USA > California > San Francisco County > San Francisco > The beginnings of San Francisco : from the expedition of Anza, 1774, to the city charter of April 15, 1850 : with biographical and other notes, Vol. I > Part 1
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M. I
GENEALOGY COLLECTION
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 01114 9991
ח
THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
FRANCIS
The
Beginnings of San Francisco
.
Expédition of Anka, 1774
City Charter of April 15, 1859
With D ASHA IO VOIZIV GHT • ЗІЗНАЯТ ЯТЈАVI Yd AvIsта
B
THE VISION OF ANZA Drawn by WALTER FRANCIS.
The Beginnings of San Francisco
from the
Expedition of Anza, 1774
to the
City Charter of April 15, 1850
With Biographical and Other Notes
V.1 €
-
-
By
ZOETH SKINNER ELDREDGE
SAN FRANCISCO ZOETH S. ELDREDGE
1912
COPYRIGHT, 1912 BY ZOETH S. ELDREDGE SAN FRANCISCO
PRINTED BY JOHN C. RANKIN COMPANY 54 & 56 DEY STREET NEW YORK
1434022
VOLUME I.
CONTAINS
Contents Introduction Chapters I. to XII. Notes I to 32
CONTENTS
21
Introduction
Chapter I. THE DISCOVERY OF THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO 1769
The Portolá Expedition-Sergeant Ortega-The Deer Hunters- Ortega's Progress Interrupted-The Bay from Telegraph Hill ..... 31
Chapter II.
EXPLORATION OF THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO
1770-1775
A New Province of Spain-Expedition of Fages-Llano de Los Robles-Rio de San Francisco-Expedition of Rivera-Camp of the First Expedition-The Palo Alto-Cañada de San Andrés- Cross on Point Lobos-Sea Expedition of Don Bruno de Heceta- Lieutenant Ayala-The San Carlos Enters San Francisco Bay-Isla de Los Angeles-Isla de Alcatraces-Bahia Redonda-Puerto Dulce-Laguna de la Merced 39
Chapter III. EL CAMINO DEL DIABLO
1774
Juan Bautista de Anza-His First Expedition-Across the Papa- guería-Sonoyta-Camino del Diablo-Las Tinajas Altas-The Colorado River-Palma, Chief of the Yumas-Anza Reaches the End of the Known Trail. 55
Chapter IV. THE PASSAGE OF THE COLORADO DESERT
1774
Crossing the Rio Colorado-The Yuma Indians-March Down the Colorado River-Laguna de Santa Olalla-Anza Essays the Desert Without Guides-Lost in the Sand-hills-Narrow Escape of the Expedition-Retreat to the River-Soldiers on Foot- Palma Welcomes their Return-The Passage Accomplished. . . .
69
9
IO THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
CHAPTER V.
EL CAMINO REAL
1774 Over the San Jacinto Mountains-The Royal Pass of San Carlos- Down the San Jacinto River-Arrival at San Gabriel-Up the Coast-San Luis Obispo-Mission of San Antonio-Down the Salinas -Arrival at Monterey-Joy at the Presidio and Mission-Starts on His Return-Meets Father Junípero-Fertility of California-Rejoic- ing of the Yumas-Passage of the Colorado-Up the Rio Gila- Peace Among the Tribes-Reaches Tucson-Arrival at Tubac ..... 85
CHAPTER VI.
THE FOUNDATION OF SAN FRANCISCO
1775-1776
Anza Promoted-Authorized to Raise Company for San Francisco- A Great Expedition-Pedro Font Named for Chaplain-The Start from Horcasitas-Cañon of San Ignacio-The Start from Tubac- Reach the Gila-Sickness-Across the Desert of the Gila Bend- Down the Gila-Welcomed by Captain Palma-Palma Desires Missions on the Colorado-The Chief Decorated-Passage of the Rio Colorado-Sufferings in the Desert-Passage of the Cordillera- Heavy Loss of Cattle-Pass of San Carlos-Distress at Snow-Pas- sage of the Rio de Santa Ana-Arrival at San Gabriel-Revolt at San Diego-Rivera Asks for Loan of Troops-To San Diego-The March to Monterey Resumed-San Buenaventura-Mescaltitan- La Laguna (Santa Barbara)-San Luis Obispo-The Salinas Valley- San Antonio-Arrival at Monterey-Father Junípero-Sudden Ill- ness of Anza-Departs for Peninsula of San Francisco-San Benito- Rio del Pájaro-Las Llages-Santa Clara Valley-San Francisquito- Camp at Mountain Lake-Lobos Creek-Font's Description of the Bay-Anza Selects Site for Fort and Presidio-Arroyo de los Dolores, Site for Mission-Rio de Guadalupe-San Pablo Bay-Carquinez Strait-Suisun Bay-San Joaquin River-Anza Sees the Sierra Nevada-Puerto Dulce-Return to Monterey-A Sad Day at the Presidio-Anza Starts on His Return to Tubac-Meets Rivera- Discourtesy of Rivera-Perilous Crossing of the Rio Colorado-A Long Swim-Across the Papaguería-San Miguel Horcasitas- Anza's Character-Moraga Takes the Expedition to San Francisco- Founding of the Presidio and Mission
99
II
CONTENTS
CHAPTER VII. COLONIZATION
1769-1836
The Mission Scheme of Colonization-Description of the Missions- Their Great Wealth-Secularization Their Destiny-The Presidial Soldiers-Settlers Enlisted-Founding of Los Angeles-Villa de Branciforte-San José de Guadalupe-Land Grants to Settlers- Artisans Imported-Convict Settlers-Costansó's Report-Military Establishment-Mission Lands-Decree of Scularization-Governor Figueroa's Reglamento 155
CHAPTER VIII.
SECULARIZATION
Denunciation of the Secularization-De Mofras-Wilkes-Bryant- Robinson-Government Control-Spain Announces the End for which Missions were Established, and their Fulfilment-Seculariza- tion No Wrong to the Church-Looting Begun-Híjar-Padres Scheme-Figueroa Interferes-Missionaries Slaughter Cattle-Lands and Property Distributed to Indians-Death of Figueroa-Adminis- tration of Alvarado-Secularization a Benefit to California-The Era of Missions closed. 171
CHAPTER IX.
THE GOLDEN AGE
The California of the Spaniards-A Chain of Missions-Private Ranchos in 1830-Families of Soldiers-The Good Eatables of California-The Remarkable Virtues of El Polin-Origin of the Mission Grape-Founders of California Families-The Handsome Hijo del Pais-The Courage of the Caballero-Beautiful Women- Attempt to Establish Schools-Sola and Echeandea Interest Them- selves in Education of the People-No Trade in California in Eight- eenth Century-American Ships Visit California-Trade in Fur Animals-Free Licences to Take Otter and Seals-Lima Traders- Trade in Hides and Tallow-Boston Ships-Floating Shops- Smuggling-Richard H. Dana, Jr .- Honest Trade Cannot Compete with the Smugglers-First Land Grant-Reglamento of 1773-Colo- nists Encouraged-Land Grants to Foreigners-Foreigners Required to Become Mexican Citizens-Limit to Size of Grants-Method Followed in Obtaining Grants-American Immigrants-Comments
12 THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
of Bartlett, Simpson, and Others-Daughters of Bandini, Argüello, De la Guerra, Carrillo, Vallejo, etc .- Marriage of Americans with California's Daughters-Don Tomas Yorba-Costume of a Cali- fornia Don-Women's Dress-Race Improvement in California- Courtesy Universal-A Californian's Word-A Guaranty from Agustin Machado-No Jail in San Francisco-California Hospitality.185
CHAPTER X.
EDUCATION, TRADE, LAND GRANTS
The Soldier Schoolmasters-Limited Facilities for Learning-Borica's Schools-Land Commission-Its Operation-Californians Lose Their Lands. .. .207
CHAPTER XI.
SPANISH ADMINISTRATION
1769-1846
A Military Government-The Presidio-The Small Military Estab- lishment-The Russians in California-Captain Bouchard-A Terri- tory of the Republic-Revolt of Neophytes-Vallejo-Alvarado- Isaac Graham-Expulsion of Gutierrez-Alvarado Made Governor- California a Department-Forts Abandoned-Vallejo Asks to be Relieved of Command-Arrivals of Armed Bands of Foreigners- Micheltorena and His Cholos-Commodore Jones Takes Monterey- Jones Apologizes-Micheltorena Driven Out. ... 223
CHAPTER XII.
THE FOREIGNERS (LOS EXTRANJEROS)
1795-1846
The Boston Nation-O'Cain Refused Permission to Settle-John Gilroy-Thomas Doak-Number of Foreigners in 1820-Richardson -Livermore-First Trappers from United States-Jedediah Smith- The Pattie Party-First Organized Overland Expedition-Search for the Humboldt River-A Desperate Journey-John Bidwell- Large Emigration from United States-Mexico Orders that no Foreigners be Permitted to Enter California-John A. Sutter- Sutter's Fort-Alvarado Arrests Foreigners-Americans Take Part in Political Revolution-Action of Bear Flag Party-Frémont and His Acts-Mormon Pilgrimage-Sloat Ends Bear Flag War- Kearny in Command .243
I3
CONTENTS
CHAPTER XIII.
THE COMING OF THE ARGONAUTS
1849-1850
Early Gold Discoveries-Discovery by Marshall on American Fork- Mason's Report-Rush to the Mines-Desertions of Soldiers and Sailors-Excitement in San Francisco-Military Force in California- Difficulties of Civil Administration-General Smith Arrives-Pacific Mail-First Steamer-Sufferings of Immigrants-The Overland Route-Suffering in the Desert-Starvation, Cholera, Scurvy-The Lassen Route-The Carson Route-Twenty Thousand Immigrants in the Desert-Army Relief-Immigration of 1850-More Suffer- ing-Havoc Among Immigrants-Fifteen Thousand Starving-Im- migrants Reach Sacramento Valley-Aid by Miners-Land Troubles -Plan of Rob Roy-Halleck's Report-Mission Property Seized by Immigrants-Mason Interferes-Foreigners Driven from Mines- Lawlessness-General Riley Calls for Delegates to Constitutional Convention-Prominent Men of the Convention-Constitution Formed-Election of State Government-Riley Resigns to New Government the Administration of Civil Affairs-Recklessness of the Miners-Mingling of Classes-Advantages of Association ..... 443
CHAPTER XIV.
EL PARAJE DE YERBA BUENA
1792-1839
The Anchorage of Yerba Buena Cove-George Vancouver-First Structure at Yerba Buena-Vancouver Entertained-Kotzebue- Morrell-Beechey-Dana-Richardson's Tent-The Vallejo Line- Establishment of Ayuntamiento-Town Laid out by Richardson- Leese Builds First House-Store on Beach-Nathan Spear-Kent .495 Hall-Hinckley
CHAPTER XV.
THE VILLAGE OF YERBA BUENA
1839-1846
Survey by Vioget-First Map of the Village-O'Farrell's Survey- Richardson's Temescal-Fuller - Thompson - Davis - Hinckley's Bridge at Lagoon on Montgomery Street-Ridley-Brown-Ports-
14
THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
mouth House-Leese Sells to Hudson's Bay Company-Visit of Simpson-Death of Rae-Hudson's Bay Company Sells to Mellus and Howard-Juana Briones-Sherreback-Leidesdorff-City Hotel -First Steamer on Bay-Custom House-The Bad Taste of Ellis' Whisky-W. D. M. Howard-First Brick Building-Noe-Guerrero -George Hyde Succeeds Bryant-Arrival of Stevenson's Regiment- Personnel of Officers-First Bank in San Francisco-The Russ Family-Election of Town Council-Ratification of Peace . .
- .5II
CHAPTER XVI.
THE CONQUEST
1846-1847
The Portsmouth at San Francisco-Montgomery Raises the Flag- Militia Company Formed -- Fort Montgomery-Arrival of the Brook- lin-A Night Alarm-Bartlett Appointed Alcade-Visit of Stockton -Capture of Alcalde Bartlett by the Enemy-The Battle of Santa Clara-Bryant Succeeds Bartlett-George Hyde-Arrival of Steven- son's Regiment-Personnel-Translation of Geographical Names .. . 539
CHAPTER XVII.
SAN FRANCISCO
1847-1850
Relief of Donner Party-Fourth of July-Population-Sale of Lots- Peter Smith Sales-Limantour Claim-Santillan Grant-Beach and Water Lots-Landing Place-First Wharf-Central Wharf-Other Wharves-Building on Piles-Tehama House-Steinberger's Beef Speculation-Vessels in Harbor-Over importation of Goods-Im- prisoned Vessels-The Niantic-Abandoned Ships-Talbot H. Green -Ward and Smith-The "New York Store"-The First Post- master-Parker-DeWitt and Harrison-Hotels of San Francisco- St. Francis-Ward House-Tehama-Union-Oriental-First News- paper-Schools-Churches-Doctor Fourgeaud-Forty Thousand Immigrants in San Francisco-Happy Valley-Pleasant Valley- Spring Valley-Saint Ann's Valley-Early Construction-Fire-Fire Department Organized-Improvement in Buildings-The Plague of Rats-Dreadful Streets-People Drowned in Mud of Montgomery Street-Town Full of Thieves and Gamblers-The Hounds-Hall McAllister-Legislative Assembly-General Riley Pronounces the Body an Unlawful Organization-Orders Election of Ayuntamiento-
15
CONTENTS
Prefect Horace Hawes-John W. Geary-Prison Brig Euphemia- Scarcity of Coin-Gold Dust as Circulating Medium-Profits of Merchants-Prices of Commodities-Forced Sales of Cargoes-Fall in Prices-Rents-Real Estate Prices-Potrero Laid Out-A Preach- er's Dilemma-General Smith Reports Against San Francisco- Removes Depot to Benicia-General Prosperity of City-Improve- ment in Dress and Manners-The Gamblers-Washerwomen's Lagoon-Honest Harry Meiggs-Excursion to Old Spanish Fort- Road to Mission-Dignity of Labor-Drinking and Gambling- Interest in Better Things-Growth of Civic Pride and Establishment of Social Order-The Charter of 1850. . 563
NOTES
I. San Carlos Borromeo 269
2. Punta de los Reyes. 272
3. José Francisco Ortega 274
4. San Buenaventura 276
5. Don Pedro Fages . 277
6. The San Carlos, alias El Toison de Oro 279
7. Arizona. 283
8. Francisco Eusebio Kino. 284
9. Las Tinajas Altas 286
Io. Captain Feo 288
II. The Royal Pass of San Carlos
289
12. Soldiers of the Expedition 291
307
14. Destruction of the Missions of the Colorado.
309
15. The Colorado Desert
315
16. Rio de Santa Ana 318
17. Santa Barbara 320
18. Mescaltitan
321
19. Junípero Serra 322
20. The Climate of San Francisco 324
21. Los Dolores . 327
22. San José Guadalupe. 33I
23. Don Fernando Javier de Rivera y Moncada 334
24. The Colorado River 336
25. Lieutenant Charles Wilkes 339
26. Bucaréli . 343
27. Concepcion Argüello. 344
28. Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo 346
29. Pio Pico 358
30. John A. Sutter . 365
32. The Revolt of the Californians and the Affair at San Pedro 428
33. The Donner Party 627
34. The Overland Route . 661
35. The Military Governors of California 668
36. Jacob Primer Leese. 700
37. Stockton and the Conquest of California. 702
38. Selim E. Woodworth. 707
39. Sam Brannan 709
40. The Claim of Captain Phelps 712
16
31. John C. Frémont .
374
13. Bac-Tubac-Tucson
APPENDIXES
A. The Presidio of San Francisco 717
B. The Streets of San Francisco 732
C. Bucaréli to Rivera. 749
D. The Murder of Bcrreyesa and the De Haros 753
E. Bibliography 758
INDEX
. 760
17
٢
INTRODUCTION
"Bells of the Past, whose long forgotten music Still fills the wide expanse, Tingeing the sober twilight of the Present With the color of romance."
T HE years following the discovery of America witnessed scenes of marvellous adventure and the new continent became a region of wonder and mystery. No tale was too extrav- agant for belief and by every ship from the New World the store of marvels was increased. The lure of gold and the glories of conquest drew adventurers from all quarters of the kingdom of Spain. The needy gen- tleman relied on his sword to carve out for him a for- tune, if not a principality, and his humble follower saw opportunity open before him and the possibility of his being made a gentleman. Ponce de Leon gave his life to the search for gold and for the foun- tain of youth. The exploits of Cortés filled Spain with amazement. Pánfilo de Narvaez perished miserably in an endeavor to conquer Florida, and the waters of the Mississippi closed over the ambi- tions and hopes of De Soto.
The bull of Pope Alexander VI. divided the New World between Spain and Portugal, giving to Spain all west of a line drawn, by agreement between the two powers, from north to south three hundred and seventy leagues west of the Cape Verde islands- about longitude 43° 15' west from Greenwich. The English claimed the right to trade with all the Span-
21
22
THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
ish possessions by virtue of a treaty of trade and amity made in the reign of Charles V., but Spain disputed this interpretation of the treaty and main- tained that there was "no peace beyond the line"; i. e. the line of Pope Alexander, a maxim which the English freebooters turned against the Spaniards and preyed upon and plundered their ships and their possessions in the West Indies.
For more than two hundred years California re- mained unexplored. It did not hold out the promise of glory and riches such as fired the imagination of the adventurers of the sixteenth century and it was not until the latter part of the eighteenth century that the king of Spain, warned by the openly expressed hostility of the English cabinet towards the Bourbons as well as by the steady advance of the Russians on the Northwestern coast of America, realized that military necessity demanded the occupation of long neglected California and the establishment of an out- post to show to the world that Spain would protect her domain from invasion and insult. Though in her decadence Spain still commanded the services of warriors and statesmen.
This work is not a history of California, but in accounting for the existence of San Francisco it has been found necessary to give some brief statements concerning the settlement of the country, the charac- ter of its people, and the occurrences which pre- ceded and led to the rise of the modern city. The romance with which California history abounds adds
1
23
INTRODUCTION
much to its attractiveness, but however pleasing tales of wonders and of marvelous adventure may be to those Californians whose state pride is gratified by having an interesting and romantic past added to the glories of climate, scenery, and other attrac- tions, such tales should not be permitted to usurp the place or exclude matter of historical importance. The romance of California history has been some- what overdone by writers who, in their pursuit of striking and romantic incident, have failed to under- stand and appreciate the true significance of events, and have, in consequence, spread before the people a vast amount of misinformation and have raised to the rank of heroes men of very ordinary attain- ments, or those whose service to the state was of doubtful honor, while overlooking men whose charac- ter and achievement entitle them to the highest place in the respect and esteem of the people. It will be my duty and pleasure to remedy this mis- conception of history so far as lies in my power. This work is the result of a study of original docu- ments and the statements of contemporary writers and of actors in the events described; and it is none the less interesting because true.
The passing of the great Spanish families closes a period of California history. The Spanish era is a memory of the past. Travelers tell us of a people of Arcadian simplicity, of grace and dignity, who re- ceived the stranger with courtesy and entertained him with a hospitality that knew no bounds. Of
1
24
THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
these people, who came into an untamed country and conquered it for civilization, the California of to-day knows but little. Few are the citizens of San Francisco who have even heard the name of Juan Bautista de Anza, its founder. Yet he was a gallant soldier and he executed with courage, energy, and fidelity the difficult task entrusted to him by his king, of bringing across deserts and over high sierras the settlers for a city whose destiny neither king nor captain could imagine. In making my countrymen acquainted with this accomplished sol- dier and gentleman I feel that I am doing them a service.
After the American occupation San Francisco grew rapidly, and with the immigration following the gold discovery it suddenly became a large city, with all a city's needs and perplexities. The thousands thus thrown together had no thought for charters or constitutions. They came only for gold, and then for a quick return home. The disorders to be looked for in such a community, formed of people gathered from all parts of the world, made necessary some form of organization for the protection of life and property. The Americans were largely in the majority and with their executive instinct for self- government, order was gradually evolved from chaos.
Had Anza been gifted with prophetic vision as he stood on the summit of the presidio hills, what a strange sight would meet his eyes! He would see spread before him, to the east and south, a great and
25
INTRODUCTION
beautiful city; under the shelter of the hills he would see a great military camp, and floating above it a strange flag,-the flag of a nation he knew not of: a nation which at the time of his journey was in the throes of parturition; beyond, he would see upon the waters of the bay the traffic of a great seaport, while upon the contra costa he would see other cities lining the shores for many miles. A mighty change has taken place since he looked upon the solitude of San Francisco bay. Plumed cavalier and bare- footed friar are alike gone. The power of Spain has departed and the youngest of the great nations of the earth possesses the land.
San Francisco, December 8, 1911.
ILLUSTRATIONS
I. The Vision of Anza Frontispiece
2. Ayala's Map of San Francisco Bay Facing page 50
3. The Cementerio. 58 «
4. Sand-hills of the Colorado Desert 76
5. Mud Volcanoes of the Colorado Desert. 80
6. Carrizo Creek, Colorado Desert. " 82
7. A Soldado de Cuera. y 100
8. Routes of Anza's Expeditions IO2
9. The Trail on the Gila.
106
10. The Route Across the Colorado Desert. II4
II. The Palo Alto. San Francisquito Creek ¥
130
12. Font's Map of Entrance to San Francisco Bay 132
13. Font's Map of Explorations, Monterey to San Francisco .. 140
14. Mission of San Francisco de Asis 150
15. California Indians
224
16. Port of Monterey, 1846.
228
17. Port of San Diego, 1840 230
18. Vallejo Reviewing His Troops at Sonoma ¥ 232
19. The San Carlos Entering the Bay of San Francisco, 1775 .
280
20. Las Tinajas Altas. One of the Upper Tanks 286
21. Las Tinajas Altas. The Lower Tank 286 y
22. Laguna de Manantial.
330
24. Yerba Buena Cove and Island. 496
25. Vancouver's Map of the Entrance to San Francisco Bay ..
S 498
26. Richardson's Plan of Yerba Buena, 1835
27. San Francisco in 1837 .
506
28. Jacob P. Leese 508 ¥
29. Rosalia Leese
508
30. Vioget's Survey of Yerba Buena, 1839. " 512
31. The Alcalde Map of San Francisco, 1847 514
32. San Francisco in 1846.
526
27
23. Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo . ¥ 346 ¥
504
28
THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
33. Custom House, San Francisco Facing page 530
34. The Limantour Diseño
35. The Limantour Claim
36. New York Store, Montgomery Street. 582
37. San Francisco in 1849 S
38. Prison Brig Euphemia and Ship Apollo
39. The Overland Route, Missouri River to South Pass
40. The Overland Route, South Pass to California. " 662
41. Brigadier-General Stephen W. Kearny. 670
42. San Pascual. The Charge of the Caballeros "
43. Colonel Richard B. Mason
44. Brigadier-General Bennet Riley u 692
45. Entrance to Bay of San Francisco in 1852. y
S 720
46. Presidio of San Francisco in 1820 ¥ 722
47. The Military Reservation in 1847
724
- ---------
F
568
" 570
"
596
606
662
S 678
688
CHAPTER I. THE DISCOVERY OF THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO 1769
I N the beginning of the year 1769, Don José de Galvez, visitador general of Spain and member of the council of the Indies, sent an expedition under command of Don Gaspar de Portolá to take possession of and fortify the ports of San Diego and Monterey in Alta California. The expedition consisted of two sea and two land divisions with the rendezvous at San Diego Bay. By the first of July, 1769, the divisions were assembled at San Diego and on the 14th, the march to Monterey began. On the last day of September, the command reached Monterey Bay, but failing to recognize it from the description furnished them, passed on and discovered the bay of San Francisco. The expedition then returned to San Diego, and in the spring of 1770, another attempt was made and Monterey was reached on May 24th. This time they recognized the bay and on June 3, 1770, the presidio and mis- sion of San Carlos Borromeo de Monterey' were founded with appropriate ceremonies.
In a previous work I stated that José Francisco Ortega, sergeant and pathfinder of the expedition, was the discoverer of the Golden Gate and of the Straits of Carquines .* As commander of the ex- pedition, Portola is entitled to the credit for what- ever the expedition accomplished, but it is nowhere claimed that Don Gaspar was the first white man to look upon the waters of the great bay. From the
* The March of Portola and the Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco.
31
32
THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
summit of the Montara mountains, Portolá sighted the high headland of Point Reyes and recognized what was then called the Port of San Francisco, afterwards known as the ensenada or gulf of the Farallones. He descended the mountain on the north and camped at its foot, in the San Pedro Valley, while he sent his scouts forward to explore the coast up to Point Reyes2, giving them three days for the reconnaissance. The scouts returned late at night of the third day and reported that they could not reach Point Reyes because some immense esteros (esteros inmensos) intervened which extended far into the land. The day following the departure of the scouts, some soldiers received permission to go into the mountains to hunt for deer. These return- ing after nightfall, reported that on the other side of the mountain there was a great estero or arm of the sea.
The question of actual discovery of the bay lies between the party of hunters and the scouts. Let us first consider the claims of the hunters. Costansó, engineer officer, cartographer, and diarist of the expedition, says in his diary, under date of November 2d, that the hunters set out in the morning after mass and did not return until after nightfall. They reported that from the mountains north of the camp they had seen an immense arm of the sea or estuary which thrust itself into the land as far as the eye could reach, inclining to the southeast (que se metia por la tierra adentro cuanto alcanzaba la vista tirando
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