USA > California > San Francisco County > San Francisco > The beginnings of San Francisco : from the expedition of Anza, 1774, to the city charter of April 15, 1850 : with biographical and other notes, Vol. I > Part 4
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Anza had induced some Cajuenches to go with him the first day's journey, and traveling seven leagues to the west-northwest, the Indians guided the party to an arroyo containing some thick and brackish water and a little carrizo (reed grass) which Anza named Los Pozos del Carrizal. The arroyo was the Álamo river and the place was one now known as Gardner's Lagoon. Two of the Cajuenches remained in the camp, the rest returning to Santa Olalla. Resuming his march the next morning, February 14th, Anza was accompanied a short league by the two Cajuenches who then left him, saying they dared go no further, but that the expedi- tion could safely reach the next watering place (aguage) near the sierra to the west. In the same
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LOST IN THE DESERT
arroyo, near some carrizo, Anza dug for water and finding a little halted to rest the animals. These wells he called Los Pozos de en Médio (the Half- way Wells). The next morning he began his march in a westerly direction towards the sierra. After traveling a league he came to a pool of very brackish water, thence another league through sand-hills brought him to another pot hole containing very little water, but somewhat better than the last. Here the exhausted condition of the mules compelled him to leave half his baggage, and placing it in charge of a guard he pushed on. He was soon in the midst of thickly clustered sand-hills where the trail became entirely obliterated. Finding himself in a dangerous situation, Anza consulted the two priests and sug- gested that since the animals were too weak to carry through all the baggage, they return half of it and half of the troops to the ranchería of the Yumas, and with the other half, without encumbrance, make a rapid journey to Northern California. Father Diaz agreed to the plan but Garcés objected. He did not see the necessity for it and did not think it wise to divide the force. Realizing the danger Anza related to him the fate of previous expeditions in like circumstances, but Garcés remained of the same opinion and Anza, having a high opinion of Garcés' experience and skill as a traveler, resumed the march. For some time they held to the westerly course among the sand-hills and then came to one larger and higher, which neither the horses in their
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THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
weakened condition nor the laden mules could sur- mount. Forced to abandon the route to the sierra in the west, which appeared to be about five leagues distant,* Anza turned to the south towards another sierra nearer than the first, close to which, Garcés said, was a large ranchería called San Jacome, where he had been two years before. Anza notified the leader of the pack-train, which was following, of the change of direction and with the advance guard pushed on for San Jacome. The sun had set when they reached the sierra and having passed it they found neither tracks, paths, nor other indications of habitation. Some of the soldiers were now on foot, their horses having given out, and Anza halted while the priests with two soldiers went in search of the stopping-place (paraje). Returning unsuc- cessful late in the night, Garcés begged for another chance, and Anza giving him the only soldiers whose horses could carry them sent him on his quest.
Garcés returned without having found San Jacome and Anza resolved to go back to the last aguage, realizing that if water and pasture were not found the next day the expedition would be exposed to total loss.
All through the night he waited for the pack-train, horse-herd, and cattle to come up, and at daybreak began his return. At sunrise he met the train and at two in the afternoon, worn out with hunger and thirst, and having lost a large number of animals, they reached the well where they had left the bag-
* Probably Signal mountain; about forty miles away.
SAND-HILLS OF THE COLORADO DESERT Photograph by United States Geological Survey. W. C. MENDENHALL.
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The Beginnings OF SAN FRANCISCO
unr the laden mules could sur- to Abandon the route to the sierra il umin appeared to be about five leagues to the south towards another friis be - than the first, close to which, Garcés 1\ Fol 4 large rancheria called San Jacome, where Los Lewo ywo years belufer Anza notified the Ar of the puckordin. bich was following, of surge of direction and with The advance guard omri The sun had set when They rel het the sites and having passed it they Wound neither inrks | ohn ww nthey indications of halexnon. Som
wet now on Tran, theli hrase
and Anza halted TAI CHIH-NA UY search of the viu2 Isigolos asste betinU d dasigotod unsuc- cessful late JIAnNaquaI/ .O . W tor another chance, amd wolters whose horace could
quest.
Garces retamel ubiose Bare found San Jacome and Ante meiowed by e livsk to the last aguage, realizing thar di weare and fury were not found the west day the etpedison mild beespeed to total loss. All though ilyes tight In w et foi the pack-train, vesterd, od moodle is gone ups and at daybreak HAD der& AttEn- to met the train and sombong 06-0 01 with hunger and of towybor fost a laim yumder of animals, the well where ibey had Telt the bag-
ud; about torry nulm pes
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RETREAT TO THE COLORADO
gage. In memory of their sufferings and in the fear that this miscarriage would defeat the object of the expedition, Anza named the paraje La Poza de las Angustias-the Well of the Afflictions. Sending the cattle on to the Pozos de en Médio that they might find some carrizo to eat, Anza rested until noon of the following day. He realized how hopeless was the attempt to cross the desert with his animals in such condition and he determined to return to the river, give his men and animals a rest, entrust his baggage and useless animals to the care of Palma, and with his escort mounted on the strongest horses and taking only the most necessary supplies, make a dash for Monterey. With this intent and without consultation with the padres, Anza began his retreat.
Leaving the Poza de las Angustias after midday of February 17th, Anza took the trail to the Pozos de en Médio, the pack-mules carrying half loads. Most of the soldiers were now on foot but to the co- mandante's words of encouragement they responded that if all the horses failed they would make the whole journey on foot, could the object of the expedi- tion be thus attained. Anza commended their faithfulness and promised to remember and reward them as far as was in his power for their concern for the king's service .*
* On October 1, 1786, Don Pedro Fages, governor of California, ordered that Juan Ignacio Valencia, a soldier of Anza's first expedition, be paid one escudo (about $2.00) per month additional pay from October 8, 1774, to June 10, 1788, for his services on that trip. (Spanish Archives of California, Provincial State Papers MSS. VIII, 142).
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THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
On the morning of the nineteenth Anza reached the Laguna de Santa Olalla and the half laden pack- train arrived at eleven o'clock on the night of the twentieth, but it was not until the twenty-third that he got in all his baggage. He was received by Palma as one returned from the dead. The Yuma chief made known his grief at the hardships of his friend and the loss of his caballerías .* Garcés volunteered to visit the rancherías of the lower Colorado in hopes of obtaining some information regarding the route across the desert, and to this the comandante agreed, charging him to return within four or five days. Anza then proceeded to explore the mind of Palma to ascertain if he were worthy of confidence, and satisfied on this point, he communicated to the chief his intention of leav- ing with him a portion of his baggage and animals, and some of his people, to await the return of the expedition from Monterey which, Anza said, would be in a little more than a month. To this Palma heartily agreed, promising to keep all in safety until Anza's return, and that the mules might suc- ceed in reaching the ranchería he offered to transport the baggage on the shoulders of his people. This, however, Anza would not permit. Having com- pleted the arrangement with Palma, Anza communi- cated it to the individuals of the expedition, and with one voice they approved of the plan. The soldiers
* Caballería, riding beast. Anza uses the expression to mean both riding and pack-animals.
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ANZA AGAIN ESSAYS THE DESERT
repeated the statement that they were eager to undertake the journey and again declared their willingness, should all the horses be lost, to march on foot so long as their strength lasted.
Several days passed in rest and recreation. The Yuma, Cajuenche, and Quiquima Indians thronged the camp and were much entertained by the music of a violin played by one of the soldiers. The women learned to dance in the Spanish fashion, and both sexes learned to salute the Spaniards with "Ave Maria"; "viva Dios y el Rey"; pronouncing the Spanish words with fluency.
On the first of March Garcés returned without having learned anything concerning the route they must take, and the next day the expedition again essayed the passage of the desert, leaving behind the greater part of the baggage, three soldiers, three muleteers, and one of Anza's servants, with the surplus cattle and caballerías. They now kept down the plain of the Colorado to avoid the sand-hills and shorten the journey across the desert to the sierra. For two days they continued down the river among the rancherías of the Cajuenches, and then, on March 4th, turned to the west-northwest towards the Cocopa mountains, guided by a Cajuenche Indian. After a journey of six or seven leagues the guide proposed that they camp for the night, assuring the commander that they would reach the aguage by noon the follow- ing day. To this proposition Anza assented with reluctance as there was in the place neither water
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THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
nor pasture. Starting at daybreak the next morning the march was continued in a direction varying be- tween north and west to avoid the sand-hills, and after a journey of twelve and a half leagues (thirty-two and a half miles) they reached some pot holes containing a scanty supply of water and a little pasture. To these wells Anza gave the name San Eusebio. On the day's journey they came upon what appeared to be an arm of the sea (brazo del mar) which Anza thought must come from the Gulf of California, thirty leagues distant. He tasted the water and found it salty and he found stranded there a large quantity of fish of the kind that belong to the sea. The little water of the wells of San Eusebio was soon exhausted and one half of the beasts had none. To add to their misfortunes they discovered that the rascally guide had run off during the night leaving them to the peril of the desert without knowledge of the location of water. Suffering from thirst Anza sent a corporal and five men to search for the aguage, and at two in the afternoon moved the train over the track of the explorers. After three leagues of travel they met two of the soldiers who guided them to some springs in the hills where there was water but very little grass for the beasts. Anza named the wells Santo Tomás and here they remained the night of March 6th. I cannot locate this spring but it is in the Cocopa mountains about ten miles below the boundary line. On the seventh Anza again sent out the scouts, following on their trail in the after-
MUD VOLCANOES, COLORADO DESERT Photograph by United States Geological Survey. W. C. MENDENHALL.
Tw REGUSDINGS DE SAN FRANCISCO
bof pastire. Staring at daybreak the next morning The douh = sominted in a direction verving be- Heyslo whand west to avoid the sand-bille, and after nordvestand a half leagues (thirty-two and V. H when they reached some pot holes containing a MAN puppy of Water and a little pasture. To Does well Anek give the name San Eusebio. On do Lar's journey they came upon what appeared che av arin of the sea (brazo del mar) which Anza mought must come Mot the Gulf of California, birty leagues distapx Ife tasted the water and found & salty and lie Tound stranded there a large quantity of fitil ed the Kind that belong to the sea. The bude wies a the wells of San Eusebio was GUMS had none. To add vibe [spigolost) astste basinUd desigotoddred that the علمي والصحة night leaving Diem to the | without knowledge of the location o rpg from thirst Anza sent a corporal amil hve mien tu search for the aguage, and at two in the afternoon moved the train over the Hack of the explorers. After three leagues of travel Hoy met tivo of the soldiers who guided them to one springs in the hills where there was water but any disde grom for Lhe Deson Mowa watned the
w.IL Santo Tomás and here they remained the night ou March OtB. I cannot locate the spring but it mithe Cocopa monmeine about ten miles below il boundary bue. On the seventh Anza agwin sent the cure, following on their trail in the after-
*
صحيو
-
கம்
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THEY REACH WATER
noon, and camped for the night where there was some pasturage for the animals but no water. They were, however, cheered by information the scouts obtained from some Indians of the certainty of reaching the long-looked for aguage early the next day. Starting at seven in the morning, a march of one and a quarter leagues brought them to the wells which on being opened distilled an abundant supply of most beauti- ful water. To these wells Anza gave the name of Pozos de Santa Rosa de las Lajas (the Wells of Santa Rosa of the Flat Rocks) .* Anza's native Californian and guide, Sebastian Tarabel, recognized in these wells one of the stopping places of his former journey, and they all rejoiced in the thought that now their expedition would not fail. This aguage, Anza says, was but eighteen leagues from Santa Olalla (it was twenty) and could have been made in two forced marches, though it had taken six days and thirty-five leagues of travel to reach it. At 2.30 in the afternoon Anza resumed his march and traveling almost due north made four leagues and camped for the night in the desert without water and with but little pasture for the animals. At daybreak the next morning they took their way again to the north across some dangerous sand-hills, with the men on foot leading their horses, and after traveling seven
* These wells are now known as the Yuha springs and are located in the northwest corner of section eight, township seventeen south, range eleven east, San Bernardino base and meridian, four miles north of the boundary line. The water is about two feet below the surface of a dry wash.
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THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
leagues, arrived at one in the afternoon at a large cienega or marsh-the sink of the San Felipe river- at the base of the San Jacinto mountains, the western wall of the desert. Anza gave to the aguage the name of San Sebastian del Peregrino. He had, in the face of great peril, without guides, and with much suffering, accomplished the passage of the Colorado desert.
.
CARRIZO CREEK, COLORADO DESERT Photograph by United States Geological Survey. W. C. MENDENHALL.
HIER IN SIX FRANCISCO
6 ile Afternoon ut a large w le of the San Felipe river- Txcinco mountains, the - Mivo gave to the aguage 16 del Peregrino. He had, mi, without guides, and with woshed the passage of the
ТЯНЕНА ОПАЯОЛОЭ ЯВАЯО ОДІЯЯАО ЈЈанизака М .Э .VI
1
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CHAPTER V. EL CAMINO REAL I774
A NZA found the water of the Cienega de San Sebastian* very alkaline and the grass so affected by it that the animals were made sick. At the cienega was a small rancheria of hill Indians (Indios Serranos), a most miserable, half- starved lot, ugly and entirely naked, living on mescal and seeds, with such game as they could kill with their bows and arrows. They also used the boomerang, throwing it with great dexterity and skill. These In- dians have been identified with the Comeya who form- erly occupied the country from the head of the Gulf of California to the Sierra Madre and from the Pacific to the lands of the Yumas. They were as fierce and treacherous as they were cowardly, and were the only Indians that Anza met on his long march whom he could not convert into friends. There was war between the Comeya and the Yuma, and two of the latter tribe whom Anza had brought with him notified the coman- dante that they and all who accompanied them would have their throats cut. Anza told the Comeya Indians that the war between them and the Yumas had ceased and that the tribes were now friends. This statement was apparently accepted and with the breaking of arrows the former enemies embraced
The Cienega de San Sebastian is on the San Felipe river near where the Carrizo creek joins it, in Section 2, township 12 south, range 9 east. It is a little below sea level and the water, while abundant, is brackish.
It must not be inferred that a "river" in Southern California is necessarily a stream of water visible to the naked eye. Frequently the flow is under- ground, except in times of freshet.
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THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
and assured the comandante that their future excursions into each other's territory would be but pleasure trips.
Remaining at the cienega until three o'clock the next afternoon, March II, 1774, Anza resumed his journey, and turning his back on the Colorado desert passed into the San Jacinto mountains by the broad dry cañada* of the San Felipe river. His animals were very weak from the purging caused by the alkaline grass and water of San Sebastian, and two of them died. He advanced only one and a half leagues, then halted for the night where there were some mesquite trees, whose leaves furnished scanty forage for the beasts. In this place were four or five families of Serranos who informed him that the sea was distant three days' journey to the west, and that some of their relatives near it had seen people like the Spaniards who lived at a dis- tance of five or six days' journey. The sea, Anza inferred, was the Philippine Ocean, and the people were those who lived at the Puerto de San Diego.
Before daybreak the next morning the march was resumed up the gently ascending cañada of the San Felipe, in a west-northwest direction, and turn- ing into the cañont of Coyote creek they camped where there was running water of good quality and better grass than they had seen since they had left
* Cañada: a dale or glen between mountains: a valley.
+ A cañon is a narrow valley with more or less precipitous sides, a defile or ravine.
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IN COYOTE CAÑON
the Pimería .* At this aguage they found some sixty Serranos who scattered at the approach of the Spaniards. Anza sent the native Californian after them to induce them to return. Tarabel succeeded in bringing them back, and Anza rewarded them with presents of trinkets and tobacco; but the pack-mules coming up and scenting the water, set up a terrific braying which put the Indians to precipitate flight. Anza named the aguage San Gregorio and remained in camp the next day to give his sick animals rest. The expedition resumed its march before dawn on March 13th, continuing up the cañon of Coyote creek and camping at the head of Borega valley. Here the Coyote, coming through a narrow cañon where its flow had been forced to the surface, again sinks to its underground channel. Anza notes the good grass and vines and trees which promised improvement further on. He named the aguage Santa Caterina.
Starting two hours before daybreak the next morn- ing, they continued up the cañon, which now began to narrow and rise sharply. For four leagues they followed the cañon of the Coyote, then turning into Horse cañon a sharp climb of two leagues brought them to a bajio and the summit of the San Jacinto mountains, where they found good grass and water.
* Pimería: the country of the Pima Indians. It extends, roughly speaking, from the Sonora river to the Gila east of the one hundred and twelfth meridian. Anza left the Pimería and passed into the Papaguería when he crossed the Altar river at the mission of Caborca, January 22d.
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THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
Anza says: "This paraje is a pass and I named it El Puerto Real de San Carlos (the Royal Pass of San Cárlos). From it may be discovered some very beautiful plains, green and flowery, and the sierra nevada with pines, oaks, and other trees proper to cold countries. In it the waters are divided, some running to the Gulf and others to the Philip- pine Ocean. Thus is it verified that the cordillera we are now in is connected with that of Baja Cali- fornia." This bajio is Vandeventer flat, at the base of Lookout mountain, and its altitude is about four thousand, seven hundred feet. I have been some- what particular in tracing Anza's route across the Sierra Madre of California, of which the San Jacinto mountains form a part, because Bancroft, in his History of California, identifies the pass of San Carlos with the San Gorgonio pass, the route followed by the Southern Pacific railroad, and all subsequent writers have accepted the statement and confirmed the error.11
The Indians met on this day's march were of the same appearance and language as those of San Sebas- tian, but were more impudent in manner and speech. Their harangues were accompanied by movement of hands and feet so violent that Anza called them Danzantes (Dancers). They were great thieves and Anza says they could steal with their feet as dex- terously as with their hands.
That night it rained and snowed, and it was not until the next afternoon that the expedition started,
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LA CAÑADA DEL PARAISO
taking its way over the divide between Vandeventer flat and Hemet valley, an elevation of four thousand nine hundred and eighty-five feet, and camped at a beautiful lake in Hemet valley which Anza named Laguna del Principe. In crossing the divide he says he found a fair vein of silver ore. The next three days he traveled down the Hemet valley, the San Jacinto river, camping on March 19th on the border of a large and beautiful lake, covered with white geese, which he named Laguna de San Antonio de Bucaréli. This was San Jacinto lake. He is enthusi- astic in his description of the beautiful river, the trees, and the flowers. The river he named San José, and the San Jacinto valley he called La Valle Ameno de San José (The pleasant valley of San José). Into this pleasant valley comes the north fork of the San Jacinto river, a bounding, precipitous stream of such crystalline beauty that they named the gorge down which it runs La Cañada del Paraiso-the Vale of Paradise.
The next day they reached the Santa Ana river, so named by Portolá, July 28, 1769, but finding the river full were unable to cross. Passing down the river for half a league they looked in vain for a ford, and at four o'clock halted to make a bridge. This they finished at nightfall and rested for the night. Crossing the Santa Ana the next morning on the little bridge, the expedition traveled seven leagues in a west-northwest direction along the base of the Sierra Madre and camped for the night in a fertile
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THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
valley thickly studded with poplars, willows, and alders, on the bank of a clear stream coming down from the sierra, which Anza named Arroyo de los Osos (Bear creek), having seen and chased several of those animals. The stream was San Antonio creek and the location of the camp was a little north and east of the site of the present town of Pomona. A march of eight leagues the next day brought them - at sunset, March 22d, to the mission of San Gabriel where they were received by the padres with demon- strations of joy, the ringing of bells, and the singing of the Te Deum.
Tears of joy filled the eyes of those exiles from home as they looked upon these intrepid men and realized how near Sonora really was to them. As they heard the story of the expedition, wonder filled their hearts at the marvelous journey made by such a handful of men. Anza found the mission on very short rations, the priests and soldiers of the guard being allowed but three corn cakes per day which they eked out by wild herbs, each one seeking for himself; and of this scanty ration of corn they had but one month's supply. Nevertheless, the father superior of the mission offered to supply Anza with food until an expedition could be sent to San Diego, where, the father superior had been informed, a ship, the Nueva Galicia, had arrived. Giving his men two days' rest, Anza dispatched four soldiers with seven mules to San Diego, forty leagues distant, with a request to the captain of the ship and to the comandante of the
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LOS ANGELES RIVER
port for provisions and for horses to enable him to continue his march to Monterey .* The soldiers returned April 5th, bringing six fanegast of maize, half damaged, one sack of dried meat, not edible, one sack of flour and two fanegas of beans which could not be taken because his troops did not carry pots in which to boil them. The horses asked for could not be supplied. As the provisions would last the expedition but sixteen days, Anza sent the two priests, with most of the soldiers, back to the Rio Colorado to await his return, and, with an escort of six soldiers, began the last lap of his journey, one hundred and twenty leagues, to Monterey.
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