History of the Yakima Valley, Washington; comprising Yakima, Kittitas, and Benton Counties, Vol. I, Part 65

Author: Lyman, William Denison, 1852-1920
Publication date: 1919
Publisher: [Chicago] S.J. Clarke
Number of Pages: 1134

USA > Washington > Benton County > History of the Yakima Valley, Washington; comprising Yakima, Kittitas, and Benton Counties, Vol. I > Part 65
USA > Washington > Kittitas County > History of the Yakima Valley, Washington; comprising Yakima, Kittitas, and Benton Counties, Vol. I > Part 65
USA > Washington > Yakima County > History of the Yakima Valley, Washington; comprising Yakima, Kittitas, and Benton Counties, Vol. I > Part 65

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"There is a touch of romance and the flavor of old times in the words Fort Simcoe and Yakima. The older Indians and the old settlers among the whites delight in telling about the stirring times in the fifties and early sixties, when the treaty was being made, the fort established and the reservation set aside as a home for the confederated tribe of Yakima Indians. The older In- dians seldom attend a council without digressing in their speeches and bringing in a reference to the treaty and Governor Isaac I. Stevens, who was also super- intendent of Indian Affairs for the territory of Washington. This treaty was made June 9, 1855, and ratified March 8, 1859. Official matters often moved slowly in those days, as they sometimes do even now, but when it is remembered that mail then came only once a year, by way of The Dalles, and that railroads and telegraph lines had not yet penetrated the western wilds, there should be no surprise that things moved slowly.

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HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY

"Even today the old block house, erected as a protection against hostile Indians, still stands, and tourists eagerly dig bullets out of the old timbers and carry them off as mementoes of the earlier times. It is true some people of irreverent minds assert that these bullets find their way into the old block house from modern firearms in the hands of agency employes, but such ideas may be passed over as unworthy and almost sacreligious.

"In the beautiful grove at the fort one may still see in the street in front of the agent's residence, the old oak tree formerly used as a whipping post by Father Wilbur, the famous agent of early times, in cases where his dusky wards bcame disobedient ; but this tree should not be taken as a symbol of early brutality. While no agent since has wielded so strong an arm, none has had so big a heart nor been quite so well loved by the Indians. Father Wilbur had been a Bowery policeman, was converted and came west as a missionary. The older Indians still point out the place at the brow of Toppenish ridge in a little grove where the soldiers halted in their retreat from the Indians and buried an old brass cannon to prevent its falling into the hands of the enemy, and they often show us where a party of soldiers was surprised and massacred by the Indians. Moreover, no agency or school employe, after coming to the fort is quite satisfied until he has visited the old battle ground by Toppenish Creek and by diligent search found some Indian arrow heads.

"A vestige of the old grist mill still stands on Simcoe Creek in the Simcoe Valley, and the ruins of the old sawmill at the edge of the forest, on the road to Goldendale, tell of worthy plans once made and abandoned through official mis- understanding of local needs.

"The parade ground, once resounding to the tramp of soldiers' feet, is now surrounded by school and agency buildings, all painted pure white and present- ing a very inviting and pleasing appearance. The parade grounds themselves are now given up to an orchard and help supply the Indian pupils at the school with our famous Yakima fruit.

"The older agency buildings are of colonial style, having fireplaces in every room and were erected at great cost. Tradition has it that the agent's resi- dencedence was framed in Maine, shipped to The Dalles by way of Cape Horn and carried over the mountains by pack mules. The total cost is said to have been $60,000, which figures are often increased to $65,000 by enthusiastic amateur historians. This building is still in excellent repair, though its quaint little dia- mond-shaped window panes are irridescent with age. Other buildings there were barracks and commissaries, making picturesque ruins, but the present agent, hav- ing more respect for utility and progress than for the spirit of days gone by, has either torn them down or remodeled them into modern and useful structures.

"The Indian school at the fort is always of great interest to visitors. This school, fondly called by the Indians 'Mool Mool,' is one of the oldest in the service, having been established about 1860. At present it has a capacity of six- ty-four girls and sixty-seven boys, and is generally filled to the limit in spite of the much desired drift of Indian children of late years into the public white schools, much desired since in the direction of complete civilization.

"In the Fort Simcoe school Indian pupils are clothed, fed and given free medical attention at government expense. The instruction is very practical ; the

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HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY

time is divided equally between ordinary schoolroom work and industrial work, half of each day being devoted to each. Boys are given instruction in general farm work, including simple carpentering and blacksmithing, and girls in the ordinary domestic arts, such as sewing, cooking, laundry work, etc. Many of our best and most progressive Indians, even many of the older ones, have been educated, and practically educated, here. The fact that the Yakima Indians are among the most intelligent and progressive Indians in the United States is largely due to the efficiency of this school.

"Perhaps there is no tribe of Indians in the United States who give less trouble to their agent and are more law-abiding than are the Yakimas. Not only are they self-supporting, but, relatively speaking, they are industrious, honest and frugal. The majority are affiliated with one church or another, and many are truly religious. There are represented the Methodist, Catholic, Shaker and Pom Pom denominations, in the order of their numerical importance. The latter represents the old-time Indian religion, the Great Spirit being wor- shipped, though not in a way which might be called orthodox.

"There is an Indian court and a police system in connection with the agency, there being three judges and five policemen. No doubt the procedure or practice in this court would not meet the approval of white men learned in the law ; but it is, nevertheless, often a real help to the agent, who approves or disapproves the findings in each case; and the net result is in the direction of good order and justice. In dignity the court lacks nothing, neither does it lack in the moral support, respect and co-operation of the tribe."

Some of Mr. Young's article has become outdated, it having been written in 1911, but the figures given by him at that time have historic interest and hence we include additional portions :

"Practically all the good farming land on the reservation has been, or soon will be, allotted to the Indians. After the allotments now being made have been completed the reservation will probably be formally thrown open to settlement ; but there will practically be no land of any value to secure, at least for a number of years, after which period some of the timbered lands mentioned probably will be placed on the market.

"The official area of the entire Reservation is 1,145,069.22 acres. This area is proportioned approximately as follows :

Acres.

"Agricultural lands

300,000

Timber lands 535,000

Grazing lands, not timbered 210,000

Arid lands

100,000

"In the earlier times little was dreamed of the future value of these lands. Even in the eighties our richest alfalfa lands were considered to be of only nom- inal value.

"To date 3,169 allotments have been made and approved, the first allotments having been made in 1892, followed by others from time to time. Special Allotting Agent M. F. Nourse is now engaged on a final allotment. It is estimated that a thousand allotments will be included in the group now being made. The old allot-

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HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY

ments in general comprise eighty acres of farming land or 160 acres of grazing land. At present forty acres of irrigable land, eighty acres of ordinary agricul- tural land or 160 acres of grazing land are the quantities being allotted. The ap- proximate area of agricultural lands allotted and approved to date is 200,000 acres ; of grazing lands 97,000 acres ; the area covered being in round numbers, 297,000 acres. To this will be added about 80,000 acres covered by the present allotments.

"The following figures concerning irrigation should be of interest :

Acres.

"Approximate area of irrigable land on Reservation 60,200

"The latter area is distributed as follows :

"Irrigated from Yakima River and sloughs 50,000

Irrigated from Ahtanum Creek 4,600

Irrigated from Satus Creek 1,600

Irrigated from Simcoe Creek 2,000

Irrigated from Toppenish Creek 2,000

"In the lower valley an area of 30,000 acres or more was becoming practi- cally worthless because of seepage water from higher lands, which, on coming to the surface, brought up a deposit of alkali. A system of drainage ditches, under the direction of Mr. J. W. Martin, superintendent of irrigation, is now being constructed with remarkable results. All of this area will be reclaimed and made valuable.

"The entire Wapato project covers about 180,000 acres of irrigable land and extends as far south as Mabton. What may be called the restricted Wap- ato project, which extends approximately to the Toppenish Creek on the south, contains about 130,000 acres.

"Approximately 20,000 acres of land is owned by whites under the Wapato project. There have been 290 land sales to date, and forty-five patents in fee have been issued to Indians, most of the land covered by the latter having been sold. The greater number of sales have been under the Wapato project About 27,000 acres of land is being leased under the Wapato project and about 5,000 acres is being irrigated by Indians.

"In all, perhaps 225 Indians are doing more or less farming. Chiefly they raise small grains in the western portion of the valley and alfalfa in the eastern portion. The Government threshing machine the past season threshed 23,000 bushels of small grain for Indians on the western portion of the Reservation alone. In all they own perhaps 2,500 range horses or cayuses, in addition to the horses they keep at home for driving and working. The latter are in gen- eral good animals. A few Indians have large numbers of sheep, as many as four or five thousand at most, and some have large herds of cattle, the maxi- mum number being about 500 head. Probably as many as forty Indians own small herds of cattle ranging in numbers up to forty or fifty head. Many In- dians raise gardens and keep hogs and chickens. A large number make their

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HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY

living by day labor, freighting or team work. No rations are issued on this Reservation except an insignificant quantity to a few old and infirm Indians. The entire cost of rations for the past year would not exceed $20.

"The leasing system on the Reservation is of interest to many. Depart- mental regulations have of late become very strict relative to the leasing of Indian land and such leasing is more difficult than formerly. No able-bodied male Indian may lease more than forty acres of his allotment unless it is shown that he is actually farming other land. In general it is also expected that lands belonging to women and children shall, if possible, be farmed by male relatives. At present no leasing of raw land is permitted under the Wapato project on ac- count of insufficient water, though the Indian himself is permitted to improve and water such lands if he desires. Leases for cash only can not be drawn for a longer period than two years on farming and one year on grazing land. Per- manent improvements amounting in value to at least $200 per year, are re- quired for each additional year added to a lease, but no lease can be drawn for a longer period than five years. Rentals received, counted in cash, range from four dollars to nine dollars an acre per annum. The following is a list of some of the improvements, etc., required in leases in addition to the clearing and leveling of lands, the seeding of same to alfalfa being frequently required.

"The party of the second part further agrees to erect upon the land cov- ered by this lease a frame house of three rooms, worth not less than $400, each room to be 14 x 14 feet, ceiled throughout with beaded ceiling five-eighth by four inches, with walls eight feet from floor to ceiling; all lumber used in the construction of said house to be of good No. 1 pine or fir, or equal. Other materials and specifications to be as follows: Oregon flooring 1x4 inches ; five doors, 2 feet 6 inches by 6 feet 6 inches by 13/8 inches ; six windows, four lights, 12 x 14 inches, the sash to be 13/8 inches; Star A Star shingles; rustic siding : two brick flues, 17 x 21 inches ; the house to be painted with two coats of best lead and oil; the roof to be one-half pitch. The house to be fully corniced.

"The party of the second part further agrees to fence the land with a heavy galvanized barbed wire fence of not less than four wires, using one of the following named brands of wire: American Glydden, Elwood Glydden, or Waukegan, four point, with good cedar posts well set, one rod apart, the cross section of the small ends of said posts to contain each not less than twenty square inches, said fence to cost not less than $120 for each mile of fence.

"All the above improvements to be placed upon the leased premises prior to expiration of the third year of the term of this lease and to be thereon at the expiration of the lease term.

"The party of the second part further agrees to the provision 'That the Secretary of the Interior may terminate this lease upon two months' notice prior to April 15th of any year.'

"The party of the second part further agrees that he will keep the leased land free from willows and other wild shrubbery ; that he will clean and keep in proper repair all of lessor's ditches upon the leased tract; that he will maintain in good order all of lessor's headgates, checks, drops, culverts, flumes and other (36)

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HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY

structures maintained for the conveyance and control of the water; that he will keep in a safe condition for use all lessor's bridges across the canals or laterals; that he will make beneficial use of all water appurtenant to said land ; that he will guard against an excessive use of water or the swamping of land through leakage or seepage; that he will observe all rules of the authorities having control of the water system; that he will not molest or destroy, or in any way interfere with, the headgates or irrigation canals on the Reservation, or on the land of any Indian allottee, or of any other lessee or purchaser of In- dian land, unless under the direction or orders of the officials having control of the irrigation system, and will pay all proper charges for repairs or maintenance which may be assessed by the representatives of the Department of the Interior, the water company or the water users' association having control of the irriga- tion, in addition to the payment of rental for the land.

"Only such flood water can be assured the lessee as can conveniently be conveyed to the leased land by the present system when such flood water is avail- able in the Yakima River to about July 1st.

"The selling of Indian lands is also of general interest. Noncompetent Indians who are incapacitated by reason of age or incurable disease are allowed to sell portions of their allotments, or if necessary their entire allotments, in order to secure funds for the necessities of life. It is also possible for non- competent Indians not incapacitated to sell portions of their allotments in order to secure funds to improve lands retained. This is practiced at the Yakima Agency to a very limited extent, however, as in general results are not satisfac- tory.

"In general fewer restrictions are placed upon the sale of inherited Indian lands, but in this case also it must be shown to the satisfaction of the depart- ment that the funds to be so derived are necessary for the support of the heirs, or that they will be used for the improvement of other lands. Reservation lands vary much in quality. Prices received range from a few dollars to $150 an acre for improved lands. All funds received from the sale of Indian lands. which are called trust funds, are placed in approved depositaries which have given bonds for their safe keeping, and may not be paid out without authority from the Indian Office and the approval of the superintendent in charge of the reservation. The Indian can not draw out such funds at will, and in case he incurs debts without securing previous authority he is not at liberty to pay the same from his trust funds. A departmental regulation likewise prohibits the superintendent from recognizing such debts."

These extracts from Superintendent Young's article give a conception of the state of affairs on the Reservation in 1911. It may be added in conclusion that the developments since that date have been in general highly encouraging. The Reservation has certainly had a most interesting past, and at the date of publi- cation of this history it promises much for the future.

PART III

COUNTY DIVISION AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE TWO YOUNGER COUNTIES

CHAPTER I

BEGINNINGS IN THE KITTITAS VALLEY

FIRST SETTLERS-WHEELER BLOCK-HOUSE-BEGINNINGS OF IMPROVEMENTS- ROADS AND BRIDGES-IRRIGATION-MILLS-DEVELOPMENT OF MINERAL RE- SOURCES-COAL-BEGINNINGS OF STOCKRAISING AND FARMING-CORRESPOND- ENCE FROM THE "STANDARD"-"TENDERFOOT" TAKES A TRIP-TOWN AND COUNTY-LETTER FROM SWAUK-HISTORY OF KITTITAS VALLEY, BY THE SIXTH GRADE, EDISON SCHOOL, ELLENSBURG

We have endeavored in the two preceding parts of this work to portray the progress of the Yakima Valley as a whole. As indicated in the preface we deem the preservation of the unity of the valley-geographically, socially and industrially-as the best manner of exhibiting its history. From the lakes at the head of the river to its entrance into the Columbia, there is a natural unity, even in the midst of great diversity. Settlement and reclamation did not halt or change for any artificial boundaries, even after county lines were drawn.

Yet while that essential unity was a historical fact which should be recog- nized, it was inevitable that the immense area which for a number of years was a political unit under the name of Yakima County should be subdivided. It was too large to be a permanent county. The chief question was as to where the lines should be drawn providing for one or more separate new counties. County division questions, like county seat questions, seem usually to draw out and display the more small and selfish and mercenary side of the popula- tion. In not many cases does the observer of such contests, or the historian in his investigation of the current press, find the larger and further vision which would seek the greatest good of the whole, regardless of local and personal . gain. Yet, in spite of what may seem in the retrospect mean and selfish, the historian must be tolerant of the motives of the builders in their policies and actions in this class of questions. It is not possible for the foundation-makers of a new region to disregard these matters of local advantage involved in taxa- tion, public buildings, roads, school districts, courts, public offices, and all the other considerations depending upon the location of the county seat or of county boundaries. In the retrospect a policy may seem very petty, which at the time of action was very vital. It is much the same with a community as with a family. It is inevitable that at some time the children leave the paternal home and establish homes of their own, but just when and how-there's the pinch-and in the settlement of those questions the differences of the family life often arise.

As we observe the topography of the Yakima Valley it is clear that when a division of the county should take place the Kittitas Valley would almost cer-

563

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HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY

tainly become the first new political unit. Although a part of the great valley it was separated from the central and lower parts by the extensive and rugged Yakima, Umptanum, and Manashtash ridges. For a number of miles the river makes its turbulent way through a ragged canyon not adapted to agriculture or to any form of industry by which any considerable population would be sus- tained. It would seem that from Indian times the Kittitas section, while in a degree the resort of the same tribes which ranged through the middle and lower parts of the Yakima Valley, had a certain separateness. It was a veritable In- dian paradise in the Summer and Autumn. That it was well known to the earliest white fur traders appears from the story by Alexander Ross of his adventure in the "Eyakama," by which he evidently meant the Kittitas.

The first immigrant train to pass through the Kittitas was that of 1853, to which David Longmire belonged, and of which we have given a full account in the chapter on Immigration. During the same year the Mcclellan survey was in progress. Two years later Charles Splawn passed through the Kittitas. It was then entirely an Indian country except for the residence upon the Man- ashtash, at what later became the Barnes place, of a Catholic priest. In 1855- 56, during the great Indian War, troops of white soldiers passed through, and there was much movement of Indian warriors in each direction. According to A. J. Splawn, as quoted in the History of Central Washington, a trading post was located by Hald and Meigs of The Dalles in 1860 at the Manashtash Ford, in order to supply the needs of the miners bound to the Similkameen. This post was maintained for a few months only. Mr. Splawn himself was in the Kittitas section in 1861 on the way to the mines with cattle. He gives a pic- turesque account of it in these words :

"It was on the fourth day out that we came to the beautiful Kittitas Val- ley. This valley, as it looked that day to me, a boy of sixteen, was the loveliest spot I had ever seen. To the west stood the great Cascade Range; to the north rose the snow-capped peaks of the Peshastin to guard the beautiful val- ley below, where the Yakima River wound its way full-length, while from the mountains on the north flowed numerous small streams, and the whole plain was covered with a thick coat of grass. Sage hens and prairie chickens and jack rabbits were on all sides. The song birds were singing a sweet lullaby to the departing day and the howl of the coyote was borne on the evening breeze. As we gazed on this lovely sight, I wondered how long it would be before the smoke would be curling from pioneer homes, for there the settler would find a paradise."

FIRST SETTLERS

Into this paradise which Mr. Splawn so picturesquely describes it must needs be that settlers would make their way. The valley was filled with In- dians, and the great war of the decade of the fifties was not so remote that the first settlers felt entirely safe. It does not appear, however, that there ever was any real Indian trouble in the Kittitas. The nearest to a genuine Indian scare occurred in 1878, when the Bannock War and the Perkins murders and the somewhat enigmatical movements of Chief Moses caused anxiety and led even to the building of stockades at sundry places.

KITTITAS COUNTY COURTHOUSE, ELLENSBURG

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HISTORY OF YAKIMA VALLEY

It appears that at the time of the coming of the first settlers there were two bands of Indians, one under Chief Shushuskin and the other under Chief Alex. Much is said with respect and admiration about Shushuskin by the early set- tlers. It appears that he was a Yakima Indian, but that he had spent some time on the Sound. He is said to have brought with him a pony, tools, and a plow from Nisqually. He also brought with him horses, cows and pigs. His place was on what became the John Fogarty place about seven miles northeast of Ellensburg.

It is commonly said by the old timers that Shushuskin raised the first gar- den stuff in the valley. He was a steadfast friend of the whites and acted as a go-between in case of danger or misunderstanding with the Indians. It is said that on one occasion he was very roughly handled by his own people in consequence of his friendliness with the invaders. There seems some differ- ence of opinion as to the final end of this kindly native chief, but the excellent authority of Mr. Austin Mires is quoted to the effect that Shushuskin was buried at a point a little below the Tjossem Mill.

Into the idyllic beauty and quietness of the Kittitas Valley as it was in the middle of the decade of the sixties began to come the land hunters, bound for homes.

The first entrance into the valley with a view to location, occurred in 1865, and the party consisted of John Roselle with his family and his son-in-law, William Harrington. This initial party had come from the Moxee, where they had arrived a short time before. Their first Winter in Kittitas was one of suffering from cold and hunger. Hearing of their distress, F. M. Thorp, that "Greatheart" of the early settlers, sent Andrew Gervais to conduct the Roselle party to Moxee. They remained in the vicinity of what became the city of Yakima.

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History of the Yakima Valley, Washington; comprising Yakima, Kittitas, and Benton Counties, Vol. I, Part 65

Author: Lyman, William Denison, 1852-1920 Publication date: 1919 Publisher: [Chicago] S.J. Clarke Number of Pages: 1134

Author: Lyman, William Denison, 1852-1920
Publication date: 1919
Publisher: [Chicago] S.J. Clarke
Number of Pages: 1134