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F 904 . B88
ALASKA
BY MINER W. BRUCE
HISTORY AND RESOURCES
THE GOLD FIELDS
Routes and Songy
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS,
5900 Copyright Ru. Shelf B88
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.
LA ROCHE PHOTO - SO
AN ALASKA INDIAN GIRL.
ALASKA
ITS HISTORY AND RESOURCES
GOLD FIELDS
ROUTES AND SCENERY
BY
MINER W. BRUCE
ILLUSTRATED
OF CONGRESS COPYRIGHT.
JUN 5 1895
C TY OF WI
IGTON
PUBLISHED BY
21980 có
1
LOWMAN & HANFORD STATIONERY AND PRINTING CO.
SEATTLE, WASHINGTON
1895
COPYRIGHTED 1895, BY LOWMAN & HANFORD STATIONERY AND PRINTING CO. SEATTLE, WASHINGTON.
1-15646
INTRODUCTORY.
ALTHOUGH the author cannot undertake within the limits of
this volume to deal, in an elaborate way, with the vast and varied resources of Alaska, he is of the opinion that the matter contained in its pages is such as will give the reader an intelli- gent idea of this great territory, its past and present, and the outlook for its future. The contents will be found reliable, and the information touching the leading industries of the country and its resources, including the great Yukon gold fields, which are now commanding attention, has been prepared with care, and with the view of ensuring the greatest possible accuracy. A more complete reference to the Eskimos of Arctic Alaska and the introduction of domesticated reindeer among them can be found in his report to the Bureau of Education at Washington, and his monograph in the census report of 1890, will furnish further information than is here given upon the southeastern portion of Alaska, both of which may be had free upon applica- tion to the respective departments.
Six years spent in Alaska, first in the interest of journalism, and later in other pursuits, have enabled him to present an accu- rate and truthful account of his observations concerning the de- velopments of the past few years,
The field is large, and already the dawning of great enterprises fills the minds of ambitious projectors. Gold fields are to be opened up, railways built, possibly with a span of communication with the Old World, besides many other projects which will cause the active American brain to vibrate with new vigor. And if the writer can awaken any patriotic sentiment to further and protect the interests of this grand territory, he will be satisfied.
He cannot consistently advise those seeking a place to make a home, or those looking for a new field of labor, to choose Alaska, unless they have some means, and a reasonable amount of stamina, and good health. To any one possessed of these qualifications, he unhesitatingly and unqualifiedly says "Go."
He is in earnest when he says that he believes the next few years will present many opportunities for investment, and for laying a foundation for lucrative business enterprises, and, per- haps, wealth. But if any one expects to acquire these without experiencing the hardships and privations incident to pioneer life, he will be disappointed.
MINER W. BRUCE.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORY.
Alaska .- Discovered by Vitus Bering, a Dane, in 1728 - Mt. St. Elias .-- Search of the Spaniards .- Capt. Cook - Vancouver .- Purchase of Alaska in 1867 .- Origin of Name - Its Geographical Extent .- The Organic Act .- A Prohibition Country .- Efforts to Secure Congressional Action.
CHAPTER II. TOPOGRAPHY.
Topography of Alaska .- Verdant Islands. - Two Great Natural Divisions. - Numerous Fiords .- Great Rivers .- Immense Valleys .- Lakes and Tundra .- Mountain Peaks and Volcanoes .- Cape Prince of Wales - Diomede Islands .- Shallow Water at Bering Strait. -- Railroad Across the Strait.
CHAPTER III.
CLIMATE - AGRICULTURE - FLORA.
Influence of Japan Current .- Precipitation in the Coast Country .- Average Rainfall. - Healthfulness of Alaskan Climate .- Dense Vegetation .- Cultivation of Root Crops .- Cereals and Grasses - Interior as a Stock Raising Country .- Vegetable Life Rapid in the Far North. - Harvest Closely Follows Seed Time .- Experimental Agricultural Stations.
CHAPTER IV. MINERAL AND TIMBER.
First Discovery of Gold in Southeast Alaska .- The Great Treadwell Mine. - Progress of Mining .- Rich Deposits of Silver and Galena Ore .- Where Free Milling Ore is Found .- Russian Placer Mining in Early Days - A Promising Mining Section .- The Yellow Cedar .- Spruce and Hemlock Abundant .- Timber of the Interior. -- Where Bituminons Coal is Found.
CHAPTER V. FISHERIES.
Imuiense Salmon Canning Industry - More than One Hundred Varieties of Fish Found in Alaskan Waters .- Capacity of Canneries .- A Cannery Trust .- Salmon Streams Usually Small .- The "River of Life" at Karluk .- Development of Alaska Retarded -- Cod and Halibut Fish- ing .- Immense Schools of Herring .- The Oolikon or Candle Fish - The Beluga .- The Whale Industry.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VI.
ROUTE TO THE YUKON RIVER.
Ty-a, the Head of Steamboat Navigation .- Necessary Supplies for the Trip. - Natives and Miners Pack Supplies - Reduced Cost of Living in the Interior .- Manner of Traveling .- Headwaters of the Yukon .- Cariboo Crossing - Lakes Linderman, Bennett, Marsh and Le Barge - Route to be Followed .- Canyon .- White Horse .- Five Fingers .- Trading Posts at Forty Mile and Fort Cudahy .- The Yukon Flats .- Navigation of the Yukon.
CHAPTER VII.
THE YUKON GOLD FIELDS.
Gold First Discovered on the Yukon .- Three Divisions of the Interior .- Recent Discoveries .- Forty Mile Creek .- Birch Creek .- Climate of the Interior .- Long Winter Vigil .- Largest Nugget Ever Found in Alaska. - Placer Mining in Winter .- Gold Quartz Deposits. - Vicissitudes of the Miners' Life.
CHAPTER VIII. LAND AND SEA ANIMALS.
Fur Seal Industry .- Seal Rookery .- Hunting the Sea Otter .- Brown and Black Bear .- A Thlinkit Legend .- Home of the Beaver .- The Black, Red, White and Blue Foxes .- The Polar Bear .- Deer, Moose and Other Animals .-. Eagles and Humming Birds .- The Feathery Tribe - Vast Resources of Alaska.
CHAPTER IX. THE TOURIST ROUTE.
From Seattle to Sitka .- The Season for Tourists .- Seattle .- Tacona. - Port Townsend .- Victoria - Nanaimo .- Seymour Narrows .- Chatham Sound. - First Glimpse of Alaska. - New Metlakalıtla .- Fort Wrangel .- Wrangel Narrows .- Taku Inlet .- Juneau -Treadwell Mine. - Lynn Canal .- Glacier Bay .- The Silent City .- Grandeur of Fairweather Range .- Peril Strait .- Sitka .- Mt. Edgecombe .- The Far Beyond.
CHAPTER X. ALASKA INDIANS.
Their Origin .- Quass .- The Totem Pole and Its Significance. - Witchcraft. - Exorcising Evil Spirits .- Cremation Still Practiced .- Shamans or Doctors .- Expert in Carving and Engraving .- The Chilkat Blanket .- Atoning for Murder .- Blackening Faces. - Houses of Natives.
CHAPTER XI. ESKIMO HABITS AND CUSTOMS.
An Eskimo Dwelling- An Industrious and Patient People .- Primitive Manner of Making Fire. - Slaves to Tobacco .- The Oomiak and Kyak. - Eskimo Rain-Coat .- Tattooing by Women .- Wearing Labrets by
CONTENTS.
Men .- Polygamy .- Athletic Sports. - Dancing Principal Amusement. -Zaksriner, the Contortionist. - The Eskimo Dog.
CHAPTER XII. REINDEER.
Importation of Reindeer .- Starving Eskimos and Canse for Same .- Dr. Sheldon Jackson Interests Government. - Arctic Alaska a Natural Feeding Ground for Reindeer .- A Boon to the Eskimo. - Habits and Characteristics of the Reindeer .- Manner of Driving .- Reindeer Sledge and Harness. - Reindeer Good Travelers.
CHAPTER XIII. MISSIONS AND SCHOOLS.
Russian Missionaries Sent to Alaska in 1793 .- A Strange Admixture. - Lit- tle Progress Made. - Indian Attendance at School Not Encouraged .- Long Neglect of Congress to Provide Civil Government .- Dr. Sheldon Jackson in Charge of Educational Affairs .- Public School System Established .- Indian Industrial Training Schools .- Devotion of Mis- sionaries and Teachers.
CHAPTER XIV.
THE BOUNDARY DISPUTE.
Claim Made by the British Government. - The Treaty Between Russia and England .- Line of Demarkation Clearly Established .- Absurdity of the British Claim. - The Ten Marine League Limit. - Portland Canal as the Eastern Limit .- Language of the Treaty .- Why Great Britain Wants this Strip of Territory .- An Outlet to the Great Interior. - Con- gress Cannot Afford to Stultify Itself.
ERRATA.
Page 17, third line - Convention should read committee.
Page IS, tenth line - 1891-92 should read 1889-90. Page 18, sixteenth line __ 1891 should read IS90.
Page 35, seventeenth line - Kakutat should read Yakutat.
Page 115-Dr. Sheldon Jackson first went to Alaska in 1877.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
AN ALASKA INDIAN GIRL, Frontispiece.
OPPOSITE PAGE.
KARLUK SAND SPIT AND " RIVER OF LIFE " 40
YUKON MINERS AT SHEEP CAMP, 44
YUKON MINERS SLEDDING OVER ROUTE, 48
YUKON MINERS PACKING OVER ROUTE,
50
YUKON MINERS AND NATIVES PACKING OVER ROUTE,
-
52
YUKON MINERS AT STONE HOUSE, 54
YUKON MINERS AND NATIVES AT SUMMIT OF CHILKOOT
PASS, 56
THE CANYON, YUKON RIVER, - 60
FUR SEAL ROOKERY, ST. PAUL ISLAND, 64
KILLING FUR SEAL, ST. PAUL ISLAND, 66
JUNEAU, 72
GRENVILLE CHANNEL ON TOURIST ROUTE, 76
THE GREAT TREADWELL MILL, 78
THE TREADWELL LEDGE, So
SITKA, AT 10:30 P. M., 82
FRONT OF MUIR GLACIER, 84
CREVASSE ON TOP OF MUIR GLACIER, 86
THE SILENT CITY, 88
SITKA HARBOR, -
92
GREEK CHURCH AT SITKA, EXTERIOR VIEW, 94
GREEK CHURCH AT SITKA, INTERIOR VIEW, 98
SOUTHEASTERN ALASKA INDIANS AND CANOES, 100
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - CONTINUED.
HON. WARREN TRUITT,
ZAKSRINER, -
- 103
ESKIMO BOY, ESKIMO HUT, ESKIMO GIRLS, ESKIMO
FAMILY, ESKIMO SPEARING WALRUS, - 104
HERD OF REINDEER LYING DOWN,
108
KING'S ISLAND, NORTH BERING SEA, II2
DR. SHELDON JACKSON, 115
HARRISON R. THORNTON, IIS
HON. CHARLES D. ROGERS, I2I
NEW METLAKAHTLA, -
I28
LIST OF PEN SKETCHES.
TOTEM POLE,
-
9
RUSSIAN BLOCK HOUSE AT SITKA, - -
II
INDIAN CANOES, - -
- 39
ESKIMO CANOE,
-
44
MINERS HAULING SLEDS, - -
53
A YUKON NUGGET, 60 -
ESKIMO WITH DOGS, - - - 62
SEAL, - - 1 63
SEAL IN WATER, -
66
BARANOFF CASTLE, - - - -
- 93 -
INDIAN WOMAN, - -
- 95
INDIAN DOCTOR, 99
REINDEER TEAM,
II3
MAP OF ALASKA, SHOWING ROUTES, DISPUTED BOUNDARY.
-
-
-
OPPOSITE PAGE.
IO2
ALASKA.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORY.
LASKA is the name of all that portion of A the northwest extremity of this continent, which, until 1867, was known as Russian America.
It is only a matter of conjecture how long this region would have remained a terra incognita had not the Imperial government at St. Petersburg sent Vitus Bering, a Dane by birth, on a voyage of discovery. The year 1728 saw him in command of an expe- dition whose object was to find, if possible, new lands, and whose course led through the waters east of Siberia until he arrived in the great closed sea that now bears his name.
The object of this expedition does not ap- pear in any degree to have been a desire to contribute to the cause of science; but the prime motives were aggrandizement and to extend the limits of trade.
During this voyage Bering discovered that the two continents were separated by only a narrow stretch of water at the point 110W known as Bering strait, and that the coast of the one was plainly visible from the shores of the other. The year following, this intrepid TOTEM POLE. navigator endeavored to find a coast line across the waters to the eastward, but failed in his attempt.
Immediately following this cruise, and for many years after, there were rife rumors, which seemed to gather impetus with each recurring year, aided, doubtless, by Bering's own record of his voyages, that a rich country lay in the "Far Beyond," and so the Russian government was stimulated to persist in its efforts.
IO
ALASKA.
In 1741 Bering again set sail with two vessels. Severe weather and heavy fogs caused them to drift apart; one of them attempted a landing at Cook inlet, but the Indians attacked and killed a number of the party, and caused the remainder to put to sea and make their way homeward as fast as possible.
Bering, however, sailed farther eastward, and sighted an island near Cape St. Elias now known as Kayak island. There appears to have been no extended exploration at that time; for, ere long, we are told, Bering also turned the course of his vessel westward, and, being beset by violent storms, was stranded east of the Gulf of Kamtchatka, upon the island which now bears his name: and there shortly after, being overtaken by disease, he died and was buried.
To this fearless explorer belongs the honor of discovering and naming Mt. St. Elias, which, towering 18,000 feet heavenward, stands a weird and grandly beautiful monument to his memory. This snowy shaft marks the southern point of the boundary line separating Southeast Alaska from the great region, extending many hundred miles northward to the frozen ocean, known as Western Alaska: an august sentinel, clad in robes of white, there it stands, forever keeping a silent vigil over the waters of the mighty Pacific.
The Spaniards, in the prosecution of their search for the sup- posed passage to India, which was the great objective point of their early navigators, were gradually extending their explora- tions northward from the South American and Mexican coasts. In 1592 Juan de Fuca reached as far north as the strait that now bears his name, and in 1775 we find that Spanish explorers had reached Sitka.
The Russians, in the meantime, had arrived at Unalaska.
Nor had the English forgotten to send representatives to this new field of exploration. Captain Cook, one of the most daring navigators of his time, justly shares with Bering, who preceded him, as does also his young lieutenant, Vancouver, who followed him, the glory and honor of navigating the waters of Bering sea and the North Pacific. It was on his return voyage that Cook was treacherously killed, and, it is believed, cooked and eaten, by the natives on one of the Sandwich islands.
The uncompleted work of Captain Cook fell upon the shoul- ders of a worthy successor, and the surveys which Vancouver commenced about 1792 covered his name with glory. The re- markable care and ability with which he executed the work begun
II
HISTORY
by his old commander are, even in this day of improved facilities of maritime science, held in honor; for his charts are closely fol- lowed, and in the main found reliable.
From the time of the planting of the Czar's flag upon the soil of this great unknown country its honor was sullied by acts of oppression and cruelty. The Russian-American Fur Company had securely planted its trading posts throughout the new terri- tory, but its rule was characterized by the most barbarous con- duct, and it became so notorious that at the expiration of its char- ter in 1862 the government was forced to deny further franchise.
Three years later, in 1865, the Western Union Telegraph Com- pany proposed to construct a line from San Francisco northward through the Pacific States and Territories to connect with the Russian line at its then terminus, Amoor, Siberia. Many miles of line were built, but the route failed of completion because of the successful laying of the Atlantic cable, and after an expendi- ture of over $3,000,000 the enterprise was abandoned.
The path of the proposed route can yet be traced for many miles in the northwest territory by the poles that are standing with wires stretched between them. The outpost of the party en- gaged in its con- struction reaclı- ed a point and made its winter quarters within sixty miles of the extreme western limit of . the continent, and the remains of two members of the party lie buried in graves RUSSIAN BLOCK HOUSE AT SITKA. dug in the icy shore, two miles east of the United States reindeer station at Port Clarence, Alaska.
12
ALASKA.
The United States purchased Alaska-from Russia in 1867, paying the sum of $7,200,000 for the same. At the time of the purchase this was generally looked upon as an extravagant ex- penditure; but ridicule at the action of Secretary Seward in this transaction has been changed to a sentiment that credits him with shrewd diplomacy in thus securing this great territory.
Conjecture is never idle and various reasons have been assigned why Russia disposed of her vast possessions on this continent.
It has been said that the United States commenced the nego- tiation to remunerate Russia, under the guise of purchase, for her friendly attitude toward us during the civil war. Many also believe that Russia sought to dispose of this territory to the United States that England might not, in some way, absorb it, and so strengthen her already powerful hold on this continent. The most reasonable solution of the question however, is, that she wished to be relieved of the care and protection which her subjects so constantly required of her in maintaining the sem- blance of a government on this continent, and so far removed from her own shores. This view is also strengthened by the fact that Russia at 110 time from the earliest acquisition of the territory manifested any special interest in its development, and that the motives that actuated her in holding her possessions were largely influenced by the Russian-American Fur Company.
While the name "Alaska" has been a synonym for a bleak, inhospitable waste of ice and snow, its literal interpretation will permit of no such construction. The aboriginal word is "Al-ak-shak," and means a great country.
Covering a country eight hundred miles north and south by about seven hundred east and west, containing six hundred thousand square miles, or an area equal to one-fourth of all the rest of the United States, it seems an empire in itself, and to have received a most appropriate name.
It was Charles Sumner, who, at the time of the purchase, suggested the name "Alaska," and it was as a compliment in return for his warm advocacy of the purchase that Secretary Seward sanctioned the suggestion.
In 1890 the lease of the fur seal islands to the Alaska Com- mercial Company expired, and at that time Alaska may be said to have emerged from a mantle of gloom and desolation. By this, we mean, that the great barrier in the way of its develop-
I3
HISTORY.
ment was removed when this industry passed into other hands.
The day that marked the lowering of the Russian flag at Sitka and the hoisting of the stars and stripes realized the con- ception of a plan between a few shrewd men who saw in the fur seal industry a great opportunity to make money. For many years, under the Russian regime, these islands had been made to yield a large revenue to those who controlled the business, but it remained for the men who formed this new combination to make it one of the richest private enterprises that ever thrived under this or any other government.
Quietly and before the vastness of the undertaking became known it had passed into the hands of men who knew how to manipulate it, and for a period of twenty years millions of dollars were made and many men became millionaires. Nor did the avarice of the combination stop here. Trading posts were estab- lished all along the southern coast, and within a short time upon the banks of every stream of any importance that pours its waters into Bering sea a trading post was stationed, and a sharp, shrewd frontiersman, in the employ of this company, was there to trade his wares to the natives in exchange for furs.
It is reasonable to suppose that a combination which had the foresight and tact to secure from a great government the monopoly of so rich a franchise would also be able to absolutely control all the territory it sought to encompass from the encroachments of competition. During the entire time that the company held possession of this lease it took care that the impressions should prevail that Alaska was good for naught save the production of fur-bearing animals. In doing this it used the strategy which other business corporations would be likely to use to protect their own interests.
But the eyes of an adventurous world are never long blinded, and during the last years in which they controlled this lease the company were charged with every conceivable crime, and were constantly obliged to defend themselves against charges of mis- treatment of natives. Investigation, however, always exonerated them, and showed that the complaints were the outgrowth of petty malice on the part of discharged employes or of jealousy among rival fur dealers who were not in the combination.
By the terms of the lease it was liable at any moment to be annulled for neglect or mistreatment of natives, and this would " destroy the goose that laid the golden egg." Knowledge of
14
ALASKA.
the business methods of these men will effectually dispel any suspicion that they would, by word or deed, commit an offense that would destroy the source of so vast a revenue.
But there came a time, when the grip that this company held upon Alaska must be relaxed, and the spring of 1890 saw the lease of the fur seal islands pass into the hands of the North American Commercial Company.
The whole southern coast was invaded by the new combina- tion, which established trading posts at every point that promised business with the natives. With the advent of the new company, a monthly mail route, for seven months of the year, was opened from Sitka to Bering's sea, and postoffices were established at different points, thus affording an opportunity to reach sections of the country that theretofore had been practically unknown.
While the extension of the mail service has not yet resulted in the building up of any considerable towns or villages, the effect has been to open communication between the southern coast of Alaska and the outside world.
The census of 1890 gave the white population at 4,300, but during the last four years these numbers have been largely aug- mented, and it is safe to say that the white population has been more than doubled. Since that date, also, the mining interests of the territory have largely increased, especially in the interior, and with the discovery of gold in the Yukon region, the country has grown with great rapidity.
The government of Alaska, covering the period from its acquisition to the year 1884, was more of a military form than otherwise. The only officers stationed in the territory were those belonging to the customs service. It was their duty to see that any infringement of the laws, as for instance, smuggling liquor into the territory, or selling the same to Indians or white men, were corrected ; and, if necessary, they invoked the aid of the military or naval force.
About the year 1880, the white residents of Southeast Alaska began to discuss the feasibility of securing some sort of civil government for the territory. And in the summer of 1881, a convention was held at Juneau, which resulted in the selection of Mottrom D. Ball as a delegate to Congress. The following winter he appeared in Washington, presented his credentials, and asked to be recognized as a delegate from the territory of Alaska. Further than to attract some attention to the condition of its
15
HISTORY.
affairs, Mr. Ball's visit to Washington was of no great value, for he was not permitted to take his seat. Still the wedge had been applied to the encasement of the difficulties that encompassed Alaska, and the light of intelligent investigation was dawning on her horizon. During the next session of Congress, various bills were introduced looking to the passage of laws that would give to Alaska some semblance of a civil government.
In 1883, Senator Benjamin Harrison introduced a bill, which became a law in the following summer. It is called " The Organic Act of Alaska," and provides for the appointment of a governor, district judge, clerk of the court, marshal, collector, and four United States commissioners, one of whom is to reside in each of- the principal towns of the territory, the other officers to reside at Sitka, which, by this act, was made the temporary capital ; and all these officers were to be appointed by the President. This act, though very defective, when viewed by the light of the past ten years, was still a step in the direction of a civil govern- ment.
Alaska is essentially a prohibition country. It prohibits the cutting of timber, and the exporting of the same out of the ter- ritory ; it prohibits the killing of fur seal, except under certain restrictions, which give to a company the exclusive control of the same; it prohibits the importation, sale, or manufacture of whisky in the territory, though it can be had in almost any vil- lage or hamlet within its borders; and notwithstanding this absolute prohibition, the government has seen fit to collect an internal revenue tax from all persons having it for sale. The Governor is permitted to use his discretion as to whom he will grant a license ; it must, however, be to a druggist who will sell the same purely for medical, mechanical and scientific pur- poses.
The attempt on the part of the government to restrain this traffic in Alaska has proven a farce, because of the wholly inade- quate means at the disposal of the officers, whose duty it is to execute the laws.
From the earliest settlement of Russian America down through the years since the purchase by the United States, the liquor question has overshadowed every other, and the sturdy miners and those following other pursuits, and especially the missionary people have been in constant anxiety as to the effect unexecuted liquor laws would have upon the native population. While they
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