USA > California > San Francisco County > San Francisco > The beginnings of San Francisco : from the expedition of Anza, 1774, to the city charter of April 15, 1850 : with biographical and other notes, Vol. I > Part 19
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THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
The first earth-roofed structures of palisades were erected a little more than a mile north of the center of the modern city, but the site was flooded by the river freshets and the pueblo was moved to higher ground. Thus the beginning of beautiful San José, the Garden City. It had a guard of two soldiers from the presidio of San Francisco, and owing to its location and mild climate it early became the favorite place of residence for the retired soldiers (invalidos) of San Francisco and Monterey. Following is a list of the nine original grantees :
I. Ignacio Archuleta born in San Miguel de Hor- casitas, 1754. His wife was Ignacia Gertrudis Pacheco, daughter of the soldier Juan Salvio Pacheco. He was the first alcalde of San José.
2. José Manuel Gonzales; came with Anza; see note 12.
3. José Tiburcio Vasquez; came with Anza; see note 12.
4. Manuel Domingo Amézquita; came with Anza, see note 12.
5. José Antonio Romero; born in Guadalajara in 1750; married María Petra, daughter of José Antonio Acebes.
6. Bernardo Rosales; born in Ville de Parras, Durango, in 1744; his wife was Monica, an Indian.
7. Francisco Avila; born in Villa del Fuente, Sonora, 1744. In 1790 he was living in San José, a widower, with one son. He was reported by the governor as a hard citizen.
8. Sebastian Alvitre, was a soldier of Portolá's expedi- tion. He was an incorrigible scamp and, like Avila spent most of his time in jail. About 1786 he was sent to Los Angeles because San José could no longer stand him, and Los Angeles passed him on.
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9. Claudio Alvires; born in Tetauch, Sonora, 1742; wife, Ana María Gonzales. He was also in constant trouble with the authorities and they were finally obliged to ship him out of the country. The condition (calidad) of these original grantees, as shown by the padron of 1790, is as follows: Españoles 3; Coyote, (Half-breed) I; Indio, 1; Mulato, 2; Mestizo, I; unknown, I.
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NOTE 23 DON FERNANDO JAVIER DE RIVERA Y MONCADA
The genesis of California contains no more notable figure than that of Don Fernando Javier de Rivera y Moncada. Quarrelsome, jealous, self-willed, and impa- tient of control or advice as he was, his abilities were recognized by the government which found constant employment for them, though his limitations were ascertained by one trial of independent command in California. He was captain in command of the presidio of Loreto in Baja California when Galvez organized the first expedition and was by him placed second in command to Portolá. He was given command of the first land division of that expedition and was thus the first explorer to enter California by land. On the march to Monterey Rivera commanded the rear guard. When Fages was recalled in September 1773, Rivera was appointed to succeed him and assumed command of the California establishments May 24, 1774. He had been captain of presidial troops for seventeen years; he had resented the preference shown Fages by Portola, both officers of the regular army, and in relieving Fages of his command at Monterey his manner was arrogant and his demands
The padres who found Fages difficult peremptory.
now found Rivera impossible. He was aggressive, overbearing, and hard to get along with. He would neither listen to advice nor permit any suggestions whatever regarding the affairs of the province, and he opposed the padres in everything. The viceroy, Bucaréli, requested Rivera to keep on terms with the priests, as
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friction between the military and religious organizations retarded the conversion of the natives. Bucaréli's sug- gestions were unheeded and on July 20, 1776, the viceroy ordered Felipe de Neve, governor of the Californias to take up his residence at Monterey. Rivera was ordered to Loreto and given the post of lieutenant-governor of Baja California. In 1781 Rivera was detailed to enlist recruits for the military service of California and settlers for the proposed pueblo on the Porciúncula (Los Angeles). This was his last service. He recruited his men in Sonora and in June 1781 arrived at the junction of the Gila and Colorado with forty-two soldados de cuera for the California presidios. These with their families he sent across the desert to San Gabriel under a guard of veteran soldiers, and with a personal escort of ten to twelve men remained in camp on the left bank of the Colorado opposite the mission of La Purisima Con- cepcion to await the return of the guard sent with the recruits. On July 17th the Yumas rose, and under the leadership of Palma destroyed the missions of La Purisi- ma Concepcion and San Pedro y San Pablo de Bicuñer, and then crossed the river and slew Rivera and all his men. Thus perished a brave and gallant officer, an indefatigable explorer, and one of the most famous of the founders of California.
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NOTE 24 THE COLORADO RIVER
In February 1540 Francisco Vasquez de Coronado started from Compostela at the head of an army of three hundred Spaniards and eight hundred Indians to conquer the Seven Cities of Cibola. To co-operate with the army and to carry the heavy baggage, a fleet of two vessels sailed from Acapulco May 9th under command of Her- nando de Alarcon whose instructions were to sail as close to the coast as possible and keep in communication with the army. For a time the course of the army and that of the ships was parallel, but from San Hieronimo de los Corazones (modern Ures) the route of the army was north, and from Cibola (Zuñi) it was east-northeast while the trend of the coast was northwest.
Alarcon sailed to the head of the gulf of California and discovered that California was not an island, as had been supposed, but a peninsula. He also came on August 26, 1540, at the head of the gulf, to a great river which at its mouth was two leagues wide. Alarcon gave the river the name Rio de Buena Guia-Good Guide river, and he ascended it, he says, eighty-five leagues.
After the departure of Coronado's army from Corazones Captain Melchior Diaz, who had been left by Coronado in command of the town, took twenty-five of the most efficient men and went to find the coast and the ships of Alarcon. Taking guides, Diaz traveled north and west and in a journey of about one hundred and fifty leagues, came, perhaps in October 1540, to a province of exceed- ingly tall and strong men living on a great river, which by reason of a practice these men had of carrying in cold weather a firebrand (tison) to warm themselves,
.
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the Spaniards called Rio del Tison *- River of the Fire- brand. Diaz probably traveled by Horcasitas and Caborca, thence across the desert of the Papaguería by the route afterwards taken by Kino in 1701 and by Anza in 1774, by way of the wells of San Eduardo Baipia; San Luis de Bacapa-Anza calls it Quitobac, the Papago name-to San Marcelo de Sonoitac; thence via the Camino del Diablo to the Colorado. Quitobac may be found on the map of Mexico and it is connected with the Gulf of California by a little railroad running to San Jorge's bay. The distance traveled by Diaz to the Colorado is about one hundred and thirty-eight leagues.
Diaz learned from these Indians (Yumas) that there had been ships at a point three days' journey down the river and proceeding thither found written on a tree: "Alarcon reached this place; there are letters at the foot of this tree." Digging up the letters Diaz learned that Alarcon had waited long for news of the army and that he had gone back with the ships to New Spain, because he was unable to proceed farther since this sea was a bay, which was formed by the Isle of the Marquis (Cor- tes), t which is called California; and it was explained that California was not an island but a point of the mainland forming the other side of that gulf.
Passing up the river five or six days' journey Diaz, with the help of his Indian allies, crossed it on rafts and continued his exploration. Here he met with a grievous accident and his men retreated carrying their dying captain and fighting with hostile Indians. Diaz lived twenty days and after his death his men returned to Sonora.
In 1605 Juan de Oñate reached the mouth of the Colorado, coming overland from Santa Fé, and named it
*See Anza's description of the Yumas, chapter iii.
¡Cortes was given the title of Marques del Valle de Oaxaca.
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THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
Rio Grande de Buena Esperanza (Good Hope). In his journey he crossed that branch of the river now known as Colorado Chiquito (Little Colorado) and named it Rio Colorado a name which was later extended to the principal river.
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NOTE 25 LIEUTENANT WILKES
Lieutenant Charles Wilkes, United States Navy, commanding a fleet of six vessels engaged on a scientific exploring expedition, reached San Francisco October 19, 1841. From the Columbia river he had sent the sloop-of-war Vincennes under command of Lieutenant Ringgold who, from August 20th, had been exploring the bay and San Joaquin and Sacramento rivers. An- other party under Lieutenant Emmons had been sent overland from Oregon and reached Sutter's fort October 19th. Wilkes' Narrative, that part of it relating to California, is a mass of misinformation concerning the climate, soil, and people. His criticism of the inhabitants appears to have been drawn from all the ill-natured accounts of disgruntled foreigners who had gone before, and he seems to accept for truth any statement dis- creditable to the people, however absurd. His statements are mostly hearsay, for his experience among the people was confined to a trip of two or three days to Santa Clara and San José and back to San Francisco. He says (vol. v, p. 153): "At Yerba Buena there was a similar absence of all authority. The only officer was the alcalde who dwells at the mission of Nostra Señora de los Dolores some three miles off. He was full of self-importance, making up for what he wanted in the eyes of others by a high estimate of his own dignity. I could find no one who could furnish me with his name, which must be my apology for not recording it in this place." This is ridiculous. The alcalde (juez de paz) was Don Francisco Guerrero, a man as well known as any in northern California; owner of Rancho Laguna de
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la Merced and a man of sufficiently high standing among Americans to be elected sub-prefect of the district, 1849-1850. Again Wilkes says: "The state of society here is exceedingly loose; envy, hatred, and malice predominate in almost every breast, and the people are wretched under their present rulers; female virtue, I regret to say, is also at a low ebb; and the coarse and lascivious dances which meet the plaudits of the lookers- on show the degraded tone of manners that exists" (p. 198). "They have a reputation for hospitality, but will take money if offered through a servant, and will swindle a guest should he wish to hire or buy anything." His own experience during the only time he was brought in personal contact with them should make his cheek burn with shame for writing such stuff. This very censorious gentleman made, as I have said, a trip to Santa Clara and San José, and records the hospitable and courteous treatment he received throughout. Going in his ship's launch to the Embarcadero de Santa Clara (now Alviso) he there took horse for the mission, six miles distant. It being late at night he stopped with his companions about midway at the rancho house of one of the Peraltas. The family were in bed and asleep, but after considerable hammering the officers succeeded in arousing Peralta, who is described as a large Californian over six feet in height with the countenance of a ruffian. Making known their wants they were courteously invited to enter while Peralta awakened his wife and daughters who proceeded to get up a hot supper of beef, tortillas, tea, etc., most appetizing and welcome to the weary travelers, while the ranchero looked after their horses. While the mother was serving the supper the daughters changed the beds, and on finishing their supper the guests were shown to their room where comfortable beds with fresh sheets awaited them. The mother and daughters
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had given up their beds and bestowed themselves else- where; but so quietly was this done the guests were un- aware of it until morning. A comfortable breakfast awaited their rising, after which they set out on their
journey. There were eight of them; and there was nothing
to pay. Arriving at the mission of Santa Clara they were hospitably received by the administrador and the priest, Father Mercado. Wilkes says that the adminis- trador, tired of his own name, had taken the name of his wife, Aliza, one of the most famous in early times. Señora Aliza entertained the visitors with a most delicious repast, prepared with her own hands; after which they went to the pueblo of San José. Here they were received by the alcalde (sub-prefect) whom Wilkes calls "Don Pedro"; says he was a Frenchman who had been twenty years in the country, and who, he says, had the appearance of a French pastry cook. This was Don Antonio Suñol who was a Spaniard-however much he may have looked, in the eyes of Commander Wilkes, like a French pastry cook. They were entertained by Suñol and returned to Santa Clara for more of "Señora Aliza's" deliciously- cooked food, and thence by horse to Yerba Buena. The administrator of Santa Clara who had "taken his wife's name," was Don Ignacio Alviso who came, a child of three years, with his father, Corporal Domingo Alviso, with the Anza expedition. His wife's name was Marga- rita Bernal.
The foregoing will give some idea regarding the accuracy of this accomplished officer's observation of a people who received him and his officers everywhere with courteous hospitality, who permitted him to enter their harbors, ascend their rivers and spy out the weakness of their hold upon the country, and the care with which he prepared his report to his government. I have given but few of his comments on the inhabitants; they are too
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THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
absurd. His miscalling of Spanish names is inexcusable in the work of an educated officer. The Carquines straits he calls Kaquines; the Cosumnes is Cosmenes; the Moquelumne is the Mogueles; Natividad is Nativetes; José de la Guerra y Noriega is Señor Noniga; San Joaquin is San Joachin, etc. He asserts that the land between San Francisco and San José is unfit for cultivation; a large part of the Sacramento valley is undoubtedly barren and unproductive, and must forever remain so; the country was involved in anarchy and confusion, without laws or security of person or property. With California is associated the idea of a fine climate. "This at least was the idea with which I entered its far-famed port; but I soon found from the reports of the officers that their experience altogether contradicted the received opinion." Only a small portion of the country offers any agricultural advantages. A Californian is content with coarse fare, provided he can get enough strong drink to minister to his thirst. "The palm for intem- perance was, I think, generally given to the padres."
The report of Wilkes was very much quoted by writers of the period, and of the accuracy of his observation and the justness of his comments the reader can judge.
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NOTE 26
BUCARÉLI
El Bailio Frey Don Antonio María Bucaréli y Ursúa lieutenant-general of the royal armies, was a nobleman of the highest rank, a soldier of distinction, and the forty- sixth viceroy of New Spain. His address of El Bailio Frey is that of a knight commander of Malta. Bucaréli was not only a great but a good man and the term of his rule was the happiest that New Spain had experienced. Peace and prosperity reigned and the country took long strides in advance. He took the oath of office September 3, 1771, and his untimely death April 9, 1779, spread sorrow throughout the land, for he had won the title of Virey amado por la pax de su gobierno-Viceroy beloved for the peace of his government.
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NOTE 27 CONCEPCION ARGÜELLO
Nicolai Petrovich Rezánof, chamberlain of the tsar, appointed ambassador extraordinary to the court of Japan and imperial inspector of the Russian American Company, arrived in Sitka in September 1805 where he found the Russian colony in a pitiful state of starvation, sickness, and misery. In the hope of obtaining provisions from the Spanish settlements of California he loaded a small ship with a cargo of goods likely to be pleasing to the Californians and sailed for San Francisco where he arrived on the 4th of April 1806. The comandante, Don José Argüello, was absent at Monterey and had left his son, Don Luis, then an ensign, in command. Rezánof was hospitably received and entertained by the comandante and during the long negotiations with the provincial government which followed was received as a friend by the Argüello family. Among the lovely daughters of the comandante, Doña Concepcion had the name of being the beauty of California. She was just over sixteen and in a country where girls married at thirteen might be considered as being at the height of her loveliness. The advent of the distinguished and handsome courtier into her little uneventful world natur- ally impressed the girl. Rezanof, though no longer youthful, and a widower, was of fine presence and had a very attractive face. He fell desperately in love with the pretty Doña Concepcion and his passion being reciprocated he demanded of Don José the hand of his daughter. Finding his child's happiness at stake, Don José gave a reluctant consent, providing, of course, that Rezánof obtained the consent of his imperial master. The consent of the friars was more difficult, but with the combined effort of all it was finally obtained with
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the understanding that the betrothal should be kept secret until the decision of the pope should be known, Rezánof being of the Greek church. With the signing of the betrothal contract Rezanof found himself, as a member of the family, in much better condition for obtaining the supplies he needed, and in May sailed for Sitka with a full cargo of grain and other provisions for his starving colonists.
In September Rezánof set out from Okhotsk in Siberia for an overland trip to St. Petersburg, to report to the tsar and obtain his consent to a marriage with the fair Californian. Weakened by the hardship of the past year he was unable to endure the long journey. He was seized with a violent fever and died at Krasnoyarsk, in central Siberia.
In far California Doña Concepcion waited for her lover's return. The years passed and no word came. Constant to his memory she refused to listen to words of love from other suitors, but devoted her life to works of charity. After the death of her parents she lived with the De la Guerra family in Santa Barbara. Here Sir George Simpson met her in 1843 and from him she learned, it is said, the fate of her lover. Simpson says of her: "Notwithstanding the ravages of an interval of time which had tripled her years, we could still discover in her face and figure, in her manner and conversation, the remains of those charms which had won for the youthful beauty Von Rezanof's enthusiastic love."* When the Dominicans founded their convent of St. Catherine at Benicia, Doña Concepcion entered that establishment, and there she died in 1858 at the age of sixty-seven. She enjoyed the respect and veneration of all who knew her and there were few families who could not remember some act of kindness at her hands.
*Simpson: Narrative, 377.
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THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
NOTE 28 VALLEJO
During the session of the first legislature of California, 1850, the tediousness of daily debate over appropriations, the dry-as-dust reports of highway commissions, and all the weary detail of law making, were relieved and illumined by a tale of romance which tinged with roseate hue the somber twilight of legislative halls. The in- novation came in the unwonted form of a report of a committee on the derivation and definition of the names of the counties of California, by its chairman, Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo.
Said the distinguished senator: (in part) "The follow- ing circumstance which happened during the first months of the foundation of San Luis Obispo is insignificant in itself, but the writer cannot help but dwell upon it for a moment with the most tender feelings of the heart.
"As a matter of course at that period, few families had as yet immigrated to this country and the female sex was an oasis in the desert. The writer's father was one of the many who emigrated here in bachelorship, and while sojourning in San Luis Obispo he unexpectedly met with a lady who was in travail, and about to bring a new being into the world; and as there was no one, save her husband, to assist her, he acted as tenedor (holder). The lady was safely delivered of a girl, where- upon the tenedor, then a young man, solicited of the parents the hand of their child and a formal agreement ensued between the parties, conditional, that if at a mature age, the girl would willingly consent to the union the ceremony would be duly performed. * Time rolled by and year after year transpired until the
MARIANO GUADALUPE VALLEJO
Born in Monterey, July 7, 1808; died in Sonoma, January 18, 1890. Comandante del Frontera del Norte; Comandante- general of California; Director of colonization; favored American domination; member of the Constitutional Conven- tion and of the California Senate.
346 TO BELIS THOSE OF SAY FAYECIECO
NOTE 28 VALLEJO
During the session of the first legislature of California, 1850, die Tediousmess of daily debate over appropriations, the dry-o-dult reports of highway commissions, and all the weary detail of law making, were relieved and Mmamed by wcale of romance which tinged with roseate lare she wmber twilight of legislative halls. The in- malin came in the uuwanted form of a report of a odroites og The derivation and definition of the names of the commiss of California, by Ire chairman, Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo.
Said the HOUGHAV ATUJĄGAUD OMAISAM ""The follow
berovst ;noitssinoloo 10 10129mia ;simotils3 . 10 1619098 in it for in im -9vno Isnojtutitano off to 19dmom ; noitsnimob nsonomA
Atsind simotilso As to bris h s the heart. "M a matter of course at that period. few families Jed of ye immigrated to the country and the female ter Was an oasis in the desert. The writer's father was one of the many who emigrated here in bachelor hip, and while sojourning ir San Luis Obispo he unexpectedly men With w lady who wat in travail, and about to bring a new being into the world; and as there was no one, save her Mmebend, to assist her, he acted as tenedor (older). The lady was safely delivered of a girl, where- woon the tenedor, then a young man, solicited of the Petruns the land of their child and a formal agreement enmed between the parties, corditional, that if at a maty are, the girl would willingly consent to the union do ceremony would be duly performed. * * * Time would by and year after year transpired until the
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NOTES
muchacha (girl) had reached her fourteenth year, when the marriage took place and the offspring of that union has now the honor to present his readers with this short biographical sketch."*
Ignacio Vicente Ferrer Vallejo was born in La Hacienda de los Santos de las Cañadas in the bishopric of Guadala- jara, Mexico, July 29, 1748. He was the son of Geronimo Vallejo and Antonia Gomez, his wife. He enlisted under Rivera in 1773 and came to California with Lieutenant Ortega in 1774, serving under that officer at San Diego. In 1789 he was made a corporal and in 1805 a sergeant; that being as high as he rose, though in 1806 he was named sargento distinguido. He was married in Santa Barbara February 18, 1791, to the young woman at whose birth he so fortunately assisted, María Antonia Isabel de Lugo, daughter of Francisco de Lugo and Juana Villanauel his wife. He died in Monterey in 1831. His children were:
i. María Isidora, born, 1791; married Mariano So- beranes.
ii. María Josefa, born 1793; married (1) José Francisco Alvarado and became the mother of Juan Bautista Alvarado, governor of California. After her husband's death she married José Raimundo Estrada.
iii. José Ignacio, born, 1795.
iv. José de Jesus, born, 1797; married Soledad Sanchez.
v. Juana María, born, 1799.
vi. María Magadelena, born, July 23, 1803.
vii. María Prudencia, born, May 20, 1805; married José Amesti.
viii. Mariano Guadalupe, born in Monterey July 7, 1808.
*Senate Journal. First Session, 1850. P. 526.
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THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
ix. María Encarnacion, born March 25, 1809; married Captain J. B. R. Cooper.
x. María Rosalia, born, 1811; married Jacob P. Leese.
xi. Salvador, born, 1813; married María de la Luz Carrillo.
xii. María de Jesus, born, 1815.
xiii. Juan Bautista, born, 1817.
Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo, born in Monterey July 7, 1808; died in Sonoma January 18, 1890; married in San Diego March 6, 1832, Francisca Benicia Carrillo, one of the most beautiful of the handsome daughters of Don Joaquin Carrillo and María Ignacia Lopez his wife.
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