USA > California > San Francisco County > San Francisco > The beginnings of San Francisco : from the expedition of Anza, 1774, to the city charter of April 15, 1850 : with biographical and other notes, Vol. I > Part 8
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* 4 leagues: 10.4 miles. It is 9.75 miles from the Berkeley shore to the Marin coast.
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THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
to be no current and there was no evidence of freshets in the shape of driftwood and rubbish thrown up on its banks. They both tasted the water and found it brackish but not so salty as the sea. They record their observation of the sun as giving the latitude 38° 5' 14". Resuming the march in the afternoon they saw the so-called river begin to widen out until it took on the appearance of a laguna rather than that of a river,* then turning somewhat to the south to avoid the marshes they camped for the night on the bank of an arroyo of wholesome water that had been named by Fages Arroyo de Santa Angela de Fulgino, now known as Walnut creek. The next morning they crossed the valley of Santa Angela de Fulgino in a northwest direction, entered Willow Pass and mounted a hill, from the top of which they could see how the river divided itself into three arms or branches, as described by Don Pedro Fages. Descending the hill they tried to approach the river, but were prevented by the marshes. Continuing to the east-northeast for two and a half leagues they came to the river and to a large ranchería of some four hundred Indians who received them with friendly demonstrations and gave them cooked slices of salmon, while Anza recipro- cated with the usual presents. Tasting the water of the river they found it quite fresh and were per- suaded that what Captain Fages had called the
* This was Suisun bay.
I39
THE RIO DE SAN FRANCISCO
Rio de San Francisco was not a river at all, but a great fresh water sea. They were now on the San Joaquin river.
Resuming his march to the east-northeast for about one league, Anza climbed a high hill to observe the country and from this vantage point he saw a confusion of water, tulares, forest, and level plain of an extension unmeasurable. To the east, beyond the plain, he saw a great sierra nevada, white from the summit down, which appeared to run from southeast to northwest, while northward to the horizon extended the plain, encroached upon by the sea of fresh water and tulares. With the doubt that the Rio de San Francisco was a river at all becoming more fixed in his mind, he descended to the water and camped for the night in a grove of oaks near an abandoned ranchería, which he called San Ricardo. This was at or near the site of the present town of Antioch. It was here that Fages in 1772 gave up the attempt to reach Point Reyes, and turned back to Monterey. Anza again tasted the water and found it crystalline, cool, fresh, and good. Seeing that the breeze caused some gentle waves to wash the beach or shore, he took a good sized pole and threw it as far out on the water as he could, but instead of being carried down the stream it was washed ashore by the little waves. He resolved to go further up the river or laguna and see if he could ascertain what it was. Noting the rise and fall of the tide he posted Lieutenant Moraga to watch throughout
140
THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
the night and measure its height. They found that the difference between high and low water was eight feet and eleven inches. All this convinced Font that the Rio de San Francisco was no river at all but a fresh water sea, and he named it Puerto Dulce- Fresh-water Port, a name which was frequently used by the Spaniards in speaking of Suisun bay. One who has been through the waste of waters of the San Joaquin delta can understand what it might have been one hundred and thirty years ago in the spring of the year. Anza still retained his doubt and from this day used the term, Rio ó Laguna de San Francisco, in alluding to it. Until two o'clock the following afternoon Anza struggled on foot and on horseback to overcome the obstacles which pre- vented him from reaching the plains on the north- east, but the farther he went the farther he was diverted from his true direction and the more his course was obstructed by water running into the river or laguna. He was now informed by two soldiers of his escort who belonged to the Monterey garrison that the water came from the tulares* that reached as far south as the mission of San Luis Obispo, that they were thirty leagues in breadth and were unfordable even in the dry season. Realiz- ing that what he attempted could only be accom-
* "The Tulares" is a large tract of marsh reaching from Kern lake in the Upper San Joaquin valley to Butte in the Sacramento-a distance of about three hundred and fifty miles-and filled with tules or bulrushes. It has been largely drained and contains some of the richest land in California.
FONT'S MAP OF EXPLORATIONS, MONTEREY TO SAN FRANCISCO Facsimile of drawing accompanying diary. By permission of GEORGE PARKER WINSHIP, Librarian.
AR DEL SUR
Prin modo wie no river at al Al shi convinced! Font o Moh amd lony water was eight They found that
od be named it Pherto Dulce
. name which was frequently
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led on foot and
УЗЯЭТЛОМ ЗИОНТАЯОДЯХА НО ЧАМ ГТИОТ Te which pre- ОДВІЮЛАЯЯ ИАЗ ОТ on the north- nisib gnivasqmos gniwsib to slimisthet he was
Water mandag into the He was now iformed by two rt pho ldlonged to the Monterey le wat Tomr for the tulares . far cours av in mission of San Luis For They were thing leagues in Breadth taslite eygx In the day season. Realiz- Two wwwopted could only be accom-
Sierra Nevada
TULARES.
Campo verde
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Punta de Reyes
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Liano de los Robles
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RIO Valle de S' Pasqual
5 fo
lad
Escala de quinze leguas Mexicanas
Punta de Pinos
Monter
Montera
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306 AM Carmelo
37
Punta de Año nuevo.
I.F. Petrus Font fecit. " Tubutama anno 1777
PLAN. O MAPA DEL VIAGE QUE HICIMOS DESDE MONTEREY AL PUERTO DE S.FRANCISCO,
I4I
IN THE MONTE DIABLO RANGE
plished by a detour of three or four hundred miles and that a survey could be better made from San Luis Obispo, Anza turned and rode straight to the southwest in the direction of Monterey, and traveling four and a half leagues camped for the night in the foot hills of the Monte del Diablo range. Being without a guide he had crossed the entrance to the Livermore pass, missed a very easy road through Livermore valley to the route of his upward journey and plunged into about as rough a mountain country as could be found in America. For the next two days he struggled with the difficulties of the mountain passage, frequently turning back to escape from impassable cañons and on April 6th emerged from the cordillera into the Santa Clara valley by the cañon of Coyote creek. The explorers' route from the camp in the Livermore hills was by the cañon of the Arroyo de Bueno Ayres to the summit of the mountains whence they looked down upon the great San Joaquin valley ; thence descending into the Arroyo Mocho they traveled some five miles, passing to the west of Cerro Colorado, which they noted, and camp- ing in San Antonio valley. The second day's route was over the divide to the cañon of the east fork of the Coyote creek down which they traveled, climbing into and out of the dangerous cañon, and camped at night near the site of Gilroy Hot Springs. It was a difficult journey. Anza says that the hardships of the march were very great. "If we traveled by the cañons we were impeded by the rocks, and when
142
THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
we attempted the heights we nearly fell over the precipices. The sierra, whose width and dangerous heights no one would have believed we could sur- mount, was named by those who came before 'La Sierra del Charco.'"'
. The rest of the journey was easy and rapid. They reached the presidio of Monterey at 10.30 in the morning of April 8th, and Anza went to the mission of the Cármelo to cure his leg, from which he was still suffering. On April 13th he sent five soldiers to the presidio of San Diego, where Rivera still lingered, to request the comandante of California to meet him at the mission of San Gabriel on the 25th or 26th of April, and come to some agreement regarding the duty with which they were both charged, viz: the establishment of the presidio and mission of San Francisco. Then with but slight improvement in his malady, Anza went to the presidio of Monterey to deliver to Lieutenant Moraga the command of the expedition.
At two o'clock in the afternoon of April 14th Anza began his return march to Mexico. With the commander was his chaplain, Fray Pedro Font, the purveyer of the expedition, Don Mariano Vidal, his escort of ten soldiers, and twelve vaqueros, arrieros, and servants-twenty-five in all. He was also accompanied by two priests of San Luis Obispo, visiting at Monterey, who availed themselves of this opportunity for returning. "This day," he writes, "has been the saddest that said presidio (of
I43
ANZA SAYS GOOD-BY TO HIS PEOPLE
Monterey) has experienced since it was founded. As I mounted my horse in its plaza, the greater part of the people I had brought from their country, and particularly the women, remembering the treatment, good or bad, they have experienced from me while under my command, came dissolved in tears, which they shed publicly, not so much because of their banishment as because of my departure, and with embraces and wishes for my happiness bade me farewell, giving me praises I do not deserve. I was deeply moved by their gratitude and affection, which I reciprocate, and I testify that from the beginning up to to-day I have not seen any sign of desertion in any of these whom I have brought from their country to remain in this distant place; and in praise of their fidelity I may be permitted to make this memorial of a people who in the course of time will come to be very useful to the monarchy in whose service they have voluntarily left parents and country, which is everything one can abandon."
Returning by the road he had come Anza met on the morning of the second day, the sergeant whom he had sent with dispatches to Rivera. Delivering to Anza two letters from Rivera the soldier requested the honor of a private interview in which he com- municated to Anza the fact that Rivera, who was following close behind, had been excommunicated at San Diego for having violated the sanctuary of the church in taking therefrom by force an Indian criminal; that in his opinion the comandante was
144
THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
mad; that he had treated him with indignity and had reduced him from the rank of sergeant; that the comandante had first refused to receive Anza's letters, and on the following day had demanded them and at the same time, without opening them had given him the letters for Anza and bade him begone. Anza opened Rivera's letters and found they contained a refusal to join him in the establish- ment of the presidio at San Francisco.
Directing the sergeant to continue his way to Monterey Anza resumed his march and a league further on met Rivera. Anza saluted the coman- dante courteously with an enquiry for his health, but without halting Rivera answered the enquiry and spurred his horse forward with a short "good- bye." Anza called to him, "Well! about the letter lately written you, you shall answer me in Mexico- or wherever you wish"; to which Rivera replied, "Very well." This so enraged Anza that he called on the priests with him to witness Rivera's discourtesy.23
At San Luis Obispo Anza was overtaken by a messenger from Junípero Serra who requested his good offices in the matter of the Indians concerned in the late rebellion at San Diego who had now offered their submission. The messenger also brought a letter from Rivera, apologizing for his discourtesy, and both priest and soldier asked Anza to await their arrival from Monterey. Anza waited, but the conference resulted in nothing. The two officers did not meet but conducted their negotiations by
145
RETURN MARCH ACROSS THE DESERT
letter. Rivera, from his camp a short distance from San Luis, requested a conference at San Gabriel. Anza, who had lost four days in waiting, pushed on for San Gabriel where he waited three days more for Rivera to appear, and then resumed his march, first sending to Rivera a plan of the port of San Francisco, with the places selected for the fort and mission. At the Santa Ana river he was again over- taken by a messenger from Rivera who wrote that he had been so busy over the papers in the affair at San Diego that he had had no time to write to his excellency, the viceroy. He begged Anza to make his excuses to the viceroy and at the same time enclosed him a letter to be delivered to the father guardian of the College of San Fernando. Anza, who was out of patience with Rivera's trifling and considered it disrespectful for him to write to the guardian and not to the viceroy, refused to receive the letter and sent it back. Crossing the San Jacinto mountains by the route he had come, he reached the Cienega de San Sebastian on the evening of May 7th. Wishing to cross the desert in one jornada if possible Anza made what he calls a tardeada-a late march- and starting at 12.45 p.m. of May 8th reached the Laguna de Santa Olalla at midnight of the 9th, having traveled twenty-five leagues with two rests of five and a half hours each. Joyfully received by the Indians of Santa Olalla, who brought the travelers an abundance of maize, beans, and other eatables, Anza rested his weary men and caballerías until
146
THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
three o'clock of the next afternoon and then resumed his march for the junction of the rivers, where he arrived at eleven on the morning of May 11th.
At the Puerto de la Concepcion Anza found Padre Esaire, one of the two priests that had accom- panied him from Horcasitas to the Colorado river; the other, Garcés, had gone up the river, whence he had crossed the Mojave desert into the interior of California and was, at that moment on the Kern river on his way back from San Gabriel. Anza dispatched a letter by an Indian messenger to the place where Garcés was supposed to be, saying that he would wait three days and then resume his jour- ney. He then began collecting logs for a raft, for the river was running full.
The next day came Palma, chief of the Yumas, to remind Anza of his agreement to take him to the City of Mexico. Anza represented to the chief that the City of Mexico was a great distance off, and that if Palma went there he would be a long time away from his people. Palma asked how many years he would be away and the comandante told him not more than one at most. Palma said it was well; that he had provided for the government of his nation during his absence, and he presented to Anza two underchiefs to whom he had committed the administration of affairs. Anza required him also to select three of his people to accompany him, that there might be witnesses to report to the Yumas
147
THE PASSAGE OF THE COLORADO
if anything should befall their chief, and then, after consultation with the priests, granted Palma's petition .*
They now prepared to cross the river, selecting a place where it was compressed to about one hundred varas in width. The current was very rapid but the banks were approachable. One raft was launched on the morning of the 13th, loaded with some of Anza's people and baggage, directed by twenty- three Yumas swimming, and made the journey in safety, but consumed five and a half hours on the trip. At four o'clock another raft was sent over and made the opposite shore, but far down the stream, and was so badly damaged that the Yumas did not attempt to return it that night.
At daybreak the next morning the river was much higher and the great force of the water made the passage of the train very difficult. The provisions and such of the freight as could be divided into small portions were sent over in coritas and cajetes grandes,t which the women, swimming, pushed before them like little boats. Owing to the swiftness of the current a woman would have to swim more than fifteen hundred varas-four-fifths of a mile- in going and coming, and they had to bring back
* Anza took with him to the City of Mexico Palma, his brother, a son of Pablo, and a Cajuenche Indian-four in all. They lived with him in a house in the Calle de la Merced and were handsomely entertained. They were baptized February 13, 1777; Don José Gomez, Cabo de Alabarderos, was sponsor.
t Corita-a large, shallow, water-tight basket. Cajete-a flat, earthen bowl.
1
148
THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
the empty vessels. Anza says that some of the women made twelve trips. All they asked for the service was a few glass beads, which Anza gave them in abundance. A raft was sent over at midday with some of the people of the expedition, and late in the afternoon two others were completed on which the rest of the command embarked. On the larger of the two were the comandante, the two priests, the purveyor, and some soldiers-thirteen persons in all. It was managed by forty Yumas in the water, but as it was leaving the bank it began to sink. Instantly more than two hundred Yumas-among them many women, plunged into the river and with much noise and shouting the raft was passed over to the other shore, traveling some eight hundred varas, its passengers safe, but a little wet.24 Anza says: "I have, before this, made the statement which I now most emphatically confirm, that the fact of our having the people of this river for friends, enables us to cross it with the fewest difficulties, and that were the contrary the case, it would be almost impossible to make the passage."*
On May 15th, having seen all his people and bag- gage safely over the river, Anza resumed his march, passing up the Gila some thirty-one and a half
* After the destruction of the missions of the Colorado in 1781, the overland route from Sonora was closed until sometime after the beginning of the nine- teenth century. It was reopened in 1823, but there was always trouble with the Yumas.
149
CHARACTER OF ANZA
miles to the Laguna Salada; then leaving the river he struck across the Papaguería, direct to the south- east and by forced marches reached Carrizal, the sink of the Sonoita, about noon of the 19th, having lost six caballerías on the passage. From here on to the mission of Caborca on the Rio del Altar he followed the route of his upward passage of 1774. Starting from Caborca on the 25th, he continued his route to the southeast. At Real de la Cieneguilla, a rich gold mining camp, he took under his protection a pack-train that was waiting for an escort, this portion of the country being infested with Apaches, and reached San Miguel de Horcasitas and the end of his journey, June 1, 1776.
Here ends the diary. Anza's mission was accom- plished. He had taken his people through in safety to Monterey, meeting with skill and courage the perils of the way-the cold, the deserts, the moun- tains, and the rivers-and he testifies that of all those entrusted to his care, not one had been lost except the woman who died in childbirth the first night out from Tubac. He had left them in a strange and far country and they had parted from him with tears, not because they had left home and friends, but because they should see his face no more.
Anza's character may be read in the pages of his diary. He was by nature simple and kindly, responsive to the call of duty and true to the "chival- rous traditions of heroic Spain." It is not easy to estimate the value of the services of this gallant
150
THE BEGINNINGS OF SAN FRANCISCO
soldier, and the monument erected in San Francisco to the Pioneers of California is incomplete without his name.
From San Diego Rivera wrote Moraga to build houses at Monterey for the people of the expedition as there would be a year's delay before the presidio could be founded at San Francisco; but on May 8th, the comandante, having changed his mind, ordered the lieutenant to proceed to San Francisco and estab- lish the fort on the site selected by Anza, also instruct- ing him to notify the priests that the founding of the two missions was for the present suspended. In conformity therefore with this order Lieutenant Moraga with Sergeant Grijalva and sixteen soldiers, two priests, seven colonists, besides servants, arrieros, and vaqueros, left Monterey, June 17th, and took the road followed by Anza to the peninsula of San Francisco. They traveled slowly, the men having their families with them, and on the 27th reached the site selected by Anza for the mission and camped on the bank of the Laguna de Manantial, which they called the Laguna de los Dolores, taking the name from the arroyo. The packet boat San Carlos was to sail from Monterey with the stores and the remainder of the expedition. While waiting the arrival of the vessel Moraga employed the men in cutting timber for the buildings of the presidio and mission. After waiting a month for the vessel Moraga moved the greater part of his command to the site selected for the presidio, leaving six soldiers
THE MISSION OF SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS AS IT APPEARED IN 1849 Photographed by TURRILL and MILLER from a daguerreotype.
SAN FRANCISCO
crocted in San Francisco m & mcomplete without
14 wrote Moraga to build TEx flie people of the expedition dela before the presidio I'm o Provesseo; but on May 8th, Kurvy dranged his mind, ordered viva han Umantisco and estab- 10 0cctel by Anna, also instruct- Friesis Ibar rue founding of r the moment suspended. hur tader Lieutenant
PASI II CIAALLA TI ZAS, arrieros,
s moil HEJJIMA bas IIIHAUT vd bodqsigotod and took
winsula of San
cho men having on the 27th reached Mil Ut Am bor the minion and camped Laguru de Manantial, which Dolores, taking the clam th Ar Thep wet boat San Carlos www the stores and the woda o de onsimon. While waiting the fue Mong corod The men in ut Haber for si bankdogs of the presidio and Aller web- & nih for the vessel Mure moveil do gra ez part of ho command to who are selected for the pravidlo, Jeavtop six soldiers
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البوب بر
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151
SAN FRANCISCO FOUNDED
to guard the camp on the Laguna de los Dolores. On August 18th the paquebot arrived, seventy-three days from Monterey, having been driven by adverse winds as far south as San Diego. The commander of the San Carlos, Lieutenant Fernando de Quiros, sent his sailors ashore and they, with the soldiers, began the construction of the buildings at the presidio and mission. At the former were built a chapel, a storehouse, and quarters for the troops, all of wood, and thatched with rushes. Before the arrival of the San Carlos, on the 10th day of August, 1776, was born the first white child in San Francisco to the wife of the soldier De Soto in the camp at the mission.
On the 17th of September, "The anniversary of the impression of the wounds of our father Saint Francis, patron of the presidio and fort," as Father Palou says, they took formal possession of the pre- sidio. Father Palou said mass, blessed the site, and after the elevation and adoration of the Holy Cross, concluded the religious services with the Te Deum. Then Moraga and his officers took formal possession in the name of the sovereign and with discharges of cannon by the San Carlos and the shore batteries, and volleys of musketry from the troops, the city of San Francisco was born .*
* The authorities for the narrative of Anza's two journeys are his diary of 1774, his diary of 1775-6, Pedro Font's diary of 1775-6, and Garcés diary of 1775-6. Of Anza's subsequent career little is known. After his return from California he was made governor of New Mexico where he served until April, 1788. He died December 19th of that year and his widow and heirs were paid a year's salary of a colonel of cavalry-twenty-four hundred dollars.
CHAPTER VII. COLONIZATION 1769-1836
B EFORE proceeding to the story of the formation of the modern city of San Francisco let us consider the method adopted for the reduc- tion and settlement of the newly occupied territory and the administration of its affairs, temporal and spiritual.
In the scheme to colonize California the missions were to play an important part. They were intended from the beginning to be temporary in their charac- ter, and it was contemplated that in ten years from their foundation they should cease. It was sup- posed that within that period of time the Indians would be sufficiently instructed in Christianity and the arts of civilized life to assume the position and character of citizens; that these mission settlements would become pueblos, and that the mission churches would become parish churches, organized like other establishments of an ecclesiastical character in other portions of the nation where no missions ever existed .* The missionary establishments were widely different from the ordinary ecclesiastical organizations. They had for their object something more than the spiritual care of those connected with them. They were intended not merely to christianize but to civilize the Indians; to instruct them in the arts, and to guide their labors; and the charge was committed to priests who were specially trained in such work. The scheme was not a new one; it had
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