Ingersoll's century history, Santa Monica Bay cities prefaced with a brief history of the state of California, a condensed history of Los Angeles County, 1542-1908, Part 6

Author: Ingersoll, Luther A., 1851- [from old catalog]
Publication date: 1908
Publisher: Los Angeles, L. A. Ingersoll
Number of Pages: 634


USA > California > Los Angeles County > Ingersoll's century history, Santa Monica Bay cities prefaced with a brief history of the state of California, a condensed history of Los Angeles County, 1542-1908 > Part 6


Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).


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SAN JUAN BAUTISTA.


The Mission of San Juan Bautista was built on the edge of a mesa, over- looking a fertile valley, of what is now San Benito county, in San Juan Valley, about seven miles from Hollister, the county seat. It was 200x70 feet on the ground and height of walls was forty-five feet, being higher than most of the mission churches. Each of the walls were supported by four buttresses. Those on the standing ; one re- back; while the west is covered lumber, to sup- tect it from the


northeast are still mains at the entire wall on the with redwood port and to pro- elements. built with a nave The nave is sub- arches, five of walled in, pre- strengthen the is a choir loft


The church was and transepts. divided by seven which have been sumably to building. There SAN JUAN BAUTISTA. over the door entrance at the front. The church is lighted with eight quaint little windows, with glass of small panes about five inches square.


The baptismal font, carved from sandstone, stands about three feet high, and is three feet in diameter, and over it hangs an ancient picture of the baptism of Christ. The principal altar is dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and is very gaudily frescoed and painted. Statues of redwood, one life-size of St. John,


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and four smaller ones, are executed with rare talent and artistic effect. That they are of our native woods proves that the padres, Indians, or perchance a Mexican, who dwelt at the mission, was more than ordinarily gifted in carving.


In the mission gardens are pear trees, planted a century ago. The cemetery, one acre in size, is full to the limit. In many graves are said to be buried six bodies, one above the other. In all, 4,557 bodies are there interred. An old sun dial in the garden is an object of interest, carved from sandstone long be- fore the day of clocks in this country. It was originally intended for San Felipe and is therefore one second slow for San Juan Bautista.


The site of San Juan, was selected as early as 1786, but the church of San Juan Bautista was not established until June 24, 1797, the day dedicated to the patron saint, John the Baptist. Work upon the chapel and the various build- ings was begun immediately. It took hundreds of workers fifteen years to complete the task, and the chapel was dedicated by Father President Esteban Tapis, June 25, 1812. The establishment was so constructed as to form a court 200 feet square with buildings on three sides of it, and a high wall on the fourth. The material used was adobe (sun-dried brick) and ladiello, a kind of brick that was frequently used for flooring, and was made in a subterranean kiln. Adobes are made of certain mud mixed with straw or tough grass. Being thoroughly kneaded by hand or trodden by foot it is molded in the desired shape and dimensions and dried in the sun. Size, 16x30x4 inches and weight about 50 pounds. The ladellos were 8x12x2 inches, and after baking in a kiln were very hard. The old floor at this mission is more than a century ofd, and is in fair condition. The buildings were originally roofed with tile, a portion of which has given place to shingles until such a time as the tile can be restored. The walls of San Juan have been allowed to retain the delicate tint of the cinnabar that colored the mortar, and left an effect that no after-tinting can successfully imitate.


The fine music of San Juan was a feature of the mission and a reason of its success. A chime of nine bells once called to worship. Only one of these now remains. A second one was cast from two of the originals in 1874, but lacks the sweet tone of the old ones. The other six bells have been given to other churches. An interesting and ingenious attachment to the original chime of bells is an old wooden wheel, with hollow arms, about two inches square, hung on an axle. Between each two arms is hung a wooden clapper, and as the wheel revolves, these clappers successively rap on the hollow arms. This wheel was used to call the people to worship upon occasions when the Catholic church rings no bells and could be heard at a great distance.


The Padres placed a small organ (the first brought to California), on an elevation overlooking the valley, and swiftly turned the crank, and when the Indians first heard the strange sounds, they fell upon their faces in fear ; but as


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the music continued their fear left them and they began to enjoy the sweet sounds. Finally they slowly approached the hill and gradually gathered about the Padre and the wonderful singing box and listened with delight. After play- ing for an hour or more, he offered them sweets and told them that he had come to live among them, and the good man received a hearty welcome. The box is a hand organ standing about 41/2 feet high. It has tin pipes and was built by Benjamin Dodson, 22 Swan Street, London, England, in 1735. It was brought to San Juan in 1797. It became disabled, and was removed to the storehouse of the mission, where it remained for many years, when a wandering tinker stopped at the mission for something to eat and repaired it. Father Tapis, the priest of San Juan, composed a great deal of music for the California missions. Three large volumes of his work remain at this mission alone. Much of the music is on parchment, and in bold, clear characters.


The chapel of San Juan Bautista could accommodate one thousand or more worshippers, and in prosperous days the capacity was frequently taxed to its fullest. The mission possessed extensive lands and great herds. Between the years 1797 and 1835, 4,100 persons were baptized. When the crash of secularization came, the inventory showed a valuation of $147,413. In 1846, San Juan was sold for debt. There are many choice mementoes at San Juan church-ancient candlesticks of curious pattern, the old bass viol, the rude music stand, a violin past all music, the old organ, vestments, robes and sheet music, torn and faded, but dear to the devout and interesting to the historian. Today it is an impoverished parish church-but nevertheless one of the most interesting and artistic relics of the mission period.


SAN MIGUEL ARCANGEL.


The Mission of San Miguel (St. Michael, the Arcangel), " the most glorious prince of the heavenly militia," was founded on July 25, 1797, by Father Lasuen, assisted by Father Buenaventura Sitjar. The site chosen was a beautiful spot on the Salinas River called by the Indians Vahia, or Vatica, and by the Spaniards Las Pozas. Father Lasuen says that a great multitude of Indians gathered about with pleased expression, while he held the first service that founded the Mission of San Miguel. The chapel consisted of the wide-spreading branches of an old oak tree. A wooden church with mud roof, was soon erected, and it was not replaced with the present structure until 1800. In 1801, three Indians attempted to poison Fathers Martin and Carnicer. Father Pujol, who came from San Carlos to attend the sick missionaries, was also poisoned, and died, while the two whom he came to minister unto recovered. In 1806, a fire occurred, which destroyed all the implements belonging to the mission, all of the raw material, large quantities of wool, hides, cloth, and 6000 bushels of wheat ; besides doing great damage to the building. The other missions contributed


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to the relief of the burned San Miguel. The largest enrollment at this mis- sion was in 1814, when there were 1076. Total number of baptisms was 2588, and the largest number of cattle owned at one time was 10,558, in 1822. All this bespeaks the prosperity of the establishment. In 1819 Father Cabot made a safe journey into the valley of the Tulares, a thing quite unusual, and a proof of the safety of the country at that period. When the Indians of San Miguel were consulted re- garding the scheme of secularization, they expressed themselves as de- cidedly in favor of the missionary fathers and their system. Their pref- erence was of no avail, and the mis- sion was confiscated in 1836, with a valuation of $82,000. By 1845 all property had disappeared, except the buildings, valued at $5800, which SAN MIGUEL ARCANGEL. were ordered sold by Governor Pico. The sale was made July 4th, 1846, P. Rios and William Reed being the pur- chasers. Later the title was declared invalid, and the buildings restored to the church.


The mission buildings consist of a chapel and a long row of low adobe buildings. The corridor is a feature of the main edifice, the interior of which is to many most interesting, since it remains in its original condition, showing its ancient decorations and fixtures. The altar, very effective in color and design, is a valuable piece of decorative art. It is crowned with a statue of St. Michael, the patron saint. The floors are of burnt brick laid in alternating rows of oblongs and squares. The chapel is in use and there is a resident priest.


SAN FERNANDO REY DE ESPANA.


The mission of San Fernando was the second to be established within the present limits of Los Angeles county, and was founded September 8, 1797, by President Lasuen, assisted by Francisco Dumetz, at a site called by the natives Achois Comihavit, on the lands claimed by Francisco Reyes, who quarreled with the friars respecting the ownership of the land. The priests appropriated Reyes' ranch house for their dwelling. The mission was established with the usual religious ceremonies, in the presence of the troops and a great crowd of natives, and dedicated as required by instructions from Mexico to San Fernando, King of Spain. St. Ferdinand was Fernando III., who reigned in 1217-'51, and under whose rule the crowns of Castile and Leon were united. He was the founder of the Spanish Inquisition, and was canonized in 1671 by Pope Clement X.


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Francisco Javier Uria was associate priest with Dumetz. Ten children were baptized the first day, and thirteen adults had been added to the list early in Oc- tober. In 1797 there were fifty-five neophytes on the baptismal register ; in 1800 there were 310, there having been to that date 352 baptisms and seventy deaths. The number of cattle (including mules and horses) in 1800 was 526, and of sheep 600. In 1799 there were 1,200 bushels of wheat, corn and barley raised, and the total yield for the three years 1798-1800 was 4,700 bushels.


The adobe church with a tile roof, the ruins of which yet remain, was com- pleted and consecrated in December, 1806. An earthquake occurred December 21, 1812, that did some slight damage to the church building, necessitating the introduction of thirty new beams to support the wall. In 1813 a neophyte was killed by the Indian alcalde, who threw a club at him from a distance of some sixty feet with a view to hasten his work. The killing was deemed accidental, and the penalty imposed was two months' imprisonment in the presidio. During 1816-'18 a large number of neophytes deserted ; before 1818 a new chapel was completed The tion of this mis- in 1819, and then


Captain de la applied for a Rancho, which was already using for the mission troversy resulted failing to obtain it was not se- SAN FERNANDO REY DE ESPANA. mission. About this time complaint was made that the soldiers behaved badly, selling liquor to the Indians. The mission was no longer prosperous in any respect, showing a decline in live stock and agriculture. The amount of supplies furnished by this mission to the soldiers in 1822-27 was $21,203.


greatest popula- sion was 1,080, began its decline. Guerra, in 1821, grant of the Piru Father Ybarra to some extent herds. The con- in de la Guerra the rancho; but cured for the


In 1834, with others, the Mission San Fernando was secularized, with Lieu- tenant Del Valle as the commissioner in charge. Ybarre continued his ministry until the middle of the year 1835, when he temporarily retired to Mexico.


Del Valle became major-domo the next year, which position he held until the year 1837, when he was succeeded by Anastasio Carrillo. Captain José M. Villavicencio served as administrator from the middle of the year 1838. In 1840 there were still about 400 Indians in the ex-mission community.


At one period of its history there were nearly one and a half miles of build- ings connected with this mission, these including residences, workshops, schools and storehouses, all of which are now in ruins. The edifice erected especially as an abode for the padres and reputed to be the finest of its kind in Alta California,


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is, however, still standing in a fair state of preservation. It is principally inter- esting as having been the abode of the Mexican General, Andrés Pico, and was his headquarters during the war of occupation. It is two-story, nearly 300 feet in length by eighty feet in width, inside measurements; and the walls-of brick and adobe-are four feet thick. The rafters, after being cut in the mountain forests many miles away, were dragged here by Indians and oxen, each log being occasionally turned upon the way, " that all sides might be planed alike." They are as smooth as though really planed. The long corridor of this building is paved with brick, and the heavy tile roof is supported by arches and columns of masonry. Many of the windows are protected by iron bars, giving it a some- what prison-like appearance.


The church is 40x60 varas, tile roofed, board ceiling, brick floor, adobe walls, three doors, seven windows with wooden bars; sacristy, eight varas square, with one door and window.


The general statistics of the San Fernando Mission from the date of its foundation till its secularization in 1834, are as follows: Total number of bap- tisms 2,839, of which 1,415 were Indian adults, 1,367 Indian children, 57 children de razon. Total marriages, 849, of which 15 were gente de razon. Deaths, 2,028 ; 1,036 were Indian adults, 965 Indian children, 12 white adults and 15 white children. The largest population was 1,080 in 1819. The sexes were nearly equal; children from one-fourth to one-third. Largest number of cattle, 12,800 in 1819; horses, 1,320 in 1820; mules, 340 in 1812; sheep, 7,800 in 1819; goats, 600 in 1816; swine, 250 in 1814 : all kinds, 21,745 animals in 1819. Total product of wheat, 119,000 bushels, yield nineteen fold; barley, (only raised six years) 3,070 bushels, fourteen fold; maize, 27,750 bushels, eighty-three fold; beans, 3,624 bushels, fourteen fold.


It has been in part restored by the Landmarks Club.


SAN LUIS REY DE FRANCIA.


The Mission of San Luis Rey de Francia (Saint Louis IX, King of France, member of the Franciscans) was founded by Frs. Lasten, Santiago and Peyri, on June 3, 1798. The ceremony of dedication was supplemented by the baptism of fifty-four children. Within a week Father Peyri, who was left in charge, had bap- tized seventy-seven more. By July I he had 6,000 adobe bricks ready to begin the erection of the mission buildings. It was due to Father Peyri's energy, zeal and executive ability that San Luis Rey, the grandest mission building of Alta California, was erected. It was completed in 1802. During the first decade this mission made larger gains in number of neophyte population and had a lower death rate than any other establishment. Father Peyri was beloved by all. He ministered personally to the needs of his charges, and likewise superintended the agricultural pursuits. In 1818 San Luis Rey was the most prosperous mission in


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California, and this in spite of the fact that so many of its sheep died that it was necessary for the padres to go as far north as San Juan Bautista to obtain wool enough for clothing.


Father Peyri early established a hospital and taught the Indians the rudi- ments of healthful living. The highest number of neophytes enrolled at one time was 2,869, in 1826. In 1828 there was a white population of thirty-five at San


Luis Rey. Father Peyri, unlike most of the Franciscans in California, was a strong supporter of the Mexican republic and his surprise and disap- pointment at the expulsion of the Order in 1829 knew no bounds. The pathetic romance of his being spirited away at night and taken on board a vessel lying in the Bay of San Diego, is one well known to those inter- SAN LUIS REY DE FRANCIA. ested in the missions. When the neo- phytes learned that Father Peyri was gone, many of them mounted their ponies and rode in the gray dawn of the morning in a wild chase to the sea, in order to rescue their padre and bring him back to the mission. As they appeared on the shore the ship weighed anchor and slowly sailed out to sea. It is said that two venturesome boys swam after the ship and were taken on board and carried to Spain with the Father.


San Luis Rey is the only mission that progressed after secularization ; but it, too, declined after a few years, and was finally sold, on May 18, 1846, to José A. Cot and José A. Pico for $2,437 ; but their agent was dispossessed by General Fremont, and they failed to regain possession. Later it was decided that the governor had had no power to sell the mission. San Luis Rey was used as a military post by our troops during the Mexican war, and at the close of the war the government caused an estimate to be made of the cost of repairing and restoring it to its former condition. The figures were $2,000,000.


An inventory taken August 22nd, 1835, gives a fair idea of the importance and wealth of the mission. Valuation, $203,737.00 ; debts, $93,000.00 ; the church, of adobe, tile roof, clay floor, board ceilings, nine doors, eighteen windows, four adjoining rooms, value $30,000.00, was included in the total amount, as was also the six ranchos, valued at $40,437.00. These were Pala, Santa Margarita, San Jacinto, Santa Ysabel, Temecula and one other.


In the day of its glory and wealth, San Luis Rey was the pride of all the missions. It owned and pastured upon its lands an annual average of 20,000 head of cattle, and nearly as many sheep. It kept 3,000 Indians to perform the various kinds of service. In 1834 the mission had 3,500 neophytes to support. In


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the zenith of its prosperity, it raised and harvested annually more than 60,000 bushels of grain, and 250 barrels of wine were produced from the vineyards.


The church is an imposing structure, 50x160 feet, and walls sixty feet in height, by four feet in thickness. The tower at one corner contained eight bells. The ornaments and vestments of the church, in gold and silver, were very rich and beautiful. On one side of the mission building extended a corridor of two hundred and fifty arches. In the rear was a large square enclosed by buildings on each side. The front and rear sides formed corridors, with beautiful arches. In this square was a well-kept garden, with a stone fountain, the favorite retreat of the padres.


In 1892, steps were taken by Father O'Keefe, who for so many years was well known at Santa Barbara Mission, to restore San Luis Rey to a condition of usefulness, and the good father had succeeded so admirably that May 12th, 1894, the mission was rededicated and title passed to the Franciscan order of the Catholic church. A school for the training of priests of the order is now maintained there.


SANTA YNEZ, VIRGIN Y MARTYR.


The Mission Santa Ynez was founded September 17th, 1804. The work of the Mission Fathers was there begun by the baptizing of twenty-seven children. The present buildings were not commenced until after the destruc- tive earthquake of September 21st, 1812, when a corner of the old church and many of the best houses were destroyed. It was at Santa Ynez that the serious and wide-spread Indian revolt of 1824 started. After destroying many of the buildings they fled to Purisima and set fire to that establishment.


At the time of secularization, Santa Ynez was valued at $56,000. In 1844, the Mission had sufficient en- ergy, enterprise and wealth to estab- lish a seminary of learning. The Fathers, through the efforts of Bishop Garcia, received a liberal grant of land from the government for this institution, beside an endowment of $500 per annum, on condition that all Californians in search of higher SANTA YNEZ, VIRGIN Y MARTYR. education be admitted thereto. There were about 270 Indians at Santa Ynez at this time. By order of Governor Pico, in 1836, the entire estate was rented to José Covarrubias and Joaquin Carrillo for $580 per annum. The mission was finally sold to the lessees in 1846, for $7,000, but the title was declared invalid. Santa Ynez remained a religious institution until 1850, when it was abandoned, and the Fathers went to Santa Barbara.


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SAN RAFAEL.


The mission of San Rafael, the first one located north of San Francisco, was established December 18th, 1817. The Fathers and the Government of California had a double purpose in fixing the site of this establishment. It was intended to head off the Russian encroachment from the north, and also as a refuge for the neophytes of San Francisco de Asis, of which it was a branch. A scourge had be- come epidemic at Mission Dolores and many of its occupants were trans- ferred to the new site, which was supposed to be in a healthier region. This establishment was never very SAN RAFAEL. populous or influential. It reached its zenith in 1828 when a membership of 1,140 neophytes was reported. After this date it steadily declined and at the time of its secularization only about 500 Indians remained. During its existence, 1873 converts were baptized.


SAN FRANCISCO DE SOLANO.


On the 4th of July, 1823, a cross was blessed, Holy Mass was offered up, sacred songs were sung, and the Mission of San Francisco de Solano was founded. It was called New San Francisco. It was not until April 4th. 1824, that the mission church was formally dedicated, by Father Altimira, to the patron saint of the Indies. This structure was of wood, and the one of adobe, the remains of which are seen today, was erected the same year, many articles being donated by the Russians, then living in that region of country. The walls of the new church were about completed, when a terrific downpour of rain, last- SAN FRANCISCO DE SOLANO. ing several days, did great injury and changed the original plan. At the close of the year. 1824, the mission numbered 639 neophytes, many of whom had come from San Francisco, San José, and San Rafael. At the time of secularization the movable property was distributed to the Indians. After 1840, Solano had no existence as a mission community. During its entire history, 1,315 persons were there baptized. Its greatest population was in 1832, when there were 996 persons enrolled.


CHAPTER IV.


FROM MONARCHY TO REPUBLICANISM.


P ABLO VICENTE DE SOLA was governor of California when Mexico attained independence from Spain. He was of Spanish birth and was bitterly opposed to the Revolution, even going so far as to threaten death to any one who should speak in favor of it. Although the rule of Spain in Mexico was overthrown in September, 1821, it was not until March, 1822, that official dis- patches reached Sola informing him of the change. The " plan of Iguala " under which Iturbide finally overthrew the Spanish power contemplated the placing of Fernando VII on the throne of the Mexican Empire, or, if he would not accept, then some scion of the royal family of Spain. Such a termination to the revolu- tion did not affect Sola's loyalist sympathies. He called a junta to meet at Monte- rey and on the 11th of April the oath was taken to the new government.


But Sola's royalist sympathies received a rude shock a few months later when news reached California that Iturbide had seized the government for him- self and been proclaimed Emperor with the imposing title of "Augustin I, by Divine Providence and by the Congress of the Nation, first Constitutional Emperor of Mexico." In September, 1822, the flag of Spain that for half a century had waved over the palacio of the governor at Monterey, was lowered and the imperial banner of Mexico took its place. California, from the dependency of a kingdom, had become a province of an empire. Scarce half a year after the flag of the empire floated on the breeze had passed when the emperor was dethroned and forced into exile. The downfall of the empire was followed by the establishment of a republic fashioned after that of the United States. The country over which the viceroys of Spain had ruled for three hundred years was divided into nineteen states and four territories. Only tlie states were allowed representatives in the the senate ; the territories, of which Alta California was one, were to be governed by a governor appointed by the president and a diputacion, or territorial assem- bly, elected by the people. Each territory was entitled to send a diputado, or dele- gate, to the Mexican congress.


Luis Antonio Argüello succeeded Sola as governor, or gefe poltico (political chief), as the office was later styled under the republic. He was elected, Novem- ber 9, 1822, president of the provincial diputacion and by virtue of his office be- came temporary governor instead of Sola, who had been elected delegate to the imperial congress. Argüello was a native Californian, having been born at the presidio of San Francisco in 1784. He was a man of limited education, but made good use of what he had. Like Sola he had been a pronounced royalist during the revolution, but with the downfall of Spanish domination he had submitted gracefully to the inevitable.




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