggy buffalo was pastured on the plain, And marched in thundering columns as they never will again. They feared nor man nor mortal, and worshiped that Tyee, Sahalie 2 and Great Spirit, who made the land and sea. He sent warm breath from far Chinook, to melt the winter's snow, He drove the salmon up the stream as far as they could go; He gave them elk and bison, gave them springs so cold and clear, And lent them cuitons 3 so swift to chase the fallow deer.
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