History of Milwaukee from its first settlement to the year 1895, Part 57

Author: Conard, Howard Louis, ed. cn
Publication date: 1895
Publisher: Chicago and New York, American Biographical Publishing Co
Number of Pages: 840


USA > Wisconsin > Milwaukee County > Milwaukee > History of Milwaukee from its first settlement to the year 1895 > Part 57


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tion of connecting the entire system of parks by a fine boulevard is carried out, the system will encircle, practically, the whole city. In purchasing these seven sites, which represent a total of some three hundred and ninety-eight acres, the com- missioners especially endeavored to select such property as had not yet been entirely denuded of timber by the ruthless axe of speedy Western civilization, and which in every other way pos- sessed such natural advantages as would materi- ally lessen the labors of the landscape gardener.


Having secured the grounds, the commissioners, well aware that it takes the cultured eye and the lifelong experience of the landscape archi- tect to devise plans that will bring out and accent- uate the natural advantages and turn to best account the disadvantages of the site, sought and obtained the services of Mr. Frederick Law Olm- sted-the genial creator of Central Park of New York, and of the beautiful surroundings of the Columbian World's Fair buildings in Chicago-and Lake Park and West Park, as they now stand, were carried out chiefly in accordance with the plans made by this gentleman.


It was only natural that the superb beauty of Lake Michigan should be considered first. As we have already seen, owing to the fact that the lake front of nearly the entire city is cut off by railroad tracks and private property, the public had no access to the lake proper until the small Flushing Tunnel Park was devised. The chief effort of the commissioners was directed toward the acquisition of whatever was left of the lake shore, and their labors were crowned with such success that the whole available shore of Lake Michigan was se- cured, thus giving our people a frontage on the lake from the waterworks to the north end of Lake Park, a distance of a mile and a half. Thus, what the commissioners consider one of the most beautiful park sites in the world, and which con- sists of one hundred and twenty-five and twelve one-hundredths acres of land-temporarily called "Lake Park"-was secured and will forever be the property of every one of our citizens.


The property so acquired consists of a high plateau of land skirting Lake Michigan and end- ing toward the lake in a precipitous bluff from eighty to one hundred feet above the water's edge, with more or less sandy beach below. This plateau is cut at right angles by a number of deep ravines, two of them densely wooded, which


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ravines add greatly to the natural beauty of the landscape, and not only necessitate bridges, but inake them possible; for in many cities which, like Chicago, lie absolutely flat, the landscape gardener has been obliged to first make a ravine in order to have some excuse for a bridge. There was no such necessity in our Lake Park; indeed, the number of our ravines being so great and the cost of bridging them so large, it was deemed best to fill one of them entirely; this was done with the ob- ject of obtaining a large expanse of ground or a meadow of such size as to give the eye a vista of some distance. A number of such bridges have thus far been built across the northernmost two of these ravines for carriages as well as pedestrians, and the commissioners flatter themselves that these beautiful works of engineering and archi- tecture will not be the least attractions of the park. Indeed, they would be considered ornaments if they were situated in any of the great European parks. They were designed by Mr. Oscar Sanne of this city, to whose good taste they bear ample testimony.


As we have seen before, the driveway leading up to the park proper starts from the Waterworks Park, opposite the water tower, and by a graceful curve leads over to the bluff, on the very brink of which it runs a couple of thousand feet till it reaches the lighthouse, situated on a tongue of land isolated by two very deep and precipitous ravines; the bridges, when once built, may be considered the gateway into the park proper, which at that place commences to widen out from a mere strip of land along the bluff into a plateau fifteen hun- dred feet in width, till at Park Place it reaches Whitefish Bay Road.


It should be mentioned here that the light-house property, consisting of two acres of land owned by the general government, is so situated as to cut the Lake Park into two separate parts, thereby making the construction of the projected magnificent and continuous driveway on the edge of the bluff, with its picturesque bridges, from the water-tower to the northern part of the park, an impossibility.


It was, therefore, imperatively necessary to ob- tain "Uncle Sam's" permission to make use of the lighthouse property as though it were a part of the park. This permission was finally obtained after continued efforts on the part of the Park Commissioners, aided by United States Senator John L. Mitchell.


Though we have thus reached the light-house and the park proper, it may be said that this has not been done without surmounting a great many difficulties and spending many thousands of dol- lars for the purpose of filling deep cuts, and mak- ing the very land on which this driveway now runs. At no other point in the city could there have been found more serious obstacles to over- come, and nowhere else could such a superb view of the lake and the beautiful bay of Milwaukee be obtained. Many difficulties will have to be over- come in order to hold that steep mile-long bluff, but it is hoped that the planting of shrubs and some judiciously-placed clusters of trees will not only accomplish that purpose, but make the sur- face of the lake appear all the more entrancing when broken by their graceful foliage. Up to the light-house we have the lake constantly on our right, but as the interest in the beauties of a park is heightened by seeing them from different points of view, it was deemed wise after crossing the two bridges, which are to be treated as one-the dis- tance between the two being only about one hun- dred feet-to turn the drive-way abruptly west- ward toward the Whitefish Bay road. Before turning to the west, however, we pass what is no doubt going to be the most interesting and attractive place in the park, the Concert Grove, in which free concerts are to be given. This grove has been planted with a large number of lindens and elms, many of them over twelve inches in diameter, so that concerts at that place may be enjoyed in the near future. The grove is lo- cated on the very brink of the bluff, overlooking the Bay of Milwaukee, and will enable an appre- ciative audience not only to enjoy the music, but a superb view and the cool lake breezes at the same time. If we say that the public will have a chance to enjoy concerts hereafter, we do not mean to say that they are deprived of them now, for thanks to the public spirit of the City Railway Company and its enterprising head, Mr. Henry C. Payne, free concerts are now often given in the Lake and West-side parks, with a promise to give them soon in the South-side parks.


This turn in the road above mentioned serves four purposes. To entirely deprive the visitor of the view of the lake for a time, directing his atten- tion to the interior of the park; to get in touch with what is now called Newberry boulevard, one of the main entrances into the park and the


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connecting link between this and the River Park ; to pass around the head of a deep ravine, which must otherwise have been bridged at great ex- pense, and finally to bring the visitor back full face to the lake by an equally sharp turn east- ward.


We now cross one of the bridges mentioned above and turn sharply to the northwest, and avoiding the edge of the bluff we follow the course of the most beautiful of all our ravines, passing on the way a very handsome steel foot- bridge across it, as well as a temporary music pavilion and the old Lueddemann house, now transformed into an unpretentious shelter; then proceeding in a wide and graceful curve we cross the ravine on a very beautiful stone and terra cotta bridge to get into the north drive leading into Whitefish Bay road.


Taking leave of those who wish to extend their trip further north to the Country Club, or White- fish Bay, we turn southward on the return loop of the drive, which in serpentine curves among the old trees runs parallel with Whitefish Bay road till we reach the beautiful and roomy station and shelter house, erected jointly by the Electric Rail- road Company and the Park Commissioners, pur- posely located inside the park, so as to give our wives and children a chance to avoid the heavy traffic of carriages and vehicles on Whitefish Bay road. This building, which is provided with ample retiring rooms, would be an ornament to any park. It was designed by Mr. Howland Russell of this city.


Passing the station, we soon reach the entrance opposite Newberry boulevard, and bidding good- bye to those who desire to drive over to the River Park, we may either extend our drive south ward to Park Place, which has been just finished, or else turn into the beautiful and crooked ravine which takes its start opposite the boulevard, and enjoy a very steep descent along the bottom of it till we reach the sandy beach of Lake Michigan, which is to be connected, in the course of time, with the proposed lake shore drive from Mason street to the north end of the park. This steep roadway through the ravine will make it possible to drive by way of Newberry boulevard from the water's edge in Lake Park to the water's edge in River Park. Thousands of forest and nursery trees, and tens of thousands of shrubs have been planted with the greatest care in this park, and it may be


said that about fifty acres of it are finished so far as the hand of man can do so.


We now leave Lake Park, and if the writer has devoted more space to it than can be allotted to the other parks, the reason is simply this, that whatever advantages and attractions they may possess- and they all possess special points of beauty-it must be conceded that no attraction can equal that of Lake Michigan. Not only its ever chang- ing surface, passing ships and beautiful shores, but the sense of vastness which is given to the spectator by the unbounded expanse of water, makes this park appear so large that one of the commissioners was fully entitled to indulge in the pleasant joke that all one need do to fancy its size increased to one hundred thousand acres, is to imagine its eastern boundary in the middle of Lake Michigan.


Driving along Newberry boulevard a distance of three-quarters of a mile will bring us into our River Park, a transition from the impressive beauty of the great lake to the quiet and pas- toral loveliness of the upper Milwaukee river. This delightful little River Park is indeed only twenty-four acres in extent, but its beauty more than compensates for its lack of size. The river makes an inward curve at this point, and the species of bay thus formed meets the beautiful and tolerably well timbered ravine which traverses the middle of this park, and through which the boul- evard proceeds in its course toward Folsom street bridge. It is true that this park is cut in two by the North-Western Railroad, but the tracks at this point cross the ravine on a high stone viaduct, through whose single arch the boulevard passes. Mr. Marvin Hughitt, the public-spirited president of the railroad, not only gave the commissioners permission, " in perpetuo," to use the arch already existing, but also to build more of them, which latter has already been done in one instance, thus enabling pedestrians to pass under the tracks at a somewhat higher level than that of the viaduct.


More than three miles to the west and slightly to the north of the River Park is situated the fine piece of property at present designated as "Perrigo tract." Here we have twenty-three and seventy- eight one-hundredths acres of excellent land, more than half of which is covered with splendid tim- ber. With regard to the manner of reaching this park from the River Park, it may be considered fortunate that, partly in conformity with the


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wishes of the Park Commissioners, the new river bridge was located at Folsom street, at the northern extremity of the River Park, and so the boulevard is carried across the river, so to speak, hereafter to be extended westward upon what- ever street may best be used for the purpose of reaching the Perrigo tract. A pavilion has re- cently been built in this park.


A mile and a quarter south of Perrigo tract is the West Park, a superb piece of undulating or even hilly land of one hundred and twenty-four and fifty one-hundredths acres in extent. Next to Lake Park this is the most important and the most beautiful piece of ground the city possesses. It is likewise the highest point of land surrounding the city, rising in one place to an altitude of one hundred and eighty feet above Lake Michigan, which elevation, made accessible to carriages by a fine road, domi- nates the park. From this point there is a superb view of the whole city and the Bay of Milwaukee, as well as the lovely and well timbered hillocks toward the west. Were it not for the lake and the ravines which give Lake Park its peculiar air of grandeur and loveliness, the West Park would really present more points of attractiveness on account of the far greater undulation of its ground and the possibility afforded to the landscape gar- dener to bring about a greater diversity of views and surprises, made possible by more sudden turns and greater rise and fall in the drives. One of the chief attractions of this park is its grand old forest of some fifteen acres in extent, composed of the only maples and other old trees one hun- dred feet high, that were spared by the axe for a great distance around the city. It was chiefly on account of this magnificent grove of trees that the commissioners determined to secure the site, in order that our children may have an idea how the forest, or indeed the whole site on which the city is built, looked fifty years ago. A very roomy and tasteful pavilion was built at the northwest- ern edge of this little forest, in which concerts are now given several times a week. The next great attraction in this park is an artificial lake, eight or nine acres in extent, affording excellent boat- ing in summer and splendid skating in winter for thousands of children, who seem to prefer these amusements to all others. The drives in West Park, which traverse the whole of it, and are especially constructed to bring out all the


points of interest, are practically finished ; indeed, the whole park is in a far more finished state than Lake Park, for the reason that with the exception of the excavation of the artificial lake, no heavy earthwork or bridge building had to be done. Very extensive plantations of trees and shrubs have been made, the very careful nursing of which-the chief duty imposed npon all park foremen-will assist nature in her work of turning this park into one of the finest resorts of the city.


Though the park authorities do not think that the time has as yet come for the establishment of zoological gardens, it being much more essen- tial to build roads and paths and to prepare the ground for the planting of trees, so as to enlist the helping hand of nature in her growth; yet a small beginning has been made by the acceptance as donations of a few deer which have already developed into a small herd. The roar of the lion and the chattering of the monkeys will have to be denied to our children for the time being. The widening and boulevarding of Forty-third street, suggested by the commissioners to the enterprising owners of property on that street, will connect this great park with Perrigo Park. The electrical cars now reach West Park, and it will be only a question of time, or, rather, money, when, as at Lake Park, a suitable station will be built at the entrance thereof.


We now come to Mitchell Park, nearly two miles south and east, the most interesting way of reaching which from West Park would be to carry a boulevard across the Menomonee Valley to the entrance of the Soldiers' Home, a beautiful park in itself, and much larger than any of the city parks; and by using the drives therein, which Uncle Sam liberally puts at the disposal of our citizens, reach National avenue and thence Mitchell Park. It may also be reached by way of High- land boulevard and the future viaduct across Menomonee Valley on Washington avenue.


If the writer again uses what seems to be ex- travagant language in describing the beauties of this little park, it is because he feels justified in his belief that all the parks the city possesses were selected on account of their natural advantages, and that they richly deserve to be painted in glowing language. The park, consisting of twenty-nine and eighty one-hundreths acres of land, five of which were generously donated by United States Senator J. L. Mitchell, may truly


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be called a gem, its natural advantages having been brought out and emphasized by the land- scape gardener in the most happy manner. Situ- ated on the bluffs, high above the Menomonee river, and affording a splendid view of the city, its grounds are yet so broken and undulating that a place for a little artificial lake was found which, as in West Park, is crowded in summer by boats and in winter by skaters. The park is covered with a great many old forest trees, to preserve which as long as possible is the greatest care of the commissioners. May they long succeed in their efforts! At the entrance of Mitchell Park is a very handsome water basin with a fountain in its center and a drive surrounding it, which drive is extended around the park in a graceful loop under the dense foliage of the old trees. A handsome pavilion affords shelter in stormy weather.


Proceeding a mile or more in a southeasterly di- rection, along Washington and Lincoln avenues, we reach what is called as yet Coleman Park, con- taining twenty-four and seventy-two one hun- dredths acres of land, largely covered with a dense grove of original forest trees, mostly hard maples, affording splendid shade to the thousands of visi- tors attracted to this beautiful spot. A nice drive and numerous paths lead to the most attractive places, one of which is a shelter pavilion, the main one being, however, as everywhere else, the arti- ficial lake.


A mile further to the east and south is South Park, containing forty-one and twenty-nine one- hundredths acres, the last of the system so far, again a most attractive piece of ground, to a great extent covered with young timber, with here and there an old monarch of the forest, and of suf- ficiently undulating surface to afford the possibility of a small artificial lake for boating and skating, always crowded in winter and summer. A pavil- ion and boathouse has also been provided for the convenience of visitors.


In this park the commissioners have made their first attempt toward the higher art of landscape gardening by the transformation of a swampy spot of the park into a pond for the cultivation of beautiful water plants, such as


all varieties of waterlilies, lotus, and possibly Vic- toria Regia.


Hoping that the reader may now have obtained a clear impression of the whole system thus far, it remains only to chronicle a recent gift to the city the importance of which can hardly be over- estimated. By a recent law enacted by the legis- lature, the city has been given, under the manage- ment of the Park Commissioners, "in perpetuo," a strip of three hundred feet of land, now under water, outside the railroad tracks and extending along the lake front from Mason street to the northern city limits, in all a distance of over three miles. It will easily be seen that when Milwaukee grows to be large-hearted enough to allow the money necessary for redeeming this land and building thereon a boulevard next to the water, with a lagoon inside for boating and skating, it may well be reckoned as the finest drive in America. The finest, because a drive at the water's edge with a densely wooded bluff on one side must be vastly more attractive than similar boulevards with level surroundings.


Thus far the only park permanently named is Mitchell Park. The commissioners felt that a name so intimately associated with the history of Milwaukee, through the efforts of both father and son, should be properly remembered in this way. With regard to the other parks, it has been the hope of the board that some affluent citizen might, by gift or testamentary remembrance, earn the right to have his name associated with this system and with this view have refrained from christen- ing the other parks thus far.


In the division of their charities, some give to the sick and dying, others even to the dead, while a gift to the Milwaukee Park Commission- ers would be essentially a charity to the living. Let any person brought up in the lap of luxury, and totally ignorant of the true meaning of pov- erty and want, pay a visit to some of the stifling alleys of any great city ! Once he has appre- ciated that to those poor creatures even fresh, pure air is an unattainable luxury, he will also appre- ciate that the task of providing a great town with beautiful parks is one of the most grateful in the world ; but it also becomes a duty.


Daniel Wells


CHAPTER XLIV.


HISTORICAL AND BIOGRAPHICAL.


BY THE EDITOR.


I N the foregoing pages many different phases of the city's history have been presented by able writers, each of whom has addressed him- self to a single topic, and has sought to bring to light and lay before the public, everything of gen- eral interest-of a historical character-pertaining to the subject under consideration. Each writer has sought in the main to confine himself to general history, and yet each has found it necessary to make frequent mention of individuals, evidencing the fact that "history is the essence of innumer- able biographies."


Naturally enough the incidental mention which has been made of men prominently identified with that portion of the history of Milwaukee which has been recorded in the preceding chapters of this volume, creates a desire on the part of the reader to know something more of their personal


histories ; of their antecedents, early lives and subsequent careers. It is therefore appropriate- and in fact essential to the completeness of this volume-that a chapter should be devoted to sketching briefly the lives and achievements of those who have wrought for the up-building of the city and the public good. " Biography is the most universally pleasant, the most universally profitable of all reading," wrote Thomas Carlyle, and there is constantly increasing evidence that the great historian and satirist spoke the truth. In perusing this chapter the author trusts that readers may find both pleasure and profit ; and in the several chapters of this volume it is hoped they may find that " due admixture of the individ- ual and the general," in which, it has been said, "history should find the cause of its highest duty -that of popular instruction."


DANIEL WELLS, JR., who at this time (1895) still lives to link the past with present history, was born at Waterville, Kennebec county, Maine, July 16, 1808, and is the son of Daniel Wells, a well- to-do farmer of that region, who also owned and managed a custom carding and cloth dressing mill. From his New England ancestry he inherited the industry, frugality and rugged honesty which have been distinguishing characteristics of his career, and he has combined with these, the broad enterprise and intense activity of the western man of affairs. He passed his boyhood at his father's home, dividing his time between farm labor and work in the mill, attending school only during the winter months of each year. Limited as were his educational advantages, he made such use of his opportunities that he had qualified himself to teach school and had taught two terms before he was twenty years old. While teaching school he gave a share of his attention to the study of navi- gation and acquired considerable knowledge of


that science. Self-reliant and ambitious, he en- tered upon a business career as soon as he attained his majority, and the following is an account of his subsequent life written by one admirably qualified for the task by his long and intimate acquaintance with Mr. Wells :


"In 1830 he invested his savings in a stock of apples, cider, butter, cheese, dry goods, etc., which he took to Magnolia, near St. Marks, Florida, where a New England colony had set- tled. Going thence to Tallahassee he chanced to meet one Robert B. Kerr-a private tutor in the family of General Butler, surveyor-gen- eral of Florida -- who had been offered a con- tract for surveying a large tract of government land in eastern Florida, but lack of money pre- vented his accepting the offer. Ready for any honorable enterprise, Mr. Wells agreed to furnish the money needed, and disposing of his stock of goods at a handsome profit, he purchased the required outfit. The survey began on December




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