USA > Pennsylvania > Jefferson County > Brookville > A pioneer history of Jefferson county, Pennsylvania and my first recollections of Brookville, Pennsylvania, 1840-1843, when my feet were bare and my cheeks were brown > Part 62
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39 | Part 40 | Part 41 | Part 42 | Part 43 | Part 44 | Part 45 | Part 46 | Part 47 | Part 48 | Part 49 | Part 50 | Part 51 | Part 52 | Part 53 | Part 54 | Part 55 | Part 56 | Part 57 | Part 58 | Part 59 | Part 60 | Part 61 | Part 62 | Part 63 | Part 64 | Part 65 | Part 66
With these exceptions, all west of the creek in what is now Brock- wayville was a wilderness. East of the creek the bottom land was
* This " Early History of Ridgway" was published in pamphlet form, and is re- published here, revised and corrected.
621
PIONEER HISTORY OF JEFFERSON COUNTY, PENNA.
cleared, and along the road on each side was a log fence. W. D. Murray and the Ingalls family lived near the Pennsylvania depot.
There was no other family or store or industry, to my recollection, in what is now the beautiful town of Brockwayville.
About five miles up the Little Toby, and in Elk County, Mrs. Sarah Oyster kept a licensed hotel, the only licensed tavern in that year out- side of or between Brookville and Ridgway. Near this hotel Stephen Oyster lived and had erected a grist-mill and saw mill. Oyster was postmaster, and the office was named Hellen Mills.
Stephen Oyster's house and mills were alongside or on the pioneer road to this region. The road was surveyed and opened about 1812, and over it the pioneers came to Brandy Camp, Kersey, and Little Toby. The history of the road is something like this : Fox, Norris & Co. owned about one hundred and forty thousand acres of land in this vicinity, and, being desirous to open these lands for settlement, employed and sent a surveyor by the name of Kersey to survey, open a road, and build a mill on their lands.
Kersey and his men started the road on the Susquehanna River near Luthersburg, on the old State road, crossed over Boone's Mountain, reached Little Toby at what is now Hellen, went up the creek seven miles over what is called " Hog-Back Hill" to a point on Elk Creek near where Centreville now is, and then located and built " Kersey Mill."
Kersey had an outfit and a number of men, and erected shanties wherever necessary while at his work. One of these he built on Brandy Camp. Among other necessaries, Kersey had some choice brandy with him. The men longed for some of this brandy, but Kersey kept it for himself. One day, in the absence of Kersey, the cabin burned down.
On Kersey's return he was chagrined, but the men told him that the Indians in the neighborhood had drunk his brandy and burned the shanty. This story had to be accepted, and hence the stream has ever since been called Brandy Camp. " The Travellers' Home Hotel" was on this stream. It was famous for dancing parties, blackberry pies, and sweet cake, but was closed this year and occupied as a private residence by a man named Brown.
Night came upon me at the farm of Joel Taylor, and through nine miles of wilderness and darkness I rode on a walk. There was a shanty at Bootjack occupied by a man named McQuone. From Taylor's to Ridgway was a long ride to me. It was a wearisome time.
I reached Ridgway, a small village then, about nine o'clock P.M. John Cobb was postmaster, and the office was in his store, near where Powell's store is now. My horse knew the route perfectly, and I left all details to her.
Two hotels existed in the village,-the Exchange, kept by David Thayer, near the river, and the Cobb House, kept by John Cobb, on
622
PIONEER HISTORY OF JEFFERSON COUNTY, PENNA.
the ground where Messenger's drug-store now is. Mr. P. T. Brooks was in charge that night. My horse stopped at the Cobb. For some reason the house was unusually full that night, and after supper I expressed to the landlord a doubt about a bed.
Mr. Brooks patted me on the back and said, " Never mind, my son, I'll take care of you, I'll take care of you." Bless his big heart, he did. Boy-like, my eyes and ears were open. I took in the town before leaving it. The only pavement was in front of the Gillis house. I knew of the judge's reputation as a Morgan killer, and I wanted to see where and how he lived. I had seen him in Brookville many a time before that.
There was a board fence around the public square. Charles Mead was sheriff, and lived in the jail. The village had a doctor, one Chambers. The school-teacher was W. C. Niver, afterwards Dr. Niver, of Brockway- ville, Pennsylvania.
Of the village inhabitants then, I can recall these : Judge Gillis, E. C. Derby, M. L. Ross, Henry Souther, Caleb Dill, James Love, J. C. Chapin, Lebbeus Luther, a hunter and great marksman ; Lafe Brigham, 'Squire Parsons, E. E. Crandall, Charles Mc Vean, Judge Dickinson, J. S. Hyde, and Jerome Powell, editor of the Advocate.
I have an old issue of the Advocate of that date, from which I copy two advertisements, one of the coal industry of the county then, and the other on stage and transportation facilities :
"GREAT EXCITEMENT IN THE COAL REGIONS !
" Removal of the Deposits from the Miners' Bank of Fox Township !
" Providence having in days of yore deposited in the above bank a choice supply of coal for the use of mankind, to be drawn as need re- quires, the proprietor is now engaged in removing the funds from bank to his office adjoining, where he will always be ready to distribute liber- ally, at a trifling charge for his services, to those who call, whether Vul- cans, people, or common folks.
" JESSIE KYLER.
" OFFICE OF THE MINERS' BANK OF FOX TOWNSHIP,
November 13, IS51."
"NEW ARRANGEMENT.
" Through and Back by Daylight !
" Having taken the contract for carrying the mail from Bellefonte to Smethport, the subscriber is happy to announce to the travelling public and the world in general that he is going to ' crack her threw' regularly, rain or shine, hot or cold, mud or dust, from this time forth, leaving Smethport every Monday morning, arriving at Ridgway same evening,
623
PIONEER HISTORY OF JEFFERSON COUNTY, PENNA.
passing along so as to reach Bellefonte on Wednesday night. On the return trip leaves Bellefonte on Thursday morning, arrives at Ridgway Friday night, and Smethport Saturday night.
" Good horses and coaches and sober drivers will always be kept on this route.
" A Particular attention will be paid to baggage, which will be carried at my risk where freight is paid. Also, all kinds of errands promptly attended to along the line. Patronage is respectfully solicited. " TOWNSEND FALL.
" CENTREVILLE, July 9, 1852."
I lived in Ridgway and worked on the Advocate, and afterwards in the Reporter office from August, 1854, to September, 1856. Ridgway was then but a village, containing three stores,-J. S. Hyde's, George Dickinson's, and Hall & Whitney's; two hotels, the Exchange and the Ridgway, née Fountain, née Oyster, née Cobb. One grist-mill and a little saw-mill on Elk Creek ; one shoe shop, Parson & Crandall ; one gunsmith, Horace Warner; one blacksmith, Caleb Dill; one tailor, M. L. Ross. Lawyers, Souther, Willis, Chapin, Mickel, and Pattison.
The town was too small and healthy for a physician to remain. There was a school-house near the residence of Caleb Dill, and the winter term of 1854-55 was taught by C. M. Matson, of Brookville, Pennsylvania ; also a court-house and a stone jail. William N. Whitney was postmaster. The town and township contained about eighty-one voters.
The county officers were : President Judge, R. G. White, of Tioga County ; Associate Judges, George Dickinson, of Ridgway, and W. P. Wilcox, of Jones township ; Prothonotary, etc., Charles Horton ; Treas- urer, Jerome Powell ; Sheriff, Alvan H. Head. The commissioners I do not remember.
The following lawyers, afterwards distinguished, then attended the courts : Brown, Curtis, and Johnson, of Warren ; Barrett, Wallace, Mc- Cullough, and Larimer, of Clearfield ; J. G. Gordon, W. P. Jenks, Mc- Cahon, and Lucas, of Jefferson ; and Goodrich and Eldred, of Mckean.
The merchants hauled their goods from Watterson's Ferry, on the Allegheny River, or Olean, New York. Minor Wilcox drove on the road with Charles B. Gillis, Ben. McClelland, and others. In 1855-56 there was one colored teamster in Ridgway,-viz., Charles Matthews. He had a wife, and drove for Sheriff Healy. Although the town water was as pure as the snow on the mountain, yet it did not agree with Charles's stomach. Like other teamsters, he had to take "something a little warmer and stronger."
There was no church edifice of any kind in the town, and but few church members. Sheriff Mead tried to run a Sunday-school, with a few scholars. The pioneer Sunday-school was organized by the Rev. R. L.
624
PIONEER HISTORY OF JEFFERSON COUNTY, PENNA.
Blackmarr, April 14, 1850. The circuit riders of the Methodist church that year were Revs. Shaffer and Colburn. They preached in the court- house, and service was held once in two or four weeks, I cannot recall which. The elder's name was Poisdell. All of these gentlemen were appointed by the Baltimore Conference.
These ministers always travelled on horseback. The horse was usually "bobbed," and you could see that he had a most excellent skeleton. These itinerants all wore leggings, and carried on the saddle a large pair of saddle-bags, which contained a clean shirt, a Bible, and a hymn-book. The sermon was on a cylinder in the head of the preacher, and was ready to be graphophoned at any point or time.
Rev. John Wray was the first Presbyterian minister to regularly " cry aloud" to the people of Ridgway, " Repent, for the kingdom of Heaven is at hand. Come buy wine and milk without money and without price." During my two years' stay he preached regularly once in four or six weeks. He may have had a few female members in his church, but to my observation the people generally preferred the " world, the flesh, and the devil," whiskey and New England rum.
Rev. Wray was the pastor of the Beechwoods church in Jefferson County, and came to Ridgway as a missionary. His first advent was in 1850. He had been a missionary in India for seven years. He was a pleasant, earnest, good Irishman, and always stopped with Mr. Luther. He was small of stature, and rode astride his horse and saddle-bags as stiff and upright as though he were a keg of nails. He died at Brock- wayville in August, 1883, aged eighty-nine years.
J. S Hyde was then a young, active business man. He came to Ridgway " as poor as a church mouse," and died, at a ripe old age, a millionaire. He was ambitious, an untiring worker, and an honorable citizen. In 1855 he twice solicited me to enter his service : I was flattered, but refused, and told him that " a doctor I would be." Mr. Hyde had great force and a habit of carrying his hands in front of him with the " thumbs up," especially if he was in earnest or excited. Whenever his thumbs were up in the presence of any one, there was sure to be some- thing happen,-an explosion of Christian imagination.
Elk County then was one vast wilderness, and was so called on ac- count of the great herds of elks that once roamed through those wilds. There were no elks killed during my residence, but Grandpap Luther told me that in 1852 a drove of twelve or fifteen was found by two hunters near the village, and seven of them were killed. Indians camped near Ridgway as late as 1850 to hunt for elks. Elks are gregarious. Where Portland now is was a great rendezvous for the elks. It was a great wintering-place for them. All other wild animals were numerous. Erasmus Morey told me that in March, 1853, he and Peter Smith killed in one week six full-grown panthers.
625
PIONEER HISTORY OF JEFFERSON COUNTY, PENNA.
The total bounty paid by the county in 1854 for killing wolves and panthers in 1853 was $225.50. There lived on the Smethport pike, be- tween Ridgway and Montmorenci, two hunters with their families,- viz., Bill Easton and Nelse Gardner, the latter the father of James K. Gardner, who now resides in Ridgway.
These men were professionals. Chasing the wild deer was their daily life and delight. They both possessed in a high degree the agile, cat-like step, the keen eye, the cool nerve, and the woodcraft of the " still hunter."
I knew them well, but was not intimate enough to learn the story of their encounters and adventures. The buffaloes that once roamed in great numbers, the beavers that built their dams, and the stately elks that once traversed the forests of Elk are now extinct, and I believe the screaming panther and the prowling wolf can now, too, be so classed.
The pioneers to settle where Ridgway now is were James Gallagher and Enos Gillis. About 1824 they built two log houses and a saw-mill. Gallagher was the pioneer tanner, and built a tannery there in the early thirties. He died February 22, 1850, aged seventy years. James L. Gillis christened the village Ridgway. I came to Ridgway in 1854 by invitation of Jerome Powell, Esq., to work for him on the Advocate. I received eight dollars per month and boarding. I made my home with Lebbeus Luther. His wife was a most excellent cook, tidy, kind, and as neat in her housework as a pink.
About the first of August, 1854, I left Brockwayville for Ridgway. This was the stage era for Ridgway, and I took passage in Murray & Thayer's stage. My fare was one dollar.
The Advocate was a five column to the page paper, each column about eighteen inches long. The press was an old Franklin. We made our own rollers out of glue and molasses. The work on the paper was all done by Mr. Powell, Ben. Dill, and myself. The composing, press-work, and sanctum were all in one room. The paper was in its fifth volume. No. I, vol. i., was issued March 9, 1850. Henry Souther was editor for about one year. Mr. Powell was the pioneer publisher and father of the craft in Elk County.
Some of the happiest days of my life I spent in this old court-house office. True, I was poor and ragged, but I had the confidence of my employer, I was free from cares, and there in that old office in winter's snows and summer's heat, " Happy hearts, happy hearts, with mine have laughed in glee, the charms of which time can never efface."
Mr. Powell was a polite, affable, genial employer, and Ben. Dill was a pleasant associate.
In August, 1854, the supervisors let a job to take the great stumps out of and straighten Main Street. The stumps were removed, and the spring water was brought to the public grounds. An eagle was shot that year near Ridgway that weighed twenty-four pounds.
626
PIONEER HISTORY OF JEFFERSON COUNTY, PENNA.
Elk County then had in the navy of the United States a passed mid- shipman,-viz., J. Henry Gillis,-who, by his bravery and long service, is now a commodore in Uncle Sam's " navee."
James L. Gillis, who lived in Ridgway, was a man of State celebrity. He was absent nearly all the time, lobbying at Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, or at Washington. He was a very interesting man to talk with. I used to go over to his house, when he was at home, to be entertained in an evening.
In 1854 the bridge across Big Toby Creek, now called the Clarion River, was destroyed. William Crawford had the contract for that year and built a new one.
In looking over old copies of the Advocate I used to read advertise- ments something like this :
" HUNTERS .- Several young fawns are wanted. for which a liberal price will be given. Enquire at this office."
In some of the old papers published before 1854, Caleb Dill, of Ridg- way, advertised for elk, something like this : " For a living male elk one year old I will give $50 ; two years old. $75 ; three years old, $100 ; and for a calf three months old, $25." Elk were easily tamed.
In 1854 the principal part of Elk County was covered with white pine and hemlock. Pine-lands could be bought from three to five dol- lars an acre. Hemlock had no value only for farm lands. The bark even was not used for tanning. Pine was about the only timber manu- factured. Tall, straight " pine in lofty pride leaned gloomily on every hill-side."
The streams were alive with pike, sunfish, bass, chubs, magnificent trout, and other fish. Every fall and spring hunters with dogs and fishermen from the adjoining counties and from across the line in New York State would flock to these hills, valleys, and streams for recreation or profit. The principal owners of all this wild land in 1854 lived in Philadelphia,-viz., Ridgway estate, Jones estate, Parker estate, and Fox and Norris estate.
I said in a former article that 1854 was the beginning of Ridgway's stage era. Prior to that time isolated attempts had been made in the establishment of lines, but all the efforts in that direction, with the excep- tion of the Smethport or Townsend Fall's line were failures. I copy an editorial from the Advocate of June 10, 1854, giving a résumé of the stage in operation at that time :
"STAGING .- As an evidence of the rapid increase of the business of this county and of its general prosperity, it is not necessary to refer to every branch of business that is conducted here, but a reference to the single item of staging will make it clear to all that we are a rising nation.
627
PIONEER HISTORY OF JEFFERSON COUNTY, PENNA.
Two years ago there was no mode of communication through these interminable forests except that only true republican way, a 'foot- back,' and wading through the mud up to your knees, at least, into the bargain.
" About that time the pioneer stager of the county, Townsend Fall, coroner of Elk County and landlord in Mckean County, commenced running a one-horse mud-boat from Bellefonte to Smethport. That was considered a great enterprise, and everybody predicted that Fall must get lost in the mud, and his hazardous undertaking would certainly be the ruination of that visionary man. These predictions would probably all have been verified had it not been for the fact that Mr. Fall is one of those live Yankees who is always ready to whittle out a wooden nutmeg while waiting for his horse to gain wind when stuck in the mnd.
" He added another branch of trade to his staging which served to make up the losses that caused him, and assisted him in keeping body, soul, horse, and mud-boat together. He procured a quantity of steel- traps suitable for bears, wolves, and such animals, which he stationed along at intervals, and while waiting for his old horse to browse he could examine them and take care of their contents without losing any time. The furs, skins, and scalps he thus procured soon enabled him to pur- chase another horse and put by the side of the old veteran that had long served him so faithfully.
" From that day his prosperity and the prosperity of the stage in- terests of this region have been rapidly onward. He soon was enabled to get a wagon with a top to it. The first trip was a proud day for Elk County. Now Mr. Fall is running a tri-weekly line of splendid four- horse coaches between Smethport and Ridgway, for particulars of which see advertisement in this paper.
"There is also a weekly line running regularly between here and Bellefonte, and a semi-weekly line between here and Brookville, in connection, by Murray & Thayer, as will be seen by their advertisement in this paper. And with all these stage facilities, we receive no mails oftener than once a week. Where is Uncle Sam with his daily mails ?"
In the stage advertisements of that year each proprietor advertised "sober drivers," otherwise the passenger would never have dreamed that the driver was in a sober condition. The proprietor occasionally drove over the route himself. I do not recall any of the drivers except Jim Clark, of the Brookville line.
One of the pioneers of Ridgway was David Thayer. He was an all- round business man, hotel-keeper, lumberman, and stage man. He was the father of a large family. Henry S. Thayer, living in Ridgway, is his son. He was the proprietor of the pioneer line of stages to Warren and Brockwayville, Pennsylvania.
628
PIONEER HISTORY OF JEFFERSON COUNTY, PENNA.
The following advertisements published at that time speak for them- selves :
"ANOTHER STAGE LINE.
" David Thayer announces to the travelling public that he has taken the contract for carrying the mail between Ridgway and Brookville. He has put on a line of stages, and will run regularly between these two points named. Leaving Brookville every Tuesday morning, and leaving Ridgway every Wednesday morning.
" BROOKVILLE, January 4, 1854."
" SEMI-WEEKLY LINE TO BROOKVILLE.
" The undersigned have commenced running a line of stages between Brookville and Ridgway. Will leave Brookville Tuesday and Friday mornings, arrive at Ridgway same evenings. Will leave Ridgway Wednes- day and Saturday mornings, and arrive at Brookville same evenings. This is a permanent arrangement, and may be relied upon. This line connects at Brookville with daily lines east, south, and west ; and at Ridgway with semi-weekly and weekly lines north and northeast. Good coaches, fast horses, and sober drivers will always be kept on this line.
" MURRAY & THAYER. " June 7, 1854.""
David Thayer had opened a stage line in 1853 through the wilderness to Warren. It failed, but was revived, and a livery stable opened in connection with it in 1854, as you will see in this advertisement.
" STAGE LINE REVIVED.
" The undersigned, having taken the contract for carrying the mail between Ridgway and Warren, will commence running a stage on Satur- day, July 8, and will continue to run it regularly hereafter, going out on Saturdays and back on Sundays as heretofore. This line may be de- pended on, as it will go through every time without fail. Good horses and coaches and sober drivers will always be kept on the route.
" JOSEPH GRANDPREY. WM. CORLEY.
" RIDGWAY, June 30, 1854.
" N. B .- We will also keep on hand Horses and Carriages, so that persons travelling thro' here, and others, can at all times be carried to any point to which they may wish to go.
"G. & C."
This line failed also, and the old horseback method had to be resorted to. There were too many panthers, bears, wolves, etc., on the route and too few people.
629
PIONEER HISTORY OF JEFFERSON COUNTY, PENNA.
" THREE TIMES A WEEK.
" Fall has commenced running his stages three times a week be- tween Ridgway and Smethport. He will leave Smethport every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday morning, and leave Ridgway every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.
" June 10, 1854."
In 1854, Ridgway by stage was "forty miles from anywhere," forty miles from Brookville, forty miles from Warren, and forty miles from Smethport. The pioneer coaches were neither rockaways nor palaces. They were the most ordinary hacks, and the horses could be " seen through," whether sick or well, without the aid of any X-rays.
The roads in spring, summer, and fall were a succession of mud-holes, with an occasional corduroy. Don't mention bad roads now. The male passengers usually walked up the hills.
In the year 1855 a man by the name of Nicholas Collins, from the Centreville region, had a contract to repaint the court-house. The court-house was a frame, and was painted white. The board fence around the square was white, too. He boarded with Mr. Luther, and, with true Christian patience, he and William Lahey painted on the out- side of the building one entire Sunday.
However, the stores were open, the shops, too, and some men were shooting at mark. Our State motto then was, "Virtue, Liberty, and Independence," and evidently the latter part of the motto was lived up to in Ridgway.
In 1855 the county consisted of eight townships,-viz., Benezette, Benzinger, Fox, Gibson, Jay, Jones, Ridgway, and Spring Creek, con- taining a voting population of seven hundred and sixty five. Lumbering was the principal industry.
In 1784, the year in which Pittsburg was surveyed into building lots, the privilege of mining coal in the " great seam" opposite the town was sold by the Penns, at the rate of thirty pounds for each mining lot, ex- tending back to the centre of the hill. This event may be regarded as forming the beginning of the coal-trade of Pittsburg. The supply of the towns and cities on the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers with Pittsburg coal became an established business at an early day in the present century or in 1800. Pittsburg coal was known long before the town became noted as an iron centre.
Down to 1845 all the coal shipped westward from Pittsburg was floated down the Ohio in flat-bottomed boats, in the spring and fall freshets, each boat holding about fifteen thousand bushels of coal. The boats were usually lashed in pairs, and were sold and broken up when their destina- tion was reached. In 1845 steam-towboats were introduced, which took coal-barges down the river and brought them back empty.
630
PIONEER HISTORY OF JEFFERSON COUNTY, PENNA.
The mills in and around Ridgway were the Eagle Valley mill, con- ducted by Isaac Horton, Jr. ; the Elk Creek mill, owned by J. S. Hyde : the Mill Creek mill, owned by Yale & Healey; and the Dickinson mill. In 1855 there were still some remnants of the old boat scaffold at the " Red Mill."
This mill was erected by Judge Dickinson, and painted red. The boarding-house was also red. The boat scaffold was erected in the spring of 1844. The work was done by " Brush" Baxter for John S. Barr and William McMahill. These men built eleven boats that sum- mer, each twenty feet wide and a hundred feet long. Lumber was car- ried to market in them for one dollar per thousand, and fifteen thousand feet was a load. In Pittsburg, Barr and McMahill sold their boats for one hundred dollars each.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.