USA > Washington > Benton County > History of the Yakima Valley, Washington; comprising Yakima, Kittitas, and Benton Counties, Vol. I > Part 68
USA > Washington > Kittitas County > History of the Yakima Valley, Washington; comprising Yakima, Kittitas, and Benton Counties, Vol. I > Part 68
USA > Washington > Yakima County > History of the Yakima Valley, Washington; comprising Yakima, Kittitas, and Benton Counties, Vol. I > Part 68
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BEGINNINGS OF STOCK RAISING AND FARMING.
While the lumbering and mining interests of Kittitas County constitute two of its greatest sources of income, the stock and various forms of agricultural interest are fundamental in its growth. The same general features of soil, cli- mate, and products which characterize other parts of the Yakima Valley belong to this upper section. The elevation is greater, though this is not great, being 1,470 feet at the Y. M. C. A. building at Ellensburg, while Yakima is a little more than 1,000, Zillah 800, Sunnyside 740. Benton City 460. and Kennewick 350. Thus it will be seen that the Kittitas Valley is not of great elevation, even the lakes at the head of the river being less than 2,500 feet. Even in this com- paratively low elevation there is quite a difference in the climate at various levels. The average temperature of July in Kennewick is 77 degrees, at Sunny- side 73 degrees, at Yakima 7I degrees and at Ellensburg 66 degrees. The other months have corresponding variations. The rainfall varies in similar measure. It is about six inches annually at Kennewick, seven or eight at Yakima, ten at Ellensburg, and from thirty to forty at Cle Elum. Due no doubt in some
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measure to the larger rainfall and snowfall and the lower temperature, we find a heavier soil in the upper valley, whereas in the Columbia River section there is a more sandy and lighter soil.
Soil and climate cause gradations of products and corresponding profits to the agriculturist. While grapes, cherries, and peaches are peculiarly adapted to the lower and middle valleys, pears and apples attain a special excellence in the upper. In the semi-tropical belt bordering the Columbia River five cuttings of alfalfa are frequent, but not more than three can be expected at Kittitas. On the other hand no part of the entire Valley surpasses Kittitas in the quality of the alfalfa, while in timothy hay Kittitas has no rival in central or eastern Washington.
Of the present conditions in productive industries in the valley and of the output of the pastures, farms, and orchards, we expect to write in a succeeding chapter. We will therefore recapitulate here something of the pioneer stage of these various industries. Here as in so many other places in this chapter we owe special obligations to Mr. Gerrit d'Ablaing, whose long residence, great interest in collecting historical facts, and generous use of them in advancing this work, have been of utmost value. Mr. d'Ablaing has a large list of "first things" in Kittitas County and Ellensburg, from which we are privileged to glean certain beginnings in these fundamental industries.
In the stock business we find these "firsts": Charles A. Splawn was first in cattle raising; Smith Brothers at the "Smith Ranch," established the first dairy of any size and made the first butter for sale; John Fritz was the butter and cheese maker at the Smith ranch; James Gass in 1891 was the first to establish a creamery, and in the same year Mr. Gass shipped in the first Jersey cattle ; A. Laboree imported the first herd of Black Polled Angus cattle; Tom Haley in 1869 brought in the first mules; John Pennel in 1880 imported the first thoroughbred running stallion, "Tom Murray"; James Stevens was the owner of the first heavy draft stallion; the first Clyde horse was brought in by Mr. Sothern; the first Patchen stock of horses was imported by J. B. Jones from California : B. E. Craig owned the first Hambletonian stallion, the sire of a famous race-horse called "Kittitas Range"; the first car-load of Percheron stallions was brought by Read and Helm; the first St. Bernard dog (whose weight was 198 pounds) was owned by Frederick Leonhard in 1880. Rev. Mr. Hawn was first to introduce bees. The first band of sheep was owned by Peter McCleary and Anthony Meade.
In grain and hay and fruit trees we also find a record of "firsts." Tilman Houser raised the first wheat on the first ranch. W. A. Bull produced the first timothy hay and introduced the first baling machine. The first hay baled with a compress baler was baled by B. F. Reed in a field belonging to Gerrit d'Ablaing. The first fruit trees were set out by C. P. Cooke on his place ten miles northeast of Ellensburg. The first commercial garden was run by a Chinaman called Charlie How, on the Bull ranch. Mrs. J. L. Vaughn had the first flower garden on the place at Pleasant Grove, and there also Mrs. Vaughn had the first canary birds in Kittitas.
Mrs. J. B. Davidson tells us an interesting story of the first poplar trees on the west side of the Kittitas Valley. It appears that her father, D. J.
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Schnebly, had in 1871 brought from the Ritz place at Walla Walla, a number of poplar cuttings and placed them in the ground on his place on the east side of the river. Later, when assessor, he was riding from house to house, and was using one of those poplar switches as a "persuader" to his cayuse. At the home of W. B. Kilmore he stopped for dinner. Mr. Kilmore picked up the switch which he had thrown down, planted it, and from it sprang the poplars on the west side.
CORRESPONDENCE FROM THE "STANDARD."
At this stage of the story a series of items and correspondence from the "Standard" of September 15, 1883, may well be introduced as conveying that sense of reality which no after chronicle can reach. From this correspondence the reader can reconstruct to his vision the actual conditions in that period of beginnings.
"TENDERFOOT" TAKES A TRIP.
Standard, September 15, 1883.
Editor "Standard:"-Ellensburg may justly feel proud of her Summer resorts which are gradually being made practical by the opening up of good roads. Among them Lake Keechelus is destined to play no unimportant part, situated as it is only sixty miles distant in the heart of the mountains. Leaving this place, the traveler finds rest and refreshment for man and beast at the Preston ranch, twenty-five miles distant. From there the road winds through the timber, with an occasional strip of prairie or mountain park to vary the route, to the supply camp of the S. & W. W. T. & W. R. Company. A fine large hewn log house is being erected at that particular point by Mr. George F. Smith for the accommodation of guests, and a general store. Twenty miles more, and the lake is reached, shining and glimmering like an immense mirror in its rustic frame. The water is cold and clear as crystal, covering an expanse two miles wide by seven long. Sailing over its surface when the breeze permits, or paddling through its limpid waters, banish all thoughts of dust and smoke into the forgotten past. Innumerable fish can be seen floating lazily in its depths, or dashing in circles of mad play over the gravely beach. Trout, salmon, red- fish and various members of the sea serpent family (it is supposed) can be discerned, as some of the fish seen, were certainly neither flesh. fowl nor good red herring. Game no doubt abounds, but has heen driven back by the boys at work on the toll road which crosses the Yakima River at the foot of the lake over a substantial bridge 230 feet in length, and follows the lake up on its north shore for almost its entire distance towards the summit, eleven miles distant. It is rumored that Mr. David Murray has taken advantage of the chance, and will erect a fine hotel, and other improvements tending to make the place attrac- tive to those seeking recreation in the mountains. His selection is certainly to be commended, as a more charming or attractive place is seldom seen. The Toll Road is now open for travel as far as the lake and when the rock work is done, around which emigrants have been rafting, the way to the summit is clear, and then with the world by the ear and a down hill pull, we can rattle into Seattle. With the fifty men now at work on this side, the road will soon pass
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all obstacles. The rock is mostly huge boulders or seamy conglomerate that will readily yield to a bar with a muscular Christian at one end. There are practical rock men on the ground, however, with the material to move that which requires powder. There is no reason why this route should not become a great thoroughfare, as it is our only connecting link with the Sound, that is short and practical alike for heavy and light travel. Mr. George F. Smith will drive at least a thousand beef steers over this road this Fall, and probably many more, as he contemplates opening a wholesale butcher shop there. He will also build at convenient intervals good hotels along the present route to accom- modate the Winter travel. It is impossible to withhold a tribute of respect to the men who have shouldered the burdens and responsibilities of this undertak- ing, and have had the grit to carry it all, when others who ought to be interested have hung back. Every property owner in the valley can surely see the advan- tage to be derived from the completion of this artery along which the life blood of both this and the coast counties will course, and yet many are hanging back until it is completed before investing a dollar in that from which they have already derived benefit, and which they contemplate making subservient to their uses. Nature is all well enough in its way, but the marriage with art, gentle- men, is what makes coin. In conclusion we earnestly ask all who have pledged themselves to support this undertaking, to come forward and help complete the project before Winter debars the company from work. If finished in time, the road can be kept open during the snowfall, and the way to do this is to go down in your jeans, take your medicine and look pleasant. If time permitted I should like to elaborate the adventures undergone-the sailing and fishing, and the courtesies extended to us by the boys at work, but beg they will take it all for granted, as will also the dear old lady. Our thanks for the bottle of wine, and also the dear little things that ate all our venison .- "Tenderfoot."
TOWN AND COUNTY.
From Wenachie .- From Mr. Timmins, and also Messrs. Doak and Magee, who were here this week from Wenachie, we gather a few notes as follows : Everybody on the Wenachie signed the petition for division. The vein of coal recently struck by Miller & Freer, about a mile and a half from their place up the Wenachie, and on this side, turns out to be a valuable find. They have gone in on the vein and so far find it to be a little over three feet in thickness. The coal resembles stone coal very closely, and though as yet they have only developed croppings, as it were, the indications are that it will prove a valuable find. We have some samples of the coal now in our office, and some of the coal has been tried in the forges of our blacksmith shops here. The smiths pronounce it of good quality. The weather is warm and pleasant. Freer & Miller have made a contract with some parties near Lake Chelan for 4,000 feet of lumber, which will be rafted down the Columbia to the mouth of the Wenachie. With this lumber they will make some additions to their buildings. On Wednesday the boys commenced picking their grapes, and they are now busy making wine. Miller said he would be over this week, but then you know, he is so busy at home he may forget his promise.
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A Contrast. We received a pleasant call last week from Mr. T. G. Mc- Dowell, formerly of Cherokee County, Kansas. The gentleman is highly pleased with this country. He has a farm here of 130 acres. This season he put to barley about sixty acres of his farm, and the balance to wheat. From his 130 acres he has just threshed a total of 3,005 bushels of grain -- 1818 bushels being wheat. He has a farm in Kansas, which he had rented. From this farm of about fifty acres to grain he realized 140 bushels of oats and forty-five bushels of wheat. The contrast is unnecessary. Mr. McDowell intends advising his friends back in Kansas to come out here.
One thousand men to the front .- The large force of railroad builders recently employed by Mr. Montgomery on the Northern Pacific Railroad be- tween Portland and Kalama, about 1,000 in number, have been ordered to Seattle to work on the Cedar River extension, in other words on the Cascade branch of the Northern Pacific Railroad, between Seattle and the common point in the Green River Valley. A large number of carts have already arrived, as well as the first instalment of three hundred Chinamen .- "Seattle Intelligencer."
Instructed .- Commissioner McFarland, of the General Land Office, writes a note to Special Agent Gross, at Colfax, Washington Territory, in which he is instructed not to examine settlements upon reserved school sections, or investi- gate acts of trespass thereon by the cultivation of land, unless especially directed to do so from Washington. This duty, he says, is held to belong to the Terri- torial authorities. We presume these instructions will apply to our local land office.
Great Activity .- A Seattle dispatch of the 19th says: "H. Thielson, of the Northern Pacific, arrived here last evening from Portland. He comes to give his personal supervision to the hastening of the Puyallup branch. He states that 1,000 Chinese will at once be brought here and put to work on the Cedar River branch of the Cascade Division of the Northern Pacific. Great activity is antici- pated here in railroad matters shortly.
Received .- We received an invitation to be present at a dance, to be given at Centennial Hall, Yakima, on last Monday, in honor of Mr. J. J. Imbrie and wife. We regret business interfered with our attendance, and we know that Mr. Imbrie will excuse us. He has our hearty wishes for his future prosperity and happiness.
Captured .- George Stewart, who recently escaped from Yakima jail, was recaptured last week by Phil. Stanton, in one of the railroad camps in the canyon.
LETTER FROM SWAUK
Swauk, September 25, 1883.
Ed. "Standard:"-As your readers no doubt take some interest in the de- velopment of this country, I send you the following news which has been
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gleaned from personal observation : Commencing at the lower end of the creek, the Elliott claim is the first one that presents itself and deserves notice. The gentleman whom the claim is named after is the discoverer. He, in company with Mr. Devore, opened the claim this Spring, but owing to the want of suffi- cient grade to take off the tailings, the claim did not prove as remunerative as was expected from the prospects. Later in the season Mr. Ramos took Mr. Devore's interest and cut a new race some six hundred feet and laid a joint flume which now operates satisfactorily but owing to the lateness of the season and other business Mr. Ramos has left for California, and the claim will be laid over until next Summer. On Deer Gulch the Becker claim, Diller and Duffey, who were working this ground, after finding the rim rock and taking out some very good pay, had to quit on account of the water giving out. The China claim at Williams Creek, promises to equal its former yield-the China- men having struck a deep channel running north and south which seems to be the original Swank channel. Sam Yo Ching says it does not pay but every one who examines the place thinks differently. The company above who were sluic- ing in the flat below Bollman's tunnel abandoned the ground, as the bedrock pitched in the hill where they lost drainage. Mr. Woods, late of Peshastin, has returned to the Swauk and will commence work on the old hydraulic claim of Shoudy & Company. Mr. Woods has sent below for pipe and hose and intends opening up this ground in a proper manner when there is no doubt the claim will yield an ounce a day. Diller has bought the Woolery claim and started a new drift at the upper end, which has been paying from the start. Mr. Diller is a thorough underground miner and if there is anything on the hill, this Winter will tell the tale.
Messrs. Black and Duffey are doing well, cleaning up the ground which Mr. Black ground sluiced this Spring. They have found several nuggets rang- ing from five dollars to fifteen dollars and have cleaned up as high as an ounce a day to the hand. Black intends running a tunnel in the hill this Winter on the ground adjoining the Woolery claim. Pike has been the lucky man this season and deserves the sobriquet of "Lucky Pike." Considering the short supply of water that he has had to work with the yield of the precious stuff has been over average. From about the 20th of August Mr. Pike has taken the handsome average of one ounce a day, for the whole time. Pike deserves his good luck. By and by I will send you another letter. Yours, S. T. V.
Such were the beginnings in Kittitas County. The story, with all of its strivings, its sufferings, its heroism, its humor and its pathos, can be but half told in any general survey like this. It was like other pioneer settlements, and yet it had, as each has had, its distinctive features.
One thing the author has discovered in Ellensburg unique in his experience in historical investigation worthy of special mention.
This is the fact that in the Edison School, the training department of the Normal School, the youngsters of the sixth grade have made a systematic study of the history of their county and city. The results of their investiga- tions have been embodied in two little pamphlets on the history of Kittitas, in- scribed on the title page as "Composed and Printed by the Sixth Grade of the Edison School."
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This admirable and unique work by these young children secured the co- operation of several of the prominent county and town builders. It represents one of the most intelligent methods of instructing the younger pupils in history and creating a body of patriotic citizens for the future that the author has seen. The faculty of the school is most heartily to be commended for this contribu- tion to local historical study.
So attractive has the author found the conception and the practical results of this work of the children of the Edison School that he feels sure the readers of this work will be glad to read portions of it. We accordingly close this chap- ter of beginnings with several extracts from "The History of Kittitas Valley by the Sixth Grade o fthe Edison School" of Ellensburg.
Chapter I.
THE INDIANS IN PIONEER DAYS
We made our first visit to Mrs. J. B. Davidson, who showed us her col- lection of Indian things and told us about the Indians.
The Indians did a good deal of hunting and fishing in the olden days. They ate all kinds of fish and all kinds of animals. They liked deer and buffalo best. They ate maize and camas for their vegetables. The maize is corn and the camas is a root from the ground, and it is the Indians' bread.
The way the Indians keep their water cool is by putting it in a basket, and putting it in the sand.
The Indians cooked in baskets, open fire, and kettles. They put water in the basket, and then hot stones in it to make it hot. Then they put their food on and cooked it. They wove their baskets, and got their kettles from the Hudson's Bay Company.
The squaws didn't feel dressed up unless they had beads and blankets, a little cap on their heads and moccasins on their feet. All that the men wore were long shirts, leggins and a blanket.
The weapons that the Indians had were tomahawks, spears and bows and arrows.
THE STOCKADES
Mr. William Taylor is one of the oldest pioneers. He came here in 1870. He visited the sixth grade and told us about the Indians.
Once the Indians became so wild that the whites had to build stockades for defense.
One man left his sheep and cattle to save his own life. Mr. Taylor was the scout around here then so he took care of them for him. This man said that he would rather have his sheep and cattle stolen than to lose his own life.
INDIAN FEASTS
The Indians held festivals every year. They had what they called a pot- latch. They gave away presents, danced and had horse races. Once Mr. Tay- lor out-danced a squaw and received the present of an Indian blanket.
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MR. TAYLOR'S EXPERIENCE WITH ENAMESECHEE BILL
Enamesechee Bill and another Indian in some way got some alcohol which put them on the warpath. They tried to murder a storekeeper, but he had a small pistol which he thrust down Bill's throat and shot him, the bullet com- ing out of the Indian's neck. Bill broke away from the storekeeper's grasp and ran up the road, which was really more like a trail than a road.
Mr. Taylor was standing in front of the drug store when Enamesechee Bill ran up. He began emptying his gun on Mr. Taylor. Mr. Taylor said he began to jump about two feet high and saw splinters flying around him. When Enamesechee Bill had shot all of his bullets out of his gun, he jumped on his horse and galloped away. About that time two men came out of the drug store with guns and shot Enamesechee Bill's horse and chased him. Another Indian came along about that time and caught up Enamesechee Bill and took him on his horse. And then every man in the town who had a horse chased those Indians. About evening they captured Enamesechee Bill and took him down to a shack, locked him up and placed three men to guard him.
That night six hundred Indians came down from the Nanum and said they came for Enamesechee Bill. So they gave him up to his tribe. He was quite sick, and when Mr. Taylor hauled wood from the mill he told the Indian he was going to die, and if he wanted to go back to his tribe he ought to be on his way. So the next day he was carried back to his tribe. But he died soon after.
CAMAS DIGGING
Kittitas Valley was about the only valley that had camas and bread root. The Indians came here from all around the country to get that. They came from the Columbia River and many other places.
The squaws always dug the camas. The root of the camas looks like a sweet potato. Before the Indians could eat the bread root, they soaked it until it was very soft. Then they made it into bread.
While the squaws were digging the camas, the men played games. One of their favorite sports was the rabbit drive. The men would get on their horses and make a circle of about a hundred acres. Then they would keep making the circle smaller and smaller. Then the Indians would shoot at the rabbits. They would get a lot of rabbits in that way. Then the Indians would return home to have a feast.
PREPARING THE BREAD ROOT
The Indians prepared their bread root by cooking it. They dug a hole in the ground, built a fire in it, and heated rocks red hot. As soon as the fire went out they put the bread root in, then covered it up with dirt, and left a hole in the top. Then they poured water in and steamed it.
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THE CHINOOK DANCE.
One winter it was very cold and the Indians' horses were all dying because they couldn't get anything to eat. So the squaws danced for three days and nights for a chinook wind. At the end of the three days and nights the chinook came. They thought that they made the wind come.
INDIAN MEDICINE
The Indians did not know much about doctoring. When one got sick they would lay him on the ground or blanket. Then they would start up an awful racket with tom-toms and hollow gourds with dried peas in the middle. They thought they were scaring the evil spirit away. Another way they had of doctoring was to get an iron rod red hot and ram it through the sick man's body. They though they had driven the evil spirit out even if they had killed the man.
TOBY AND NANCY
The story of Toby and Nancy was told us by Mr. T. W. Farrell, who is a pioneer of this valley. He had a harness shop on Main Street for many years.
Toby and Nancy were friends of the white people. One time Chief Moses got angry and was going to kill all the settlers in the valley. Toby warned them, so the white people were ready, and captured Moses.
Nancy was a Yakima Indian and Toby was a Sound Indian. One sum- mer Toby came over to buy some horses, and married Nancy. The Yakima Indians hated the Sound Indians, and would not let Toby and Nancy stay in Yakima. So they came to the Kittitas Valley to stay.
Toby was the horse king of the valley. He owned nearly all of the horses in the hills around here. He had Indian riders to help him look after them. Toby had many lady admirers. An Indian who rode a fine horse was always liked by the squaws. Nancy was very jealous. She would tag Toby around everywhere, because she was afraid that he would make a present to some of the Indian girls.
Every year the Indians would gather at the "Park" near the present town of Kittitas, and have horse races. Toby was always there. Every white man of the valley was there, too. Toby's horses generally won.
Toby was very queer to look at. He was short and straight. He wore yellow and red strings in his hair and looked fine except for his teeth, which were worn down in a sort of half circle from pulling camas through them while eating it. The children were afraid of him. He knew this, and used to open his mouth and make awful noises and faces just to scare them.
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