USA > Alaska > Alaska, its neglected past, its brilliant future > Part 23
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North of Hakai Strait is the D'Age- let Island, named after Lepaute D'Agelet, the astronomer who went with La Perouse to explore this coast in 1786. It is separated from Hunter Island by the Nalau Strait. The lat- ter island extends for about 12 miles. and in that distance there are only known to be two openings, the lat- ter of which is Kiltik Creek.
5
8800
Hunter i.
rke
Bu
Queen Sound
D'Ageler
FITZHUGH SOUND
HECATE STRAIT
Mecale Id - Marsala.
Calvert 1.
safety C Core
Penrose
Blakeney Passage Barrieris. Browning Passage
Smith Sound
Sea Otter Group
0
Danger Shoal
Walker C.
Hopel.
Galiano 1
New Chan
Group
Map No. 6-Port Alexander to Point Walker, through South
. .. .
anal
niet
's
Estevan /
Tide Rip Is
ARISTAZABLE I. E
Laredo Chl
ROYAL 1.
Sarah
Finlayson Ch
RODERICK I.
Portlock Channel
Laredo Sound
Price
owas
-
OSlady
Don
Penla
SE
Salmon l.
Milbank Sound
: Dulfering
Cunningham
Wright
Group
KING I
a.m
Denny I.
Fisher
Goose N
HUNTER 1.
Buthe
Map No. 7-Point Walker to Swanson Bay, through Lama Passage, Seaforth Channel, Milbank Sound and Finlayson Channel.
PRINCESS
5
1.
Swindle 1
Schoner
r
HECATE STRAIT
Dean
407
POINTS OF INTEREST.
covered with water and surrounded by deep water. About two miles from Kiwash Island are Point Edmund and a number of islets, then we pass Burke Canal, an arm of Fitzhugh Sound and reach
See Map No. 7.
Point Walker, which is on a small island above which there are many rocks known as the Fog Rocks, one of which is very high and has a cluster of trees on it. We then proceed northward to Start Point, and here the passage turns and we have Canoe Bight and Camp Island. Another point from Denny Island is
Grave Point, where there are a number of Indian graves, and about one mile from here are the Bella Bella Islands, which were the summer residence of the Indians by that name. Farther on we have the
Kliktso-at-li Harbor, an excellent shelter for all vessels. We then pass
Harbor, Cypress and the Meadow Islands, and between these islands is Wheelock Pass, and above them is Gunboat Passage which connects Seaforth Channel with Fisher Chan- nel. It is narrow, crooked and much obstructed. We then proceed through Seaforth Channel which separates Campbell and the Wright group of Islands from Denny, Cunningham, Sunday and Salmon Islands and a part of the mainland, not entirely sur- rounded by water, called Don Pe- minstla. It is about a mile wide and extending from it toward the north are Deer Passage, Return and Spiller Channels. These channels have never been explored, but the Hecate Chan- nel which extends from it towards the south, separating Campbell Island from Hergest Island, one of the Wright group is navigable. The Her- gest Island was named for Lient. Her- gest, commander of Vancouver's sup- ply ship Dædulus, who was murdered in the Sandwich Islandsin 1792. Angle Point is the western extremity of Sunday Island. Nearly a mile from this point are the Jumble and Dearth Islands, and near these are the Hynd- man Reefs, which are a number of sunken rocks. We then proceed to
See Map No. 7.
Then about a mile and a half above this is The Trap, and although it ap- pears navigable, it is dangerous to en- ter. Just below here about half way between the Fog Rocks and the en- trance to Lama Passage the tides from the north and south meet. Then we have
Pointer Islet, showing the entrance to Lamna Passage ; here the Fitzhugh Channel changes its name to the Fisher Channel which, farther on, divides into several arms.
The Lama Passage separates Hun- ter Island from the Denny Island and connects Fitzhugh Sound and Seaforth Channel. Then it turns and extends northward and right at the bend Plumper Channel, which separates Hunter Island from Camp- bell Island, enters this passage. Having passed Cooper Inlet, Harbor- master and Westminster, Charles and Jane Creek on the south, we then have
Ship Point, the southeastern end of Campbell Island, next passing Bella Bella Village, the winter resi- dence of the Indians for some dis- tance around. The Indian name is Wan-ko-has. Here there are twenty houses, a mission residence and church. It was the former settlement of the Bella Bella Indians, which tribe now only numbers about fifty. Farther ou is
Mclaughlin Bay, where the IIudson Bay Company at one time had a post. A short distance from this bay on Campbell Island is Mt. Hand, which is 4164 feet high. Then we enter
Main Passage, which connects Lama Passage and Sea Forth Channel. Far- ther on is
Ormindale Harbor, which forins a triangle and is sheltered by the Nevay and Thorburne Islands. The safest passage is around the southwestern side of Grassy Island, which is the landmark in the middle of the Sea- forth Channel. Directly west of this harbor is Kynumpt Harbor, which
Point Rankin, which separates Sea- forth Channel from the entrance to Mathieson Channel, the latter of extends for half a mile into Camp
408
ALASKA.
which separates Lady and Dowager Islands from the part of the mainland called Don Peninsula. This channel extends for about 13 miles.
Three miles up this channel from Point Rankin, which is on Mary Island, is the entrance to Port Blak- eney, which separates that island from Don Peninsula. Having passed Ivory Island, White Rocks and Bolder Head we come to
Moss Passage, which connects Alex- andra Passage and Mathieson Chan- nel. It is about four miles long. From the southeastern part of it Morris Bay extends into Lady Island. About two miles from Point Rankin is Point Cross which is the northeastern ex- tremity of Lady Island and extends into Mathieson Channel. We then continue past
Low Point to Finlayson Channel, which extends between Dowager and Roderick Islands on the east and the Princess Royal Islands on the west. The shores are densely wooded, and in some ravines along the way snow is said to be seen in August. As we pass along we see the Stripe or Quartz Mountain, named by the U. S. Survey in 1869. It is on Dowager Island, and northward from this peak is Oscar Passage which connects Mathieson Channel and Finlayson Channel and separates Dowager Island from Ro- derick Island. Above Low Point is Open Bay in which there are many rocks and islets.
Roderick Island is said to consist of several islands separated from the mainland by Portlock Channel. This channel was named for Captain Na- thaniel Portlock, who visited the Pa- cific Coast on a trading voyage in 1787, and published inaps and an account of his voyage. The southern extremity of Roderick is called Parker Point, near which are two islets called the Sisters. Nowish Cove, which is sheltered by the Indian Island extends into Susan Island, one of the Roderick Group. The western point is called Fell Point. We then pass unexplored entrances to bays, inlets, etc., until we come to Mary Cove. Then we pass on to
Watson Bay and Wallace Bight. Extending into the northwestern corner of Roderick Island are Goat Cove and Kid Bay, the north- ern point of this cove is called Fawn
bell Island and gets quite narrow at its head. On the west is Whitestone Rock, a large bare rock, and where the land rises to about 200 feet is called Shelf Point. On the opposite side is Defeat Point, at whose south- ern extremity a small rocky islet is connected by a reef, and a short dis- tance from it is Berry Point, an astro- nomical station.
George Point is the northeastern extremity of Hergest Island, two miles from here is the entrance to Dundivan Inlet, in which there are a number of islets. It separates into several arms. We then pass Idol and Sound Point.
Milbank Sound which was named by Duncan in 1788, separates the Wright Group from the mainland; it is over eight miles wide. On the east extending from the Wright Group is Cape Swaine of Vancouver. From the north Day Point extends from the Price Islands. Next we have
Schooner Passage separating Price from Swindle Island ; on the latter is Point Jorkins extending into the en- trance of Finlayson Channel. About seven miles from the point is Cone Is- land, which derives its name from Bell Peak, a conical peak about 1280 feet high which is on this island. Cone Island is separated from Swindle Island by the Klemtoo Passage, which extends for about three and a half miles parallel with Cone Island, the southern extremity of which is Bare Point; and a short distance from this is Islet Point. Between this latter point and Base Point, which extends from Swindle Island, are a number of islets, one of which is Fish Island, and above this, Needle Rock and Stockade Islet form a chain to Star Island which is separated from a number of rocks by Observation Islet. Farther on is
Clothes Bay. And about a inile from Base Point is Berry Point, which is at the entrance of Trout Bay, and still farther on is Legge Point and Wedge Point, both extending from Cone Island. A half mile from the latter is Jane island. It is separated from Cone Island by South Passage, and from Sarah Island by the North Passage. The latter island is sepa- rated from the Princess Royal Island by Tolmie Channel, which runs par- allel with the former island and re-
409
POINTS OF INTEREST.
Point. Here Sheep Passage separates ! unites with the former channel. We the island from the mainland and then pass
joius Portlock Channel at the en- trance of Mussel Inlet.
One mile from Fawn Point is Carter Bay, which was named by Vancouver for one of his crew who died from eating poisonous mussels and was buried there, June 15th, 1793. On the northwestern shore of this bay was situated the astronomical station of the English observers.
We then proceed for about 20 miles, this passage being called by English authority Graham Reach. Then Hiehish Narrows connects the Reach with Finlayson Channel, and are about five and a half miles long. A little farther on is Green Inlet, and and then we come to a small cove called
Swanson Bay. Six miles from here is South Inlet or Khutze and sepa- rated from it by a peninsula is North or Aaltanhash Inlet ; both are unexplored butt appear extensive and as though good anchorage could be had. Right in the middle
See Map No. 8.
of the passage, which is here very much broader, is Warke Island. From here the passage for about ten miles is called Fraser Reach, at the end of which is Fisherman Cove or Ribachi Creek. Here the Reach divides into several arms, one called the Ursula Channel extends for about eight miles to the north and then takes an irregular course. The other one, which is Mckay Reach, extends seveu miles westward to Wright Sound and here Point Cumming ex- tending front Gribbell Island is seen. We then pass through Wright Sound, an irregular sheet of water that sepa- rates into several arms, the Verney Passage and Douglas Channel ex- tending toward the north, the others southward. Then we pass
Promise Island, whose extreme southern point is called Cape Fare- well. This island is separated from the mainland by Coghlan Anchorage, and extending into this passage from Promise Island is Thom Point, and on the opposite side extending from the mainland is Camp Point, and a short distance from Thom Point is Observation Point. Next comes
Harbor Rock, on both sides of which
See Map No. 8.
Carroll Island and the Cascade River Red Cliff Point, which extends from Princess Royal Islaud. A short distance above this point there is a lake, on the shores of which there is a salmon fishery and an In- dian summer village, into which a bay extends called Klekane. Quite a a distance up is
Point Kingcome, at which point Fraser Reach becomes inuch broader, owing to a lake and an unexplored bay running into it.
On the opposite side of Princess Royal Island from Point Kingcome is Nelly Poiut, and a short distance from the latter, extending about half a mile into Princess Royal Island is Holmes Bay. It is part of Whale Channel, which is one of the arins of Wright Sound ; two other arms also extend southward and they are Lewis and Cridge Passages. The latter of which separates Fin Island from Far- rant Island and the former with Wright Sound, Whale and Squally Channels and Lewis Passage sifr- round Gil Island, which was named by Caamano in 1792. It is 15 miles long and six miles wide, and on the northern end of it is Mt. Gil,
410
ALASKA.
there is a clear passage. Just beyond the anchorage the passage makes a short turn and is called Stewart Nar- rows. Then we approach
Lowe Inlet on whose eastern shore is Bare Hill, which is 400 feet highi. This inlet extends between twopoints, Hepburn Point and James Point, both extending from the mainland. Near the entrance of this inlet is Whiting Bank, on which anchorage may be had.
David Point extending from the mainland into this inlet is just below Nettle Basin where the inlet forms a round harbor, and here waterfalls from the lakes enter it. Don Point also enters it from the east. Eight miles from Tom Islet, which is just south of James Point, is Evening Point, and here the tides meet, and there are a number of rocks and islets in the channel, which is very deep between these two last-named points. Na- bannah Bay extends into the main land from Evening Point, but chain of islets and rocks prevent an entrance. Sonth from this bay is a magnificient waterfall on Pitt Island.
Nearly half a mile from Evening Point is Morning Point, in front of which there is a large area of foul ground covered with kelp ; the Morn- ing Reefs, several large rocks, also lie about here. Bare Islet, which is really a part of Leading Island, in Klewnug- git Inlet, is the landmark in keeping away from this foul ground. Another landmark a half mile from Morning Point is Camp Point, which extends into Klewnuggit Inlet. This inlet divides into several arms, some of which have never been explored. Exposed arın which extends south- east is obstructed by rocks and islets.
The channel then extends for 21 miles to Gibsons Islands, between which we only pass three inlets at regular intervals. The first of these is East Inlet, which appears to afford anchorage. There is a small islet in the entrance towards the west. The other two are Large Inlet and West Inlet.
which is 3000 feet high. Its extreme northern point is Turtle Point. Northiward from this point is Yolk Point, which extends from the east- ern side of Farrant Island and from here on for a distance of 45 miles, without turning, is Grenville Chan- nel, which separates Pitt Island from the mainland.
Farrant Island is unusually low and is separated from Pitt Island by the Union Passage.
The extremely high mountains close to the shore on both sides of Grenville Channel, give it the appear- ance of being very narrow. We then proceed, passing numerous cascades and streams, which are fed by lakes on the mountains and the snow which lasts nearly all the year and can be seen as we continue our journey. Some distance up, appearing to di- vide Pitt Island in two, is
Baker Inlet, which is quite exten- sive and may join Petrel Channel. We next come to
Stuart or Stewart Anchorage, south- east of which is a small, rocky extent, called Bonwick Point, near which is Stag Rock. Just behind this point is Shrimp Cove.
Five miles west of Stuart Anchor- age is Hill Point, which is wooded and separates the entrance of Gren- ville and Ogden Channels. At this point Grenville Channel widens, in the middle of which are the Gibson Islands, a group of low, wooded is- lands which we pass south of, avoid- ing Watson Rock, and then we have a clear passage to Arthur Passage.
Ogden Channel, which separates Porcher and Pitt Island, extends southward to Hecate Strait ; the open- ing where it joins is Browning Eu- trance, but in 1791, Ingraham called it Syax Harbor. On the eastern side of Porcher Island is a small, low, wooded point called Peninsula Point, it is composed of metamorphic rocks, sandstones and shales. Just above this point is the Oona River. Con- tinuing, we enter
Arthur Passage, which separates Kennedy Island from a number of small islands, and, between these and Porcher Island is Kelp and Chismore Passages. The latter of which is only accessible through Bloxam Pas- sage, which leads into it from Arthur Passage at its northwestern entrance.
Stephens
Chatham Sound\
Malacca
Passage
Kennedy !
PORCHER I.
Goschen 1. Canoe Passage ..
LOFTY 1. 1. OF
Browning Entrance
MCCAULEY I.
PITT
---
Klewnuggit
"+ Inlet
ISLAND
Lowe Inlet
Douglas Channel
LYNGSIHMVH
143 0 PM
Gardner Canal
GRIBBELL
14:
1.
!Ferrant I
right
STRAIT
Nepean Sound OtterChi
Squally Ch!
GILI.
Oner Passage ..
PRINCESS ROYAL I.
Estevan Sound
ESTEVAN I.
CAMPANIA 1.
Jurarsan
Map No. S-Swanson Bay to Chatham Sound, through Fraser Reach, Mckay Reach, Wright Sound, Grenville Channel and Malacca Passage.
HECATE
BANKS ISLAND
Principe Channel
Anger 1
annel
Grenville Channel
Schooner
Passage Spices
SMITH
745
CLARENCE STRAIT
Felice St
DUKEL
UNVIS
rdova
Bay
BEAN
.....
Wales
Semaville 5
Men Passage
DIXON ENTRANCE
DUNDAS 1
Werk Channel
CHIM-SY-AN PENLA
und
Ewye Passage O
stephens
with
SKIna
Turnedy 1.
GRAHAM
ISLEAND
Map No. 9-Dixon Entrance. Through Chatham Sound, Oriflamme Passage and Revillagigedo Channel.
HECATE STRAIT
Virage Sou
PORCHER I
PEARSE I
DALL I
PORTLAND
.
411
POINTS OF INTEREST.
See Map No. 9.
We then continue to the east of the Gibson Islands passing Marrack, Bedford and Kennedy Islands. Here again the channel separates, and one of the arms, Telegraph Passage, ex- tends northward and joins the en- trance to Skeena Inlet.
At the beginning ot this passage and between the Gibson, Marrack and Bedford Islands and the main- land is Port Fleming.
The passage then for some distance is hardly navigable, but an entrance could be had to Skeena Inlet by passing through North Skeena Passage, which is north of Smith and De Horsey Islands.
In the Arthur Passage northwest of Kennedy Island is the White Cliff Island, on which marble has been quarried. Here the Malacca Passage starts and extends west for about six miles. We continue our journey passing Genu Islets, Bay and Smith Islands and enter Chatham Sound which extends from Porcher Island for 35 miles, and is between seven and eight miles wide. It separates Chim-sy-an Peninsula from the Dundas Island. As we continue through this sound we pass the Kill- nahan and Digby Islands and other islets. Farther on we have
Tugwell Island, which is connected with Chim-sy-an Peninsula by a sand- bar. The northern point of this island is Point Dawes and the northwestern, Point Chopman. Directly east of this island we make a stop at Metla- katla Bay where there is the well- known village and Episcopal mis- sion of the same name.
The part of the bay near the mis- sion is called Venn Creek, the latter connects with the Oldfield Basin, east of Digby Island.
Duncan Bay lies north of Tugwell Island and offers a better anchorage than Metlakatla Bay.
Having passed Devastation and Pike Island, the Shrub, Knight and Carr Islets we continue past the Hodgson Reefs to Tree Bluff on which there is some cultivated ground. Just beyond this is Big Bay which is difficult to enter. A point of Chim-sy-an Peninsula extending into Big Bay is called Point Tren- ham. Farther on is
Burnt Cliff, One Tree and Finlayson
See Map No. 9.
Just south of this is Chalmers A11- chorage, which is off a bighit at the end of Elliot Island, near which are the Bamfield Islets and Elizabeth Island. Then leaving Arthur Pas- sage for Chatham Sound we pass through
Malacca Passage, which separates Smith Island from Elizabeth and Porcher Island. Extending from the northern point of the latter island is Point Hunt, off of which is Grace Islet. We then continue past the Lawyer Islet through
Chatham Sound, which here divides into several arms, one of which is the Fyde Passage. This passage extends between Porcher and Stephens Is- lands to Hecate Strait. Another is Brown Passage, which separates the latter island from the Dundas Group and lastly, is the broad opening of the sound where the waters join those of the Dixon Entrance.
In the southern part of the sound we pass the Rachel and Lucy Islands and the Alexandra Patch. Farther on are the
Dundas Island and a number of islets, one of which is the Moffat Island.
Deans Point extends from the south Dundas Island and Whitty Point from the north Dundas Island. Then we continue north of the Gnarled Islands, and if a voyage is made through Behm Canal, we here enter Revil- lagigedo Channel, passing the East Devil and Barren Rocks. Farther on is
Duke Island on whose eastern extremity is Duke Point, and north- ern extremity Grave Point; next we come to the
Cat and Mary Islands Point Win- slow is the northern extremity of the latter island.
412
ALASKA.
Islands, Sparrowhawk and Connis Rocks and Harbor Reefs. Sparrow- hawk Rock was named for a British gunboat which struck upon it. Here we eliter Main Passage to the east of which is Point Maskelyne the northern extremity of Chim-sy-an Peninsula and Point Wales the southeastern extremity of Wales Island. Between these two points is Portland Inlet. Above this inlet is
See Map No. 10.
Naas Bay into which empties a river of the same name. It is a great salmon1 stream. On the shore of this river are the Naas villages. Here the Hnd- son Bay Company's trading-post is situated. At these villages, called Kit-lak-a-laks, an enormous quantity of fish are taken in the spring. The Ulikon or candle-fish is the most im- portant species, and the fishery is in operation in March and April. These fish contain more fatty matter in pro- portion to their size than any known fish, and they appear in incredible numbers. To the west of this bay is Point Ramsden, which separates the inlet into two parts, the eastern arm being Observatory Inlet and the one on the west being Portland Canal, which forms the southeastern bound- ary between the British and Ameri- can possessions. The canal extends northward, having mountain ranges on both sides.
See Map No. 9.
The part west of Connis Rocks is called Oriflamme Passage, it is quite wide and deep. On through this passage we pass sontli of the Lord Islands, Tongass Pass and Fort Ton- gass. This fort is now in ruins, but it was the most southern fort of the United States in Alaska at the time of the purchase and for some time afterwards.
The steamer nsually makes a land- ing at this point. It is at the en- trance of Nakat Inlet.
Tougass Pass comes in front Main Passage between Wales Island and a number of smaller islands to the left. A vessel could go on through Revillagigedo Channel and Behm Canal, which formis almost a com-
See Map No. 11.
But, as we are not going that way, will not stop to give any details, far- ther than that we pass Hassler Island and go almost in a complete circle around Revillagigedo Island in Behin Canal, and then enter Clarence Strait.
Behm Canal which was namned by Vancouver, is one of the largest and most strange fiords on the coast ; from it extend quite a number of bays, one of which is Burroughs Bay, which is usually entered when going around the canal ; there are also a number of islands within its waters.
See Map No. 9.
We cross the Dixon Entrance, and as it is best for our purpose. we continue up Clarence Strait, which is the most important strait, except Chatham Strait, in the Alexander Archipelago. It extends for about 107 miles from Dixon Entrance to Sumner Strait. Its waters are deep and free from obstructions, except in the northern part where there are quite a number of islands. It sepa- rates the Prince of Wales Archi- pelago from the mainland and the Gravina, Etolin and Zarembo Islands.
Passing north of West Devil and Brundige Rocks, above which Ken- drick, Imgraham, and Chichagoff Bays extend into the eastern side of an island, of which there is a cluster right here. Between two of these islets is Moira Sound, an arm of Clarence Strait. Farther on is
See Map No. 11.
Wedge Island, a low island which is said to resemble a wedge ; we then continue to
SALMON R.
BEAR A
Halleck Range
BAY
VinginoH
PO!
LA
NAL
Hastings Arın
Observatory Inter
Mylor Pen'la
WYASCHA
GULF
NAAS BAY
Alice Arm
NAAS
PEARSE I.
Map No. 10-Portland Canal and Observatory Inlet.
1
à
0
CANAL
Smeaton
CANAL
WH38
Boca
BE
BELL 1.
LA
DO CHANNEL
G
ALPY
SPACIOUS
BEHM CANAL
PNichols. 5 Pass
OD
G
STRAIT
0
CLARENCE
Kasa- an Pay
PRINCE OF WALES ARCHIPELAGO
Tliakach Bay
DALL I.
Map No. II-Behm Canal and Clarence Strait.
ERNEST SOUND
BAY
Felice Strait
DUKE I,
N
REVI
BURROUGHS BAY
REVILLAGIGEDO ISL.
rm
413
POINTS OF INTEREST.
plete circle around Revillagigedo Island. Going this way we would pass Boat Harbor Point, Foggy Point and Bay, De Long Island, Kalı- Shakes Cove and the Snail and White Reefs, besides a number of other islands, points and bays extending from this canal. But our journey continues through Clarence Strait, passing to the south of Barren and many sunken rocks, and to the west of Duke Island which is separated from the Annette Island, one of the Gravina Group, by the Felice Strait, which connects Revillagigedo Chan- nel and Clarence Strait. Felice Strait is one of the numerous arms of the Clarence Strait. We then pass a nun- ber of islands from one of which extends Point Percy, and just above it extending from the Annette Island is Point Davison. The Annette Island is the one on which the Metlakatla In - dians and civilized Episcopal Alas- kans changed their home from British soil at Metlakatla to Americań Terri- tory. Then we pass a number of rocks and islets to Dall Head, which was named after Captain C. C. Dall of the P. M. S. S. Co's service. It is a high bluff 011 Gravinia Island.
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