USA > Alaska > Alaska: its history and resources, gold fields, routes and scenery > Part 3
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The average rainfall along the coast is not far short of one hundred inches a year, and at Unalaska, in 1884, one hundred and fifty-five inches was recorded.
The fall of snow in the coast country is also considerable. At times it covers the earth to a deptli of three feet on a level, but is usually damp, and a snow stormn is apt to turn into rain in a few hours, causing the huge bank and drifts to disappear. The mercury rarely falls to zero in any part of the southern coast country, it is more likely to register above freezing point than below during the greater part of the winter.
The climate is much dryer in the interior, rain occurring as a rule, only in the spring and summer. In severe showers it is sometimes accompanied by fierce thunder and lightning, which rarely is known on the coast.
Probably no other section of this continent presents such a diversity of climate as Alaska. The heat of the summer in the interior is sometimes intense, often registering over one hundred degrees in the shade, and it has been known to burst a spirit. thermometer after graduating up to one hundred and twenty.
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ALASKA.
Summer heat, however, is quickly followed by winter cold, and the mercury will fall to fifty or sixty degrees below zero. On one occassion, at Fort Yukon, it was known to have reached seventy degrees below zero. The winter begins about the first of October and lasts until the first of June. The mean temper- ature during the months of December, January, and February, is about twenty-four degrees below zero. This cold weather and long period of winter is felt to within a very few miles of the coast, or from the point where the mountains are crossed.
Nothwithstanding the marked variations in the climate, Alaska is essentially a healthy country. The only prevailing diseases are those of a bronchial nature, and in most cases these troubles can be directly traced to imprudent exposure.
The snow of the interior partakes much of the character of frost, sifting slowly down in intensely cold weather until it lies several inches deep, light and fluffy; but at times, in warm weather, it thaws and settles into a hard crust, affording excellent surface for sledding.
The great precipitation and humidity of the atmosphere in Southern Alaska cause the entire coast region to be clothed in a mantle of perennial green. Vegetation is dense, and the forests magnificent. The soil is rich, though in the heavily timbered section, it is shallow ; and from the most eastern point of the territory to Kadiak, root crops are easily grown. Radishes, let- tuce, carrots, onions, cauliflower, peas, turnips, cabbage, beets, celery and potatoes, yield prolificly. On one-sixth of an acre at Sitka, eighty bushels of potatoes have been raised. It was, however, a plot of ground that had been formerly used by the Russians as a garden and was carefully prepared. Strawberries grow with the greatest spontaneity, and have a flavor equal to those of southern latitudes. Some extensive fields of straw- berries are found under the very shadow of the glaciers, both at Glacier bay and at Yakutat. Potatoes are grown in most of the native villages along the coast country. No system of planting is followed, the rule being simply to bury a whole potato in the ground and when the vines appear above the surface thin out if necessary ; dirt is then heaped in a soft hill with but little of the care given this crop by practical farmers. The potatoes grown here have an excellent flavor, but are inclined to be watery. . The cultivation of the soil by the natives is of the most primi- tive character, and that by the whites is carelessly done.
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CLIMATE AND AGRICULTURE.
Oats, barley, and wheat have been grown on the Stikeen river, where the climate is colder and dryer. The precipitation on the coast is so great that it is doubtful if cereals could mature, except in a dry season. They grow very rapidly, but run largely to stock, and before they can mature, are cut down by frosts or mould through dampness. Silos and ensilage would undoubt- edly be a success liere. Cattle prefer the hay of the country to that imported, and if the two are fed to them mixed, they will separate the native hay and eat it first.
As soon as the snow has disappeared in the spring, masses of herbage spring into life and quickly blossom. Fruits rapidly mature and harvest closely follows seed time. It is a surprising fact that not only on the coast, but also in the interior, small fruits, especially raspberries, blueberries, cranberries and red currants everywhere abound. When the sun shines continually for twenty-four hours vegetable life is extremely rapid, notwith- standing the shortness of the season.
The capability of the soil of Alaska under a proper system of cultivation, both on the coast and in the interior, remains yet to be demonstrated. It is hoped that agricultural experimental stations will be established by the government, in the different parts of the territory, say-one at Chilkat, one at Kadiak, and one in the interior. If this is done intelligent and practical experi- ments with the various grains, roots, and grasses suitable to these latitudes can be made. In the spring of 1894, the author had the honor of appearing before the house committee on agriculture in support of establishing stations as above; and a bill appropriating fifteen thousand dollars for the purpose was unanimously re- ported, but it met with the usual fate of Alaskan measures-was never reached on the calendar. From the climatic influences known to exist, and the good results achieved by the crude, tentative experiments already made, one can fairly infer that the conditions are favorable for certain kinds of crops which only intelligent experimenting will determine.
Stock raising in Alaska, also, must first be investigated. Along the coast the chilly air of fall and winter is very trying, and cold rains, snow, sleet and severe winds are all encountered. Experiments, heretofore made, have not proved entirely satisfac- tory. Foot rot in sheep has interfered with this industry, to some extent, but experienced stockmen, familiar with the interior of
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ALASKA.
the territory, are confident that it presents excellent opportunities for the successful raising of cattle; and believe it is possible that the great interior may, within a very few years, become a feed- ing ground for tens of thousands of sheep and cattle.
The tundra moss-covered regions, suitable for reindeer grazing, prevail throughout the whole western coast country, and, in the interior, for many miles nutritious grass and moss are everywhere found in abundance.
CHAPTER IV.
MINERAL AND TIMBER.
THE first discovery of gold in Southeast Alaska was near
Sitka, in the year 1873. It excited much interest in the small settlements throughout the southeastern coast, and pros- pecting soon commenced in earnest. Miners from the old Cassiar region in British Columbia, and the northwest territory, began to push forward into Alaska, and, in the summer of 1880, gold was discovered in the vicinity of Juneau. From this date may be reckoned the developments that have reached such large pro- . portions and drawn the attention of the whole mining interests in America to our Alaska possessions.
The little Indian settlement at the head of Gastineau channel, which had rarely seen a white man, was soon enlivened by the tents and rude huts of the miners, which were scattered along the coast for many miles; and back into the interior went prospectors, singly, and in parties of three or more, in search of gold, as very strong indications led them to believe, it lay somewhere in this vicinity.
Joseph Juneau was the first man to demonstrate the existence of gold in this district in any considerable quantities. During the early days of the settlement there seemed a disposition to bestow honor upon one Richard Harris, a partner of Juneau, by naming the first mining town after him. So the town was first called Harrisburg, subsequently named Rockwell, in honor of one of the officers of the United States steamer Jamestown, then · located at Sitka; but the inhabitants finally determined to give it the name Juneau, which it now bears.
Gold creek pours its waters down through the deep ravines and gorges that extend back from Juneau for four or five miles. It is impossible to estimate the yield of gold, but it is safe to say that it reached many thousands of dollars. While it was not claimed that any great amount was taken out by one individual, it is a fact that many men found diggings which paid them hand-
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ALASKA.
somely, and effectually demonstrated that they were in the heart of a rich gold region.
About the time of the first gold excitement at Juneau, the re- port was circulated that gold had been found on the top of a mountain about two miles across the bay, and it was learned that a miner, known in camp by the name of "French Pete," had staked off a clain. Mr. John Treadwell was at this time pros- pecting in the region, and investigated this location; being con- vinced that it would prove good property, he purchased it for the sum of $400. By untiring energy, and persistent efforts, he de- veloped the property, forging his way almost inch by inch. He erected first a five stamp mill. The result was so promising that he found little trouble in organizing a company with capital suf- ficient to erect a one hundred and twenty stamp mill, which, seven years after the first discovery, was enlarged to two hundred and forty stamps, and the largest mill in the world was soon pounding out gold. For the past seven years there has hardly been a break in the rattle of the machinery or the booming of the , heavy charges of dynamite, as they are echoed and re-echoed over the channel to the town of Juneau. Day and night during this whole period, with the exception of the Fourth of July and Christmas, and, perhaps, one or two other days in the year, it has never been known to stop. In calling this the greatest mill in the world, we mean that it is fully equipped in every department pertaining to a well regulated and efficient working property; and although the ore is known as very low grade, estimated by some as yielding only $1.85 in bullion to the ton of ore, the gold output from this mine since the full two hundred and forty stamps have been in operation has reached the sum of $70,000 or $80,000 per month.
While the discovery of this rich ledge awakened a widespread interest in Alaska, it was also the means of effecting the organ- ization of a company which perpetrated a swindle aggregating several hundred thousand dollars. A claim adjoining the great Treadwell mine, and represented to be fully as promising, was located, after a supposed thorough and careful system of pros- pecting. German and English capitalists were induced to take hold of it; tunnels were run, machinery erected, and everything made ready to start the operation of a huge plant, when it was discovered that the claim had been "salted." Work stopped at
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MINERAL AND TIMBER.
once, and the mining world was startled by the announcement that the Bear's Nest inine in Alaska was a gigantic swindle. This threw cold water upon the mining development of Alaska for a period of three or four years, and no matter how promising a claim it could not be negotiated at any price. Capitalists look- ing for investments were afraid to venture into Alaska. The rumor, too, became current that the Treadwell mine was a mere "blowout" or pocket, where, by a singular freak of nature, a lot of gold had been dumped in one huge pile, and that it would never be found in paying quantities anywhere else in the country.
During this time, however, a number of men who had followed mining camps from the earliest days of California up through Oregon, into the Cariboo and Cassiar regions of British Columbia, finally drifted into Alaska, and believed they were yet within the mineral belt. Their entire energy and every dollar they could command were expended in the development of mining claims that were staked out in many places along the coast of South- eastern Alaska, and the result of their work has shown that their confidence was not misplaced. Without entering into a detailed or tedious enumeration of the different camps or claims which have been prospected successfully, it is sufficient to say that all through the Southeastern Alaska coast to the end of the inland channel or tourist route, at the very gates of the Pacific ocean, wherein lies America's Venice, gold and rich deposits of silver and galena ore are found. To the energy and steadfast belief of a few of the old settlers in Sitka is due in no small degree the credit of establishing the fact that the gold belt of California and the Western Territories was not riven asunder when it reached the coast range; and when the mountains that tower behind the capital at Sitka are made to yield up the ore that lies buried in their innermost recesses, we believe it will prove to be as rich as any yet discovered in this country.
In several places on Prince of Wales island, and north on Annette island, a number of excellent locations have been found where free gold is scattered among the rocks. Within the past few months prospectors have located claims, the assays of which indicate large and rich deposits of gold. The prospectors for silver, four or five years ago, met with good success, but on account of the depreciation in value of this metal the search for it has been almost entirely abandoned.
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ALASKA.
Passing north towards Juneau, at Sum Dum, is located the Bald Eagle mining claim, which after being thoroughly pros- pected was sold a few months ago for many thousands of dollars. The present season is seeing the erection of a ten-stamp mill at this place; the owners feel fully justified in the expenditure because the ore shipments from this mine to the Puget Sound smelting works promise rich results. The ore is valued at up- wards of one hundred dollars per ton. Northward, within four miles of Juneau, at Sheep creek, the Silver Queen mine is located and a ten-stamp mill in operation. Adjoining, claims have, during the past four years, been prospected, until the probabilities are that this will be the seat of active and extended operations the coming year. Within a radius of four miles of Juneau, besides the great Treadwell mine, there are eight mills in operation and the output is such as to encourage the com- panies in extended and most active prosecution in the work of development.
Gold creek, which comes down through the mountains north of Juneau, and flows into the bay in a rushing torrent of water, drains about four miles of country, and upon both sides the rugged mountains seems to be interwoven by rich ledges of gold quartz. Six stamp mills are constantly at work eight months of the year, and the coming season will see the beginning of develop- ment by the erection of mills on several other claims. A nul- ber of placer claims have been successfully operated there for a number of years, and at what is known as the " basin " many thousands of dollars have been spent in getting ready to operate by hydraulic machinery what promises to be valuable property.
Across the bay adjoining the great Treadwell mine, at what is known as the Mexico mine, a sixty-stamp mill is in operation which will be enlarged by an addition of sixty more this coming season. To the east of that is the Ready Bullion, and a two hundred-stamp mill will be operated the coming year; these two claims are owned or controlled by the company that owns the great Treadwell mine.
Towards Lynn canal, sixty miles from Juneau, the Berner's Bay mining property shows indications that the richness and quantity of this ore will prove as great as any yet found. On Admiralty island, at Funta bay, also, is a group of what will probably prove one of the richest mining camps in the whole of Southeast Alaska. A number of ledges are found that contain
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MINERAL AND TIMBER.
rich ore and rock, which, when pounded out from any of these ledges, yield in every instance exceptionally rich deposits of gold in the bottom of the pan.
At Glacier bay there are many strong indications of silver, the veins being easily traced along the sides of the mountains, which are entirely nude of vegetation. On Willoughby island, in par- ticular, there are rich galena deposits, and up to the time of the depreciation of silver extensive preparations were made to de- velop several of these properties. At the extreme end of Glacier bay are very rich deposits, in which native silver has been found among galena. The owners are carefully doing their assessment work each year and waiting for silver to appreciate so as to re- sume operations.
Passing outside of the waters of the inland canal into the North Pacific, rich mineral indications are found along the coast at Lituya bay. Rich deposits of ruby and black sand stretch along the coast for many miles towards Kakutat. The quality of the gold found in this region is fine, but amalgamates readily, and is easily saved by careful sluicing. Although there has been considerable work in this region at placer mining during the past four or five years, there seems to be quite an extensive range of country yet unworked, or, for that matter, unprospected. Prac- tical ininers who have investigated this portion of the coast believe that a rich and extensive mining section will here be opened up. There is no doubt that gold exists in Cook inlet, but to what extent remains to be determined.
The early Russian settlers are known to have worked at placer mining at Cook inlet, but as yet prospecting to any great extent has not been done in this region.
For the past four or five years prospecting has been carried on at Unga, on the island of that name, and the work has been thorough and extensive. A ten stamp mill was first erected, and last year the capacity increased to forty stamps, and the Alaska Commercial Company, who own the property, feel satisfied that they have a mine which it will take many years to exhaust, and that will prove a paying investment. This section of Alaska has every indication of rich mineral deposits, but when it is con- sidered that the white settlements are very scarce, the means of communication with the outside world very uncertain, and the cost of provisions and supplies very expensive, it is not to be
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ALASKA.
wondered that so little has been done and so little known of the resources of this vast country.
At Golofnin bay, Norton sound, some ten years ago, indica- tions of rich galena deposits were found. The discoverer returned to San Francisco with a few samples of the ore, the assay of which proved to be very rich. A schooner was fitted out and sent there the following season, and in due time was loaded down with the ore; but soon after leaving the bay a severe storm was encountered, and when last seen by the natives on shore she was laboring in a heavy sea, and nothing more was ever heard of her. Subsequently another vessel was fitted out and considerable ore was taken to San Francisco, which proved so rich that a com- pany was organized and in 1891-2 $60,000 was expended on the mine. Another large quantity of ore was shipped to San Fran- cisco, which proved to be as rich as any heretofore taken from this mine, but on account of difficulty among the members of the company work on the property was abandoned. It is understood, however, that the quality and quantity of ore found here are sufficient to pay a handsome profit for its shipment to San Fran- cisco, even at the present price of this metal. It is expected the company will resume operations on an extensive scale this coming season.
The only indications of mineral to any extent north of this point are those reported by Lieutenant Stoney, who spent two or three years in the region of Kotzebue sound some years ago; he having found gold along the Selawik and Buckland rivers. Last summer the author saw an Eskimo near Fort Mor- ton who had in his possession fully an ounce of course gold, tied up in seal skin, which he had found on the Kowak river.
Southeastern Alaska is well timbered, the prevailing varieties being spruce and hemlock, red and yellow cedar. The spruce and hemlock found here are usually of large size, often a hiun- dred feet high and six and eight feet in diameter. The yellow cedar is a beautiful wood, admitting high polish, and is especially adapted for manufacture of furniture. It may easily take the place of mahogany and other tropical and sub-tropical woods. The yellow cedar grows many feet in height, straight and clear, without any defect whatsoever. The wood, when polished, pre- sents a beautiful yellowish hue and is hard and compact, though easily worked. Little is known of the extent of the yellow cedar, but no doubt explorations will discover considerable areas
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MINERAL AND TIMBER.
of this valuable wood. From Sitka westward, the forests become scrubby and the timber small in size, but alder and willow are found in many places. The timber line extends to a height of about fifteen hundred feet. The timber along the lower portion of the Yukon is composed principally of willow, alder and cotton- wood. Towards Norton sound, it grows to a fair size. Spruce is also found, as a rule, on most streams emptying into the Yukon river and Bering's sea. The rivers entering the Arctic as far north as latitude sixty-seven degrees are more or less timbered with the same variety. Along Wood river there are some fine groves of large spruce timber, and back in the interior, and along the banks of the rivers and on level stretches of country, fir tim- ber is also found to considerable extent. Dwarf-spruce, cotton- wood, alder and willow, are also found in the Nushagak and Kuskoqum regions. The willow usually found along the coast west of Mt. St. Elias is scrubby, but in the moraines of that mountain and along the delta of the Copper river it grows to a height of fifteen or twenty feet. In the vicinity of the Noatuk river, in latitude sixty-seven degrees north, spruce, birch and cottonwood are found of a stunted growth, fit only for fire wood and the construction of log houses.
In the Yukon country, from Five Fingers all the way to Koserefski mission, on the Yukon, the timber growing along the banks is principally willow, alder and spruce, the latter being the prevailing variety. It is generally scrubby but many good sized trees are found. The islands in the river from Five Fingers to the mouth of the Yukon are generally well timbered, the larger islands being better wooded than the main land.
The coal resources of Alaska are lying dormant because the time does not seem to have arrived for the necessity of the opening up of the mines. A number of small veins or seams have been found on several of the islands in the Southeastern Alaskan country. Those which, perhaps so far have attracted the most attention, are on Chicagoff island near Killisnoo, where every indication promises an extensive deposit. All the coal found in Alaska is bituminous, and of a very good quality. Deposits have been found on the headwaters of the Chilkat river, Lituya bay, Cook inlet, Unga island and Port Mollar. The most extensive coal fields or deposits are in the Cook inlet country, cropping out on the beaches, and along many of the streams. Unga island has three distinct veins of coal extending a distance of two miles
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ALASKA.
upon the sides of the mountains, each of them being several feet thick. Some work has been done here within the last few years and government vessels have experimented with the coal, but find it contains a considerable amount of ashes and clinker. Doubtless when a greater depth is reached it will improve in quality. North of Unga island, about ten miles inland from Stepovak bay, is a trail or portage about ten miles long leading to Herendeen bay, at Port Mollar, on the Bering sea side. An excellent quality of coal is found here in large quantities. The Alaska Commercial Company, the principal owners of the mine, have shipped considerable coal to their station at Unalaska ; and its quality, both for steaming and house purposes, is found to be superior to that found at Unga.
Extensive coal fields exist at Cape Lisburne, on the Arctic side, extending for thirty or forty miles parallel with the coast and for a number of miles back into the interior. It is of a lignite character, and the government vessels Corwin and Thetis have taken coal for steaming purposes from here, and have found an excess of aslı and clinker, which seems to be the general fault with all coal thus far discovered in Alaska. Strong indications of petroleum are found back from the coast a few miles, in this cold Arctic region, and also between Icy bay and Cape Yaktaga. On the North Pacific coast, west of Yakutat bay, there are ex- tensive deposits or indications of petroleum. Practically all the coal used by vessels navigating the Alaskan waters and in the mills and towns of Alaska is brought from the Puget Sound country and British Columbia. It is bought at the mines for about three dollars per ton, and the expense of shipping to the Southern Alaska ports is five or six dollars per ton. The expense of opening up a coal mine is so great that until there is a large demand in Alaska, it is doubtful if any of the mines will be worked.
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