USA > Alaska > Alaska, its neglected past, its brilliant future > Part 2
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CLIMATE OF ALASKA-ITS HEALTHFULNESS.
Moist and Temperate Climate of the Coast-Rigorous, Pure Climate of the Interior-Possibilities of Vegetable Cul- ture-Plan for Propagation 236
CHAPTER XXXIV. MISSIONS.
Summary of Missions and Mission Work-Greek the First Church in Alaska-Mission Schools-Teachers and Employees in Church Misson Schools in 1896 . 242
CHAPTER XXXV. EDUCATION IN ALASKA.
Education, as Carried on in the Past-Progress and Plans for the Future-Schools Under Government Super- vision . 248
CHAPTER XXXVI. CANADIAN LEGISLATION.
Mr. W. Ogilvie, Land Surveyor for Canada, and Chief of Gov- ernment Explorers-Klondyke Protected by Mounted Police Under Major Walsh-Laws Governing Yukon and Klondyke Districts-Taxations-Penalties-Duties -Claims-River, Creek and Bar Claims-Canadian Mining Regulations . 255
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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXXVII.
PAGE
ALASKAN LEGISLATION.
The Alaskan Purchase-Summary of all Laws Relating to Alaska-Extracts from United States Statutes : Lands, Surveys, Mineral Lauds, etc .- Seal Islands made a Reservation-Reservations in Alaska : Lands, Forest and Fish-Salmon Protection and Revenue-Cutter Service-Education in Alaska-Traveling Expenses - Revenue Service-Customs, Commercial and Naviga- tion Laws-Enactment Concerning Alaska Statistics- The Boundary Line-Boundary Line Commission- Award of Arbitration Tribunal, Paris, on Fur Seals- Killing of Fur-Bearing Animals-List of Statutes Con- cerning Alaska 260
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
MISCELLANEOUS.
Summary of Topics of Other Chapters-Temperature of Different Parts of Alaska-Kuro Siwo-Japan Current- No extreme cold in Sitka and Like Places on Coast of Alaska-Beauty of Scenery-Military Rule Questioned -Canadian Police -- Alaskans When Civilized Are Honest and Faithful-British to Carry Supplies Across the Ter- ritory Without Duty Right if Reciprocal Prerogatives Are Given -- British Plan of Holding Part of Lands as Reserve Consistent With Plan Suggested for all States of the Republic-Miners Will be Caught by the Winter Weather-Suggestions for Their Safety- Road Over White Pass Begun-Horses for Draught Not Advisable -Burros Better-Reindeer Best of All-Food Important Freight in Former Cases- Reindeer Forage for Them- selves-Dogs Must Also be Fed, and They Are Trouble- some-Reindeer Stations Yet Limited-Increase of Herds Promising-These Deer Are Good for Food and Clothing as Well as for Hauling-Swift, Docile, Faithful -Care of the Reindeer-Siberian Lapps and Dogs Brought From Russia for Herders-Number of Deer Distributed at Stations-Names of Stations-Teller Station Named for Hon. Henry M. Teller, of Colorado -Port Clarence-Success With Reindeer Assured . . . 328
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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXXIX. PAGE.
SUPPLEMENTARY DATA.
Important and Recent Data Relating to Alaska in General -Klondyke-Yukon - Dawson-Circle City-Arctic Region-The Passes-The Frozen Zone-General Data -Officials of Alaska, 1897 349
CHAPTER XL. DISTANCES-APPROXIMATE.
Between East, West and Alaska-Fare, Freight, Personal and Probable Expenses for Outfit, Food, Clothing, etc. 398
CHAPTER XLI. POINTS OF INTEREST.
From Puget Sound to Chilkoot Pass and Sitka 402
CHAPTER XLII.
BIBLIOGRAPHY OF ALASKA.
Summary of All Books Relating to Alaska . 420
SITKA HARBOR.
CHAPTER 1.
ALASKA'S ATTRACTIONS.
I N a geography of comparatively recent date I find : " Alaska is a cold country, and is valuable only for its furs and fisheries. Most of its in- habitants are Indians."
Such is the description of a land whose aggregate area is five thousand one hundred and seven square miles; whose extreme width, from east to west, is two thousand two hundred miles, in an air line; whose breadth, from north to south, is one thousand four hundred miles; whose coast, if extended in a straight line, would belt the globe, and whose great river, the Yukon, running away into Canadian ter- ritory, is computed to be not less than three thousand miles long, two thousand of which is navi- gable, while its width ranges from one to five miles for fully one thousand miles of its course. Its five mouths and intervening deltas exceed seventy iniies in extent. The size of this great river should be sufficient for national pride alone in its possession, but that is not all. Its shores, or at least the country traversed by it, is teeming with virgin mines of gold, silver and copper. The Indians find in its neighbor- hood beautiful furs which they carry many miles in
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1LASKA.
their canoes to the trading posts. The supply would naturally be much greater if there were less laborious modes of conveyance. Prospectors tell us that there are almost inexhaustible mines of coal of excellent quality, actually jutting out before those who have explored the islands and more inland places.
The trip to Alaska is safe and comfortable by the inland passage. Fine passenger and safe freight steamers sail periodically along the sounds, straits and bays protected by the islands of the Brit- ish Columbian and the Alaskan coasts, giv- ing the excursionists the opportunity of gaining the full benefit of a sea water voyage without the accom- panying nausea, such as results upon the broad roll- ing ocean, while the tourist is constantly feasting his eyes upon one picture after another of the exquisite beauty or sublimity.
Think of steaming up to the very base of a glacier whose grand extent and beauty puts to shame the glaciers in Switzerland, which tourists are quite will- ing to make trips across the Atlantic to visit. And the ocean trip thither is not all. Count the miles of railroad travel, the weary hours of climbing, and the comparatively few persons who can accomplish the feat and really behold the glacier fields in their quiet grandeur. While, upon the Muir Glacier of Alaska, the largest accessible one in the world, women and even children may safely accompany the
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ALASKA'S ATTRACTIONS.
stronger excursionists, roam over the vast moraines and among the glittering ice fields and even up upon the pinnacles of ice and hear the thunder of the im- mense blocks and crumbling cliffs and crags of solidi- fied water as they break away and plunge deep into the bay below. One can, on a clear summer's day, watch them as they leap into the clear waters, and then dip and dive as if enjoying their bath before reappearing, when they shoot up their crystal peaks in beauti- ful azure majesty, assuming the name and preroga- tive of icebergs and bidding defiance to approaching vessels and cautioning them to beware of their pres- ence. In Icy Bay the waters are so deep, however, that vessels may with safety sail between and among these iridescent and rock-like dangers.
Alaska is "a cold country" in some of its more northern parts, but in others it has a summer burst- ing forth in green and almost inaccessible jungles of luxuriant undergrowth topped by magnificent trees of valuable commercial wood, with wonderful facili- ties for its transportation. Birds, beasts and fishes can here attract the ambitious camping sportsman, with no venomous tropical snakes to mar the hope of a good night's rest after a day of successful hunting.
One pessimistic tourist writes: "I could not stay here, for it is nearly always night. There is no usc in any one trying to make a living in such a place where there is no light to work by." He did not
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ALASKA.
stay long enough to see the "land of the midnight sun" in all its glory. He did not think of the miners in our own State, who scarcely ever see the light of day, nor did he give a thought to the many thousands of mechanics and tradesmen who are compelled to work by artificial light a considerable portion of each day during the winter.
Even considering all its disadvantages, the wealth contained in the bosom of that large Territory should be sufficient cause for the Government to take a deep and permanent interest in it, and to survey and claim and amply mark its full and proper boundary lines. Think of the possibility of the truth of a statement made by travelers, that the British Dominion actually has government buildings and officers in active em- ployment many miles outside of the legal limits of its jurisdiction. That is, taking Fort Tongas, for instance, as the pivot upon which the boundary line should rest, instead of the thirty-mile claim east of that pivot along the line being left as the property of the United States, according to the treaty, the land was encroached upon at one time many miles beyond that point by am- bitious Canadian map makers, who can see in the "barren waste" sufficient facilities for money-making to render it possible to face all the objectionable points that are harped upon by those who reckon without the host of mines, stamp-mills, saw mills; and fur trading posts that would be erected, and of the
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ALASKA'S ATTRACTIONS.
hundreds of workingmen that would be willing to face the dangers and hardships of settlement, if the boundaries were an actual undisputed existing fact, and capitalists and others found themselves fully guarded by a protecting government force. The valu- able placer gold mines discovered on the Klondyke and other tributaries of the Upper Yukon will compel Con- gress to definitely act in the matter.
If our sister country takes such an interest in the border between our province and hers, it is really time to discover what are the objects for which she is will- ing to work so faithfully and enlist our attention more deeply and fully therein. While we are holding the "cold country" as a kind of disdainful possession, bought in a moment, as some thought, of rash extrav- agance, but really in thankfulness to Russia for her friendliness during the great rebellion, we are quietly letting starve to death the valuable "goose" that would willingly supply us with the "golden eggs " which might go far towards helping fill Alaska's and the nation's coffers.
The inhabitants are mostly Indians in type. It is still a question from whom most of these people are de- scended, and it would only give rise to controversy to attempt to speak definitely upon the subject. But their carvings in stone, metal, bone and ivory display wonderful talent, and the blankets of the Chilkats are surely but slowly gaining world-wide reputation,
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ALASKA.
not only on account of their texture but by reason of the beautiful colorings and designs in which they are wrought by the native women. So much is thought of these blankets that a Chilkat's wealth is ganged by the number in his possession. Here, too, would be a considerable source of revenue, for trade would not only increase the production, but many a cunning chief or medicine man would be tempted by the glittering silver and gold coins of our treasury to sell his store of wealth, and put into the market what would, for a while at least, become a fashion- able decoration for many a foreign-decked boudoir. In fact, my description would become tediously lengthy if I should try to make even passing mention of the many reasons why our boundary should be a fixed, unalterable line; why our half-scorned Territory should have a government of its own, and why the natives should have at least more notice taken of the rights that were intended to be secured to them by the terms of the purchase of Alaska and why its commerce should not rapidly increase.
MOUNTAIN AND CHANNEL.
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CHAPTER II.
THE NEEDS OF ALASKA.
I T is a matter of interest to those who have seen Alaska, who have a kindly feeling toward that distant portion of our country, and who are deeply anxious for its welfare, to know whether the United States is intending to give this tract of land a territorial form of government that will protect its set- tlers, as well as the savage or native portion of its pop- ulation. They surely have the rights of citizens as to claim, and should receive the protection of the Govern- ment to which they belong.
As it is, there seems to be no thorough safeguards for any enterprise, excepting that secured by patents for mining claims, so that practically, in the mining regions are to be found the only inducements so far offered to settlers. A bill for the formation of a terri- torial form of government was introduced in the House of Representatives some time ago, but no de- finite arrangement concerning it seems to be near completion yet. It certainly needs representation.
I have looked in vain for years in each President's message for any mention of the neglected land, except as regards the legal boundary between it and the Brit- ish possessions. It would certainly be well to have that
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ALASKA.
matter settled once for all. At the same time it would be well for our government to take the steps that would stamp Alaska as one of its Territories, and thus provide proper laws for its government, and then furnish a sufficient number of officers, civil and protective, and troops, and an ample naval equipment to guard the coasts and rivers and see to their en- forcement. It is not ready for subdivision yet.
It is natural to suppose that there would be need for some difference in ruling a people so diverse from ourselves in language, customs and methods of liv- ing. But legal arrangements should be made to show them the authority under which they live; let- ting them see that the law must not only be obeyed, but that the same government that will punish an offender against its majesty will also vigorously protect him from interference from outsiders, and secure the rights that 110 one mnay dispute. As it is now, the interior natives are to a great extent as much "a law unto themselves" as before, and in all these years there has been but a limited improvement among the more civilized natives.
Some advocate that the Territory be left in the hands of missionaries for some time to come, that their teachings may fit the people to become citizens. So far, it is well; but do not the missionaries need pro- tection and assistance? Will their work be any the less effective if they have the strong arm of a present
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THE NEEDS OF ALASKA.
power to lean upon? Argue that God has promised to be with those that do His work. But He made laws Himself for the government and protection of His people.
When the Alaskans-notwithstanding many are wild and cruel, yet all are human-find that the land is under one power, irrespective of position, tribe, or color; when they know whether it is a white man or a native who commits a crime, he will be equally pun- ished; when they are made confident that each one who holds property by right will be protected in its possession by common law for all, mission work will be wonderfully aided. How often has it been that the poorly remunerated, overworked teacher has to neglect the spiritual education of one while settling some dispute among others, whereas, if the proper civil authorities were there, he could send the dispu- tants to them and have more time to devote to his own calling.
So far the Government has been perhaps uncon- sciously requiring double duty of that noble band of missionaries and teachers in Alaska. Now let it rise and give them the support of their own laws, with enough officials for their fulfilment, and it will be re- warded by a far greater progress in civilization in the next decade than has been shown in all the previous years since the purchase.
Think of a country whose area equals one-sixth the extent of the remaining portion of the United
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ALASKA.
States, being under a sort of law of origin, and even that liable to individual demands at any time. For instance, a prospector observes an apparent barren waste or forest, but lie also sees facilities for its great improvement. There is no visible owner. He hews his logs, builds his house and in time makes a pleas- ant home for himself, and the spot grows under his care to be a credit to any country. A dark-faced sav- age comes along, by whose advice we cannot say, and demands possession, or perhaps takes it without any question, and with it the settler's hard earned im- provements, for under the purchase the natives have a prior claim to lands they have occupied.
Is it any wonder that such laxity is ruining instead of making the country prosperous? Is it strange that some parts, which years ago gave promise of be- coming places of importance, have fallen off in popu- lation, leaving as monuments to promised industries the deserted buildings? It is not like American en- terprise so to act, nor will it be so when the proper protection is offered to individual projects. By many the blame is attached to the climate. Investigation will prove that we have greater variations in the climate, in our part of the country, than there are in many parts of Alaska. To be sure there are glaciers and icebergs in some places in the northern posses- sions, but so are there waving trees and luxuriant vel- vet-like grasses in other parts.
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THE NEEDS OF ALASKA.
In the future there will be many who will prefer Alaska or Dakota to Florida, and vice versa. As far as my own experience led me to ob- serve it was lovely and healthful. I can see no reason why a tract of land teeming with wealth should be neglected by government and people alike.
From the mines of silver, gold and coal, from the mighty forests of cedar and pine, from the beautiful furs of seal and otter, from the great fisheries of seal, whale, salmon and cod, from the enormous, inex- haustible supply of pure ice, comes the one voice: "Give us the protection of an interested Government and we will not only support ourselves, but will re- turn to the United States a revenue, many times mul- tiplying the amount of her investment by the pur- chase of the district of Alaska."
CHAPTER III.
HOW TO REACH ALASKA AND ITS GOLD FIELDS.
T OURISTS visiting Alaska have such a choice of routes that each individual may consult
his own taste until he arrives at Tacoma or Seattle, on Puget Sound, but after that he will find but one route, by the inland passage, to the Territory, -of which so much has been recently written-by steamer to Port Townsend, and thence to Juneau, Fort Tongas, Fort Wrangel and Sitka. Commodious, well equipped steamers ply between Tacoma, Seattle and Port Townsend, and freight steam- ers make stoppages at small towns and sal- mon canneries on their way, as well as at the principal towns. Sitka is, and has always been, the capital, but Juneau is the principal commercial city and business centre, because it is adjacent to Douglas Island, the location of the large Treadwell Gold Mine. Fort Wrangel is also a stopping place, though it was long since abandoned as a fort, and is now only noticeable for its curious native houses and their peculiar totems. Fort Tongas, at the lower border of the Territory, is also now quite forsaken, though it was once quite important.
The pleasure seeker will find enough of beauty and grandeur even this far to repay many times over the
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HOW TO REACH ALASKA.
expense of the trip, while inconvenience is almost a thing of the past, except when it is calculated with regard to the gold hunters, who must pass beyond the jurisdiction of the steamers and for whom railroads have not yet been constructed.
The accompanying map will give a slight idea of the direct course from Juneau to the Klondyke River, but only experience can fully describe the journey.
The distance from Juneau to this river is about 700 miles. There is steamboat passage from Juneau to a place called Dyea, possibly a perversion of the na- tive name, as Klondyke certainly is. From this point goods are borne by carriers, horses or burros, until the limit of Chilkoot Pass and the adjacent level land is reached, when they are again placed in boats and taken through a chain of lakes, varying in size, on to the Lewis River, through which they reach the Yukon River; after that they have comparatively easy boating down the stream until they enter the gold district. A portion of this route is accomplished by shooting rapids, one of which leads through a narrow canyon, the passage being accompanied by a few min- utes of terrible danger. But the saving of many hours in making a detour to avoid it is considered sufficient compensation to the men who are eager to get to their destination. The dangers, inconveniences and diffi- culties of this trip are supplemented by the impossi- bility of being able to carry sufficient provisions and
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ALASKA.
tools to last any great length of time. The conse- quent deprivation, failure and loss of life will, for a time, have a depressing effect upon the enterprise. At the same time it must not be supposed that these adverse conditions cannot be obviated if active meas- ures are immediately instituted to improve the road and make it more easily passable. In fact, we hear that this improvement has already begun. There is not a doubt that the time is not distant when this part of the Territory will be as accessible as are the Mission fields of the Yukon, or Point Barrow, the extreme northern limit of the North-West. This way is the in- land route to the Gold Regions. The San Francisco route is made by steamer up the Pacific Ocean into Bering Sea, via Unalashka, thence up the Yukon River to St. Michaels, the only town of any importance so far interior at which the regular Yukon steamers, plying between the upper country and St. Michaels, can be taken for the mining towns. The greatest objection to this route is that it is available only about two, or at the most, three months in the year. The great river begins freezing in September and from that time until the warm days in May or June it lies completely locked in its icy vestment. Its tributaries share the same fate, so that the route cannot be very popular for those who start out to seek fortunes with empty pockets.
A third route is by way of Taku Inlet. An entrance is made to the bay thirty miles south of Juneau, and it
ALASKANS AT HOME.
AN ALASKAN INTERIOR .- CHIEF'S HOUSE.
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HOW TO REACH ALASKA.
is the course proposed by Schwatka on his way to explore the great Yukon River. It leads through a flat, com- paratively level country to the Lewis river, thence over that stream to the Yukon and down the Yukon to Dawson City at or near the mouth of the Klon- dyke. The Dyea or according to Schwatka, Dayay River route leads across the mountains from Chilkoot Inlet to Lake Teslin. Here flat boats for freight, and light canoes for passengers, ply over a good waterway direct to Dawson City. Except by the San Francisco route it is impossible to reach the Gold Region without passing through British domain. A fourth route is made quite desirable by the Canadian Pacific Rail- road, which carries the traveler and his belongings over the high plateau to the Teslin Lake and River, whence the journey is the same as the route pre- viously mentioned.
Other routes are now being planned. The bal- loon project is rather visionary as yet.
Klondyke, or Clondike, is a perversion of the na- tive name claimed by one authority to be Thron- duick, or river with plenty of fish. This seems prob- able because of the abundance of salmon found therein at the fishing season. By another it is said to be Clan-dack, or Rein-deer River. The latter is more doubtful as the reindeer has not been known in that region within the memory of man. However, Klon- dyke it is called, and that name rings around the
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ALASKA.
world to-day tempting old and young, rich and poor, with its golden melody.
To such a pitch has the excitement reached that many a poor, deluded man has started forth to push his fortune with very little money and very scant pro- vision for the trip, and literally without even know- ing in what manner he shall find his way to the tempt- ing gold fields. In imagination, wealth in shining nuggets and yellow dust await his coming. But he will find no room for such hopes as he steps upon the crowded steamer; no food for him who has not plenty of cash with which to pay exorbitantly for every creature comfort, however rude; no room for his provisions and outfit unless ample compensation is forthcoming. It follows then that a man must weigh well all the requirements for the journey, and calculate to a nicety all the expenses before deciding upon enter- ing the race for the Alaskan, or Klondyke Gold Fields. One should await the spring weather and better conveyance.
Health, strength, untiring energy, endless patience and considerable money are the only possible guides to success; while a prolonged absence from all the refinements of cultivated society must also be duly considered. The very sight of a linen shirt would be greeted with derision, and any of the delicate ac- cessories of the toilet would call down an avalanche of cutting sarcasm. By this he must know that flan-
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HOW TO REACH ALASKA.
nel shirts-not dainty Ceylon flannel,-tough suits, heavy boots, snow shoes, mud moccasins-really long boots of beaver or seal skin with the fur inside and costing all the way from ten to twenty-two dollars,- close fitting caps with ear covers, plenty of good warm stockings, numerous gloves, and fur outer gar- ments are all absolutely necessary. Food in abund- ance must be taken for fear of famine. To pro- cure such an outfit it will require at least six hun- dred dollars. Dogs and sleds must be had to accom- plish the overland transportation, for which five hun- dred dollars more is requisite. Then fare and boat hire must be computed. $67.75 will land you by rail at Seattle, on Puget Sound, from any of the sea board cities of the East. From Seattle $75.00 will give you every comfort on the steamer until you reach Juneau. From Juneau a small boat is taken to Dyea. After that comes the use of the sleds, or the pack carriers if you prefer their services to purchasing dogs and sleds; then the services of the boats on the lakes and rapids and the wages of assistants in caring for the goods. This latter is a most important ser- vice, because there is danger of losing every thing while shooting the rapids of the Portage and Lake Lebarge. These latter expenses are not computed for us, but they must amount to quite a little sum. After all difficulties and dangers are successfully sur- mounted and Klondyke, or Dawson City dawns upon
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