USA > Alaska > Alaska: its history and resources, gold fields, routes and scenery > Part 7
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11
It may be interesting, while noting some of the resources of Alaska, to mention some of its exports since the United States acquired possession; to demonstrate the wisdom of the purchase and show that the vast and varied resources of our great north- ern possession are worthy of more than a passing word.
In this connection, also, it may be interesting to refer to executive document number thirty-six, of the House of Repre- sentatives, second session, Forty-first Congress, 1869, which is based upon the report of a special agent of the Treasury Depart- inent,
It says, that at six per cent. interest on the seven million two hundred thousand dollars paid for the territory, together with the expense of maintaining the government there, would amount in twenty-five years to the sum of forty-four million dollars. And that, with the most liberal estimate of income from the fur seal islands, and from customs duties, an amount not to exceed one hundred and ten thousand dollars per annum conld be real- ized. And from no other source but a most extraordinary con- dition of circumstances, such as the discovery of large deposits of mineral, could any material increase in reventie be looked for.
The agent's estimate of the revenue was as erroneous in the matter of the fur seal islands as in other directions. For from this source alone there has been paid into the national treasury nearly nine million dollars.
The following table, carefully compiled from official records, will show how far the "extraordinary circumstances " have con- spired to make the purchase of Alaska not only a shrewd piece
74
ALASKA.
of diplomatic sagacity, but that Seward's "ice box " has proven a most profitable investment:
Furs $53,000,000 00
Canned salmon
10,000,000 00
Whalebone
10,000,000 00
Gold and silver
6,000,000 00
Whale oil
3,000,000 00
Codfishı
1,600,000 00
Salted salmon
800,000 00
Ivory
160,000 00
Total
$$4,560,000 00
I
1
F
1
I
1
1
I
I
1
I
I
1
1
1
1
1
1
F
CHAPTER IX.
THE TOURIST ROUTE.
THE tourist route to Alaska extends from Seattle to Sitka, and
lies over a course which, for nearly twelve hundred miles, is almost entirely through narrow channels bordered by high mountains that completely prevent the sea from becoming rough. If an occasional glimpse of the waters of the North Pacific ocean were not obtained, when passing from the shelter of one island behind the precipitous shores of another, one would never realize that he was enjoying all the pleasures of a sea voyage, with but few of the discomforts.
The Pacific Coast Steamship Company of San Francisco, ex- tended its route northward to this country some ten years ago. And upwards of five thousand tourists, each year since, have seen an endless panorama of scenery unfolded to their view throughout the entire distance.
The vessels are large, comfortable and convenient, and the appointments throughout, are especially adapted for the sort of trip made ; and every facility is afforded for complete enjoy- ment. and every opportunity given to see and learn all there is to discover, on this greatest of tourists' routes
A semi-monthly mail is carried by the Pacific Coast Steam- ship Company to the different points on this route, and besides the steamers thus employed, the palatial steamer "Queen, " three thousand tons burden, having accommodations for two hundred and fifty first-class passengers, makes semi-monthly trips during June, July and August. There is no time in the year, however, when communication to all points on this route is not made regularly twice each month, but during December, January and February a single steamer only is necessary to take care of the traffic.
While the universal verdict of those who are so fortunate as to be able to take a trip to Alaska is that it is one round of charm-
76
ALASKA.
ing surprises, and the scenery superior to that found in any other part of the civilized world, the great secret of the popularity of the Alaskan trip is the courteous and attentive treatment received from the employes. The masters have all been on this route for many years, and they never forget, for an instant, to afford the passengers every opportunity to see and enjoy to the fullest extent all sights and pleasures possible.
The most favorable time for making the trip is from the first of June until the last of August ; yet a month earlier or later presents many opportunities for enjoyment. The long periods of twilight which prevail in this latitude, in the spring and fall months, strikes one as strange, and a better view is often afforded in the subdued light of "early morn and dewy eve."
The dry subject of enumeration of the articles needed on this trip may be abbreviated by the simple suggestion that one should carry such articles as are usually needed on a journey of two or three weeks, being careful to have clothing that is warm and suitable for an unusually rainy country.
Seattle, which bears the illustrious title of the Queen City of the Northwest, is situated upon an indentation of Puget sound, forming a perfect harbor, almost circular in shape, and named Elliott bay.
It is a substantial, well-built city, having a population of more than sixty thousand, and it presents in every way, the air and activity of a live, bustling and enterprising city. Although founded 'way back in the fifties, the real growth of Seattle dates from 1889, when the entire business portion of the city was laid in ashes, and almost every vestige of the early uncouth, ill-built town was swept away.
The wooden buildings and shacks that lined the business streets have been replaced by modern brick and stone blocks, elegant in construction and imposing in appearance. The city is modern in every respect. It has a magnificent system of water works and sewers, is well lighted and has good streets, over which there is a complete network of street railways reaching to the different suburban towns, and to the many beautiful parks and lakeside resorts, for which the city is justly noted and which are the admiration of the tourist.
Lake Washington, the pride and delight of Seattleites, is a beautiful sheet of water, lying east of the city, about twenty-five miles long, and averaging three in width. Its shores are dotted
LA ROCHE PHOTO -SEATTLE
¿GRENVILLE CHANNEL, ON TOURIST ROUTE.
77
THE TOURIST ROUTE.
with summer residences, and its bosom bears numberless pleas- ure craft of varied form and design, while many steamers ply the lake for commercial purposes. The lake is reached by four lines of street railways, two cable and two electric. Adjoining Lake Washington, and but a short distance north, is Lake Union, a smaller but fine lake, surrounded by pleasant homes ; and still another beautiful sheet of water is Green lake, northeast of the city. All of these lakes contain abundance of trout and other fish. Sixty miles away, to the south, snow-covered Mt. Rainier raises its lofty head, standing hoary and magnificent. It over- looks the great inland sea called Puget Sound, and the many cities and villages that thrive upon its shores.
Among the numerous parks within easy distance of Seattle are Ravenna, Woodland, Madrona, Leschi, Madison Street and Kinnear, beautiful natural parks to which art has leant com- pleting touches. The city las excellent schools, and the differ- ent religious denominations are well represented, there being fifty-six places of worship in the city. There are also two opera houses; the Seattle Theatre is one of the finest on the Pacific coast. The city is undoubtedly the commercial metropolis of the northwest. It is the entrepot for an immense stretch of country rich in lumber, coal and other natural resources; the wonderful shipment of lumber being the most important industry, although the coal business is large and steadily growing. Its citizens are enterprising, and the unanimity with which all labor for the common advancement of the city's interest has often been com- mented upon with praise.
Tacoma, called by its citizens the "City of Destiny," is situ- ated on Commencement Bay thirty miles south of Seattle, and is a point often visited by tourists en route to Alaska. Tacoma is an enterprising city of some forty-five thousand people, and has had a phenomenal growth. It is the second city in size and importance in the State and is modern in all respects, having many business enterpises, manufactures, electric and cable rail- ways, schools, churches, etc. South of the city about thirty miles distant, rises Mt. Rainier, but in Tacoma the name " Rainier " is never heard, except from a stranger or perhaps a Seattle man. Here it is lovingly referred to as " Mt. Tacoma," and the mountain with the dual name has been for years the source of much good natured badinage between the two rival cities of Puget Sound, as well as a source of amtisement and
78
ALASKA.
sometimes of perplexity to those not acquainted with the con- tention over the name of the grand old sentinel which overlooks the great inland sea.
A journey of forty miles on the waters of Puget Sound brings the vessel to its first stop on the route-at Port Townsend - having a population of thirty-five hundred people. It is most picturesquely located, having a beautiful harbor with water of sufficient width and depth to permit the largest ocean vessels to sail up to its wharves. The business portion of the town lies principally along the water front and the residences occupying a level plateau fifty feet or so above, affording a charming view of the Sound for many miles. On a commanding spot is a beautiful stone customs building just completed by the government at a cost of two hundred thousand dollars, and a half mile further to the west stands a strikingly handsome court house. This is the last port of entry in United States territory until Alaska is reached, and all vessels clear here before starting on their long voyage to the north. At present the only communication with the Puget Sound cities is by several lines of steamers each day, but there is good prospect of the railroad now running but a score or so miles to the south being extended so as to afford direct railroad communication with Olympia and the east.
The Alaska boat usually takes on passengers in greater or less numbers at this port, discharging also freight and passen- gers for San Francisco, on its return voyage.
A delightful ride of three hours across the Strait of Juan de Fuca, where sometimes a little motion of the vessel is felt should wind blow from the ocean, seventy-five miles to the west, brings us to Victoria, where a wait of an hour or so affords opportunity for those who are desirous of doing so, to step on English soil and admire the handsome buildings, neat gardens and grass plats, and observe the manners of a community whose every appearance stamps them as wholly and essentially Englishi.
Just across the little strip of water, to the north, the staff bearing aloft the Britishi flag can be seen, and under its shadow small squads of marines are distinguished going through a brief guard maneuvre, while an occasional blast from a bugle eclioes a call across the water from the English naval station of the north Pacific at Esquimalt.
When the steamer is again under way the journey to Alaska really begins, and the steady puffing of the engine and the vibra-
JAROTHE PHOTO SEATTLE
"THE GREAT TREADWELL MILL.
79
THE TOURIST ROUTE.
tion of the ship are felt for three days, while the six hundred and twenty-five miles before reaching the first stopping place in Alaska, twenty miles across the boundary, are traveled.
It is not unusual, however, for the steamer to put in at Nanaimo, a town about sixty-five miles north of Victoria, on the east side of Vancouver island, for coal. Extensive deposits of a superior quality of bituminous coal are here located, large quantities of which are shipped to San Francisco and Alaska. About two thousand men are employed in these mines, and the coal is sold at three dollars per ton. Three miles north of Nanaimo, Departure Bay is also frequently visited for coal by Alaskan steamers. Vancouver island is about three hundred miles long by about fifty wide, and is the largest of the many islands on the coast of the North Pacific. It is densely wooded throughout, and its sides in many places are high and precipi- tous. The dense growth of timber and underbrush is inter- spersed with many little streams of water which, flowing down- ward, together with the deep indentations extending inland, lend beauty and variety to the scene.
One hundred miles through the Gulf of Georgia, between Vancouver and Valdez islands, the narrow pass - Seymour Nar- rows -is reached. It has a tremendous current, and at ebb and flood tide is a veritable maelstrom, with whose swift flowing waters the most powerful machinery is unable to cope. At low tide, a shattered series of rocky ledges are seen, with torrents of water rushing between and over them, and the whirling cauldron is enough to strike terror to the heart of the most daring navi- gator. The passage is always made when the tide is nearly full. The captain of an Alaskan steamer, on one occasion, lost con- trol of his vessel here. It reeled and staggered as the inad waters lashed against its sides, and sought to drag it into the boiling sea. It swept around in the torrent, but finally drifted into less turbulent waters and passed through without encoun- tering any damage.
The United States steamer Saranac was wrecked here in 1875. She was caught in the rush of waters, but succeeded in reaching the shore of Vancouver island, although after her officers and crew had safely landed, she was drawn into the whirlpool and sank out of sight. The United States steamer Wachuset, seven years later, had an exciting experience in these waters, but fin- ally stemmed the current and passed out, after having a portion
ALASKA.
of her keel swept off by the fierce current. Many smaller vessels were partially or wholly wrecked before the dangers of these narrows became known.
Johnstone strait for fifty-five miles, and Broughton strait for fifteen miles -immediately to the north - both pass between land more or less abrupt, and the picturesque scenery encoun- tered before Seymour Narrows is reached, is again presented. Jolinstone strait opens into Queen Charlotte Sound, which for fifty miles presents an expanse of water fifteen miles or so across, until it in turn meets the waters of Hecate strait. The broad expanse of the ocean is seen only while the ship is speeding over the thirty-five miles intervening, before she enters the land- locked shores of Fitz-Hugh Sound. From here to the end of the inland channel at Sitka, with the exception of fifteen miles at Milbank Sound, where in a south wind, and again at Dixon En- trance, the water may become rough for an hour or so, to add, as it were, a little spice to the smooth sailing which might other- wise become monotonous.
Beginning here, the route is one continuous chain of labyrin- thian passages, winding hither and thither through narrow de- files, with mountains rising many hundred feet on both sides, covered from base to peak with a dense coat of fir, whose outline is mirrored in the water below. "The Mystic Maze" would be an appropriate name to apply to this enchanted route. Oftimes the prow of the ship is headed for what appears to be a mnou11- tainous barricade, but a sudden turn reveals a continuation of the pathway, and an outlet to endless charming nooks and glassy waters.
The first glimpse of Alaska after emerging from Grenville channel, into the waters of Chatham sound which separates British, from American territory, is Tongas island, the home of a tribe of natives scarcely numbering three score, the remnant of a once numerous tribe. They occupy the site of old Fort Toll- gas which, during the first eight years after the acquisition, was the headquarters of a company of United States troops. No opportunity is afforded to examine the country in this vicinity save from the deck of the vessel. Thirty-five miles farther on Mary Island is sighted. The steamer blows a shrill whistle, the speed of the engine is slackened, and immediately, the stars and stripes are hoisted upon the staff of the Custom House. As soon as the anchor is lowered, the captain goes ashore to execute
241
THE TREADWELL LEDGE.
THE TOURIST ROUTE.
such papers as are necessary to comply with the laws and enable the vessel to proceed northward. At this station a deputy col- lector is taken aboard, who makes the trip to Sitka and return, and whose business it is to see that no whisky or other contra- band goods are landed or taken on board the ship. An hour is spent here, when the machinery is set in motion and the vessel again swings on its course towards New Metlakahtla. This point is off the main route some fifteen miles, so it is only when there are goods to be discharged that the vessel pauses at one of the most interesting points on the whole journey. An approach to New Metlakahtla shows, quietly nestling on the side of a gentle slope of ground, stretching back from a long pebbly beach, two or three hundred houses, many of them neatly painted, with a church edifice, large school building, store, saw- mill and salmon canning establishment. There is nothing about the appearance of the place, until the faces of the residents are seen, to suggest that it is the home of the Chim-sy-an tribe of natives, whom Mr. Duncan brought from Old Metlakahtla a few years ago. Every branch of business pursued by whites, in towns of similar size, is here carried on, and the eight hundred and fifty or more people are thrifty and contented. In the chap- ter on the boundary dispute a more extended reference is made to Mr. Duncan and the people whom he has brought from the degradation of savagery to a high state of civilization.
Retracing its course to Tongas Narrows, the steamer runs alongside of the wharf at Ketchikan. Six years ago this was the site of a salmon cannery, which was destroyed by fire. It is now a trading post, and salmon are salted in large numbers. Should it be the season for the salmon to run, the little stream which flows down through the hills to the east of the village, will be literally filled with the humpback variety. Here the first postoffice in Alaska is found, and the first glimpse of the Alaskan Indian, in his native state, is also obtained here.
A stop of an hour, and the steamer is ready to resume its course towards Loring. The twenty-five mile distance is covered in about three hours, and the seat of what was, until the past three years, one of the most prolific red salmon streams in all Alaska, is found picturesquely located on the western slope of a high mountain. For a number of years from fifteen to twenty thousand cases of red salmon were packed each year by this establishment, but a system of trapping prevailed by which the
6
S2
ALASKA.
fish were prevented from ascending to the lake above, and this has very nearly exhausted the species. The pack is now mostly of the humpback variety. Just back of the cannery the spark- ling waters of Naha falls come thundering down fifty feet or more, and are considered the most beautiful of the many encoun- tered along the tourist route.
At nine o'clock on the morning of the twenty-ninth day of August, 1889, the side-wheel steamer Ancon, which had for sev- eral years been engaged in carrying tourists to Alaska, in attempting to swing around, settled upon a reef within a few yards of the shore and, when the tide receded, broke in two and became a total wreck. The passengers were taken on their jour- ney a few days afterward by another steamer. The accident was the means of affording them several days of amusement, which they enjoyed to the fullest extent.
From Loring to Fort Wrangel about ninety miles of charming scenery is passed, but no stop is made in that interval. Wrangel is the most picturesque as well as largest settlement yet visited. It has reached the phase in history when it lives only in the glory of "by-gone days." For a number of years following the purchase of Alaska, it was the winter rendezvous of miners, who were taking out thousands and hundreds of thousands of dollars in placer gold, at Cassiar and other British northwest territory mining camps, but these claims becoming exhausted, the life and activity of Wrangel also disappeared, until to-day a half hundred whites and two or three hundred natives occupy, with few excep- tions, the same log buildings that were erected during the days when gold was almost as plentiful as water. Considerable busi- ness, however, is done here to-day. There are several stores whose customers are principally natives, with whom goods are exchanged for furs; a large sawmill; a bonded warehouse, through which British goods must pass before being shipped into the territory, up the Stikine river, four miles to the north- east; a Presbyterian church, and the offices of the United States deputy collector and commissioner. Wrangel pursues the even tenor of its way, apparently satisfied with the present, and with recollections of its more varied past. This town was named for Baron Wrangel, who, in 1831, was the Russian governor. Here he constructed a fort, and his troops defeated a party in league with the Hudson's Bay Company, who had encroached upon his territory to traffic with the natives. Soon after our acquisition
refa
SITKA AT 10:30 P. M.
83
THE TOURIST ROUTE.
the fort was garrisoned by two companies of United States troops. The arrangement of the plat, with barracks and officers' quar- ters standing on either side of the square, gives evidence to-day of the time it was occupied by these representatives of the Amer- ican army. Troops were withdrawn in 1870, but the garrison was again occupied by soldiers from 1875 to 1877, when all the troops were permanently withdrawn from Alaska.
It is usual for steamers going north to remain at Wrangel long enough to reach the entrance to Wrangel Narrows, twenty-five miles north at high tide. This is, indeed, one of the most inter- esting portions of the whole trip. The passage through the Narrows covers a distance of twenty-five miles. At half tide, a hundred ton vessel drawing six feet of water could not make the passage 011 account of ledges of rocks and boulders stretched across the whole passage. Hard-a-port! Starboard! Steady! are constantly heard from the captain as the ocean steamer is turned close around the buoys, that locate the shallow water and hidden reefs. While danger need not be apprehended in case of accident in this passage, for the waters do not surge through with the force that causes Seymour Narrows to be dreaded, yet the alertness of the officers, and the caution exercised in piloting the steamer, arrest the attention of the passengers, and give rise to expressions of admiration for the skill of the mariners, who have charge of the craft. Upon emerging from the Narrows a glimpse of the first glacier of any note is had. It bears the name of Patterson, and looms six thousand feet upward, while its ser- pentine form is seen winding over the mountain, and is finally eclipsed by the towering magnificence of the Devil's Thumb, pointing heavenward at an altitude of nine thousand feet. This, too, is lost to view, as the vessel bears westward to Cape Fanshaw, where the course is straight away for the metropolis of Alaska, seventy miles distant at the head of Gastineau channel.
On the right, twelve miles before reaching Juneau, Taku inlet opens into the channel. It is one of the favorite points of inter- est for tourists, and the glaciers winding down through the mountains, are visible for a long distance and pour into the inlet with a front of a mile or more.
The Taku river leading into the interior, is the stream Schwatka ascended on his last trip into Alaska, in the spring of 1891, and it is from the head of canoe navigation on this river that a party of British surveyors made explorations during the past winter
84
ALASKA.
for the purpose of ascertaining the practicability of constructing a trail into the interior.
There is a natural route from this river to the Yukon of but ninety miles to water communication on the inside, but about thirty miles of that distance lies through a low, swampy country, that before it could be used, as a route, would have to be cordu- royed.
The town of Juneau is located at the base of a mountain that rises almost perpendicularly for nearly three thousand feet, form- ing a most picturesque background to this little city. Juneau is an ideal mining camp. Every building in the town, and every inhabitant, bears the aspect of activity and prosperity peculiar to live mining camps. It has but few streets, and they are crooked and narrow.
With but few exceptions, the inhabitants have not found time to clear their lots of the stumps or gnarled roots that litter, as well as make a rustic ornament for every door yard. But there are a number of handsome residences and neat business houses; and a system of water works that draws its supply from the purest of mountain streams, and an electric light plant which for four months of the year, gives way to the brilliant light of lieaven's sun, taking its turn again for four months in the winter, except- ing only a few hours at mid-day.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.