USA > California > Los Angeles County > Ingersoll's century history, Santa Monica Bay cities prefaced with a brief history of the state of California, a condensed history of Los Angeles County, 1542-1908 > Part 33
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that it is the entering wedge of a transcontinental line-what line still remains a mystery. It is popularly supposed to be a link in the Gould system which is reaching toward the Pacific coast ; but as yet the plans of the railway magnates have not been divulged. But to whatever system it may belong, the completion of a line down the coast to Santa Monica would mean much for this city and section of country.
STATE FORESTRY STATION.
The location of an experimental station in Santa Monica Canyon by the State Board of Forestry was determined upon in July, 1887. Mr. Abbot Kinney, who was chairman of the first State Board of Forestry, offered for this purpose a tract of land on Santa Monica Heights. This was accepted and an appropriation of $5,000 was made to begin the work. Mr. H. Rowland Lee, of the State University, was selected to take charge as head forester of the Santa Monica station in connection with the Hesperian station in San Bernardino county and the San Jacinto station in Riverside county. Up to 1890 $3,000 was expended in buildings and a large number of trees and plants were set out. The work of this station was largely devoted to the study of the comparative value of trees for the interior and along the coast ; the economic use of trees. costs and profits ; possible ranges of soil and climate ; fitness for any purposes and conditions. An especial study of eucalypti was made. Small collections of trees and plants were distributed to a large number of persons who had filed on timber claims, or who wished to carry on experiments under the direction of the forestry station.
In 1889 Messrs. Jones and Baker donated twenty acres of land along the eastern edge of Rustic canyon to the station. This tract is thus described by Inspector of Stations :
" The greatest and deepest barranca in the Santa Monica plain is that known as Santa Monica canyon .- It is not really a canyon in the strict interpretation of the Spanish word, which refers to mountain ravines, but more nearly con- forms to the Spanish idea of a barranca-a wide cleft across the plains from the mountains to the sea. In realty there are two large barrancas, running in a direction somewhat parallel for several miles, although they are sometimes wide apart. The narrow tongue of land between them extends to within an eighth of a mile of the ocean. Here, on the sides and summit of this narrow central plateau, between two deep gorges and extending down to the bottom of one of them, the Santa Monica Forestry station is situated. It is greatly shel- tered from storms and yet the view is wonderfully extensive. The twenty acres belonging to the station, a little arboretum tract, extends from the bottom of the northern canyon, called Rustic canyon, up slopes and across levels to the very top of the mesa, on the same plane as the town of Santa Monica, and looks
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down from thence to the bottom of the south canyon. There are thus three distinct levels and two half-levels, with their connecting slopes for the most part not too abrupt for planting. Such is the charming topography of the station lands.
"Work on the station includes first of all, the care and cultivation of the existing plantations. Then observations of these have to be made from time to time and records kept of the rate of growth of cach tree, of its time of blos- soming and maturing of seed, behavior under different conditions, etc."
In 1889, J. M. Sheckles was in charge of the forestry station. In 1893. the State Board of Forestry ceased to exist and the work was placed under the direction of the Agricultural Department of the State University. Later, in 1897, the work was enlarged by connection with the Forestry Department of the United States Department of Agriculture, experimental stations in thirty or more states of the Union working in co-operation. This plan has been of great benefit to the Santa Monica station individually and to the general results of Forestry and Agricultural experimental work. The Department of Forestry has now become one of the most important branches of the governmental service. Out of a very small beginning has grown the great system of forest reserves and of re-forestration, together with the collection of invaluable data and practical aid to many industries.
In 1897, Mr. J. H. Barber, later foreman of the South Coast Range, was appointed to take charge of the Santa Monica station. This year the appropria- tion for 1897-8 was made $8,000 and much needed buildings and improvements were made. In 1899, Mr. C. A. Colmore was in charge. He was succeeded by William Shutt who remained in charge for four years. During his incumbency considerable additional water was developed and the station made a steady advance, although hampered by a lack of funds. In October, 1904, disastrous mountain fires swept through Santa Monica canyon and all the buildings of the Forestry station were destroyed. Only the windmill and tower were left stand- ing. Considerable damage was done to the growth, also, a large number of seedling stock being killed and shrubbery and trees more or less injured.
For some time it was a question whether the buildings would be replaced, but in the latter part of 1905 an appropriation became available and the neces- sary buildings were put up. Mr. J. P. Barber was appointed to take charge of the station. Since that time, the damage done by the fire has been largely overcome and the station continues to do valuable work in connection with the state and United States Agricultural Experimental schools.
REMINISCENCES.
An early comer, who is still a resident of Santa Monica, furnishes some very entertaining glimpses of the early days of the town and its life. Those
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who drove from Los Angeles to the Santa Monica ranch to attend the first sale of lots in July, 1875, were greeted with a magnificent view, as they crossed the " divide." Before them lay the ocean, forming a blue crescent between the jutting points of Point Dume and Point Vincent. From Point Dume swept the Santa Monica range, merging into the San Gabriel range and the San Ber- nardino mountains. Following the circle, hills and mountains led the eye around to Point Vincent on the south, forming a vast amphitheater. As we drove over the ranch we saw a lone live oak, standing on the bluff above the canon, about half way between ocean front and Seventh street. Here the one road leading to the cañon went down the grade. Near it was an old adobe, which was one of the landmarks of the time. A clump of trees stood near the springs which later supplied the town with water, and a group of great sycamores rose near the present site of Sawtelle. One of these, an immense tree, shading a large expanse, is supposed to have sheltered Father Serra on one of his journeys through the country. A line of sycamores marked the barranca which led out toward the Soldiers' Home way. Here and there were to be seen a few small ranch houses, surrounded by fig and other fruit trees. Many bands of sheep were passed, and an occasional ruin of some old adobe building.
One landmark that can never be forgotten was the "Half-way House ", a store and saloon, located about half way between the end of Washington street, Los Angeles, and Santa Monica. Here a watering trough was provided, and every traveler over the long, dusty road, stopped to water man and beast.
In the early days the canons, Santa Monica, Rustic and Manville, were the delight of the townspeople and the hotel guests. Every day saw driving and riding parties, camping and picnic parties visiting some one or other of these beautiful retreats. Arch Rock, four miles up the coast, was always an object of interest. Camping out just beyond the salt works (near the present site of Redondo) and at Portuguese Bend, was also a favorite diversion. Gun- ning in the mountains, duck shooting on Ballona laguna and boating on the laguna were popular pastimes. The boats on the laguna were known as the " Pollywog " and the "Mud Hen." Spanish games took place in the spring, when a channel was cut from the laguna to allow the overflow water to escape into the ocean, at the point now known as Playa del Rey. Ring tournaments and other Spanish games were also played for some months on Ocean avenue ; but were discontinued on the protest of a number of families who feared the influence on the best life of the then growing town.
During the days of the first wharf, one of the great events of town life was the coming and going of the coast steamers. When a Panama steamship came in and tied up at the wharf, everybody in town visited it, for the strange fruits, birds and plants which it brought were always interesting. The fishing on the wharf was always good and furnished a constant sport for men, women and children.
The first residents of Santa Monica were a cosmopolitan lot. Some were
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the drifting class always attracted by any new opening or excitement, and soon passed on. Others were drawn here by the incomparable climate, which was ideal for a home, especially in old age. Many then believed in a great business future for the new port. There were a number of young men, fresh from college, who had drifted to California for a start. Most of these were down on their luck and glad to take anything that offered, as for instance, the young Harvard graduate, who whitewashed the plaza fence-because his brains were not needed here. A Bostonian, also a college man, ran the engine on the first railroad be- tween Santa Monica and Los Angeles, while the first conductor on this road was a young Virginian. One of the first clergymen of the place was a north of Ireland man, educated in Dublin and Edinburg, who preached sermons which would have honored any pulpit. One of the first physicians had also been edu- cated in London and Edinburg and had traveled around the world. On his journey he happened to stop in Santa Monica and was so delighted with the location and climate that he stayed here for about a year. Another physician located here about the same time ; but he, too, moved on. The place was too healthy to be a promising field for a young doctor and for several years there was no resident practicing physician at all-and little need for one.
The lives of the residents of the neighboring canons were closely linked with the town, for here they came for their mail and supplies and they fur- nished the butter, eggs and vegetables for the town dwellers. There were many bee ranches hidden away among the cañons. The living of the apiarists de- pended, of course, upon the honey yield, which often failed because of dry or unfavorable seasons. Sometimes careless picnickers or hunters would be the cause of a mountain fire which, sweeping over hills and through cañons, mowed down the brush and growing plants, and sometimes destroyed bees and homes. During a terrible fire raging in Manville cañon, one old man only escaped from the flames by lowering himself into a well until the flames, traveling by leaps and jumps, had passed on. Another man, further up the cañon, was compelled to lie down in a small stream, where he found himself in company with snakes and other small creatures which had taken refuge in the water. Many of these early settlers had located on what they supposed was government land, only to find, after years perhaps of hard work in improving their homes, that they could not secure title. They were compelled to leave with only the memory of their labor to carry with them. Many odd characters were among these pioneers and many of them were brave hearted, true men, who were rich in everything but worldly goods.
The social life of the new town was, for the most part, simple and de- lightfully free from formal constraint. The few more congenial families were drawn into close relations. Almost every evening found them gathered for a time in some one home or another, for those were the days of truly hospitable home life. The first real party, of any pretensions, was given by Mrs. M. S. Baker in her new home-the first two-story rustic house in Santa Monica. It
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is safe to say that the company there gathered were as cultured as would grace any city party. During the early days of the town a literary and social club, called the " Baker's Dozen ", was formed among the young unmarried people. After a year it was enlarged to take in the married people as well and was known simply as "The Club." Among the members were doctors, lawyers, scientists, clergymen and teachers, as well as others who had no titles. After a program, usually of original papers furnished by the members, social diver- sions followed and were as much enjoyed by the men of letters as the rest. This club lasted about five years.
There were occasional concerts or lectures which were of the highest merit. It must be remembered that many cultured people visited us at various times. in search of health or rest, and often our struggling little churches were given benefits which any city audience might have gladly heard. It frequently hap- pened that some city clergyman visiting this coast because of ill health of himself or some member of his family, filled our pulpits and gave us of their best. A touching incident occurred about 1876. A teamster lost his only son, a boy of fourteen, and wished to give him a fitting funeral at the church. There was no resident pastor in the place at that time, so one of the members of the Pres- byterian church agreed to read a burial service. The fact was mentioned at the Santa Monica Hotel and came to the ears of a New York City minister who was touring the west with his wife. He at once offered to conduct the service and did so to the consolation of the father. Then he offered to preach on the Sabbath, if it would be of any assistance, and for several weeks we listened to able sermons, for which the gentleman would accept no pay.
One person who was closely associated with the early history of the town was L. T. Fisher, editor of the Santa Monica Outlook. He wrought early and well for the good of the town and gave it a bright, clean paper. But the glow- ing future he so well painted, did not make him any richer than he was when he came, so he moved on.
After the destruction of the wharf, there was very little business here, barely enough to supply very modest demands of living. Everything seemed to come to a standstill and everyone who could get away did so, except the few who were satisfied to live on climate. Yet life for those who remained was not altogether stale. With so many diversions provided by nature, a daily dip in the ocean, an afternoon drive on beach, plain or in mountain cañons, and with happy home evenings. the days passed away swiftly and we were content.
--
E. GRIFFITH
H.C. MAYER
H.B. EAKINS PRESIDENT
J. D. MACKINNON
G.W. FOSTER
TRUSTEES OF THE CITY OF OCEAN PARK.
CHAPTER X.
THE CITY OF OCEAN PARK.
T HE history of the town of Ocean Park, with Venice of America, both now less than three years old, is a modern business romance-a romance of fair dreams and marvelous fulfillments ; of great ambitions and of sad- dening failures ; of wonderful growth in wealth and population and of bitter contests of strong men with strong men. Many of the events in this brief history partake of the comedy nature : there are elements of tragedy in the story, too-of fortunes made and lost, of high hopes disappointed. There are signs of promise also, a city built upon sand-and yet planted upon a solid foundation of pros- perity and steady growth.
It scarcely seems credible, even to those who have seen the transformation going on before their eyes, that the ground now occupied by beautiful homes and handsome business blocks was, less than six years ago, a barren waste. looked upon as practically useless for building or for any other purpose. The energy, the large conceptions and the large investments which have brought about the change have rarely been equalled-even in this land of commercial wonders. A rise in values within five years from a few dollars an acre to $15,000 for a twenty-foot lot is not often recorded even in California.
Much of the earlier history of this section has already been given. A part of the present city of Ocean Park was included in the original Kinney and Ryan holdings. All of the land was originally a part of La Ballona grant and had been owned by the Machados, or their successors. The " Short Line Beach " tract had been opened up for settlement in 1902. In 1903 the Ocean Park Villa tracts were put on the market and an addition made to the Short Line Beach, giving it an ocean frontage of 4150 feet. The rapid settlement of this new territory soon created a district which must be provided with government, either by incorporation or annexation to Santa Monica. Early in the spring the talk of incorporating a new town began to take form and definite plans were made. Steps were taken during the summer to arrange for a primary school in the dis- trict, a lot being donated for the purpose. The rapidity with which the Short Line Beach lots were sold and occupied by dwellings ; the opening up of Marine street by Messrs. Vawter and Steele : the occupation of the hills east of the elec- tric line, added to the desirability of the new corporation. It was generally agreed that the lines of the new town should extend from the Santa Monica city
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limits south to the south line of the Short Line Beach and along Lake street as the east boundary. At a public meeting held October 8th, the question of incor- poration, or of joining Santa Monica, was thoroughly discussed. At this meet- ing the old firm of land owners offered to lend the new municipality money to conduct its business until its own funds became available. It was estimated that the cost of carrying on the new city for one year would be $4,100, that the assessment value of the district was $80,800 which, at a tax rate of 75 cents would yield an income of $6,100, giving a surplus at the end of the year of $2,000. It was also stated that insurance rates would be reduced one-third.
A vote of the sense of the meeting stood 52 for incorporation and I against. The objector, Mr. J. M. Roberts, then changed his vote and it was made unan- imous. A committee of five, Messrs. Henry Lavayea, W. T. Gibbon, A. Ed. Robinson, Dana Burks and A. R. Fraser, were appointed a committee to circu- late petitions for signatures. The active spirits in this movement proposed to show to the world a model city. Dana Burks in an interview with the Los Angeles Times, September 9th, 1903, said: " We propose to make Ocean Park the best lighted city in the United States. When the lighting system is installed, steamers passing miles out at sea will have ocular proof of the exact location of Ocean Park. Pure food regulations will be enforced strictly. Every milkman will have to " show us " and obtain permit before he can deliver milk in Ocean Park. A chemist will be regularly employed and regularly paid to make con- tinned inspection of food products offered for sale in the city. City officials will serve without pay, and character, ability and proved public-spiritedness will be the three requisites for election. Politics will be barred absolutely from the municipal conduct ; and with the elimination of spoils, purity of government will be easier to launch and to maintain. Attempted dishonesty will mean dismissal and dismissal will entail social ostracism."
Mr. Plez James was appointed registration clerk and a systematic census of the proposed incorporated district was taken. It was found that there were 300 houses and 750 inhabitants. Sixty-seven voters were registered. The peti- tions received the requisite number of signatures and on November 9th were presented to the board of supervisors. In the meantime a petition had been presented to the board of trustees of Santa Monica from property owners resid- ing between Marine and Rose avenues asking for annexation to the city, and also a petition favoring such annexation from citizens of Santa Monica. The city limits of Santa Monica, following the old lines of the Lucas tract, cut north- easterly through the block between Marine and Navy streets, thus leaving a por- tion of each lot in the city and a portion in the county. In accordance with these petitions, the city of Santa Monica called an election to vote on the ques- tion of annexation on December 14th. The battle over the disputed territory
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was a warm one. When the matter came up before the board of supervisors. petitions for annexation and for incorporation were presented and action was delayed until November 23rd. On November 12th a protest, signed by 27 resi- dents of the disputed territory was presented to the board of trustees, requesting that the election for annexation be not held. The city attorney decided, how- ever, that neither petition nor protest legally affected the matter so long as 20 per cent of the voters of the city called for the election, which was therefore held, and resulted in a vote of 19 against annexation in the district in question and II for, thus settling the question. Other petitions and protests against being included in the proposed incorporation, made by the residents of the Short Line tract and by the L. A .- P. railway, were placed before the board of super- visors and another adjournment was necessary in order to give all parties a hearing. On December 28th the decision was finally reached and the petition for incorporation granted, the election being set for February 12th, 1904.
A change which meant much to the proposed new city took place in Janu- ary, 1904. This was the dissolution of the Ocean Park Improvement Company by the division of their property. The company had been composed of Messrs. Kinney, Fraser, Gage and Jones : Mr. Kinney owning a half interest, Mr. Fraser a two-fifths interest of the other half, with Messrs. Jones and Gage holding the balance. By the terms of division Mr. Kinney received complete control of all unplatted lands of the company south of Navy street, including about 100 lots between Short Line Beach and Zephyr avenue; also 90 acres of land lying to the east and south of the clubhouse. This action, together with the sale of the right of way owned by the Improvement Company through South Santa Monica and of Mr. Kinney's railway interests to the L. A .- P. Railway Co., consider- ably changed the aspect of affairs for the future city. It put an end to the hope for a competing line ; but as a partial compensation the electric company began building the plank walk and stations, and otherwise improving Trolleyway, thus giving the district a new street.
As was expected but a single ticket was put in the field for the election. This named for trustees, A. Ed. Robinson, Dana Burks. Force Parker, G. M. Jones, W. T. Gibbon ; treasurer, H. Blagge ; clerk, T. G. Smith ; marshal, W. H. Slack. Dana Burks was slated for mayor; 56 votes were cast, 52 for incorpora- tion and 2 against, 2 voting for officers but not for incorporation.
Thus, at last came into existence the city of Ocean Park, which did not include the territory that had been known as " Ocean Park " since 1894, but was made up of lands settled within the past eighteen months. It was certainly a misfortune that the name which distinctly belonged to the old section in South Santa Monica should have been applied to the new city. The new town, how- ever, continued to grow rapidly. The undoubted healthfulness of the sands as
RESIDENCE OF JAMES L. BRICE, COEUR DE ALENE.
+
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a place of residence ; the easy and rapid transit to Los Angeles brought many business men and women to the place; the rapid advance in prices brought many investors, both small and large; above all the development of Venice, which became a reality during the year, brought many newcomers. But there were factors which, naturally enough, brought about dissension and misunderstand- ing. The fact that so large a portion of the territory was owned by a single man ; that Venice soon became a city within a city ; that the business interests of the new town were either centered on Pier avenue in Santa Monica, or on Windward avenue in Venice; that the postoffice, " Ocean Park " was located in South Santa Monica, while the postoffice of the town of Ocean Park was event- ually located in Venice and given the name of Venice-all of these, and other complications, led to confusion and conflicting interests.
At a meeting held on February 23rd, in the Country Club House, the use of which was donated by Mr. Kinney, the new board organized with Dana Burks as chairman and elected W. H. Anderson city attorney and W. T. Robinson, recorder. At this meeting, the Ocean Park Improvement Company presented the new city with the ocean frontage from Navy street to Horizon avenue, a distance of 4,600 feet, a gift estimated to be worth $220,000. Messrs. Jones, Fraser and Gage also presented the new corporation with their interest in the fire system already established within the district. The new city was furnished quarters for its officers and public business free of rent, and was financed with- out interest, by Mr. Kinney. On April LIth, the city election was held and the same officers were re-elected, with the exception of the marshal, H. E. Lavayea taking the place of W. H. Slack.
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