History of the Yakima Valley, Washington; comprising Yakima, Kittitas, and Benton Counties, Vol. I, Part 99

Author: Lyman, William Denison, 1852-1920
Publication date: 1919
Publisher: [Chicago] S.J. Clarke
Number of Pages: 1134

USA > Washington > Benton County > History of the Yakima Valley, Washington; comprising Yakima, Kittitas, and Benton Counties, Vol. I > Part 99
USA > Washington > Kittitas County > History of the Yakima Valley, Washington; comprising Yakima, Kittitas, and Benton Counties, Vol. I > Part 99
USA > Washington > Yakima County > History of the Yakima Valley, Washington; comprising Yakima, Kittitas, and Benton Counties, Vol. I > Part 99

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For southeasterly from the Highlands the junction of the Snake and the Columbia lies revealed, one of the most significant points geographically and historically on the continent. Here the great southern branch, rising in the Yellowstone Park and flowing 900 miles through towering mountains, arid plains, volcanic chutes, and abysmal canons, with fertile plateaus above, casts its turbid waters into the clear blue flood of the great master river from the north, which in its course from the glaciers of the Canadian Rockies has accu- mulated a flow of water surpassed only by the Mississippi of all the rivers of the American Union.

As we look it is interesting to call up the figures given by the Government

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engineers of the volumes of the two big streams. The extreme minimum of the Snake was 12,000 cubic feet per second, and the extreme maximum (in the great flood of 1894) was 400,000 second feet. The Columbia at Celilo has had an extreme minimum of 50,000 second feet, while in the flood of 1894 it reached the monstrous figure of 1,600,000 second feet. It can be seen that the capacity of the rivers for power, navigation, and irrigation is limitless.

As we look at the sublime spectacle of the union of the big rivers, with the boundless plains to east and north and the snow-streaked and azure heights of the Blue Mountains to the southeast, we summon to the mind's eye the fleets of trappers in canoes and bateaux descending the impetuous current with the gathered furs of the winter's trade. Or we go yet further back, and see the first white men whose eyes viewed this scene, Lewis and Clark, and trace their course from their camping point at the present village of Burbank up the great northern branch, landing at our very feet and making their way through the sagebrush, shooting sage-hens as they went, till they reached the Yakima, or, as they called it, the Tapteal. The phantoms of Indians of many generations might be summoned, too, to gather again at what must have been one of their favorite resorts.

We shall find as we come down from the heights with all these scenic and historic associations that the town which has been created in the last quarter of a century is worthy of its sightly location. For its homes and streets and public buildings are a plain demonstration of that irrepressible American spirit of building, inventing, planning, overcoming the wilderness, planting civilization.

We are fortunate in having the aid of two of the daughters of Kennewick to perfect the picture of the history which we are giving in but rough outline. In the next chapter will be found some recollections of the first days by one best qualified of any to write of it, Mrs. Daisy Beach Emigh, the first girl in Kennewick.

We are also using in this chapter a sketch of the prehistoric conditions, followed by something of the early history, by Mrs. W. T. Mann. This sketch was first prepared for the Woman's Club, then appeared in the "Reporter" of some years ago, and was much and justly admired as a local contribution to history. In accordance with the opinion of the author that local study and literature are entitled to prominent places in any history of a community, this article by Mrs. Mann is employed here as a fitting initiation of the story of Kennewick :

It was Patrick Henry who said that the only means of forecasting the future is by recalling the past.

GEOLOGICAL CONDITIONS MAKING KENNEWICK WHAT IT IS TODAY

In the great long ago, perhaps millions of years, this region was a vast system of volcanoes and the only reminders we have are Mounts Rainier, Hood and Adams and minor peaks to the north of this section.

We have evidence of nature's gigantic struggles, at Flume No. 1, Kenne- wick Canal-here can be seen how large boulders were cast hither and thither and then the flow of hot mud filling up the interstices, then turning into a hard

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stony mass. Then we have imprints of fish, ferns, grasses, etc., in the "White Bluffs," thirty-five miles up the river. Again we can see undisputed evidences of the great upheaval at Providence Hill, and five miles south of Kennewick, the rocks have been cleaved as though cut to order, all standing on edge.

Mr. Sonderman, one of the early settlers, has in his possession a piece of charred wood encountered by a drill through 420 feet of solid rock. This piece of wood was found in "Horse Heaven," fifteen miles southwest of Ken- newick.

Geologists tell us the location of Kennewick, and adjacent lands, was once an immense lake, fed by numerous mountain streams, evidence of which may still be seen in the Horse Heaven canyons and a very familiar one is the empty but still evident stream bed in Section 11, of Kennewick Highlands. Then for ages these lava laden mountain streams ran their courses, carrying volcanic ashes, worn rocks, etc., from far up among the Rockies, gradually filling up this lake. Meanwhile through chemical action and through nature by means of avalanches, landslides meeting glaciers, etc., the courses of the streams were changed until they formed one mighty river-referred to in Bryant's Thana- topsis as the "Oregon," but explored by Captain Gray in 1792 and named Columbia.

We have evidences of several water levels ten miles east of Ellensburg, Washington. Here the waters made their erosions in solid rock. Does it require days, weeks, months, or years for water to cut into a hard rock? Surely it must have taken at least a few days.

Then we have the great "fault line," thirty miles to the west of here, which extends from river to river or north and south and which will forever deprive this section of artesian water.

Now we are obliged to consider the glacial period-did those great icebergs ever cross Kennewick lands? If not, how do we account for those big, smooth, giant boulders found scattered in isolated sections? We have no granite hills or deposits within two hundred miles of this section. Then we know there are these great deposits of volcanic ash 500 feet deep. And we have these same conditions every year around us, only on a smaller scale. Was this country inhabited by human beings before this great disturbance took place? We know not. If so, did they grow strawberries, peaches, plums, etc .? And so having a fair conception of our soil formation which our learned men of today are now making every effort to test and to determine just what is best adapted to grow upon these volcanic deposits, we can inquire further as to the original life here.

Let us go back to Kennewick, with which we are most concerned. Was this country ever inhabited by mastodons? Yes, a shoulder blade or part of one was uncovered by Mr. Richards in 1898, and was three inches thick and two feet wide. This was uncovered about seven miles from Kennewick in one of the canyons, and several tusks of these animals have been found.

INDIANS

The Indians of this locality consisted principally of the Umatillas, Wallo- was and Yakimas. They made their homes along the Columbia, Snake and

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Yakima rivers, ranging up and down stream according to climatic conditions, etc. Their occupation was barter and sale in horses, fishing and hunting.

There is every evidence to show that great Indian battles were fought be- tween the tribes along the Columbia and Yakima Rivers long before white men came and settled. In 1894 an Indian skull was found three miles from the mouth of Snake River, with an arrow head firmly imbedded in the skull, and there have been arrow heads found in a solid clay formation eight feet from the surface of the ground, and thirty years ago the early whites could not find a single Indian who had any knowledge as to who made these arrow heads.

An Indian called Old Ba-le, who had reached his sixty-five snows in 1893, told some of the pioneers of vast herds of antelope, buffalo and other large game, which ranged over this country when he was a little boy. Also of "big Injun fights" and other events in Indian life. But there was nothing, not even a tradition, as to who made these arrow heads.

In 1902 there was found a part of a pipe fifteen miles above Kennewick which was pronounced by Mr. Harlen Smith, professor of Archaeology, Na- tional Museum of Arts, New York City, as belonging to a race of people far beyond any people of this age. This pipe was found four feet under ground and is now in possession of said institution, properly credited to this section.

We have been told that fifty years ago where Kennewick now stands, the wild bunchgrass grew waist high, and the Hudson's Bay Company cut hay here and towed it on rafts to Wallula, and vast herds of cattle and horses roamed these hills.

In the Winter of 1886 there was thirty inches of snow on the level and the thermometer was 21 degrees below zero, causing a great loss of life to cattle and horses.

KENNEWICK DERIVATION.

In seeking the source or origin of the word "Kennewick" we must go to the year 1883. This date, according to Mr. H. S. Huson, formerly a civil engineer of the Northern Pacific Railroad Company, is the correct date when our fair city received its baptism "Kennewick." Mr. Huson is the author of this name, and it is of Indian tongue and was pronounced Kin-ne-wack, meaning a grassy place, and in the course of his business he (Huson) was obliged to use this word so often, he eventually found himself writing the word "Kennewick." At one time Kennewick postoffice was named "Te he" being called Te he under rather ridiculous conditions. When the wife of an engineer was shown the beautiful depot building which her husband had written her about and in her efforts to express her delgiht or disgust she laughed something like this, "Te- he." The bystanders immediately called the place "Te-he." There can be no mistake about our little city being called "Te-he" in the past, no matter how it originated, as there is proof that letters were received here addressed to "Te- he," Washington, sent by our Government. The word bears a close resemblance to "Pa ha" of Indian origin, a station on the Northern Pacific Railroad, nineteen miles west of Ritzville, Washington.

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SETTLEMENTS AND OCCUPATIONS

According to our Government survey notes this country was surveyed in 1864. These notes speak of sparse settlements along the Columbia River, engaged in the range stock industry, but do not give any definite locations. There were many evidences of settlers as early as 1858. However, our interests concern Kennewick, its rise and fall during its infancy.

KENNEWICK, 1883 TO 1889

The first and original townsite was platted on a tract of ground now cov- ered by the G. M. Annis buildings and orchard. It was a real railroad town with the necessary temporary buildings, including a six stall roundhouse, coal bunkers, turn-table, etc. The town was built during the construction of the bridge across the Columbia River and the road through to the coast. Prior to the completion of the bridge, all trains were transferred over the river by ferry boats, thus making Kennewick a terminal. Relics of transfer days are still in evidence in the old piers, etc., near the river docks. The road passed through where the Garber home now stands, thence west one mile, where it followed the present line.

When bridge and road work ceased, Kennewick became "nil." The first hotel was operated by C. A. Lum, a pioneer of 1885. The lumber for this hotel was shipped by boat from Portland, the lumber costing $30.00 per thousand. One of the first merchants was Joe Dimond, a Jew. The first postmaster was Mr. Knowlton. Soon after Mr. Conway was appointed postmaster, the post- office occupying part of his private residence. The first small schoolhouse was built by donation. The school building was destroyed by fire the same year.

Among the first white women to come to Kennewick were Mrs. Sproul, sister-in-law of Dr. Hedger of Benton City; Mrs. C. A. Smith, now of Seattle ; Mrs. C. E. Lum and others. When the bridge and road work ceased, many of the drifting population followed in the wake and moved on. M. C. J. Beach, a pioneer, with a few others remained, and having faith in future possibilities platted a new townsite on the south side of the Northern Pacific Railraod track, or what is now called Beach addition to Kennewick. Nothing further was done, however. It was a typical western town.

In 1892 a new townsite was platted by the Yakima Irrigation & Improve- ment Company, located on the north side of the railroad tracks. A fine $30,- 000. three-story hotel was constructed on the grounds where Rev. Osgood now resides. The hotel was superior in interior finish to any hotel ever since built in Kennewick. It was called the "White Elephant." A new schoolhouse was erected and what was once a hopeless barren waste, now showed life, the canal was being built, land sold, people came fast, times looked good, and the popula- tion soon developed to four hundred.

After the Yakima Irrigation & Improvement Company began operations on the canal, another company appeared on the scene called the Ledbetter Com- pany, each company working on the same canal, one company building a mile or two, then the other company forestalling them. This canal was called by the people the "Stovepipe Canal." one company building a joint and then the

FIELD OF CORN NEAR KENNEWICK

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next company. At last the Ledbetter Company abandoned it to the Yakima Irrigation & Improvement Company.

The hard times of 1894-95 saw another townsite die a natural death. This is a picture described to me by one of the pioneer ladies : The town proper con- sisted of a railroad depot, section house (full of Chinamen), general store and postoffice (in one), one hotel costing $30,000 (empty), one hotel, the old Hotel Columbia, which stood where the O .- W. R. & N. depot now stands, occupied by Mr. Beach, a blackmith shop, meat market (mostly unoccupied), and north side school, which answered as a church, town hall and all other purposes of a public nature. Also a saloon, but as all the people were church goers, the saloon keeper closed his saloon and started going to church too, and finally left for a better place. We had an excellent Sunday school and Christian Endeavor and the ladies had splendid times ; we gave receptions and entertainments, and at Easter time everybody went out wild-flower hunting and on Sunday the schoolhouse was a bower of beauty, as the prairies were a garden of wild flowers.

Land anywhere could be bought for $50 to $60 per acre. Before irrigation the people lived by means of range stock, such as horses, cattle and sheep. Hundreds of horses might be seen at one time galloping down the "Horse Heaven" hills on their way to Columbia River to drink, and the tramp of their many feet was like the roar of thunder. "Horse Heaven" was so called on account of the abundance of fine bunchgrass which made a real heaven for those horses.

The country now known as Section 7, Highlands, Garden Tracts, was then inhabited by coyotes and jack rabbits and the range stock.

Eighteen hundred ninety-four was the year of the great flood of the Colum- bia River. No living Indian had ever known or heard of such a flood. Cli- matic conditions have changed somewhat, caused by a greater moisture. In the early '80's and '90's very little rain fell. The heat began earlier and lasted longer. The Winters were milder.

SCHOOLS

The first school district was formed in 1885, and was called Columbia School District No. 17. First school meeting called on May 26, 1885. First school directors, Mr. C. J. Beach, A. R. Leeper, A. W. Gray and J. Dimond. Mrs. Mary Haak was first school teacher at a salary of $40.00 per month. School opened June 1, 1885. School census showed children five to twenty-one years of age, males 26, females 19; under five years, males 12, females 12. Kennewick has never been without schools to the present date.

IRRIGATION AND DEVELOPMENTS

Dr. C. A. Cantonwin, now gone to the great beyond, is said to have been the father of irrigation in this section. No doubt this statement is correct, as there are several old private canals still in sight along the Yakima River, con- structed in the early eighties.

In 1889 the Dell Haven Irrigation district operated the canal ditch, but 110 canals were built because it takes money to construct canals, but the people's (54)

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firmness and great faith, saw great possibilities in this favored location, hence the entrance of the Yakima Irrigating & Improvement Company and finally the Northern Pacific Improvement Company, who assured the work where others failed. And this company has built well. The previous failures were caused by times and conditions, and of all canals constructed in the Pacific Northwest during development period, few survived a failure.

1893- First newspaper ever published in Kennewick, called the "Colum- bian," Windfield Harper, editor. Farms and orchards developed, first straw- berries placed on the market. New schoolhouse completed.

1895-World's panic finally reaches Kennewick; developments cease, ranchers discouraged ; break in canal every week.

1896-Times very bad, nothing at all by way of improvements : ranchers suspend work; everybody discouraged. September 26th big break in canal. Irrigation takes a vacation until February 4, 1902.

1902 -- Northern Pacific Railway Company secures contract for canal; be- gins construction work : plats new townsite (present site) : great rush for land, lots selling rapidly ; Johnson & Fullerton erect first important general merchan- dise store, followed by more stores, residences, etc. Also newspaper by "Pea" Greene, editor.

1903-Great prosperity ; everybody wants a home in Kennewick; more stores, banks, homes and various other improvements. Water reaches Kenne- wick April 7th: great day for the town.

1904-First automobile appears on streets; first strawberries from "New Kennewick" go to market and establish highest price for berries ever paid in Pacific Northwest. Kennewick incorporated, first mayor and council elected.

1905-Southern Pacific Railway makes arrangements to come to Kenne- wick. Many buildings going up in town and on ranches. Seventeen thousand dollar brick schoolhouse erected, also churches : Fruit Growers' Association or- ganized ; general prosperity.

1906-First telephone system erected. Electric light and water plant in- stalled. Fraternal lodges organized: streets graded and trees planted along streets ; great activity in all lines.

1907-City progressing rapidly ; improvements introduced.

1908-Navigation established through efforts of Kennewick business men ; irrigation canal sold by railway company to present owners ; Highlands being prepared for platting.

1909-Highlands pumping system installed : Pacific Power & Light Com- pany makes permanent improvements and begins construction of high tension line from Yakima to Kennewick: land in big demand on Highlands.

1910-Everybody busy ; general prosperity.

1911-First Grape Carnival inaugurated, big success ; new $70,000.00 school building erected ; O .- W. R. & N. Railway in operation.

1912-Many modern improvements made in city : cement sidewalks laid ; sewer constructed.

1913-Population of Kennewick 2,800; electric lighting established on High- lands ; first fruit crop on Highlands and many other events of minor importance.

1914-General conditions prevail; Kennewick boosters are now busy on

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the great problem of harnessing of the sun's energy to increase the energy of the Kennewick people. MRS. W. T. MANN.

It may be noted that Mrs. Mann and Mrs. Emigh tell a different story of the origin of the sonorous name of the town. That, however, need not dis- concert either.

It would be a rare thing to find an Indian name that did not yield more than one derivation. As we noted in the chapter on the Native Races, there are frequently half a dozen explanations of origin and a dozen ways of spelling these native names.

As appears in the narration already given Kennewick was laid out on the homestead filed in 1883 by C. J. Beach. Mr. Beach established himself in the first part of a new house in the Fall of that year, and in May, 1884, he took his family there. It appears from Mrs. Emigh's narrative that one house or cabin was already in existence, that of "Doc" Livingston. In 1884 the Northern Pacific Railroad reached the Beach claim and it was quickly followed by a typical little railroad town. Joseph Dimond built the first structure for busi- ness purposes. Primitive restaurant, hotel, saloon, and grocery store followed. At that time the huge ferry boat, "Billings," was used for conveying trains to and fro. A little cluster of railroad men made their homes at the new place.

The railroad company built a roundhouse, turntable, coal bunkers, and stock yards in the space between the track of today and the river. In 1884 a rudimentary schoolhouse was built on the Beach place. The first teacher was Mrs. Haak, followed by T. B. Thompson, and then came Miss Josie Miller.

Apparently there have been three distinct Kennewicks. The period of the first began with the location of Mr. Beach and his family in 1884 and with the advent of the railroad, and ended in 1887 with the construction of the bridge. Pasco then became the division point. Most of the people at Kennewick moved away. Even Mr. Beach and his family, having lived their allotted five years on the homestead, moved first to Seattle and then to Ellensburg, but returned in 1892.

The second stage of Kennewick's existence began in 1892. Irrigation waved his magic wand over the desert, and presto, change! Orchards began to nod above the sagebrush, alfalfa fields challenged the "ancient solitary reign" of the jack-rabbits, horned toads, and rattlesnakes, and pretty cottages smiled across the gray-brown of the landscape.

But this was mainly in imagination. People could see these things with the eyes of faith, but they were not yet present in tangible form to any great degree. The Yakima Irrigating & Improvement Company had been formed, based mainly on eastern capital, had made a filing for 600 second feet of water in the Yakima River at a point four miles above Kiona and had framed plans for an immense scheme of reclamation. Several years passed before they began systematic work. On January 17, 1892, the first furrow was turned in the ditch which was to convey water to Kennewick. The head of the canal was on the south side of the river at Horn Rapids. In 1893 the ditch reached Kennewick, and the next year it reached Hover. Of these events, including the Delhaven Irrigation district, we have already written at length in the chapter on Irriga-

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tion. Suffice it to say that the "Great Depression" wrecked both the company and the district. The second stage of Kennewick's history-a most interesting one -- ended in seeming defeat and disaster. Much improvement had been made. A fine, ambitious group of homebuilders had come. A liberal and outgrowing policy of improvement had been adopted. Everything seemed to promise an- other Yakima on the bank of the Columbia. But the hard times were too much. The ambitious plans failed of realization. Many abandoned their well started places. The town nearly expired again and by 1899 was almost forsaken. . It is worth noting. however, that during that period certain institutions had be- come definitely established. The schools had been thoroughly organized and did not lapse. A newspaper, the "Columbian," had come into existence, but it had expired without issue, and yet had led the way to one which became in 1902 a permanent journal. Two churches had been built, one by the Presby- terians, and another jointly used by the Congregationalists and Methodists. During this period Rev. Samuel Greene of Seattle, Congregational superinten- dent of Sunday schools, was carrying on his great work through eastern Wash- ington, devoting a large part of his energies to Kennewick. Thus the time was not lost altogether, even though the end of the century was a time of disappoint- ment and financial loss.

The third stage of Kennewick history began with the taking over of the irrigation enterprise by the Northern Pacific Railroad in 1902, and the end of it is not yet set, but it is safe to say that the end will not occur till the end of all things.

We find in the "Courier" much valuable data upon the current history of Kennewick No. 3. From the issue of March 13, 1903, we extract the following, on the thriving condition of the little city :

"Surprising progress is being made on all sides at Kennewick, which is rapidly being transformed from the sagebrush hamlet of a year ago to a popu- lous, well conducted, modern town, ready for incorporation. In the last ten days 1,000 acres have changed hands in small tracts, with buyers from all over the Inland Empire and the west side of Washington.

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History of the Yakima Valley, Washington; comprising Yakima, Kittitas, and Benton Counties, Vol. I, Part 99

Author: Lyman, William Denison, 1852-1920 Publication date: 1919 Publisher: [Chicago] S.J. Clarke Number of Pages: 1134

Author: Lyman, William Denison, 1852-1920
Publication date: 1919
Publisher: [Chicago] S.J. Clarke
Number of Pages: 1134