USA > Washington > Benton County > History of the Yakima Valley, Washington; comprising Yakima, Kittitas, and Benton Counties, Vol. I > Part 1
USA > Washington > Kittitas County > History of the Yakima Valley, Washington; comprising Yakima, Kittitas, and Benton Counties, Vol. I > Part 1
USA > Washington > Yakima County > History of the Yakima Valley, Washington; comprising Yakima, Kittitas, and Benton Counties, Vol. I > Part 1
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GEN
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY
3 1833 01103 7733
GC 979.701 Y11L V.1
CHARLES F BOLIN
CHARLES F BOLIN
HISTORY
of the
Yakima Valley
Washington
Comprising
Yakima, Kittitas and Benton Counties
-
By PROFESSOR W. D. LYMAN
Illustrated
VOLUME I
THE S. J. CLARKE PUBLISHING CO. 1919
1369772 PREFACE
In presenting this work to the public the author desires to make acknowledg- ments to the many in different parts of the field whose assistance in the collection of data has been indispensable to accuracy and interest. Special mention is due to members of the Advisory Board. Inasmuch as a little change has occurred since the issuance of the prospectus, it is proper to name here the members of the Board as finally settled. They include Messrs. A. E. Larson, H. J. Snively, F. C. Hall, Fred Parker, A. W. Coffin, David Longmire, L. V. Mcwhorter, of Yakima; Prof. Selden Smyser, Miss Mary A. Grupe, Mrs. J. B. Davidson, Oliver Hinman, Hon. Austin Mires and Judge Ralph Kauffman, of Ellensburg; Messrs. A. G. McNeill and G. W. Hamilton, of Prosser ; Messrs. L. E. Johnson, J. J. Rudkin, E. M. Sly and A. R. Gardner, of Kennewick.
To the intelligent and helpful cooperation of these advisers a great debt of thankfulness is due. Gratitude is also owed to those who have contributed special articles for the last chapter, that of "Recollections." These articles, as well as the names of the authors, speak for themselves. After reading them, the readers will unquestionably add their thanks to our own for these essential additions to the value and interest of the book.
Others have added data and suggestions of great value, and to them we make our acknowledgments in the body of the work. We wish, however, to include here the name of Mr. Gerrit d'Ablaing, of Ellensburg, as having .provided a large amount of invaluable material in written form.
Special note may be made of the hearty cooperation of the newspaper men all over the field. Every newspaper in the three counties has been consulted. They and their publishers and editors appear in full in the chapter on "The Press of the Yakima Valley," and need not be particularized here. Specific mention may be made, however, of files of the earliest Yakima and Ellensburg papers loaned by Mr. C. B. Bagley, of Seattle, some of them probably the only copies in existence, part of what is doubtless the most complete collection of newspaper files in the State.
The author desires also to include in his note of thanks the valuable aid of his wife in reading and correcting manuscript and proofs, and thus greatly expe- diting the preparation of the work.
It may be added that, in the conception of the author, a work of this nature must deal with the great vital general features of growth and development rather than with the minutiæ of special interests. He has, therefore, avoided the encyclopedic method of treatment into which local histories sometimes fall. A work of this kind cannot, in his judgment, be a gazetteer or a volume of statistics. The end sought has rather been a portrayal of the great working forces, which, throughout the West-and in this instance in the Yakima Valley-have planted
iv
PREFACE.
American civilization in the wilderness and transformed the desert into the realms of beauty and productiveness which compose the scene of our story.
It will be observed that a topical method of arrangement has been followed.
In the opinion of the author this is conducive to distinctness and unity of impression. It involves a few repetitions. These, it is believed, will not be a blemish, but will rather enhance the force of the connections of the different phases of the story.
Grand and beautiful in its natural features, the Yakima Valley has become inspiring by its exemplification of the results of the industry and intelligence of its inhabitants. We leave it, therefore, in this good year of 1918, in the full assurance that its development, great as it is, has but begun.
t:
CONTENTS
PART I
CHAPTER I.
PHYSICAL AND ABORIGINAL HISTORY.
PHYSICAL AND GEOLOGICAL FEATURES- GEOLOGY OF THE YAKIMA VALLEY, BY MISS RUTH JOHNSON-IN THE EOCENE PERIOD GEOLOGY OF YAKIMA VALLEY, AS DESCRIBED BY GEORGE OTIS SMITH-PRE-TERTIARY PERIODS-TERTIARY PERIOD -EOCENE EPOCH-PRE-TERTIARY ROCKS-EASTON SCHIST-PESHASTIN FORMA- TION-YAKIMA BASALT- GOLD-QUARTZ VEINS-NICKEL AND QUICKSILVER- COAL-BUILDING STONE-ARTESIAN WATER-KITTITAS VALLEY 33
CHAPTER II
THE NATIVE RACES OF CENTRAL WASHINGTON
THE NATIVE RACES OF CENTRAL WASHINGTON-LITERATURE OF INDIAN LIFE -- AN INDIAN DEMOSTHENES-CLAIMANTS SATISFIED; SCALP SAVED-INDIAN MYTHOLOGY-INDIAN NAMES-INDIAN MYTHS-STUDENTS OF INDIAN MYTHS-ARCHEOLOGY OF THE YAKIMA VALLEY 74
CHAPTER III
ERA OF DISCOVERY
DAYS OF FIRST DISCOVERY-TIIE "ERA OF LIARS"-RUSSIA WAKES UP -- SPAIN'S OPPORTUNITY-HECETA'S ACCOUNT-ACTUAL DISCOVERY OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER-FUR TRADE BEGINS-THE COLUMBIA REDIVIV.1-THE GEOGRAPHICAL SPHINX-THE SIZE OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER 103 1
CHAPTER IV
EXPLORATIONS BY LAND
EXPLORATIONS BY LAND-LOUISIANA PURCHASE-LEWIS AND CLARK EXPEDITION- INDIAN'S VAPOR BATHS-MEASURING THE RIVERS-START ON RETURN JOURNEY -JEFFERSON'S TRIBUTE TO CAPTAIN LEWIS. 120
vi
CONTENTS
CHAPTER V
ERA OF TRAPPERS, HUNTERS AND TRAIL-MAKERS
STARTING OF THE FUR TRADE-PROFITS OF THE BUSINESS-AMERICAN FUR COM- PANIES-FOUNDING OF ASTORIA-THE FREE TRAPPERS-RECORD OF DISASTER- SOME STORIES OF THE FUR TRADERS-ROSS' STORY-HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY- THE BOATS OF THE TRADERS-LATER AMERICAN FUR TRADERS-SOME UNIQUE
FREE TRAPPERS 131
CHAPTER VI
THE MISSIONARY PERIOD
THE "BOOK OF LIFE"-FIRST CHRISTIAN CRUSADERS-MRS. WHITMAN'S DIARY- THE WHITMAN CONTROVERSY-LOVEJOY'S LETTER-WHITMAN'S LETTER TO SECRETARY PORTER-MRS. PRINGLE ON WHITMAN-THIE WHITMAN MASSACRE -ST. JOSEPH MISSION BURNED 166
CHAPTER VII
COMING OF THE IMMIGRANTS
FIRST COMERS-GOVERNMENT EXPEDITIONS-THE GREAT IMMIGRATION-FIRST IMMIGRATION THROUGH YAKIMA-GEORGE H. HIMES' LETTER TO EZR.A MEEKER-WINTHROP'S DESCRIPTION OF SCENERY AND OF ADVENTURES-TIIE PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT 193
CHAPTER VIII
PERIOD OF INDIAN WARS
MEEKER-STEVENS CONTROVERSY-WAR CHIEFS OF THE INDIANS-THE CAYUSE WAR-"LAWYER -DIAGRAM OF RESERVATION AND ORDER OF WITHDRAWAL- OUTBREAK OF WAR-BOLON MURDER-BATTLES IN YAKIMA-DISCORD BETWEEN VOLUNTEERS AND REGULARS-WALLA WALLA CAMPAIGN-VICTORY OF THE VOLUNTEERS-AFTERMATIE OF THE WARS-THE DEATH OF LESCHI-AA NEW ORDER OF THINGS-STEPTOE'S DEFEAT-END OF THE WAR-NEZ PERCE WAR IN THE WALLOWA, IN 1877-TIIE PERKINS MURDER-STORY OF EARLY DAYS : CHIEF MOSES SHOWN IN HIS TRUE LIGHT-TREATY WITH THE YAKIMAS, 1855 222
vii
CONTENTS
PART II
CHAPTER I
ERA OF EARLY GROWTH AND THE MOTHER COUNTY
FIRST SETTLEMENTS-FIRST REAL SETTLER-DEALING WITH THIEVING INDIANS- GROWING SETTLEMENT-MINING IN YAKIMA VALLEY-SOME CHARACTERISTIC STORIES OF OLD TIMES 266
CHAPTER II
COUNTY MAKING AND OFFICIAL RECORDS OF THE MOTHER COUNTY OF YAKIMA
AN ACT ESTABLISHING AND ORGANIZING YAKIMA COUNTY-ELECTION OF 1876- ELECTION OF 1884-ELECTION OF 1888-FIRST ELECTION OF UNITED STATES SENATOR-ELECTION OF 1892-ELECTION OF 1912-ELECTION OF 1916 GOVERNORS OF TERRITORY-TERRITORIAL DELEGATES IN CONGRESS-OTHER OFFICIALS UNDER TERRITORIAL GOVERNMENT-ADDRESSES BY EX-GOVERNOR MOORE AND GOVERNOR FERRY-FINANCIAL STATEMENT-YAKIMA EXPORT PRODUCTION-SOME CONCLUDING STATISTICS 283
CHAPTER III
THE TRANSPORTATION AGE
THE STEAMBOAT ERA-OREGON STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY-CAPTAINS, PILOTS, AND PURSERS-THE PIONEER STAGE LINES-THE RAILROAD AGE-THE WAR ON THE RAILROAD THE GREAT BOOM-NEW RAILWAY LINES-THE INTERURBAN RAILWAYS-WATER TRANSPORTATION 329
CHAPTER IV
IRRIGATION IN THE VALLEY
IRRIGATION LAWS-AN ACT REGULATING IRRIGATION AND WATER RIGHTS-RECLAMA- TION ACT-PRIVATE IRRIGATION SYSTEMS-LATER AND LARGER PRIVATE CANALS -IRRIGATION IN THE KITTITAS-THE SUNNYSIDE CANAL-COWICHIE AND WIDE HOLLOW IRRIGATION DISTRICT-THE CONGDON DITCH, OR YAKIMA VALLEY CANAL-THE WAPATOX CANAL-NACIIES-SELAII CANAL-KONNEWOCK CANAL -LATER HISTORY OF IRRIGATION IN THE LOWER VALLEY-RICHLAND, HANFORD AND WHITE BLUFFS SECTIONS-SUMMARY OF PRIVATE ENTERPRISES-GOVERN- MENT PROJECTS-STATE PROJECTS-DESIGNATION OF UNITS-SUNNYSIDE PROJECT AND EXTENSIONS-THE STORAGE SYSTEMS-COMPLETION OF THE
viii
CONTENTS
TIETON PROJECT-COST OF TIETON SYSTEM-THE LAKE RESERVOIRS-BUMPING LAKE RESERVOIR-KACHESS LAKE RESERVOIR-LAKE KEECHELUS RESERVOIR- LAKE CLE ELUM RESERVOIR-ACREAGE UNDER GOVERNMENT PROJECT-SOME OF THE POETRY OF IRRIGATION-ANNOUNCEMENTS, ETC. 347
CHAPTER V
FOUNDING AND MUNICIPAL GROWTH OF NORTH YAKIMA
MOVING THE CITY-ABSTRACT OF N. P. R. R. LANDS FOR TOWNSITE OF NORTH YAKIMA-TRUSTEE PROPERTY, NORTH YAKIMA-PRESENT RESIDENTS WIIO MOVED-A TOUGH PLACE AT FIRST-THE CITY CHARTER-POWERS OF TIIE CORPORATION-GOVERNMENT-ELECTION-THE MAYOR, HIS POWERS AND DUTIES-ORDINANCES-MISCELLANEOUS PROVISIONS-SOME STEPS IN MUNICI- PAL LIFE-MANY PIONEER BUILDINGS LEFT AFTER TWENTY-FIFTHI BIRTHDAY ANNIVERSARY-TO KEEP OPEN HOUSE-FIRST DRUG STORE-TWO FACTIONS- AN ACT TO REMOVE COUNTY SEAT FROM YAKIMA CITY TO NORTH YAKIMA- ADVERTISEMENTS FROM "HERALD"-"TO THE READING PUBLIC"-INVITATION PARTY-NORTH YAKIMA, ITS RAPID GROWTH AND ITS RESOURCES: FROM THE 392 PORTLAND "OREGONIAN"
CHAPTER VI
SCHOOLS, CHURCHES AND SOCIETIES OF YAKIMA
SCHOOLS-STATISTICS OF 1918-DIRECTORY OF TEACHERS, 1917-18-PRIVATE SCHOOLS-WOODCOCK ACADEMY-THE CHURCHES-AHTANUM-CHURCHES AND PASTORS OF YAKIMA AT PRESENT DATE-FRATERNAL ORDERS-YAKIMA COMMERCIAL CLUB-THE STATE FAIR-"REPUBLIC'S" WRITE-UP OF FAIR- HERALD'S DESCRIPTION OF EVENTS, ETC. 454
CHAPTER VII
THE PRESS OF THE YAKIMA VALLEY
THE FIRST PAPER-ADVS. IN THE FIRST ISSUE OF THE "RECORD"-THE "SIGNAL" -- THE "LOCALIZER"-DEATH OF D. J. SCHNEBLY-THE "SPECTATOR" AND ITS EDITORS-LATER NEWSPAPERS AND SPECIAL PUBLICATIONS OF YAKIMA AND ELLENSBURG-TRANSIENT PAPERS OF YAKIMA AND ELLENSBURG-PAPERS OF THE OTHER TOWNS-THE PRESS IN THE SMALLER TOWNS OF YAKIMA COUNTY -THE PRESS IN BENTON COUNTY-PROSSER PAPERS-INDIAN, CAYUSE AND COYOTE-IRRIGATED LANDS NEAR PROSSER-TIIE NORTHERN PACIFIC COMPANY -PROSSER-PROSSER'S WATER POWER-HORSE HEAVEN COUNTRY-KIONA AND BENTON CITY PAPERS-KENNEWICK PAPERS-KENNEWICK ON THE COLUMBIA 496
ix
CONTENTS
CHAPTER VIII
THE YAKIMA INDIAN RESERVATION
OUTLINE OF HISTORY OF THE RESERVATION-ALLOTMENT OF LAND IN SEVERALTY -- IRRIGATION ON THE RESERVATION-FACTS FROM GOVERNMENT REPORTS- STORAGE WATER-PRINCIPAL CROPS-CENSUS OF CROPS. 1916-17-18-WHAT CHIEF WATERS SAYS-INDIANS ARE WELL PLEASED-EQUAL RIGHTS WITH WHITES-EXTRACTS FROM ARTICLE BY SUPERINTENDENT S. A. M, YOUNG __ 539
PART III
CHAPTER I
COUNTY DIVISION AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE TWO YOUNGER COUNTIES
BEGINNINGS IN THE KITTITAS VALLEY
FIRST SETTLERS-WHEELER BLOCK-HOUSE-BEGINNINGS OF IMPROVEMENTS- ROADS AND BRIDGES-IRRIGATION-MILLS-DEVELOPMENT OF MINERAL RE- SOURCES-COAL-BEGINNINGS OF STOCKRAISING AND FARMING-CORRESPOND- ENCE FROM THE "STANDARD"-"TENDERFOOT" TAKES A TRIP-TOWN AND COUNTY-LETTER FROM SWAUK-HISTORY OF KITTITAS VALLEY, BY THE SIXTH GRADE, EDISON SCHOOL, ELLENSBURG 563
CHAPTER II
POLITICAL HISTORY AND LATER DEVELOPMENT OF KITTITAS COUNTY
COUNTY DIVISION-EDITORIALS-THE GRUMBLING FEW-A LOGICAL OPINION-PE- TITION FOR DIVISION-TO ALL PERSONS WHOM IT MAY CONCERN-AN ACT TO CREATE AND LOCATE THE COUNTY OF KITTITAS-PAY OF COUNTY OFFICERS- AN ACT TO CHANGE BOUNDARY LINE BETWEEN KITTITAS AND YAKIMA COUN- TIES-INAUGURATION OF THE NEW COUNTY-FIRST COUNTY-ELECTION REC- ORDS-STATEHOOD-WALLA WALLA STATESMAN'S REVIEW OF FUSIONIST CON- VENTION, 1898-BRYAN'S VISIT-WOMAN SUFFRAGE-CONSTITUTIONAL AMEND- MENTS-ELECTION OF 1914-ELECTION OF 1916-ELECTION OF 1918-LATER GENERAL HISTORY OF COUNTY-IRRIGATION-CASCADE IRRIGATION DISTRICT- SUMMARY OF ENGINEER'S REPORT ON CANAL IMPROVEMENTS-SPECIAL MEET- ING, BOARD OF COUNTY COMMISSIONERS-RAILROADS-BUILDING THE C. M. & ST. P. RAILWAY THROUGH KITTITAS COUNTY-THE COAL MINES-KITTITAS EXHIBITS AT NORTHWESTERN INDUSTRIAL EXPOSITION, AS PUBLISIIED IN "WASHINGTON STATE REGISTER" 592
x
CONTENTS
CHAPTER III
THE CITY OF ELLENSBURG
FIRST SETTLEMENT, LAYING OUT OF TOWNSITE AND CHARTER-YEARS OF EARLY GROWTH-ADVERTISEMENTS AND EXTRACTS FROM "KITTITAS STANDARD" OF JULY, 1883, INCLUDING "DIRECTORY," EDITORIAL AND NEWS ITEMS-POEM, "KITTITAS VALLEY"-ELLENSBURGH DESCRIBED, DECEMBER, 1883-FIRST THINGS IN ELLENSBURG-CHRISTMAS TREE AND SUNDRY SOCIAL EVENTS, 1883-CITY CHARTER-AN ACT TO INCORPORATE ELLENSBURGH, ETC .- THE "STANDARD" SKETCHES ELLENSBURGH IN 1885-ITEMS FROM "LOCALIZER," APRIL, 1889- QUARTERLY APPORTIONMENT OF SCHOOL MONEY, APRIL, 1889- FIRE OF JULY 4, 1889-BUSINESS FAILURES-THE WATER QUESTION-EDI- TORIAL ON CITY WATER SUPPLY-CITY GOVERNMENT-MAYOR'S MESSAGE- MAYORS AND CLERKS, 1886 TO 1918-CAUCUS FOR CITY OFFICERS, NOVEMBER
5, 1918 64
CHAPTER IV
SCHOOLS, CHURCHES AND SOCIETIES OF ELLENSBURG
THE SCHOOLS-DISTRICTS-KITTITAS COUNTY TEACHERS-SCHOOL BOARD-TEACHERS IN PUBLIC SCHOOLS-CLE ELU'M SCHOOLS-STATE NORMAL SCHOOL BOARD OF TRUSTEES-STATE BOARD OF EDUCATION-ADMINISTRATIVE STAFF-FACULTY FOR 1918-19-CHURCHES OF ELLENSBURG-INTO THE HOSTILE CAMP-FRA- TERNAL AND MISCELLANEOUS SOCIETIES-THE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE: CON- STITUTION AND BY-LAWS-OFFICERS AND TRUSTEES-KITTITAS COUNTY IN THE SPANISHI-AMERICAN WAR-CITY LIBRARY OF ELLENSBURG. 703
CHAPTER V
POLITICAL HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT OF BENTON COUNTY
EARLIEST SETTLERS-BENTON COUNTY A NATURAL UNIT-AGITATION FOR NEW COUNTY-AN ACT TO CREATE THE COUNTY OF BENTON-BENTON COUNTY AN ACTUAL FACT-BENTON COUNTY GETTING READY-BENTON COUNTY-THE RAILROAD COMMISSION-BENTON COUNTY DOING BUSINESS-OFFICERS' BONDS FILED-COUNTY NEW'S NOTES-RECORD OF ELECTIONS-ELECTION OF 1912- ELECTION OF 1914-ELECTION OF 1916-ELECTION OF 1918 COUNTY SEAT QUESTION-SCHOOLS OF THE COUNTY-TEACIIERS OF BENTON COUNTY ___ 736
xi
CONTENTS
CHAPTER VI
A JOURNEY THROUGH THE VALLEY-KITTITAS AND YAKIMA COUNTIES
CLE ELUM AND ROSLYN-COAL DISCOVERED-CLE ELUM FIRE : DESCRIPTION AND EDITORIALS FROM THE "ECHO"-CLE ELUM HISTORY-THE CLE ELUM "ECHO" -LODGES-SCHOOLS-ROSLYN-FIRE AND STRIKE-BANK ROBBERY AT ROSLYN- ROSLYN CHURCHES-ROSLYN INCORPORATED-HEAVY VOTING AT PRIMARIES (1918)-MINERS ELECT OFFICIALS-FROM COAL CENTERS TO ORCHARDS-THE VILLAGE OF THORP-TOWN OF SELAH-SELAH GAP AND PAINTED ROCKS-SODA SPRINGS-NACHES-AHTENUM, WILEY CITY, TAMPICO, MOXEE CITY-BELOW POHOTECUTE-"HOW IT HAPPENED"-WAPATO-TOPPENISH-TOPPENISH EX- CEEDS LOAN QUOTA-TOWNS ON NORTH SIDE OF RIVER-PARKER BOTTOM- ZILLAH AND GRANGER-THE NORTHWEST MAGAZINE ON "IRRIGATED LANDS"- GRANGER-SUNNYSIDE AND GRANDVIEW-SCHOOLS OF SUNNYSIDE-CHURCHES IN SUNNYSIDE-THE SUNNYSIDE "SUN"-SOME SUNNYSIDE PRODUCTS-GRAND- VIEW-GRANDVIEW ROLL OF HONOR-CROP STATISTICS-IRRIGATION BRINGS GOLD FROM LAND 760
CHAPTER VII
A JOURNEY THROUGH THE VALLEY-BENTON COUNTY
PROSSER-THE TOWNSITE-ABSTRACT OF TITLE-MUNICIPAL GOVERNMENT IN PROSSER-COMMERCIAL CLUB OF PROSSER-INTERESTING RECORDS FROM PROSSSER NEWSPAPERS-A MACHINE SHOP FOR THE TOWN-THE GENERATOR HERE-CELEBRATION A GRAND SUCCESS : A FLOW OF ORATORY-THE SPORTS- AT THE RIVER-FIREWORKS AND BALL-PROSPECTS GOOD FOR GOVERNMENT IRRIGATION-SOME ADVERTISEMENTS IN "BULLETIN," 1905-CHURCH SOCIE- TIES-SECRET SOCIETIES-SCHOOLS, CHURCHES AND LODGES OF THE PRESENT -KIONA AND BENTON CITY-KENNEWICK : GEOLOGICAL CONDITIONS MAKING KENNEWICK WHAT IT IS TODAY-INDIANS-KENNEWICK DERIVATION-IN
1883 TO 1889-SCHOOLS-IRRIGATION AND DEVELOPMENTS-BUSINESS HOUSES OF KENNEWICK-ADVERTISEMENTS AND "KENNEWICKLES" FROM THE "COURIER"-CITY GOVERNMENT IN KENNEWICK-PETITION FOR INCOR- PORATION-FIRST ORDINANCES OF THE COUNCIL-MAYORS AND CLERKS TO DATE-SCHOOLS, CHURCHES AND SOCIETIES-KENNEWICK COMMERCIAL CLUB MEMBERS, 1906-CELILO CANAL CELEBRATION-AT WALLULA-AT BIG EDDY- THE SMALLER RIVER TOWNS-MAY START DAM BY CHRISTMAS-ASSOCIATED CHARITIES ASK SUPPORT-APPLE HARVEST ON-BASH WINS IN HARD FIGHT- LEMCKE BRINGS IN BIG TRACTOR 811
xii
CONTENTS
CHAPTER VIII
THE CAMP-FIRES AND TALK-FESTS OF THE PIONEERS
ORGANIZING PIONEER ASSOCIATION-WOMEN'S CLUBS-OFFICERS OF KITTITAS PIONEERS-RECOLLECTIONS OF O. A. FECHTER-HEADGATES OF CANAL RAISED- FIRST REAL ESTATE BOOM-THE BUBBLE BURSTS-TOWN WAS WIDE OPEN- PIONEERS-THE WOMAN'S CLUB, YAKIMA-MUSICAL CLUB-TWENTIETH CEN- TURY CLUB-PORTIA CLUB-HOME ECONOMICS CLUB-THE COTERIE CLUB-ART COMMITTEE-YAKIMA VALLEY DISTRICT FEDERATION-MOTHER'S CONGRESS -- D. A. R .- CHAPTER P. E. O .- WAR ORGANIZATIONS-MRS. HARRISON'S RECOL- LECTIONS OF THE BUILDING OF SUNNYSIDE-TOWN BUILDING-OLD TIMES IN' THE YAKIMA VALLEY, AS NARRATED BY MRS. WARNECKE-RETURN TO PENDLE- TON-A FERRY BOAT-THE FIRST GIRL'S RECOLLECTIONS OF KENNEWICK- SAGEBRUSH EVERYWHERE-PREEMPT A CLAIM-FIRST BUSINESS BUILDING- MEADOW LARK'S SONG LINGERS-TWO NOTED CONTEMPORARY INDIAN CHIEFS. AS GIVEN BY L. V. MCWHORTER 890
History of Yakima Valley
PART I
PHYSICAL AND ABORIGINAL HISTORY.
CHAPTER I.
PHYSICAL AND GEOLOGICAL FEATURES-GEOLOGY OF THE YAKIMA VALLEY, BY MISS RUTH JOHNSON-IN THE EOCENE PERIOD-GEOLOGY OF YAKIMA VALLEY, AS DESCRIBED BY GEORGE OTIS SMITH-PRE-TERTIARY PERIODS-TERTIARY PERIOD -EOCENE EPOCH-PRE-TERTIARY ROCKS-EASTON SCHIST-PESHASTIN FORM.\- TION-YAKIMA BASALT-GOLD-QUARTZ VEINS-NICKEL AND QUICKSILVER- COAL-BUILDING STONE-ARTESIAN WATER-KITTITAS VALLEY.
PHYSICAL AND GEOLOGICAL FEATURES.
The Yakima Valley is the largest valley in the state of Washington, except that of the Columbia itself, to which it is tributary, and is equalled in area only by the valleys of the Willamette and Snake in the entire Northwest. For physical interest and charm, as well as for fertility of soil and extent and variety of resources, it has no superior in all that remarkable region which composes the Northwest. It is probable that a larger percentage of this valley can be made productive, when brought under irrigation, than that of any other part of the Northwest. The amount of waste land is relatively very small, except in so far as the aridity of the climate under natural conditions compels recourse to artificial irrigation.
In general terms, it may be said that the region encompassed by the water shed of the Yakima and its tributaries, bounded on the south by the branches of the Klickitat and on the north by those of the Wenatchee, embraces an area from the lakes at the head of the river to the Columbia, of about 170 miles in length by an average of sixty-five miles in breadth. To one flying in an airship and looking down upon this vast area, it would present a singular appearance. It has no counterpart in the entire Northwest. It has a characteristic topography which differentiates it from any other part of the country. Since the history and development of this region is the natural sequence of this topography, it is interesting to dwell upon it for a space. The peculiar characteristic is found in the fact that here is a series of level valleys, separated by a regular series of sharp ridges and connected by gaps through which the river and its tributaries have forced their way. Level valleys, ridges, and gaps compose the physical structure of the Yakima Valley. From the mouth of the river upward, the whole area is almost like an arm, with the fingers of a hand extended into the ridges branch-
(3)
34
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
ing out from the Cascade Mountains upon the west. Every tributary of the Yakima of any account arises in the Cascade Mountains or its spurs. The main stream itself issues from the three splendid lakes-Keechelus, Kaches and Cle Elum-with several smaller ones lying in the eastern flanks of the great range, at an elevation of something less than 2,500 feet. The upper tributaries are the Teanaway and Swauk on the north, and the Manashtash and Taneum on the south. The Naches, the chief affinent of the Yakima, almost parallels the main river, as it in turn curiously parallels the Columbia itself. A number of tribu- taries enter the Naches, making of it a powerful stream not much inferior to the main stream at the point of junction. The Bumping River, issuing from the lake of the same name, at an elevation of 3,395 feet, conveys a strong volume to the Naches, which is still further augmented by the swift inrush of the Tieton. Both the Bumping and the Tieton draw their unfailing supplies from the towering heights of the great Cascades, and by reason of this, as well as their relations to the intervening ridges and plains below, they have become of the utmost impor- tance in the irrigation systems of the valley. The Wenas, above the Naches, and the Cowiche, the lowest tributary of the Naches, are small streams, not reaching into the high mountains, but having played a very interesting and important part in the life of the country.
The first stream entering the Yakima below the Naches is the Ahtanum, coming directly from the west, and though not a large stream, having been asso- ciated with every phase of the life of Yakima. Passing the mouth of the Ahtanum and Union Gap, we find a group of related creeks, draining the vast expanses of the Yakima Indian Reservation, the Simcoe, Toppenish and the Satus, with several smaller tributaries.
With this basis of alternating valleys and ridges the Yakima Valley is discovered to consist of a series of distinet sections, interrelated and each consti- tuting an entity of its own. Highest of all and immediately adjoining the lake region, upon the flanks of the mountains, is the comparatively narrow and par- tially timbered valley between Cle Elum and Thorp, the upper part of which is the natural outlet for the vast Roslyn coal fields, and the lower part of which contains the beginnings of the fertile plains, which occur next in order. The next section is the Kittitas Valley, a circular valley of about thirty miles in diameter. beautiful and fertile, fanned by the cool breezes of the snowy peaks, to give a materially lower temperature than that of the lower valleys. Below the Kittitas Valley comes the long Yakima canon caused by the Manastash and Umptanum ridges, a ragged mass of basaltie rock, completely isolating the Kittitas Valley from the lower prolongations of the valley, and composing the only large section mainly incapable of cultivation. Twenty miles of this ragged mountain section, and the heights suddenly widen into the broad expanses of the next section, that of Selah and the Wenas. This section is closed in turn by the Naches and Yakima ridges, and these ridges are broken by the next of those curious gaps, this being at the junction of the Naches and the Yakima. The intercepting barrier at this point is very narrow, and the next of the low, level, valley areas, that of the Ahtanum, on the west and the Moxee on the east, side of the river. stretches for many miles, emphasized by the undulating slight elevations which compose
35
HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY
the very hub of the valley and include the metropolis of the whole, the city of Yakima and its environs.
1369772
This central section is closed in again by the inevitable ridges, those of the Ahtanum and Moxee, which in turn have been carved open by the impetuous river at Union Gap, properly known as Pahotacute or Pahquytekoot. Below this gap, just as inevitable as the ridge and the river, comes the next section, the largest expanse of level land in the entire state of Washington, the areas of the Simcoe, Toppenish, Satus, and their tributaries on the south side of the river, which here takes an easterly course, and on the north side of the vast areas of the Zillah, Outlook, Sunnyside, Grandview and Rattlesnake sections. This immense stretch of level land is curiously broken in the very center by the apparently wholly superfluous ridge of Snipes Mountain, as though there was just that much more material than the earth forces knew what to do with and so they dumped it in parallel with the river. Even though marring some- what the grand totality of level surface in this middle and lower Yakima sec- tion, Snipes Mountain affords a picturesque element of variety and provides also a "Nob Hill" for Sunnyside and fertile slopes which under irrigation will some day be among the most valuable lands of the valley. Below Kiona and Benton City the great central valley is partially closed in again with a some- what broken section of rocky land, though not of great height. On the south steeper declivities ascend to the great plateau of the Horse Heaven country, while on the north long slopes of gradually rising land swell upward to the Rattlesnake Mountains. These two areas bounding the Valley on either side are wheat sections, dry farming, but the lower slopes of the Rattlesnake will be covered by the proposed "high line" canal, and the Horse Heaven is a nearly level plateau, which will be irrigable some time by water from the Klickitat, another system from that of the Yakima. The last section of all in this diver- sified and richly resourceful valley, and what perhaps may be numbered as the seventh in the series of distinctive features, is the eastern frontage including the portion adjoining the Yakima River from the "Horn" to its mouth, together with the long strip from Priest Rapids of the Columbia on the north to the Umatilla Highlands on the south, a distance of about seventy miles along the Columbia. This Yakima-Columbia section has 'such distinctive features as to make it another world apart, and it all comes within the limits of Benton County. Having navigable water along the entire eastern margin, embracing the lofty height of Rattlesnake Mountains and several other treeless elevations, having thousands of acres which need only water to repeat the miracles of the older parts of the Yakima country, and having a climate of such high average warmth as to border on the semi-tropical, and in fact having already nearly rivalled California in date of entrance into the early fruit and vegetable mar- ket,-this last section may be regarded as the great undeveloped region, wait- ing for capital and labor to create a genuine American homeland of high order. In the Rattlesnake Mountains is one feature, unique in character, not yet suffi- ciently developed to make safe prophecy, but which in the judgment of many competent men may become the foundation of tremendous industrial power in the future. We refer to the gas and oil area. This region, known to cattle- men for many years before attracting attention to its industrial possibilities,
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