History of Dakota Territory, volume I, Part 153

Author: Kingsbury, George Washington, 1837-; Smith, George Martin, 1847-1920
Publication date: 1915
Publisher: Chicago, Ill. : S.J. Clarke Publishing Company
Number of Pages: 1198

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Through this beautiful valley meanders a stream of water so cold as to render ice undesirable even at noonday. The temperature of two of the many springs found flowing into it was taken and ascertained to be 44° and 441/2º F. respectively. The next morning, although loath to leave such an enchanting locality, we continued to ascend this valley until gradually, almost imperceptibly, we discovered that we were on the crest of the western ridge of the Black Hills, and instead of being among barren heaths, as might be supposed. we found ourselves winding our way through a little park whose natural beauty may well bear comparison with the loveliest portion of Central Park. Favored as we had been in having Floral Valley for our roadway, to the crest of the Black Hills, we were scarcely less fortunate in the valley which seemed to rise to meet us on the interior slope. A running stream of clear, cool water, the counterpart of that we had ascended the day before, flowed at our feet and pointed out the way before us, while along the banks grew beautiful flowers. surpassed but little in beauty and profusion by their sisters who had greeted us the day before. After advancing down this valley about fourteen miles, our course being almost southeast, we encamped in the midst of grazing whose only fault, if any, was its great luxuriance. Having preceded the main column, as usual, with an escort of two companies of cavalry, K and C, and Lieutenant Wallace's detachment of scouts, I came upon an Indian camp fire still burning, and which, with other indications, showed that a small party of Indians had encamped there the previous night, and had evidently left that morning in ignorance of our close proximity. Believing that they would not move far, and that a collision might take place at any time unless a friendly understanding was arrived at, I sent my head scout, Bloody Knife, and twenty of his braves, to advance a few miles and reconnoitre the valley. This party had been gone but a few minutes when two of Bloody Knife's young men came galloping back and informed me that they had discovered the

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Indian lodges a few miles down the valley, and that Bloody Knife, as directed, had con- cealed his party in a wooded ravine, where they awaited further orders. Taking a com- pany with me, which was afterwards reinforced by the remainder of the scouts and Colonel Hart's company, I proceeded to the ravine where Bloody Knife and his comrades lay con- cealed, and from the crest beyond obtained a full view of the five Indian lodges, about which a considerable number of ponies were grazing. I was able to place my command still nearer to the lodges undiscovered. I then dispatched a guard, the interpreter, with a flag of truce, accompanied by two of our Sioux scouts, to acquaint the occupants of the lodges that we were friendly disposed and desired to communicate with them. To prevent either treachery or flight on their part, I galloped the remaining portion of my advance and surrounded their lodges. This was accomplished almost before they were aware of our presence. 1 then entered the little village and shook hands with the occupants, assuring them, through the interpreter, that they had no cause to fear, as we were not there to molest

them. I invited them to visit our camp, and promised presents of flour, sugar and coffee to all who would accept. This invitation was accepted. At the same time I entered into an agreement with their leading men that they should encamp with us a few days, and give us such information concerning the country as we might desire; in return for which service I was to reward them with rations. With this understanding I left them. The entire party numbered twenty-seven. Later in the afternoon four of the men, including the chief, One Stab, visited our camp and desired the promised rations, saying that the entire party would move up and join us the following morning as agreed upon. I ordered presents of sugar, coffee and bacon to be given them, and to relieve them of their pretended anxiety for the safety of their village during the night, I ordered a party of fifteen of my command to return with them and protect them during the night; but from their great disinclination to wait a few minutes till the party could saddle up, and from the fact that two of the former had already slipped away, I was of the opinion that they were not acting in good faith. In this I was confirmed when the two remaining ones set off at a gallop in the direction of their village. 1 sent a party of our scouts to overtake them, and request them lo return. Not complying with this request, I sent a second party with orders to repeat the request, and if not complied with then to take hold of the bridles of their ponies and lead them back, but to offer no violence. When overtaken by our scouts, one of the two Indians seized the musket of one of the scouts and endeavored to wrest it from him; failing in this, he released his hold, after the scout became dismounted in the struggle, and set off as fast as his pony could carry him, but not before the musket of the scout was discharged. From blood discovered afterward it was evident that either the Indian or his pony was wounded. I hoped that neither was seriously hurt, although the Indians have their own bad faith as the sole ground of the collision. One Stab, the chief, was brought back to camp. The scouts galloped down the valley to the site of the village when it was discovered that the entire party had packed up the lodges and fled, and the visit of the four Indians to our camp was not only to obtain the rations promised them in return for future services, but to cover the flight of the lodges. I have effected arrangements by which the chief, One Stab, will be with us as a guide three days longer, when he will take his departure and rejoin his band. He claims to belong to both Red Cloud's and Spotted Tail's agencies, but has been to neither for a long time. He has recently returned from the hostile camp on Powder River, and represents that the Indians lost ten killed in their fights with the Bozeman exploring party.

The creek which led us down into the interior of the Black Hills is bordered by high bluffs, on the crests of which are located prominent walls of solid rock, preventing here and there the appearance of castles constructed of masonry. From this marked resem blance 1 have named this stream "Castle Creek." The direction of Castle Creek having commenced to lead us more to the northeast than we were prepared to go, and the valley having become narrow and broken. I left this water course and ascended the valley of a small tributary, which again gave us a southeasterly course. After a march of fourteen miles we encamped on a small creek furnishing us an abundance of water and grass The direction of this creek was nearly cast On the 30th I moved in continuation of our previous course, and through a fine open country covered with excellent grazing. After a march of over ten miles we encamped early in the day about five miles from the base of Harney's l'eak, finding water, grass and wood abundant, with springs of clear, cool water running through camp. On the following day the command remained in camp, except the explor ny parties sent out in all directions. With a small party I proceeded to Harney's Peak, and after great difficulty made the ascent to its crest. We found this In be the highest post in the Black Hills. From the highest point we obtained a view of Rear Butto, in the north part of the plains, to the east far beyond the Chevenne River. Our parts did not reach camp till near t o'clock that night, but we were amply repaint for our labor by the mis nificence of the views obtained. While on the highest point we drank the health veteran after whom the peak was named. On the 1st of August we moved camp a tes miles simply to obtain fresh grass, still keeping near the base of the bulls to the east of the This morning I dispatched two companies under Colonel Hart in a southeasterls direct to extend our explorations of the south fork of the Cheyenne River Tom rrow Frites at 5 o'clock I will set out with five companies of cavalry and emleavor to reach th stream in a southwesterly direction from Harney's Peak. Reynolds, the se ut when

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carry this dispatch to Fort Laramie, will go with us as far as we go in that direction, when he sets out alone to reach his destination, traveling mainly by night.

The country through which we have passed since leaving the Belle Fourche River has been generally open and extremely fertile. The main portion, or that passed over since entering the unexplored portion of the Black Hills, consists of beautiful parks and valleys through which flows a stream of clear, cold water, while bounding these parks or valleys there are invariably found unlimited supplies of timber, much of it being capable of being made into good lumber. In no portion of the United States. not excepting the famous Blue Grass region of Kentucky, have I ever seen grazing superior to that found growing in this hitherto unknown region. I know of no portion of our country where Nature has done so much to prepare homes for the husbandmen, and left so little for the latter to do as here. In the open and timbered spaces a partly prepared farm of almost any dimensions, of an acre and upward, can be found here. Not only is the land, cleared and timbered, both for fuel and building, conveniently located, with streams of pure water flowing through its length and breadth, but Nature oftentimes seems to have gone further and placed beautiful shrubbery and evergreens in the most desirable locations for building sites. While on Harney's Peak I could contrast the bright green verdure of these lovely parks with the sun- burned and dry yellow herbage to be seen on the outer plains. Everything indicates abundance of moisture within the space enclosed by the Black Hills.

The soil is that of a rich garden, and composed of a dark mold of exceedingly fine grain. We have found the country in many places covered with wild raspberries, both the black and red varieties. Yesterday and today we feasted on the latter. It is no unusual sight to see hundreds of soldiers gathering wild berries. Nowhere in the States have I tasted raspberries of equal flavor to those found growing wild here, nor have I ever seen them as large or in as great profusion. Wild strawberries, wild currants, gooseberries and wild cherries are also found in great profusion and of exceedingly pure quality. Cattle would winter in these valleys without other food or shelter than that to he obtained from running at large. As there are scientists accompanying the expedition, who are exam- ining into the mineral resources of this region, the result of whose researches will accom- pany my detailed report, I omit all present reference to that portion of our explorations until the return of the expedition, except to state what will appear in any event in the public prints. that gold has been found in several places; and it is believed by those who are giving special attention to this subject, that it will be found in paying quantities. I have upon my table forty or fifty small particles of pure gold, in size averaging a small pin-head, and most of it obtained today from one pan full of earth. As we have never remained in our camp more than one day, it will be readily understood that there is no opportunity to make a satisfactory examination in regard to deposits of valuable minerals. Veins of lead and strong indications of silver have been found. Until further examination is made regarding the richness of the gold, no opinion should be formed. Veins of what the geologists call gold-bearing quartz crop out on almost every hillside. All existing geological or geograph- ical maps of this section have been found incorrect. This will not seem surprising when it is remembered that both have been compiled by guess-work and without entering the country intended to be represented. The health of the command continues excellent. I will begin my northward march in four days from this date. I do not expect to arrive at Fort Lincoln until the 31st of August.

G. A. CUSTER,

Brevet Major General, Commanding Expedition.

Postscript .- 10.30 P. M., August 3d .- I left our main camp at Harney's Peak at 6 o'clock this morning, with five companies of cavalry, and after a march in a southerly direction for forty-five miles, reached the south fork of the Cheyenne River at the mouth of a creek flowing from the north and emptying into the Cheyenne midway between the months of Hot and Horsehead creeks. From this point Reynolds, the scout, sets out, in one hour, with this dispatch for Fort Laramie. I reached here at 9 P. M., and will proceed to Harney's Peak by a different route tomorrow morning. The country between here and Harney's Peak is generally open and rolling, and excepting the southeastern portion, covered with excellent grass.

G. A. CUSTER, Brevet Major General, Commanding.

The third dispatch gives further testimony regarding the valuable natural resources of the hills country, and tells of his return journey. The third com- munication follows :

Headquarters Black Hills Expedition. Bear Butte, D. T., via Bismarck, August 15th.

To Assistant Adjutant General, Department of Dakota, St. Paul, Minnesota. My last dispatch was written on the 2d and 3d instant, and sent from the south fork of the Cheyenne, from a point on the latter nearest to Fort Laramie.

On the morning of the 4th instant I began my return march to our main camp, near Har-

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ney's Peak, arriving there by a different route on the 6th. On the morning of the 7th thie expedition began its march northward, Bear Butte being our next objective point. We advanced without serious obstacle until within ten or twelve miles of Bear Butte, when we found our further progress barred by a high range of impassable hills. We attempted to effect a passage through some one of the many valleys whose water courses ran directly through the hills in the desired direction, but in every instance we were led into deep broken cañons impassable even for horsemen. Through one of these I made my way on foot, and from a high point near its mouth obtained a view of the plains outside, Retracing my steps, I placed the command in camp in a fine valley, in which it had halted, and devoted the remainder of the day to a further search for a practicable route through the hills. The result decided me to follow down a water course which led us first toward the south an ! afterwards toward the east. This stream proved to be Elk Creek, the valley of which, as well as the stream itself, proving at least equal in beauty and extent to any passed through during our march. We camped twice on this stream, and as far as we proceeded on its course, we had a most excellent road ; but finding that like nearly all other streams leaving the hills, its course would take us into a canon which could be made barely practicable for our wagons, I searched for and discovered a narrow gap in the rocky wall which forms the northern boundary of the valley, and which was conveniently large enough to allow our wagons to pass through. A march of an hour up a gradual ascent and through a pine forest brought us to a beautiful park containing thousands of acres and from which we obtained a fine view in the distance of our old acquaintance, the plains. Here we pitched our tents for the last time in the Black Hills. Nearly everyone being loath to leave a region which had been found so delightful in every respect. Behind us the grass and foliage were clothed in green of the freshness of May. In front of us, as we cast our eyes over the plains below, we saw nothing but a comparatively dried surface, the sunburnt pasturage of which offered a most uninviting prospect both to horse and rider, when remembering the rich abundance we were leaving behind us. A march of twenty-six miles, gradually bearing northward, brought us to the base of Bear Butte, at which point I concluded to remain one day before beginning our return march.

I propose to return by a different, although not perhaps a shorter route, than that adopted in coming to the Black Hills. I am induced to make this change in order to cover a larger extent of unexplored country within the limits of our explorations, and particularly to enable us to locate as much as possible of that portion of the Little Missouri of which nothing is now known. I expect the expedition to reach Fort Lincoln on the 31st of August. The health of the command has been, and is, most excellent.

This expedition entered the Black Hills from the west side, penetrated through the eastern and most southern ranges, explored the major portion of the interior, and passed out the most castern ranges which form the boundary of the Black Hills. From the fact that in all our principal marches through the Black Hills we have taken without serious obstacle a train of over one hundred heavily laden wagons, it may be inferred that the Black Hills do not constitute the impenetrable region heretofore represented. In entering the Black Hills from any direction, the most serious, if not the only obstacles, were encountered at once near the outward base. This probably accounts for the mystery which has so long existed regarding the character of the interior. Exploring parties have con- tented themselves with marching around the exterior base, and from the forbidding aspect of the hills, as viewed from a distance, inferred that an advance toward the interior would only encounter increasing obstacles.

In regard to the character of the country enclosed by the Black Hills I can only repeat what I have stated in previous dispatches. No portion of the United States can beast of 2 richer or better pasturage, purer water. the natural temperature of which in midsummer as it flows from the earth is but 12º F. above the freezing point, and of greater aulvan tages generally to the farmer or stock raiser than are to be found in the Black Hills Building stone of the best quality is to be found in inexhaustible quantities. Wood for fuel, and lumber sufficient for all time to come. Rains are frequent, with no evidence in th country of either drouth or freshets. The season, perhaps, is too short, and the nights too cool for corn, but I believe all other grain could be produced here in wonderful abundance. Wheat would particularly yield largely.

There is no doubt of the existence of various minerals throughout the hills, as th subject has received the special attention of experts who accompany the expedition and will be reported upon in detail. I will only mention the fact that iron and plumbago have been found and heds of gypsum of apparently inexhaustible extent.

I referred in a former dispatch to the discovery of gold. Subsequent examinations at various points confirm and strengthen the fact of the existence of gold in the Black Hills On some of the water courses almost every panful of earth produced gold in small 1 it paying quantities. Our brief halts and rapid marching prevented anything but a very laws examination of the country in this respect, but in one place, and the only one withen av knowledge, where so great a depth was reached, a bole was dug eight fect in de th 1 miners report that they found gold among the roots of the grass, and fr in tit to the lowest point reached gold was found in paying quantities It has not fretime] et expert to find gold in the Black Hills, as men without former experience in m ft y discovered it at an expense of but little time and labor. As an evidence

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turage to be found in this region, I can state the fact that my beef herd, after marching upwards of six hundred miles, is in better condition than when I started, being now as fat as is consistent with marching conditions. The same may be said of the mules of the wagon train. The horses of the command are in good working condition. I have never seen as many deer as in the Black Hills; elk and bear have also been killed. We have had no collision with hostile Indians.

G. A. CUSTER, Brevet Major General, U. S. A., Commanding Expedition.

CHAPTER LXIX THE ARMY VAINLY OPPOSES RUSH TO THE BLACK HILLS

1875

CUSTER'S REPORTS AWAKEN WIDESPREAD INTEREST-A STATEMENT FROM THE INTERIOR DEPARTMENT-THE GOVERNMENT AUTHORITIES INCLINE TO TREAT FOR THE HILLS COUNTRY-THE INDIANS WILLING BUT WANT MANY MILLIONS- FIRST WHITE INVADERS START FROM SIOUX CITY IN 1874-IN 1875 THE RUSH OVERFLOW'S ALL IMPEDIMENTS-DAKOTANS HOLD A BLACK HILLS MEETING- INDIAN DELEGATIONS CALLED TO WASHINGTON-PRESIDENT GRANT TALKS TO THIE SIOUX-EFFORTS TO AGREE UPON A TREATY FUTILE-DAKOTANS SUBMIT A STATEMENT COVERING THE INTERESTS OF THE PUBLIC-SPOTTED TAIL AND OTHERS SUBMIT THEIR VIEWS-RIGHT REVEREND BISHOP HLARE WRITES A LETTER.

Custer's expedition and the official reports of the general, together with those of the scientific gentlemen who accompanied him, confirmed all former reports of the auriferous character of the country, and furnished much more of a val- uable nature, that made the acquisition of the country appear more desirable than had been the case previous to his expedition. The information obtained from his observations and practical investigations was relied upon as authentic, and its effect was to arouse a popular desire, manifold more ardent and aggress- ive than heretofore, to possess the country. It was the first discovery of an extensive gold field in the United States in such proximity to the settled portions of the country and easy of access. No obstacles were in the way of its occupa- tion except its Indian ownership, and up to this time these proprietors of the land had held it as sacred soil, priceless, and the Government had promised by its treaties to protect them in such ownership though they occupied but a small portion of it and then only temporarily and occasionally.

The discovery of gold gave California a population of about a quarter million in two years time; and a like discovery led the rapid settling up of Colorado and Montana. The Montana prospectors spread abroad through the mountainous por- tions of that territory, and were conjecturally among the first to venture chan- destinely to the Black Hills. It did not need Custer's expedition to settle the fact of the existence of gold in paying quantities in the minds of the people of the then frontier of Dakota, Wyoming, and Montana, for it was through them and their influence and agitation that the Government took up the matter of securing the country for white occupation.

The Indians held title to the country but its material resources were of little value to them, and useless to the world, while the Indians hohl it They knew nothing of mining : all they knew was the fact that the hills were a gold bearing country and were covered by the whites for that reason. They knew that goll was among the most valuable commodities, at least so generally considered, and they had concluded that the Black Hills were worth an immense amount of money . -millions, tens of millions-scores of millions ; at the same time knowing huil of the amount expressed by the term millions.

The Government had made a treaty promising to respect and d to 1 the Indian possessory occupation of the hills region, and made the treaty 1 1

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tionably in good faith, but in this instance it would seem that it had counted with- out its host ; and the only just remedy for the situation was a further agreement with the Indians for the relinquishment of their title to the country.

This was then the situation shortly following the return of Custer and the preliminaries for the accomplishment of this purpose were planned and set to work. The Government having quietly concluded that a cession of the hills country was demanded in the interest of the public welfare, it proceeded to the execution of its plan, which is revealed in pages following.

The bureau of Indian affairs, which at that time was under the direction of Edward P. Smith, commissioner, issued a circular to the various Indian agents in Dakota in April, 1875, as one of the early steps to acquaint the Indians with their absoltite dependence on the Government for their material support and indicating a stricter enforcement of existing treaty stipulations. The follow- ing gives the text of the circular :

Department of the Interior, Office of Indian Affairs, Washington, D. C., April 13, 1875.

Sir: It is the settled policy of the Government to induce the Indians to recognize, in a practical way, at the earliest day possible, the inevitable necessities which are upon them to abandon their nomadic habits and enter upon some calling by which they may eventually become self-supporting.

To this end Congress has incorporated a clause in the act making appropriations for the Indian service for the present fiscal year, which requires "all able-bodied male Indians between the ages of eighteen and forty-five to perform service upon the reservation for the benefit of themselves or of the tribe, at a reasonable rate, to be fixed by the agent in charge, and to an amount equal in value to the supplies to be delivered."

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History of Dakota Territory, volume I, Part 153

Author: Kingsbury, George Washington, 1837-; Smith, George Martin, 1847-1920 Publication date: 1915 Publisher: Chicago, Ill. : S.J. Clarke Publishing Company Number of Pages: 1198

Author: Kingsbury, George Washington, 1837-; Smith, George Martin, 1847-1920
Publication date: 1915
Publisher: Chicago, Ill. : S.J. Clarke Publishing Company
Number of Pages: 1198