USA > Alaska > Alaska: its history and resources, gold fields, routes and scenery > Part 8
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All roads lead to Rome, it is said, and all routes in Alaska lead to Juneau. The Yukon miner comes here to outfit for his long and hazardous trip into the interior; all travelers who come to Alaska, whether for business or pleasure, and even the United States Court, if in session at Sitka, the capital, comes here for nineteen-twentieths of its jurors, without whom it could not transact business. Juneau is rightly called the metropolis. Whether she will retain this prestige remains to be seen. If so, one of two things must occur. She must plane down the sides of her mountains or erect sky-scraping buildings with elevators to accommodate her populace, for nearly every foot of available ground is already occupied.
The population of Juneau numbers about two thousand souls; and the enterprise of the people, and volume of business, are shown by the support given to the three newspapers liere published. The Mining Record, the oldest paper published here, is devoted especially to the mining interests of the country. The Searchlight, a metropolitan-appearing journal, in general
FRONT OF MUIR GLACIER.
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make-up and contents, is a credit to the city and its enterprising proprietor. The News, also an excellent publication, is more local in its character, and helps to make a trio of weekly papers which vie with each other in the publication of reliable informa- tion concerning this great territory.
As the steamer turns in its course from the metropolis towards the capital, it retraces its way for twelve miles, and on the right, two miles from Juneau, passes the works which constitute the great Treadwell mine. Dense columns of smoke are seen issuing from the chlorination works which are here burning that part of the ore which the batteries have not been able to separate from the gold. Its poisonous vapors that the humid atmosphere has crowded down the mountain sides have bleached the timber grow- ing there almost as white as the ragged and jagged ledges laid bare by the incessant explosions of dynamite that occur in this mine day and night from one year's end to another.
At the end of Douglas island the ship's prow is turned north- ward towards Lynn canal; but which arm it ascends, whether Chilkoot or Chilkat inlet, depends upon the nature of the busi- ness calling the vessel thither. If to Chilkoot, a view is afforded of the country through which the miner starts with his pack over the portage of twenty-eight miles to the headwaters of that great river, the Yukon, and also, upon the left-hand side, the neat and attractive buildings of the Presbyterian mission at Haines.
If the steamer has taken the Chilkat inlet, at the head of navi- gation, to the right-hand is the town of Chilkat, whose location is marked by a cannery, store and a few other buildings. Fur- ther to the left is the route recently located by Mr. Jack Dalton, who has discovered a way into the interior of Alaska, whence the Yukon river may be reached over a country having a gradual ascent and descent, with no high mountains to interfere, thus. forming a natural route for the construction of a railroad into the great interior. Everybody but the projector and his native employes remains yet in blissful ignorance of the nature of the country passed over. But it is certain that a native in Dalton's employ traveled on foot all the way from the Yukon river to Chilkat, last fall, in fourteen days. This spring Mr. Dalton established a pack train over this route, and upwards of twenty horses are now engaged in transporting supplies for his trading posts in the interior.
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As the ship turns about to resume its course, Davidson glacier appears on the right. This is the first good view of a glacier yet had, and it looks as if a mighty river winding down from the mountain had suddenly congealed while pouring its torrent into the sea below. Davidson glacier has its head a few miles to the west, and is a spur of the series of glaciers that form the frigid bulwarks of ice in Glacier bay, whose fronts rise perpendicularly from the water. The Davidson glacier, however, slopes gradu- ally down leaving a moraine covered with low willow and alder trees.
A distance of sixty miles to the south is made before the ship's course is changed into Icy strait, and is now among float- ing ice, which may be encountered in such quantities as to impede the progress of the ship through the entrance into the bay. The prows of all the vessels are protected with heavy tim- bers, and one experiences the shock caused by the crashing of the vessel into the bergs and floating ice as it pursues its course. When within the bay it is in a sea of floating ice, dodging its way through the heavy "pack" past Willoughby island, until it comes to anchor within two miles of the front of the celebrated Muir glacier. The island just referred to is named after Professor Willoughby, one of the early pioneers of California. As a boy he was in the vanguard of the "forty-niners;" picked up nug- gets as large as walnuts at Suter's mill with Marshall; moved along into Fraser river, Cariboo and Cassiar mining camps; and was among the early placer miners in the camps of Southeast Alaska. He piloted the first vessel into Glacier bay, and was there when Professor Muir made his first investigation of the wonderful river of ice that bears his name.
Professor Willoughby is a typical frontiersman. He is said to have made more extensive explorations in Southeast Alaska than any other man, and to have found more good mineral deposits than he knows what to do with. His claims on Admir- alty island are among the most promising quartz locations in the territory, and the sale of this property will probably bring him more money than he will be able to spend.
My first visit to Alaska, in the spring of 1889, was in the interest of newspapers. I was looking for just such a person as Professor Willoughby to furnish me information about the coun- try. His acquaintance supplied me with means for building up a series of letters upon a subject that made them the most profit-
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CREVASSE ON TOP OF MUIR GLACIER.
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able newspaper articles I ever wrote, and which appeared in many of the leading papers of the country, The "Silent City " of Glacier bay helped also to make it more noted, brought thou- sands of dollars to the person who claimed to have photographed a "mirage of an unknown city," in this bay, from the sale of photographs of the same, and caused a vast amount of discussion on the subject of mirages. Many persons pronounced it a "fake," others a good joke, while some looked upon it in the light of a phenomenon that it was reasonable should occur, on account of the peculiar condition of the atmosphere that prevails in this locality.
If I thought the story a monstrous and ridiculous fake, grati- tude to the man who furnished me with the sinews from which to weave the interesting tale, would prevent my denouncing it as such; and, if I knew it to be a joke, I would consider it the most interesting, as well as the least harmless, that has ever come under my observation.
Two years previous to my arrival at Juneau, Professor Wil- loughby had been exhibiting a negative of a picture which he said he had succeeded in taking of a city which appeared above the face of the glacier in the longest days of each year, and which was brought to his attention by the natives, who called it the silent city. He procured a camera, and in three successive years made the journey in a canoe with natives, and each time was able to make an exposure, but the plate that had been exposed the third year proved upon development to be the only one that contained a picture of the city. It was a weird-looking negative and, con- templating it while the professor told the story with the utmost earnestness and sincerity, one could not but be interested and inclined to believe it to be true. He said that the city always appeared as if suspended in the air, just in front of the Fair- weather range of mountains. The atmosphere was so clear that the peaks many miles to the north were distinctly seen, and every ridge and wallow and curve of the icy crust that envel- oped them could not have been more clearly defined had they been but a stone's throw away. That while asleep in his tent one morning, a native called to him excitedly "to get up;" and upon looking to the north he saw a strange looking object hang- ing over the sides of the mountain, and following the direction of a stream or glow of light which seemed to radiate from the range squarely down upon the glaciers at the head of the bay.
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Gradually it became more distinct, and soon assumed the appear- ance of a city of immense proportions, stretching out into the distance until its furthermost limits were lost to view. The style of architecture was new to him. Buildings of massive dimensions extended in solid and unbroken blocks as far as the eye could reach. The solemn walls of cathedrals arose almost to the skies, and his imagination reveled in silvery music, chanted to a chorus of tinkling bells, that was wafted out from the frescoed aisles through the openings of gorgeously painted windows. The entire limits of the city were confined within a halo of light, dense, yet transparent, pouring its soft glow upon roof and wall and window in glorious transformation. To the right and left a range of mountains, covered with the garb of winter, formed the background. The tops of buildings, and the spires of churches, appeared to pierce its ghostly robes, yet not one breath of their chilled presence extended within the portals of the city. Again, he seemed to hear the bells from the steeples of a hundred churches mingling sweet and happy melody; yet, within the whole length and breadth of this boundless city, not one soul could be seen. Not even a shadow darkened the light for an instant. All was silent as the grave, when suddenly the vision began to move away. Its glories and grandeur lured him with a fascination which he could not resist. But, as he walked forward, it seemed to recede with even pace. Gradually, though he quickened his steps to get within the silent portals before it was too late, it was wafted into space and finally lost to view.
In the summer of 1889 I accompanied Professor Willoughby to Glacier bay, and spent six weeks in exploring the glaciers and surrounding country. Anxious to see the spot where he claimed to have witnessed this wonderful sight, although, I feel free to say, I did not live in very high expectations of gazing upon the silent city. One day we ascended the side of a mountain to a level space affording a glorious view of the whole bay. He took me to a pile of rocks, laid carefully one upon another, to a height of perhaps five feet. Slowly he commenced to throw off rock after rock until an opening was made in the center, and, insert- ing his arm, he drew out what appeared to be a scroll or book made from several leaves of birch bark. It was badly mildewed, and upon unrolling it a pencil fell to the ground. The half-dozen pages looked bright, however, and contained a record stating
THE SILENT CITY.
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that the object of three trips made to this locality, in as many different years, was to secure a photograph of the city.
During the six weeks I spent with Professor Willoughby, the relations between us, in camp and in our travels, were such as to encourage an exchange of confidences on many subjects, and although the subject of the silent city and mirages was often referred to, he never by word or implication gave ine any reason to think that his story was other than a true one.
The city, after the lapse of some time, was finally identified as Bristol, England. In order for it to have appeared in the manner claimed, it must have been reflected a distance of several thousand miles.
Words can scarcely describe the awful grandeur of Muir glacier, whether viewed from the deck of a ship standing close to the front, which extends for two miles across and towers in scalloped and jagged surface two hundred and fifty feet high, or while walking on its top among thousands of seams and cre- vasses, which descend in yawning chasmns to interminable depths. Is it any wonder that, when gazing at this spectacle, one is lost in awe as he sees a solid body of ice winding for many miles . through mountain gorges, breaking off in irregular blocks, many of them a hundred feet square, and tumbling into the water below ? Is it any wonder that the crash and thundering echo can be heard for miles? Is it any wonder that the bottom of this grand inland sea is a hundred fathoms or more deep, when such huge sections of ice, falling from dizzy heights, send the spray nearly to the top of the glacier as they go plowing onward towards the sea ?
I have seen a single block of ice measuring at least four hun- dred feet square, with forty feet extending above the water, silently moving down the bay. Fresh water ice is said to float with seven-eighths below the surface, so in this instance the berg must have been three hundred and twenty feet thick.
Among glaciers, nature is seen in its grandest, most awful and sullen mood. The continual caving leaves the glaciers with lacerated fronts that assume the shape of obelisks, pinnacles and turreted roofs of castles, set with a background of blue which, when touched with the rays of the sun, send back the hues of the topaz, diamond and sapphire in sparkling scintillations.
How many years shall elapse before the last of the glaciers disappears from the bay can hardly be calculated, but they are
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slowly receding and will, before many years, become a wonder of the past. There are ten other living glaciers as large as the Muir, besides a number of smaller ones in the bay, and at the extreme northern end is one nearly as large again as the Muir. On the coast two hundred and fifty miles west from Sitka, the great Malispina glacier presents a front of over twenty-five miles to the sea. A few miles further west they almost entirely disap- pear, and are only found in a few localities just back from the coast in the interior.
About three o'clock on the morning of May 14th, 1889, as we were approaching Glacier bay, Captain William George, pilot of the steamer "George W. Elder," roused me from a sound slum- ber, to come out and see a most startling sight. I dressed hurriedly, and in a few moments was standing on the upper deck; looking straight ahead, I could see snow-clad peaks tower- ing to the skies, seemingly rising from the water's edge. The sound of six bells had just died away when the sun rose above the eastern horizon, sending a shower of rays across the water and up against the sides of the Fairweather range, sixty miles away; the highest of which were Crillon 16,000 feet, Fairweather 15,000 feet, Lituya 11,000 feet, and Perouse 15,000 feet. A faint line was visible extending along the base of the mountains, and as our ship was sailing at the rate of eight knots per hour, the captain told me to make the best of my opportunity, for the awe- inspiring monarchs would soon disappear from view behind the mountains at their feet. Soon I began to realize that they were fast giving way to the dark line ahead which rose higher and higher until we were confronted by a range of mountains three thousand feet or more high, standing directly across our path, and nothing was left of the imposing spectacle which, but a short time before, greeted my eyes.
The following lines were written at the time and dedicated to Captain George, for his kindness in affording me an opportunity to witness the grandest sight I ever beheld:
High up from out the waters, Far-reaching to the sky, Grandly from the mainland, Right glorious greet the eye. Four sharp-peaked snowy monarchs, Clothed full in white array, Fairweather's three companions stand, To hail the dawn of day.
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From out the sullen stillness, Of night's bleak, wizen pall, These monarchs stand in glory, Right regal monarchs all. Their hoary heads uplifted, Majestic to the sky, And at their feet green mountains stand, Like pigmies wondering nigh.
Three thousand feet towards the sky, They seek to look above, And clothed in furry coats of green, Are bathed in tears of love. From out Fairweather's frigid eyes, Kissed by the sun's soft rays, Love's pearly drops increasing fall, Through days and years, always.
And high above, as they look down, These regal forms appear To warn and say " no farther come, Your pathway leads not here. To waters deep, your sail turn back, Else in our shrouds of snow, Vestments made ready for the skies, We'll mourn in clouds of woe."
On through the smooth and mirrored brine. Our ship sails swift and far. But full as swift, aye, swifter yet, Fairweather sinks his star. Behind the green hills near and wild, These spectres disappear,
Nor wait to heed a message sent, Though words of joy and cheer.
Come back, old hoary headed kings! From out the heavens on high; Come back, and show your snow-gemmed crowns, To our enchanted eye! Why seek ye rest beyond the clouds? Why must ye hasten on ? What, gone so soon? then fare ye well, Litnya! Perouse! Crillon! !
The day spent in Glacier bay ends only too quickly, but the ship must travel one hundred and fifty miles further before reaching the terminus of the route, at Sitka. Nearly one hun- dred miles of this course is due south, then the ship turns to feel its way for thirty miles in Peril strait. This stretch of water is,
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as the name implies, a difficult and dangerous passage, and is attempted only in pleasant weather. The water surges and rushes at the rate of six or eight knots an hour, and like Seymour Narrows, is run only at high slack, or between that and high water. Its path is strewn with rocks and reefs, and its swiftest water points are designated as Upper and Lower rapids. At least two officers of the ship are always on the bridge, for here, as everywhere throughout the long journey through the inland waters, their keen vigilance is never for a moment relaxed.
Twenty miles more and the booming of the cannon from the deck of the steamer warns the passengers that another port is reached. Its sullen roar echoes among the hills and announces to the inhabitants that another "steamer day" is at hand. Another messenger from civilization has knocked at their doors, bringing anxiously looked-for tidings from home and friends to those who, from choice or circumstance, have found an abiding place upon our most remote frontier.
Sitka became the capital of Russian-America under the admin- istration of Alexander Baranoff, who served as governor of the Russian colonies from July 27th, 1791, until January 11th, 1818, his predecessor, the first governor, having served from August 3rd, 1784, until July the 27th, 1791. The seat of government at that time was at Kadiak, Kadiak island, five hundred miles west of Sitka.
The especial point upon which the interest of the tourist cen- tered, in Sitka, was Baranoff castle, built by the governor in 1813. It was situated on the top of a hill and commanded a view of the broad expanse of the ocean and of the beautiful harbor, which was studded with many small islands covered with the freshest of evergreen trees and a profusion of the loveliest and brightest verdure. The channels between these islands admit of the passage of the largest ocean steamers, and on a sunshiny day the view is most charming.
The castle, an imposing structure, built of logs of huge dimen- sions, was divided into capacious rooms. On one side was a banquet hall running the whole length of the building, and here, during the occupancy of the Russians, many wild scenes of revelry were enacted. In order to preserve this structure from decay, our government expended $11,000 three years ago, but just after the work was completed it took fire through some mys- terious cause and was burned to the ground.
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SITKA HARBOR.
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Many stories are told, some of them replete with wild romance and crime of early days when Russian barons and beautiful prin- cesses passed days and nights within the castle in joyous living. It is said that Olga Arbuzoff, a niece of Governor Mooraveff, committed suicide by thrusting a dagger into her heart on the fifth day of March, 1826, the very day of her marriage to Count Nicholas Vassileff. The count was old, ugly and of coarse morals, and the lovely princess very naturally hated him. Her uncle, however, compelled her to marry him, though she in- sisted that she would take her life if he persisted in his demands. The princess was very much in love with a young midshipman named Demetrius Davidoff, who was young, handsome and an accomplished gentleman, and whom the governor, when he found they were in love with each other, sent away on a six months'
BARANOFF CASTLE.
cruise. In the meantime the nuptials between the princess and the count were hurried to a consummation. The very night of the wedding the young lover returned and went immediately to the castle. As soon as the princess saw him she uttered a cry, and rushing into his arms, snatched his dagger from its sheath and plunging it into her breast, fell to the floor dead. The horror-stricken youth immediately drove it into his own heart and fell dead by the side of his sweetheart. The following day they were both buried in the same grave. From one of the win- dows in the banquet hall their last resting place was pointed out,
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marked by a simple Greek cross standing at the head of the mound.
The white population of Sitka does not exceed five hundred, including the actual residents, territorial officials, and members of the naval force here stationed. The natives number about nine hundred and occupy a portion of the town known as the "ranche."
The Greek church with its dome painted blue and chime of bells stands at the head of the street. It is a striking, and rather imposing structure, but its most interesting feature is found inside. The altar decorations and the doors separating the inner sanctuary from the body of the church are truly gorgeous. The painting of the Madonna and other biblical figures are superbly set in silver and gold. Many of the natives are members of this church, and the ceremonies are of an inter- esting and unusual character, the congregation standing and kneeling, alternately, during the service.
About a half mile south the Sitka industrial school is located. It is an institution where native children are taken in youth and taught various trades. It is supported by the Presbyterian Missionary Society, the general government assisting in the expense of maintaining it.
One of the most interesting places to the tourist at the Alaskan capital is the Jackson Museum, near the industrial school, con- taining one of the largest collections of Alaska curios in the United States. Many of the articles here deposited, were col- lected by Dr. Sheldon Jackson in his travels throughout the territory.
"The Alaskan" is the oldest paper in the territory, and being published at the capital is much sought after by people abroad, who wish to keep informed in regard to the progress of the territory.
Looking across the bay to. the north, Mt. Edgecombe, an extinct volcano, is plainly seen with the mouth of the crater clearly defined at the summit. An excursion to the mountain and into the crater, five hundred feet deep, forms a very inter- esting trip, but can hardly be made during the one day's wait of the steamer. The ascent of Mt. Verstovoi, which forin a beau- tiful background to this picturesque town, can be accomplished in two or three hours, and the view obtained from the summit well repays one for the effort.
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GREEK CHURCH AT SITKA, EXTERIOR VIEW.
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From the top of Mt. Verstovoi may be seen the great unknown country stretching on and on to the westward. The tourist never visits it, but as the steamer floats out from the peaceful Sitka harbor "homeward bound," the "far off unknown" is seen to fade away in solemn beauty. By and by this region will be opened up to the pleasure seeker, when it will afford a fitting climax to a tour of the grandest scenic route in the world, that which threads the mystic mazes between Puget sound and Sitka.
In closing this chapter on the tourist route, there seems to be need of a passing reference to the great scenic route of the Northern Pacific Railroad, which, taken before proceeding to Alaska, or after the pleasures of that journey have been experi- enced, makes the round complete, and one feels that he has seen all there is of the grand, the sublime, and the beautiful in nature, in all its moods.
To our mind, Yellowstone park presents the only wonders on this continent that can appropriately be coupled with those of Alaska, and the Grand canyon, the geysers and hot springs of this great government reservation, offer food for thought and enchantment for the eye that language cannot faithfully portray. The Northern Pacific Railroad Company has just issued a complete and artistic publication entitled, "Sketches of Wonderland." It is beautifully and elaborately illustrated, and replete with infor- mation concerning the scenic points of the northwest, charmingly and graphically described.
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