USA > Alaska > Alaska: its history and resources, gold fields, routes and scenery > Part 2
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ALASKA.
are practically a dead letter, yet there has been greater security felt since the appointment of the present incumbent as district judge, who seems to be able to grapple with the evil, and confine it within the least possible unwholesome limits.
The visit to Alaska of Assistant Secretary of the Treasury Hamlin, last year, was followed this spring by the appearance in the waters of Southeast Alaska of an additional revenue cutter for the purpose of suppressing the smuggling of whisky from British Columbia, and although she patroled the waters diligently for sev- eral weeks, and sent officers ashore for the purpose of intercepting cargoes of liquor known to have been shipped into the territory by small sloops, the vigilance of the search was rewarded by the cap- ture of but a few hundred gallons, and the cutter finally aban- doned the effort and returned to Puget Sound.
The nature of the country is such that its many intricate and winding channels afford most favorable opportunities for the smuggling of liquors into the territory, and it is doubtful if any rules could be adopted, even to the regular patroling of its waters by government vessels that would prevent the traffic.
An idea of the extent to which this business is carried on may be gleaned from the fact that in the little town of Juneau, whose population does not exceed two thousand souls, there are twenty saloons in actual operation.
The impossibility of suppressing this traffic has become so apparent that the best and most respected citizens of the territory unite in the opinion that the only way to regulate the trade is to have a license law. If such were the case the men who pay a license for the privilege of carrying on the business would see that only those who are legally authorized are permitted to engage in the traffic. This would suppress the dangerous ele- ment known as "boot-leg" venders, who sell whisky by the pint or quart to the Indians. Many evils which now exist would by this means be effectually remedied, and the government would still retain a source of revenue.
In 1888 the Democrats of Alaska formed a party organization and sent two delegates to the Democratic National Convention. These delegates were permitted to take their seats, and this was the first representation of the territory by her citizens
In the fall of 1889 the Republicans organized and held a con- vention at Junean, and adopted a memorial to be presented to members of Congress. The author of this book who drafted the
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HISTORY.
memorial was delegated to proceed to Washington and present it to both houses of Congress. He was also chosen a member of the National Republican Convention from Alaska.
The memorial referred to represents clearly the condition of affairs in the territory and is here given in full, as follows:
TO THE REPUBLICAN MEMBERS OF THE UNITED STATES SENATE AND HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES.
We, the Republicans of Alaska in convention assembled, respectfully represent to your honorable body, that on this the fifth day of November, 1889, a day when the Republicans in the various States and Territories of the Union are contesting for the principles of our great party, we are denied that sacred privilege.
Among the great territories of the west we alone stand a monument representing complete and utter isolation and non representation. With an area sufficient to form a dozen States, with resources unnumbered and un- limited, with no manner of expressing our just needs or to demand our just rights, with a population of upwards of ten thousand whites and fifty thou- sand natives, among whom are many intelligent and industrious, we come to you for relief.
With no means of acquiring title to property in which our capital is invested and our labor is expended, we ask the passage of such laws as will afford us relief in this direction.
With many of our people desirous of securing land upon which they can engage in farming, stock raising, dairying and other pursuits of husbandry, we ask that the homestead laws be extended in such manner as will open up this domain for that class of our citizens.
With hundreds of thousands of dollars invested in the fish industry we ask the passage of such laws as will secure titles to their property, and en- courage the development of one of our greatest resources, and one which is fast becoming valuable to the nation at large.
With vast forests extending throughout the territory we ask that the present laws relative to the cutting of timber be so modified as to allow it to be used for domestic purposes by the canneries in the packing and exporta- tion of their fish, and by parties actually engaged in manufacturing enter- prises within the territory, and the exportation of furniture and other wooden-wares, etc., etc., and manufactured from our native timber.
The judiciary of Alaska is anomalous, lying between and dependent upon the general laws of the United States and the general laws of the State of Oregon, and having no true basis from which it can be interpreted. Therefore we ask that a code of laws be enacted for the District of Alaska, suitable to our wants and circumstances and made applicable to our growing industries and communities.
To day Alaska stands alone among the great territories of the west with- out a representative upon the floor of Congress, and we deem it unjust that
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a longer denial of the rights accorded other portions of our country should be imposed upon us.
In presenting this memorial to your honorable body we humbly ask your unanimous aid in our behalf, and we will ever pray, etc.
C. F. DEPUE, Chairman. C. S. BLACKETT, Secretary.
The next Republican National Committee allowed Alaska the same representation as other territories, and the 'Democratic National Convention followed with a like action.
During the winter of 1891-2, General George W. Garside and Miner W. Bruce labored with both houses of Congress to secure the passage of such laws as were demanded by the memorial ; their efforts were so far successful, that the house committee on territories unanimously adopted the bill, which, on the 3d of March of the following year, became a law.
In the fall of 1891, the People's Convention, held at Juneau, selected Captain James Carroll, the well known master of the tourist steamer "Queen," to proceed to Washington, for the purpose of securing legislation. It was largely through his efforts that the bill referred to became a law.
While this bill did not, by any means, meet the needs of the convention, it was thought best to urge its passage, because the case resolved itself, into a choice of this, or nothing.
This law is the only one by which a title to land may be secured in Alaska, except under the general mining laws of the country ; by it individuals or companies may ·purchase land at $2.50 per acre, for business or manufacturing purposes; and resi- dents of towns may acquire title to their lots.
It is worthy of mention, in connection with Captain Carroll's efforts in behalf of Alaska, that when he arrived in Washington lie proposed, should Congress not be disposed to pass the laws needed for the protection of its citizens, that he was ready to purchase the territory of the government, and was also prepared to close the transaction for the sum of $20,000,000 at any time the government would accept it. This proposition, so character- istic of the man, was looked upon by many in the light of a joke; yet it was meant seriously and had the effect of opening the eyes of many public men to the value of this vast new country.
Alaska has no legislature or officers elected by the people at large, but is still treated as a district, similar, perhaps, to the District of Columbia, where Congress directly governs affairs.
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HISTORY.
The passage of the Organic act of 1884, brought into the ter- ritory, as government officials, many men from different states of the Union, most of whom were men of character and ability. In their official capacities, they have had excellent opportunities to familiarize themselves with the vast richness of the territory, and the close of their terms of office has seen inost of them earnest defenders of its interest.
Perhaps the most enthusiastic of its advocates is A. P. Swine- ford, who was appointed Governor of Alaska, by President Cleve- land, during his first term of office. His warm espousal and radical views of the resources of the territory have attracted a great deal of attention to Alaska. He is charged with exaggera- tion and deceit in his statements of the resources and future possibilities of the country; but the developments of the past few years have demonstrated that his pictures are not overdrawnl.
In the fall of 1894, a people's convention was held at Juneau, and a memorial to Congress, similar to the one adopted by the convention of ISS9, and which the author of this book also had the honor of drafting, was unanimously passed.
It was suggested, by some of the delegates, to select as repre- sentative to Congress Miss Kate Field, whose championship of the territory had been so marked that upon every opportunity offered she urged Congress to do its duty and relieve the inhab- itants of their burden. That she has thereby gained the admira- tion of Alaska's citizens, is proved by this suggestion, but delicacy lest the action be regarded in the light of a burlesque, and the fact that no opportunity was allowed to ascertain if the honor would be accepted, finally caused the suggestion to be abandoned, and Mr. Thomas S. Nowell was unanimously chosen delegate to Congress.
Mr. Nowell's large mining interests in Alaska, and his exten- sive acquaintance among members of Congress and officials in Washington, placed him in excellent position to command respect and wield influence; and, but, for the fact that the session was a short one, Alaska would, in all probability, have been recognized and Mr. Nowell seated as its first delegate.
The enormous growth of interest in Alaskan affairs during the past four years, is proved by the call from officials at Wash- ington for all possible information from that quarter, and that this interest is shared by the Secretary of the Interior, is demon-
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strated by the request sent to Governor Sheakely to be present in Washington, during this session. It was fondly hoped that some legislation would be effected by this Congress, still, it is not surprising, that Alaska should suffer equally with other States and Territories in being overshadowed by the many important matters that have consumed the time of that august body.
Only those who have had experience in the matter can realize the difficulty of securing legislation for Alaska. She labors under the exceptional disadvantage of having no one to whom she has a right to appeal for aid.
The members of Congress from other States and Territories have their own constituencies to look after; and the demands upon their time by legitimate claimants are so many and so great that they can hardly be expected to labor for the interests of a country so remote and of which they know so little.
The next few years must bring about great changes in tlie governmental affairs of Alaska. In all probability the great sec- tion known as Southeast Alaska will become a Territory as soon as there shall be a sufficient number of people within its limits to bring about such result, At present there is a widespread feeling among the residents opposed to territorial organization, on account of a dread of taxes, and the expenses attendant upon the maintaining a form of government. But these objections will melt away with the onward rush of civilization.
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CHAPTER II.
TOPOGRAPHY.
THE elements of grandeur, weirdness, solemnity and vastness enter, in a large degree, into a topographical description of Alaska. Its many interest- ing features hold the mind spellbound with awe, in their presence, and fill the memory with undying wonder. The labyrinth of verdant islands that diver- sifies the coast line; the swelling plains of the interior; gigantic mountain peaks, snow-covered and hoary with age; the mighty glaciers-vast rivers of ice, which for centuries have slowly forged their way to the abyss of the ocean, and which, before many more centuries will have entirely disappeared, so that future ages will know them only by the records of their awful sublimity; the active volcanoes rearing their smoking, often fiery, crests among the mountain peaks; and the valleys, great and small, rich in natural resources of many kinds, which inter- sect the interior country in all directions.
Alaska is naturally divided into two great divisions-South- east and Western Alaska. Mt. St. Elias marks the dividing line between Western Alaska and Southeast Alaska, at 141 degrees west longitude, running north from this point to the Arctic ocean. For a number of years it was supposed that Mt. St. Elias was within American territory, but late surveys show most of its base to be just over the line in the Canadian Dominion.
Many of the islands in the inland, or tourist route, have the appearance of half-submerged mountains, and water two hundred
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fathoms deep is often found, where the breadth of the channel can be almost spanned, by the length of the ship.
Fiords are numerous, some of them winding in serpentine fashion a distance of twenty or more miles, into the islands or mainland. The great rivers of the interior drain immense valleys, with mountain ranges everywhere visible. Lakes are abundant, often surrounded by tundra or swamps, very frequently impene- trable, covered with brush, rank grasses, and other vegetation. After the interior is reached-and by this is meant after the coast mountains are crossed, in many places, only twenty or thirty miles from the coast-the soft earth and luxuriant vegetation of the coast country give place to frozen ground, and lichens and mosses on the mountain sides and in the valleys. But though the vast plains of the interior are completely within the grasp of the ice king, for eight months of the year, with the advent of the long days of summer water runs, flowers bloom, and grasses spring into life as if by magic, and their growth is at once lux- uriant and rapid, even though in many places the soil is never thawed beyond a few inches below the surface.
In the far north at St. Michaels, and at Point Barrow, wells have been dug through sixty feet of solid ice, and the same con- dition has been noted on the Yukon, at Forty Mile.
The Aleutian islands, stretching far out into the North Pacific, surrounded by rocks scarred and battered for ages, by the boister- ous waves, are without trees, but they are thickly covered with a low growth of luxuriant vegetation. Between the mountains and the sea are small plateaus or prairies, with soil enriched by vegetable mould, and suitable for domestic gardening. Grass grows abundantly here, sometimes to a height of six feet. It is cured by the natives, to feed a few small Siberian cattle, and they also braid it into useful and often ornamental articles, such as baskets, hats and mats. The growth of this grass is so abundant and prolific that investigators have predicted that this Aleutian country will yet furnish the Pacific coast with its best butter and cheese; while botanists agree that the southern coast country of Alaska abounds in grasses, and has a climate, perhaps, as well adapted for haying as the coast of Oregon.
The Russians esteem Cook inlet, which lies to the north of Kadiak, to be the pleasantest portion of Alaska in the summer season. Its skies are nearly always bright, as stretching far in-
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TOPOGRAPHY.
land in a northeasterly direction it is out of the region of fogs, which so frequently prevail on the coast. Its shores are pleasant, being well wooded and watered. Gold has been found in large quantities, and recent reports tell of still richer placer deposits having been discovered on the inlet itself and on the Kaknu river, which debouches into Cook inlet.
The guiding landmarks of Alaska may be said to be its grand mountains, volcanic peaks and mammoth glaciers. Mt. St. Elias lifts its ermine top over 18,000 feet above the level of the sea. In the distance it seems to have its base on the very shore of the ocean, although in reality sixty miles distant. From the south side of Mt. St. Elias eleven glaciers slowly make their way ocean- ward, one of them, named Agassiz glacier, being estimated to be twenty miles in width and fifty in length, covering an area of one thousand square miles.
Mt. Fairweather, one hundred and fifty miles south of Mt. St. Elias, is about 15,500 feet high ; Mt. Crillon, 15,000 ; Mt. Perouse, 14,300; and Mt. Wrangell is over 19,000.
There are thirty or more volcanoes in Alaska, six or eight of which are in an active state of eruption. Shishaldin, which is 9,000 feet high, is certainly burning, and its smoke may always be seen in clear weather. It is situated on Unimak island near the pass of the same name, usually followed by vessels in enter- ing Bering sea. Pavlof, about one hundred miles to the east- ward, is another smoking mountain; the glow from its crater may be seen reflected against the heavens. Mt. Makushin, at the eastern extremety of Unalaska island, is about 5,500 feet in height, and gives evidence of being more or less active; while the tops of Pogrumnoi and Shishaldin, on Unimak island, serve as beacons at night or in foggy weather for vessels on their way into Bering sea, as they can be seen distinctly, towering above the dense atmosphere. Akutan island has a smoking volcano, 4,000 feet high; and on Atka island there are several volcanoes, from 3,000 to 4,000 feet in height, which occasionally emit smoke.
Mt. Logan, the higliest known mountain in North America, unless it may be Mt. Wrangell, has an elevation of 19,000 feet. Some surveyors claim that Wrangell is a loftier peak than Logan, but its exact height is unknown. Wrangell is clearly within Alaska, but Logan is a few miles east of the line, in Canadian territory.
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Hot mineral springs abound all over the various island groups of Alaska, especially those stretching from the Alaskan penin- sula westward towards Asia. About fifteen miles south of Sitka, hot springs are also found, which possess great curative prop- erties. Consumption. scrofula, syphilitic diseases and rheu- matism are common among the aborigines, consumption being the most fatal ; while scrofula prevails to a great extent, aggra- vated, it is believed, by an almost exclusive fish diet and by rank uncleanliness. Syphilitic diseases, the terrible heritage left these natives, as the result of contact with sailors in the early days, and augmented by uncleanly habits, are likewise common. These diseases are said to yield readily to the treatment afforded by these natural health restorers, the hot springs, and it is claimed they can, to all appearances, be entirely eradicated from the system after a few weeks bathing and drinking the waters of these springs. They all possess similar properties, being strongly impregnated with iron, sulphur, and magnesia.
During the Russian occupancy, bath houses were built at Sitka springs, and bathing tanks constructed, and natives and whites from this portion of the territory frequently visited them.
Hot springs are also found near Loring, and others at Hoonah, these being more patronized, because they are nearer the settled portion of the country.
The aspect of the country about Bering strait is mountainous, but not extremely precipitous. From Cape Prince of Wales, another continent, Asia, may be seen, for the Siberian coast is plainly visible. Citizens of the United States, and the subjects of the Czar of all the Russias, metaphorically speaking, might stand on their respective shores, and clasp hands across the nar- row channel called Bering strait, which connects the waters of the Arctic ocean witli Bering sea.
This strait is but forty-eight miles wide, and the narrow pass- age is partially filled by Little and Big Diomede islands near the middle of the strait. The islands are only two miles apart, and the line of demarcation between Alaska and Siberia runs midway between them. The shallow water of Bering strait, averaging only about twenty-seven fathoms in depth, and the short distance between the two continents, give rise to interesting speculation concerning the connecting of the eastern and western hemispheres by a railroad which would, literally, girdle the world. Fancy
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TOPOGRAPHY.
leaving New York by special limited train, traversing the North American continent longitudinally to the great Yukon valley, then westward to Bering strait, crossing it with the trans- Siberian railway as a connection, and speeding on to St. Peters- burg, Paris, London, etc., and this is within the realm of possibility. Engineering skill has made rapid progress within a decade, and who shall say what the genius of man aided by wonderful inventions and electricity will accomplish!
It will be a physical impossibility to span Bering strait with a bridge, owing to the swift current and the vast quantities of ice which, in winter, are continually flowing through, and which would speedily demolish such a structure. It may be possible, however, that the strait could be tunneled, but it is liere sug- gested -as more practicable-that it could be filled in with rock, allowing sufficient openings for the waters to flow through, and for vessels to pass, thus forming an adamantine roadway between the extreme west and east, as represented by the United States and Siberia.
The mountains that mark the westernmost point of the conti- nent at Cape Prince of Wales are rocky and barren, the ledges standing upon high pillars, with shattered sides, and uneven sur- faces. Towards the base, facing Bering strait, the slope is gradual, extending into a low sandy beach reaching out into the strait a mile or more and then bearing to the north. Endless quantities of rock could be taken from these mountains of solid stone and dumped into the strait, until a roadway, similar to the great wall of China, but deeper, and broader, and stronger, would rise from the bottom of the shallow waters. The expense, it is true, would be enormous-and 110 attempt is here made to discuss scientific difficulties in the way-but let it be remem- bered that all great engineering projects have been first ridiculed and denounced as chimerical, as, witness-the Suez canal, Nica- ragua canal, the Panama canal, and other great triumphs of engi- neering skill. The practicability of the Panama canal, in which the French people invested tens of millions of dollars, though yet uncompleted, has been fully demonstrated. To carry so gigantic an enterprise to a successful completion unlimited capi- tal and labor would be required. In the matter of labor, if white men could not be found, twenty-five thousand Eskimos, who are indefatigable workers, could be utilized. And should the enter-
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prise be undertaken jointly, by the governments of the United States and Russia, the latter would, no doubt, make use of her convicts, as she is now doing in the construction of the trans- Siberian railroad.
Alaska offers many inducements for railroad building. The physical contour of the country, especially in the interior, pre- sents few obstacles, and the numerous valleys afford natural ave- nues for the construction of these great highways. The rich gold fields, the mighty plains of the Yukon and its many tribu- taries, will yet hear the snorting of the iron horse, and the vast coal and gold fields, mountains of silver and iron ore, as well as many other natural resources of this country, will be opened up by the enterprise of the twentieth century. The indomitable energy and power of man will yet lay this vast country under tribute and cause it to yield a golden harvest.
An all rail route from the new world to the old, across Bering strait, would be the connecting link to weld the nations together, in the development of commerce and of the untold riches of little known portions of the two vast continents. That this would be a mammoth undertaking, is not denied, but its possibility cannot be questioned. It is not all fanciful-"the unsubstantial pageant of a dream"-but is rather the living, actual reality, that before another quarter of a century has rolled away a great international highway will be opened up and the nations of the world will become its patrons.
CHAPTER III.
CLIMATE AND AGRICULTURE.
THE beneficent Japan current influences the whole country, even as far north as the Kuskoqum river, and has the effect of soothing the climate of the north Bering sea coast.
Precipitation is very great in the southern coast country. The air is cool during the pleasantest time of the year, in the long summer days when the sun shines most. As a rule, it is clear but few days in the year ; usually, however, in June and July, the sun pierces the deep and heavy clouds that settle over the mountains, and brightens up the landscape. When the sun is obscured, it is liable to rain for days, and sometimes for two or three weeks at a time. But rains here are not so cold and chilly, as in most countries, where cloudy or rainy weather pre- vails for long periods, and, as a rule, are warm and soft.
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